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UNITED STATES OF AMEBIC A. 










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THE 

YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT, 

IN THREE PARTS: 

CONTAnsrOTO^ CATALOGUES OF GAUDEN AND FLOWER SEED, 

WITH 

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD 

FOB THB CUIiTIVATION OF 

CULINARY VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS: 

ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR Cin-TIVATING 

FRUIT TREES, THE GRAPE VINE, &c 

TO WHICH la ADDED, 

A CALENDAR TO EACH PART: 

SHOWING THE WORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN THE VARIOUS DEPART- 
MENTS EACH MONTH OF THE YEAR, 

THE WHOIiH ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNITED eTAT2S. 

TENTH EDITION, IMPROVED. 



By THOMAS BRIDGEMAN, 

Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist. 




^< 



NEW-YORK: 

FOR SALE BY THE AUTHOR, BROAD-WAY, CORNER OF EIGHTEENTH-ST. 
George C. Thorburn, 15 John-street ; Alex'r Smith, 38S Broadway, N. Y. ; AVilliam Thorburn, 
Broadway, Albany. C. F. Crosman, Rochester. Hovey & Co ; Joseph Brerk & Co., Boston. 
p. Landreth & Munns ; H. A. Dreer, Philadelphia. Gibson & Ritchie, Newark, N. Jersey. 
K. Sinclair, Jr. & Co, Baltimore. J. F. Callan, Washington City. Henry Cook, Alexan- 
dria, D. C. Frederick Wittpenn, Charleston, S. C. Turner & Hughes, Ralpigh, N. C 
Mosely & Co, Mobile. Wra. Dinn, New Orleans. N.W. Hatch cS: Co, Vicksburg. James 
M. Thorburn, St. Louis. S. C. Pnrkhurst, Cincinnati : and other Seedsmen. Also, by Sax- 
ton & Miles, 209 Broadway j E. Walker, 114 Fulton-st,N. Y. i and Booksellers in general. 

1844. 



Printed by A. Hanford, 68 Nassau-st. 



C-^l^ 



[Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred 
and Forty-four, by Thomas Bridgeman, in the Clerk's Office of the Dis- 
trict Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York.] 



(C^ ,,^ '^X^'-STEREOTYPED BY VINCENT L. DILL, 

C|-v .^ No. 128 Fulton Street, New- York. 



\v 



■^ 









PREFACE TO THE TENTH EDITION. 



The primary object in first publishing The Young Gar- 
dener's Assistant, was to enable our respectable seedsmen, 
while furnishing a catalogue of seed for the use of the 
Kitchen and Flower Garden, to afford instruction, at a trifling 
expense, to such of their customers as had not a- regular 
gardener, and thereby save themselves the blame of those 
who may not have given their seed a fair trial, for want of 
knowing how to dispose of it in the ground. 

On the appearance of the tenth edition of this work, the 
Author cannot forbear expressing his sense of obligation to 
his patrons in general, and to his fellow-seedsmen of New- 
York in particular, for the interest they have taken in circu- 
lating the book, thereby evincing their approbation of this 
humble attempt to serve both the seedsman and the gardener, 
by supplying directions for the management of a garden, 
in a manner calculated to insure success. 

Within the last fourteen years, upward of fourteen thou- 
sand copies of previous editions have been sold at the seed- 
store of Mr. G, C. Thorburn, of New- York. The Boston 
and Philadelphia seedsmen have also contributed largely to 
its circulation ; and the Author is gratified in learning that 
his labours are appreciated by eminent horticulturists, as 
will appear from the following extracts : 

" Dear Sir — You will see by the next month's ' New- 
York Farmer,' if you has^e not already seen by the Albany 
papers, that several copies of your Young Gardener's 
Assistant were given as premiums by the State Agricultural 
Society. Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself were on the 



committee for awarding premiums, and thijught your work 
was deserving encouragement, and that even in this small 
way we might be of service in bringing it before the public 

as WORTHY OF BEING GIVEN AS PREMIUMS. 

" Yours very respectfully, 

" Alexander Walsh. 

" Lansingburgh, November, 1835." 



Extract from a r^iew of this work, in the Magazine of Horticulture, 
Botany, ^c, published by Hovey 4 Co., Boston. 

" The work is written in plain language, easily to be un- 
derstood by the young beginner in gardening, who will find 
it a great help ; and its value, even to the partly experienced 
person, is by no means of an ordinary character. It is 
ADAPTED TO OUR CLIMATE, and, Unlike compilations from 
English works, the novice is not led into disappointment by 
following the rules there laid down, as he generally is when 
following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far 
as the book pretends, it is worth all others of a similar 

CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUNTRY ; 

and its cheapness should place it in the hands of all new 
beginners." 

It appears from an article in * The New- York Farmer 
and Horticultural Depository,' that the first edition of the 
work was noticed in France. The editor informs us, in page 
295 of the fourth volume, " That one of the leading articles 
in the second number of the present volume of the ' Jinnahs 
de rinstitute Royal Horticole de Fremont,' is a long notice of 
The Young Gardener's Assistant, by T. Bridgeman, of 
this city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulonge Bodin, speaks 
of the little work in very commendable terms." 

Numerous other proofs could be adduced of the kind 
reception the work has met with. Suffice it to state, that it 
has been extensively noticed, and recommended to public 



PUEFACE. 



V. 



patronage, by editors of literary periodicals, and in many of 
those publications devoted to agricultural and horticultural 
pursuits, in various parts of this and other countries ; and 
the Author may here be allowed to state, without incurring 
the charge of vanity, that the American Institute, at their 
fourteenth Annual Fair, expressed their approbation of the 
work in the most emphatic manner by awarding it a gold 

MEDAL. 

As the simplicity of cultivating the soil may lead many to 
think that a "wayfaring man, though a fool, could not easily 
err therein," it may be necessary to remind such, that the 
vegetable productions of the earth, being natives of various 
soils and climates, require pecuHar management when culti- 
vated in climates different from those in which nature first 
produced them ; and that, although many species of plants 
in common use vdth us will endure the heat of our summers, 
others can only be raised in perfection during mild and 
temperate weather, and some require artificial means to be 
used out of the ordinary seasons for gardening operations. 

In the following pages, no efforts have been spared to 
impart useful information in the several branches of horti- 
culture. The directions for the cultivation of vegetables are 
the result of twenty-four years' assiduous practice and obser- 
vation as a market gardener ; and it is presumed that the 
Author's experience in other departments of gardening has 
been sufficient to warrant him in this attempt to instruct those 
who are not acquainted with the art. The Author does not 
consider it derogatory to acknowledge, that he has frequently 
compared his ideas vrith those of other authors, and that he 
has in some instances availed himself of the benefit of their 
mstructions ; but he is not aware that in so doing he has 
adopted any ideas merely speculative ; to avoid which he has 
mvariably submitted such manuscript to the scrutiny of expe- 
rienced gardeners of his acquaintance, and the result has 
generally been such as to confirm him in his original positions. 

It must appear evident to the reader, on a review of this 
I* 



CONTENT S. 



GENERAL REMARKS ON THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN 
GARDEN. 

g Page. 

On laying out the ground, 13 

A blank-book recommended, ----- 14 
Method of using manure, [note] - - - - - 15 

Observations on improving various soils — and on sow^ing 

seed early, -' 

The drilUng system recommended, . . - - 
Remedies for the destruction of insects, {note, 19) 
On the most proper rotation of crops, 
A table showing the number of plants that may be 

raised on an acre of land, at given distances, which 

table may also be applied to other objects. 
On the durability of the germinative properties of seed, 
A table or classification of such species and varieties of 

seed as are usually cultivated in the Kitchen Garden, 
Explication of the above table, - - - - 
Adaptation of the directions in this book to all climates. 



16 
17 
18 
21 



23 
25 

26 
27 
30 



A CATALOGUE OF CULINARY VEGETABLES ; WITH PRACTICAL 
DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD. 

[The Notes are chiefly calculated to guard against error in cultivation.] 

Artichoke, - - - 

Asparagus, {note, 36) - 
Beans, (Enghsh Dwarfs) 
Beans, (Kidney Dwarfs) 
[note) - - - 

Beans, (Pole or Running) 
Beets, [note) 
Borecole or Kale, 
Brussels Sprouts, 
Broccoli, [note, 49) 



31 


Cauliflower, [note, 52) - 


51 


34 


Cabbage; [note, 55) 


54 


39 


Colewort or Collards, - 


57 




Cardoons, - 


58 


41 


CaiTot, . - - 


58 


42 


Celery, [note, 61) - 


60 


44 


Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 


63 


46 


Cress, - - - - 


64 


47 


Cucumber, [note) - 


65 


48 


Chives, or Cives, - 


66 



XU. CONTENTS. 

July. — Directions for transplanting of Cabbage, Car- 
doons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper Plants, &c., 
— Also, for the gathering and preserving of Aro- 
matic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, as they come into 
blossom — and for the cultivation of various sorts 
of vegetables described in the Calendar, - - 157 

August. — The planting season being nearly over, the 
gardener is recommended to manure, dig, and 
plough vacant ground for autumn crops — to attend 
to Artichokes, Hops, Mushrooms, Onions, Shallots, 
Turnips, &c., as directed, 158 

September. — The business of this month consists in 
finishing the sowing of seed of the season — in ma- 
turing various kinds of vegetables, by hoeing and 
earthing — and in the gathering of Herbs, Hops, 
&c., as they arrive at maturity, - - - - 159 

October. — Directions for preserving various plants and 
vegetables — by planting Parsley, Lettuce, Cab- 
bage, Cauliflovv^er, &c., in frames — by providing pits 
to contain Beets, Potatoes, &c., — and by laying 
away Winter Squashes, Pumpkins, and other vege- 
tables designated, for use through the winter, - 161 

November. — The best methods described, of stowing 
away for the winter ; Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage, Cardoons, Carrots, Celery, Horse-radish, 
Leeks, Turnips, and such other vegetables as need 
protection — Also, directions for the winter dressing 
of the beds of Artichoke, Asparagus, Rhubarb, 
and Sea-Kale, ------- 162 

December. — Hints on various subjects connected with 
the preservation of plants, vegetables, and imple- 
ments — and for collecting suitable manures, com- 
post, &c., for use next spring — Also, suggestions 
for ploughing or trenching particular kinds of soil, 
in order that it may be benefited by winter frost, 163 



GENERAL REMARKS 



MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Before commencing the Catalogue, it may be necessary 
to direct the reader's attention to some important matters, 
essential to the good management of a Kitchen Garden. 

The mode of laying out the giound is a matter of taste, 
and may be left to the gardener himself, the form being a 
thing of trifling importance in the production of useful vege- 
tables; and it matters not whether the ground be laid out in 
beds of four or ten feet wide, provided it be well worked, 
and the garden kept neat and free from weeds. 

Those who have not a garden already formed, should, 
however, fix on a level spot where the soil is deep ; but as 
we have not always a choice, I would recommend the reader 
to that which is within his reach, and ought to be the object 
of every man, namely, to make the most of what he has. 

To this end, he may form a border round the whole gar- 
den, from five to ten feet wide, according to the size of the 
piece of land ; next to this border, a walk may be made from 
three to six feetvdde; the centre part of the garden maybe 
divided into squares, on the sides of which a border may be 
laid out three or four feet wide, in which the various kinds 
of herbs may be raised, and also Gooseberries, Currants, 
Raspberries, Strawberries, &c. The centre beds may be 
planted with all the various kinds of vegetables. The outside 
Dorders, facing the east, south, and west, vsdll be useful for 
raising the eariiest fruits and vegetables ; and the north bor- 
der, being shady and cool, will serve for raising and pricking 



16 GENERAL REMARKS. 

that I am an advocate for early sowing and planting, even at 
the risk of losing a little seed, provided the ground be fit to 
receive it. A light, sandy soil will be benefited if worked 
when moist, as such treatment will have a tendency to make 
it more compact ; on the contrary, if a clayey soil be worked 
when too wet, it kneads like dough, and never fails to bind 
when drought follows ; and this not only prevents the seed 
from rising, but injures the plants materially in their subse- 
quent growth, by its becoming impervious to moderate rains, 
dews, air, and the influence of the sun, all of which are 
necessary to the promotion of vegetation. 

Some gardeners, as well as some vmters, recommend 
certain fixed days for sovping and planting particular kinds 
of seed; I think it necessary to guard my readers against being 
misled. The failure of crops may be often attributed to the 
observance of certain days for sowing. If some kinds of seed 
be sown when the ground is wet and cold, they will become 
chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they be sown 
in very dry weather, the germinative parts of the seed may 
become injured by the burning rays of the sun, or the young 
plants may get devoured by insects as fast as they come up. 
To obviate these difficulties, I have generally allowed a week 
or ten days for sowing the seed, intending the medium as the 
proper time for the vicinity of New- York. With this clearly 
borne in mind, the reader who observes the difference in the 
degrees of heat and cold in the different parts of the country, 
vidll know how to apply these instructions accordingly. 

Much depends on the manures used on particular kinds 
of soil. The great art of improving sandy and clayey soils, 
consists in giving the former such dressings of clay, cow 
dung, and other kinds of manure, as will have a tendency to 
bind and make them more compact, and consequently, more 
retentive of moisture ; and to the latter, coats of horse dung, 
ashes, sand, and such other composts as may tend to sepa- 
rate the particles and open the pores of the clay, so as to 
cause it to approach as nearly as possible to a loam. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 17 

The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, the less 
retentive will it be of moisture ; the more to a clayey, the 
longer wiU it retain it ; and the finer the particles of which 
the clay is composed, the more tenacious will it be of water, 
and, consequently, the longer in drying, and the harder when 
dry ; but earth of a consistence that will hold water the long- 
est, without becoming hard xvhen dry, is, of aU others, the best 
adapted for raising the generality of plants in the greatest 
perfection. This last described soil is called loam, and is a 
medium earth, between the extremes of clay and sand. 

I have, in most cases, recommended drills to be made at 
certain depths for the different kinds of seed ; and when I 
have stated that the drills should be two inches deep, it is 
intended that the seed should be covered only one inch, 
which it will be when planted in these drills, and covered ; 
and so in proportion for any other depth required. This 
may serve as a guide to the young gardener, but circum- 
stances alter cases ; if, for instance, some particular crops 
should fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be 
far advanced, to risk a farther planting of seed, even if the 
weather be hot and the ground dry. If this be planted a 
little deeper, it may escape the violent heat of the sun, and 
in the event of a shower, the ground would become suffi- 
ciently moist to bring it up ; whereas it sometimes happens 
that seed sovm after a shower does not vegetate until after the 
season is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection. 

The work of drilling by those who have no machine, may 
be performed in various ways ; in some cases a plough is 
used, in others a small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the e^ge 
of a board or line ; it is of little consequence which way the 
work is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener 
to make his ovm choice of tools, I would suggest that he be 
provided vnth two or three drilling machines ; these, every 
handy man can make for himself; they should be in the 
form of a garden rake, with a stout, heavy back, and five 
teeth, about two inches broad, and tapered so as to enter the 

2* 



18 GENERAL REMAKKS. 

ground, and leave drills two inches deep. If one be made 
with the teeth eight inches apart, another twelve, and another 
fourteen, they will be useful in making drills for the various 
kinds of seed ; and drills thus made serve instead of strain- 
ing a line when transplanting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leek plants, 
&c. ; the line being stretched at one edge of the bed, and 
the drilling machine drawn straight by the line, makes five 
drills at once. If they are straight, they may be kept so, by 
keeping one drill open for the outside tooth to work in, until 
the ground be all drilled. 

Gardeners practice different methods of covering up seed; 
some do it with a hoe, others wath a rake or harrow ; some 
draw a portion of the earth to the side of the bed, and after 
sowing the seed, return it regularly over the bed ; in some 
particular cases a sieve is used, in others a roller. Rolling 
or treading in seed is necessary in dry seasons, but it should 
never be done when the ground is wet. 

There is nothing that protects young crops of Turnips, 
Cabbage, and other small plants, from the depredations of the 
fly, so well as roUing ; for when the surface is rendered com- 
pletely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbour 
they would otherwise have under the clods and small lumps 
of earth. This method will be found more effectual than 
soaking the seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants 
with any composition whatever ; but as the roller must only 
be used previous to or at the time of sowing the seed, and 
not even then if the ground be wet, it is necessary that the 
gardener should have a hogshead always at hand in dry 
weather, containing infusions made of waste tobacco, lime, 
soot, cowdung, elder, burdock leaves, &c. A portion of these 
ingredients, or any other preparation that is pernicious or 
poisonous to insects, without injuring the plants, thrown into 
a hogshead kept filled up with water, if used moderately over 
beds of young plants in dry weather, would, in almost every 
^ase, insure a successful crop. 

Saltpetre is pernicious to many species of insects ; it is 



GENERAL REMARKS. 19 

also an excellent manure, and may be used to great advan- 
tage when dissolved in the proportion of one pound to four 
gallons of water. This liquid, applied to plants through the 
rose of a watering-pot, will preserve health and vigour. 
Soapsuds are equally beneficial, if used occasionally in the 
same manner — say once a week. These remedies, applied 
alternately, have been known to preserve Melon and Cucum- 
ber vines from the ravages of the yellow fly, bugs, blight, 
&c., and to keep the plants in a thriving condition. 

As Hquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on a large 
' piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects are numerous, 
to sow tobacco dust, mixed with road dust, soot, ashes, lime, 
or the dust of charcoal, in the proportion of half a bushel per 
acre, every morning, until the plants are free or secure from 
their attacks. Turnip seed vnll sometimes sprout in forty- 
eight hours. Cabbage seed ought to come up within a week 
after it is sown ; but it sometimes happens that the whole is 
destroyed before a plant is seen above ground ; the seeds- 
man, in this case, is often blamed, but without cause.* 

A correspondent has communicated the result of an exper- 
iment he has tried for preventing the attacks of flies or fleas 
on Turnips. He says, " Steep your seed in a pint of warm 
water for two hours, in which is infused one ounce of salt- 
petre ; then dry the seed, and add currier's oil suflicient to 
wet the whole ; after which mix it with plaster of Paris, so 
as to separate and render it fit for sowing." Fish oil is 



* As the truth of the old adage, That one ounce of prevention is of more 
vahie than a pound of cure, is very generally admitted, I would recom- 
mend the following metiiod of preparing a bed for the purpose of raising 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, and such other plants as are subject to the 
attaclfs of insects : After digging or ploughing the ground in the usual 
way, collect any combustibles that are attainable, as dried weeds, sedge, 
turf, brushwood, leaves, stubble, corn-stalks, sawdust, or even litter from 
the dung-heap, which should be placed in heaps on the seed-beds and 
burned to ashes ; theu rake the ground over and sow the seed, which will 
not be attacked by insects while the eilects of the fire remain. In the 
event of extremely dry weather, water the beds every evening until tho 
plants are in full leaf. This is an infiilHMe remedy. 



20 GENERAL REMARKS. 

known to be destructive to ants and vaiious other small 
insects, but it is difficult to apply to plants. 

In tbe summer season, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, 
&c., are particularly subject to the ravages of grubs and 
caterpillars ; to prevent this wholly, is perhaps impossible, 
but it is not difficult to check these troublesome visitors ; this 
may be done by searching for them on their first appearance, 
and destroying them. Early in the morning, grubs may be 
collected from the earth, within two or three inches of such 
plants as they may have attacked the night previous. 

The approach of caterpillars is discoverable on the leaves 
of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin white skin 
by the minute insects which emerge from the eggs placed on 
them ; these leaves being gathered and thrown into the fire, 
a whole host of enemies may be destroyed at once ; whereas, 
if they are suffered to remain, they will increase so rapidly, 
that in a few days the plantation, however extensive, may 
become infested ; and, when once these arrive at the butterfly 
or moth stage of existence, they become capable of perpetu- 
ating their destructive race to an almost unlimited extent. 
The same remarks apply to all other insects in a torpid state. 

Worms, maggots, snails, or slugs, may be driven away by 
sovdng salt or Ume in the spring, in the proportion of two to 
three bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally 
with salt and water, using about two pounds of salt to four 
gallons of water ; or the slug kind rtiay be easily entrapped 
on small beds of plants, by strevdng slices of turnip on them 
late in the evening ; the slug or snail will readily crowd on 
them, and may be gathered up early in the morning (before 
sunrise) and destroyed. 

Moles may be annoyed and driven away, by obstructing 
the passage in their burrows vnth sticks smeared with tar. 
First insert a clean stick from the surface through the bur- 
rows ; then dip others in tar, and pass them through into the 
floor of the bmTows, being careful not to rub off" the tar in 
the operation. Tar is also an effectual remedy against smut 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



21 



in wheat : after being heated in a kettle until it becomes 
thin, it may be stirred in among the grain until it becomes 
saturated. The wheat should afterward be mixed with a 
sufficient quantity of wood ashes to dry and render it fit for 

sowing. 

To prevent depredations from crows, steep com in strong 
saltpetre brine, sow it over the land, or steep your seed com; 
and if the crows once get a taste, they vnll forsake the field. 

Perhaps the next important point to be attended to is the 
most proper rotation of crops. Virgil, who was a philoso- 
pher as well as a poet, very justly observes, that " the true 

REPOSE OF THE EARTH IS A CHANGE OF ITS PRODUCTIONS." 

It is a curious fact, that a plant may be killed by the 
poison which it has itself secreted, as a viper may be de- 
stroyed by its ovm venom. Hence it has been very gene- 
rally noticed, that the soil in which some particular vege- 
tables have grovm, and into which they have discharged the 
excretions of their roots, is rendered noxious to the prosperity 
of plants of the same or alhed species, though it be well 
adapted to the growth and support of other distinct species 
of vegetables. 

It is proved by experience, that fall Spinach is an excellent 
preparative for Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, and all other 
tap, as well as tuberous rooted vegetables. 

Celery or Potatoes constitute a smtable preparative for 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, and all other plants of the Brassica 
ti-ibe ; as also Artichokes, Asparagus, Lettuce, and Onions, 
provided such ground be well situated, which is a circum- 
stance always to be duly considered in laying out a garden. 
Lands that have long lain in pasture are, for the fii'st three 
or four years after being tiUed, superior for Cabbage, Tur- 
nips, Potatoes, &c., and afterward for culinary vegetables in 

general. 

The following mles are subjoined for farther government : 
Fibrous rooted plants may be alternated with tap or 

tuberous rooted, and vice versa. 



22 GENERAL REMARKS. 

Plants which produce luxuriant tops, so as to shade the 
land, to be succeeded by such as yield small tops, or narrow 
leaves. 

Plants which during their growth require the operation of 
Btining the earth, to precede such as do not admit of such 
culture. 

Ground which has been occupied by Artichokes, Aspara- 
gus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, or such other crops as remain long 
on a given spot, should be subjected to a regular rotation of 
crops, for at least as long a period as it remained under such 
permanent crops. Hence, in all gardens judiciously man- 
aged, the Strawberry bed is changed every three or four 
years, till it has gone the circuit of all the compartments ; 
and Asparagus beds, &c., should be renewed on the same 
principle, as often as they fail to produce luxuriantly. In- 
deed, no two crops should be allowed to ripen their seed in 
succession in the same soil, if it can be avoided ; because, if 
it be not exhausted by such crops, weeds will accumulate 
more than on beds frequently cultivated. 

Manure should be applied to the most profitable and ex- 
hausting crops ; and the succession of crops should be so 
arranged, that the ground may be occupied by plants either 
valuable in themselves, or which may contribute to the in- 
creased value of those which are to follow ; and the value of 
the labour required to mature vegetables, and prepare them 
for market, should be always taken into consideration. 

Many kinds of seed, such as Asparagus, Capsicum, Celery, 
Fetticus, Leek, Lettuce, Onion, Parsnip, Parsley, Rhubarb, 
Salsify, Spinach, &c., will not vegetate freely in dry weather, 
unless the ground be watered or rolled ; where there is no 
roller on the premises, the following contrivance may answer 
for small beds as a substitute : after the seed is sown, and the 
ground well raked, take a board the whole length of the bed, 
lay it flat on the ground, begin at one edge of the bed, and walk 
tlie whole length of it ; this will press the soil on the seed, 
then shift the board till you have gone over the whole bed. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



23 



In the absence of boards, tread in the seed with your feet, 
or stiike on the bed with the back of your spade or shovel ; 
but this should not be done when the ground is wet. 

If it be necessary at any time to sow seed in extremely dry 
weather, it is recommended to soak the seed in water, and 
dry it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive water- 
ing, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily. 

If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the 
ground is dry, the transplanting should always be done as 
soon as the earth is turned over, and the roots of the plants, 
before they are set out, should be steeped in mud made 
of rich compost. 

I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sovm in 
driUs drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference 
to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can be more easily 
destroyed by means of a small hoe, which, if properly used, 
greatly promotes the growth of young plants. 



The foUovdng table may be useful to the gardener, in 
showing the number of plants or trees that may be raised on 
an acre of ground, when planted at any of the under-men- 
tioned distances : 



Distance apart. No. of Plants. 

1 foot 43,560 

li feet 19,360 

2 feet 10,890 

2h feet 6,969 

3 feet 4,840 

4 feet 2,722 

5 feet 1,742 

6 feet 1,210 



Distance apart. No. of Plants. 

9 feet 537 

12 feet 362 

15 feet 193 

18 feet 134 

21 feet 98 

24 feet 75 

27 feet 59 

30 feet 48 



The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are 
not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden, as it shows 
at one view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares 



24 GENERAL REMARKS. 

of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, shows 
that, if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty 
feet apart, there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet square, 
or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from the 
same quantity of land. An allowance of about one-eighth 
must, however, be made from the above calculation for walks 
and paths. 

The table may also serve to show the gardener how to 
dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allotted 
for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three 
hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve 
feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure 
to cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the same 
distance apart. It therefore follows, that if one hundred 
loads be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into 
three heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every 
load must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion 
to the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose 
to drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may 
make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundred 
and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land ; in which case, 
by dividing each load into four heaps, he wall require only 
forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the 
quantity still more, by allowing greater distances from heap 
to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions, so 
as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of manure 
he may allot to any given quantity of ground. 



As it may not be generally known that some kinds of 
seed are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner 
than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule for 
the gardener's government, provided the seed is carefully 
preserved, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or damp- 
ness : 



GENERAL REMARKS. 25 

Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light, scale-like seeds, cannot 
be safely trusted after they are a year old. 

Beans and Peas of different species. Capsicum, Carrot, 
Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonera, 
and small Herb seed in general, may be kept two years. 

Artichoke, Asparagus, Egg-plant, Endive, Fetticus, Let- 
tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret, and Spinach seed, may ivith 
care be preserved three years. 

Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish, and 
Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to. 

Beet, Cucumber, Gourd, Melon, Pumpkin, and Squash, 
also, Burnet, Chervil, and Sorrel seed, have been kno^vn to 
grow freely when five and even seven years old ; but it is not 
prudent to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness of 
which we are not certain. 

In order to put such on their guard as may attempt to raise 
seed either for their own use or for the market, I would 
observe that great care is necessary, as' it is an indubitable 
fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near each other, 
degeneracy will be the consequence ; it is, therefore, difficult 
for any one man to raise all sorts of seed, good and true to 
their kind, in any one garden. 

If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for 
seed, as the annexed fact will show. I once planted for seed 
some beautiful orange-coloured roots of Carrots, but as they 
had been previously grown with some of a lemon-colour, 
they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed ; and as 
this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like 
cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal 
frame, so it is in the vegetable system — disorders very fre- 
quently lay dormant from one generation to another, and at 
length break out with all their vigour; I would therefore 
advise seed growers not to attempt to " bring a clean thing 
out of an unclean," but if they find a mixture of varieties 
among their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they will in- 
fallibly have spurious seed. 

3 



XO GENERAL REMARKS. 

TABLE AND EXPLICATION. 

*^* In order to aid the novice in gardening, the following 
brief classification of such species and varieties as comprise 
our catalogue of vegetable seed is submitted, and it is pre- 
sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this table, 
will not be altogether uninteresting to the experienced gar- 
dener and seedsman. 





CATALOGUE. 


>> 

a 


X 

s 


c 


ti 

■si 

3 = 

o 






c , 


Most I 

essential 1 

Nutriment. 1 






£ 
S 

'3 
S 


























. .0. . 








. .0 . 




. .0. . 




. .0. . 




Beans (Ent'lish Dwarfs) 


. .0.. 








. .0. . 




. .0. . 




..0.. 




















. .0. . 






















. .0. . 






Beet 




. .0 














. .0. . 








. .0. . 










..0.. 




..0. . 








. .0. . 










..0. . 




. .0.. 








..0. . 










. .0. . 




..0.. 








..0. . 










. .0. . 




. .0. . 








..0. . 














. .0. . 




Celery 




..0.. 








. .0- . 


..0.. 




. .0. . 






. .0. . 
















. .0. . 








..0.. 


































..0.. 






Eg? Plant 






. 0. . 




. . 




..0.. 


..0.. 










..0.. 










..0.. 




. .0.. 




















..0.. 


















. .0. . 


..0.. 




. .0. . 








..0.. 










..0.. 

























. .0. . 






















. .0. . 






Okra 
































. .0. . 















..0. . 
























. .0.. 










. .0. . 

















n 




..0.. 













Peas 


..0.. 








.0 . 








0, 










..0.. 
















Hudish 




..0.. 




. .0. . 

















. .0. . 






. .0. . 

















. .0. . 



























. .0.. 




0. 


















. .0. . 





















..0. . 
























. .0. . 






.0. . 


. 0. 




n 




















^^^^.^ 



In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to 
premise, that in the classification, as regards the germinating 
powers of different kinds of seed, it is conceded that if some 
of those denominated medium were put upon an equal foot- 
ing with some of the class denominated quick-gi'owing, tliey 
would vegetate in about the same time. For instance, Peas 



GENERAL REMARKS. 27 

would sprout as quick as Kidney Beans, with the same tem- 
perature ; but Peas, being hardy, are generally planted a 
month earlier in the season. If Beans were planted at the 
same time, they would rot for want of genial heat necessary 
to their germination. 

Many of the species denominated medium and tardy, re- 
quire considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when not 
attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total failure, are 
the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however, generally 
obviate difficulties of this nature, by sowing such seed at the 
most favourable seasons. Those who delay sowing Carrot, 
Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip, Spinach, &c., until 
dry summer weather, render themselves liable to disappoint- 
ment and loss thereby. * 

As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed 
to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such 
of their eiTor, offer a few observations under each head of 
the table. 

The first and second classes, denominated hardy and half- 
hardy, are subject to risk in unpropitious seasons, from un- 
fitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by cold 
rains and variable weather. If sprouted seed survive a 
severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it is 

* As the matter relative to the first seven columns was in type previous 
to the introduction of the last two columns, I would here ofler a few ob- 
servations illustrative of their object. People in general, from not con- 
sidering that the products of our gardens, being natives of the various cli- 
mates i)f the earth, have each its peculiar aliment, expect to raise whatever 
tliey may wish for at almost any season. By referring to the classification 
in the eighth and ninth columns, they will be at once convinced of their 
error, as it will appear evident that such vegetables as require heat will 
grow best in summer, while those whose most essential nutriment is 
moisture, must be raised either in spring or autumn. It may be necessary 
to remind the gardener that, from the American spring being short, little 
can be done before the approach of warm weather ; it should therefore be 
our object to improve the autumn months in the cultivation of Such vege- 
tables as can be brought to maturity before the setting in of winter. Having 
under each head of the ("Calendar recommended tlip most appropriate seasons 
for the different articles, it is unnecessary to dilate farther here, except to 
invoke my readers to adhere strictly thereto. 



28 GENERAL REMARKS?. 

frequently subjected early in the season. Some species of 
plants that, in an advanced stage of growth, will stand a hard 
winter, are often cut off by very slight frost while germinating, 
especially if exposed to the heat of the sun after a frosty 
night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, 
Turnip, and many other growing plants, which survive the 
ordinary winters of England, are here classed as halfhardy, 
for the reasons above stated. 

The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish 
from excess of rain. Lima Beans, for instance, have often 
to be replanted three or four times in the month of May, 
before any vnS[ stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg-plants, 
Tomato plants, &c., are also often cut off by variableness of 
the weather ; indeed, it is unreasonable to expect natives of 
tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse 
to that in which nature first produced them, unless protected 
or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under 
the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender things 
in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile them- 
selves to loss in the event of unfavourable weather, instead 
of throwing blame on the seedsman. 

The fourth class, embracing such species and varieties as, 
from their nature, are apt to vegetate quickly, are very liable 
to be devoured by insects before they make any show on the 
surface. Turnip seed, for instance, will sprout within forty- 
eight hours after being sown ; and under favourable circum- 
stances, most of the species of this class will come up within 
a week ; but if insects attack the seed beds in dry v/eather, 
a total loss of crops vdll be the consequence. Every expe- 
rienced farmer is convinced of this fact, by having frequently 
to sow his Turnip ground three or four times before he can 
get any to stand. 

Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to 
grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardener 
should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in 



GENERAL REStARKS. 29 

general, and especially to those in which plants are raised 
for the purpose of being transplanted. 

Those species and varieties embraced in the ffth and sixth 
cobiinns, often take from two to three or four weeks to vege- 
tate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded by 
cold, others by excess of dry weather ; and at such times, 
seed may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the 
event of drought after neavy rains, seed and young plants 
often perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other 
untoward circumstances, which can neither be controlled or 
accounted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gar- 
dener. It must, however, be conceded, that failures often 
occur, through seed being deposited too deep in the ground, 
or left too near the surface ; sometimes, for want of suffi- 
ciency of seed in a given spot, solitary plants vidll perish, 
they not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the 
earth, and very frequently injudicious management in ma- 
nuring and preparing the soil will cause defeat. 

I have been induced to expatiate, and to designate, in the 
seventh range of the preceding tahle^ such plants as are gene- 
rally cultivated first in seed beds, and afterward transplanted 
for the pui-pose of being accommodated with space to mature 
in, with a view to answer at once the thousand and one 
questions asked by inexperienced cultivators, at my counter. 

Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of 
raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed, when 
an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For example, 
an ounce of Celery seed wiU produce ten thousand plants. 
An ounce of Cabbage seed will produce from three to four 
thousand, sufficient, when transplanted, to cover nearly half 
an acre of and, which land, if sown with Spinach, for 
instance, would require from four to six pounds of seed. 

To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would observe, 
in conclusion, that many other vegetables would admit of 
being transplanted besides those designated in our table ; 
but as there is considerable risk and trouble inseparable from 

3*^ 



30 GENERAL REMARKS. 

the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless there are para- 
mount advantages to be gained, the reverse of which would 
be the case, under ordinary circumstances, with the gene- 
rality of those plants not thus designated. 

Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall for 
the future fullow the example of the truly eccentric Aber- 
nethy, and refer all enquirers for information to my books, 
which contain an answer to every important question that 
has been put to me on the subject of gardening since I 
became an author. 

T. BRIDGEMAN. 



*^* Previous to the commencement of our Catalogue, it 
may be necessary to remind the reader, that the directions 
which follow are founded on the results of practical experi- 
ence in the vicinity of New- York City, where the soil is 
generally susceptible of gardening operations toward the 
end of March. These directions may, however, be applied 
to all other parts of the United States, by a minute observe 
ance of the difference in temperature. 

In the extreme northern parts of the State of New- York, 
as well as in all other places similarly situated, the directions 
for the beginning of April will apply to the latter end of 
the same month, with very few exceptions. 

In our Southern States, the directions for APRIL, 
which may be considered as the first gardening month in the 
Eastern, Western, and Middle States, will apply to Janu- 
ary, February, or to whatever season gardening operations 
may commence in the respective States. 

In the varied climates of each particular State, if the same 
rule of application be pursued in accordance with the Calen- 
dar, success is certain. 



CATALOGUE, 

&c., &c- 



ARTICHOKE. 
Artichaut. Cynara. 

VARIETIES. 
Cynara Scolymus, or French. I Cynara Hortensis, or Globe. 

The garden Artichoke is a native of the South of Europe, 
and much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It 
is a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its 
large squamose heads, in full growth, from June or July, 
until October or November. The Globe Artichoke, which 
produces large globular heads, is best for general culture, 
the heads being considerably larger, and the eatable parts 
more thick and plump. 

Both sorts may be raised from seed,* or young suckers 
taken from old plants in the spring. A plantation of Arti- 
chokes will produce good heads six or seven years, and 
sometimes longer ; but it must be obsen'ed, that if a supply 
of this delicious vegetable be required throughout the season, 
a small plantation should be made from suckers every spring, 
for a successive crop, as the young plants will continue to 
produce their heads in perfection, after the crops of the old 
standing ones are over. 

The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes 
from seed, is to sow the seed in the latter end of March, or 
at any time in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may 
be planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches 
apart. The ground should be light and moist, not such as is 
apt to become bound up by heat, or that, in consequence of 

• One ounc« of seed will produce about six hundred plants. 



32 ARTICHOKE. 

containing too large a proportion of sand, is liable to become 
violently hot in summer, for this is extremely injurious to 
these plants. After the plants are up, they should be kept 
free from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them. 

The business of transplanting may be done in cloudy or 
wet weather, at any time after the plants are from nine to 
twelve inches high. Having fixed upon a proper soil and 
situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and trench 
the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incor- 
porating the manure therevsdth ; this being done, take up 
the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and 
dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble, in rows five 
feet asunder, and two feet from plant to plant, leaving part 
of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants 
free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little 
water to settle the roots. 

The winter dressing of Artichokes is an important opera- 
tion ; on it depends much of their futui-e success. This 
should not be given them as long as the season continues 
mild, that they may have all possible advantage of growth, 
and be gradually inured to the increasing cold weather ; but 
it should not be defeiTed too late, lest by the sudden setting 
in of hard frost, to which we are subject in the Northern 
States, the work be neglected, and the plants consequently 
exposed to devastation and loss. 

In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the 
ground, leaving the small ones which rise from the hearts 
of the plants ; after this, line and mark out a trench in the 
middle, between each row, from fourteen to sixteen inches 
wide, presuming that the rows are five feet apart, as directed. 
Then dig the surface of the beds lightly from trench to 
trench, burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather the 
earth around the crowns of the plants to the height of about 
six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising leaves, 
vdthout burying them entirely under it ; this done, dig the 
trenches one spade deep, and distribute the earth equally 



ARTICHOKE. 33 

between and on each side of the plants, so as to level the 
ridges, giving them, at the same time, a neat rounding form; 
finish by casting up v^ith a shovel the loose earth out of the 
bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in order that 
the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c., may immediately 
run off; on which account the trenches ought to have a gen- 
tle declivity, as the lodgment of water about the roots in 
winter is the greatest evil and danger to which they are expos- 
ed, even gt'eater than the most seveie frosts to which we are 
subject. 

The beds are to remain so, until there is an appearance 
of hard frost, when they should be covered with light dung, 
litter, leaves of trees, or the like, the better to preserve the 
crovnis and roots from its rigour. In this manner, the roots 
will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the 
very severe frosts are over, the beds must be uncovered, and 
when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above 
ground, or rather when they are one or two inches up, then, 
and not till then, proceed to level down the beds, throvdng 
the earth into the alleys or trenches, and round them in a 
neat manner ; then dig in the short manure, and loosen all 
the earth around the plants. At the same time, examine the 
number of shoots arising on each stool, and select three of 
the strongest and healthiest looking on every stool, which are 
to remain ; all above that number are to be slipped off close 
to the roots wdth the hand, unless you want some to make 
new plantations wdth, in which case an extra number for that 
purpose are to remain on the parent plants, until they are 
about eight or ten inches high from their roots, or junction 
with the old plants, when they are to be slipped off, and 
planted in a bed prepared in the same manner as directed 
for the young plants, taking care, at the same time, to close 
the earth about the crov\Tis of the roots, and draw it up a 
little to the remaining suckers. 

Observe, the spring dressing is to be given when the plants 
are in the above-described state, whether that happens in 



34 ASPARAGUS. 

February, March, or April, occasioned by the difference of 
climate, in the respective States, or by the earliness or late- 
ness of the spring. 

The gardeners near London generally take off the side 
suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size 
of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale in the mar- 
kets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger 
and more handsome. The maturity of a full-grown Arti- 
choke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it should 
always be cut off before the flower appears in the centre ; 
the stem should be cut close to the ground at the same 
time. 

Artichokes are esteemed a luxury by epicures. To have 
them in perfection, they should be thrown into cold water 
as soon as gathered, and after having been soaked and well 
washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot, with 
a little salt, and kept boiling until tender, which generally 
requires, for full-grown Artichokes, from an hom' and a half 
to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them ; then 
serve them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and such 
other condiment as may best suit the palate. 



ASPARAGUS. 
AsPERGE. ^sjjaragiis officinalis. 

VARIETIES. 

Gravesend. ] Large Battersea. 

Large White Reading. [ Large Green, or Giaiit. 

This plant is a native of cold climates, and is found grow- 
ing wild in Russia and Poland ,^ where it is eaten by the 
cattle the same as grass. It will endure the severity of our 
winters, and produce its buds, when the weather gets mild ; 
but as garden products are generally scarce after a hard 



ASPARAGUS. y5 

wnter, the gardener who studies his interest will make the 
most of the spring season, and raise all he can before the 
market becomes glutted; to this end, he is recommended to 
prepare for forcing this vegetable, as soon as the coldest of 
the winter is past. (See arlicle on Forcing Vegetables.) 

Asparagus may be raised by sowing the seed in the fall 
as soon as ripe, or in March and the early part of April. 
One ounce of seed will produce about a thousand plants. It 
requires some of the best ground in the garden. The seed 
may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches asunder, and 
covered about an inch vrith light earth. When the plants 
are up, they will need a careful hoeing, and if well culti- 
vated, and kept free from weeds, they will be large enough 
to transplant when they are a year old. Some keep them in 
the nurseiy bed until they are two years old. 

A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed 
every year, will produce good buds for twenty years or more. 

New plantations of Asparagus may be made in autumn, 
or before the buds get far advanced in spring, say in Febru- 
ary, March, or April, according to situation and circum- 
stances. The ground for the bed must not be wet, nor too 
strong or stubborn, but such as is moderately light and plia- 
ble, so that it vrill readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, 
and in a situation that enjoys the full rays of the sun. It 
should have a large supply of well rotted dung, three or four 
inches thick, and then be regularly trenched two spades 
deep, and the dung buried equally in each trench twelve or 
fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is 
done, lay two or three inches of thoroughly rotted manui-e 
over the whole surface, and dig the ground over again eight 
or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, and incorpo- 
rating it weU with the earth. 

In family gardens, it is customary to divide the ground 
thus prepared into beds, allowing four feet for every four 
rows of plants, with alleys two feet and a half wide fc atween 
each bed. Strain your line along the bed six inches from 



36 ASPARAGUS. 

the edge ; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench or drill 
close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side 
next the line nearly upright ; when one trench is opened, 
plant that before you open another, placing the plants upright 
ten or twelve inches distant in the row, and let every row 
be twelve inches apart. 

The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the 
trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that 
the crown of the plants may also stand upright, and two or 
three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading their 
roots somewhat regularly against the back of the trench, and 
at the same time drawing a little earth up against them with 
the hand as you place them, just to fix the plants in their due 
position until the row is planted ; when one row is thus 
placed, wdth a rake or hoe draw the earth into the trench 
over the plants, and then proceed to open another drill or 
trench, as before directed ; and fill and cover it in the same 
manner, and so on till the whole is planted ; then let the sur- 
face of the beds be raked smooth and clear fiom stones, &c. 

Some gardeners, with a view to have extra large heads, 
place their plants sixteen inches apait in the rows, instead of 
twelve ; and by planting them in the quincunx manner, that 
is, by commencing the second row eight inches from the end 
of the first, and the fourth even with the second, the plants 
will form rhomboidal squares, instead of rectangular ones, 
and every plant will thus have room to expand its roots and 
leaves luxuriantly* 



* The above directions are intended for famiJy gardens. Those who 
may wish to raise Asparagus in large quantities for inar];et. should prepare 
the ground with a plough, and plant two rows in each bed, whicli may be 
carried to any length required. If several beds are wanted, they may be 
planted in single rows four or five feet apart, in order that the plough may 
be worked freely between them Frequent ploughing will cause the roots 
to spread, so as to widen the beds, and the winter dressing may be per- 
formed in a great measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is cut, 
the ground betweon the beds may be ploughed, and planted with Cabbage, 
Potatoes, or any other vegetable usually cultivated in rows. 



ASPARAGUS. 



37 



WINTER DRESSING OF ASPARAGUS BEDS. 

About the beginning of November, if tbe stalks of Aspar- 
agus turn yellow, which is a sign of their having finished 
their gi-owth for the season, cut them down close to the 
earth, carry them off the ground, and clear the beds care- 
fully from weeds. 

Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good 
manure ; let it be laid equally over the beds, two or three 
inches thick, after which, with a fork made for the purpose, 
(which should have three flat tines,) dig in the dung quite 
down to the crowns of the plants, by which means the roots 
will be greatly benefited ; as the winter rains will wash the 
manure down among them. It is the practice with some 
gardeners to dig the alleys at every autumn dressing, and 
cover the beds with the soil taken out ; this may be done for 
the first two years after the beds are made, but not afterward ; 
as, when the plants are in full gi-owth, their roots and crowns 
extend into the alleys, and digging them up frequently de- 
stroys plants, or renders them too weak to produce buds in 
perfection. The beds will be greatly benefited if covered 
to the depth of several inches with leaves, sea-weed, or long 
litter from the livery stables. 

The seedhng Asparagus should also have a slight dressing, 
that is, clear the bed from weeds, and then spread light dung 
over it, to the depth of one or two inches, to defend the 
croviTi of the plants from frost. 

SPRING DRESSING OF THE BEDS. 
This work should be done from about the latter end of 
March to the middle of April, or just before the buds begin 
to rise. After clearing away all long litter, or whatever may 
encumber the ground, spread the short dung over the whole 
surface, and dig it in : if the alleys be dug at the same time, 
it will be very beneficial to the plants. Care must be taken 
at this season not to wound the crowns with the tines of the 
fork, but forking the beds should not be neglected, as admit-- 

4 



38 ASPARAGUS. 

ting the sun and rain into the ground, induces the plants to 
throw up buds of superior size ; to promote such a desirable 
object, the ground should be kept clear of weeds at all sea- 
sons, as these greatly impoverish the soil, and frequently 
smother the plants. 



The gardeners of England raise Asparagus in great pei^ 
fection, and sometimes have buds weighing from three to 
five ounces each. Loudon says, in his Encyclopaedia of 
Gardening, that one grower alone has eighty acres entirely 
under this crop for the London market. 

Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to 
cut for general use, in less than three years from the time of 
planting, but in the fourth year, when the shoots are three 
or four inches high, they will bear extensive cutting, which 
should, however, be discontinued when no large buds are 
thrown up. The best way of cutting is to slip the knife 
down perpendicularly close to each shoot, and cut it off slan- 
tingly, about three or four inches beneath the ground, taking 
care not to wound any young buds proceeding from the 
same root, for there are always several shoots advancing in 
different stages of growth. 

Asparagus is considered a wholesome vegetable, and 
should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being well 
washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds 
each, and boiled in water slightly seasoned with salt, until 
tender, which will be in about twenty minutes ; take it up 
befoi'e it loses its true colour and flavour, and serve it up on 
toasted bread, vsdth melted butter, &c. 



BEANS. 



39 



BEANS. (English Dwarfs.) 
Feve de marais. Vicia faba. 

VARIETIES. 



Early Mazagan. 
Early Lisbon. 
Early Long Pod. 
Large Windsor. 
Large Toker. 



Sandwich Bean. 
Green Genoa. 
Dwarf Cluster. 
White Blossom. 
Green Nonpareil. 



Broad Spanish. 1 Sword Long Pod. 

The principal cause of these garden Beans not succeed- 
ing well in this country, is the summer heat overtaking them 
before they are podded, which causes the blossom to drop 
off prematurely ; to obviate this difficulty, they should be 
planted as early in the year as possible ; as recommended 
in the article, " Forwarding Broad Beans." They are 
generally planted in England, from October to April, for 
early crops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It 
sometimes happens that autumn plantings are injured by the 
coldness of their winters, but an average crop is generally 
obtained. 

In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if a few of 
the best varieties of these Beans be planted in the open 
ground, as soon in the season as it can be brought into good 
condition, they will come into bearing in regular succession, 
according to their different degrees of earliness, and plant- 
ings may be repeated every ten days of the first spiing 
month ; but it is only from those that are planted early that 
any tolerable produce can be expected, as they become defi- 
cient in quahty, as well as in quantity, on the approach of 
extreme warm weather. 

In the Southern States they may be planted in succession 
throughout the autumn and winter months, which will cause 
them to bear early in the ensuing season. 

The best mode of planting is in drills, drawn two inches 
deep, in which the seed Beans may be dropped two or three 



40 BEANS, 

inches apart, according to their size, and the drills may he 
from two to three feet asunder. A strong clayey soil is the " 
most suitable ; but they often do well in moderately light 
ground, provided it be well trodden, or rolled, after the 
Beans are planted. 

As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, they 
will need a careful hoeing ; and if some earth be drawn up 
to their stems, three or four times in the course of their 
growth, it will greatly refresh and strengthen them. 

When they arrive at full bloom, and the lower pods begin 
to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the 
proper time, it will promote the swelling of the pods, as 
well as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops 
to nourish, the whole effort of the root will go to the support 
of the fruit. 

Broad Beans are particularly subject to green bugs. To- 
bacco water, or salt water, will sometimes destroy them ; 
but the most certain way is to watch their first appearance, 
and pick off that part on which they first settle, and burn it ; 
or if such plants be cut down close to the ground, they will 
produce fresh shoots, which may bear a good crop. 

One quart of -seed Beans vnll be required for every sixty 
feet of row, allowing the smallest sorts to be planted about 
two inches apart, and the largest four inches. 

The beans should be gathered young, and shelled while 
fresh. After having been washed, let them be boiled in 
plenty of water vidth a little salt and a bunch of green parsley. 
They take from thirty to forty minutes to boil, according to 
age, and may be served up with melted butter, gravy, &c. ; 
but they are very good when cooked and eaten with fat pork, 
or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon 



BEANS. 



41 



BEANS. (Kidney Dwarfs.) 
Haricot. Phaseolus vulgaris, etc. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Denmark. 

Early Mohawk. 

Early Valentine. 

Early Yellow Six Weeks. 

Early Dun-coloured, or Quaker. 

Early China Dwarf. 

Early Rachel, or Quail's Head. 

Early Rob Roy. 



Early Black Dwarf. 

Large White Kidney Dwarf. 

White Cranberry Dwarf. 

Red Cranberry Dwarf. 

Yellow Cranberry Dwarf 

Refugee, or Thousand to One. 

Marble Swiss Bean. 

Royal Dwarf Kidney, or French. 



These varieties of Beans, being natives of India, South 
America, and other v^^arm dimates, will not endure the least 
cold, and it is therefore always hazardous to plant them in 
the open ground until settled warm weather. The earhest 
varieties, if planted toward the end of April or the first week 
in May, will come to perfection in from six to eight weeks 
after planting. Some of the later varieties will keep longer 
in bearing, and are esteemed by some on that account. 
These, with some of the early varieties, may be planted in 
the months of May and June ; and if a regular succession 
of young beans be required throughout the summer, some 
of the varieties should be planted every two weeks, from the 
last week in April until the beginning of August.* 

These Beans require a Hght, rich soil, in which they should 
be planted in hills, three or four in a hill, or drills about two 
inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches from each 
other ; the drills may be from two to three feet apart. The 
Refugees do best when planted in hills. As the Beans pro- 
gress in growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing some 



* Some gardeners, anxious to have Beans early, are apt to begin plantmg 
too soon in the season, and very frequently lose their first crops. It should 
be recollected, that these Beans are next to Cucumbers and Melons as re- 
gards tenderness, and will always grow quicker and yield better, if the 
planting be delayed until settled warm weather. The Early Mohawk is 
the hardiest, and may sometimes succeed well, if planted about the middle 
of April, but it is much safer to delay the planting of any quantity until 
towards ihe end of the month. 

4* 



earth up to their stems at the same time, which will causo 
them soon to be fit for the table. 

One quart of Kidney Beans will plant from three hundred 
and fifty to four hundred hills, according to the size of the 
Beans, allowing four Beans to each hill, or from two hundred 
and thirty to two hundred and sixty feet of row, allowing 
six Beans to every foot. 

These Beans should not be suffered to get old and tough 
before they are gathered ; be careful in tiimming them, to 
strip off the strings. To effect this desirable object, break 
them across ; and, in order to preserve their greenness, soak 
them in salted water for a short time, then put them into the 
water while boiling, which should be previously seasoned 
with salt. When they are tender, which will be in fiom fif- 
teen to twenty minutes, take them up and drain them through 
a collander, in order to render them capable of absorbing a 
due share of gravy, melted butter, &c. 



BEANS. (Pole or Running.) 
Haricots a rames. 

Phaseolus Limensis. 

VARIETIES. 

Large White Lima. I Speckled Lima. 

Phaseoltis J['IultiJlorus. 

VARIETIES. 
Scarlet Runners. 
Wliite Dutch Runners. 
Dutch Case Knife, or Princess. 
Asparagus, or Yard Long. 



London Horticultural. 
French Bicolour. 
lied Cranberry. 
White Cranberry. 



These species and varieties of Beans may be planted 
early in the month of May and in June, either in hills threo 
feet distant from each other, or in drills about two inclics 
deep, and the Beans two or three inches apart in tlie drilla. 



BF.\NS. 43 

The poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed 
in the ground before the Beans are planted. 

The varieties of Lima Beans should not be planted in the 
open groumd until the second week in May, unless the sea- 
son be very favourable, and the ground warm. As these 
Beans are apt to get rotten by cold and damp weather, let 
six or eight be planted half an inch deep round each pole, 
and afterward thinned, leaving three or four good plants in 
a hill, which hills should be full four feet distant from each 
other every way. . 

The soil for Running Beans should be the same as for 
Dwarfs, except the Lima, which reqiiire richer ground than 
any of the other sorts. A shovelful of rich light compost, 
mixed with the earth in each hill, would be beneficial. 

If any varieties are wanted before the ordinary seasons, 
they may be planted in flower-pots, in April, and placed in 
a greenhouse or garden frame, and being transplanted in 
May, with the balls of eaith entire, will come into bearing ten 
or fourteen days earlier than those which, in the first instance, 
are planted in the open ground. 

It will require about a quart of Lima Beans to plant one 
hundred hills. A quart of the smallest-sized Pole Beans will 
plant three hundred hills and upward, or about two hundred 
and fifty feet of row, and the largest runners will go about 
as far as the Lima Beans. 

Lima Beans should be shelled while fresh, and boiled in 
plenty of v/ater until tender, which generally takes from fif- 
teen to twenty minutes. The mode of cooking and prepar- 
ing the other sorts, is the same as for Kidney Dwarfs. 



44 B£ET. 



BEET. 
Betterave. Beta vuls;aris. 



VARIETIES. 



Karly Scarcity. 
Mangel Wurtzel. 
P'rench Sugar, or Silesia. 
Sir John Sinclair's. 



Early Blood Turnip-rooted. 
Early Long Blood. 
F.xtra Dark Blood. 
Yellow Turnip-rooted. 

Beets, in their several varieties, are biennial, and the best 
blood-coloured are much cultivated for the sake of their 
roots, which are excellent when cooked, and very suitable 
for pickling after being boiled tender ; they also, when sliced, 
make a beautiful garnish for the dish, and the young plants 
are an excellent substitute for Spinach. 

The Mangel Wurtzel and Sugar Beets are cultivated for 
cattle. Domestic animals eat the leaves and roots with great 
avidity. They are excellent food for swine, and also for 
milch cows ; and possess the quality of making them give a 
large quantity of the best-flavoured milk. The roots are 
equally fit for oxen and horses, after being cut up into small 
pieces and mixed with cut straw, hay, or other dry feed.* 

A small bed of the earliest Turnip-rooted, and other es- 
teemed kinds of Beets, may be planted in good rich early 
ground the first week in April, which, being well attended 
to, will produce good roots in June. 

Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two inches deep ; 
drop the seed along the drills one or two inches from each 

* An acre of good, rich, loamy soil has been known to yield two thou- 
sand bushels of beet-roots, some of which weighed from fifteen to twenty 
pounds each. To produce such enormously large roots, they should be 
cultivated in drills from two to three feet apart, and the plants thinned to 
ten or twelve inches in the rows. It is generally conceded, however, that 
moderate-sized roots contain more saccharine matter, in proportion to their 
bulk, than extra large roots, and that twenty tons, or about seven hundred 
bushels, are a very profitable crop for an acre of land, and would be amply 
sufficient to feed ten cows for three or four months of the year. A gen- 
tleman in Connecticut computes the products of one-fourth of an acre of 
good land, at eight tons, which, he says, will support a cow the whole 
year. He allows five tons to feed on for nine months, and the other three 
tons to be sold, and the proceeds applied to the purchase of other food, to 
be siven from the time the roots fail in the spring, until new roots are 
produced. 



BEET. 



45 



other, and cover them with earth. When the plants are up 
strong, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches from 
each other in the rows. The ground should be afterward 
hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds. 

If the planting of Beet seed, for general crops, be delayed 
until May or June, the roots will be much larger and better 
than those from eariier planting, which, fi-om being frequently 
stunted in growth by the various changes of weather, become 
tough, stringy, and of unhandsome shape. In case of the 
failure of crops, or of unfavourable weather in June, Beet 
seed planted the first week in July will sometimes produce 
large, handsome roots, which may be preserved for vdnter use. 

The most suitable ground for Beets is that which has been 
well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh ma- 
nure, provided it be well pulverized. 

It is always best to thin Beets while young. If the tops 
are used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for 
this purpose, or they will greatly injure the roots of those 
that are to stand. Beds that are to stand through the sum- 
mer, should be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots 
intended for winter use should be taken up in October, or 
early in November, and stowed away, as directed in the 
calendar for those months. 

Allowing Beet seed to be planted on the gardening plan, 
it will require at the rate of ten pounds for an acre of land, 
which is two pounds and a half for a rood, and one ounce 
for every perch, pole, or rod. If cultivated on the field sys- 
tem, that is, by planting them a sufiicient distance apart to 
admit of ploughing between each row, one half the quantity 
of seed will be sufiicient, or even less, if sown regular. If 
it be an object with the cultivator to save his seed, he may 
drop some in each spot where a plant is required, and thin 
them as before directed. 

It may be necessary to add, that one pound of Beet seed 
will measure about two quarts, and as each capsule contains 
four or five small seed, thinning out the surplus plants is in- 
dispensable to the production of good roots. 



46 BORECOLE, OR K.iLE. 

BORECOLE, OR KALE. 
Chou Frise Vert. Brassica oleracea, etc. 

VARIETIES. 



Green Curled, or Scotch. 
Dwarf Brown, or German. 
Purple Fringed. 



Jerusalem, or Buda. 
Cesarean Kale. 
Thousand-headed Cabbage. 



There are several sub-varieties of this genus of plants 
besides those above specified, most of vv^hich have large open 
heads, Vi^ith curled wrinkled leaves. The Dwarf Curled, or 
Finely Fringed sorts, are much cultivated in Europe for the 
table ; and the coarse and tall-growing are considered pro- 
fitable for cattle. The Thousand-headed Cabbage, and Ce- 
sarean Kale, grow from three to five feet high, and branch 
out from the stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves 
and sprouts in the winter and spring. 

For the garden, these several varieties may be treated in 
every respect as Winter Cabbage. The seed may be sown 
fi'om about the middle of May to the first week in June, and 
the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich ground. 
They are never so delicious as when rendered tender by 
smart frosts ; they are valuable plants to cultivate, particu- 
larly in the more Southerly States, as they will there be in 
the greatest perfection during the winter months ; they will 
also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a sheltered warm 
situation, bear the winter of the Western States ; and may 
be kept in great perfection in the Eastern States, if taken 
up before the frost sets in with much severity, and placed in 
trenches, up to their lower leaves, and then covered with 
straw or other light covering : the heads may be cut off 
as they are required for use ; and in the spring, the stems 
being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious 
greens. 

One ounce of good Borecole seed will produce about four 
thousand plants, and may be sown in a border four feet by 
ten, or thereabout. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ^ 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Chou de Bruxelles agets. Brassica oleracea. 

This plant frequently grows from three to five feet high, 
and produces from the stem small heads resembling cabbages 
in miniature, each being from one to two inches in diameter. 
The top of the plant resembles the Savoy, when planted late. 
The sprouts are used as winter greens, and they become 
very tender when touched by the frost. 

The seed may be sown about the middle of May, in the 
same manner as Borecole, and the plants set out with a dib- 
ble early in July. The subsequent treatment must be in 
every respect as for Borecole. 

Some gardeners, with a view to furnish the New-York 
markets with greens early in the spring season, when vege- 
tables in general are scarce, cultivate the common Rapfe, 
{Brassica Rapus ;) it being a good substitute for Brussels 
Sprouts, which are not always attainable after a hard winter. 
If Rape seed be so^^n early in September, the plants will 
survive an ordinary winter, and produce top shoots or sprouts 
early ; but it is best sown as soon as the ground is suscepti- 
ble of cultivation in the spring, say the last week in March. 
The sprouts should be cut while young, as such greens then 
command the best prices, and are more palatable than when 
far advanced in growth. 

It may be necessary to add that, in cooking these sprouts, 
as also Kale, Colewort, and greens in general, they should 
be put into hot water, seasoned with salt, and kept boiling 
briskly until tender. If it be an object to preserve their 
natural colour, put a small lump of peariash into the water, 
which also makes the coarser kinds of cabbage more tendex 
in the absence of meat. 



BROCCOLI. 

BROCCOLI. 
CnotJ BftocoLl, Brassica oleracea Italica, 



VARIETIES. 



Early White. 
Early Dwarf Purple. 
Early Green. 
Dwarf Brown. 
Large Late Purple. 



Large Purple Cape. 
White Cape, or Cauliflower. 
Sulphur-coloured Cape. 
Branching Purple. 
Large Late Green. 



The several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower may be 
justly ranked among tlie greatest luxuries of the garden. 
They need only be knoAvn in order to be esteemed. The 
Bi-occoli produces heads, consisting of a lump of rich, seedy 
pulp like the Cauliflovi^er, only that some are of a green 
colour, some purple, some brown, &c., and the white kinds 
so exactly resemble the true Cauliflower, as to be scarcely 
distinguishable, either in colour or taste. 

Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater 
part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble as 
Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the purple Cape 
Broccoli is now generally understood in this part of America ; 
but the cultivation of the other kinds has been nearly aban- 
doned, on account of the ill success attending former attempts 
to bring them to perfection. 

In some of the Southern States, where the winters are not 
more severe than in England, they will stand in the open 
ground, and continue to produce their fine heads from No- 
vember to April. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle 
States, if the seed of the late kinds be sown in April, and 
the earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated 
in the same manner as Cauliflower, it would be the most 
certain method of obtaining large and early flowers ; but as 
only a part of these crops can be expected to come to per- 
fection before the approach of winter, the remainder vnll 
have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and covered up 
with earth to the lower leaves, in some sheltered situation, 
to promote the finishing of their grovrth. 



BROCCOLI..- 49 

Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and Cauli- 
flower in any quantity, so as to have all the different varieties 
in succession throughout the winter months, should have 
places erected similar to some of our greenhouses : the back 
and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which being after- 
ward covered with fresh stable dung, will keep out the frost. 
The place allotted for Cape Broccoli and Cauliflower should 
have a glazed roof to face the south ; the sashes must be 
made to take off in mild weather, but they should be always 
kept shut in severe cold weather, and covered with mats, or 
boards, litter, &c., so effectually as to keep out the frost. 

The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved without 
glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in 
extreme cold weather, which may be covered over with fresh 
stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it 
will be necessary to shade them from the full rays of the sun 
until they are thawed ; this may be done by shaking a little 
straw on the bed as they lay. 

It may not, perhaps, be generally understood, that the sud- 
den ti'ansition from cold to heat is more destructive to vege- 
tables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get frozen, 
and cannot be screened from the full rays of the sun, they 
should be well watered as the air gets warm, and before they 
begin to thaw ; this will draw out the frost, and may be the 
means of saving the plants. 

The proper time for sowing the seed of Purple Cape 
Broccoli is from the tenth to the twenty-fourth of May : * 
those who intend to provide a place for the winter keeping 

* It has been proved by repeated experiments, that the Purple Cape 
Broccoli succeeds better in our climate than any other variety ; and, also, 
that if Broccoli or Cauliflower plants be retarded in growth by extreme 
heat, they seldom arrive at full perfection. It is, therefore, important that 
the time of sowing the seed of Cape Broccoli be so regulated as to allow, 
say six weeks of the summer, for the plants to grow in, previous to their 
being transplanted, and about seven or eight weeks between that and the 
commencement of cool autumn weather, which is essential to mature them. 

If seed be sown much before the middle of May, or so Arly that the 
plants arrive at full growth in the heat of summer, and thereby become 

5 



f)0 BROCCOLI. 

of the other kinds, may sow seed of the most esteemed varie" 
ties at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, a 
week apart. 

In order to insure good stout plants, let the seed at this- 
season be sown in a moderately shaded border. It is best 
to sow it in shallow drills, drawn thi^ee or four inches apart,, 
in which case, one ounce of seed will occupy a border of 
about four feet in width by twelve in length, and produce 
about four thousand strong plants. {See article Cabbage.) 

In the beginning of July, or when the plants are of suffi- 
cient size, they should be transplanted into extraordinarily rich 
ground, which should be previously brought into good con- 
dition. This being done, plant them in rows two feet and a 
half apart, and two feet distant in the rows. As soon as 
they have taken root, give the ground a deep hoeing, and 
repeat this two or three times in the course of their growth, 
drawing some earth around their stems. 

Some of the Cape Broccoli, if attended to as directed, 
will come to perfection early in September and in October ; 
the other kinds will produce their heads in regular succes- 
sion throughout the winter and spring months, according to 
their different degrees of earliness, provided an artificial cli- 
mate be provided for them. These, of course, with what- 
ever may remain of the Cape Broccoli, will have to be taken 
up early in October, and laid in carefully, with the roots and 
stems covered with earth as far as their lower leaves. Those 
vvho have not a place provided, may keep a few in frames, 
or in a light cellar ; but every gardener and country gentle- 
man should have suitable places erected for a vegetable that 
yields such a delicious repast, at a time when other luxuries 
of tbe garden are compaiatively out of our reach. 

stunted, they generally button, instead of forming perfect heads of flowers, 
and are fmiscquently of no use but for cattle. 

In soine of the Southern States, late planting of Broccoli and Cauliflower 
succeeds better than early, because the winters are calculated to mature 
these vesrefabfts, from their not being subject to injury from slight frost, in 
a late stage of their growth. 



CAULlFLOWteft. 51 

CAULIFLOWER. 
CHOtrPLEUR. Brassica oleracea botrytis. 

VARIETIES. 

Early White. | Late White. 

Hardy Red, or Purple Cauliflower. 

This is a first rate vegetable, to obtain whicb, great p&,ins 
must be taken in every stage of its growth, the extremes of 
heat and cold being very much against it : which circum- 
stance accounts for good Cauliflowers being scarcely attain- 
able in unpropitious seasons, and which the novice falsely 
attributes to defectiveness of the seed. 

To produce early Cauliflower, the seed should be sown be- 
tween the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in a 
bed of clean, rich earth. In about four or five weeks after- 
ward, the plants should be pricked out into another bed, at 
the distance of four inches from each other every way ; this 
bed should be encompassed with garden frames, covered 
vrith glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants should 
be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken root; 
they will afterw^ard require fight and air every mild day 
throughout the winter ; but the outsides of the frames must 
be so fined and secured, and the tops of the beds so covered, 
as to keep out all frost. 

The plants should be well attended to until the time of 
transplanting in the spring ; and those who have not hand or 
beU glasses, so as to enable them to set some out by the latter 
end of March, should have a frame ready about the last week 
in February, in order that they may be transplanted to the 
distance of eight or nine inches apart ; this would prevent 
them from buttoning or growing up weak ; if this be not 
done, some of the strongest plants should be taken out of the 
beds and planted in flower pots, which may afterward be 
placed in a frame or greenhouse, until the weather be warm 
and settled, which may be expected soon after the middle of 



52 CAUI-IPLOWER. 

April. They should then be turned out with the balls of 
earth entire, and ti'ansplanted into a bed of the richest earth 
in the garden, at the distance of two feet and a half from 
each other every way; the residue may be taken up from the 
frame the last week in April, or earlier, if the season proves 
mild, by means of a garden trowel, and transplanted as 
above* 

The plants should afterward be well cultivated, by hoeing 
the ground deep around them, and bringing some earth grad- 
ually up to their stem, so as to push them forward before the 
approach of warm weather. When the soil has been drawn 
up to the plants some little time, fork the ground between the 
rows lightly over, which will promote their growth. They 
should be liberally supplied with water in dry weather; those 
out of flower twice a week, and those in, every other day, 
which wdll contribute to their producing very large heads. As 
the floAver heads appear, the larger leaves should be broken 
down over them, to defend them from the sun and rain, in 
order that the heads or pulps may be close, and of their nat- 
ural colour. 

Plants from the autumn sowing are generally allowed to 
succeed best ; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced 
from seed sown in a hot-bed toward the end of January, or 
early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the 
bed in good condition to receive the seed; when the plants 
are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they pro- 



* Many persons are apt to forget, that the successful cultivation of Cau- 
liflower depends on the particular seasons in which the plants are raised 
and set out ; and, consequently, instead of raising their own plants in the 
right seasons, apply for them at the seed-stores and gardens, in May and 
June. Now, it should be recollected, that if early CauliflovYer do not ar- 
rive at, or near perfection, by the end of June, the plants get stunted by 
the heat, and seldom yield any thins; but leaves, except the summer should 
prove mild, in which case, some of the early plants may flower in autumn: 
but it is needless to risk the setting; out of early Cauliflower plants later 
than April for the sake of such chance, because plants raised from seed 
sown about the middle of May, and transplanted in July, are by far the 
most likely to produce good fall Cauliflower. 



CAULIFLOWKR. />3 

gress in growth, they should have as much air as possible, 
consistent with their preservation ; but the beds must be kept 
covered up every night, as long as there is any danger of 
frost. When the plants are three or four inches high, they 
must be pricked out three or four inches apart into another 
bed, and by the latter end of April they may be transplanted 
into the ground, and treated in every respect the same as 
the other. 

In the early pait of May, Cauliflower seed may be sown 
in the open border, in drills, as recommended for Broccoli, 
and one ounce of seed Avill produce about four thousand 
plants. These plants should be pricked out in June, and 
transplanted into good ground early in July, to flower in 
Autumn : those that are not likely to flower by the last of 
October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner 
recommended for Broccoli. 

Cauliflower, and also Broccoli, should be gathered while 
the pulp is close and perfect. After having trimmed off" some 
of the outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of water 
seasoned with salt, taking care to skim it, and also to ease the 
eover of the pot so as not to confine the steam. Take them 
up as soon as the fork will enter the stems easily, which will 
be in from ten to twenty minutes, according to their size 
and age ; drain them so as to make them susceptible of ab- 
sorbing a due proportion of gravy, melted butter, &c. This 
renders them a palatable and dainty dish. 



54 



CABBAGE. 



CABBAGE. 
Chou. Brassica oleracea, etc. 



Early Imperial. 
Early Dwarf Dutch. 
Early York. 
Early Sugarloaf. 
Early Emperor. 
Early Wellington. 
Early Heart-shaped. 
Early London Market. 
Early London Battersea. 



VARIETIES. 

Large Bergen, or Americao. 
Late Flat German. 
Large Green Glazed. 
Large Late Drumhead. 
Red Dutch, for pickling. 
Green Globe Savoy. 
Large Cape Savoy. 
Green Curled Savoy. 
Turnip -rooted, in varieties 



The early sorts of spring Cabbage may be raised in vari- 
ous ways. Some sow the seed between the tenth and twenty- 
fourth of September, piicked out and managed the same as 
CauHflower plants, only that they are more hardy, and may 
sometimes be kept through the winter, without sashes. 

Some prefer sowing the seed in a eold-bed, covered by a 
garden frame with sashes. If this frame be placed on a 
warm border, and kept free from frost, and the seed of the 
early kinds sown the latter end of Januaiy, or early in Feb- 
ruary, these plants will be better than those raised in the 
fall ; as they will not be so liable to run to seed, and they 
will be more hardy, and full as early as those raised in hot- 
beds in the spring. 

Or, if a heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the 
ground intended for the raising of early plants before the 
frost sets in, the same may be removed some mild day in 
January or February, and temporary frames made by driving- 
stakes in the ground, and nailing planks or slabs thereto. 
The ground being then dug, the seed sown, and covered up 
with sashes, will soon produce plants in perfection. The 
frames should be well protected, by placing the manure 
around them, and covering the tops with mats, boards, &c., 
as directed for hot-beds in the Calendar for February and 
March. 



CABiSAGE. f>5 

II is customary with gai-deaers about New- York to raise 
tlieir plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, the beds should 
be prepared, as directed in a future page of this book, (see 
Index,) so as to be ready to receive the seed by the latter 
end of February, or early in March. Plants thus produced, 
as well as those raised as before directed, will be fit to trans- 
plant about the middle of April, and should be carefully 
planted, with a suitable dibble, in good ground, from sixteen 
inches to two feet apart, according to size and kind : these 
by being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in June. 
If seed of the large early kinds be sown in a warm border, 
early in April, they will produce plants fit to transplant in 
May, which will make good Cabbages for summer use.* 

The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown toward the end 
of April or early in May, and that of Savoys and late Cab- 
bage in general, may be sown at two or three different times, 
between the middle and the end 6f May, in fresh rich ground. 

The most certain way of raising good strong plants in the 
summer season, is to sow the seed in a moderately shaded 
border, in shallow drills drawn three or four inches apart. 
One ounce of seed sown in this manner, will occupy a bor- 
der of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and pro- 
duce about four thousand stout plants ; whereas, if seed be 
sown broad-cast, as is the usual custom, two ounces of seed 



* As numerous species of insects attack plants of the Brassica or Cab- 
bage tribe, in every stage of their growth, great caution is necessary in their 
cultivation. For a prevention to the attacks of fleas or flies, see page 19 
of the General Remarks. Perhaps the most effectual way of saving plants 
from grub-worms, is not to transplant any, during the month of June. 
Seed beds are very seldom attacked ; but if they should be, they may be 
protected by digging trenches around them, and throwing in lime, salt, or 
ashes, sufficient to prevent the ingress of the worms. If seed of the vari- 
ous kinds be sown at the times recommended, the early varieties will be so 
far advanced in growth before tlie grub-worms prevail, as to be out of their 
reach ; and by the time the late sown plants are ready to transplant, the 
worms will be harmless, because they turn gray toward the end of June, 
and by the middle of July, the time recommended for general transplanting, 
the danger from grub-worms is over. For the destruction of caterpillars^ 
see General Remarks, page 20. 



56 CABBAGE. 

may not produce so many good plants, as the one ounce on 
the plan recommended. 

The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be transplanted 
the second and third week in July, in rows thirty inches 
asunder, and the plants about two feet apart in the rows : 
the Savoys and smaller sorts may be planted about the same 
time, but from four to six inches nearer every way. Cabbage 
succeeds best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should be 
deeply hoed or ploughed, at least three times, during their 
gi'owth. 

The Brassica Rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces its bulb^ 
or protuberance, on the stems above ground, immediately 
under the leaves. It is eatable when young, or about the 
size of a garden Turnip. 

The seed may be sown in April or May, and the plants 
afterward treated the same as Cabbage, only that in earthing 
up the plants you must be careful not to cover the globular 
part. 

They are much more hardy than Turnips. In England 
the bulbs often grow to upward of twenty inches in circum- 
ference, and weigh from ten to twelve pounds. They axe 
cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for 
table use ; in either case they treat them as they do Cabbage, 
or sow them like Turnips, and afterward hoe them out to, 
proper distances. 

The Brassica JYapus, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage, has an 
oblong thick root in the fonn of a winter Radish ; it is ex- 
tremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts ; the seed 
should be sown in rich ground, and treated in every respect 
as Turnips, observing to thin the plants with a hoe to the dis- 
tance of sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much 
larger and better when treated in this way, than if trans- 
planted. 

The Brassica JYapiis, variety csmlenta, is sometimes culti- 
vated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem by the 
French as a culinary vegetable, and is called the Navet, or 



COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. 57 

French Turnip. In France, as well as in (jermany, few 
great dinners are served up without it, in some shape or 
other. 



COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. 
Chou vert. Brassica oleracea. 

This is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when young; 
it so nearly resembles the early kinds of Cabbage, that it is 
seldom cultivated. The English frequently sow the seed of 
early heading kinds of Cabbage as a substitute, which being 
done at different seasons, enables them to procure a supply 
of fresh gi'eens from their gardens every day in the year. 
This is not attainable here, on account of the extremes of 
heat and cold ; but CoUards would prove very valuable and 
acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable season for fall 
Cabbage. 

If the seed of Early York, Early Dutch, or other early 
kinds of Cabbage, be sown in June, July, and August, and 
tansplanted as they become fit, into good ground, from fif- 
teen to eighteen inches apart, the first planting would make 
good heads for fall use ; and the plants of late sowings, if 
transplanted in September and October, in a warm border, 
would produce tender, sweet-eating greens for use in the 
early part of winter ; the latter plantings may be placed ten 
or twelve inches from plant to plant. These could be easily 
sheltered on the approach of severe weather, without being 
taken up. The cultivation of Collards is well adapted to our 
Southern States, as there they need no protection in vdnter. 



58 CARROT. 

CARDOONS. 
Cardon. Cynara cardunculus. 

The Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is much cul- 
tivated in Europe for cuhnary purposes, such as for salads, 
soups, stews, &c. 

The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are the eat- 
able parts, after being blanched. They are in perfection in 
autumn and winter. 

The seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth in the month 
of April ; and one ounce will produce about six hundred 
plants : when the plants are up strong, they should be thin- 
ned so as to leave them four or five inches apart, to prevent 
them from becoming weak. They may be transplanted in 
June, at the distance of four feet from each other every way ; 
observe, before planting, to dress their tops and roots the 
same as Celery. As they advance in growth, they are to be 
earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together; 
tliis may be done with bass or matting, as practised with En- 
dive ; they are afterward to be earthed up gradually from 
time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. As win- 
ter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up and laid away 
Ijke Celery, or they may be preserved with sand in a cellar. 



CARROT. 
Garotte. Daucus carota. 

VARIETIES. 



Early Orange. 
Long Orange. 
Altringham. 



Long Lemon-coloured. 
Blood Red. 
Long White. 



The Carrot is a native of Britain, and grows by the road- 
side in many parts. As a culinary vegetable, it is much 
used in soups and stews, and forms a dish with boiled beef> 
&c. The coarse sorts are cultivated as fodder for cows, 
sheep, oxen, and horses, and are considered profitable, as 



CARROT. 



59 



they frequently yield upward of four hundred bushels to an 
acre, when cultivated on the field system. 

For the garden, the Early Orange should be cultivated for 
spring and summer use ; but the Long Orange is more suit- 
able for main crops, on account of its bright orange colour, 
as well as for its gi-eat size and length. Can-ots grow to 
great perfection in a rich loamy soil, and may be raised m 
drills drawn about one inch deep, and twelve inches asunder. 
A small bed may be planted at the latter end of March for 
an early crop, and from that time to the end of May for suc- 
cessive crops ; but the principal crop should not be sovm too 
soon, as the early plantings are apt to produce seed-stalks, 
and, consequently, stringy and useless roots. 

The most suitable ground for late Carrots, is that which 
has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no 
fresh manure. If the seed be sown in June, and the plants 
thinned out to the distance of five or six inches from each 
other when young, and kept hoed, they will yield an abun- 
dance of fine roots for winter and spring use, by being taken 
up in autumn, and preserved either in sand in a cellar, or 
covered up in pits in a garden, as directed in the Calendar 
for November. 

Although Carrot seed is naturally small and light, it seldom 
fails to vegetate in favourable seasons ; it, therefore, need not 
be sown too thick in ground not apt. to produce weeds. If 
a root could be insured to grow unmolested in every instance 
where a seed may be deposited, two pounds would be more 
than sufficient for an acre of land ; but gardeners generally 
use four or five pounds to the acre, in order that the rows 
may be more easily traced in the event of a luxuriant growth 
of weeds. To avoid risking an unequal crop in small gar- 
dens, half an ounce of seed should be allotted for every pole, 
perch, or rod, or twenty ounces for a rood of land. On light 
ground, the use of a roller would be beneficial in dry weather, 
excess of which is detrimental to the germination of Can'Ot, 
as well as of all other light seed. 



60 CELERY. 

CELERY. 
Celeri. Apium graveolens. 

VARIETIES. 

White Solid. j New White Lion's Paw. 

Red-coloured Solid. j North's Red Giant. 

Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted. 

This vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is known in 
its wild state by the name of Smallage ; and is found in great 
abundance by the sides of ditches, and near the seacoast of 
Britain. The effects of cultivation are here strikingly exhi- 
bited, in producing from a rank, coarse weed, the mild and 
sweet stalks of the Celery. This circumstance should stimu- 
late the young gardener to aim at improvement in the culti- 
vation of plants in general. 

It is customary with some gardeners to raise their early 
plants in hot-beds ; but as plants thus raised are apt to pro- 
duce seed-stalks, it is much safer to cultivate them in cold- 
beds, prepared as directed for the raising of early Cabbage 
plants. The seed for a general crop may be sown the last 
week in March, or early in April, in rich, mellow ground, 
and in a situation where the plants can be protected from the 
parching heat of a summer sun (a border against a north 
aspect is the most suitable). Some sow the seed broad-cast, 
but the plants will be much stouter if raised in drills. The 
drills may be half an inch deep, and six inches apart, so that 
a small hoe can be worked between the rows ; and if pro- 
perly attended to, every ounce of seed so sowm will produce 
ten thousand strong plants or more. 

The early sown plants should be pricked out in a nursery 
bed of cool rich earth, as soon as they are two or three inches 
high, there to remain about a month, after which they will 
be fit to transplant into the ti-enches. 

Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open 
exposure ; mark out the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches 
wide, and allow the space of three feet between them, which 



CELERY. 61 

will be sufficient for the early plantations. Dig eacn trench 
a moderate spade deep, laying the dug-out earth equally on 
each side, between the trenches ; put three inches deep of 
very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the 
sides, and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of 
the loose mould at the bottom, incorporating all well together, 
and put in the plants.* 

Previous to planting, trim the plants, by cutting off the 
long straggling leaves, and also the ends of the roots. Let 
them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the mid- 
dle of each trench, five or six inches between plant and plant ; 
as soon as they are planted, give them a plentiful watering, 
and let them be shaded until they strike root and begin to 
grow. 

The main crops may be planted in the same way, but in 
trenches four feet distant from each other, and an inch or 
two farther from plant to plant ; or in beds made in the fol- 
lowing manner, which, for the ease of preserving the plants 
in winter, will be found extremely convenient, besides a 
greater quantity can be raised on a given piece of ground. 

Lay out the ground into beds four feet wide, with alleys 
between, three feet ; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing the 
earth on the alleys : when done, lay four or five inches of 
good, well-rotted dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig 
and incorporate it with the loose earth, and cover the whole 
with an inch or two of earth from the alleys ; plant four rows 

* Some gardeners are accustomed to cultivate Celery on the level ground ; 
others, after making their trenches in the usual way, go to the expense of 
carting peculiar soil from a distance, with which they replenish their 
trenches until nearly full. Those who have pursued the latter plan, say 
that they are rewarded for their trouble by gathering roots of superior size 
and quality ; but it is doubtful whether it would prove profitable to prac- 
tice this plan on an extensive scale. It may, however, be judicious in those 
gardeners, whose subsoil, or under stratum, is inferior, or ill-adapted for 
the growth of Celery, to cultivate it in shallow drills, or furrows worked 
out with a plough, by which means they may secure good soil to plant in, 
and also to earth up with. In such cases the rows must be from four to 
five feet apart, and frequent ploughing between them would promote the 
growth of the plants. 

6 



62 CELERY. 

in each bed at equal distances, and from six to eight inches 
apart in the rows ; after which, give them a plentiful water- 
ing, and shade them. 

The plants must be hoed occasionally, until grown of suf- 
ficient size for earthing, which is done with the assistance of 
boards, by laying them along the rows, to support the leaves 
while you are putting in the earth from the alleys, and re- 
moving them as you progress in the business. 

The earthing should never be done when the plants are 
wet, as this is apt to make the Celery rusty, but should be 
performed gradually in fine weather as the plants progress 
in growth, repeating the earthing every two weeks ; at which 
time care should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly, 
and not to bury the hearts of the plants. When they are 
grown two feet high, and well blanched, they are fit for the 
table. 

As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one season, 
it will be necessary to delay the planting of that which is in- 
tended for winter use until the latter end of July, but the 
trenches should always be got ready soon enough to avoid a 
serious drought, which often delays the planting till too late 
in the season. The blanching of Celery for winter use may 
be delayed until October. 

By market gardeners who raise Celery on a large scale, 
the trenches may be worked out with a plough, and finished 
with a spade or hoe. The ground may also be ploughed 
between each row of Celery previous to earthing it up ; tliis 
will save much labour. 

The Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted, may be planted either oh 
level ground or in shallow drills ; the root of it swells like a 
Turnip, and may be preserved in sand through the winter. 
The French and Germans cut it in slices, and soak it a few 
hours in vinegar ; by such simple preparation, it becomes 
mellow as a pineapple, and affords a delicious and very nour- 
ishing repast. 



CORX SAT,AD, OR FETTICUS. Opt 

CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. 

Mache ou doucette. Valeriana locusta. 

VARIETY. — Olitoria. 

This plant grows spontaneously in the corn-fields of Eng- 
land, hence it is called Corn Salad ; and from its being suf- 
ficiently hardy to stand the winter, and affording an early 
pasturage, it has acquired the appellation of Lamb's Lettuce. 
It is cultivated as a salad for winter and early spring use. 
The seed may be sown in rich, clean ground, the latter end 
of August or early in September. 

Some gardeners sow the seed in beds four or five feet 
wide, with paths between each bed, just sufficient to admit 
of room for hand-weeding ; but it will vegetate more freely 
if sown in drills half an inch deep, provided it be carefully 
covered. The drills may be about six inches apart, or just 
sufficient to admit a small hoe to work between the rows ; 
for if the plants are not cleared of all weeds while young, 
they will be more plague than profit, 

Fetticus must be covered up with straw at the approach 
of severe weather, to preserve it in good condition for use in 
the early part of the ensuing spring, as that is the season 
which most amply remunerates the cultivator. 

The seed of Fetticus is small and light, but it vnll admit 
of being sown thick, say at the rate of from four to six 
pounds to an acre of land. 



64 CRESS. 

CRESS. 
Cresson. Lapidium sativum. 

VARIETIES. 

Curled, or Peppergrass. 1 Broad-leaved Garden. 

Cress is a small salad herb, and is generally used with 
Lettuce, White Mustard, Rape, Chervil, &c. It may he 
sown very thick in little drills, as should salad seed in gene- 
ral, and cut before it comes into rough leaf. A small quan- 
tity in the salad season, which is spring and autumn, may be 
sown every week in rich ground, free from weeds. 



CRESS, (Water.) 

Cresson de pontaine. Sisymbrium nasturtium. 

The Water Cress is a creeping, amphibious perennial, and 
is grown very extensively for the London Markets. Loudon 
says, in his Encyclopoedia of Gardening, that " The most 
suitable description of water is a clear stream, not more than 
an inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel ; the 
least favourable, deep, still water, or a muddy bottom. It is 
highly advantageous to make the plantations in newly-risen 
spring water, as the plants do not only thrive better in it, but, 
in consequence of its being rarely frozen, they generally con- 
tinue in vegetation, and in a good state for gathering, through 
the whole winter season. The plants are disposed in rows 
parallel with the course of the stream, about eighteen inches 
apart. When these plants begin to grow in water one inch 
and a half deep, they soon check the current so as to raise 
the water to the height of three inches above the plants, 
which is considered the most favourable circumstance in 
which they can be placed. It is absolutely necessary to have 
a constant current, as where there is any obstruction to the 
stream, the plants cease to thrive. After they have been cut 
about three times, they begin to stock, and then the oftener 
they are cut the better. 



CUCUMBEft; 65 

CUCUMBER. 
CoNcoMBRE. Cucumis sativilSj etCi 

VARIETIES. 



Early Frame. 
Early Green Cluster. 
Early Green Table. 
Long Prickly. 
Short Prickly. 



Long Green. 
Extra Long Green. 
Long White Turkey. 
White Spined. 
West India, or Gherkin. 



The Cucumis sativus, or common Cucumber, is a native of 
the East Indies, and of nearly as great antiquity as the vine. 
It was introduced into England in 1573, and is extensively 
cultivated in forcing frames, and in the open air. In March, 
they are sold in the London Markets for a guinea a dozen ; 
and in August and September for one penny per dozen. 

As Cucumbers are much used in New^-York, it should be 
an object vvith gardeners to have them in the market early ; 
directions for raising them out of the ordinary season, are 
therefore given in a future page, under the head Forcing,' 
Vegetables; to w^hich the reader is referred. Cucumbers 
may be raised in the open ground by planting seed the first 
week of May, in hills four feet apart ; or if the ground be 
light, basins formed an inch below the level of the surface 
would be beneficial.* Previous to planting, the ground should 
be prepared by incorporating a shovelful of rotten dung with 
the earth in each hill, after which four or five seed may be 
planted half an inch deep. One ounce of good seed is suf- 
ficient for two hundred hills and upward. 

Cucumbers are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, which 
sometimes devours young plants ; these and other insects 
may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, powdered char-= 

* The term hill is frequently made use of by gardeners and farmers, to 
designate a situation allotted for a given number of seed, whereas, such 
seed are more frequently deposited below the level of the surface than 
above it ; yet, as the plants progress in growth, hills are frequently formed 
around them, which makes the term applicable, or rather reconciles th© 
apparent contradiction. 

6* 



66 EGG-PLANT. 

coal, and the like, round about the vines when they first 
come up, or by applying the liquid recommended in page 
19 of the General Remarks. After this is done, the plants 
may be thinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground 
•carefully hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the same 
time. The vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the 
weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and then, given 
in the evening, will be of considerable service. 

Picklers may be raised by planting the seed at any time 
in July. Wlien the vines begin to bear, they should be looked 
over, and the fruit gathered as soon as it becomes fit, as the 
plant will cease to bear much if the fruit be permitted to get 
yellow. 



CHIVES, OR GIVES. 

CiVETTE. Allium schoenoprasum. 

This is a small species of Onion, and grows in large .tufts ; 
it is propagated by offsets from the roots, and may be 
planted either in spring or autumn, in rows ten or twelve 
inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in the 
rows ; they vdil soon take root, and increase very fast, form- 
ing large bunches of bulbs. They make handsome edging 
for beds or borders. 



EGG-PLANT. 
Melongene au aubergine. Solarium melongena. 

VARIETIES. 
Purple, for cooking. I White, for ornament. 

The seed of the Purple Egg-plant may be sovm in a hot- 
bed about the first of March ; and the sashes must be kept 
down close until the plants come up, after which a little air 



EOG-PI-ANT. 



6U' 



• 



may be given in the heat of the day * Toward the middle 
of May, if the weather be warm and settled, the plants 
should be set out from twenty-four to thirty inches apart, in 
a rich, warm piece of ground ; and if kept clean, and a little 
earth be drawn up to their stems when about a foot high, 
they will produce plenty of fruit. 

Plants of the white variety may be riased in the same man- 
ner, and transplanted into pots in May; or if some of the 
seed be sown in a warm situation the first week in May, these 
may come to perfection in the course of the summer. This 
variety, though generally cultivated for ornament, is good 
when cooked. 

As Egg plants vnll not grow in the open ground until set- 
tled warm weather, and are apt to perish from being trans- 
planted too early, the gardener should be provided with small 
pots, in order that the plants may be transplanted therein 
early in May, and placed in a frame, there to remain until 
the first week in June, at which time, if they are turned out 
and planted, with the balls of earth entire, they will soon take 
root and grow freely. 

Select the fruit when at maturity; cut it into slices, and 
parboil it in a stewpan ; when softened, drain off the water ; 
it may then be fiied in batter made with wheaten flour and 
an egg, or in fresh butter with bread grated fine and sea- 
soned before it is put in the pan, with pepper, salt, thyme, 
and such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use 
Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, &c. 



* K?g-plant seed will not vegetate freely without substantial beat ; butwith 
proper management, upward of four thousand plants may be raised from 
an ounce of seed. If these plants get the least chilled in the earlier stages 
of growth, they seldom recover ; it is, therefore, important that the frame 
allotted for them be placed over a well-regulated hot-bed,. and partitioned 
off, so that the sash can he kept down over the plants in cool weather. 

Some gardeners raise Efeg-plants in the same frame with Cabbage, and 
such other half-hardy plants- as require air every mild day ? by such man- 
agement, one or the other must suffer for want of suitable aliment, heat 
being the principal food of tender plants, and air that of the more hardy 
species. 



68 ENDIVE, on SUCCORY. 

ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. 
CmcoREE DES JARDiNS. Cichorium endiva, etc. 

VARIETIES. 

Green Curled. | Golden Yellow. 

White Curled. [ Broad-leaved, or Scarolle. 

The Cichorium endiva is a native of China and Japan, andi is 
much used in salads and stews, and as a garnish for the table. 

The proper kind of seed for early sowing is the Green 
Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at different 
times in April and May, by those who would have it early. 
These crops will be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason, 
it will be best to delay the sowing of seed for general crops 
until June, or July. If a small quantity of each esteemed 
variety be sown two or three times in these months, they 
will produce a plentiful supply for use in Autumn and the 
early part of Winter. One ounce of good Endive seed will 
produce about five thousand plants. 

When the plants are three or four inches high, they should 
be transplanted into good ground, at the distance of a foot 
from each other, and immediately watered ; or if they are 
set out in cloudy or wet weather, it will save this trouble. 
The plants will requrie to be hoed and attended to in the 
same manner as Lettuce, until grown to a moderate size, when 
they must be blanched. Select the large and fijll-hearted 
plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a little above 
the middle, not too tight, previously gathering up the leaves 
regularly in the hand. This must be done when the leaves 
are very dry, otherwise the plants will rot. The Cichorium 
intyhus grows spontaneuosly in many parts of Europe and 
America. In France it is much cultivated ; the tops of the 
plants are considered profitable for cattle, and the roots are 
■taken up in Autumn, and dried. The aromatic and volatile 
qualities of coffee are, by the combination of this root, ren- 
dered more mellow and full upon the palate, and its fragrance 
greatly increased, producing an agreeable tonic, and most 
exhilarating beverage. 



HORSE-RADISH, 69 

Sow the seed in April in drills half an inch deep, and about 
eighteen inches apart ; thin out the plants to six or eight 
inches in the row. The plant produces beautiful blue flowers, 
and is worthy of a place in the flower garden. The roots when 
dried, roasted as coffee, and ground, may be mixed in the 
proportion of two ounces of the powder to a pound of coffee. 



HORSE-RADISH. 

Raefort. Cochlearia armoracia. 

This plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either 
cut from the top about two inches long, or by offsets, or 
otherwise useless parts, from the sides of the main root, re- 
taining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as possible. 
These should be planted as early in the spring as practicable, 
in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches from each 
other in the rows. 

Select for the bed a good depth of soil, and such as will 
retain moisture, manure it with well-rotted dung, plough or 
dig it deep, and with a drilling machine or other convenient 
implement, draw drills a foot apart; then plant with a dibble, 
cuttings as above described, in every alternate drill, from two 
to three inches deep. The intermediate drills may be planted 
with Beet or Carrot seed, or that of any other root, but Tur- 
nip Beets are the most suitable to cultivate between the rows, 
as they will grow quick, and can be pulled out without dis- 
turbing the Horse-radish. 

The Beets must of course be thinned out while young, and 
kept cultivated by hoeing between the rows, which will also 
benefit the Horse-radish. After the Beets are pulled, hoe 
the ground again, and keep it clear of weeds, by which 
method the bed may be cleared every year. 

Some cultivate Horse-radish in a permanent bed, in which 
case, if, in taking up the roots, some offsets be left in the 
ground, they will produce a successive supply for future years. 



70 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 

INDIAN CORN. 
Mais. Zea mayz. 

VARIETIES. 
Early Button. Cobbet*s Early Normandy. 

Early Tuscarora. Southern Horsetooth. 

Early Canadian. Early Golden Sioux. 

Sweet, or Sugar. Mottled and Curious Pearl. 

The different varieties of early Corn intended for boiling 
when young, or others as curiosities, may be planted in the 
garden the last week in April, or early in May, in hills four 
feet apart, or in drills. If some of each esteemed variety be 
planted in separate beds at the same time, they vyill come in 
for the table one after the other in regular succession. After 
this, if any particular variety be preferred, it may be planted 
at different times in the month of May and June. If the 
ground be poor, mix a shovelful of old manure with the 
earth in each hill before the seed are planted, and after the 
plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup full of wood ashes 
around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and hilling, 
will cause it to produce ears early. Deep digging or plough- 
ing between the hills is very beneficial when the corn is about 
eighteen inches high. 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 

PoMME DE TERRE, ffeUantJius tuberosom. 

This plant is a native of America. The tubers of the 
root, which are generally abundant, were, before Potatoes 
became improved by cultivation, in great esteem, and are 
yet considered a fine flavoured and nutritious food, when 
boiled and mashed with butter. They may be easily propa- 
gated by cutting the roots into sets, with two eyes in each, 
and planting them in the same manner as Potatoes, in March 
and April. To have them in perfection, they should be hoed 



frequently, and the ground kept loose around them. In dig- 
ging them for use, care should be taken to gather them out 
clean, as the least particle left will grow the year following, 
and encumber the gi'ound, without producing a crop worth 
standing. 



LEEK. 
PoiRREAU. Mlium porriim. 

VARIETIES. 
Scotch, or Flag. I Large London. 

This is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy as 
to endure the extremes of heat and cold without injury. The 
seed may be sown in March, or early in April, in a bed of 
rich earth, in drills about an inch deep, and a sufficient dis- 
tance apart to admit of a small hoe being worked between 
the rows, allowing one ounce of seed for every three thou- 
sand plants that may be required. 

If the ground be kept loose and clean around the plants, 
they will be fit to transplant in June, or early in July, and 
should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve inches 
asunder, and the plants five or six inches apart in the rows. 
They will grow well in a warm border, which at this season 
is useless for many kinds of vegetables. Aftei the plants have 
taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept free 
from weeds. 

Those who wish to have Leeks blanched, may plant them 
in trenches three or four inches deep, and as the plants in- 
crease in growth, the earth should be drawn by a hoe into 
the trenches. 



72 LETTUCE 

LETTUCE 

Laitue. Lactuca saliva crispa. 



Large Green Head. 
Dutch, or Cabbage. 
Tennis Ball, or Rose. 
Madeira, or Passion. 
Large Green Curled. 
Loco Foco. 



VARIETIES. 

Early Silesia. 
Imperial, or Sugar Loaf. 
Pale Green, or Butter. 
Grand Admiral. 
Large Summer Silesia. 
Paris Loaf Coss. 



It would be easy to fumisTi a more extensive catalogue of 
Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but as this is one of 
those kinds of vegetables that can only be raised in perfec- 
tion during mild and temperate vv^eather, it is needless for 
the gardener to plant any in the open ground, but such as 
have been tested, and found to stand a tolerable degree of 
warm weather, which generally prevails in May and June, 
and consequently cuts short the salad season. Those who 
nave been accustomed to raise head Lettuce in any quantity, 
know the trouble of preparing the ground and planting, and 
the loss they would sustain if several thousand plants should 
run to seed just as they appeared to be perfecting for market. 
As this is often the case, even with the very best attention, I 
would caution gardeners to test such plants as they are not 
acquianted with, before they set out any quantity with a view 
to their heading.* 

The six varieties inserted in the first column of our cata- 



* It may be necessary here to remind the gardener, that moisture is the 
most essential nutriment of Lettuce, and that the very best varieties may 
run to seed without forming heads, in the event of extreme warm weather. 
Those who put off the sowing of seed until May and June, instead of 
sowing it in March and April, as directed, may procure head Lettuce from 
some of their strongest plants, by transplanting them into rich ground as 
soon as they are an inch or two in height, and the remainder, if left thin in 
the beds, may produce small heads, by stirring the earth around them with 
a small hoe, or weeding hook ; these are as good for family use as larger 
heads, and those persons who are fond of Lettuce may raise such through- 
out the summer ; but market gardeners seldom attempt it, unless they 
have a tract of moist, loamy soil, peculiarly adapted to the growth of head 
Lettuce, in any thing like a propitious season. 



LETTUCE. 73 

logue have been known to stand our winters, and may be 
sown from the first to the middle of September, in rich 
ground, free from weeds ; they answer very well when sown 
with Spinach, and should be covered with straw at the ap- 
proach of severe weather. These plants, if transplanted into 
warm borders, or in the open ground, as early in March as 
the weather will permit, will produce fine heads early in the 
month of May. 

The best of the tender kinds of Lettuce should be sown in 
moderate hot-beds early in March, and if transplanted into 
good ground by the middle of April, will produce their heads 
before the approach of warm weather. Such kinds as are 
known to produce heads in hot weather, and also such as ai-e 
intended to be cut as a small salad while young, m.ay be somtt 
in warm borders in March and April ; but those designed for 
heading should be transplanted as soon as they are an inch 
or two in height, and kept in a growing state by frequent 
hoeing, or they may run up to seed as the season advances. 

If it be an object with the gardener to have good strong 
Lettuce plants for transplanting, the seed should be sown 
very thin. One ounce of good seed is sufficient for a border 
of six feet in width by eighteen feet in length, and will pro- 
duce from ten to twelve thousand plants. 

All kinds of Lettuce intended for heading should be plant- 
ed in good ground, twelve inches distant from each other 
every way ; the plants should be carefully hoed every othei 
week during their growth ; the first hoeing should be done 
in about two weeks after they are transplanted. 

The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched ; this is done 
by gathering up the leaves of the plants and tying bass round 
them, when grown to perfection. 

If Head Lettuce be required at other seasons than the 
spring, it may be obtained in autumn by sowing seed in Au- 
gust, or in the winter by means of garden frames and glazed 
sashes. [See article o« Forcing' Vegetables] 



74 MELON. 

MELON. 

Melon. Cucumis melo. 



Green-fleshed Citron. 
Murray's Pineapple. 
Green-Heshed Persian. 
Green-fleshed Mutmeg. 



VARIETIES. 

Large Yellow Cantcleupe. 
Pomegranate, or Musk Scented. 
Skillman's P'ine Netted. 
Snake, (curious.) 



The Melon is an exotic plant, growing wild in Asia. It 
is cultivated in all the warm countries of Europe, and also 
in Afiica and America, where its sahibrious and cooling fruit 
is generally esteemed. 

For the varieties of the Musk or Canteleupe Melons, pre- 
pare a piece of rich ground early in May ; manure it and 
give it a good digging ; then mark it out into squares of six 
feet every way ; at the angle of each square, dig a hole 
twelve inches deep and eighteen over, into which put about 
six inches deep of old rotten dung ; throw thereon about four 
inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well with the 
spade ; after which draw more earth over the mixture, so as 
to form a circular hill about a foot broad at top. (For a de- 
finition of the term " hill," see article Cucumber.) When 
your hills are all prepared, plant in each, toward the centre, 
six or eight grains of seed, distant two inches from each 
other, and cover them about half an inch deep. One ounce 
of good Melon seed will plant about one hundred and twenty 
hills. 

When the plants are in a state of forwardness, producing 
their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in 
each hill ; draw earth from time to time round the hills, and 
about the roots of the plants. As soon as the plants have 
spread into branches, stop them by pinching off the top of 
the first runner bud; this will strengthen the plants, and pro- 
mote their perfecting the fruit early ; after which keep the 
ground perfectly free from weeds by frequent hoeing. 

There are many varieties of the Melon, highly esteemed 



WATER MELON. 75 

in Europe, which do not succeed in this country ; the gar- 
dener should, therefore, plant only such as have been tested 
and found to produce good fruit here, or our superior old 
sorts may become degenerate. After a judicious selection 
is made, if caution be not used to plant the different sorts 
remote from each other, and from Cucumbers, Squashes, and 
Gourds, degeneracy will infallibly be the consequence. To 
prevent the ravages of flies, &c., see General Remarks, pages 
19 and 20. 



WATER MELON. 
Melon d'eau, Cucurhita citrulhis. 

VARIETIES. 

New Jersey. 1 Goodwin's Imperial. 

Carolina. I Citron, for preserves. 

The Water Melon, though by some considered a species 
of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic plants. They 
afford a very refreshing article of luxury in our warm sum- 
mers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of his journey to the 
southern provinces of Russia, in 1793 and '94, speaking of a 
colony of Moravians in Sarepta, or Sapa, on the River Volga, 
says, " The ingenious inhabitants of this town brew a kind 
of beer from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons, 
with the addition of Hops ; they also prepare a conserve or 
marmalade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for 
syrup or treacle." 

In order to have Water Melons in perfection, you must 
fix upon a piece of very rich light soil; prepare, plant and 
manage it in every respect as is directed for Musk Melon, 
only, let the hills be seven or eight feet distant every way. 
One ounce of seed will plant from forty to fifty hills. 



76 NASTURTIUM, OR STLHTION. 

MUSTARD. 
MouTARDE. Sinapis. 

VARIETIES, 

White. I Black. 

The Alba, or White Mustard, grows spontaneously in the 
fields of England ; it is also cultivated as a small salad, as well 
as for seed. The seed yields from every hundred pounds, 
from thirty-three to thirty-six pounds of sweet mild oil. 

White Mustard Seed is much used as a medicine, and per- 
sons subject to disordered stomachs often derive great benefit 
by taking a spoonful of the dry seed, two or three times a day 
Some use it in pickles, to which it imparts an agreeable fla- 
vour, and renders Cucumbers in particular more salutary. 

The JVfgrft or Common Mustard, is also a native of England. 

The condiment called Mustard, and in daily use at our table 
is prepared from the seed of this species. 

The seed, of each variety, may be sown in clean rich 
ground in April and May; and for a fall salad in September 
in shallow drills. 



NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION. 
Capucine. Tropceolum. 

This is an annual plant, a native of Peru, and is highly 
deserving of cultivation for the sake of its brilliant orange 
and crimson coloured flower, as well as for the berries, 
which, if gathered while green and pickled in vinegar, make 
a good substiute for capers, and are used in melted butter, 
v/ith boiled mutton, &c. 

The seed should be sowm in April, or early in May, in 
drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales ; or trellises 
should be constructed, on which they can climb and have 
support, for they will always be more productive in this way 
dian when suffered to trail on the ground. 



ONION. 77 

OKRA. 
GoMBO. Hibiscus esculentus. 

The green capsules of this plant are used in soups, stews, 
&c., to which they impart a rich flavour, and are considered 
nutritious. Its ripe seed, if burned and ground like coffee, 
can scarcely be distinguished therefrom. 

The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first 
or second week in May, if settled warm weather, but not 
otherwise, as it is a very tender vegetable. Draw drills about 
an inch deep, and three or four feet asunder, into which drop 
the seed at the distance of six or eight inches from each 
other, or rather drop two or three in each place, lest the one 
should not grow and cover them nearly an inch deep. As the 
plants advance in growth, thin them out, earth them up two 
or three times, and they will produce abundantly. 



ONION. 
OiGNON. Mlium cepa, etc. etc. 

VARIETIES. 
New England White. 1 Yellow Dutch. 

Large Red. Strasburgh, or Flanders. 

Yellow, or Silver Skinned. I Madeira. 

Of the several varieties of Onions, the Yellow or Silver 
Skinned, and Large Red, are the best for a general crop. The 
bulbs are handsome, of firm growth, and keep well through 
the winter. The New England White are handsome for the 
table, and very suitable for pickling, as well as to pull while 
young, and generally prove a very profitable crop. 

Previous to sowing Onion seed for a general crop, the 
ground should be well prepared by digging in some of the 
oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier 
this be done in the spring, the better, and the planting should 



78 ONION. 

not be delayed longer than the middle of April. The seed 
may be sown moderately thick, in drills one inch deep and 
twelve inches apart.* 

Those who cultivate Onions for the sake of their bulbs, 
may use at the rate of four or five pounds of seed per acre. 

As market gardeners, in the vicinity of large cities, find it 
most profitable to pull a great proportion of their Onions 
while young, they generally require at the rate of from eight 
to ten pounds of seed to an acre of land. 

When the plants are up strong, they should be hoed. Those 
beds that are to stand for ripening, should be thinned out while 
young, to the distance of two or three inches from each other. 
If a few should be required for use after this, those can be 
taken which incline more to tops than roots ; and if the beds 
be frequently looked over, and the small and stalky plants 
taken away where they stand thickest, the remaining bulbs 
will grow to a larger size. The plants should be hoed at least 
three times in the early part of their growth; but if the season 
prove damp, and weeds vegetate luxuriantly, they must be 
removed by the hand, because after the Onions have begun to 
bulb, it would injure them to stir them with a hoe. 

When the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions, it 
is time to take them up ; for from this time the fibrous roots 
decay. After they are pulled, they should be laid out to dry, 
and when dry, removed to a place of shelter. 

The small Onions may be planted in the following spring. 
Even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good bulbs, 
if the seed stems be taken oif as soon as they appear. 

* Onion seeil may be sown at any time from March to September, but 
those only can be depended upon for rippnin°;, which are sown in the first 
and second spring months. It is a singular fact, that Onions will not ripen 
later than August or the early part of September, however warm the 
weather may be ; tfiey can, however, be preserved in the place where they 
grow, by spreading some short dung ovpr them in autumn, just sufficient 
to prevent their purging out of the ground in winter. Onions thus pre- 
served, often prove more profitable to market gardeners in the spring, than 
crops which ripen ; because ripe Onions are then scarce, and green ones 
prove a good substitute for Shallots, Welsh Onions, Leeks, &c. 



The Allium Jistulostim, or M'elsh Onion, is cultivated for 
spring salad ; it forms no bulbs, but is very hardy. If the 
seed be sown early in September in lich ground, although 
the tops may die down in the winter, yet the roots will con- 
tinue sound, and put up new leaves e^rly in the spring. 

The Jlllium cepa, or common White and Red Onions, are 
most generally cultivated by market gardeners as a substitute 
for the Jlllium fistulosum ; they sow the seed in the spring 
and autumn months, the product of which is pulled and sent 
to the market while young, and generally meets vidth a ready 
sale. 

The Allium proliferum, or Tree Onion, is propagated by 
planting the bulbs in spring or autumn, either the root bulbs, 
or those produced on the top of the stalks ; the latter, if 
planted in the spring, will produce fine Onions. These may 
be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots. 

The Potato Onion, Allium tuberosum, does not produce 
seed as other Onions, but it increases by the root. One sin- 
gle Onion, slightly covered, will produce six or seven in a 
clump, partly under ground. 

The bulbs are generally planted in tlie spring, from twelve 
to eighteen inches apart, but they will yield better when 
planted in autumn, as they will survive the winter if slightly 
covered with dung, litter, or leaves of trees, &c. 



PARSLEY. 
Persil, Apium petroselinum. 

VARIETIES. 
Dwarf Curled. I Single, or Common. 

Extra Curled. | Large Rooted Hamburg. 

Parsley is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild in moist 
climates, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The 
leaves of the Common Parsley are used as a pot herb, and 



80 PARSLEY. 

those of the Extra Curled kinds make a fine garnish. The 
Large Rooted are generally cooked for the table in autumn 
and winter, like Parsnips. 

As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt to lay in 
the ground some time before it vegetates, and often fails in 
dry weather, the general crop should be sown in a cool 
situation by the early part of April, in drills an inch deep, 
and one foot asunder, allowing at the rate of about six or 
seven pounds of seed to the acre, or two ounces for every 
three perches of land.* 

After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent 
hoeing. The Large Rooted Parsley should be thinned out 
while young, and managed the same as Carrots and Parsnips. 

In order to have Parsley green through the winter, the 
old leaves should be picked off in September. If some of 
the roots be taken up early in November, and laid in a 
frame, or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long time ; 
the remainder may be covered up with straw in the place 
where it grows. 

If Parsley seed be sown in frames in spring or summer, 
it may be pieserved for winter use vnthout the trouble of 
removing it. 

* It frequently happens that Parsley seed will remain in the ground 
three or four weeks, without showing any signs of vegetation, and in the 
event of extreme dry weather, is apt to decay for want of its most essen- 
tial aliment — moisture. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown about 
an inch apart in each drill, are well adapted to promote the growth of 
Parsley ; because Radish seed being quick in germinating, will open the 
pores of the earth ; and the plants, as they progress in growth, will create 
a shade, sufficient to protect the Parsley from the full rays of the sun. 



PARSNIP. 81 

PARSNIP. 
Panais. Pastinaca sativa. 

VARIETIES. 
Long Guernsey Cup. 1 Large Dutch, or Common. 

This is a hardy biennial plant, common in calcareous 
soils ; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and forms a 
vegetable dish in the winter, with salt meat, salted fish, &c. 

Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of March 
till the middle of May, in drills one inch deep and fourteen 
inches apart ; and as this vegetable requires a long season 
to grow in, the sooner the seed is planted the better. Pars- 
nips gi'ow best in a deep soil, which has been well manured 
the preceding fall. Sow the seed thick along the drills, at the 
rate of five or six pounds per acre, and rake them in evenly.* 

When the plants are two or three inches high, thin them 
to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They 
should be kept free from weeds, by regular hoeing through 
the summer, and in autumn they vdll be fit for use ; but they 
improve in flavour after having been frozen, and will endure 
the severity of a hard winter. See Calendar for November. 

Parsnips require from thirty to forty minutes boiling, ac- 
cording to their size and age. Some boil them in water 
seasoned with salt, until tender ; but they are better Avhen 
boiled with salt pork, and afterward mashed and fried in 
butter. 



* The Parsnip, although when in full growth it will endure the extremes 
of heat and cold, requires peculiar management to promote and preserve 
germination in an early stage of culture. In order to give the seed a fair 
chance, it should be planted in ground susceptible of moisture, and not 
apt to encrust when dry. The seed should be dropped thick along the 
drills, and well covered, as single or solitary plants are apt to perish, from 
not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and in the 
event of drought such plants die off prematurely. If cultivated in hg!n 
ground, it should be rolled or pressed immediately after depositing the seed 
therein, but this should not be done while the earth is wet. A few grain.s 
of Long Radish seed, sown in each drill as directed for Parsley, will also 
prove beneficial to Parsnips. 



S2 PEPPER. 

PEPPER. 
PoivRE ou piMENT. Capsicum. 

VARIETIES. 

Grossum, or Bell Pepper. I Long Red, or Bird's Bill. 

Tomato-shaped, or Squash. | Cherry, or West Indian. 

Sweet Spanish; used as a salad, has a very delicate taste. 

This family of plants are natives of the East and West 
Indies ,- some of their capsules, or pods, are yellow, and 
others red, when at maturity ; they are much used for pick- 
ling, and should be gathered for that purpose before they are 
fully ripe. 

The seed of the different kinds of Capsicums may be sown 
in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border, early in May. 
One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand plants. 
When the plants arrive at the height of from one to two 
inches, they should be transplanted into good rich ground, 
from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each other. 

Those who do not want Peppers early in the season, may 
sow seed in the open ground in May, in drills two feet asun- 
der, and half an inch deep. When the plants are grown an 
inch or two high, thin them to the distance of fifteen or 
eighteen inches in the rows. The ground should be after- 
ward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds 
by repeated hoeings. 

The Capsicum Grossum, or Bell Pepper, is perennial, and 
will keep in perpetual bearing in warm climates. In Eng- 
land this species is considered superior to all others, on ac- 
count of its skin being thick, and also pulpy and tender ; the 
plants are therefore frequently preserved in hot-houses dur- 
ing the winter and spring, and kept in the open air in settled 
warm weather. 



PEA. 

PEA. 
Pois. Pisum saiivum. 



83 



VARIETIES. 



Early Cedo NuUi, or Race Horse, 3 ft. 
Early Frame, 2 to 3 feet. 
Early Warwick, ?i feet. 
Early Washington, 3 feet. 
Early Charlton, 3 feet. 
Double Blossom Frame, 3 feet. 
Bishop's Early Dwarf, 2 feet. 
Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 2 feet. 
Dwarf Spanish, or Fan, 1 to 2 feet. 
Early Nimble Dick, 3 feet. 
Dwarf Blue Imperial, 2 to 3 feet. 
Waterloo Blue, 4 feet. 

Albany Field 



Groom's Dwai'f Blue Proiiflc, 4 ft. 
Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2 to 3 feet. 
Dwarf Marrowfat, 3 to 4 feet 
Ladies' Finger Marrows, 4 feet. 
Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet. 
Knight's Tall Marrow, 6 feet. 
Knight's Dwarf Marrow, 3 feet. 
Woodford's Green Prolific, 6 feet. 
Large Grey Rouncival, 4 feet. 
Dwarf Sugar, (eatable pods,) 3 feet. 
Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 feet. 
French Bouquet, or Sugar, 3 to 4 ft 
in varieties. 



The above list and description of the most esteemed kinds 
of Pea are taken from the catalogue of Mr. G. C. Thorburn. 
If they are rightly described, they will grow to diffei'ent 
heights, according to soil and season. This description, 
however, may serve as a guide for the gardener in planting. 
The Dwarf Pea require less distance between row and row, 
and shorter sticks than the tall kinds. 

Planting the early kinds of Pea should commence as soon 
in the spring as the ground can be brought into good condi- 
tion ; all the other sorts, as well as the early, will answer for 
successive crops ; to obtain which, a few of the most esteemed 
varieties should be planted at the same time every two weeks, 
from March until the end of May. Persons desirous of 
having Peas throughout the summer and autumn, may plant 
a few in June, July, and August. In dry weather the Peas 
should be soaked in soft water five or six hours before plant- 
ing, and if the ground be very dry, it should be watered in 
the drills. 

Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas. 
Some plant them in ridges, others in drills, some in single 
rows, others in double ; some use sticks for the dwarf kinds, 
and others not ; those who studv neatness should, however, 



84 PKA. 

have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish may do 
without. 

All the different sorts of Pea may be planted in double or 
single rows, from four to six feet apart, according to the 
different heights they may be expected to grow. If two 
drills be made three inches deep, and about nine inches 
apart, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately 
thick, they will yield better than single rows, and will save 
sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high, let 
them be hoed, drawing, at the same time, a little eaith up to 
their stems ; when they get to double that height, let them 
be hoed again ; at the same time, place a row of sticks in the 
middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller 
ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb- 
ing to their main support. You must be governed as to the 
length of your sticks by the description of your Peas. There 
is great advantage in having sticks of a suitable height to 
the various kinds of Peas ; the sticks should not only be suf- 
ficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants may readily 
take hold ; and they should be prepared fan fashion, so that 
the side branches may extend only along the rows. As the 
plants progress in growth, let them be repeatedly hoed and 
earthed up ; this will promote a plentiful bearing. 

One quart of Peas will plant from one hundred and fifty 
to two hundred feet of row, allowing the largest kinds to 
average one inch apart, and the smallest, two peas to the 
inch. If cultivated on the field system, one bushel will plant 
an acre of land, and produce about a hundred bushels of 
green Peas. 

To have green Peas in perfection, they should be gathered 
while young, and cooked immediately after they are shelled, 
or they will soon lose their colour and sweetness. Let the 
water be slightly seasoned with salt, and boiled ; then put in 
the Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the 
cover so as to let off" the steam ; they require about fifteen 
minutes boiling, or five minutes more or less, according to 



POTATO. 



85 



the age and care bestowed. Taste and try in time, so as to 
have them done to a nicety. 

The Sugar Peas have no inner tough film, or skin, to the 
pods, like the common sorts ; they should therefiare be boiled 
without shelHng, and served up the same as Kidney Beans. 



POTATO. 
PoMME DE TERRE. Solanum Tuherosum. 

The Potato is known to be a native of the southern parts 
of America, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. 

The varieties being very numerous, it is unnecessary for 
me to point out any particular kinds ; some of the earliest 
should, however, be planted first in the spring, to produce 
young Potatoes in due season ; but they are not so suitable 
for a full crop as the late varieties. 

Potatoes being of such extensive utility, vaiious expedients 
have been contrived with a view to find out the best method 
of preparing the seed. In many parts of England, (where 
Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers 
seldom plant them whole ; they take the Potatoes as they 
come to hand, and in cutting them, take care to have two 
good eyes in each set ; the small Potatoes are deprived of 
the sprout or nose end, as it is generally considered that a 
redundancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak 
plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. I have 
frequently known from five to six hundred bushels raised 
from an acre with small Potatoes alone cut in this way. 
Some prefer planting the sets immediately after they are 
cut ; the better way is to get them cut a week before the 
time of planting, and to lay them out on a barn, or garret 
floor, to dry. 

It will require from twelve to sixteen bushels of Potatoes 
to plant an acre of ground, according to the size and nature 

8 



86 POTATO. 

of the seed roots, the manner of preparing, and mode of 
planting the same. 

Potatoes may be planted from the first week in April until 
July, either in hills or drills ; the best way for a garden is to 
plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about thirty 
inches asunder ; the sets may be dropped six or eight inches 
apart; and if a small quantity of combmaker's horn shavings 
or sea weed be used as a manure for the early kinds, it will 
expedite their growth ; the ground should be hoed as soon 
as the plants come up, and as they progress in growth it 
will be proper to mould or earth them up twice. 



POTATO, (Sweet.) 

POMME DE TERRE DOUCE. ConVolvuluS btttatUS. 

Sweet Potatoes are grovra to great perfection in the 
Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of New- 
York, by means of a moderate hot-bed, in which they should 
be planted whole, early in April, three or four inches deep, 
and about the same distance apart. In about a month they 
will throw up sprouts. When these are three inches above 
ground, part them off from the Potato, which, if suffered to 
remain, will produce more sprouts for a successive planting ; 
transplant them into rich light soil, in rows four feet apart, 
and the plants about a foot apart in the rows, or in hills four 
feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until the vines begin 
to cover the ground, after which they will grow freely. In 
sandy ground, it is well to put a shovelful of rotten manure 
to each plant. 

A moderate hot-bed, five feet square, put down early in 
the month of April, with half a peck of good sound Sweet 
Potatoesplaced therein, win produce a succession of sprouts 
in May and June, which if planted and managed as directed, 
will yield about fifteen bushels of good I'oots. 



PUMPKIN. 87 

PUMPKIN. 
CiTRouiLLE ou PoTiRON. CucurUla pepo. 

VARIETIES. 

Finest Cheese, or Family. 1 Connecticut Field. 

Mammoth, or Spanish. | White Bell. 

This plant is highly deserving of cultivation, particularly 
in new^ settlements ; the large sorts are profitable for cattle, 
as some of the mammoth tribe have been known to weigh 
upward of two hundred pounds each ; the other kinds are 
also very productive, and may be raised on any waste land, 
provided it will admit of digging small spots, of the dimen- 
sions of one or two feet, every ten or twelve feet, for the 
hills, and the residue of the ground be unencumbered for 
the plants to run on. They are generally raised, on culti- 
vated farms, between hills of Indian Com, and may be 
planted in the garden or open field, in May and June, in hills 
eight or ten feet apart, with three or four seed in each hill. 
One quart of Field Pumpkin seed will plant from five to 
six hundred hills. An ounce of the finer kinds will plant from 
fifty to eighty hills. 

Pumpkins are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either 
Melons or Cucumbers, but in other respects are cultivated in 
the same manner, only that in raising them on a large scale 
the ground may be prepared with a plough, and afterward, 
as the weeds advance, the plough and harrow may be used 
between the plants until they begin to run, which will save 
much labour. 

The finest quahty of Pumpkins are known to make good 
pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked up with 
wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose they are fully 
equal to Indian meal. The knowledge of this fact may prove 
advantageous to farmers Hving at a distance from cities, as 
they may find a market for their grain or meal readier than 
for their Pumpkins. 



RADISH. 
Radis or; Rave. Raphaniis sativus. 

VARIETIES. 



Long Scarlet. 
Long Purple. 
Scarlet. Pear-shape. 
Scarlet Turnip. 
White Turnip-rooted. 



Long White Naples. 
Purple Turnip. 
Yellow Turnip. 
White Spanish. 
Black Spanish. 



The different varieties of Radish are extensively cultivated 
near large cities, chiefly for their roots, which are considered 
a luxury after a hard vi^inter, and prove acceptable as v\^arm 
weather approaches, provided they can be obtained in per- 
fection. The plant is also cultivated for the sake of the seed 
leaves, which are used as a small salad ; and even the seed 
pods, if pickled while young and green, are considered by 
some a good substitute for Capers. 

Those who may be desirous of having good Radishes 
early in the spring, should have a warm border prepared in 
the very best manner, so as to be ready to sow some of the 
Short Top Scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground 
should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this 
time, let it be delayed a few days ; and by the first of April, 
have another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging 
in some good strong manure. The seed may be sown broad- 
cast, and raked in evenly, or in drills dravni about one inch 
deep, and a foot apart.* 

If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow 
seed of the most esteemed varieties every two weeks, until 
the middle of May : if any be sown after this, it should be 
the kinds described in the second column of our Catalocrue. 



* In the seasons for planting Carrot, Parsnip, Parsley, Leek, Celery, and 
such other seed as are tardy in germinating, a few grains of Radish seed 
dropped in eacli drill will produce good roots, and this crop will prove 
beneficial to those above enumerated, because the rows can be traced by 
the Radishes, which being of quick growth, may be pulled by the time the 
other plants are in full leaf. 



ROCAMBOLE. 89 

These will endure the heat better than the others, and may- 
be sown in drills, in small quantities, throughout the summer, 
until the latter end of August, when all the varieties may be 
sown in regular succession till the first of October. Market 
gardeners may prepare the ground with a plough, and cover 
such seed as may be sown broad-cast with a harrow. 

For early spring crops, the seed may be sown broad-cast, 
at the rate of from twelve to fourteen pounds to the acre, 
and about half that quantity will be sufficient, in drills drawn 
a foot apart. Of the large late kinds, five pounds to the acre 
will be enough, if sown regularly in drills, as directed. 

It may be necessary here to remind the gardener of the 
necessity of sowing tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., over his 
seed beds, in hot, dry weather, or he will find it difficult to 
raise Radishes in unpropitious seasons. [See article Turnip, 
also page 19 of the General Remarks.] 



ROCAMBOLE. 
Ail d'Espagne. Allium scorodoprassum. 

This and the Allium sativum, or common GarHc, are raised 
in some gardens. Many people consider the Rocambole to 
be of a milder and better flavour than Garlic, but the bulbs 
are not so large. 

The plants are very hardy, and will grow in almost any 
soil or situation. They may be propagated either by the 
roots or seed ; the former ought to be separated and planted 
at the same time, and in the same manner, as Shallots. 

If raised from seed, they may be sown in drills, either 
shortly after the seed is ripe, or in the succeeding spring ; 
they require only to be kept clear of weeds, and in the fol- 
lowing autumn may be taken up, the bulbs parted, and 
planted as before. 



8» 



90 RHUBARB. 

RHUBARB. 

Rhubarbe. Rheum. 

Rhubarb is a genus of exotic plants, comprising seven 
species, of which the following are the principal : 

1. Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb, a native of Thrace 
and Syria, has long been cultivated in British gardens for 
the footsalks of the leaves, which are frequently used in pies 
and tarts. 

2. Rheum undulatum is also cultivated for the same use. 

3. The Palmatum, or true Officinale Rhubarb, is a native 
of China and the East Indies, whence its culture has been 
introduced into Europe : it produces a thick, fleshy root, 
externally yellowish brown, but internally of a bright yellow 
colour, streaked with red veins. It grows to great perfection 
in Scotland, as far north as Perthshire, (lat. 5Q,) and in Eng- 
land, Turkey, and various other parts of Europe. When 
the importance of this root as a medicine is considered, it is 
a matter of astonishment that it has not been more generally 
introduced into the United States. 

The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagated by off- 
sets taken from the roots early in the spring, or from seed 
sown late in autumn, or in March and April, in drills one 
inch deep and a foot apart. The indispensable points to the 
production of good roots of the Palmatum, are depth and 
richness of soil, which should be well pulverized before the 
plants are set out. Prepare beds of fine mould eighteen 
inches deep ; in these put in the plants from the seed-bed, 
ten or twelve inches apart; this must be done when they 
have attained the height of four or five inches, and have 
thrown out as many leaves. 

The first season is the most critical, and much care is ne- 
cessary. If the weather be hot, the nursery must be shaded, 
and at all events frequently watered ; for water, though 
hurtful to old plants, is now of the first impoi'tance. Wet 
weather is the most proper time in which to plant. The 



RHUBARB. 91 

beds must be kept free from weeds during the summer, and 
on the approach of severe weather, covered up with light 
litter. In the early part of spring, this must be taken off, 
and in the beginning of April the plants must be transplanted 
into ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus. 

Those who cultivate the Palmahim for the sake of the 
roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, and 
place the plants three feet apart every way. As to the other 
varieties, it is not so particular, only the plants must have 
room in which to grow. In the early part of November, the 
leaves being then decayed, the beds should be covered with 
dry litter ; before this is done, a little earth should be drawn 
round the crowns of the plants. If theie be any danger of 
water lodging, make trenches to carry it off. In the month 
of March, the beds should be stripped of their covering, and 
the ground well hoed and cleared of weeds. 

The roots of the Palmalum must not be taken up until six 
or seven years old. The stalks of the other kinds may be 
cut every spring, as soon as the leaves are expanded. 

If Rhubarb stalks be required for use early in the spring, 
they may be obtained by placing flour barrels or deep tubs 
over some of the plants, and covering them up with fresh 
stable dung, or by any of the methods pointed out in the 
article under the head of Forcing Vegetables. 

The stalks of this plant are used for pies and tarts. After 
being stripped of the skin, or outer covering, and divested 
of the small fibres, or stringiness to which the plant is liable, 
in an advanced stage of growth, the stalks should be cut 
transversely into very small pieces, and then parboiled with 
sugar, and such spices as best suit the palate. Rhubarb will 
keep this way the same as other preserves, and may be used 
not only in pies and tarts, but it makes an excellent pudding, 
which is done by flattening a suety crust with a rolling-pin, 
then spreading on the fruit, rolling it up in an oval shape, 
and boiling it in a cloth. Prepared in this way, the fruit 
retains its virtues, and the pudding may be served up hot, in 



92 SALSIFY. 

slices of from half an inch to an inch thick, with butter and 
sugar spread between the layers. 

Some boil the stalks to a juice, which being strained 
through a colander, will keep for years, if well spiced and 
seasoned with sugar. 

In England, large drying houses have been erected for the 
purpose of curing the roots of the Palmaium ; but this busi- 
ness may be done in this country as it is done in China : by 
the heat of the sun. After the roots have been well washed, 
and the small fibres cut off, they are to be cut transversely 
into pieces about two inches thick, and dried on boards, turn- 
ing them several times a day, in order to prevent the escape 
of the yellow juice, on which its medicinal qualities depend. 
In four or five days they may be strung upon strings, and 
suspended in a shady but airy and dry situation, and in two 
months afterward they will be fit for the market. 



SALSIFY. 
Salsipis ou Cercifis. Tragopogon porrifoliiis. 

This plant grows spontaneously in the open fields of Eng- 
land, and is by some highly valued for its white edible root, 
and for the young shoots rising in the spring from plants a 
year old ; these, when gathered while green and tender, are 
good to boil and eat in the same manner as Asparagus. 
Some have carried their fondness for this plant so far as to 
call it Vegetable Oyster. It requires the same kind of soil 
and management as Can-ots and Parsnips. 

The seed maybe sown at anytime in April and May, an inch 
deep, in drills twelve inches apart. When the plants are two 
or three inches high, they should be thinned to the distance of 
six inches from each other, and afterward hoed. The ground 
should be kept clean and loose roimd the plants, by repeated 
hoeing ; in the autumn they will be fit for use. The roots 



SCORZONERA. 



93 



may be taken up late in autumn, and secured in moist sand 
from the air ; or suffered to remain out, and dug up when 
wanted. 

As the seed of Salsify do not all ripen uniformly, it should 
be sown moderately thick. To insure a regular crop, five 
or six pounds may be allowed for an acre of ground, or two 
ounces for every three perches. 

The mode of cooking recommended by an American au- 
thor is, " To cut the roots transversely into thin pieces ; boil 
them in water, or milk and water ; when boiled soft, mash 
them, and thicken the whole with flour to some degree of 
stiffness ; then fry them in the fat of salt pork, or butter ; 
they are a luxury." 

In England the tops are considered excellent food when 
boiled tender, and served up with poached eggs and melted 
butter. They are by some considered salutary for persons 
inclined to consumption. Those afflicted with any symp- 
toms indicating the approach of that complaint, cannot harm 
themselves by eating the tops, when they are to be got, which 
is in the month of April ; and if the roots are eaten when 
attainable, they may, perhaps, answer a still better purpose, 
and even the liquor in which they are boiled may possess 
some of the most valuable properties of the plant. 



SCORZONERA. 
ScoRSONERE. Scorzonera Hispanica. 

This plant has long been raised in British gardens, for 
culinary purposes, and especially as an ingredient in soups, 
on account of its palatable and nourishing roots. Some boil 
and eat them like CaiTOts, &c. ; in which case they should 
be deprived of their rind, and immersed in cold water for 
half an hour, or they wiU be bitter. They are raised pre- 
cisely in the same manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown in 



94 SEA-KALE. 

April, in a good deep soil, the roots will attain perfection in 
autumn, and continue good all the winter. They last from 
three to four years, according to the quality of the earth and 
the care bestowed upon them ; but it is better to raise a few 
from seed every year. 



SEA-KALE. 
Chou MARIN. Crambe maritima. 

This plant is found on the sea-shore, in the southern parts 
of England, where it grows spontaneously. As soon as it 
appears above ground, the inhabitants remove the pebbles 
or sand with which it is usually covered, to the depth of sev- 
eral inches, and cut off the young and tender leaves and 
stalks, as yet unexpanded and in a blanched state, close to 
the crown of the root ; it is then in its greatest perfection. 
When the leaves are full grown, they become hard and bit- 
ter, and the plant is not eatable. 

It is cultivated in private gardens, and for sale, in various 
parts of England. Cultivators have differed widely respect- 
ing the mode of treating this plant; many conceiving that 
stones, gravel, and sea sand are essential to its growth, have 
gone to the expense of providing them ; but it has been dis- 
covered that it will grow much more luxuriantly in a rich 
sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth. 

The seed of Sea-Kale maybe sown in October, or as early 
in the spring as the ground can be brought into good condi- 
tion, in drills an inch and a half deep, and fourteen or six- 
teen inches asunder ; the plants should afterward be thinned 
out to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in 
the rows, and kept clear of weeds by frequent hoeing through 
the summer. When the plants are a year old, every third 
row may be taken up, and also every other plant in each 
row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches apart ; these 



SEA-KALE. 95 

may be transplanted into good ground prepared as directed 
for Asparagus. Plant two rows in eacli bed, about eighteen 
inches apart ; the best way is to make two drills three inches 
deep, and with a dibble set in the plants fifteen or sixteen 
inches from each other; when these drills are filled, the 
crowns of the plants will be covered nearly two inches, but 
they will soon push through the earth. The plants left in 
the seed-bed may form a permanent bed, which should be 
forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this being done, 
lay on an inch or two of good rotten manure, and incoiporate 
it with the earth around the plants. 

Some make new plantations of the old roots, which should 
be cut up into pieces of about two inches in length, and 
planted in March or April, three or four inches deep, at the 
distance before directed for the plants. 

At the approach of winter the leaves will die away, and 
disappear. The beds should then be thickly covered with 
dung, leaves, or sea-weed ; this will not only protect the 
plants from frost, but will cause them to shoot up early in 
the spring. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this 
may be taken off, or, if well rotted, it may be mixed up with 
the earth ; the crowns of the plants should then be covered 
to the depth of ten or twelve inches for blanching. 

Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand ; some common 
sand and gravel ; and others with large garden pots, inverted 
and placed immediately over the plants. If these pots be 
covered up with fresh horse dung, it will forward the shoots 
in gi'owth, and make them sweeter and more tender. 

When your plants have been covered in either method 
three or four weeks, examine them, and if you find that the 
stalks have shot up three or four inches, you may begin cut- 
ting ; should you wait till all the shoots are of considerable 
length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in this 
plant there is not that successsive growth which there is in 
Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you see the heads 
of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time you uncover it 



96 SEA-KALE. 

entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Broccoli is 
usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it an excellent 
substitute ; and this greatly enhances the value of the plant ; 
as Broccoli does not stand our winter frosts, and can only be 
had when carefully protected, as recommanded when treat- 
ing of that vegetable ; but Sea-Kale is sufficiently hardy to 
bear our winter frosts, vdthout much injury. You are not 
to weaken the roots too much by over-cutting, for in that case 
it would injure their next year's bearing : some of the shoots 
should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper vegetation, 
and strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care should be 
taken in cutting, not to injure the crowns of the roots by cut- 
ting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale should be dressed 
soon after it is cut, as the goodness of the article greatly de- 
pends on its not being long exposed to the air. 

If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all round a 
small bed, about three feet wide, and thirty inches deep ; fill 
it with hot dung, and as it sinks, raise it. This will make 
the plants grow ; and if hand lights are set over them, it 
will accelerate their growth. 

To have this rare vegetable in perfection, it should be 
cooked as soon as gathered. Let it be first soaked in water, 
seasoned with salt, for half an hour ; then wash it in fresh 
water, and put it into the cooking utensil ; keep it boiling 
briskly, skim clean, and let off steam. "When the stalks are 
tender, which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty-five 
minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, and 
serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such condiments 
as are most agreeable to the palate. 



SHALLOT. 97 

SKIRRET. 
Chervis, ou Gyrole. Sium sisarum. 

This plant is first cultivated, by seed, and afterward by oiF- 
sets taken from the old roots, and planted very early in the 
spring, before they begin to shoot ; but it is best to raise a 
small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow longer 
than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be sticky. 
The seed may be sown in drills the latter part of March, 
or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify, Parsnip, 
&c. In autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots axe 
fit to use, and continue so till they begin to shoot in the spring. 

Skirrets should be planted in a light, moist soil, for in dry 
land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves wet. 

The root of the Skirret is composed of several fleshy 
tubers as large as a man's finger, and joined together at the 
top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper, 
and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold, with oil 
and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the taste 
and flavour of a Parsnip, and are by some considered a great 
deal more palatable. 



SHALLOT. 
EcHALOTE. Mliiim ascalonicum. 

The true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is considered 
to possess the most agreeable flavour of any of the Allium 
genus ; it is consequently highly deserving of cultivation. 

It is propagated by planting bulbs, or offsets, in the fall of 
the year, which may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve 
inches apart, and from four to six inches distant in the rows ; 
or they may be placed in drills, two or three inches deep, 
and covered up with a trowel or hoe. 

The gardeners about New- York plant large quantities of 
the bulbs toward the end of August, and early in SepJipm- 



98 SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 

ber ; by this means they are enabled to supply the market 
in Apiil and May with a mild Mlium, which while green 
meets a ready sale. 

Those intended for seed may remain in the ground until 
June or July ; after the tops have decayed, the bulbs must 
be taken up, and the offsets divided : these should be kept in 
a dry place to plant the ensuing autumn. 

It will require at least four bushels of bulbs, if measured 
when first taken from the ground, to plant a quarter of an 
acre ; because after they are trimmed and deprived of their 
seed stalks, the bulk will be reduced one half. 



SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 
Epinard. Spinacia, 

VARIETIES. 
Large Round-leaved. I Holland, or Lamb's Quarter 

Broad-leaved Savoy. | Newr Zealand. 

The Spinacia oleracea, or common Spinach, is very hardy, 
and consequently a very important vegetable for cold cli- 
mates. It merits attention from its being extremely whole- 
some and palatable, and from its keeping green even after 
having been cooked. It makes a delicious dish when served 
up with the gravy of roast meat, melted butter, &c. 

As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised to ad- 
vantage the latter end of the year, the gardener should, to- 
wards the end of August, prepare such ground as may have 
been occupied by summer crops, and by having it well ma- 
nured for this crop, it will be in good condition for Beets, 
Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c., the spring following. 

If the gi'ound be got ready, so as to have several beds 
sown in succession, from the first to the end of September, 
the most forward of these, if covered up with straw at the 
approacl'. of cold weather, will furnish greens for the table 
when other vegetables are scarce, and the later crops will 



SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 99 

recover the effects of a hard winter, and produce a whole- 
some vegetable early in the spring. 

If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and 
April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut before the ap- 
proach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. To raise it in 
perfection at this season, it should be sown in drills about a 
foot apart, and be frequently hoed ; this will keep it in a 
growmg state, and, consequently, prevent its running up to 
seed as quick as it otherwise would. 

It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground; 
let the ground be well manured with good strong dung, and it 
will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant produce. 
If Spinach be cultivated in drills a foot apart, it will re- 
quire from seven to eight pounds of seed to plant an acre 
of ground. Some gardeners use more than double that 
quantity in sowing broad-cast. 

Be careful to pick Spinach exceedingly clean, and wash 
it in five or six waters previous to cooking it. Some cook 
Spinach in a steamer over boiling water, others boil it in 
water ; but the best way is to put it into a saucepan that will 
just hold it, without water, then strew a Httle salt upon it, 
and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear quick fire;' 
and when you find the Spinach shrunk and fallen to the bot- 
tom, and the juice which comes from it boil up, it is done. 
In order that it may be rendered capable of absorbing a 
moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, &c., which are 
indispensable with green vegetables, let it be well drained 
in a sieve, or colander, before it is dished. 

The New Zealand Spinach, or Tetragona expansa, is not 
much cultivated in this country; its nature seems to be op- 
posite to the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat 
better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer, 
by planting the seed in April and May. Being of luxuriant 
gi-owth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and 
about two seed in a hill. The leaves will be fit for use dur- 
ing the summer, and until late in the autumn. 



100 



SQUASH. 



SQUASH. 
Gourde Giraumon ou Potiron. Cucurbita melopepa. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Bush Scollop. 
Green Striped Bush. 
Early Crookneck. 
Large Cushaw. 



Vegetable Marrow. 
Winter Crookneck. 
Lima Cocoanut. 
Acorn, or California. 



The several varieties of Squash are very useful in this and 
other waxm climates, as they can be grown in perfection in 
the summer, and therefore prove a good substitute for Tur- 
nips, which cannot be raised in perfection in hot weather. 
They should be planted in May and June, in hills, prepared 
in the same manner as for Cucumbers and Melons, and their 
subsequent management is the same in every respect. The 
bush kinds should be planted three or four feet apart, and 
the running kinds from six to nine, according to their nature, 
as some will run more than others. It is always best to 
plant five or six seed in a hill, to guard against accidents ; as 
when the plants are past danger, they can be thinned to two 
or three in a hill. One ounce of Squash seed will plant from 
fifty to a hundred hills, according to the sorts and size of the 
seed. 

The fruit of the Early Summer Squash is generally gath- 
ered for use before the skin gets hard, and while it is so ten- 
der as to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb nail. 
The Winter Squashes should be suffered to ripen, and collect- 
ed together in October, in the manner recommended in the 
Calendar for that month. 

All kinds of Squashes should, after ha,ving been boiled 
tender, be pressed as close as possible between two wooden 
trenchers, or by means of a sHce or skimmer, made of the 
same material, until dry, and then prepared for the table in 
the same manner as Turnips. 



TOMATO. 101 

TOMATO. 
ToMATE, ou PoMME d'amour. Solanum lycopersicum. 

VARIETIES. 
Large Red. j Pear-shaped. 

Large Yellow. | Cherry-shaped. 

The Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated for its 
fruit, which is used in soups and sauces, to which it imparts 
an agreeable acid flavour ; it is also stewed and dressed in 
various ways, and is considered very wholesome. 

The seed should be sown early in March, in a slight hot- 
bed, and the plants set out in the open ground, if settled 
warm weather, in the early part of May. In private gar- 
dens it v/ill be necessary to plant them near a fence, or to 
provide trellises for them to be trained to, in the manner 
recommended for Nasturtiums ; they will, however, do very 
well, if planted four feet distant from each other every way. 

Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the sum- 
mer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the first week 
in May ; these plants will be fit to transplant early in June, 
and the fruit may ripen in time for preserves, or for catsup. 

One ounce of good Tomato seed will produce upward of 
four thousand plants ; and a single plant has been known to 
yield upward of a bushel of fruit. 

Tomatoes may be preserved in a stone or glazed earthen 
pot, for use in the winter, by covering them with water in 
which a sufiicient quantity of salt has been dissolved to make 
it strong enough to bear an egg. Select perfectly ripe ber- 
ries, and cover the pot with a plate in such a manner that it 
presses upon the fruit without biuising it. Previous to cook- 
ing these Tomatoes, they should be soaked in fresh water 
for several hours. 

Besides the various modes of preparing this delicious ve- 
getable for the table, it may be preserved in sugar, and used 
either as a dessert, or on the tea-table, as a substitute for 
Peaches or other sweetmeats. It also makes exqusite pies ' 
and tarts, and excellent catsup. 



102 



TURNIP. 



A celebrated writer observes, that " the common Tomato 
made into a gravy, by stewing over the fire, and used as a 
sauce for meat, has been knovs^n to quicken the action of the 
liver and of the bowels, better than any medicine he ever 
made use of." He states farther, that " when afflicted with 
inaction of the bowels, headache, a bad taste of the mouth, 
straitness of the chest, and a dull and painful heaviness of 
the region of the liver, the whole of these symptoms are 
removed by Tomato sauce, and the mind, in the course of 
some few hours, is put in perfect tune." 

To make them into catsup, use one pint of salt to one 
peck of Tomatoes ; bruise them, and let them stand two 
days ; then strain them diy, and boil the juice until the scum 
ceases to rise, with two ounces of black pepper, the same 
quantity of pimento or allspice, one ounce of ginger, one of 
cloves, and half an ounce of mace. 



TURNIP. 

Navet. Brassica rapa. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Garden Stone. 
Early White Dutch. 
Early Snow Ball. 
Early Red Top. 
Strap Leaved Red Top. 
Early Green Top 
Yellow Aberdeen. 
Long White. 



Large English Norfolk. 

Long Tankard, or Hanover. 

White Flat, or Globe. 

Yellow Maltese. 

Yellow Stone. 

Dale's Yellow Hybrid. 

Long Yellow. 

Russia, Swedish, or Ruta Bag 



This is a wholesome and useful plant, both for man and 
beast, and highly deserving of cultivation. It being the last 
esculent vegetable in our catalogue, that is raised from seed 
sold at the various seed stores, I shall endeavour to stimulate 
tliose of our yeomanry who have hitherto neglected the cul- 
ture of this field as well as garden production, to exertion 
and diligence, by inserting a few extracts from a paper that 
now lies before me. 



TURNIP. ' - 



« Culture of Turnips.— Vntil the beginning of the eigh- 
teenth century, this valuable root was cultivated only in gar- 
dens, or other small spots, for culinary purposes ; but Lord 
Townsend, who attended King George the First m one of 
his excursions to Germany, in the quality of Secretary of 
State, observing the Turnip cultivated in open and extensive 
fields, as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility over lands 
naturally barren, on his return to England brought over some 
of the seed, and strongly recommended the practice which 
he had witnessed, to the adoption of his own tenants, who 
occupied a soil similar to that of Hanover. The experiment 
succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Turnips gradually spread 
over the whole county of Norfolk, and has made its way into 
every other district of England. Some of the finest gram 
crops in the world are now growing upon land, which be- 
fore the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, produced a 
very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and half-starved 

rabbits." . 

Mr. Colquhoun, in his ' Statistical Researches, estimated 
the value of the Turnip crop annually growing in the United 
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, at fourteen milhon 
pounds sterling, (equal to upward of sixty millions of dol- 
lars ) But when we farther recollect, that it enables the 
agriculturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which, without its 
aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural barrenness ; 
that it leaves the land clean and in fine condition, and also 
insures a good crop of Barley, and a kind plant of Clover; 
and that this Clover is found a most excellent pieparative 
for Wheat, it will appear that the subsequent advantages 
derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely exceed its 
estimated value as fodder for cattle. 

The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may 
be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other 
things of equal value. It must, however, be granted, that 
some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better 
than others, and that, in general, exotic platits will succeed 



104 TURNIP. 

best in such soils as are nearest like their own native soil. 
As we have not always a choice, I would inform the Young 
Gardener, if he has a very light soil, which is not suitable 
for vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops of 
Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the first crop 
in March, and that for his second about the middle of August. 
For general crops, it will be better to have ground manured 
with short rotten dung, or compost containing a considerable 
proj5ortion of coal, wood, peat, or soapers' ashes. Ground 
that has been well manured for preceding crops, and also 
ground fresh broken up, will do well for Turnips. 

It is important that particular attention be paid to the time 
of sowing the seed ; for if the first crop be not sown soon 
enough to be gathered early in July, they are seldom fit for 
the table, being hot, stringy, and wormy ; and if the crop in- 
tended for autumn and winter use is sown before August, 
unless it be a very favourable season, if they even escape 
the attacks of insects and reptiles, they often get so defective, 
that they seldom keep through the winter.* 

To have Turnips in peifection, they should be hoed in 
about a month after they are sown, or by the time the plants 
have spread to a circle of about four inches, and again about 
a month from the first hoeing, leaving them from six to nine 
inches apart. They will yield the cultivator more profit 
when treated in this way, than when left to nature, as is too 
frequently done. 

♦ Previous to sowing Turnip seed, ttie gardener should procure a suitable 
quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so as to be prepared for the attacks 
of insects. It should be recollected that Turnip seed will sometimes sprout 
within forty-eight hours after it is sown, and that very frequently whole 
crops are devoured before a plant is seen above ground. A peck of either 
of these ingredients, mixed with about an equal quantity of ashes, or even 
dry road dust, scattered over the ground, morning and evening, for the first 
week after sowing the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided the 
composition be used in such a way that the wind carry it over the whole 
plot ; and as the wind often changes, this end may be effected by crossing 
the land in a dirterent direction each time, according as the wind may serve. 
If gardeners who raise Radishes, Cabbage, and such other vegetables as are 
su'iject to the attacks of insects, were to pursue this course, they would 
save themselves from considerable loss. 



TURNIP. 105 

It is generally admitted that one pound of Turnip seed is 
amply sufficient for an acre of gi'ound, yet some will use 
considerably more, because of the difficulty of distributing so 
small a quantity of seed regularly broad-cast. This difficulty 
is, however, obviated by sowing the seed in drills ; and al- 
though it may seem a tedious process to those who have no 
other means of doing it than by hand, the facilities thus af- 
forded of hoeing between the rows, more than compensate 
for the extra labour. 

I once induced a friend of mine to sow four ounces of 
Turnip seed, in August, in drills a foot apart, by which 
means he made it extend over more than half an acre of 
land ; and by hoeing the plants tvnce, he had the gratifica- 
tion of pulling four hundred bushels of handsome Turnips, 
which is more than is generally taken from an acre of land 
cultivated in the ordinary way. 

If seed of the Russia or Swedish Turnip be sown in drills, 
any time in the month of July, or even early in August, they 
will produce fine roots toward the end of October, pro- 
vided the land be good, and well worked. When the plants 
are up strong, they must be hoed and thinned to the distance 
of twelve or fifteen inches from each other ; another hoeing 
will be necessary in five or six weeks afterward. This will 
make them grow freely. If cultivated in the field, frequent 
ploughing between the rows will be beneficial. 

The Turnip is a favourite vegetable with some, and in 
England, a leg of mutton and caper sauce is considered by 
epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To 
have them in perfection, they should, after having been de- 
prived of their rind, be equalized by cutting the largest trans- 
versely in the centre, and then, after being boiled tender, let 
them be taken up, and pressed as dry as possible ; at the same 
time, let a lump of butter and a due proportion of Cayenne 
pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up v\ath the Turnips 
until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from the meat 
unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most esteemed. 



106 



AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. 



AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. 

Graines d'Herbes Aromatiques, odoriferantes et a 
l'usage de la cuisine. 



Angelica, Garden, 

Anise, 

Basil, Sweet, 

Borage, 

Burnet, Garden, 

Caraway, 

Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, 

Clary, 

Coriander, 

Dill, 

• Fennel, Common, 

• Fennel, Sweet, 
Marigold, Pot, 

• Marjoram, Sweet, 

• Mint, Spear, 

• Mint, l»epper, 

• Mint, Penniroyal, 

• Sage, Common, 

• Sage, Red, 
Savory, Summer, 

• Savory, Winter, 

• Tarragon, 

• Thyme, Common, 

• Thyme, Lemon, 



Angelica atropurpurea- 
Pimpinella anisum. 
Ocymum basilicum. 
Borago officinalis. 
Poturium sanguisorba. 
Carum carui. 

Scandix odorata cerefolium. 
Salvia sclara. 
Coriandrum sativum, 
Anethum graveolens. 
Anethum foeniculum. 
Anethum duke. 
Calendula officinalis. 
Origanum marjorana. 
Mentha virides. 
Mentha piperita. 
Mentha pulegium. 
Salvia officinalis. 
, Sahda clandestinoides. 
Satureja hortensis. 
Satureja montana. 
Artemisia dracunculua. 
Thymus vulgaris. 
Thymus serpyllum. 



Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odour 
and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs, 
and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As only 
a small quantity of these are necessary in private gardens, a 
by-corner may be allotted for them, and such medicinal herbs 
as may be wanted in a family. 

It may be necessary to explain, as we go along, that there 
are three principal descriptive names given to plants, namely, 
Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The Annuals being but 
of one season's duration, are raised every year from seed. 
The Biennials are raised from seed one year, continue till 
the second, then perfect their seed, and soon after die ; some 
of these should also be raised every year from seed. The 
Perennials may be raised from seed, but when once raised, 
they will continue on the same roots many years. Those 



MEBICINAL HERBS. 



107 



marked * are of the latter description, and may be propagated 
by suckers, offsets, cuttings, or parting the roots. Those 
who have not already a plantation of these herbs, may sow 
the seed of any of the different kinds in April or May, in 
drills about half an inch deep, and twelve inches apart, each 
kind by itself. The plants may afterward be transplanted 
into separate beds ; or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two 
feet apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the plants 
afterward thinned out to proper distances, according to the 
natural growth of the different kinds of plants. 



PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL AND 
OTHER PURPOSES. 



Graines de Plantes Medicinal. 



Bene, 

Boneset, or Thoroughwort, 

•Balm, 

Bean, Castor Oil, 

Burdock, 

Catnep, 

Celandine, 

* Chamomile, 

* Comfrey, 

* Elecampane, 
Feverfew, 

* Horehound, 

* Horsemint, 

* Hyssop, 

* Lavender, 
Lovage, 

* Mallow, Marsh, 

* Motherwort, 

* Patience Dock, 

* Pinkroot, Carolina, 
Poppy Opium, (annual,) 

* Rosemary, 

* Rue, Garden, 
Saffron, Bastard, 
Skullcap, or Mad Dog Plant. 
Snakeroot, Virginian, 

* Sorrel, 



Sesamum orientate. 
Eupatorium perfoliatum. 
Melissa officinalis. 
Recinus communis. 
Arctium lappa. 
Nepeta cataria. 
Chelidonum majus. 
Anthemis nobilis- 
Symphytum officinale. 
Inula helenium. 
Chrysanthemum parthenium. 
Marubiam vulgare. 
Monarda punctata. 
Hyssopue officinalis. 
Lavendula spica- 
Ligusticum levisticum. 
Althea officinalis. 
Leonurus cardiaca. 
Rumex patentia. 
Spigelia Marylandica. 
Papaver somniferum. 
Rosmarinus officinalis. 
Ruta graveolens. 
Cartharnus tinctorius. 
Scutellaria lateriflora. 
Aristolochia serpeniaria, 
Rumex ■acetosa. 



108 AROMATIC HERBS, ETC. 

* Southernwood, Artemisia abrotanum. 

* Speedwell, Virginian, Veronica Virginica. 

* Spikenard, Aralia racemosa. 

* Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare. 

* Wormwood, Artemisia absinthium. 

The generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs 
may be raised from seed sown in April and May. The 
greater part of the above-mentioned plants are Perennial, 
and will multiply from the seed they drop, or from partings 
from the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants thus 
raised, should be planted at suitable distances from each other 
early in the spring. 

The beds should afterward be kept free from weeds, and 
as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry 
day, and spread in a shady place to dry, for winter use. The 
best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub 
them so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in 
bottles or boxes, each kind by itself ; they should be after- 
ward kept in a dry place. 

In the month of October, the hei'b beds should be exam- 
ined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender plants, should 
be taken up, potted, and placed in a frame or greenhouse 
for the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, Winter Savory, Southern- 
wood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will require their tops to be 
neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet, Tarragon, Tansy, 
Penniroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, 
Lovage, and other kinds of hardy Perennial Herbs, should 
be cut down close to the ground. 

After this is done, it will be proper to dig lightly, and 
loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants ; 
but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint, 
Running Thyme, and all other creeping herbs, will not well 
admit of digging ; therefore, after the stalks are cut down, 
and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleys, and strew some 
of the loose earth evenly over the beds ; and if the ground 
be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten dung 
will be of considerable service. 



PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. 109 

This dressing will give proper nurture and protection to 
the roots of the jDlants, a neat appearance to the garden, and 
in spring the shoots will rise with renewed vigour. 

Having finished the Catalogue, I will now proceed to give 
directions for making the most of a piece of ground well 
manured for early crops. In the general directions at the 
commencement, I observed that good rich manure was indis- 
pensably necessary to the production of some particular 
kinds of vegetables ; it may be farther observed, that rich 
ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it re- 
quires some attention, to make use of it to the best advan- 
tage. If the gardener has leisure to dig such ground in 
March or April, as he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Toma- 
toes, Egg-plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Ra- 
dishes, Spinach, Lettuce, or other small salads on it, by leav- 
ing a space for his hills or drills ; or Radish seed may be 
sown lightly over the beds of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, &c., but 
they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure 
the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it requires 
a little consideration before a second is planted, in order that 
a sufficient quantity of the best ground may be reserved for 
the most particular and valuable varieties of vegetables. 

That I may be understood, I have adopted the following 
plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same 
pui'pose as bringing my readers on the ground. 

No. 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart. 



March 25. — Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed. 




March 25. — Sow Radish seed. 




March 25. — Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed. 





The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the inter- 
mediate ground for the other plants. 

10 



110 PLAN OP BEDS, ETC. 

No. 2. Drills ten inches apart. 



April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. 



April 16. — Plant early Cabbage Plants. 



April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. 

By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground, 
the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered. 

If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle 
of July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnip, or Black 
Radish seed. If the Cabbage be of the late-heading kinds, 
the ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach, 
Fetticus, Lettuce, &c., in which case it will require a fresh 
coat of manure 



No. 3. Drills twelve inches apart. 



March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish. 



March 20. — Plant Turnip-rooted Beet seed. 



March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish. 

If required, a light crop of Radishes may be raised on 
this bed, which should be pulled while young. 

Hoe and thin out the Beets as they progress in growth, and 
when full grown, they may be gathered, without disturbing 
the Horse-radish. [See article Horse-radish.] 



PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. Ill 

No. 4. Rows, or drills, fourteen inches apart. 

March 20. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. 



March 20. — Pant hardy Lettuce plants. 



Hoe them the first week in April ; previous to hoeing the 
second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and 
plant Beet or Carrot seed; this may be covered up in hoe- 
ing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong, 
the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended 
to, they may be cleared off soon enough to produce fall Cab- 
bage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c. 

No. 5. Rows, or drills, sixteen inches apart. 

March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. 



March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. 



April 20. — Plant Early York Cabbage plants, either between the rows or 
between the Lettuce. 

As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and it wall 
soon cover the ground. 

This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the va- 
rieties above mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of which 
are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted with 
Cabbage twice in succession. 

The above, or preceding plans, present a fair specimen of 
what may be done on a small piece of good ground. If the 



112 ■ • HOT-BEDS. 

young gardener takes the trouble to keep an account of his 
transactions, he will soon make discoveries of still greater 
importance. If not sufficiently acquainted with the different 
varieties of Cabbage plants, for instance, so as to distinguish 
the one from the other, by making a memorandum at the 
time of sowing the seed, will soon get acquainted with the 
different varieties of plants ; he will also discover the differ- 
ence in the growing of his seed, and know who to blame if 
any particular kind should not come up. 



The following represents a Hot-bed vnth four sashes, sown 
March 1 : 



Early Dwarf, 


Early Battersea, 


Early Lettuce, 


Egg-plant 


Early York, 


Drumhead, or 


Tomato Seed, 
Peppers, 


Seed, &c, 
partitioned off 


or other spring 


other summer 


&c. in shallow 


as directed in 
note to article 


Cabbage Seed. 


Cabbage Seed. 


drUls. 


Egg-plant. 



It may be necessary to remind my readers of the neces- 
sity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Lettuce, To- 
mato, and Egg-plant seed in hot-beds the last week in Feb- 
ruary, or early in March ; for this purpose, let some fresh 
stable dung and rich compost be engaged beforehand. Some 
gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it is 
always safest to make them in pits from eighteen inches to 
two feet deep;* in order to do this, the pits should be dug 

* When durable heat is required for forcing vegetables, the beds should 
be made on level ground, in order that linings may be applied to the out- 
side of the frame, which, by frequent renewal, will enliven the heat of the 
bed, and thus bring tender vegetables to maturity, which would otherwise 
suffer from a decline of the heat. For particular directions, see Observa- 
tions on Forcing Vegetables ; also, article on Forcing Asparagus. 



HOT-BEDS. 113 

in autximn, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the 
ground intended for the beds before the frost sets in, and 
good earth may be obtained from the pits without any diffi- 
culty. 

The frames should be made of good sound planks ; the 
back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones may be 
60 sloped as to make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front. 
A frame calculated for four sashes, of three feet in width by 
six in length, as above described, should be nearly thirteen 
feet long, and about six broad at the top. 

The frame being set over the pit, and properly fastened, 
the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pit to the 
depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; if the dung be in a 
good heating condition, cover it six or eight inches deep 
with mould, then lay on the sashes, and protect the beds 
from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days 
the rank steam will pass off; it will then be necessary to stir 
the mould before the seed be sown, to prevent the growth 
of young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the 
seed either in shallow drills or broad-cast, as equally as pos- 
sible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to be 
sown lightly over the seed. The beds should afterward 
be attended to, as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower. 
This description of a hot-bed is intended expressly for the 
raising of Spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such 
other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds 
made earlier in the season, or for foicing, will require a 
greater quantity of manure, [See Calendar for January, 
February, and March.] 



10* 



114 



OBSERVATIONS 



FORCING VEGETABLES, 



Before I commenced preparing this work for the press, 
I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing 
fruits as well as vegetables ; but when I considered my 
motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I con- 
cluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect the 
greatest possible good at the smallest expense. Of the seve- 
ral branches of Horticulture, some are of greater importance 
than others ; and as the products of the kitchen garden form 
important articles of food for the bulk of mankind, it should 
be our first care to treat largely on the subject of this most 
useful part of gardening. Next to this is the cultivation of 
fruits, and the production of ornamental plants and flowers, 
each of which will be noticed in their respective departments. 

As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on forcing, or 
rather forwarding vegetables, by artificial means, 1 shall en- 
deavour to confine my observations to such points as are of 
primary importance ; and in order to convince my readers 
of the importance of this subject, I shall first endeavour to 
show the utility of an artificial climate suited to the various 
species of useful plants. In England, a regular succession 
of vegetables can be obtained from the natural ground every 
month in the year, and the fruits of that country, from the 
summer heat being moderate, are of longer continuance 
than with us, and yet the English make gardening a science, 
and employ the elements, as well as the ingenuity of man, 
in the production of fruits and vegetables out of the ordinary 



ON FORCING VEGETABLES. 115 

I shall not attempt to treat of the cultivation of Pine- 
apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grovi^n in forcing- 
houses ; nor would it be advisable v\^ith us to undertake to 
raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c., in frames throughout the se- 
vere winters of our Northern States ; but it must be acknow- 
ledged, that the extreme heat of our summers is as detri- 
mental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable kinds 
of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our winters, and 
for these reasons, artificial aid is more necessary here in the 
winter and spring of the year than in England. The inhabi- 
tants of that country obtain a supply of the different varieties 
of Artichokes, Broad Beans, Borecole, Broccoli, Cauliflower, 
Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Turnips, and 
salads in general, a great part of the year from their kitchen 
gardens, whereas, if %ve were to attempt to supply our mar- 
kets with culinary vegetables at all times, in any thing like 
the abundance that they have them there, we must, out of the 
ordinary season for gardening operations, turn our attention to 
the protecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing system. 

Before I proceed to show the method of forcing vegeta- 
bles, it may be necessary for me to remind my readers, that 
in providing an artificial climate, they should consider the 
nature of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour 
to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish 
and support them. I have, in another part of this work, 
endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air, and moisture, are 
each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup- 
plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances. 

In the midst of our Northern winter, which is the usual 
time for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west 
winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have 
not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, it will not 
be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom heat under any 
kind of vegetable, until such times as he can impart a tole- 
rable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air will 
soon destroy the fruits of his labour. 



116 ■ ON FORCING VEGETABLES. 

Perhaps the safest time to commence foi cing in frames, 
is soon after the middle of February, and the early part of 
March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials 
must be regulated by the season of the year at which the 
work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which the 
hot-beds are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising 
half-hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in the 
spring, may be made in the manner recommended for the 
common hot-bed ; but if substantial heat is required to be 
kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings 
as the heat decreases ; and the dung should undergo a regu- 
lar process of preparation, according to the use it is intended 
for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in order to 
furnish suitable mould to the different species of plants ; for 
this purpose, all the old hot-bed dung and mould, leaves, tan, 
turf, sand, and other light manures and decayed animal dung, 
should be collected together. 

In some cases, when a slight hot-bed is recommended for 
forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling 
Cucumber bed be at libeity, it may answer every purpose 
for Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants ; or such a bed 
may be spawned for Mushroons, if required. 

If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of the 
winter is past, great precaution must be used, lest the plants 
be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed by heat for 
want of air. To prevent the former accident, warm dung 
should be placed around the frames, and the sashes covered 
with mats and boards every night. If full air cannot be ad- 
mitted in the day time, the sashes must be slidden down to 
let off the steam ; at the same time mats may be laid over 
the aperture, to prevent cold air entering to the plants. 

If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is some- 
times the case, means must be used to decrease it. This is 
genei'ally effected by making holes in the bed with a stake 
sharpened at the end, or with a crow-bar ; which holes should 
be filled up when the heat is sufficiently reduced. In lining 



FORCING ASPARAGUS. 117 

hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the beds, holes 
may be carefully made to admit heat from the fresh linings, 
so as to enliven the heat of the bed. 

A Fahrenheit thermometer should always be at hand at 
the time of forcing, to be used, when necessary, to regulate 
the heat in the beds ; and the water that is used in cultiva- 
ting plants in frames, should be warmed to the temperature 
of the air, or according to the heat required for the various 
kinds of plants, which will be shovra in the annexed articles. 



FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-BEDS. 

As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme 
bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less 
trouble, in flued pits in a hot-house, than in dung hot-beds, 
because the heat from tan is more regular ; but a very suita- 
ble bed may be formed in a deep hot-bed frame, made in the 
usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and leaves, 
be used, it should be in a state past heating violently before 
it is made into a bed ; but if the gardener has no choice of 
materials, he may make his hot-bed in the usual way, and if 
the depth of heating materials be two feet, he may lay on a 
foot of old hot-bed dung, tan, or any light compost, that will 
admit of the heat passing through it. 

It may be necessary to state farther, that though too much 
bottom heat should be avoided, heat is necessary to the pro- 
duction of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is gene- 
rally effected in a month or six weeks after the commence- 
ment of the operations. For the purpose of keeping up a 
regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied around 
the frame, and changed as occasion requires. 

Provide plants from two to four, or even six years old, 
trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds ; when 
one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then 
proceed in the same way with one row after another, keep- 



118 FORCING ASPARAGUS. 

ing them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first lay, 
till you have finished planting them ; then lay among the 
buds and roots some fine vegetable or other rich mould, w^ork 
it in among them with yoixr fingers, and cover the beds over 
about an inch thick; and upon that, lay three inches in 
depth of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan, or any 
other light compost that will admit the water to run quickly 
through. 

If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down the sashea 
till it begins to decline. The temperature at night should 
never be under 50°, and it may rise to 65° without injury ; 
when the buds begin to appear, as much air must be daily 
admitted as the weather will permit. In two or three days 
after the beds are planted, the heat will begin to rise : the 
beds should then have a moderate supply of water, applied 
from a watering-pot with the the rose on ; repeat such 
watering every three or four days. 

When the buds are up three inches above the surface, 
they are fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven 
inches in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of 
the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, and twist them 
off" from the crown : this is a better method than to cut them ; 
at least, it is less dangerous to the rising buds, which come 
up thick in succession. 

An ordinary-sized frame calculated for three sashes will 
hold from three to five hundred plants, according to their age 
and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a dish every 
day for about three weeks. On the above estimate, if a con- 
stant succession of Asparagus be required, it will be neces- 
sary to plant a bed every eighteen or twenty days. 

Rhubarb and Sea-Kale may be, and sometimes are, forced 
in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the most general 
mode is to excite them where they stand in the open garden, 
by the application of warm dung. 



FORWARDING CEANS. 119 

FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR ENGLISH 
DWARFS. 

In the article Broad Beans, {Vicia faha,) I have ahready 
urged the necessity of early planting, in order that a full 
crop may be insured before the approach of warm weather ; 
but as the ground is often frozen at the time they ought to 
be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes, 
and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or early in 
March. If the plants thus raised be not made too tender, 
they may be ti'ansplanted into the open ground the latter end 
of March ; this will enable them to produce their fruit early 
in June. 

Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of 
ground late in autumn, it will keep the earth from freezing ; 
and if this manure be removed in February, and a frame 
placed over the spot and protected from extreme cold, the 
seedlings may be raised therein, and ti'ansplanted into the 
garden, as directed in article, page 39. 

Those who have not the convenience of hot-beds or frames, 
may, in the month of February, plant some of the seed about 
two inches deep in boxes kept in the cellar, or in earth on 
the floor, which will produce plants fit to transplant in the 
open garden toward the latter end of March or early in April. 



FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. 

The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be raised 
in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat to mature 
them. The temperature vdthin the frames should be kept 
up to 60% and may rise to 70° or 75°, provided the steam be 
let off. In order to insure sufficient heat to bring them into 
a bearing state, the plants may be first raised in small pots 
plunged into a hot-bed, or a small bed may be prepared, 



120 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. 

earthed over with light rich compost, six inches deep, and 
the Beans jolanted therein, and covered one inch. 

The second hot-bed should be earthed over to the depth 
of eight or nine inches, and the Beans transplanted as soon 
as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows twelve 
or fifteen inches apart, by three or four inches in the rows, 
or in clumps a foot apart. When the season is so far advanced 
that one bed, with the help of linings, will bring the plants 
well into fruit, the seed may be planted at once to remain 
for podding ; or if the gardener should choose to mature his 
crop in the open ground, he may raise his plants in boxes or 
pots in the month of April, and plant them out in a warm 
border early in May. 

Beans raised in hot-beds will require considerable atten- 
tion. Cover the glasses every night with mats and boards ; 
admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle water- 
ings, and earth them up carefully as they progress in growth, 
to strengthen them. 



FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. 

In treating of the method of cultivating this family of 
plants, in the articles under each head, I recommended an 
artificial climate to be provided for them, so as to induce 
them to arrive at full perfection in the, winter and early part 
of the spring. Gardeners who have provided frames for the 
purpose of making hot-beds, in the spring, may make use 
of them through the winter, in protecting Broccoli and Cau- 
liflower ; and as the frames will not be wanted until the se- 
verity of the winter is past, such plants as are left at that 
season may be protected by a covering of boards, straw, or 
litter, as occasion may require. 

If Cauliflower be required early in the summer, the plants 
raised in the preceding autumn should be transplanted from 
the beds into the open ground, in the month of March, and 



FORCING CUCUMBERS. 121 

be protected by hand glasses. This would insure their heading 
before the approach of extreme warm weather, which is 
very injurious to Cauliflower. 



FORCING CUCUMBERS. 

To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an 
object of emulation with every gardener. The business of 
forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks 
before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should 
be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short 
Pi-ickly, others the Long Green and White Spined ; and seed 
two or three years old is generally prefeiTed, as it is not so apt 
to run to vines. 

The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich 
mould, and placed in a hot-bed ; and some sow the seed in 
the eaith of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In either 
case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their two 
seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots, putting 
three plants in each pot ; when this is done, apply water 
warmed to the temperature of the bed, and shut down the 
^lasses, keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over 
the glass, till the plants have taken root. When they are 
about a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruit- 
ing bed. 

To prepare the dung properly, is of the greatest impor- 
tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is 
made into a bed, it cannot be done afterward, as it requires 
turning and managing to cause it to ferment freely and 
sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable should be laid in a heap, 
turned three times, and well mixed with a fork ; if any ap- 
pears, dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it between 
the two extremes of wet and dry, that the whole may have 
a regular fermentation. 

A dry situation should be chosen on which to form beds, 
11 



122 FORCING CUCUMBERS. 

SO that no water can settle under the dung. Tne substance 
of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from three to 
four feet, according to the season of planting, and the mould 
should be laid on as soon as the bed is settled, and has a 
lively, regular-tempered heat. Lay the earth evenly over 
the dung, about six inches deep ; after it has lain a few days 
examine it, and if no traces of a burning effect are disco- 
vered , by the mould turning of a whitish colour and caking, 
it will be fit to receive the plants ; but if the earth appears 
burned, or has a rank smell, some fresh sweet mould should 
be provided for the hills, and placed in the frame to get 
wann ; at the saine time, vacancies should be made to give 
vent to the steam, by running down stakes. 

After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and 
the heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth 
formed into hills ; raise one hill in the centre under each 
sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of 
the glass ; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out 
such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their 
roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid- 
dle of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered 
with water heated to the temperature of the bed, and kept 
shaded till they have taken root. 

The temperature should be kept up to 60°, and may rise 
to 80° without injury, provided the rank steam be allowed 
to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely 
linings of well-prepared dung must be applied all round the 
frame. Begin by lining the back part first ; cut away the 
old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two 
feel broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of the 
frames ; as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings round the 
remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be care- 
ful to let off the steam, and give air to the plants at all op- 
portunities. 

Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild 
day, in early forcing ; and in the afternoon, in the advanced 



FORCING CUCUMBERS. 123 

season of hot sunny weather. Some use water impregnated 
with sheep or pigeon dung. As the roots begin to spread, 
and the vines to run, the hills should be enlarged by gather- 
ing up the earth around them, for which purpose a supply 
of good mould should be kept ready at hand, to be used as 
required. 

Wlien the plants have made one or two joints, stop them, 
by pinching off the tops, after which they generally put forth 
two shoots, each of which let run till they have made one or 
two clear joints, and then stop them also ; and afterward con- 
tinue throughout the season to stop them at every joint; this 
will strengthen the plants, and promote their perfecting the 
fruit early. 

The following artificial operation is recommended by 
Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the 
production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In 
plants more freely exposed to the open air, the impregnation 
is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms 
are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this operation. 

"The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, "bears male 
and feinale blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The lat- 
ter only produce the fruit, which appears first in miniature, 
close under the base, even before the flower expands. There 
is never any in the males ; but these are placed in the vici- 
nity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the dis- 
persion of their farina, to impregnate the female blossom ; 
the fruit of which will not otherwise swell to its full size, 
and the seed will be abortive. The early plants under glass, 
not having the full current of natural air, nor the assistance 
of bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, the 
artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to effect the im- 
pregnation. At the time of fructification, watch the plants 
daily; and as soon as the female flowers and some male 
blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the fruit the 
same day, or next morning at farthest. Take off a male 
blossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this 



124 FORWARDING LETTUCE. 

between the finger and thumb ; pull away the flower leaves, 
or petals, close to the stamens and antherae, or central part, 
which apply close to the pistil in the bosom of the female 
flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon some 
particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus to set 
every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, while of a lively 
full expansion ; and generally perform it in the early part of 
the day, using a fresh male, if possible, for every impregna- 
tion, as the males are usually more abundant than the female 
blossoms. By this management, the young fruit will soon be 
observed to swell freely." 

Cucumbers attain the proper size for gathering in from 
fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting ; and often 
in succession for two or three months or more, in the same 
beds, by good culture. 



FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND 

GLASSES. 

If it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at 
an early season, the plants may be raised in pots as before 
directed, and planted in a warm border either in the earth, 
or in hot-bed ridges. A hand-glass should be provided for 
each hill, which must be kept close down every night and in 
cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The 
plants may be hardened by degrees, by taking off" the glass 
in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they 
may be left to nature. 



FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER. 

Head Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the winter 
season by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made 
in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cabbage 



PORCTXG MUSHROOMS. 125 

plants, &c. (See article Cabbage.) For such Head Lettuce 
as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the Hardy Green, 
the Loco Foco, and Coss, are the most suitable kinds to 
sow ; and plants may be raised in the open border by sow- 
ing seed two or three times between the middle of August 
and the first week in September. The plants from these 
sowings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold-beds, 
when they are one or two inches high. 

In September and early in October, some of the Silesia, 
Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts, 
may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of 
sashes, will produce plants in from a month to six weeks ; 
these being planted in gentle hot-beds in November and 
December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sup- 
ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same at- 
tention is necessary, as respects the protection of these beds, 
as for other half-hardy plants. 



FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS. 

The Agaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in 
the vegetable Icingdom. The species are determined upon 
various principles. As some of the kinds are poisonous, it 
is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon 
says, it is most readily distinguished when of a middle size, 
by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. 
In a more advanced age, the gills become of a chocolate 
colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other 
kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most nearly 
resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine odour, 
and has a disagreeable smell. 

Again : the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true 
Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should 
be gathered only in such places. 

Unwholesome /»/ig-i will sometimes spring up on artificial 
11* 



126 FORCING MUSHROOMS. 

beds in gardens ; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a 
spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine 
Mushrooms. The poisonous toad-stoul, Jlgaricus cirocus, 
may generally be detected by the presence of a sickly, nau- 
seous smell, though some hurtful kinds are so free from any 
thing disagreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion, . 
drawn from that alone, very imsafe. The wholesome kinds, 
however, invariably emit a grateful, rich odour. The .Jiga- 
ricus campeslris is most generally cultivated. Dr. Withering 
mentions other eatable varieties, which grow considerably 
larger, but are inferior in flavour ; he says " that a plant of 
the variety Georgia was gathered in an old hot-bed at Bir- 
mingham, which weighed fourteen pounds ; and Mr. Stack- 
house found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having a 
stem as thick as a man's wrist." 

Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the yeai% 
by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming 
the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without ma- 
king a bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn into 
the top mould of old hot-beds. 

The methods of procuring and propagating spawn, and 
of forming Mushroom beds, are numerous. Indigenous 
spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and 
October, or it may be found in its strength and purity in the 
paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-walks 
under shelter; it is frequently found in old hot-beds and 
dunghills in the summer season, and Mushrooms of good 
quality may often be seen beginning to form on the surface, 
like large peas ; when these ai'e absorbed, it is time to take 
out the spawn, which is generally in hard, dry lumps of dung, 
the spawn having the appearance of whitish coarse pieces 
of thread. The true sort has exactly the smell of a Mush' 
room. If spawn thus collected be required for immediate 
use, it may be planted in the beds at once, or it will keep 
three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to 
it, and afterward placed in a warm, dry shed, where there 



FORCING MUSHROOMS. il'7 

is a current of air ; but if it be not completely dried, the 
spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear the 
extremes of heat, cold, or moisture. 

Such of my readers as may have hitherto been unac- 
quainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must perceive, 
from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is simply 
a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to be ca- 
pable of producing and preserving spawn ; but in order to 
have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as 
to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh 
horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collecte'd ; 
add to this one third of cow dung, and a small portion of 
good earth, to cement it together; mash the whole into a 
thin compost, like grafting clay ; then foim it in the shape 
of bricks ; which being done, set them on edge, and frequent- 
ly turn them until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or 
two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of 
spawn the size of an egg : the bricks should then be laid 
where they can dry gradually. Wlien dry, lay dry horse 

dung on a If^vpl flooi', eiir r\i- oijjlif inf'liea tLiclc ; on this, pile 

the bricks, the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is 
snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of fresh warm 
horse dung, sufficient in quantity to produce a gentle glow 
through the whole. When the spawn has spread itself 
through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and 
they may be laid up in any dry place for use. Mushroom 
spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its ve- 
getating powei's for many years, if well dried before it is laid 
up ; if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. 

Mushroom beds ai'e often formed in ridges in the open 
air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy 
rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of the 
same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-houses. 
They are also made in close sheds behind hot-houses, or in 
houses built on purpose, called Mushroom-houses. A mo- 
derately warm, light cellar is peculiarly suited for the pur- 



128 FORCING MUSHROOMS. 

pose in tlie winter season, as no fire is necessary, and but 
little water, the application of which frequently proves inju- 
rious, when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may also 
be raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &c., placed in warm situa- 
tions ; in old-beds, in pits with glazed frames, and in dark 
frames or pits. 

The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare 
a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, about a yard 
in thickness, more or less, according to the size and situa- 
tion in which the bed is to be formed ; when the strong heat 
has subsided, an inch of good mould may be laid over it, 
and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six inches 
apart ; after this is done, another layer of mould, an inch 
thick, may be added, and then a coat of straw. Beds well 
constructed will produce Mushrooms in five or six weeks, 
and will continue to produce for several months, if care be 
taken in gathering, not to destroy the young ones. As 
Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, the straw should 
be spread carefully over the bed. 

Bods mad-o in a convomont plaoo, xvliovo tnprP'. is Rpar.P. all 

around, may be formed so as to make four sloping surfaces, 
similar to the roof of a house ; this, by being spawned on 
the four sides, will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mr. 
Nichol makes his beds without spawn. The following are 
his directions, taken from Loudon's Encyclopoedia of Gar- 
dening : 

" After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel, 
or brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry and free from 
under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick. 
These should be new from the stables, and must not be 
broken, and the drier the better. They may be collected 
every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the 
above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment 
or heat. In the whole process of making up, the bed should 
bo as much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be 
carefully defended from wet, if out of doors. When this 



FORCING MUSHROOMS. 129 

•course is quite dry, and judged to be past a state of fennen- 
tation, cover it to the thickness of two inches with light, dry 
earth ; if sandy, so much the better. It is immaterial whe- 
ther it be rich or not, the only use of earth here being for 
spawn to run and mass in. Now lay another course of drop- 
pings, and earth them over as above, when past a state of 
fermentation : then a third course, which, in like manner, 
earth all over. This finishes the bed, which will be a very 
strong and productive one, if properly managed afterward. 

" Observe, that in forming the bed, it should be a little 
rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet or 
moist than the sides. This may be done in forming the sole 
or floor at first, and the bed would then be of equal strength 
in all parts. If it be made up against a wall in a cellar, 
stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a few inches from the 
back to the front, less or more, according to its breadth. I 
have sometimes been contented with two courses as above, 
instead of three ; and often, when materials were scarce, 
have made them up slighter, thus : three four-inch courses 
of droppings, mth one inch of earth between each, and a 
two-inch covering at top. Such a bed as this, I have had 
produce for ten or twelve months together ; but very much 
depends on the state of the materials, and on the care taken 
in making it up, also on the after management. 

" The droppings of hard-fed horses only are useful. Those 
of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce 
few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm 
horses, fed partly on hard and partly on green food, and 
from carriage or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay; 
treated them in the same way in every respect ; and have 
found, not once, but always, those made from the latter most 
productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be pro- 
cured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the coun- 
try, any time of the year ; and if the supply be plentiful, a 
bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished 
vdthiii five or six weeks. In as many more weeks, if in a 



130 FORCING MUSHROOMS. 

Stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce, 
and often sooner ; but if the situation of the bed be cold, it 
will sometimes be two or three months in producing Mush- 
rooms." 

It may be necessary to state farther, that extremes of heat, 
cold, drought, and moisture, should be avoided in the culti- 
vation of Mushrooms. If the temperature keeps up to 50° in 
the winter, the beds will be safe, and the heat in the beds 
may rise to 60° or even 70° without injury. Air also must 
be admitted in proportion to the heat, and 60° should be 
aimed at as a medium temperature. "Water, when given a 
little at a time, is better than too much at once, after the 
spawn has begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose 
should always be made blood warm. A light covering of 
straw may be used to preserve moisture on the surface ; and 
if the beds are made in open frames, or otherwise subject to 
exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on beds made 
in a cellar. 

Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms after having 
been kept ovei hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn 
is injured or destroyed ; but if, on the contrary, a bed that 
has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to 
be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with 
warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the 
whole. If this does not enliven the bed after having lain a 
month, take off the earth ; and if, on examination, there is 
no appearance of spawn, the whole may be destroyed ; but 
if, on the contrary, the bed should contain spawn, it may be 
renovated by covering it again, especially if any small tuber- 
cles be discernible ; if the heat should have" declined, the 
spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If beds 
be formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or straw- 
must be laid over the glass to break off the intense heat of 
the sun. 

Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been 
introduced into the garden, there are several eatable kinds. 



FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 131 

In Poland and Russia theie are above thirty kinds in com- 
mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at diffe- 
rent stages of their growth, and used in various ways : raw, 
boiled, stewed, roasted ; and being hung up, and dried in 
their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their winter stock 
of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collecting 
Mushrooms for food, and none but the botanist should gather 
any but the kinds we have described.* Physicians say, 
" That all the edible species should be thoroughly masticated 
before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens 
the effect of poisons. When accidents of the sort happen, 
vomiting should be immediately excited, and then the vege- 
table acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon juice, or 
that of apples ; after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic 
remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infusions of gall- 
nut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recommended as capa- 
ble of neutralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms." 
It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the well- 
known kinds. 



FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 

Although our citizens have an opportunity of procuring 
Melons without artificial aid, yet, as their continuance is short, 
it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc- 
tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass vvdll 
apply to Melons, -with very few exceptions ; care, however, 
must be taken that they be kept away from each other at the 
time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops 
being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus being 



, * In order to ascprtain whether what appear to be Mushrooms are of the 
true edible kinds, sprinkle a little salt over the inner or spongy part ; if, in 
a short time after, tliey turn ) ellow, they are unwholesome ; but if black, 
they m;iy be considered as genuine Mu.shrooms. 



1^2 POnciNG PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. 

raised too near each other. Those who wish to forward 
Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to raise 
plants in ; the beds may be formed and the plants managed 
in precisely the same manner as is directed for Cucumbers. 
If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-glass applied 
to each hill, Melons may be obtained one month earlier than 
the usual time. 

Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets, 
may gratify the public taste early in the season, by pursuing 
the forwarding, if not the forcing system. Ridges may be 
prepared in the following manner : In April or May, a trench 
may be dug in a warm border, about two feet deep and 
three wide, and of sufficient length for as many hand-glasses 
as are intended to be employed, allowing three feet for every 
hill. Some good heating manure should be laid in the pits, 
managed the same as a common hot-bed ; to this must be 
added good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches 
for the plants to grow in ; as soon as the mould is warm, the 
seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, after 
which the hand-glasses should be set on, and shaded. After 
the plants have taken root and began to grow, the glasses 
should be raised in fine days, and propped up so as to admit 
fresh air ; and as the warm weather progresses, they may be 
taken off in the middle of fine days so as to harden the 
plants gradually to the weather ; and by the latter end of 
May they may be left to nature. 



FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. 

The best kinds of Peas to force, are those that are the 
most dwarfish, and the seed is better for being two or three 
years old, as they will bear earlier, and make less straw. 
Peas run less to vine by being transplanted, than when they 
are sown where they are to remain ; the plants may be raised 
in a gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots 



FORCING POTATOES. 133 

or boxes. They do not require excessive heat ; the tempe- 
rature must be progressive ; beginning at about 50^ for the 
nursery-bed, and from that to 60^ or 65° for fruiting. 

When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, they 
may be transplanted into rows from twelve to eighteen inches 
apart ; observe, the earth in the fruiting bed should be from 
twelve to eighteen inches in depth. 

As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be stir- 
red ; and when six inches high, small sticks may be applied, 
so that the tendrills of the Peas may easily take hold ; and 
they should be moulded at the bottom to enable them to sup- 
port themselves. 

When they are in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly 
promotes the forming and filling of the pods ; they will re- 
quire to be regularly watered, and as the spring advances 
they may be exposed to the weather, taking care to shelter 
them in the event of a sudden change. 



FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. 

Potatoes may be forced in a great variety of ways. Those 
who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will of course 
provide such of the earliest kinds as are not inclined to pro- 
duce large tops ; the Broughton Dwarf, Early Mule, Nonpa- 
reil, the Oak, and the Ash-leaved, are of this description. 

Potatoes may be forwarded in gi owth previous to being 
planted in the beds, by placing them in a warm, damp cellar. 
Some forward them in pots and boxes, and afterward mature 
them in a hot-bed ; others plant them in the bed at once, in 
which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to twenty 
inches deep, and the heating materials should be sufiicient 
to keep up a moderate heat for two or three months. 

] 'erhaps the most convenient way to force Potatoes in this 
climate, is to provide pots for the purpose ; plant one set in 
each pot in January, and set them in a warm cellar, till a bed 

12 



134 FORWARDING RADISHES, ETC. 

can be prepared in February, in which put the pots. While 
the tuberous roots are forming, and before they fill the pots, 
prepare the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in 
the mould with the balls of earth attached to them; 

The beds should be kept free from frost, and air should 
be given at every opportunity. The common round Potatoes 
may be forwarded, by laying them thick together in a slight 
hot-bed in March, and when they are planted in the borders, 
a quantity of comb-maker's shavings may be deposited in 
each hill ; this will greatly promote their growth. 



FORWARDING RADISHES, &c. 

Radishes may be obtained early in the spring by means 
of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame should be 
a foot in depth, and air should be admitted every day after 
they are up, or they will incline more to tops than roots. If 
they come up too thick, they should be thinned to one or 
two inches apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion re- 
quires, and keep them well covered in cold nights. 

For raising early Radishes without frames, hot-beds may 
be made in ridges, and arched over with hoop bends, or 
pliant rods, which should be covered with mats at night, and 
during the day in very cold weather. In moderate days, 
turn up the mats at the warmest side ; and on fine mild days, 
take them wholly off, and harden the plants gradually to the 
weather. 

Turnips, Cairots, Onions, or any kind of salads or pot 
herbs, may be raised in the same way, by sowing the seed in 
drills and keeping the ground clear of weeds. 



FORWAnniJVG RHUBARB. 135 

FORWARDING RHUBARB. 

Those who may desire to have this excellent substitute for 
fruit at an early season, may procure it without much trouble. 
It is customary with some persons in the southern parts of 
England, to keep this plant growing in their kitchens, so that 
they may have it for use at any time. They have strong 
neat boxes, made for the purpose, about three feet deep and 
two wide, and in length according to the demand, from four 
to eight feet; these being kept clean, have the appearance 
of flour-bins, and they are sometimes so contrived as to have 
shelves over them in imitation of a kitchen dresser. The 
plants being taken up out of the garden towards winter, are 
placed as close at the bottom of the box as they can be, with 
their crowns level : and sojiie sand being thrown over, suf- 
ficient to fill up the interstices, and to cover the crowns 
about half an inqh, finishes the operation. No farther 
trouble is necessary, except to give a little water, just to keep 
the roots moist, as they need no light at all ; and if the roots 
be planted in the garden when spring opens, they will, after 
having taken root, vegetate as strongly as before they were 
removed. 

Roots of Rhubarb taken up in the autumn, packed in sand, 
and deposited in a warm cellar, will produce stalks earlier 
than if kept in the garden ; and if placed in hot-beds they 
will yield abundantly, and that at a very early season. 

The consumption of this plant in the British metropolis 
may be judged of by the following extract from the London 
Gardener's Magazine : " Rhubarb, which has for some years 
been cultivated, is still a subject of increasing interest, and 
more extensively in demand than ever. On the fifth of May, 
no less than eight wagon loads, each weighing at least a ton, 
with an equal quantity in smaller proportions, were sold in 
Covent Garden market alone. One cultivator, Mr. Myatt, 
of New Cross, Deptford, had three wagon loads ; he has, I 
believe, nearly twenty acres of it under culture." This plant 



136 FORWARDING TOMATOES. 

contains an acid as fine as the Gooseberry, for pies and tarts ; 
a square rod of ground will supply a family ; and it may be 
used till midsummer or later. [For fuller explanations, see 
article Rhubarb.] 



FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL PLANTS, 

&c. 

For the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other salad 
herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., in small quanti- 
ties, a hot-bed may be made, early in the spring, of good 
heating materials, on the top of which may be laid leaf mould, 
old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about nine inches. 
The various kinds of seed may be sown in boxes or flower- 
pots, and plunged in the top mould up to their rims, and by 
being well attended to, a supply of small salads, as well as 
small seedling plants, may be raised without much labour or 
difficulty. This method is also well calculated for raising 
annual flower plants at an early season. 



FORWARDING TOMATOES. 

As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late 
years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to 
observe, that plants raised from seed sown in hot-beds the lat- 
ter end of February, or early in March, as directed in former 
pages, will grow to the length of four inches and upward by 
the first of April, which is one month earlier than they can 
with safety be trusted in the open garden. If a few of these 
be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted into flower-pots, 
they may be kept growing therein until settled warm weather, 
and then turned out and deposited in the ground with the 
balls of earth entire ; or a fruiting-bed may be prepared by 
the first of April, in the manner recommended for Bush 



FORCINS VEGETABLES. 137 

Beans, Cucumbers, &c., and the plants inserted in the eurth 
at once ; these will produce ripe fruit a month or six weeks 
earlier than those cultivated in the ordinary way. 



FORCING VARIOUS KINDS OF VEGETABLES, 

The following simple method of forcing vegetables on a 
small scale is recommended by a correspondent of a London 
magazine : 

" Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple, though 
not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one 
foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of horse droppings, per- 
fectly dry ; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the 
boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must 
be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the 
boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together. 

" Four such boxes at w-ork are sufficient for a moderate 
demand ; and of a dozen, four brought in at a time, and 
placed upon a flue of a green-house stove, will produce a 
fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be 
covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, 
watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on 
the flue of a green-house ; a warm stable, cellar, or any other 
similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also con- 
venient for affording a plentiful stock of superior spawn. 

" The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus ; but 
for this purpose a sufficient stock of threo-year-old plants 
must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, four of which are the 
necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family. 
Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner's bark, leaf mould, 
or any similar mould ; on this, pack the roots as thickly as 
possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place 
in a forcing-house will suit them : on the flue, under the 
stage, or, in short, any place where they can enjoy the ne- 

12* 



138 FORCING VEGETABT.es. 

cessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and Mush- 
rooms, Sea-Kale, Buda-Kale, Angelica, small salad, as also 
various pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner." 

Those who hare not the conveniences recommended in a 
green-house, &c., may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The 
glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will soon 
promote the growth of the plants, and produce vegetable 
luxuries at a season when garden products in general are 
comparatively scarce. 

It is unnecessary to show of how much value such pro- 
cesses may be in minor establishments, or in a young country, 
I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful 
cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of, 
great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth. 
If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself 
we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of 
the garden. My directions are founded on the success 
attending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this 
country. I have also had sufficient experience to warrant 
me in this attempt to contribute my mite toward the attain- 
ment of this kind of useful knowledge. 



METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 139 

METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 
HouBLON. Humulus hipulus. 

Although the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, yet, as it 
is more or less used in every part of our country, it may not 
be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that, in pro- 
portion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our citizens 
will have recourse to beer as a vs^holesome beverage ; and as 
a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops are 
cured, I propose giving directions for their management 
throughout, so as to enable those wbo choose, to prepare 
their own. My information is collected chiefly from Loudon's 
Encyclopaedia of Plants. 

" The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknown 
length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving 
beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the reign 
of Henry the Eighth ; though indigenous both in Scotland 
and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries, owing to 
the humidity of their autumnal season. Like other plant.? 
of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ; 
the female plants, therefore, are alone cultivated. There 
are several varieties grown in Kent and SuiTey, under the 
name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, &c. ; the first is the 
most hardy, differing little from the Wild or Hedge Hop ; 
the Golding is an improved and highly productive variety, 
but more subject to blight than the other.* 

" The Hop prefers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a 
sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as 
to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be 
well pulverized and manured previous to planting. In Hop 
districts, the ground is generally trenched either with a 

* Besides these are the Karnham. or Golden (Jrape, which is cultivated 
for an early crop ; and for late picking, the Mayfield Grape, or Ruffler, is 
esteemed, which is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary, lest the 
varieties get mixed, as they will not ripen or dry equally, and consequently 
cannot be of one uniform colour and quality. 



140 METHOD OP CULTIVATING THE HOP. 

plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in rows 
six feet apart, and the same distance in the row. By some, 
five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular form, w^hich 
circles are distant five or six feet from each other. The 
plants or cuttings are procured from the most healthy of the 
old stools ; each should have two joints or buds : from the 
one which is placed in the ground springs the root, and from 
the other the stalk. Some plant the cuttings at once where 
they are to remain, and by others they are nursed a year in 
a garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbage is gene- 
rally taken the first year. Sometimes no poles are placed 
at the plants till the second year, and then only short ones 
of six or seven feet. The third year the Hop genea'ally 
comes into full bearing, and then from four to six poles, 
from fourteen to sixteen feet in length, are placed to each 
circle, or one pole to each plant, if cultivated in straight 
rows. The most durable timber for poles is that of the Span- 
ish Chesnut. 

" The after culture of the Hop consists in stirring the soil, 
and keejoing it free from weeds ; in guiding the shoots to the 
poles, and sometimes tying them for that purpose with basa 
or withered rushes ; in eradicating superfluous shoots which 
may rise from the root, and in raising a small heap of earth 
over the root to nourish the plant. 

" Hops are kiiown to be ready for gathering when the 
chaffy capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consist- 
ence. Each chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed. 
Befijre these are picked, the stalks are detached, and the 
poles pulled up, and placed horizontally on frames of wood, 
two or three poles at a time. The Hops are then picked off 
by women and children. After being carefully separated 
from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large 
cloth hung all round within the frame on tenter hooks. 
When the cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large 
sack, which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to 
be dried.. This is always to be done as soon as possible after 



METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 141 

they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable 
damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain 
long in the green state in which they are picked. In very 
warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state, 
they will often heat in five or six hours ; for this reason, the 
kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from the 
commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season. 

" The operation of drying Hops is not materially different 
from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same con- 
struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight 
to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet, 
or the Hops ripe or immature. When the ends of the Hop 
stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off 
the kiln, and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite 
cool, when they are put into bags. 

" The bagging of Hops is thus performed : in the floor of 
the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole 
or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After 
tying a handful of Hops in each of the lower corners of a 
large bag, which sen^e after for handles, the mouth of tho 
bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest 
on the edge of the hole or trap j and the bag itself being 
then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when 
a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in 
small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity 
of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When 
the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it 
will hold no more, it is drav\Ti up, unloosed from the hoop, 
and the end sewed up, two other handles having been pre- 
viously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned above. 
The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put into pockets 
or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging. 
The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and the 
latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are intended 
to be kept two or three years, they are put into bags of strong 
cloth, and firmly pressed so as to exclude the air. 



142 MEtliOt) OP CULttVATrNG THE liCP. 

" The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the 
operation of pickings The shoot or bind being stripped off, 
such poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a coni- 
cal pile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is 
formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from 
their tops, and their lower ends spread out. 

" The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as tbat 
of the Hop ; in good seasons an acre will produce 20 cwt., 
but from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop. 
The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or scarcity 
of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres to them, and 
by their bright yellow colour. The expenses of forming a 
Hop plantation are considerable ; but once in bearing, it will 
conlinue so for ten or fifteen years before it requires to be 
renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to diseases ; when 
young it is devoured by fleas of different kinds ; at a more 
advanced stage, it is attacked by the green fly, red spider; 
and ottermoth, the larvae of which prey even upon their roots; 
The honey-dew often materially injures the Hop crop ; and 
the naould, the fire-blast, and other blights, injure it at diflfer- 
ent times toward the latter period of the growth of the plant." 

It appears from an article in the ' Genesee Farmer,' that 
the culture of Hops is becoming an important branch of hus-- 
bandry in the State of New- York. A correspondent observes, 
that " as fine samples have been grown in Orange and Ma^ 
dison counties as in any part of the world. The Hop is con- 
sidered somewhat precarious ; but when the season is good, 
the ])rofit is very great. The average product may be stated 
at 700 lbs., though it has reached 1,600 lbs. to the acre ; a,nd 
in the latter case the expenses amounted to sixty dollars. 
The ordinary, or average price, may be stated at eighteen 
cents per pound. The profits on an ordinary crop, accord- 
ing to these assumed data, would be about seventy dollars to 
the acre. It often falls materially short of this, however, 
from the want of knowledge and care in gathering and dry- 
ing the crop. 



METHOD OP CULTIVATING THE HOP, 143 

" The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh- 
bouring towns on the Hudson, this year (1834), has been 
estimated at 2,300 bales, or 50,000 lbs., which, had not many 
of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would 
have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand 
dollars. But of the 2,300 bales there was not more than 
200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the 
denomination of first sorts. Many of them were picked too 
early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was 
sufficiently developed ; and others were scorched or smoked 
in curing. This carelessness has seriously affected the char- 
acter of our Hops abroad, and they are no longer purchased 
by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon form an im- 
portant article of export, if their character was raised by 
care in their culture and drying, and a rigid inspection." 

The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are 
considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently 
gathered in the spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus. The 
stalks and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a 
strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing which 
is described by Linnaeus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction 
of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsaparilla ; 
and the smell of the flowers is sopoinfic. A pillow filled with 
Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad effects 
of soporifics, which require to be taken internally. 



144 OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER, AS INFLU- 
ENCED BY CHANGES OF THE MOON. 

Lest the reader should judge, from my introducing this 
subject, that I am an advocate for moon-planting, in any 
other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the 
weather to the influence of that great luminary, I would here 
offer a few observations in reference to the practice and 
prejudices of many persons in choosing the first quarter of 
the moon for planting such vegetables as yield their produce 
above the surface, as Cabbage, &c., and the last quarter or 
wane of the moon for such as grow and yield their produce 
chiefly in the eartli, and below the surface, as Potatoes, &c. 
I would first observe, that if the moon has any direct in- 
fluence over vegetable productions, it must operate in many 
cases quite the reverse to what these theorists generally ex- 
pect ; for instance, if the earth and weather should happen 
to be dry in the first week after planting certain species of 
seed, such would fail to germinate, for want of its most 
essential nutriment, moisture; and in consequence of such 
seed lying dormant in the earth, until after another change of 
the moon, if that luminary influences the seed at all, in such 
case it must be contrary to the objects of the honest planter. 
As I deem this argument alone sufficient to shake the 
foundation of moon-planting, in the sense I have described, 
I shall at once submit to the reader's attention the following 
observations and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated 
Dr. Adain Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be taken 
to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not operate 
in all places alike. For example, in rainy seasons with us, 
the wind is generally east, northeast, or southeast, and cold 
weather is attended by a northwest wind. In England, where 
these calculations were made, it is in some respects different : 
" From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little 
farm, which I was taught to care for and cultivate ever since 
I was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 145 

sickle, or handle the spade ; and as I found that much of our 
euccess depended on a proper knowledge and management 
of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight 
years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science, 
and one of the first that is studied ; and that eveiy child in 
the country makes, untaght, some progress in it ; at least, so 
it was with me. I had actually learned, by silent obsei-va- 
tion, to form good conjectures concerning the coming weather, 
and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who were imper- 
fect, especially among those who had not been obliged, like 
me, to watch earnestly, that what was so necessary to the 
family siqyport should not be spoiled by the weather before 
it was housed. 

** Many a time, even in tender youth, I have watched the 
heavens with anxiety, examined the different appearances of 
the morning and evening sun, the phases of the moon, the 
scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds, 
the flight of the crow and swallow, the gambols of the colt, 
the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the 
eeamew, not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs. 
From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa- 
tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations in 
reference to the coming days, and was seldom much mistaken 
in my reckoning. 

" About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the 
work of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, pro- 
fesbing to perform prognostics of the weather, by the times 
of change, full, and quarters of the moon. T have carefully 
consulted this table for years, and was amazed at his general 
accuracy : for though long, as you have seen, engaged in the 
study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could be 
devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a little al- 
teration in the arrangements, illustrated it with further ob- 
servations, and have sent it to you that you may insert it, aS 
it has hitherto been confined generally to a few almanacs." 

13 



146 



TABLE AND OBSERVATIONS. 



A TABLE 

For telling the Weather through all the Lunations of each Year, for ever^ 

This table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many years' 
actual observation ; the whole being constructed on a due consideration of 
the attraction of the sun and moon, in their several positions respecting 
the earth, and will, by simple inspection, show tlie observer what kind of 
weather will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into any of its 
quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never found to fail. 



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147 
INTRODUCTION 

TO 

THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



The object of this Calendar is to assist the memory of 
the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may 
find employment in some of the departments of gardening 
in every month of the year. The figures refer to the pages 
in which farther directions may be found, relative to the 
operations adverted to. 

In page 30 it has been shown, that the directions accom- 
panying our Catalogue may be applied to all the climates of 
the United States, by a minute observance of the difference 
of temperature. 

It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of cul- 
tivation three months earlier in the remotest South, than in 
the coldest part of our Northern territory ; the Calendar, 
therefore, for March, maybe applied to the middle of Janu- 
ary in the warmest climates, and to the middle of April in 
the coldest ; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be 
taken in the Southern States after the three spring months, 
for the following reasons : 

1. As warm weather at the South is of longer continuance 
than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables 
denominated tender in the table, page 26, may be made in 
the open garden from March to August. 

2. Extreme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of 
many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, 
Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can 
only be cultivated in perfection in spring and autumn, the 
latter crops, therefore, should not be planted till August or 
September. [See note to article Broccoli, page 49 ; also 52, 
72, and 104.] 



148 MONTHLY CALENDAR, 

3. Many of the half-liardy class, as also those designated 
hardy in our table, may be cultivated throughout the winter 
months, by forwarding such as are required for early spring 
use, after the summer crops are taken off. [See table, expli- 
cation, &c., page 26 to 29 ; also page 115. 

In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, the annexed 
Calendar will answer in the order it stands, by applying the 
directions to the beginning of the first spring month in the 
warmest climates, and to the latter end in the coldest cli- 
mates, bearing in mind that where summer is short, the mam 
crops must follow the early in quick succession, with a view 
to their maturity before winter. 



JANUARY. 

" Prognostics foretoken most truly some things, 
Of summers, and autumns, and winters, and springs ; 
By them from the past we may all ascertain 
The future, respecting the winds and the rain." 

It is customary, at this season of the year, with all prudent 
men, to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the 
results of their industry throughout the past year, in order to 
make improved arrangements for the future. The mere 
gardener, having no complicated accounts to adjust, may 
occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not a book- 
reader, he should be a book-keeper, (see page 14,) and he 
should frequently take a survey of his former practises and 
those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on every 
thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults winters on 
Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured to 
do in preparing this little work for the press ; not adopt the 
mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in speculative ideas, 
nor even tread in the steps of others, but endeavour to erect 
his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foundation. In 
all his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow the example 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149 

of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures, or consult 
authors on the subject, he should do as every sensible man 
does at his daily meals, take that which suits him best, and 
leave the residue for others. If this little work should be 
considered worth an annual perusal, he may read the Gene- 
ral Remarks, in this month, (January,) and make a memo- 
randum of such things as may be obtained in moments of 
leisure, in preference to putting it off till it is wanted. I 
shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to 
the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall begin at the 
General Remarks, page 13, which suggest, that if a man has 
a garden to form, he will require fencing materials. If these 
should be already at hand, every gardener should provide 
manures, ingredients for the destruction of insects, drilling 
machines, and other tools ; poles or rods for the support of 
Peas, Beans, or other climbing plants he may intend to cul- 
tivate ; and if he intends to use hot-beds, or forcing-frames, 
he should make arrangements to get compost and heating 
materials, in time for the work to be performed in the next 
month. ]f he depends on this book for information, he may 
read the General Remarks, from page 13 to 30 ; and also 
from page 112 to 122, on Forcing Vegetables. 



FEBRUARY. 

"A cold, sour autumn, they sternly maintain, 
A long, severe winter will bring in its train ; 
If summer and autumn be both dry and warm, 
Calm opens the winter, it closes in storm." 

Although stern winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts 
its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment 
preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and 
planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most import- 
ant business at this season is to collect plenty of manure ; 
next to this, the gardenei-, who intends to raise early plants 

13* 



"150 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

for forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames 
are in good repair and ready for use ; he should also repair 
his sashes, and make straw mats with which to cover them. 
In preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds or 
forcing-pits, let it be kept secure from heavy falls of snow or 
rain, and frequently turned over preparatory to its being 
made into a bed. With a view to give all attention to cul- 
ture as the season advances, the gardener should look over 
his hardy fruit trees and hardy vines, and commence pruning 
them, by cutting off all dead and superfluous branches ; he 
may also clean trees from moss and canker, and search for 
the nests of insects, with a view to destroy them while in a 
torpid state, to prevent their spreading. If he has trellises, 
or any implement of husbandry out of repair, he should em- 
brace the most favourable opportunities of putting them in 
good condition, and of repairing his fences, &c. 

Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is well 
protected by a clf)se fence or wall, and not in any way con- 
nected with any building calculated to harbour rats, inice, 
moles, &c., which are very apt to take up their abode in 
warm duug, to the great injury, and sometimes the destruc- 
tion, of the beds. It is necessary that the foundation for the 
beds be dryly situated, and not liable to be inundated with 
water from melted snow, &c. When all is pi'epared as di- 
rected in pages 112 and 113, begin to sow Cabbage, Egg- 
plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seed, 112 ; force Asparagus, 117 ; 
Kidney Beans, 119; Cucumbers, 121; plant Peas, 132; 
Potatoes, 133 ; sow Radish seed, 134. In cold-beds, well 
protected, plant Broad Beans, 119; sow Cabbage seed, 54. 

After the seed is sown, the beds will require constant 
attention ; cover them up well in cold nights, and give air at 
all opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds, 
as directed under the different heads, from page 112 to 138. 
If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed in 
page 116 ; and if it should become necessary to let off" steam 
in cold weather, care must be taken to cover the appertures 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



l.Ol 



sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all opportu- 
nities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants 
as may be in frames, of last year's sowing. 



MARCH. 

" If the sun appear dim, surrounded with haze, 
And his disk ill-defined, and faded his rays ; 
If white at his setting, of power if shorn, 
The signs are all certain, there'll soon be a storm." 

This month affords considerable employment to an indus- 
trious gardener. Manure may be drawn on the ground and 
distributed in heaps, ready to spead, page 24 ; and the hot- 
beds and forcing-frames will require constant attention. 
Cover them up warm in cold nights, and give additional air 
as the season progresses, to prevent the plants growing weak, 
taking care to regulate the heat as directed for the different 
kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are to be put 
down this month, either for forcing or forwarding vegetables, 
they should be attended to in time, as directed. 

In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the 
weather moderates, the gardener should proceed with his 
business of pruning and cleaning fruit trees, shrubs, &c., at 
all opportunities ; and if any removal be necessary, or fresh 
trees, shrubs, vines, &c., are required, these things should be 
obtained and planted this month, if possible. Begin the 
work of the kitchen garden as soon as the earth can be 
brought into good condition, and transplant hai'dy Lettuce 
plants, 73 ; dress Articlioke beds, 33 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhu- 
barb, 91 ; Sea-Ivale, 95 ; and prepare to make new planta- 
tions of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 39 ; Beet 
seed, 44; Rape, 47; plant Cauliflower plants under hand- 
glasses, 51 and 120 ; sow Cabbage seed, 55 and 112 ; Car- 
rot, 59 ; Celery, 60 ; plant Chives, 66 ; Cucumber, in frames, 
121 ; sow Egg-plant seed, 66 ; plant Horse-radish, 69 ; Leek, 



152 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

71 ; Lettuce, 72 ; plant Melon seed in hot-beds, 132 ; sow 
Onion, 78; Parsley, 80; Parsnip, 81; Pepper, 82; plant 
Peas, 83 ; Potatoes, in frames, 133 ; sow Radish seed, 88 and 
134; plant Rocambole, 89 ; Rhubarb, 90; Sea-Kale, 95; Skir- 
ret, 97; sow Spinach seed, 99; Tomato, 101 and 112; Turnip 
seed, 104; prepare to make Hop plantations, 139; sow Herb 
seed, 106 to 108. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with 
the hardiest kinds ; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c., 
to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this 
month, every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul- 
tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as 
may have lain in ridges through the winter, apd by manuring 
and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and 
planting it early in next month. 

In the event of unfavourable weather in March, the plant- 
ing of some of the articles above enumerated may be de- 
layed until the early part of April ; but it should be borne 
in mind that if the hardiest kinds can be planted early, more 
time will be afforded to other important business, as the sea- 
son progresses. 



APRIL. 



" The state of the wind augurs rain, as they say, 
When restless in changes, now this, now that way, 
Or hollow, comes whistling plaintively by. 
The rain it betokens is probably nigh." 

This is certainly the most important month in the year 
for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the 
planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the 
same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul- 
terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug or ploughed 
this month if possible, and some of the early crops sown 
last month will require hoeing and weeding. 

Great care should be taken to have good sound seed, as 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 153 

this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of 
which, many are disappointed in their principal crops when 
too late to sow again. It is also a material consideration to 
have the hest varieties both of seed and plants of their re- 
spective kinds. See page 25. 

If not done last month, make plantations of Artichokes, 
31; Asparagus, 35; Beans, Vicia faha, 39; towards the end 
of the month, plant Beans, Phaseohts, 41 and 42 ; Beet seed, 
44 ; sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 48 ; not Cape Broccoli 
until May ; seed of Cabbage for summer use, 55 ; Cardoon, 
58 ; Carrot, 59 ; Celeiy, 60 ; sow Cress seed, 64 ; plant Cu- 
cumber in frames, 124 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Horse Radish, 
69 ; Indian Corn, 70 ; Jerusalem Artichokes, 70 ; sow Leek 
seed, 71 ; Lettuce seed, 72 ; plant Melon in hot-beds, 132 ; 
sow Mustard seed, 76 ; plant Nasturtium, 76 ; sow Onion 
seed, 78; Parsley, 80; Parsnip, 81; plant Peas, 83; Pota- 
toes, 85 ; Sweet Potatoes, 86 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; plant 
Rocambole, 89 ; Rhubarb, 90 ; Salsify, 92 ; Scorzonera, 93 ; 
Sea Kale, 94 ; sow Skirret, 97 ; Spinach, 99 ; Tomato, 101, 
112, and 136; Turnip seed, 104; Tuniip-rooted Cabbage 
in varieties, 56 ; make Hop plantations, 139. Sow the 
seed of Angelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway, 
Chervil, Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet 
Marjoram, Patience, Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Small- 
age, Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and 
such other Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may 
be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of Pe- 
rennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter 
Savory, Tarragon, and Medicinal Herbs in general, as de- 
scribed page 106 to 108. If not done last month, attend to 
the spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 33; Asparagus, 37; 
Rhubarb, 91 ; Sea Kale, 95. 

Besides the work of sowing and planting the various kinds 
of seed above enumerated, all the strongest plants of Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot- 
beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds in 



154 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

the open garden. Attend to such other business in this dB- 
partment as may have been left undone last month, and see 
that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds. 



MAY. 



" Much dew on the grass portends, as all say, 
That day which succeedij will be a clear day ; 
But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain, 
Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain." 

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be 
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. 
Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit trees, 
and sow ashes over the ground. Attend to plantations of 
Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c. ; hoe them frequently, and draw 
earth to their stems ; look out for and destroy grub worms, 
caterpillars, and other insects, 18 to 21 ; thin out the early 
plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and de- 
stroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant 
an,d sow such kinds of seed as were omitted last month ; the 
sowing of Celery, Leek, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Salsify 
seed, &c., should be attended to without farther delay. 
Transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomato, Egg-plants, &c., from 
the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 41 and 42 ; 
Beet, 44 ; Borecole, 46 ; Brussels Sprout seed, 47 ; Cape 
Broccoli, 49 ; Cauliflower, 53 ; Cabbage, 55 and 56 ; Car- 
rot, 59; Cress, G4; plant Cucumber, 65; sow Endive,- 
68; plant Indian Corn, 70; Melon, 74; Water Melon, 75; 
sow Mustard seed, 76; plant Nasturtium, 76; Okra, 77; 
Pepper, 82 ; Peas, 83 ; Potatoes, 85 ; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; 
Pumpkins, 87 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; Squash, 100 ; Tomato, 
101 ; early in this month finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, 
Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 106 to 108. Some of the 
old hot-beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best 
to form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week, 



MONTHLY CALENBAR. 155 

and gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter, 
and put a little dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare 
fresh spawn, &c., 125 to 130. 

Watering will now frequently be required for newly planted 
vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion- 
ally afterward, in dry weather, until the roots are established 
in the soil. Likewise seed-beds recently sown, till the young 
plants become vigorous. 

Weeding must be veiy diligently attended to, both by hand 
and hoe ; for as weeds grow luxuriantly, it is necessary to 
eradicate them bef(;re they spread too far, as, by neglect, 
they will not only impede the growth, but eventually smother 
the plants. 

Toward the end of the month, top such of the English 
Broad Beans as may be in blossom, to promote the swelling 
of the pods, as well as their early maturity. [See page 40.] 

Those who have young families should not fail sowing 
some Bene-plant seed, as the plant, by being steeped in a 
glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an effi- 
cacious remedy for the summer complaint. It may be sown 
in drills and managed the same as salad or Parsley. [See 
Herbs, 107.1 



JUNE. 



" The s7{y dress'd in placid soft redness at night 
Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright ; 
A fierce angry redness that shoots up at morn, 
And tinges the clouds, is a token of storm." 

The principal sowing seasons for general crops may be 
considered as past, but there are many kinds of seed which 
may be sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain 
the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any 
deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far ad- 
vanced. By this time some of the early crops will be cleared 
off, and such gi'ound as was manured for the early crops of 



156 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., will be excellent for late 
Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing crops, 
and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from running to 
seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be bene- 
ficial. Use means to destroy insects ; read pages 18 to 21 
for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 41 and 
42 ; Beet seed, 44. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cau- 
liflower, Cabbage, &c., failed last month, sow again early 
this month. Water the beds frequently, and sow tobacco 
dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recommended, page 
19. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c., for summer use ; 
transplant Cardoons, 58 ; sow Carrot seed in drills, 59 ; plant 
Cucumber seed in hills, 65 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Indian 
Corn, 70 ; transplant Leeks, 71 ; Okra seed may be planted 
early in this month, 77 ; plant Peas, if dry weather, soak 
them five or six hours in water, 83 ; plant Potatoes, 85 ; 
Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pumpkin seed, 87 ; sow summer Radish 
seed, 89 ; plant Squash, 100. 

As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a 
dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter use, 
108. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have 
reached the top, nip off" the tops to strengthen the stems, 140. 

Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the 
main top fruit attain its full size, detach the small suckers, 
or lateral heads. [See page 34.] 

Early Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing toward 
maturity, must be watered in dry weather ; and as the heads 
begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of the large 
leaves over them to protect them from the rays of the sun, 
and from rain, 52. 

Keep Asparagus clear of weeds, and also Onions ; and 
give those beds that are to stand for ripening, a final thin- 
ning, as suggested in page 78. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 157 

JULY. 

" When flowers toward evening their blossoms expana, 
And bask in the sunbeams, there's no rain at hand ; 
But when they close up as if conscious of fear, 
They augur its coming — it no doubt is near." 

This is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage, 
Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper plants, &c., for 
full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants 
beforehand, in order that they may be ready to catch the 
rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry weather, by first 
steeping the roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there 
be tlie least moisture in the ground when it is freshly turned 
over. As grub-worms are apt to devour Cabbage plants early 
in this month, those persons anxious to transplant any quantity, 
may dip the roots in fish oil, and then dry them in plaster of 
Paris, which will not only annoy the worms, but prove bene- 
ficial as manures, 19 and 20. If transplanting in general be 
delayed to the middle of the month, grub-worms will be 
harmless, 55. 

If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seed may produce 
good roots by autumn, if planted early in the month ; plant 
Beans, 41 ; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards, 
57 ; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 6G ; sow Endive 
seed, and transplant the former sowing, 68 ; if Peas be 
planted now, they should be soaked in soft water five or six 
hours, 83 ; Potatoes may be planted early in this month, 85 ; 
and Pumpkins, if not done last month, 87. Sow summer 
Radish seed in drills, 89 ; sow Turnip-rooted Cabbage seed, 
in varieties, 56 ; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, or Rus- 
sian Turnip, 105 ; and the common kinds of Turnip seed 
may be sown toward the end of this month, 104. Attend 
to plantations of Hops, 140 ; whatever herbs may be required 
for winter use, should be cut off and dried as they come into 
flower ; Burnet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Mar- 
joram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may 
all be cut this month, 106 to 108. 

14 



158 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

The business of sowing and transplanting will be more 
successful if done in moist or showery weatlier, or on the 
approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for preca- 
rious seed, and young seedling plants. Attend to the Mush- 
room beds, and give light waterings, or expose them to warm 
moderate showers occasionally, 130. 



AUGUST. 

"When clouds slow dissolve, as if turned into air, 
And vanish from sight, the next day will be fair; 
But when, in succession, tliey darker appear. 
With watery aspect, then know rain is near." 

The planting season being nearly over, now is the time to 
hoe aroimd the plants and clear the ground of weeds and 
stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for fall Tur- 
nips, Spinach, Shallots, Fetticus, &c. As the ground for the 
latter crops may require manure, it will be greatly improved 
if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which should be 
afterward spread and ploughed under. 

Plant Beans for picklers, 41 ; sow Cabbage seed for Col- 
lards, 57 ; earth up Cardoons, 58 ; do. Celery, 62 ; sow Corn 
Salad, or Fetticus seed, 63 ; the early kinds of Cucumber 
may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 66; 
transplant Endive, and prepare to blanch the early plantings, 
68 ; sow Lettuce for autumn use, 73 and 125 ; sow Onion 
seed to stand the winter, 78 ; Peas may be planted thus late, 
if desired, 83; sow summer Radish seed, 89; prepare for 
planting Shallots by the end of this month, 97; sow Turnip 
seed for full crops, 104; attend to such herbs as were not 
gathered last month ; cut off and dry Sage, and other late 
herbs, 106 to 108. Hojis will be ripe this month ; choose a 
dry season for gathering them, and attend to them as direct- 
ed, page 140 ; this is a good season for preparing to make 
JVIushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars, or pits ; if the mate- 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 159 

rial'i be gatliered this month, indigenous spawn may be col- 
lected next, but those that can procure spawn may make 
the beds at any time, or they may pursue Mr. Nichol's plan, 
128. 

Artichokes will be in perfection this month, and should be 
cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and 
before they open in the heart for flowering ; and as you cut 
them, break down the stems to promote the growth of root 
offsets, 34. In dry weather hoe and plough between such 
vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will not 
only destroy weeds, but encourage the growth of the plants. 
Frequent iioeing in dry weather will be more beneficial than 
the watering-pot. 

Early sown Onions, being now of mature growth, and full 
bulbed, should be pulled up in dry jveather and exposed to 
the sun to ripen; frequently turning them, that they may 
harden equally for keeping ; then clear them from the gross 
part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c., and re- 
move them to a place of shelter, 78. 

Continue to gather seed of all kinds as they ripen, and 
prepare vacant ground for late crops ; such as Spinach, Shal- 
lot, Onion, Fetticus, &c., 98. 



SEPTEMBER. 

" Light vapours o'er valleys and rivers at night, 
Foretokens tlie next day salubrious and bright ; 
Especially when they at morning appear 
To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air." 

Although the sowing season is nearly over, the crops on 
the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still 
be transplanted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other 
vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celeiy as it pro- 
gresses in growth. Tie up Endive plants for blanching, 68 ; 
sow Rape, 47; Cauliflower seed, 51; Cabbage, 54; Cora 



]G0 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

Salad, or Fetticus, 63 ; Cress, Rape, &c., every ten days, for 
a salad, 64; sow Mustard, for the same purpose, 76; sow 
Lettuce, 73 and 125 ; Onion, to stand the winter, 78 ; Radish, 
for fall use, 89 ; plant Shallots, 97 ; sow Spinach seed every 
week or ten days, 98 ; Turnips will sometimes come to ma- 
turity if the seed be sown the early part of this month, and 
those sown last month will need hoeing as they progress in 
gfrowth, 104. 

Continue to gather, dry, and pack Hops as they ripen, 140 ; 
also all Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 108 ; this is 
a good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situa- 
tions ; they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial 
spawn, as may be most convenient. [For directions to pre- 
serve spawn, &c., see pages 126 and 127.] 

Toward the end of this month, or early in the next, is a 
good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by 
parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet 
weather ; at the same time, such herbs as were raised from 
seed sown in the spring, may be transplanted into separate 
beds or borders, 106 to 108. 

In this month must be finished all the principal sowings 
and plantings necessary this year; on this account such 
ep:ound as is intended for principal crops next year, should 
be well manured previous to planting it. [See Spinach, 98.] 

Cucumber vines should be looked over, and the fruit 
gathered as it becomes fit for pickling, as a very slight frost 
will destroy Cucumbers, 66. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. • 161 

OCTOBER. 

" A warm, open winter doth often succeed 
A hot and dry summer, by all 'tis agreed ; 
A hard, frosty winter its rigour retains. 
And holds gentle spring in its cold icy chains." 

The principal winter crops being planted, it will be neces- 
sary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall 
crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth 
up Celery ; do it in dry weather, and not even while the 
dew is on it, 62. Toward the end of the month, frames 
must be provided for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and 
of such Cabbage and Cauliflower plants as were raised from 
seed sown last month. Begin to dig and secure all kinds 
of vegetables soon enough to get the whole placed away be- 
fore the end of the next month. Take up Potatoes and bury 
them in pits, so as to secure them from wet and frost, or put 
them in a warm cellar. Proceed to take up other roots ; 
begin wdth the most tender kinds, or do that which is re- 
quired to be done in dry weather, while it is so. Collect 
Pumpkins and winter Squashes, and expose them to the 
wind and air on a dry bench, or ledge, before they are stowed 
away. Dig up Beets, and secure them in pits, or pack them 
in sand in a cellar. 

Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a 
thorough cleaning and dressing ; by destroying all weeds, 
cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such plants 
as vnll admit of it, and spreading earth over others, as sug- 
gested, page 108. 

Tie up full-gi-own plants of Endive every week in dry 
weather, for blanching in succession, as required, 68. 

Horse-radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by 
trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright roots, 
leaving the old stools for future production, 69. Jcrusaiem 
Artichokes may be dug up for use, or to presei-ve for vvdnter 
consumption, 71. 

14* 



162 MONTHLY CALENDAR, 

NOVEMBER. 

"When nuts are but few, and they small and hollow, 
A cold and wet harvest, there's no doubt, will follow ; 
But when they are plenty, and sood, 'tis agreed, 
A ricli, golden harvest is sure to succeed." 

Endeavour to avoid having youi' garden products frozen 
fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ; 
in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Skirret, 
Salsify, and other hardy roots as will be required for winter 
use, and pack them close together in pits ; give them a coat 
of straw, and afterward heap on as much earth as will keep 
out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. Toward the end of 
the month, Turnips may be secui'ed in the same way. Take 
up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close together 
against a ridge, which should be previously formed in a 
straight line, about a foot above the level of the surface ; 
throw up earth from the trench suflScient to cover them about 
an inch, and then plant row after row as close and upright 
as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between every 
row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each other. 
The whole being covered up with earth, some long dung or 
litter may be thrown over it, sufficient to keep out the frost; 
and by heaping a good layer of manure against the last row 
of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in the Vi^inter for 
use. Some erect a board shed over to protect it from wet ; 
a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cabbage must be 
taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as to form a 
square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems 
being buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The 
beds may afterward be covered with straw, or a temporary 
shed may be erected over them. Cabbage will keep for 
some months in a cellar, if cotmected with their roots. For 
the management of Broccoli and Cauliflower, see articles, 
pages 48, 51, and 120. Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Col- 
lards, may be taken up and stowed away like Cabbages. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 163 

Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in sand 
in a cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close 
together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the lower 
leaves. If the last row be protected from frost by a coat of 
stable dung, they can be taken out when required for use. 
Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce, may be protected by a 
covering of straw, salt hay, or cedar brush. For the man- 
agement of Artichoke beds, see page 32 ; Asparagus, 37 ; 
Rhubarb 91 ; Sea-Kale, 95. 

Dig up roots of Horse-radish in the manner recommended 
last month, to preserve in sand or pits, for use when the 
ground is frozen or ice-bound. Do the like by Jerusalem 
Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection. At the 
same time take up as many Parsnips and other hardy roots, 
as will be required for use the next three months. Spread 
short horse dung over the Onions that were sown in August 
and September, which will protect them through the winter. 



DECEMBER. 

"A wet, sultry summer, prognostics affirm, 
A boist'rous autumn will bring in its turn ; 
A cold, sour autumn and summer portend 
A winter severe from beginning to end. " 

If all was not done as directed last month, there is no 
time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection should 
now be attended to, and if the weather continues open, some 
of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the 
benefit of winter frosts. Collect all your Pea-sticks and 
Bean-poles together, and place them under cover to prevent 
their rotting. Turn over compost heaps, and piovide manure 
for another year. 

Those who are desirous of having Cucumbers or Melons 
early in the ensuing spring, and have not the convenience 



164 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

for forcing tliem in the ordinary way, may dig a few grass 
sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them away out 
of the reach of frost, through the winter. These being 
placed on the top of a hot-bed, in March, or early in April, 
with the grass downward, and Cucumber or Melon seed 
planted in the earthy part thereof, early plants may be pi'o- 
duced, which can be removed with the turfs without dis- 
turbing their growth, and cultivated either on the ridge sys- 
tem, as recommended in page 132, or in the open ground, 
provided they can be kept growing in frames until settled 
warm Aveather. This is also an excellent plan in early 
forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk in transplanting 
seedling plants into the fruiting beds. 

If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and 
cover them as recommended in page 32. Defend Mushroom 
beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as 
may be exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all 
moderate weather during the wintei', give air to Cabbage, 
Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in 
frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats, 
boards, litter, &c., as necessity may require. 

As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar- 
dener to re\dew the results of his practice throughout the 
past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for the 
future. 

In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he 
ought to make provision for a full supply of such vegetables as 
are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit; with this 
object in view, I would suggest that he take a retrospective 
view of his previous management, and also of the directions 
given in the preceding chapter relative to the preparation of 
the soil, by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing, manuring, &c., 
as circumstances may require; bearing in mind, that although 
clayey soils may be benefited by fall ridging, light sandy 
ground should lay flat through the winter. 



THE 

YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 

PART II. 
FLOWER DEPARTMENT. 



CONTENTS. 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

On laying out the ground. — Adaptation of each species pnge. 
of plants to its peculiar element, - - - - 13 

Suggestions for forming a rockery to accommodate plants 

which originated in mountainous districts, - - 14 

The cultivation of annual flowers adapted to Ladies. — 
In sowing of seed, transplanting, watering, and 
training plants, by tying them to neat poles or rods, 
or leading them over trellis-work, &c. — Attention 
directed to grass-walks, lawns, gravel-walks, box- 
edgings, decayed plants, insects, &c., - - - 15 

INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER 
SEED. 

Attention directed to the study of Flowers, with a view 
to their successful cultivation. — Observations on 
the germination of seed in diffej-ent climates. — 
Estimates respecting annual flowers as regards their 
growth, time of blossoming, &c., - - - 16 

A Catalogue of Annual Flower Seed, - - - 18 

Suggestions for providing bulbous, tuberous, and peren- 
nial plants, includmg Dahlias, &c., for early plant- 
ing. — Also, garden implements, labels, suitable 
soil, compost, &c., ------ 22 

Directions for sowing flower seed in borders, flower- 
pots, beds, and circles, with notes illustrative of 
the different plans, ------ 23 

Method of securing fragrance to Mignonette, - - 26 

PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS TO THE CATALOGUE OF BIEN- 
NIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED. 

On the circulation of the sap in roots and stalks of plants, 28 
Frequent renewals of the roots of pez'ennial plants 

recommended, 29 

A Catalogue of Biennial and Perennial Flower seed, - 30 



CONTENTS. 



Directions for cultivating biennial and perennial flow- page. 
ers from seed, offsets, layers, cuttings, &c. — Also, 
for propagating green-house plants, and for arrang- 
ing intermixed flowers to advantage, illustrated by 
notes and annotations, - - - - 

Introduction to the Catalogue of Flowering and Orna- 
mental Shrubs. — Observations on the adaptation of 
dwarf shrubs for hedges to a flower garden, also on 
training creepers or climbers to the best advantage, 

A Catalogue of Dwarf Flowering, and Ornamental 
Shrubs, -------- 

A Catalogue of Climbing Ornamental Shrubs, - 

Directions for the propagation of Ornamental Shrubs by 
various methods, -.--.. 

Directions for transplanting, pruning, and training Orna- 
mental Shrubs, ------- 

Beauties of April and May — Showing the order of 
the flower tribe throughout the summer season, 
with poetic pieces illustrative of the different genera, 54 



33 



38 

39 

45 

49 
53 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND 
TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS. 



On the introduction and multiplication of the above de- 
scription of plants, ------ 

Bulbous and Tuberous Roots defined — Soil suited to 
bulbous roots in general, - - - - - 

Directions for forming the beds to contain bulbous and 
tuberous roots, also for preserving the bulbs and 
tubers when in a dormant state, - - - - 



63 



64 



65 



BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS, 
Practical directions for the cultivation of which will be found undo: each head. 



Amaryllis, 


67 


Ixias, 


- 82 


Anemone and Ranuncu- 




Jonquil, - 


- 83 


lus, - - - - 


68 


Lachenalias, - 


- 83 


Crocus, in numerous vari- 




Lilies, 


- 83 


ties, - - - - 


69 


Narcissus, 


- 85 


Crown Imperial, 


69 


Ornithogalum, or 


Star of 


Colchicum, - - - 


70 


Bethlehem, 


- 85 


Cyclamen, . . - 


70 


Oxalis, - 


- 86 


Double Dahlia, 


70 


Paeony, - 


- 87 


Gladiolus, or Sword Lily, 


79 


Tulip, - 


- 88 


Hyacinth, 


81 


Tuberose, 


- 92 


Iris, or Flower de Luce, 


82 


Tiger Flower, 


- 93 



CONTENTS. 



IX. 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS ROOTS 
IN POTS AND GLASSES. 

Caution against over-watering bulbous plants at parti- page. 

cular seasons, -----..94 
On the choice of roots for cultivation in a green-house 

or light room, 95 

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF GREEN- 
HOUSE PLANTS. 

The peculiarities of exotic plants defined, - - - 97 

Brief directions for the management of green-house 

plants, 98 

Hints furnished by an amateur for the keeping of plants 

in rooms, --------99 

An attempt to prove that Light, Heat, Air, and Moisture 
are essential to the preservation of plants, and that 
vi^ater should be appHed in proportion as heat and 
air are attainable, 100 

Suggestions for providing suitable compost, to be used 

in re-potting the various species of plants, - - 101 

Catalogue of Chrysanthemums, with directions for their 

cultivation, 102 

Introduction to the Catalogue of Green-house Plants, 
wherein the reader's attention is directed to vari- 
ous subjects, ----... 103 

Descriptive catalogue of the most esteemeil species of 

exotic plants, -104 



OUTLINE OF THE FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HOTICULTURE, ETC., 
Which embraces much general information under the following heads : 



I. General nature of 



Plants, 
II. Root, - 

III. Stem, 

IV. Leaf-Buds, 
V. Leaves, 

VI. Flowers, 
VII. Sexes, 



- 120 

- 121 

- 123 

- 124 

- 127 

- 128 

- 130 



VIII. 


Fruit, - 


- 131 


IX. 


Seed, - 


- 133 


X. 


Sap, - 


- 134 


XI. 


Air and Light, 


- 135 


XII. 


Perspiration, 


- 137 


XIII. 


Cuttings, 


- 138 


XIV. 


Scions, 


- 139 



XV. Transplantation, - 140 



COXTEN'TS, 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



January. — Reasons given why temperance in the use p^ge, 
of water should be observed in the cultivation 
of plants during the winter season. — Directions for 
regulating the temperature of the room in which 
plants are kept. — A brick flue recommended for the 
purpose of heating a small green-house, &c., - 142 

Ff^BRUARY. — Directions for cultivating Camellias or Ja- 
pan Roses — Also, for the management of such bul- 
biius r()ots as may be in progress of blooming. — 
Several perennial plants enumerated, which require 
attention this month. — Information given how to 
make a hot-bed for the purpose of raising early 
plants, 143 

M.iKi^H. — The Business of this month consists in attend- 
ing to Monthly Roses, Primroses, Polyanthus, Au- 
riculas, English Spring- Flowers, Schizanthus, &c. 
— In sowing in hot-beds the seed of Dahlia, Mig- 
nonette, Primula, and such other species as are 
designated thus § and tlnis t in the Catalogues, 
pages 18 and 30. — The roots of Dahlia, Amaryllis, 
Gladiolus, Tiger Flower, Tuberose, &c., may be 
planted in hot-beds, to forward them in growth, - 146 

April. — Recommendations on various subjects — as, at- 
tention to box edgings, gravel-walks, flowei'ing 
shrubs, herbaceous plants, bulbous rooted plants, 
Dahlia roots, green-house plants, &c. — It is sug- 
gested to cultivate all the ground of the garden this 
inonth, if possible, and to sow all the different spe- 
cies of seed that the season will admit of, - - 148 

May. — x^s tlie warm weather progresses, the gardener 
is du'ected to conquer the various kinds of insects — 
to provide awnings for the protection of choice 
(loweis — to set out green-house plants — and to in- 
crease their number by propagation from cuttings, 
suckers, seed, &c., as adverted to in the Calendar, 149 

June. — It is recommended to water green-house plants 
frequently in dry, warm weather, to shade Hydran- 
geas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, &c., from the 
noonday sun — to remove decayed plants, and to 
replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery 
• bed — to transplant annual flower plants. Dahlias, 
&c., 151 



CONTENTS. XI, 

July.— The gardener is reminded that this is the proper p^^g^ 
time for pruning Garden Roses, and other plants — 
Also, for budding Orange and Lemon trees — for 
laying Carnations, Pinks, Pansies, Running Verbe- 
nas, &c., with a view to their propagation — for 
destroying weeds, to prevent their seeding in the 
ground, &c., .._-.-. 153 

August. — Attention is directed to green-house plants, 
which will need watering often — and toward the 
end of the month they will require to be replen- 
ished with fresh compost, and re-potted. — Also, to 
the budding of Orange and Lemon trees, if not 
done last month, ------- 154 

September. — It is suggested to take up such tender and 
half-hardy plants as were placed in the earth of the 
flower beds in the spring, with a view to their being 
pruned and re-potted. — Also, to plant such bulbous 
roots as are described in the Calendar, - - 155 

October. — In this month the florist is reminded of the 
importance of housing all tender exotic plants, ten- 
der bulbous and tuberous roots, &c. — Also, to the 
planting of the hardy species of bulbous roots, in 
flower beds, before the approach of severe frost, - 156 

November. — During the continuance of mild weather, 
it is recommended to give air at all opportunities 
to green-house plants. — Also, to place half-hardy 
plants in frames, and cover up flower beds with 
leaves, straw, or light litter, with a view to their 
preservation through the winter, - - - - 157 

December. — Constant care and attention is recommend- 
ed to the situation of green-houses or rooms in 
which plants are kept, which should be so secure 
as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or the es- 
cape of warm air in the night season, - . - - 159 

The Matrimonial Garden, wherein the tempers and 
dispositions of the mind are compared to plants, 
which require careful cultivation, - - - 160 



OBSERVATIONS 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Previous to forming a flower garden, the ground should 
be made mellow and rich, by being well pulverized, manured, 
and prepared in every respect as if intended for a kitchen 
garden. A flower garden should be protected from cold, 
cutting winds by close fences, or plantations of shrubs, form- 
ing a close and compact hedge, which should be neatly trim- 
med every year. Generally speaking, a flower garden should 
not be on a large scale, and the beds or borders should not 
in any part be broader than the cultivator can reach^ without 
treading on them : the shape and number of the beds must 
be determined by the quantity of the ground, and the taste 
of the person laying out the garden. 

Much of the beauty of a pleasure garden depends on the 
manner in which it is laid out ; a great variety of figures 
may be indulged in for the flower beds. Some choose oval 
or circular forms, others squares, triangles, hearts, diamonds, 
&c., intersected with winding grass paths and gravel walks. 
In the design of an ornamental garden, nature, however, 
should be imitated as closely as practicable, not only in the 
formation and regulation of the flower beds, but in the adap- 
tation of each species to its peculiar element, soil, and situ- 
ation, taking into consideration, that the inmates of a garden, 
constituting as they do a mingled group, collected from all 
the different climates and soils of the vegetable creation, re- 
quire each its most essential aliment, to promote a luxuriant 
growth. 

2 



14 OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

Neatness should be the prevaiUng characteristic ofaflowei 
garden, which should be so situated as to form an ornamental 
appendage to the house ; and, where circumstances will admit, 
placed before the windows exposed to a southern or south- 
eastern aspect. The principle on which it is laid out, ought to 
be that of exhibiting a variety of colour and form, so blended 
as to produce one beautiful whole. In a small flower garden, 
viewed from the windows of a house, this effect is best pro- 
duced by beds, or borders, formed side by side, and parallel 
to the windows whence they are seen, as in that position the 
colours show to the best advantage. In a retired part of the 
garden, a rustic seat may be formed, over and around which 
grape vines, or honeysuckles, and other sweet and ornamental 
creepers and climbers, may be trained on trellises, which will 
afibrd a pleasant rural retreat. 

In extensive pleasure grounds a rockery, formed of rough 
stone, and rich light soil, may be erected in imitation of a 
mountain, on which may be cultivated various plants natives 
of mountainous districts, and such indigenous plants as are 
calculated for the situation ; also herbaceous plants, procum- 
bent and trailing, such as Mesembryanthemums, Climbing 
Cordydalis, the various species of Silene or Catch Fly, Gyp- 
sophila, Lotus, Ricota or Syrian Honesty, Godetia, &c. These 
being interspersed with dwarf plants of different species, as 
Mountain Lychnis, Violets, Daisies, &c., and so arranged as 
to cover a great proportion of the rocky surface, must ne- 
cessarily produce a very pleasing effect. 

Although the greatest display is produced by a general 
flower garden, that is, by cultivating such a variety in one 
bed or border as will insure an almost constant blooming ; yet 
bulbous rooted plants, though essential to the perfection of the 
flower garden, lose something of their peculiar beauty when 
not cultivated by themselves. The extensive variety of bul- 
bous roots furnishes means for the formation of a garden, 
the beauty of which, arising from an intei mixture of every 
variety of foim and colour, would well repay the trouble of 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDE.V. 15 

cultivation, particularly, as by a judicious selection and man- 
agement, a succession of bloom may be kept up for some 
length of time. As, however, bulbous flowers lose their richest 
tints about the time that Annuals begin to display their beauty, 
there can be no well-founded objection to the latter being 
transplanted into the bulbous beds, so that the opening blos- 
soms of the Annuals may fill the place of those just withered, 
and continue to supply the flower-beds with all the gayety 
and splendour of the floral kingdom. 

The cultivation of Annual Flowers is a delightful employ- 
ment, and well adapted to the amusement of a lady, who, with 
the assistance of a labourer to prepare the ground, may turn 
a barren waste into a beauteous flower garden with her own 
hands. Sowing the seed, transplanting, watering, and train- 
ing the plants, tying them to sticks as props, leading them over 
txellis-work, and gathering their seed, are all suitable feminine 
occupations, and from their affording motives for exercise in 
the open air, they contribute greatly to health and tranquillity 
of mind. 

But the taste of the florist will be exercised to little pur- 
pose, in the selection of Flowers, if strict attention is not paid 
to the general state of the garden. If there are lawns or 
grass walks, they should be frequently trimmed, and more 
frequently mowed and rolled, to prevent the grass from inter- 
fering with the flower-beds, and to give the whole a neat, regu- 
lar, carpet-like appearance. If there are gravel walks, they 
should be frequently cleaned, replenished with fresh gravel, 
and rolled. Box, and other edgings, should be kept clear of 
weeds, and neatly trimmed every spring. Decayed plants 
should be removed, and replaced by vigorous ones from the 
nursery bed. Tall flowering plants must be supported by neat 
poles or rods; and all dead stalks and leaves fi-om decayed 
flowers must be frequently removed. 

In the summer season, all kinds of insects must be timely 
desti'oyed, and in the evenings of warm days, the flowers will 
require frequent watering. 



16 



INTRODUCTION 



CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 



To raise your flowers, various arts combine ; 
Study these well, and fancy's flight decline. 
If you would have a vivid, vigorous breed 
Of every kind, examine well the seed : 
Learn to what Elements your plants belong. 
What is their constitution, weak or strong ; 
Be their physician, careful of their lives, 
And see that every species daily thrives ; 
These love much Air, these on much Heat rely, 
These, witliout genial Moisture, droop and die. 
Supply the wants of each, and they will pay 
For all your care through each succeeding day. 

With a view to render this work more generally useful 
and interesting, a classification and definition of the various 
species and varieties embraced in the annexed Catalogue, 
are attempted to be given. Precision, however, in the per- 
formance of this task is impracticable, as it must be evident 
that the vegetable family, having been collected from every 
variety of climate and soil, will differ as to height, colour, 
time of blossoming, and in many other essential points, when 
cultivated out of their natural Element. 

Some seed germinate in two or three days after having 
been deposited in the earth ; others will not exhibit signs of 
vegetation in as many weeks. These and other distinguish- 
ing features arise, in a great measure, from their having 
originated in various soils and climates. Natives of cool or 
temperate climates and moist soils, are generally tardy in 
germinating when cultivated in a warm climate and dry soil, 
for want of a due share of their most essential aliment, 
Moisture; and natives of warm climates and light soils 
require artificial culture in cool seasons and unpropitious 
climates, in order to their being accommodated with their 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 17 

natural and most important aliment, Heat. Air also is a 
more necessary aliment to some species than to others, but 
these three elements collectively, constitute the food of plants 
in general. It may also be observed that the adaptation of 
plants to a soil congenial to them is of the utmost import- 
ance ; as plants will not thrive well when improper food is 
absorbed by their roots. 

Under favourable circumstances, annuals, in general, wall 
produce their flower buds within two months from the period 
of sowing the seed. Some species, soon after exhibiting 
their brilliant blossoms and ripening their seed, disappear, 
while others embellish the borders with a succession of flow- 
ers for two or three months. An assortment of seed judi- 
ciously selected, and sown in due season, will afford amuse- 
ment to the cultivator the greater part of a summer, and 
yield seed for the propagation of the species in succeeding 
years, if gathered when ripe, and carefully preserved. 

Annual plants will grow from one to four feet in height, 
in one uniform soil and situation ; but as these are diversified 
in almost every garden, no correct conclusion can be dra\vn 
in this particular ; an attempt, however, has been made in 
the annexed Catalogue, to describe the various species as 
nearly as possible, which may serve as a guide to the gardener 
in planting ; the most dwarfish being adapted to the fi'ont or 
outer edge of the borders, and others in regular gra,datii)n. 

Those species marked thus § are tender. Those marked 
thus * should be sown in the spot wliere they are intended 
to blossom, as they are apt to droop and die by being ti'ans- 
planted. A few are marked thus t. These, though cultivated 
as annuals, from their facilities in blossoming and ripening 
their seed the first season, are in reality perennial, as are also 
some other varieties from warm climates, usually denominated 
annuals ; but as such could not be cultivated at all by those 
who have no means of protecting their plants during our 
severe winters, they may with gi'eat propriety be ti"eated as 
tender annuals, by sowing the seed every spring. 

2* 



18 

A CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 
Graines de Jleueres anniielles. 

§ Denotes tender. + Perennial. * Difficult to transplant. 

Feet High. 
+ Ageratum, Mexican, blue, Ageratum Mexicana, 1 to 2 

Alkekengi, or Kite Flower, lilac, Atropa physaloides, 3 to 4 

t Alyssum, Sweet, white, Alyssum maritima, 1 

§ Amaranthus, three-coloured, Amaranthus tricolor, 2 to 3 

* Argemone. or Prickly Poppy, yel- Argemone, Mexicana, grandi- 

low, cream-coloured, and white, flora, ochrolenca, etc., 2 to 4 

Aster, Chinese and German, white, Aster, Ckinensi'i,var.ali>a,nibra, 

red, striped, purple, &c., striata, purpurea, etc., 1 to 2 

§ Baisams ; three species and nume- Balsamina fiortensw, Mastersia- 

rous varieties, scarlet, striped, pur- na, cornuta, coccinea, striata, 

pie. crimson, white, &c. purpurea, alba, etc., 1 to 2 

§ Bartonia, the Golden, Bartonia aurea, 2 to 3 

Bladder Ketmia, buff, dark centre, Hibiscus trionum, 1 to 2 

Blue Bottle, Great, Centaurea cyanus, major, 3 to 4 

Blue Bottle, Small, Centaurea cyanus, minor, 1 to 2 

Blumenbaohia, white, Blumenbachia insignis, under 1 

§ Browallia,or Amethyst, blue, white, Broumllia elata, alba, etc., 1 to 2 

§ Cacalia, .scarlet, Cacalia coccinea, 1 to 2 

Calliopsis; Drummond's Coreopsis, Calliopsis Drummondii, 2 to 3 

Calandrina, Annual, crimson, Calandrina, speciosa, etc., 1 to 2 

+ Calandrina. rose and purple tinged, Calandrina discolor, etc, 2 to 3 

* Candytuft, white and purple, Iberis alba, purpurea, etc., 1 

* Catch Fly, purple and red, Silene purpurea, m.uscipula, etc. 2 to 3 

* Catch Fly, dwarf pink, spotted, &c., Silene Armeria, picta, etc, 1 to 2 

* Caterpillars, Hedge-hogs, & Snails, Medicago circinnata, intertexfa, 

curious, scufellata, etc, 1 to 2 

Centaurea, or pink Sultan, Centaurea Americana, 2 to 3 

China Pink, of every shade, Bianthus, Cfiinensis, annuus, 1 to 2 

§ Cleome, rose-coloured, white, &c., Cleome rosea, spinoca, etc., 2 to 3 
Chrysanthemum, white, yellow, and ChrysantJiemum coronariu,m, 

three-coloured, alM., lutea, tricolor, etc., 2 to 3 

Clarkia, rose, purple, white, &c., Clarkia elegans, pulcliella, etc, 1 to 2 
§ Clintonia, elegant blue, Clinfonia elegans, 1 to 2 

§ Cockscomb, crimson and yellow. Celncia criMatn, lutea, 2 to 3 

§ CoUinsia, lilac, white, two-coloured, Collinsia hetrophilla, hicolor, 2 to 3 
tCommelina. blue-flowering, Commelina coslestis, 1 

* Convolvulus, dwarf variegated, &c., Convolvulus minor, bicolor, etc. 1 to 2 
Coreopsis, Golden, dark centre, Calliopsis tinctoria, 2 to 3 
§ Cotton Plant, cream, Gossypium herbaceum, 3 to 4 
Crotalaria, purple, yellow, and white, Crotalaria verrucosa, etc, 1 to 2 
Cuphea, Mexican, scarlet, variegated, Cuphea lanceolata, silenoidefi, 1 to 2 
•f- Dahlia, Mexican, various, Dahlia superfiua, 3 to 6 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 



§ Denotes tender. t perbnnia]. * Difficult to transpiont. 

Feet high. 
Devil in the Bush, or Love in a Mist, Nigella damnscena, Hispanica, 



blue, yellow, purple, white, &c. , 
Dwarf Love in a Mist, various, 
+ Dew Plant, crimson, 
f Didiscus, azure blue, 
§ Egg-plant, white, for ornament, 
Erissimum, orange, 



orientalis, sativa, etc., 1 to 2 

Nigella nana, 1 

Mesembryanthemum glabrum, 1 to 2 
Didiscus cceruleus, 2 to 3 

Solanum melongena, 1 to 2 

Erissimum pernfskianurn, 1 to 2 
t Escholtzia, or Chryseis, yellow, red, Escholtzia, crucea, cristatu, Cal- 

and orange, Calif ornica, etc., 1 

Eternal Flower, yellow, purple, and Xeranthemum lucidum., var, lu- 

white, tea, bracteatum, alba, 2 to 3 

Euphorbia, variegated. Euphorbia variegaf a, 2 to 3 

* Evening Primrose, dwarf annual, (Enothera linearis, Brummondii, 

white, yellow, red, &c., tetraptera, micrantha, etc., 1 to 2 

* Evening Primrose, large yellow, (Enothera grandiflora, 

* Evening Primrose, willow-leaved, (Enothera salcifolia, 
Feather Grass, Stipa pinnafa, avenacea, 

* Flos Adonis, or Pleasant Eye, red, Adonis minata, 



j- Francoa, pink and purple, 

§Galardia, orange and crimson, 

Garidella, Nigella like, 

Gilia, blue, pink, variegated, &c., 

§ Globe Amaranthus, crimson, white 

Grove Love, blue, 

+ Godetia the Twiggy, purple, 

Godetia the Ruddy, annual. 



2 to 3 

3 to 4 
1 to 2 
1 to 2 
1 to2 
1 to2 
lto2 
1 to2 

1 to2 
1 

3 to 4 

2 to 3 



Francoa appendiculata, 
Galardia picia, 
Garidella nigellastrum, 
Gilia capitata, tricolor, etc-, 
Gomphrena globnsa, 
Nemophila insignis, 
Godetia viminea, 
Godetia rubricunda, 
Godetia, dwarf, purple, and spotted, Godetia lepida, Lyndleyana.etc, 1 to 2 

* Gypsophila, pink and white, Gypsnphila elegans, viscosa, 1 to 2 
Hawkweed, yellow and red, Crepis barbata rubra, 1 to 2 
§ Hibiscus, yellow, reddish centre. Hibiscus A fricanus, 2 to 3 

* Horned Poppy, yellow and scarlet, Glauceum luteum, phcKniceum, 2 to 3 
t Hunnemania, brilliant yellow, Himne mania famerix, foli/i. 3 to 4 
Hypecoum, three species, yellow, Hypecoum procumbens, etc., 1 to 2 

Mesembryanthemum, var. 1 

Senecio purpurea, elegans, etc., 1 to 2 
Coix lachryma Johi, 2 to 3 

Larkspur, dwarf Rocket, white, blue, Belphinium ajaci-f, alba, coej'u- 
purple, pink, and other colours, lea, purpurea, etc, 1 to 2 

Larkspur, branching, various colours, Delphinium consolida, etc., 2 to 3 



§ Ice Plant, white, 

+ Jacobea, purple, spotted, &c., 

Job's Tears, gray. 



Lavattr.'i, red, p\irple, and white, 
Love lies bleeding, crimson, 
Lunaria, purple, 

* Lupins, dwarf annual, yellow, pur- 

ple, rose, two-coloured, &c., 
Malesherbia, blue, 

* Malope, tall scarlet, &c., 

* Malope, dwarf crimson, rose. 
Marigold, African, yellow, orange, 



Lavafera, trimestris, alba, etc., 4 to 6 
Amaranthus melancholicus, 1 to 2 
Lunaria purpurea, 1 to 2 

Lupinus nanus, densifiorus, bi- 

color, etc., 1 to 2 

Malesherbia coronata, 2 to 3 

Malope grandiflora, etc., 3 to 4 

Malope irifida, malacoides, 1 to '2 
Tagetes erecfa, 3 to 4 



20 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 



§ Denotea tender. ♦ Perennial. * Difficult to transplant 

Feet high. 
Tagetes patiila, 2 to 3 

Calendula officinalis, 1 to 2 

Mesembnjardhemum annutis, 1 

Martynia proboscideo., 2 to 3 

t Marvel of Peru, or Four O'Clocks, Mirabilis j'alapa, luiea, rubra. 

while, yellow, red, striped scented, striata, longijiora, etc., 2 to 3 

t Misnonette, sweet scented. Reseda odorata, under 1 

t Monkey Flower, yellow, scarlet, Mimulun moschafus, cardina.lis, 

rose, &c , variegated, rivularius, roseus, etc., 1 to 2 

§ Nierembergia, several varieties of Nierembergia intermedia, viola- 



Marigold, French, variegated, 
JMarigold, sweet, yellow striped, 
§ Marigold, Fig, yellow, 
Martynia, or Cuckold's Horn, 



various colours. 
Nolana, in varieties, blue, 
• Oats, animated, green, 
+ Pansy, or Heart's Ease, purple, 

blue, yellow, and numerous shades, 

variegated, 
Pentaptes. scarlet, 
Phlox, annual, rosy red, &c. 
Pimpernel, blue and scarlet. 
Poppy, lane white and scarlet. 



cea, p/iosnicia, etc., 2 to 3 

Nolanaparadoxia,prostrata,etc 1 to 2 
Avena sensitiva, 2 to 3 

Viola tricolor, grandijiora, atro, 

purpurea, ccerulea, lutea, etc., 

under 1 
Pentaptes plioenicia, 1 to 2 

Phlox Drummondii, etc., 1 to 2 

Anagallis indica, arvensis, 1 

Papaver sonmiferum. coccinea, 3 to 4 

* Poppy, dwarf, scarlet, white, yel- Papaver rhceas, nudicale, Persi- 

low. striped. Persian red, &c., cum, rubra, striata, etc., 1 to 2 

Portulaca, two var., purple, scarlet, Portulaca splendens, coccinea, 1 

Prince's Feather, crimson, Amaranthus hypocondriacus, 2 to 3 

Rocket Candytuft, white, &c., Iberis coronaria, etc., 1 to 2 

Rose Campion, annual, dwarf red, Agrosfemmacasli, rosea, git hago, 

purple, white, striped, &c. lacta, etc., 1 

Salpiglossis. variegated, purple, &c., Salpiglossis, atro purpurea, 2 to 3 
Saphonaria, or Silene, rose, Sapfionaria vaccaria, 2 to 3 

■\ Schizanthus, in variety, orange, Sctiizanthus retusus, pinnatus, 

wing-leaved, &c., 
§ Sensitive Plant, red, 
Shortia, yellow, 

§ Stevia, Vanilla scented, white 
Stock fiilly, Virginian, lilac. 
Strawberry Spinach, red fruit, 
Strephtanthus, rose-coloured, 
Sunflower, yellow. 
Sunflower, dwarf, yellow, 
Sun Rose, spotted, 

* Sweet Balm, blue, 

* Sweet Basil, blush, lilac. 
Sweet Sultan, white, yellow, put 

* Ten Week Stock, scarlet, purple, Mathiola annua varieties grcR- 

white, &c., ca, tenella, etc, 1 to 2 

5> Tobacco in varieties, scarlet, yellow, Nicotiana, tahacum, rustica, 3 to 4 
Touch me not, yellow, [&c., Noli mi tangere, i 

Trefoil, crimson and scented, Trifolium incamatum, etc., 3 to 4 



obtusifoUa, etc.. 


1 to 2 


Mimoso sensitiva, ; 


under 1 


Shortia Californica, 


lto2 


Stevia serrata. 


1 to 2 


Malcomia maritima, 


1 


Blitum cnpitalun>, 


1 to 2 


Sfreptanthus obtusifolius, 


2 to 3 


Helianthus annuus, 


6 to 8 


Helianthus minor, nanus, 


2 to 3 


Helinnthemum guttatum, 


1 to 2 


Melissa odnratum. 


1 to 2 


Ocymurn basiliacum, 


1 to 2 


Centaurea moschata, etc., 


1 to2 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 21 

§ Denotes tender. t perennial. * Difficult to transplant. 

Feet high. 

* Venus's Looking-Glass, lilac, Campanula speculum, 1 to 2 

Vesicaria, in varieties, yellow, Vesicaria grandifiora, etc., 2 to 3 

+ Verbena, in varieties, scarlet, rose, Verbena aubletia, bonariensis, 

blue, lilac, pink, &c., Drummondii, pulchella, etc, 1 to 3 

Zinnia, scarlet, yellow, violet-colour- Zinnia coccinta, latea, grandi- 

ed, red, &c., flora, rubra, etc., 2 to 3 

The following are climbing and trailing plants, which should 
be planted in situations where they can be supported by poles, 
twine, or trellises. 

The tallest growing vines and creepers are best adapted 
to the covering of arbours, to create shade, or conceal any 
unsightly object ; the procumbent trailing and low climbing 
plants, such as the Nasturtium, Loasa, ^Petunia, Sweet Pea, 
&c., may be trained on trellis-work of an ornamental form, as 
that of a fan, balloon, or pyramid, which should be on a scale 
corresponding to the situation and extent of the garden. 

Feet high. 

Balloon Vine, or Love in a PufF, Cardiospermum halicacabum,over 10 

§ Balsam Apple and Pear, Momordica balsamina, over 10 

Bean Hyacinth, white and purple, Dolichos a!ba, purpurea, owerlO 

§ Bean, scarlet flowering, Phaseolus multifiorus, over\0 

Bean, Castor Oil, or Palma Christi, Ricinus communis, 5 to 6 

§ Cypress Vine, scarlet and white, Ipomcea coccinea, alba, over ]0 

Gourd, Mock Orange, in varieties, Cucurbita hicolor, aurantia, over 10 

Gourd, the Bottle, in varieties, Cucurbita lagenaria, elcvata, 10 

^ Loasa or Chillian Nettle, orange, Loasa lateritia aurantiaca,etc.,3 to 6 

Maurandia, blue, Maurandia Barclayana, overXQ 

% Morning Glory, scarlet striped, &c., Ipomcea coccinea, atriata, etc., over 10 

Morning Glory, of the Convolvulus Convolvulus major, purpurea, 

tribe, purple, striped, yellow, pink, ccerulea. striata, liitea, incar- 

white, &c., nata, alba, etc., over 10 

Nasturtium, orange and crimson, Troposolum atrosanguineum, 

variegated, nana, etc., 4 to 6 

^Thunbergia. wing-leaved, purple, Thunbergia alata, etc., 4 to 6 

f Petunia, purple, white, rose, &c.. Petunia nyctaginiflora, etc., 2 to 3 

Sweet Peas, various complexions. Latfiyrus odoratus, var. alba, 

white, purple, red, ro.se, ftriped,&c. purpurea, rosea, striata, etc., 3 to 4 

As many city gardens are so limited as not to admit of an 
extensive assortment of flowers, a select list may be made 
from the above catalogue, to suit the taste of such as may be 
so situated; and amateurs, who cultivate on a larger scale. 



22 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 

can obtain such additional sorts as may be desired at the 
different seed stores, under their various names. 

Previous to providing annnal flower seed, the cultivator 
should lay out a plan of his garden, and in making allotments 
of ground for any particular purpose, provision should be 
made for a select assortment of such bulbous, tuberous, and 
perennial plants, as may be deemed most worthy of attention, 
not forg-ettine to leave room for some of the choicest varieties 
of the Dahlia, the qualities of which will be described hereafter. 

Another consideration is, to have at hand suitable imple- 
ments, so that the work may be performed in a skillful man- 
ner, and at the proper season. A spade, rake, hoe, trowel, 
drilling machine, and pruning knife, may be deemed essen- 
tial; and in order to have the beds laid out, with the edges 
straight and even, a garden line should be in readiness. If 
labels should be required, they may be made of shingles, 
which being split into strips about an inch wide, and sharp- 
ened at one end, will serve for marking distinct kinds, either 
in pots, or on the borders. In order to have the names or 
numbers written in legible characters, the labels should be 
painted on the smooth side with white lead, and then marked 
with a black lead pencil before the paint gets dry ; inscrip- 
tions made in this way will be as durable as the label itself. 

The next, and perhaps the most important consideration, 
is, to have the ground in good condition to receive the seed. 
In order to attain this desirable object, let some good rich 
compost, or very old manure, be provided and well mixed 
with the soil ; dig it a full spit deep, pulverizing every parti- 
cle. It would be an advantage if the ground could be dug 
to a great depth at the dealing up of winter, and then again 
at the period of sowing seed in the Spring : 

" I come, I come — ye have called me long — 
I come o'er the mountains with light and song! 
Ye may trace my steps o'er the wakening earth, 
By the winds which tell of the Violet's birth, 
By the Primnise-stars in the shadowy grass, 
By the green leaves opening as I pass." ^ 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 23 

A mellow loam, which is a medium earth between the 
extremes of clay and sand, enriched with pulverized manure 
or compost, is adapted to the generality of flowering plants ; 
ground, however, of a boggy nature, composed of black 
earth, decayed leaves, &c., and in a low situation, is essen- 
tial to the luxuriant growth of amphibious plants, as Water 
Lilies, Iris, Lobelia, and the like ; but as the cultivator has 
not always a choice, he may select such plants only as are 
most congenial to his peculiar soil and situation. 

Previous to digging flower beds or borders, care must be 
taken that they are so arranged that the ground may be a 
little elevated in the middle ; this is essential to the draining 
off of a redundancy of water, as well as to the exhibition of 
plants to the greatest possible advantage. 

All kinds of annual flower seed may be sown in the months 
of April and May, on borders or beds of pulverized earth ; 
the beds should be levelled, and the seed sown either in small 
patches, each kind by itself, or in drills, from an eighth to 
half an inch deep, according to the size or nature of the 
seed. Lupins, Peas, &c., should be planted about half an 
inch deep. Those who would have their plants flower early, 
should sow the hardy kinds the last week in March, or early 
in April. Those varieties marked thus t, and thus §, may 
be sown in boxes, or pots of light earth, at the same time. 
These, if exposed to the sun every day, and sheltered in 
cold nights, will be forwarded in growth, and be fit to trans- 
plant early in June. Those marked * may also be sown in 
small pots ; and as these plants will not bear transplanting, 
they should be turned out of the pots with the balls of earth 
entire, and placed in the ground where they are intended 
to flower ; or, if the seed be sown in a bed with other kinds, 
they should be carefuUy transplanted with a trowel, without 
disturbing their roots. 

The most ehgible way to obtain early flowers is to prepare 
a shght hot-bed for the tender kinds, (see Calendar for Janu- 
ary,) and either plunge the pots therein up to their brims. 



24 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 

or sow the seed in the earth in shallow drills, not more than 
a quarter of ar, inch deep. It may be necessary to state, 
that although, in favourable seasons, flower seed in general 
will come up in from one to three weeks after it is sown, 
the seed of the Cypress vine will not grow until settled warm 
weather, unless in a hot-bed ; it should be soaked for about 
half an hour in moderately warm water, previous to being 
sown. 

If some of the hardy annuals be sown in September, they 
will grow large enough to survive the winter, if slightly 
covered with straw or litter ; and if plants thus raised be 
transplanted early in the spring, they will produce very early 
flowers. The following are some of the hardiest : 

Alyssum, Sweet. Evening Primrose. 

Coreopsis, or Calliopsis. Larkspur, in varieties. 

China Aster, in varieties. Pansy, or Heart's Ease. 

Catch Fly. Poppy, in varieties. 

Chrysanthemum, in varieties. Rocket Larkspur. 

To prevent disappointment, I would recommend that great 
care be taken to keep the seed beds as clear from weeds as 
possible. It cannot be denied that young plants are apt to 
get smothered, and sometimes pulled up with weeds. To 
obviate this, I would suggest that the seed be sown in shallow- 
drills, each kind by itself, and that an account be kept of the 
contents of each drill in a book ; also of all seed that are 
sown at difierent times ; and by being particular in the dates, 
you may always know when to expect your plants to come 
up. Those persons totally unacquainted with plants, will, 
by this means, be enabled to identify each particular kind, 
and thus become familiarly acquainted with them.* In order 

* Lest the reader should think that the author is here shifting his own 
duty and responsibility on the cultivator, it may be necessary to observe 
that a definition of all the peculiar qualities, forms, attitudes, and habits 
of growth, of the numerous species and varieties of plants embraced in au 
CA'tensive catalogue, with minute directions for the most appropriate cnllure 
uf t-acli, would alone occupy more space than is allotted to this treatise ; 
and that to exjintiate on all the various features of the floral kingdom is a 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 2D 

that this may be rendered plain to my readers, I shall adopt 
the following plan of entry of six kinds sown in pots, and 
six in the open ground : 

April 20, sowed flower seed in pots. 

Pot marked A, or 1 , Amaranthus tricolor. 

" B, or 2, Balsamines. 

" C, or 3, Cockscomb. 

" D, or 4, Egg Plant. 

" E, or 5, Ice Plant. 

" F, or 6, Mignonette. 

These pots may be either marked with letters or figures 
on the outside, to answer with the book, or notches may be 
cut in wood, or other labels affixed to the pots, and entered 
accordingly. 

April 30, sowed flower seed in drills, as under : 

No. 1, Bladder Ketmia. 

" 2, Coreopsis Tinctoria. 

" 3, Yellow Eternal Flower. 

I " 4, Globe Amaranthus. 

" 5, Princes' Feather. 

" 6, Larkspur, branching. 

If these numbers be continued to 100, or even 1,000, there 
can be no mistake, provided the rows are all marked accord- 
ing to the entry in the book ; or if No. 1 be noted, plain 
sticks will answer afterward, if one be stuck at each end of 
every row. In this case it would be well to leave a space 
every ten or twenty rows, and note the number of rows ; by 
this means, they can be more easily traced. 

task which no author has ever attempted ; nor can any library be found 
containing such a desideratum. 

The cultivator of a small garden may, however, by means of a memo- 
randum book, riescribe the peculiarities of such plants as come under his 
special care, as upright, procumbent, trailing, climbing, bushy, slender- 
stalked, herbaceous, shrubby, &c., and thus learn how to cultivate and 
arrange the same, or similar plants, advantageously in succeeding years ; 
and it must be admitted that a few flowers, .-elected so as to harmonize in 
their colours and habits of growth, cultivated with precision, as respects 
soil and situation congenial to them, and trained and pruned into regular 
and compact shapes, will yield more pleasure and amusement than three 
times the number ta!;en promiscuously and cultivated under one uniform 
treatment, as is the general, though not most judicious, practice. 



2*5 ANNUAL FLOWHR SEED. 

Some species of Dwarf Annuals, such as Sweet Alyssumv 
Candytuft, Clarkia Pulchella, Mignonette, Pimpernell, and 
such others as grow not over a foot in height, may be culti- 
vated in small beds, either separate or two or three kinds 
mixed together. Clarkia Pulchella suits very well with 
Mignonette, as it will thrive in moderately poor soil, which is 
the best adapted for that plant when fragrance is an object.* 

The best way to manage the mixed species, is to level a 
narrow border of rather poor soil, and sow it all over with 
Mignonette, then with Clarkia Pulchella ; when the plants 
are up, both kinds should be thinned out equally, so as to 
leave the plants from one to two inches apart all over the 
bed ; these, when they come into blossom, will form a rich 
mass, and have a very pretty effect, the bushiness of the 
Mignonette hiding the naked stalks of the Clarkia. The 
White Alyssum and Purple Candytuft form a pleasing con- 
trast when mixed in equal proportions, and also the Dw'arf 
Gilia and Blue Pimpernell. 

The new species of Dwarf Annual Phlox, {Phlox Drum- 
mondii,) are described in a London Magazine as a splendid 
sight when cultivated in a bed. " Every flower, though of 
the deepest carmine, has its petals of a pale blush colour on 
the under side, and every petal, though of the palest pink, 
has a dark carmine spot at its base. Thus the variety of 
colours displayed in a bed of these flowers, almost exceeds 
description ; and when they are seen under a bright sun, and 
agitated by a gentle breeze, the effect is extraordinarily 
briUiant." 

When seed are intended to be sown in patches, which is 
often done for want of an unoccupied border, the best way 

* The reason that some Mignonette has scarcely any scent is, because 
the soil in which it is cultivated is too rich ; and this leads me to remark 
farther, that what some call Tree Mignonette, and admire on account of its 
fragrance, is not a distinct variety, but the ordinary kind, cultivated as a 
perennial plant. It may be propagated by cuttings, and trained so as to 
foi'm a tree ; which being transplanted into poor ground, v.'ill yield more 
fragrance than when grown as an annual in a rich compost. 



ANrajAL FLOWER SEED. 



27 



lo perform this business is, after having pulverized the soil, 
to impress circular drills in the surface with the rim of a 
flower pot, which may be large or small, according to fancy. 
By sowing seed in such circular drills, the plants can be more 
easily traced than when scattered promiscuously over the 
gTOund, and the weeds can be destroyed with less risk and 
trouble. Such kinds as are marked in the Catalogue thus * 
may remain as sown, or, if parted, they should be removed 
with a scoop trowel in a careful manner, in small tufts ; and 
this business, as well as transplanting in general, should 
always be done immediately preceding or after rain, and in 
cloudy weather.t 

Herbaceous plants in general will not flower well if gi'own 
in clusters; they should, therefore, be thinned or trans- 
planted into the regular beds, at all favourable opportunities, 
after they get about an inch in height ; and as there is always 
a risk of some plants not taking root, it is safest to plant a 
few of each sort every time, taking care to diversify the 
colours, and also to leave a few plants in the seed beds, for 
the purpose of substituting in the room of such plants whose 
period of flowering may be over ; as is the case generally 
with early Perennial plants and bulbs, at about the season 
that the last of the Annuals are fit to remove. 

The transplanting may be done with a small trowel, or a 
neat dibble made for the purpose. 

t The risk and trouble of transplanting may be avoided by adopting the fol- 
lowing method of sowing the seed. Take a dollar package of twenty varieties, 
and number the bags from one to twenty ; then sow a circle from each bag 
in the order in which they are numbered, and insert a short stick in the 
centre of each circle as a mark. By this method the twenty varieties are 
distributed along the border in succession, and as each bag will be sufficient 
for three circles, sixty circles, or three assortments of twenty varieties, may 
be sown in three different aspects of the garden, which will not only give 
tiie various flowers the best possible chance with regard to exposure, but 
show the varieties to the greatest possible advantage. By preserving the 
bags, the mere novice, by referring to the name and number on each, will 
become acquainted with the different varieties, from the order in which they 
stand in his garden. This system may be practised to advantage either on 
a large or small scale. 



28 



PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS 



TO THE CATALOGUE OF 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED. 



The remarks preceding our Catalogue of Annuals will, 
with few exceptions, apply to that of Biennials and Peren- 
nials ; and it may be observed farther, that the circulation of 
the sap in the roots and stalk of plants is influenced by like 
causes, and subject to the same vicissitudes, as the germin- 
ation of seed, which principle is exemplified by some plants 
of various species putting forth their leaves and flowei's at a 
later period than others in the same location, as if waiting 
for nature to I'eplenish the earth with food adapted to their 
respective requirements; which, by the gradual changes from 
cool to temperate, and from that to warm weather, is effected 
to that degree as to enable all the various species of plants, 
collected from every climate and soil under the sun, to reward 
the industrious cultivator by a gradual exhibition of their fasci- 
nating blossoms, and a distribution of their odoriferous sweets, 
throughout the three propitious seasons of the year, i. e., 
spring, summer, and autumn. 

In distinguishing between Biennials and Perennials, I have 
only marked such as are apt to die after once blossoming, 
and which can only be renewed from seed. Some of those 
species, frequently classed with Biennials, as Jlquilegia oi 
Columbines, Dianihus, &c., are in reality Perennial, and 
may be easily perpetuated from year to year, by suckers, lay- 
ers, or any of the ordinary methods of propagation ; and heie 
I would observe, that frequent renewal of the roots of Per- 
ennials is absolutely necessary to their prospeiity or very 
existence; and also that many species are by Ujatui'e best 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 



29 



adapted for propagation at the footstalks, from iheir yielding 
little or no seed at the top of the plant. This is particularly 
the case with choice double-flowering plants, the roots of 
which, in many cases, constitute the seed; these, consequently, 
must be perpetuated by root offsets, cuttings, &c. 

The annexed Catalogue embraces a great proportion of 
the most desirable of what are termed fibrous-rooted herba- 
ceous plants ; the seed or roots of which may be obtained at 
seed stores and nurseries. The estimated height applies to 
plants of a year's growth; some will arrive to more than 
three times that height when cultivated in a greenhouse, and 
even in open ground culture the same plants will vary con- 
siderably, according to the soil or situation in which they are 
grown ; the specified height however, although unavoidably 
imperfect, may serve as a guide to the gardener in arranging 
his flower beds. Those marked thus t, being tender and half 
hardy, will need protection in the winter ; those marked thus || 
are Biennial; those marked thus* yield httle or no seed. 
There are also many other species of which the seed is un- 
attainable, from its being suffered to scatter by the wind, and 
in some cases, from the cHmate being unfavourable to its 
ripening ; these, as will be shown hereafter, may be perpetu- 
ated by other methods. 



30 



A Catalogue 



Biennial and perennial flower seed. 

Graines de fleurs hisannuelhs et vivaces. 



t Denotes tender. D Biennial. 



Seed unattainable. 



Adonis, Spring-flowering, yellow, 
Alpine Columbine, purple, 
Alyssum, yellow, 
Asclepias, orange, purple, &c., 
Asiatic Globe Flower, yellow, 
fAuricuia, variegated, 
tBalm of Gilead, fragrant, 
Bee Larkspur, blue and brown, 
Bergamot, crimson, blue, 
*tCanary Aster, purple, 
fCalceolaria, various colours, 
Campanula Peren., blue, white, &c., 
llCanterbury Bells, blue, white, 
+ Caper Tree, green. 
Cardinal Kiower, in varieties, scarlet. 
Cassia, Maryland, yellow, 
tCarnation Pink, various colours, 
*-l-Celcia, red and yellow, variegated, 
Chinese Imperial Pink, variegated, 
fChinese Primrose, lilac, white, 
tCistus, yellow, 
tCIandanthus, white, 
tClerodendron, scarlet, 
Clove Imperial Pink, crimson, 
tColutea, scarlet, 
•Coreopsis, Perennial, in varieties, 

yellow, 
•fCoronilla, yellow, 
*Coronet, or double Lychnis, scarlet, 
llClary, purple-topped, 
Columbine, various colours, 
*tDaisy, Garden, various colours, 
Dragon's Head, bluish pink. 
Dragon's Head, purple and striped, 
European Globe Flower, yellow, 
11 Evening Primrose, yellow, 
Eupatoiium, blue, white, 
llFox-glove, purple, white> 



Adonis vernalis, 
Aquilegia alpina, 
Alyssum saxatile, 
Asclepias incarnata, etc., 
Trollius Asiaticus, 



Feet high. 

2to3 

lta2 

1 

2 to 3 

3 to 4 



Priviula auricula, under 1 

Dracncephalum canariense, 1 

Btlphinium elatura, 4 to 6 

Monarda Kalndana, didyma, 2 to 3 
Cineraria amelloides, 1 

Calceolaria variabilis, 2 to 3 

Canipanula persicafolia, etc 2 to 3 
Campanula medium, 2 to 3 

Euphorbia lathyrus, 2 to 3 

Lobelia cardinalis, etc-, 3 to 4 

Cassia Marylandica , 3 to 4 

Bianthus caryophyllus, 1 to 2 

Celcia orientalis, 1 to 2 

Bianthus Chinensis, 1 to 2 

Prim,ula. Chinensis, under 1 

Cistus gultatus, I to 2 

CUmdanthus arabicus, 2 to 3 

Clerodendron speciosum, 4 to 5 

Bianthus hortensis, 1 to 2 

Siit'ierlandia frutescens, 2 to 3 

Callinpsis grandiflora, lanceola- 

tum, auriculata, etc., 2 to 3 

Coru?iilla glauca, 2 to 3 

Lychnis coronata, 2 to 3 

Salvia sclara, 1 to 2 

Aquilegia vulgaris, 1 to 2 

Bellis perennis, horteiisis, under 1 
Dracocephalum Virginianum, 3 to 4 
Bracncephalum argumense, etc. 1 to 2 
Trollius Europaeus, 2 to 3 

(Enothera biennis, 3 to 4 

Eupatorium cerulea, etc., 2 to 3 

Digitalis purpurea, alba, 3 to 4 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 



31 



■f Denotes tender. 

Fraxinella. red, white, 
Gentian, purple, yellow, white, 
Gentian, porcelain-flowered, 
tGeranium, various colours, 
Globe Thistle, purple, 
tHepatica, blue, pink, 
Hibiscus, pink, white, purple. 



n Biennial. * Seed unattainable. 

Feet high. 
Bictamnus rubra, alba, 1 to 2 

Goitiana purpurea, lutea, etc, 1 
Gentiana adscendenSi 2 to 3 

Pelargonium zonule, 2 to 3 

Echinops sphcerocephalus, 2 to 3 

Anemone hepatica, under 1 

Hibiscus palustris,speciosus, etc. 3 to 4 



Hollyhock, Antwerp, China, and Althea flora Chinensis, Anglica, 



English, of various colours, 
i|Honesty, or Satin Flower, blush, 
tindian Shot, yellow, scarlet, 
til Ipomop.sis, scarlet. 
Ivy-leaved Toad Flax, pink, 
Jacob's Ladder, blue, 
t Jerusalem Cherry, red fruit, 



etc., 
Lunaria biennis, 
Canna Indica, lutea, coccinea, 
Ipoinopsis elegans, 
Lunaria, cymbalaria, 
Polemonium ceruleum. 
Solarium pseudu, capsicum. 



Larkspur, Perennial, purple, pink, Delphinium grandiflorum, pe- 



white, &c., 
*Liatris, long spiked, purple, 
*Lily of the Valley, white, 
tLotus, brown, 
tLisianthus, scarlet, 

blue, 



rennis, 
Liatris spicata. elegans, etc., 
Convalleria majalis, 
Lotus jacobeus, 
Lisiunttms Russellianus, 



4 to 5 

2 to 3 
lto2 

3 to 4 

1 to2 
lto2 

2 to 3 

2 to 3 

3 to 4 

1 

2 to 3 
2 to 3 



tLupin, Perennial, blue, white, Lupinus perennis, mutabilis, 

changeable, &c., variabilis, etc., 2 to 3 

*Lychnidea, or American Phlox, lilac. Phlox puniculala accuminata 



purple, red, white, &c., 
*Lychnidea, early, pink, &c., 
♦Lychnis, Mountain, variegated, 
Lychnis, scarlet, 
London Pride, variegated, 
■j-Mesembryanthemum, variegated, 

yellow, white, purple, &c., 
*tMexican Sage, scarlet, 
Monk's Hood, white, blue, &c,, 

MonkeyFlower, yellow, purple spots, Mimulus ringens, luteus, etc. 
^Oleander, pink, white, Nerium Oleander, 



pyramidalis, odorata, etc., 3 to 4 
Phlox subulata, stolotiifera, etc. 1 to 2 
Lychnis Alpina, 1 to 2 

Lychnis Chalcedonica, 3 to 4 

Bianthus deltoides, ' 1 

Mesembryanthemum acinaci- 

foroie, spectabile, tricolor, etc., 1 to 2 
Salvia splendens, 2 to 3 

Aconitum album, versicolor, etc. 4 to 6 

1 to 2 

2 to 3 



*Pardanthus, Chinese, orange, Pardatithiis Chinensis, 1 to -3 

Pentstemon, purple. . Pentstemon campanulata, 2 to 3 

Perennial Flax, purple, Liniim pei-emiis 2 to 3 

+Periwinkle,iVIadagascar, rose, white, Vinca rosea, alba, 1 to 2 

Pink, Pheasant-eyed, varie2tated, Bitmlhu^ plumarius, under 1 

tPolyanthus, variable and splendid. Primula polyanthus. under 1 

Poppy, Perennial, red, yellow, Papaver orientuie, bracteaia, 2 to 3 

Potentilla, rose, puce, yellow, PotentUlaformoso, splendens, 1 to 2 

+ l!Pyramidal Bell Flower, blue, Campanula pyramidalis, 3 to 4 

*Queen of the Meadows, white, rose, Spiraea ulniaria, lobata, etc, 3 to 4 

*Ragged Robin, or Red Lychnis, Agrostemma flus cucula, 1 to 2 

Rocket, Garden, purple, Hesperis matronalis.. 9 to 3 

[Rose Campion, or Mullen Pink, Agrostemma coronaria, rosea, 

rose, white, &c., alba, etc, 2 to 3 



32 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 



t Denotes tender. D Biennial. * Seed unattainable. 

Feet faiglL- 
Rudbeckia, yellow, purple, Rudbeckia, liitea, purpurea, 3 to 4 

Saphonaria, rose blush, Snphonaria officinalis, etc., 1 to 2 

•Saxifrage, rose white, purple, Saxifraga umbroso,cras&ifolia, 1 

l|Snapdragon, white, red, variegated, Antirrhinum bicolor, versicolor, 

in several splendid varieties, coccinea, sparii.um, etc., 1 to 2 

Sophora, white, blue, &c., Snphora alba, autralis, 2 to 3 

tllStock Gilliflower, numerous varie- Mathiola inramis, coccinea,alba, 

ties, scarlet, white, purple, striped, purpurea, striata, etc, 1 to 2 

•Sunflower, yellow, Helianfhusperennis,alfissimus, 3 to 4i 

llSweet Scabious, purple, brown, Scabiosa atro, purpurea, etc., 2 to 3 



Sweet William, various colours, 
*Thrift, pink and red, 
Valerian, Garden, red, white. 
Valerian, Sweet-scented, blue, 
Veronica, variegated, blue, 
*Violet, Fragrant, white, blue, &c., 
•^Wallflower, bloody, yellow, 
*tWallflower, double perennial, 
+ 11 Wall-leaved Stock Gilliflower, 
*Windflower, various colours, 
Yucca, or Adam's Needle, white. 



Dianthus barbutus, 1 to 2 

Staiice vulgaris, speciosa, under 1 
Valeriana rubra, alba, 2 to 3 

Polumonium cerulea, 3 to 4 

Veronica variegata, cerulea, 2 to 3 
Viola odorata, alba, cerulea, under 1 
Cherianthus cheiri, I to 2 

Cheiranthus perennis, 1 to 2 

Cheiranthus glaber, 1 to 2 

Anemone coronaria. 1 to 2 

Yucca filamentoca, gloriosa, etc. 3 to 4 



CLIMBING PLANTS. 

[For the other hsts of Climbing Plants, see Catalogue of 
Flowering and Ornamental Shrubs ; also the Catalogue of 
Annuals.! 



Calampelis, orange, 
tClimbing Cobea, dark purple. 
Everlasting Peas, pink, 
llFrench Honeysuckle, white, red, 
tl ophospermum, pink, 
^Passion Flower, various colours, 



Eccremocarpus scabra, over 6 

Cobea scandens, over 20 

Latlnjrus laiifolius, rosea, over 10 
Hsdysarum coronnrium, etc, over 6 
Lophospermum scandens, over 6 
Passijlora incarnala, etc., over 20 



The reader is here reminded that our Catalogue of Annual 
Flower Seed contains a few varieties of Perennials, which 
were there introduced because of their aptness to blossom 
the first season of the seed being sown ; these, with those 
marked t in the last Catalogue, may be sown and treated in 
the manner recommended for tender Annuals. Those in- 
tended to be cultivated as green-house plants, should be 
taken up before the approach of cold weather, transplanted 



BIENNIAL AND PEliEKI.IAL FLOWERS. 33 

into flower-pots, and sheltered either in a garden-fi-ame, 
green-house, or light room. Those plants with tuberous 
roots, such as Dahlias, Marvel of Peru, and also some others 
of the Bean and Pea tribe, may be cut down late in the au- 
tumn, and the roots taken up and preserved in the same 
manner as those of other tuberous and bulbous-rooted plants, 
of which I shall treat hereafter. 

Hardy Biennial and Perennial flower seed may be sown 
in the month of April, in shallow drills. If this business be 
performed in the manner recommended for Annuals, they 
can be easily distinguished from each other; and as these 
plants do not flower the first year, they may be thinned out, 
or removed from the seed-beds as soon as they are well 
rooted, and planted either in different parts of the flower- 
beds, or in a nursery-bed. If the latter plan be adopted. 
they should be planted in rows a foot or more apart, and 
kept free from weeds by means of a small hoe, which will 
gieatly promote their growth, and prepare them for trans- 
planting into the regular and permanent blossoming-beds, 
either in the autumn or early in the ensuing spring. 

It may be here observed that Biennials seldom survive the 
second winter to flower in perfection, unless they az'e renewed 
by cuttings of top shoots, young flower stalks, or casual off*- 
sets, layers, &c. It will be unnecessary to take this trouble, 
unless with some extraordinary double-flowering plants. 
Some of the Perennials may be increased by root offsets 
detached from the old plants, and planted in spring or au- 
tumn ; others by bottom suckers and slips of top shoots, 
layers, pipings of young shoots, &c. Pinks, Sweet Williams, 
Pansies, and double Violets, also Periwinkle, or running 
Myrtle, and many other similar plants, may be increased by 
simply laying their branches an inch or two under the sur- 
face, in July and August. After roots have formed, which 
may be expected in six or eight weeks, each tuft or plant 
may be transplanted into the borders. 

Many sorts of Biennial and Perennial flower seed may be 



34 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

sown in September, or as soon as ripe ; and if the plants get 
strong before winter sets in, some of them will flower the 
ensuing summei'. The following are among the hardiest : 

Adonis, Spring-flowering. Lychnis, in varieties. 

Alpine Columbine. Larkspur, perennial. 

Alyssum, yeilow. Rose Campion, in varieties. 

Bee Larkspur. Rocket, in varieties. 

Columbine, in varieties. Scabious, in varieties. 

Evening Primrose. Valerian, Garden. 

Fox-glove, in varieties. Veronica. 

Fraxinella. Everlasting Peas, ^ ,. 

Hollyhock, in varieties. Virgin's Bower, 3 clmibmg. 

It may be necessary here to remind the reader of those 
species of beautiful double-flowering Perennial herbaceous 
plants, which do not produce seed ; some of these are in- 
cluded in our Catalogue ; they may be obtained at the nur- 
series, and should be introduced into the regular flower-beds, 
either in autumn or early in the spring ; the best mode of 
increasing these, and all double-flowering Perennials raised 
from seed, is by layers, cuttings, offsets, &c., detached from 
the old plants.* 

As the earth in the flower-beds will require to be fresh 
dug and replenished with good compost or manure once in 
two or three years, it may be necessary to take up all the 
Perennial plants at such times. Such roots as are overgrown 
should be deprived of their surplus offsets, and either planted 
in a nursery-bed, or returned with the parent plants into the 



* It may here be observed, that the most certain method of obtaining dou- 
ble flowers, is by propagation from Perennial plants. Many seed custom- 
ers feel disappointed if they do not in every case procure double flowers from 
seed, which is unreasonable, because, although seed will, under ordinary 
circumstances, reproduce its species, it will by no means uniformly pro- 
duce the particular variety by which it was borne. The experience of 
numerous amateurs will corroborate this fact, who frequently, after saving 
seed from their most perfect flowers, have the mortification of witness- 
ing such degeneracy the following season as would lead them to doubt 
its identity, had the seed been obtained from any other source. Seed gath- 
ered from double Balsams, or Lady Slippers, for instance, will frequently 
produce semi-double and single flowers the next season. 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 35 

regnlar flower-beds ; they should be inserted a little deeper 
than before, and the fine fresh earth distributed well about 
the fibres. 

In removing plants into the beds where they are intended 
to blossom, great pains should be taken to preserve some of 
the earth to their roots. The gi'ound should be previously 
brought into good condition, so that they may strike freely, 
and produce their flowers in perfection. The plants should 
be so arranged that they may all be seen, the most dwarfish 
being placed in front, and the taller kinds in regular grada- 
tions behind ; or the tallest may be planted along the middle 
of the beds, and the others on each side, according to their 
varied heights and colours. 

Thei'e is no part of gardening which requires so much 
the exercise of taste and fancy, as in setting off" a border or 
bed of intermixed flowers to advantage. In association with 
other flowers, the different kinds of hardy bulbs may be 
planted in small clumps of six, seven, or eight inches in 
diameter, three, four, five, or more roots in each, according 
to their size and growth, and these at suitable distances from 
each other. Likewise obseive to diversify the kinds and 
colours, so as to display, when in bloom, the greatest possi- 
ble variety of shades and contrasts. 

If green -house plants be plunged into the flower borders 
in the month of May, they Avill not only tend to ornament 
the garden by their diversity of foliage and blossom, but the 
roots will i-eceive a more uniform supply of moisture, than 
if the pots were exposed to the sun and wind : care should, 
however, be taken to give the different species a situation 
suitable for them. Hydrangeas, Primulas, Daisies, Olean- 
ders, Camellias, China Roses, and half-hardy plants in gene- 
ral, thrive best in a moderately shaded situation. Gerani- 
ums, Jasmines, Heliotropes, &c., may be plunged in a sunny 
situation, provided they be regularly supplied with wa,ter. 
Many species planted for ornament in the flower borders, 
may at the same time be propagated by layers. The Fuchsia 



36 BIENNI4L AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

or Ear-drop, Passion Flower, Heliotrope, Carnation, Petu- 
nia, running Verbena, &c., will, if layed in June or July, 
exhibit their blossoms in perfection, and yield young plants, 
which being preserved through winter, may be used to re- 
plenish flower-beds the ensuing spring* 

* In some countries the wealthy have changeable flower gardens, which 
are so arranged that their productions can be changed at pleasure, so that 
whenever any plant, or group of plants, begins to decay, it can be removed, 
and its place supplied by others coming into bloom. To effect this, a large 
reserve-nursery is requisite, in which the plants must be kept in pots, and 
removed and plunged in the borders as wanted. Sir W- Chambers informs 
us that the Chinese excel in this mode of gardening ; and that he has 
known a mandarin (or noble) to have the whole furniture and style of his 
parterre changed in a single night, so as to present next morning not only 
a different description of flowers, shrubs, and dwarf trees, but a different 
arrangement of the beds and compartments. Something of the same kind 
is practised in the gardens of the Tuileries, in Paris ; in sortie of the im- 
perial gardens at Petersburgh, and in the vice-royal gardens at Monza. 
Gardens of this description admit of a very perfect arrangement of the 
flowers, whether in the mingled manner, in select groups, or according to 
the natural method. It is only with such resources that a flower gar- 
dener can " paint his way," as Sir W. Chambers says the Chinese artists 
do, " not scattering their flowers indiscriminately about their borders, but 
disposing of them with great circumspection along the skirts of the plant- 
ations, or other places where flowers are to be introduced. They reject all 
that are of a straggling growth, and of harsh colours and poor foliage, 
choosing only such as are of some duration, grow either large or in clus- 
ters, are of beautiful forms, well leaved, and of tints that harmonize with the 
greens that surround them. They avoid all sudden transitions, both with 
regard to dimension and colour, rising gradually from the smallest flowers 
to those of the boldest growth; and varying their tints, by easy gradations, 
from white, straw-colour, purple, and incarnate, to the deepest blues, and 
most brilliant crimsons and scarlets. They frequently blend several roots 
together, whose leaves and flowers unite, and compose one rich, harmoni- 
ous mass ; such as the white and purple Candytuft, Larkspurs, and Mal- 
lows of various colours, double Poppies, Lupins, Primroses. Pinks, and 
Carnations ; with many more of which the forms and colours accord with 
each other ; and the same method they use with flowering shrubs, blending 
white, red. and variegated roses together, purple and white lilacs, yellow 
and white jasmines, altheas of various sorts, and as many others as they 
can with any propriety unite. By these mixtures they increase considera- 
bly the variety and baauty of their compartments. In their large planta- 
tions, the flowers generally grow in the natural ground ; but in flower gar- 
dens, and all other parts that are highly kept, they are in pots buried in 
the ground, which, as fast as the bloom goes otT, are removed, and others 
are brought to supply their places ; so that there is a constant succession 
for almost every month in the year ; and the flowers are never seen but in 
the height of their beauty." — London',' Encyclopoedia of Gardening. 



BIENNIAL Arro PERENNIAL PLANTS. 37 

It may be observed farther, that established plants will 
always produce their blossoms earlier and stronger in the 
spring, than those recently transplanted ; it should, there- 
fore, be an object with gardeners to do the business of form- 
ing permanent flower-beds and of transplanting hardy Peren- 
nial and Biennial plants, in September or October. 

The hardy bulbous roots must also be planted in October 
or November, which on being properly preserved through 
the winter, will embellish the parterre in spring by their 
early and First Flowers. 

" First flowers of the spring time, 

Bright gems of the year. 
All lovely and blooming. 

How fresh ye appear ; 
Springing up in the garden, 

The hedge-row and vale, 
Enriched by the showers. 

And fann'd by the gale." 

In my preliminary observations, I directed the attention 
of my readers to some important points respecting walks, 
edgings, &c. Although box is superior to any thing else 
for edgings, yet, in extensive gardens, dwarf plants of vari- 
ous kinds may be used for such purpose. Thrift is the neat- 
est small evergreen next to box ; but Violets, Pinks, Peri- 
winkle, Pansy, Iris, Stone Crop, or even Parsley, Thyme, 
Strawberry plants, &c., may be used for the sake of diver- 
sity. These will require frequent watering and trimming, 
and the Thrift, &c., should be sometimes taken up, divided 
at the I'oots, and replanted. 

Box edgings will also require frequent pruning and trim- 
ming ; and once in from seven to ten years the whole may 
be taken up, divided, and replanted, and the surplus slips 
may be planted in a nursery-bed, in rows about a foot apart ; 
these wdll be suitable for making edgings the year following. 

Flower-beds should be kept free from weeds, and watered 
occasionally in the summer. In the autumn they should be 
covered with leaves, straw, or light litter; this should bo 

4 



38 FLOWERING AXi> URXAMEXTAL SHRUBS. 

taken otF in the spring, and the ground hoed and dressed in 
such a manner as to enliven the earth around the roots of 
the plants, and to give the whole a neat appearance. 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 
Arbrisseatix d^Ornement. 

Shrxjbs are so closely connected with flowering plants, 
and, indeed, so many of them are embellished ■o'ith flowers, 
that they may be considered as essential to the completion 
of an ornamental garden. They are all Perennial, and are 
divided into two classes, deciduous and evergreen ; the for- 
mer lose their leaves in the winter, the latter only shed them 
when others are ready to supply their places. 

Shmbs are not only necessary to the embellishment of a 
flower garden, but many kinds are eligible for hedges to it, 
and may be planted at a trifling expense. These hedges 
should be frequently trimmed and trained, the sides cut even 
and the tops sparingly clipped, so as to make them orna- 
mental as well as useful, and also to increase the vigour of 
their growth. When hedges become open or naked at the 
bottom, they should be plashed do\%Ti ; this is done by cut- 
ting the branches half through near the ground ; they will 
then bend easily, and may be intem'oven with the adjoining 
branches. 

When shrubs, creepers, or climbers, are planted against 
walls or trellises, either on account of their rarity, delicacy, 
or to conceal a rough fence, or other unsightly object, they 
require different modes of training ; some attach themselves 
naturally, as the Ivj', and merely require to be occasionally 
g^ded, so as to cause a regular distribution of their shoots ; 
others must be treated like fruit trees, trained thinly, if 
blossoms are the object, and rather thick, if the intention be 
to show the foliage to the greatest possible advantage. 



• FLOWERING AATJ ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 39 

Ornamental shrubs grow from one foot to twelve or more 
feet in height ; and wh«re such are planted for ornament, the 
height of each plant, when full grown, should be considered, 
and also the mode of growth, that every one may be so 
planted as to show to advantage, observing that the tall- 
growing kinds should be planted in the back part of the 
borders, and those of low growth in front ; but if they are 
required to be planted in clumps, they should be so arranged 
as to rise gradually from the sides to the middle, and be 
afterward neatly trimmed. 

Shrubs require an annual pruning, at which time, cut out 
all irregular and superfluous branches, and head do\ATi such 
as require it, forming them into handsome bushes. Apply 
stakes to such as need support, and see that the low-growing 
ones do not injure each other, or interfere with other dwarf- 
ish plants near them. 

Many kinds of shrubs may be raised from seed sown 
early in the spring, but are more commonly propagated by 
suckers, layers, or cuttings. Like other plants, they require 
a good soil, which should be manured every two or three 
years, and some of the tender kinds should have some pro- 
tection in winter. 

The following list, taken from ' The New- York Farmer,' 
furnished by Mr. Floy, contains the most of those tisually 
planted in gardens and on lawns. These will afford a suc- 
cession of flowers from spring until autumn, and may be ob- 
tained at the nurseries at moderate prices. 



CATALOGUE, &c. 

Amorpha fruticosa. Indigo shrub, produces handsome 
bunches of purple flowers in June and July. 

Jlmygdalus nana, Dwarf double-flowering Almond ; a very 
beautiful shrub, about three feet high ; blossoms early in 
April. 



40 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

Jiralia spinosa, or Angelica tree, about ten feet high ; 
flowers in very large bunches, and continues a long while in 
bloom. 

Cytisus Laburnum, or Golden Chain ; a most elegant shrub, 
producing long racemes or bunches of yellow flowers in 
June and July ; there are two kinds, the English and the 
Scotch Laburnum. The Scotch is the largest, forming a 
pretty large shrub ; the English kind is greener, more com- 
pact, and by some thought to be the handsomest ; they ought 
to be in every garden. 

Calycantlius Floridus, Allspice, or sweet-scented shrub, a 
native of the Southern States; the flowers are of a very 
dark chocolate colour, and the fragrance very much resem- 
bles ripe strawberries ; easily kept when once introduced. 
This shrub generally gi'ows about five feet high in gardens, 
and blossoms from May to August. 

Ceanothus Americanus, Red Root, or Jersey Tea Tree ; a 
plant or two in the collection, as it flowers in profusion, is 
worth having. 

Cercis siliquastrum, or Judas tree. The flowers appear 
very early in the spring, before the leaves come out, and 
make a fine appearance ; as it grows rather tall, it is calcu- 
lated for the back row of the shrubbery. 

Colutea arhorescens, or Bladder Senna, having bunches of 
yellow flowers in June and July, which are succeeded by 
seed in a kind of bladder ; calculated for the back or centre 
row of shrubberies. 

Cratcegus oxyacantha, the Hawthorn. It makes a pretty 
appearance planted out singly in the back or centre row ; 
the flowers are very fragrant; it is sometimes called the 
Pride of May ; the double white, double scarlet, and single 
scarlet Hawthorn, are very beautiful, and ought to be in 
every plantation. Hawthorn hedges are much used in Eng- 
land, where they look very handsome when clipped ; but 
they do not answer so well in this country, the heat of our 
summers causing the leaves to fall off early, often in July ; 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 41 

on that account they are not much used. We have several 
things which are better calculated for that purpose. 

Cydonia Japoiiica, or Pyrus Japotiica, a very beautiful 
scarlet flowering shrub, from Japan. It is found to be very 
hardy, resisting our most severe frosts ; it flowers very early, 
and continues a long time in bloom. A second flowering 
takes place in the latter part of the summer. It is every 
way a desirable shrub. 

Daphne mezerion, one of our most early flowering 
shrubs, which blooms freely in April and May, and is very 
sweet-scented. 'It is rather tender in some situations, 
but will stand our ordinary winters very well in a sheltered 
situation, 

Dirca palustris, or Leather Wood ; a pretty little shrub, 
growing very regular in shape, and has the appearance of a 
large tree in miniature ; it is a native of our Northern 
States ; the flowers, which appear very early in the spring, 
are yellow, and come out before the leaves. 

Gymnocladus Canadensis, or Kentucky Coffee tree. The 
berries bear a resemblance to coffee, and are said to be a 
good substitute for it ; however, it is a beautiful tree, with 
handsome feathered leaves, and makes a fine contrast with 
others. It should be planted in the back or the centre of 
the plantation ; it is very hardy. 

Halesia diptera, and Halesia ietraptera, two-winged and 
four-winged Silver Bell, or Snow-drop tree. They are both 
natives of the Southern States, but are perfectly hardy here ; 
our most severe winters do not injure them. The former 
kind flowers in April, and the latter withholds its blossoms 
until May. They are elegant shrubs. 

Hibiscus Syriacus, ji. pleno, the double-flowering Althea 
frutex, of which thei'e are several varieties ; the double 
white, double red, double red and white, and striped, are 
the most showy ; they begin to flower late in July, and con- 
tinue until Autumn. The single kind, of which there are 
many varieties, are scarcely worth cultivating, the double 



42 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

on«s being raised quite as easily, and are equally hardy. 
These are indispensable in every plantation. 

Hypericum frulescens, Shrubby Hypericum. There are 
several species of this small but beautiful shrub, all natives 
of the Southern States, but perfectly hardy here. They all 
flower profusely in the summer, and continue for along time. 
They should be planted in the front row^. 

KerriaJaponica, or Corchorus Japonica, yellow Japan Globe 
Flower; although a native of Japan, like many other Ja- 
panese flowers, it is perfectly hardy here. It flowers in the 
greatest profusion at all times, except in the very dead of 
winter, and will grow in almost any soil or situation. 

Kordreuteria panictdata, Japan Bladder tree, or Kozlrolerius. 
This is another hardy shrub from Japan. It has long race- 
mes of flowers, succeeded by a bladder-like fruit, and is 
worthy of cultivation in every good collection. 

Ligustrum vulgare, virens, large European Privet, a very 
handsome evergreen shrub, flowering profusely in June, and 
producing bunches of black round berries. It bears slip- 
ping well, and is therefore veiy suitable for hedges, or to 
enclose ornamental plantations. It grows quick, and is well 
adapted to our climate ; when planted in a hedge-row, and 
kept clipped. The American Privet makes a beautiful 
hedge, and ought to be in more general use. 

Pkiladelphus coronarius, or common Syringa, is very orna- 
mental, producing its sweet-scented flowers early in the 
spring, and in abundance. 

Pkiladelphus inodorous, and P. grandiflorus, Garland Sy- 
ringa, are both natives of the Southern States, but quite hardy 
here. Their flowers are large, and continue for several 
months, in wreaths or garlands. They are well calculated 
for the centre row, and also to hide unsightly objects, and 
have a beautiful effect when mixed with monthly honey- 
suckles, &c. 

Persica, or Amygdalus Persica, ft. rosea pleno, or double 
flowering Peach, is very beautiful in shrubberies! It blos- 

4* 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 43 

soins early, and sometimes bears fiuit, but it is cultivated 
entirely for its beautiful blossoms. A few trees of the Chi- 
nese double flowering Apple {Pyrus spectabilis) have also a 
beautiful effect. 

Rhis cotinus, Venetian Sumach, Aaron's Beard, sometimes 
called fringe tree, is a fine shrub, calculated for the centre 
of the clump or shrubbery. Its large branches of fringe 
remain all the summer, and give it a curious and striking 
effect. 

Rihes Missouriensis, or Missouri Currant ; there are two 
species of this very ornamental shrub from Missouri, intro- 
duced by Lewis and Clarke ; they are quite hardy, and flower 
profusely from April to June. 

Robinia glutinosa, and Robinia hispida; the former a pretty 
large shrub, producing fine bunches of flowers in great 
abundance throughout the summer ; the latter is a smaller 
shrub ; both of them are, however, worthy of a place in 
large collections. 

Robinia pseudo-acacia, or Yellow Locust Tree.* This is 
superior to any other kind of wood for ship-tunnels, mill- 
cogs, and fence-posts, as well as for various other purposes. 
Its culture is very easy, and may be propagated in great 
abundance, by sowing the seed in March, April, or May, in 
a bed of good sandy loam, which is its favourite soil, and 
covering them half an inch deep. Previous to sowing, put 
the seed in a basin, pour on scalding water, and let it stand 
all night ; pick out such seed as are swollen, and plant them 
immediately; next evening repeat the same process with 
such as did not swell the first night, mix the whole and sow 
them ; they will come up in the course of the following 
month numerously ; for no seed grow more freely, notwith- 
standing what some say to the contrary. When the plants 
are a year old, transplant them out of the seed-bed into nur- 
sery rows, four feet distant, and plant from plant one foot. 

* This tree is introduced here, rather on account of its usefulness than 
beauty, thougli the latter is very considerable. 



44 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHE UBS, 

Having had two or three years' growth in these rows, they 
may be planted successfully in any warm and tolerably rich 
sandy soil. They may also be propagated by suckers, which 
they throw up abundantly, especially if some of the wide- 
extending roots be cut through with an axe. An acre of 
these trees, planted at two feet distant each way, will con- 
tain 10,890 ; and four feet distant, 2,722 ; and it is said that 
no appropriation of land is more lucrative than that devoted 
to this purpose. The Three-thorned Acacia seed [Gh.dit- 
schia) should be prepared in the same manner. 

Rosa, or Roses, a very numerous variety of these ; some 
reckon five or six hundred kinds. They are accounted the 
most beautiful of Flora's productions. Perhaps a handsome 
collection might be made out of about fifty of the best sorts, 
which, by taking such quantity, I suppose might be obtained 
at about fifty cents each, under name ; and generally, a fine 
collection unnamed at half that amount. No good garden 
or shrubbery should be without them. 

Sorbvs auciiparia, Mountain Ash, or Roan tree. This is a 
very beautiful shrub of the larger size ; the leaves are orna- 
mental ; the flowers and fruit, which are produced in large 
bunches, are beautiful ; the fruit remains till late in the au- 
tumn. It is a native of Europe. 

Sorbus Canadensis. This is a native of our Northern 
frontiers and mountains, but it does not grov/ so large as the 
former ; the berries are smaller and red, the former larger 
and of an orange colour ; but otherwise much resembles it. 

Spartmm junceum, Gentista, etc. Two or three species of 
Broom, producing numerous bunches of yellow flowers in 
May and June ; the Genista, or Spanish Broom, which has 
white flowers, is also very pretty, but not quite so hardy as 
the former. 

Symphoria racemosa, or Snow-berry, sometimes called St. 
Peter's Wort, a pretty little shrub ; the bunches of wax- 
like white berries, which it produces during the whole sum- 
mer, give it a beautiful appearance. 



CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 45 

Syringa vulgaris, or common Lilac, blossoming in May, is 
well known to all, and needs no comment. The while 
variety is not quite so common. They are only used for 
outside plantings, as they sucker very freely, and soon make 
themselves common. 

Syringa Persica, or Persian Lilac, is a delicate low shrub, 
the flowers very abundant, and the leaves small and delicate. 
There are two varieties of the Persian Lilac ; the white 
flowering, and the blue or purple floweiing. 

The Chinese cut-leaved Lilac is very cuiious ; the leaves 
are cut like Parsley, the flowers growing in longer racemes 
than the former. 

Siberian, or large Persian Lilac. The bunches of flowers 
are very large, and continue in season a long time after the 
common Lilac. 

Tamarix Gallica, or French Tamarix, and the Tamarix 
Germanic a, German Tamarix, are two pretty shrubs ; the 
leaves and branches are small and slender, producing quan- 
tities of beautiful flowers, which form a very striking contrast 
to the other parts of the shrubbery. 

Viburnum opulus, or Guelder Rose, otherwise called Snow- 
ball, is a very showy shrub, producing large balls of snow- 
white flowers in May, and is indispensably necessary to every 
shrubbery. 

Vitex agmis cashis, or Chaste Tree, a pretty and singular 
shrub, flowering the most part of the summer. 



CLIMBING PLANTS. 

Jtmpelopsis hederacea. This plant, on account of the 
largeness of its leaves and rapidity of its growth, is well 
adapted for covering walls. There are several species, all 
lesembling the vine in habit and flower. 

Aristolochia sipho, Birthwort, or Dutchman's Pipe. A 
very curious blooming plant, with extraordinarily large foli- 



46 CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SIIRUPS. 

age, well calculated for an arbour; affording a dense and 
cooling shade. 

Atragene alpina. A free-growing deciduous shrub, with 
small pinnated foliage, and large blush-coloured flowers, 
which continue from May to July. 

Bignonia crucigera is a desirable evergreen, being of a 
luxuriant growth. It will cover in a few years an area of 
fifty feet, and bloom from May to August; colour orange. 

Bignonia radicans, or Trumpet Creeper, produces large 
bunches of red trumpet-shaped flowers in July and August. 

Bignonia grandlflora, is much like the former in habit 
and appearance, but the flowers are much larger. It is said 
to be a native of China, and the former a native of this 
country. They are both perfectly hardy, and will climb up 
brick work or wooden fences, without any assistance. 

Clematis, or Virgin's Bower. There are several species, 
some of them tender, or not sufiiciently hardy for our severe 
winters, without protection. The Clematis azurea, bicolor, 
and jlama, are splendid varieties. The Clematis Virginica, 
Vioyna, Viticelli, and Vitalba, are perfectly hardy, and blos- 
som throughout the summer. 

Glyci7ie Sinensis, or Wistaria Sinensis, is a handsome Chi- 
nese Creeper of recent introduction from China, and is not 
yet common in our nurseries. It is a beautiful vine, running 
to a great height, and loaded with long racemes of purple 
flowers throughout the summer. 

Glycine frutescens, or Wistaria jrutescens. This beautiful 
brother of the Chinese kind is a native of our Southern 
States, grows much in the same. way as the others, and is, 
perhaps, not inferior. Although this fine creeper has been 
long known in England, we have not heard much about it 
by English writers ; the conclusion seems to be, that it does 
not flower well in England. In fact none of our Southern 
plants do well in that country, while those from China do 
very well ; here, however, jt is quite the reverse. I have 
the Chinese Wistaria Sinensis, from fifteen to twenty feet high, 



CLIMIiING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 47 

and the American Wistaria about the same height. The 
Chinese does not look so vigorous and green as his American 
brother. The American fVisiaria should be planted in every 
garden with other creepers, or to run up the trees in shnib- 
beries, according to its natural habit. 

Hedra Helix, Irish Ivy, is a desirable evergreen for cover- 
ing naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The leaves 
are of a lively green, and from three to five angled. There 
are several varieties of it, all calculated for growing in con- 
fined, shady situations, where plants in general will not thrive. 
Jasminum officinale, Garden Jasmine. This delicious 
climbing shrub has from time immemorial been common in 
Europe for covering arbours. Its delicate white fragrant 
flowers render it very desirable ; but it is rather tender for 
our Northern winters, unless well protected. In the South- 
ern States, this plant, and also the yellow Jasmine, [revolu- 
tum,) grow luxuriantly and bloom profusely, and even Jas- 
mirmm grandiffora will endure the winters of South Caro- 
lina and Georgia. 

Lonicera, comprehending all the fine sweet-scented honey- 
suckles. Of the Italian kinds, the monthly honeysuckle is 
decidedly superior, continuing to flower all through the sum- 
mer, until late in autumn, and is very fragrant. Some of 
the other European kinds may be occasionally introduced 
into large shrubberies. There is a white honeysuckle, lately 
introduced from France, denominated Hedysarum coronarium, 
which is in great repute. Two or three American kinds 
deserve particular notice. 

Lonicera sempervirens, or Coral Trumpet, monthly honey- 
suckle, is extremely beautiful, flowering the whole of the 
summer, with its thousands of scarlet bunches ; it is, how- 
ever, destitute of scent. 

Lonicera Fraseri, also an American ; the flowers are like 
the other kind in almost every particular except colour, tliis 
being a bright yellow. 

Lonicera puhescens, or Caprifolium pubescens, a large and 



4b CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHETJBS. 

beautiful honeysuckle from the Northwest coast ; the flow- 
ers are large, and of a bright copper colour, inclining to 
orange. They are all perfectly hardy. 

Lonicera jiexiiosa, Chinese Honeysuckle, of late introduc- 
tion ; it is perfectly hardy, withstanding our most severe 
frosts without the least injury ; it is a very sweet-scented 
honeysuckle, grows rapidly, and to an immense height. It 
flowers in pairs and threes all up the branches, covering the 
whole plant completely with flowers. It blossoms in spring 
and autumn, and is a very valuable acquisition to our gar- 
dens and shrubberies. 

Lonicera Japonica, or Japan Honeysuckle. This bears 
flowers in great profusion, which are white, afterward be- 
coming of a light yellow. It is not so hardy as the Chinese, 
and requires a little protection in the winter. 

Passiflora, or Passion Vine. There are several hardy 
species, but the best is the Fassiflora incarnata ; this, 
although it dies to the ground every winter, will, during the 
summer, grow from twenty to thirty feet, and yield abun- 
dance of beautiful purple flowers. 

Periplaca grceca, or Silk Vine. A prolific climber, wood 
slender, twining and elastic, leaves smooth, ovate, lanceolate. 
Established plants will grow thirty or forty feet in one sea- 
son, and yield flowers in clusters, of a brownish yellow 
colour, from May to July. 

I shall only add to the above, the running kind of Roses ; 
although there are many other things which might be men- 
tioned. 

Rosa multiflora, from China, is pretty well known, pro- 
ducing thousands of small double red roses in bunches. It 
requires a sheltered situation from some of our keen north- 
westers. Rosa multiflora alba, from the same country, is of 
late importation, but as it increases readily, may be obtained 
at about the same price as the former ; the bunches of flow- 
ers are white. Rosa Greviltia, a running rose, also from 
China, the flowers of various colours. Rosa rubifolia, Rasp- 



PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 49 

berry-leaved Rose, from our Northern frontiers, and extend- 
ing over the Western country ; although a single flowering 
rose, it produces large bunches of flowers, which are differ- 
ently coloured on the same bunch, exactly like the former 
China kind, and is another instance of the similarity of the 
native Chinese plants to those of our country. 

Rosa canina, fl. pleno, Enghsh double Dog Rose, is a very 
pretty little double rose, and will run to a great height. 
Rosa Banksii, Lady Banks's double white China running 
Rose ; it runs up and spreads much : it may be easily known 
from others of the running roses, by its being entirely desti- 
tute of prickles. Rosa JSaisette, and Champney's, are said 
to have been raised from China seed in CaroHna ; they are 
not strictly running roses, but as they grow tall, are fine 
ornaments for the shrubbery, flowering during the whole of 
the summer and autumn, in large clusters. The Maderia 
Rose, or double white cluster, musk, flowers throughout the 
summer and autumn months, and is therefore well adapted 
for the shrubbery. Rosa Cherokensis, called the Nonde- 
script, or Georgia Rose ; the flowers are very large, being 
WiiilQ, with yellow centre. This is a running rose, growing 
very high around trees, &c. 

Rosa rubiginosa, or Sweetbriar, is too well known to need 
description. 



PROPAGATION OF FLOWERING SHRUBS. 

Flowering shrubs are variously propagated by slips, cut- 
tings, layers, suckers, buds, or scions ; and these may be 
thus defined : 

1. Slips are simply small branches, slipped down from 
the side of a large branch, or from the main stem. These 
should be taken from the parent plants carefully, so as to 
leave an eye or heel at the lower or butt end. 



50 PROPAGATION OP ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

2. Cuttings should be made from shoots or stalks of a 
prior year's growth ; and such should be selected as are well 
ripened, having their joints not far apart : they may be cut 
so as to have three or four joints in each cutting. In some 
species of succulent plants, the joints being near together, 
cuttings need not be more than from four to six inches long ; 
but shrubby plants in general vs^ill admit of their being from 
ten to tM^elve inches. 

3. Layers differ from cuttings in nothing, except that 
they strike root into the soil, while yet adhering to the parent 
plant. 

4. Suckers are in reality young plants, connected to the 
parent at the root, which should be carefully separated iu 
spring or autumn, and transplanted in the same manner as 
plants raised by any other method ; either in a nursery-bed, 
shrubbery, or flower-border. 

5. Scions are of two sorts ; scions properly so called, and 
buds. A scion is a cutting, or portion of a plant, which is 
caused to grow upon another plant, from which it extracts 
fluid for the nourishment of its leaf buds ; these thus fed, 
gradually grow upward into branches, and send woody mat- 
ter downward, so as to become connected with the stock 
grafted on. 

The business of planting slips, cuttings, &c., of the tender 
kinds into nursery pots, and the hai'dy kinds into borders, is 
generally performed in spring and autumn ; there are, how- 
ever, some exceptions to this rule, which will be explained 
hereafter. [See Calendar and Index.] 

For the purpose of raising hardy flowering shrubs by 
slips or cuttings, let a border be prepared in a shaded and 
sheltered situation, by manuring and deep digging. Pro- 
vide plants about a foot long, and insert them into the ground 
full one-third of their length ; the rows may be about two 
feet apart, and the plants nine inches fi'om each other in the 
rows. Press the ground around the stems, and rake it 
smooth. The after management of nursery beds made in 



PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 51 

spring, is to keep tliem watered in dry weather, hoe them 
occasionally, and by autumn the plants will be rooted. 

In cold climates, plantations made in autumn should be 
protected by a covering of leaves, straw, or litter, merely 
sufficient to screen the plants from wind and the sun's rays 
in time of freezing, the heat of the sun being more destruc- 
tive to vegetation in winter than the cold weather. 

To increase flowering shrubs, rose bushes, or any other 
plants, by layers, dig the ground about the plants to be ope- 
rated on to a good depth ; then with a sharp knife cut be- 
tween two joints half through the stalk or branch on the 
under part, turn the edge of the knife upward and make a 
slit, carrying it past the first joint half way to the next 
above ; make a hollow in the ground, and insert the cut part 
from one to three inches deep, according to the nature of 
the plant operated on, keeping the branch perpendicular, 
and the slit open. Each layer should be pegged down with 
a hooked stick, made from small branches of trees, to keep 
it in its proper position, as well as to prevent the cut pait 
from uniting whence the roots form for the young plants. 

Budding, grafting, and inarching are often practised on 
shrubs, with a view to perpetuate improved varieties. Bud- 
ding may be performed on roses of different descriptions, aa 
the White Moss, Unique, Tuscany, and other fine varieties, 
upon such wild kinds as are of a strong habit. The best 
time for performing the operation is toward the end of July 
or early in August, as the buds are then generally matured 
so that the bark parts freely from the wood, which is essen- 
tial to the successful accomplishment of the business. 

Grafting is generally peiformed in the spring. There are 
many methods practised on ti'ees, as cleft grafting, whip 
grafting, saddle grafting, side grafting, root grafting, inarch- 
ing or grafting by approach, &c., which methods are all fully 
explained under the head of " Budding and Grafting," in 
the fruit department. I shall, however, here present a short 
view of the mode best adapted for shrubs. 



52 PROPAGATION OP ORNAMENTAL SHRrnS. 

Scallop budding is performed by cutting from a small 
stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in length, 
and taking from the chosen twig a thin scallop of wood of 
the same dimensions ; this is instantly applied, and fitted 
perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its 
sides, and firmly bound with bass matting. This may be 
performed in spring, and if it fails, it may be repeated in the . 
month of July. The French practise this mode on Roses. 

The most simple method of grafting is, to cut off the stock 
in a wedge-like manner ; then prepare a graft having three 
or four eyes ; proceed to cut a slit in it upward, and thrust 
it on the stock, taking care to join the bai'k of each together ; 
tie them firmly together with bass, and immediately cover 
the grafted part with clay and horse dung mixed j which being 
well prepared, should be closed securely round the graft iu 
an oval form. 

Inarching, or grafting by approach, may be performed as 
follows : The shrubs to be grafted must be growing very 
near to those which are to furnish the grafts ; a branch of 
each must then be prepared by making a long sloping cut 
nearly to its centre ; the two must be brought together, and 
secured by a bandage of matting, so that the bark may meet 
as nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with 
clay composition ; and when a complete union has taken 
place, the plants may be separated with a sharp knife, by 
cutting off below the junction. 

As the above directions are applicable to the propagation 
and management of green-house, tender, and half-hardy 
plants, as well as to hardy shrubs and vines, it may be ne- 
cessary here to remind the reader, that delicate roses and 
half-hardy woody plants left out during the winter, should be 
protected either by bending down the branches and covering 
them with soil, or by tying them up to stakes, and binding 
straw snugly around them. At the same time throw s(mie 
duno- on the ground about the roots ; the longest of whicli 
•may be raked off on the approach of spring, and the shortest 



PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. OJ 

forkfid in, so as to manure the plants, and thus give vigour 
to their rising shoots. 

Deciduous shrubs may be transplanted at any time after 
they lose their leaves, and before the buds begin to expand 
in spring, provided the ground can be brought into good 
condition to receive them ; the holes should be dug capacious 
enough to hold the roots without cramping them, and some 
eaith, weW pulverized, must be thrown equally among the 
fibres of the roots, which should be well shaken, and the 
earth trodden down around the plants, until brought to the 
level required. Evergreens should be removed carefully 
with a ball of earth connected with theii roots, and some 
good mould should be provided to fill in with. 

The spring pruning of shrubs and vines should be attended 
to before the buds begin to rise ; say March in the Northern, 
and January in the Southern States. In performing this 
business, use a sharp knife, in order that all amputations and 
wounds be cut and pared smooth, and in a slanting manner. 
Divest the plants of all dead wood, superfluous branches, 
and those which cross each other. Regulate the plantation 
in such manner, that the natural form and habit of each 
plant may be retained as much as possible, and train the 
branches so that the sun can have free access to every part ; 
bearing in mind the hints thrown out in the Introduction to 
our Catalogue, Some shrubs a,nd vines will need a summer 
pruning, merely to thin out young shoots, superfluous wood, 
&c., and to train straggling branches. 



54 



BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 



The following article is submitted, as being well calcu- 
lated to afford amateurs mental recreation while engaged 
in rural pursuits ; and it is presumed that the practical gar- 
dener will not view the insertion of this article as a digres- 
sion, as it exhibits the beauty and order of the flower tribe 
in propitious climates, or when cultivated at the proper sea- 
son, in a truly appropriate and amusing light. 

APRIL. 
" Descend, sweet April, from yon watery bow, 
And liberal strew the ground with budding flowers, 
With leafless Crocus, leaf-veiled Violet, 
Auricula, with powdered cup, Primrose 
That loves to lurk below the Hawthorn shade." 

It is generally admitted that the month of April gives the 
most perfect image of spring; for its vicissitudes of warm 
gleams of sunshine and gentle showers, have the most poweiful 
effect in hastening the universal springing of the vegetable 
tribes, from whence the season derives its appellation. Next 
comes the favourite month of the year, in poetical description, 

MAY. 
" For thee, sweet month, the groves green liv'ries wear ; 
If not the first, the fairest in the year 5 
Thou dost afford us many pleasant hours, 
While Nature's ready pencil paints the flowers." 

The pious Hervey, in his Meditations on the Flower Gar- 
den, has furnished us many sublime ideas respecting the order, 
variety, and beauty of the flower tribe.* It is in vain to 
attempt a catalogue of those amiable gifts. There is an end- 

* Those who have read Hervey's Meditations on the Flower Garden, will 
discover that the pious author's phraseology, and several of his sublime 
Ideas, are interspersed through this article, which, from being blended with 
other matter, could not be designated in the customary way. 



THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY. 55 

less multiplicity of their characters, yet an invariable order 
in their approaches. Every month, almost every w^eek, has 
its peculiar ornaments ; not servilely copying the works of 
its predecessors, but forming, still forming, and still executing, 
some new design ; so lavish is the fancy, yet so exact is the 
process of Nature. Were all the flower tribe to exhibit 
themselves at one particular season, there would be at once 
a promiscuous throng, and at once a total privation. 

We should scai'cely have an opportunity of adverting to 
the dainty qualities of half, and must soon lose the agreeable 
company of them all. But now, since every species has a 
separate post to occupy, and a distinct interval for appearing, 
we can take a leisurely and minute survey of each succeed- 
ing set. We can view and I'eview their forms, enter into a 
more intimate acquaintance with their charming accomplish- 
ments, and receive all those pleasing sensations which they 
are calculated to yield. 

Before the trees have ventured to unfold their leaves, and 
while the icicles are pendant on our houses, the Snow-drop 
breaks her way through the frozen soil, fearless of dangei". 
Next peeps out the Crocus, but cautiously and with an air 
of timidity. She shuns the howling blasts, and cleaves 
closely to her humble situation. Nor is the Violet last in the 
shining embassy, which, with all the embellishments that 
would grace a royal garden, condescends to line our borders, 
and bloom at the feet of briars. Freely she distributes the 
bounty of her emissive sweets, while herself retires from 
sight, seeking rather to administer pleasure than to win admi- 
ration. Emblem, expressive emblem, of those modest virtues* 
which delight to bloom in obscurity. There are several kinds 
of Violets, but the fragrant, both blue and white, ai'e the 
earliest. Shakspeare compares an exquisitely sweet strain 
of music to the delicious scent of this flower : 



' Oh ! it came o'er my ear like tlie sweet South, 
That breathes upon a bank of Violets, 
Stealing and giving odour." 



56 THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY. 

The pious Hervey, in his admonitions to those who Indulge 
in sloth, has thrown out the following subUme ideas : What 
sweets are those which so agreeably salute my nostrils ? 
They are the breath of the flowers, the incense of the gar- 
dens. How liberally does the Jasmine dispense her odorife- 
rous riches ! How deliciously has the Woodbine embalmed 
this morning walk ! The air is all perfume. And is not 
this another most engaging argument to forsake the bed of 
sloth 1 Who would be involved in senseless slumbers, while 
so many breathing sweets invite him to a feast of fragrancy, 
especially considering that the advancing day will exhale the 
volatile dainties 1 A fugitive treat they are, prepared only 
for the wakeful and industrious. Whereas, when the slug- 
gard lifts his heavy eyes, the flowers will droop, their fine 
sweets be dissipated, and instead of this refreshing humidity, 
the air will become a kind of liquid fire. 

With this very motive, heightened by a representation of 
the most charming pieces of morning scenery, the parent of 
mankind awakes his lovely consort. There is such a deli- 
cacy in the choice, and so much life in the description of 
these rural images, that I cannot excuse myself without 
repeating the whole passage. Whisper it, some friendly 
genius, in the ear of every one, who Is now sunk in sleep, 
and lost to all these refined gratifications ! 

" Awake ! the morning shines, and the fresh field 
Calls you : ye lose the prime, to mark how spring 
The tended plants, how blows the Citron grove ; 
What drops the Myrrh, and what the balmy Reed ; 
How Nature paints her colours; how the bee 
Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets." 

How delightful is this fragrance ! It is distributed in the 
nicest proportion ; neither so strong as to oppress the organs, 
nor so faint as to elude them. We are soon cloyed at a 
sumptuous banquet ; but this pleasure never loses its ]:>oig- 
nancy, never palls the appetite. Here luxury itself is inno- 
cence; or rather, in this case, indulgence is incapable of ex- 



THE BEAUTIES OF APKIL A^TD MAY. ©7 

cess. This balmy entertainment not only regales the sense, 
but cheers the very soul ; and, instead of clogging, elates its 
powers. 

" The soft green grass is growing 

O'er meadow and o'er dale ; 
Tlie silv'ry founts are flowing 

Upon the verdant vale : 
The pale Snow-drop is springing 

To greet the glowing sun ; 
The Primrose sweet is flinging 

Perfume the flel.is along ; 
The trees are in their blossom. 

The birds are in their song; 
As Spring upon the bosom 

Of Nature's borne along. 

" So the dawn of human life 

Doth green and verdant spnng : 

It doth little ween the strife — 

Like the Snow-drop it is fair, 
And like the Primrose sweet. 

But its innocence can't scare 
The blight from its retreat." 

Our subject is so enchanting, that we had inadvertently 
wandered from the path we first entered. We now retrace 
our steps, and take a glance at surrounding objects. The 
fields look green wdth the springing gi-ass. See the Daffodil 
how it spreads itself to the wind ! The leaves of Honey- 
suckles begin to expand, the Lilacs, or Syringas, of various 
hues, unfold their buds. The Almond exhibits its rosy clus- 
ters, and the Corchorus its golden balls. Many of the low- 
lier plants exhibit their yellow and purple colours, and the 
buds of Lilies, and other Perennial plants, prepare to show 
themselves. If we turn our attention to the orchard, we 
behold the Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches, lead the way 
in blossoming, which are followed by the Cherry and the Plum. 
These form a most agreeable spectacle, as well on account 
of their beauty as of the promise they give of future bene- 
fits. It is, however, an anxious time for the possessor, as 
the fairest prospect of a plentiful increase is often blighted. 



58 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 

Shakspeare draws a pathetic comparison from tliis circum- 
stance, of the delusive nature of human expectations : 

"This is the state of man: to-day he puts forth 
The tender leaves of hope ; to-morrow blossoms, 
And bears his blushing honours thick upon him; 
The third day comes a frost, a killing frost, 
And nips his root." 

But now we return to the garden. Before we have time 
to explore Nature's treasures, many disappear ; among these 
are the humble Daisy, which shrinks from the intense heat, 
and the several varieties of Primulas, or early spring flowers. 
The various grades of Polyanthus deserve a close ins[)ection ; 
these, for a while, exhibit their sparkling beauties, but, alas ! 
soon disappear. Scarcely have we sustained this loss, but 
in comes the Auracula, and more than retrieves it. Arrayed 
she comes in a splendid variety of amiable forms, with an 
eye of crystal, and garments of the most glossy satin. A 
very distinguished procession this ! the favourite care of the 
florist ; but these also soon disappear. Who could forbear 
gi-ieving at their departure, did not the various sorts of bulb- 
ous flowers burst their bands asunder, or rather expand so 
as to exhibit their fragrance and beauty. 

" Fair-handed Spring 
Throws out the Snow-drop and the Crocus first, 
The Daisy, Primrose, Violet darkly blue, 
And Polyanthus with unnumbered dyes. 
Then comes the Auracula, enriched with shining meal, 
o'er all their velvet leaves." 

While we reluctantly dispense with the sweet perfumes 
of the Hyacinth and Narcissus, we behold the Tulips begin 
to raise themselves on their fine wands or stately stalks. They 
flush the parterre with one of the gayest dresses that bloom- 
ing Nature wears. Here one may behold the innocent wan- 
tonness of beauty. Here she indulges a thousand freaks, and 
sports herself in the most charming diversity of colours. In 
a grove of Tulips, or a bed of Pinks, one perceives a differ- 



THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY, fid 

ence in almost every individual. Scarcely any two are turned 
and tinted exactly alike. What colours, what colours are 
here ! these so nobly bold, and those so delicately languid ! 
What a glow is enkindled in some ! what a gloss shines 
upon others ! With what a masterly skill is every one of the 
varying tints disposed ! Here they seem to be thrown on with 
an easy dash of security and freedom ; there they are adjusted 
by the nicest touches of art and accuracy. Those colours 
which form the ground are always so judiciously chosen, as 
to heighten the lustre of the superadded figures ; while the 
verdure of the impalement, or shadings of the foliage, im- 
part new Hveliness to the whole. Fine, inimitably fine, is 
the texture of the web on which these shining treasures are 
displayed. What are the labours of the Persian looms; 
what all the gay attire which the shuttle or the needle can 
furnish, compared with Nature's works 1 One cannot for- 
bear reflection in this place, on the too prevailing humour of 
being fond and ostentatious of dress. What an abject and 
mistaken ambition is this ! How unworthy the dignity of 
man, and the wisdom of rational beings ! Especially since 
these little productions of the earth have indisputably the 
pre-eminence in such outward embellishments. 

"Bright Tulips, we do know, 
Ye had your coming hither. 
And fading time doth show, 
That ye must quidily wither, 

" Your sisterhood may stay. 
And smile here for an hour. 
But ye must quickly die away. 
E'en as the meanest flower. 

" Come, virgins, then, and see 

Your frailties, and bemoan ye ; 
For lost like these — 'twill be 
As time had never known ye." 

But let us not forget the fragrant, the very fragrant Wall 
and Gilyflowers ; some of these regale us with their per- 



60 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 

fumes through various vicissitudes and alternations of the 
season, while others make a transient visit only. 

"I love thee, lone and pensive flower, 

Because thou dost not flaunt thy bloom 
In pleasure's gay and garnish'd bower, 

Or luxury's proud banquet room ; 
But on the silent, mouldering wall 

Thy clinging leaves a fragrance shed, 
Or give to the deserted hall, 

A relic of its glories fled. 

" These wreaths, in vivid freshness bright, 

Methinks the fluttering herd portray. 
Who bask on fortune's golden light. 

And wanton in her joyous way ; 
But thou art like that gentle love, 

Which blooms when friends and fame have pass'd, 
Towers the dark wreck of hope above, 

And smiles through ruin to the last." 

In favoured climates arises the Anemone, encircled at 
the bottom with a spreading robe, and rounded at the top 
into a beautiful dome. In its loosely-flowing mantle, you 
may observe a noble negligence ; in its gently-bending tufts, 
the nicest symmetry. This may be termed the fine gentle- 
man of the garden, because it seems to possess the means of 
uniting simplicity and refinement, of reconciling art and ease. 
The same month has the merit of producing the Ranunculus. 
All bold and graceful, it expands the riches of its foliage, and 
acquires by degrees the lovliest enamel in the world. As 
persons of intrinsic worth disdain the superficial arts of recom- 
mendation practised by fops, so this lordly flower scorns to 
borrow any of its excellencies from powders and essences. 
It needs no such attractions to render it the darling of the 
cuiious, being sufficiently engaging from the elegance of its 
figure, the radiant variety of its tinges, and a certain superior 
dignity of aspect. 

JUNE. 
" Now have young April, and the blue-eyed May, 
Vanished awhile, and lo! the glorious June 
(While Nature ripens in his burning noon) 
Comes like a young inheritor." 



THE BEAUTIES OF ArRIL AND MAY. 61 

I had intended to confine our meditations to tlie beauties 
of April and May, but Nature seems to improve in her opera- 
tions. Her latest strokes are the most masterly. To crown 
the collection, she introduces the Carnation, which captivates 
our eyes with a noble spread of graces, and charms another 
sense with a profusion of exquisite odours. This single flower 
has centred in itself the perfection of all the preceding. The 
moment it appears, it so commands our attention, that we 
scarcely regret the absence of the rest. 

" Maternal Flora, with benignant hand, 
Her flowers profusely scatters o'er the land : 
These deck the valleys with unnumbered hues, 
And far around their pregnant sweets diffuse, 
The broad Carnations, gay and spotted Pinks, 
Are showered profuse along the rivers' brinks." 

The field we have entered is so extensive and so enchant- 
ing, that we cannot extricate ourselves without taking a cur- 
sory glance at the airs and habits, the attitude and lineaments, 
of each distinct class. See the Paeonia of China, splendid and 
beautifully grand ! View the charming Rose, delicate and 
languishingly fair ! and while you inhale its balmy sweetness, 
you will be constrained to admire it, notwithstanding its thorny 
appendages. 

"Rose! thou art the sweetest flower 
That ever drank the amber shower ; 
Rose! thou art the fondest child 
Of dimpled Spring ! the wood-nymph wild ! 
Resplendent Rose ! the flower of flowers, 
Whose breath perfumes Olympus' bowers ; 
Whose virgin blush, of chasten'd dye, 
Enchants so much our mental eye." 

Behold all the pomp and glory of the parterre, where Na- 
ture's paint and perfumes do wonders. Some rear their heads 
as with a majestic mein, and overlook, like sovereigns or no- 
bles, the whole paiterre. Others seem more modest in their 
aims, and advance only to the middle stations ; a genius turned 
for heraldry might term them the gentry of the border; while 

6 



62 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAT. 

Others, free from all aspiring airs, creep unambitiously on the 
ground, and look like the commonality of the kind. Some 
are intersected with elegant stripes, or studded with radiant 
spots. Some affect to be genteelly powdered, or neatly fringed ; 
while others are plain in their aspect, unaffected in their dress, 
and content to please with a naked simplicity. Some assume 
the monarch's purple ; some look most becoming in the vir- 
gin's white ; but black, doleful black, has no admittance into 
the wardi-obe of Spring. The weeds of mourning would be a 
manifest indecorum, when Nature holds a universal festival. 
She would now inspire none but delightful ideas, and there- 
fore always makes her appearance in some amiable suit. Here 
standd a warrior clad with crimson ; there sits a magistrate 
robed in scarlet ; and yonder struts a pretty fellow, that seems 
to have dijjped his plumes in the rainbow, and glitters in all 
the gay colours of that resplendent arch. Some rise into a 
curious cut, or fall into a set of beautiful bells. Others spread 
themselves in a swelling tuft, or crowd into a delicious cluster. 
In some the predominant stain softens by the gentlest dimi- 
nutions, till it has even stolen away from itself. The eye is: 
amused at the agreeable delusion, and we wonder to find 
ourselves insensibly decoyed into quite a different lustre. In 
others one would think the fine tinges were emulous of pre- 
eminence ; disdaining to mingle, they confront one another 
with the resolution of rivals, determined to dispute the prize 
of beauty ; while each is improved, by the opposition, into the 
highest vivacity of complexion. 

" Mrs. PsBony came in quite late in a heat, 
With the Ice-plant, dew-spangled from forehead to feet; 
Lobelia, attired like a queen in her pride, 
And Dahlias, with trimmings new furbish'd and dyed. 
And the Blue-bells, and Hare-bells in simple array, 
With all their Scotch cousins from highhmd and brae, 
Ragged Ladies and Marigolds clustered together, 
And gossip'd of scandal, the news, and the weather ; 
What dresses were worn at the wedding so fine 
Of sharp Mrs. Thistle and sweet Columbine." 



63 
OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION 

OF 

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 



These plants exhibit a striking variety of the beauties of 
Nature. It would seem as if every change she is capable 
of foi'ming, was included in the radiant colours of the Tulip. 
Never was a cup either painted or enamelled with such a 
profusion of tints. Its stripes are so glowing, its contrasts 
so strong, and the arrangement of them both so elegant and 
artful, that it may, with propriety, be denominated the reign- 
ing beauty of the garden in its season. The Hyacinth is 
also an estimable flower for its blooming complexion, as well 
as for its most agreeable perfume and variety. 

■" The Hyacinth, purple, white, and blue, 
Which flung from its bells a sweet peel anew. 
Of music so delicate, soft, intense, . 
It was felt like an odour within the sense." 

The Double Dahlia, in its numerous varieties, is incon- 
ceivably splendid. It was only at the latter end of the 
eighteenth century that the first of these, which were single, 
were introduced into Europe from Mexico. 

Double Dahlias of three colours were first known in the 
year 1802, and since that time the varieties have increased 
BO rapidly, that those which a few years ago were considered 
beautiful, are now thrown away to give place to the more 
splendid sorts. I have good authority for stating, that upward 
of twenty thousand seedlings are raised yearly in England, 
only a few of which are introduced into the collections of 
amateurs, to take the place of such old sorts as may from 
time to time be rejected. This is done, in order that none 
but the very choicest may be retained in such collections. 



64 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

Ill some gardens in Holland they cultivate, by distict names, 
about eleven hundred varieties of Tulips, thirteen hundred 
of Hyacinths, and six hundred of Ranunculuses and Ane- 
mones, some of vi^hich are sold as high as sixty dollars the 
single root. It is stated in the travels of Mr. Dutens, of his 
having known ten thousand florins, equal to $4,000, refused 
for a single Hyacinth ; and Dodsley says, in his Annual Regis- 
ter for 1765, that the Dutch of all ranks, from the highest 
to the low^est, during the years from 1634 to 1637 inclusive, 
neglected their business to engage in the Tulip trade. Ac- 
cordingly in those days, the Viceroy vi^as sold for 66250, the 
Admiral Liefkeens for =£440, and the Semper Augustus at from 
dfiSOO to d£l,000 each ; and a collection of Tulips w^as sold by 
the executors of one Wouter Broekholsmentser for d£9,000. 
It is stated that in one city in Holland, in the space of three 
years, they had traded for a million sterling in Tulips. 

As a full catalogue of all the varieties of bulbous and tube- 
rous-rooted plants would occupy a number of pages, without 
affording much general interest, I shall content myself by de- 
voting a short paragraph in describing some of each particular 
species, which will be accompanied with directions for their 
culture, in a brief, and, at the same time, explicit manner. 

It may here be necessary to define the difference between 
bulbous and tuberous roots. Those designated bulbous have 
skins similar to Onions, or the Allium tribe ; and tuberous roots 
imply all such as produce tubers something similar to Potatoes. 

The soil for bulbous and tuberous roots in general should 
be light, and yet capable of retaining moisture ; not such as 
is liable to become bound up by heat, or that, in consequence 
of too large a portion of sand, is likely to become excessively 
hot in summer ; but a medium earth between the two ex- 
tremes. As many city gardens do not contain a natural soil 
of any depth, a suitable compost should be provided in such 
cases, which may consist of equal parts of sand, loam, rotten 
manure, mould, &c. 

When ready, the beds may be laid out, from three to four 



BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. GCy 

feet Avide, and they should be raised two or three iucherf 
above the level of the M^alks, which will give an opportunity 
for all superfluous moisture to run off. Let the beds thus 
formed be pulverized to the depth of fifteen or eighteen 
inches ; and at the time of planting, let a small quantity of 
beach sand be strewed in the apertures or trenches prepared 
for the roots to grow in, both before and after placing them 
therein, which will prove beneficial. 

A southern exposure, dry and airy, and sheltered from 
the northwest winds, is preferable for most bulbs. But 
Anemones and Ranunculuses should be in some measure 
sheltered from the intense heat of noon. 

Beds of hardy bulbous and tuberous roots should be cov- 
ered on the approach of winter with litter, leaves, straw, or 
such earth as is formed by the decay^ of leaves, to the depth 
of two or three inches, as it prevents any ill effects which a 
severe season may have on the roots ; but it should be care- 
fully raked off in the spring. 

Bulbous roots in general should be taken up in about a 
month or six weeks after the bloom is exhausted, or when 
the foliage is about half decayed. If fine warm weather, the 
bulbs may be dried on the beds they gi'ow on, by placing them 
in separate rows, being careful not to mix the several varieties. 
To prevent such an accident, labels may be affixed to, or 
placed in the ground opposite each bulb. They will keep 
much better when dried gradually ; to this end, a little dry 
earth may be shaken over them, to screen them from the 
heat of the sun. If it should rain before they get dry, take 
them hi, or cover them with boards ; when dry, clear them 
of the fibres and stems, and then put them away in dry sand ; 
or if wiapped in paper, they may be kept in boxes or draw- 
ers until the season of planting returns. 

The tender tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, and the like, 
will have to be taken up before the cold becomes severe. 
As the Dahlia exhibits its flowers in all their splendour until 
nipped by the frost, the roots ought, in the event of a very 

6* 



66 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS, 

sudden attack, to be secured from its blighting effects. They 
are not apt to keep well if taken up before they are ripened ; 
the tops should therefore be cut down as soon as they have 
done flowering, and the ground covered around the roots 
with dung or litter ; this will enable them to ripen without 
being injured by frost ; and in about a week after being cut 
down, or on the appearance of severe weather, they should 
be dug up and packed in dry sand, and then stowed away in 
a dry place out of the reach of frost. The temperature suited 
to keep green-house plants will preserve them in good order. 
Some people complain of the difficulty of keeping Dahlia 
roots through the winter. I am of opinion that they are 
often killed from being taken up before they are ripe, and 
then put in a confined, damp place ; or are by some, per- 
haps, subjected to the other extreme, and dried to a husk. I 
keep mine on shelves in the green-house, and seldom lose one 
in a hundred. If it be an object with the cultivator to have 
the names perpetuated from year to year, each plant should 
have a small label affixed to the old stalk, by means of small 
brass or copper wire, as twine is very apt to get rotten. 

Cape bulbs, and such tuberous roots as are cultivated in 
pots, on account of their tenderness, should be kept dry after 
the foliage is decayed, until within about a month of their 
period of re-germinating, at which time they should, after 
having been deprived of their surplus offsets, be re-potted 
in good fresh earth. 

There are some descriptions of bulbous and tuberous roots 
that need not be taken up oftener than once in two or three 
years, and then only to deprive them of their young offsets, 
and to manure the ground. These will be described here- 
after under their different heads. 

In the articles which follow, I have named the preferable 
season for planting the various kinds of bulbous and tuberous 
roots ; but as some bulbs will keep in good condition several 
months, there can be no objection to retaining such out of the 
ground, to suit any particular purpose or convenience. 



67 
DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTIVATION 

OF 

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 



AMARYLLIS. 

Of this genus of flowering bulbs there are about eighty 
species, and upward of one hundred varieties; they are natives 
of South America, and in Europe are generally kept in the 
hot-house ; some of the varieties are hybrids, produced by 
cultivation ; these succeed very well in the green-house, and 
in this country we frequently have very perfect flowers in 
the borders. A few of the choicest varieties are as follows : 
jlmaryllis Aulica, or Crowned AmarylUs, is one of the most 
beautiful ; it produces four flowers, about seven inches in 
diameter, on an erect stem, about two feet and a half high, 
with six petals of green, crimson, and fine transparent red 
colours. 

A. Ballota produces three or four rich scarlet flowers on 
the stem, each about five inches in diameter ; there are two 
or three varieties of this species, all beautiful. 

Jl. Johnsoniensis. The stem of this variety rises about two 
feet, and exhibits four beautiful scarlet flowers, with a white 
streak in the centre of each petal, each flower about six 
inches diameter. It sometimes produces two stems. 

Jl. Lo7igifolia, or Crinum Capense, is perfectly hardy ; it 
flowers in large umbels of a pink colour, inclining to white, 
and is a good garden variety. 

Amaryllis foi-mosissima, or Jacobean Lily, produces a flower 

of great beauty ; although a low-priced plant, it throws out 

gracefully its glittering crimson-coloured petals, which have 

a brilliancy almost too intense for the eye to rest upon. 

The A. Lutea produces its bright yellow flowers in October, 



68 ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES. 

in the open air ; but tlie bulb requires a little protection in 
winter, or it may perish. 

The most suitable soil for the AmarylUs is a clean new earth, 
taken from under fresh grass sods, mixed with sand and leaf 
mould ; the latter ingredient should form about a third of 
the whole, and the sand about a sixth. Some of the varieties 
may be planted in pots during the month of April, and others 
will do very well in the open ground, if planted early in May, 
in a sunny situation. The bulb should not be set more than 
half its depth in the ground ; as, if planted too deep, it will 
not bloom ; the plant deriving its nourishment only from the 
fibres. When the bulbs have done flowering, such as are in 
pots should be watered very sparingly, so that they may be 
perfectly ripened, which will cause them to shoot stronger 
in the ensuing season, and those in the ground should be 
taken up, and preserved in sand or paper. 



ANEMONE AND RANUNCULUS. 

These are medium, or half-hardy roots, producing beau- 
tiful little flowers of various hues, and are highly deserving 
of cultivation. The bulbs should be planted in a fresh, well 
pulverized, loamy soil, enriched with cow dung. If planted 
in the gai-den, the beds ought not to be raised above one inch 
higher than the alleys, and the surface should be level, as it 
is necessary for the prosperity of these plants, rather to retain 
than to throw off" moisture. The plants will generally sur- 
vive our winters ; but it is always safest to plant them in such 
a manner that a temporary frame of boards can be placed 
over them when the weather sets in severe ; and if they are 
to be shaded while in flower, the posts intended for the 
awning may be fixed in the ground at the same time ; these 
will serve to nail the boards to, and thus answer two pm^poses. 

Anemones and Ranunciduses may be planted during Octo- 
ber or November, in diills two inches deep, and six inches 



CROCUS AND CROWN IMPERIAL. 69 

apart ; the roots should be placed with claws downward, about 
four inches distant from each other, and covered up, leaving 
the bed quite level. The awning need not be erected over 
the beds until they come into bud, which will be early in 
May ; the extreme heat of the American climate is, however, 
unfavourable to the perfect development of their beautiful 
blossoms in ordinary seasons, even when shaded. 



CROCUS. 

These are hardy little bulbs, said to be natives of Swit- 
zerland. There are in all about fifty varieties of this humble, 
yet beautiful plant, embracing a great variety of hues and 
complexions, and their hardiness, and earliness of flower, 
offer a strong motive for their cultivation. The bulbs may 
be planted in October or November, in rows about six inches 
from the edgings ; if in beds, they may be placed in ranks 
of distinct colours, about four inches apart, and from one to 
two deep, which will afford to their admirers considerable 
amusement and gratification, and that at a very early season. 
They are generally in full perfection early in April, 



CROWN IMPERIAL. 

This is a species of the genus Fritillaria, of which there 
are about twenty species and varieties, chiefly natives of 
Persia. These squamose bulbs produce tall, luxuriant stems, 
embellished with green glossy foliage, and flowers of various 
hues ; but there are only a few of the most curious cultivated, 
perhaps on "account of their odour, which to some persons 
is disagreeable. They are, however, very hardy, and pro- 
duce singular and showy flowers in April and May. suited 
to make variety in the flower borders, in which they may be 
planted in August and September, from three to four inches 
deep ; they need not be taken up every year as other bulbs, 



70 C()LrHrcuM, cyclamen, and double dahlia. 

and when tliey are, wliicli may be about every third year, they 
ought not to be retained too long out of the ground before 
they are replanted. 



COLCHICUM. 

This curious little bulb, being planted in the month of 
June, about two inches deep, produces its flowers in Octo- 
ber ; it then dies, without leaAang any external appearance 
of seed ; they, however, lie buried in the bulb all the winter, 
and in the spring produce a stalk with seed, which get ripe by 
the first of June, just in time to plant for flowering in the ensu- 
ing autumn. How wonderful are the provisions of Nature ! 



CYCLAMEN. 

There are several species of the Persian Cyclamen which 
are worthy of cultivation in pots ; the varieties Coum and 
Persicum vnW bloom in a green-house, or warm room, from 
January to April, if planted in good light compost early in 
September. The foliage of these plants is of a dark green 
velvet colour ; and the flowers of the vaiiety Coum are of a 
dark crimson colour ; those of the variety Persicum are of a 
delicate French white, tipped with pink, and their fragrance 
is similar to that of the wild rose. 



DOUBLE DAHLIA. 

This may wdth propriety be denominated one of the most 
important perennial tuberous-rooted plants that can be intro- 
duced into a garden, and fiom the circumstance of its having 
become so fashionable of late years, I have felt anxious to 
furnish in this work a catalogue of all the choicest varieties 
attainable ; I therefore appl,ied for this purpose to Mr. G. C. 
Thorburn, who, from a regular correspondence with connois- 



DOmU.n DAHLIA. 71 

seurs, both in England and America, becomes acquainted 
witb all the most beautiful and rare varieties ; and he has 
kindly furnished a list and description of about one hundred, 
including the choicest seedlings of the last two years, which 
will be cultivated foi the first time in America, in his garden 
at Astoria, next year; plants fiom which will be for sale at 
No. 15, John street. To these I have added about one hun- 
dred and twenty varieties, most of which I have had under 
cultivation in ray own garden, and which may be justly 
denominated pre-eminent. 

In making thi^ selection, several superb varieties are 
omitted, not because they are undervalued, but for the sake 
of brevity, which in a work of this kind must be consulted. 
Those marked thus t are native American varieties. Those 
marked thus * obtained the greatest number of premiums 
at the various Floricultural and Horticultural exhibitions in 
Great Britain, as well as in our own country. There are, 
perhaps, fifty more in this Catalogue not far beneath them, 
but none are marked except those which, from having 
been tested in this climate, can with confidence be recom- 
mended as being free and perfect bloomers. The choicest 
seedlings of last year which have been purchased in England 
at from fifteen shillings to five pounds sterlino- each, are 
marked thus §. It may be necessary to observe, that manv 
of our choice old varieties, as well as several of the new 
ones hereinafter described, have not been offered in com^^e- 
tition at public exhibitions ; these are, therefore, not tf> be 
undervalued for want of the star or asterisk, and it is pre- 
sumed that the brief description given of the different shades 
will be sufficient to govern amateurs in their choice. 

As much depends on the climate, soil, and situation in which 
Dahlias are cultivated ; aTid as the descriptions which follow 
have been given by various persons, in different parts of Eng- 
land, as well as America, whose soils and situations are dif- 
ferent, the height of these plants may vary a foot or more from 
our estimate, when planted in one uniform soil and situation. 



72 



CATALOGUE OF DOUBLE DAHLIAS. 

t Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. 

Feet high. 

§ Admirable Baudain, white, tipped with red, - - - - 4 to 5 

Admirable, Spary^s, bright rose, superb flower, - - - - 4 to 5 

^Admiral Stopford, TrtntjielfCs, extra dark flower, cupped petals, 4 to 5 

♦Adventure, Toward' s, extra fine purple, - - - - -4 to 5 

Agamemnon, WidnalCs, rich ruby crimson, - - - - 5 to 6 

Alexander, MUler^s, bright orange bulF, - - - - -5 to 6 

Alba Purpurea, Ynimg^s, white, edged with purple, - - - 5 to 6 
§Alba Purpurea Superba, Bates's, dark purple, edged with white, 6 to 6 

§ America. BrinnmoncCs fine purple, - - - - -4 to 5 

Andrew Hofer, Holmes's, maroon, splendid flower, - - - 4 to 6 

Antiope, Case's beautiful lilac, fine shape, - - - - 4 to 5 

§Arethusa, Union's, blush white, veined with pink, - - - 3 to 4 

*Argo, Widnall's, bright yellow, beautiful form, - - - 5 to 6 

*Ariel, Inwond's, white, edged with lilac, - - - - -4 to 5 

§ Array, Waller's, dark crimson, fine flower, - - - - 3 to 4 

Attila, Whale's, shaded rose and lilac, fine form, - - - 4 to 5 

*Aurora. Maule's, white, striped with crimson, - - - 4 to 5 

*Bannard's Rival, supurb dark crimson, - - - - -4 to 5 

§ Bachelor, clear red, fine form, and abundant bloomer, - - 3 to 4 

*Beauty of England, Girling's, white, margined with crimson, - 3 to 4 
tBeauty of Philadelphia, Schmitz's, yellow, tip'd with rose, good shape, 4 to 5 
Beauty of the Plain, Spary's, white, deeply margined with purple, 4 to 5 
§ Beauty of Wakefield, Barret's, white, edged with light purple, 

fine form, good habit, and constant, - - - 3 to 4 

§ Bedford Surprise, Sheppard's, rosy crimson, splendid form, - 3 to 4 

f Black Prince, Kent's, extra dark maroon, - - - - 3 to 4 

Blandina, delicate white, fine form, - - - - - -4 to 5 

Bloomsbury, Lee's, fine vivid scarlet, large, - - - - 5 to 6 

Bloomsbury, Paniplin's, large buflF, fine form, - - - - 4 to 5 

§Bridal Ring, white and lavender, - - - - - -3 to 4 

§ Bride, Fawcett's, blush, veined and tipped with rose, - - 3 to 4 

Bridemaid, Brown's, white, edged with purple, - - - - 3 to 4 

(J British Queen, shaded bronze, fine form, - - - - 3 to 4 

*Burnham Hero, Church's, superb deep crimson, - - - 3 to 4 

•^'"alliope, extra fine ruby scarlet, - - - - - -5 to 6 

«3<^andidate, SLlverlock's, plum colour, fine form, - - - 5 to 6 

Captain Boldero, blush, tipped with purple, - - - - 4 to 5 

*Charles XII., Miller's, plum colour, tipped with white, - - 4 to 5 

§ Chancellor, Whale's, light rosy crimson, large flower, - - .5 to 6 

Clara, Seaman's, extra fine white, - - - - - -4 to 5 

Cleopatra, extra fine white, - -4 to 5 

tColumbus, Schmitz's, fine rosy crimson, cupped petals, - - 4 to 5 

Compte de Paris, fine Canary yellow, 4 to 5 

Conqueror of Europe, Elphinstone's, blush, shaded with pink, - 4 to 5 

Conqueror of the World, Stein's, yellow, tipped with crimson, - 4 to 5 



DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 73 

♦ Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. 

Feet high. 

Conqueror, SpringaWs, very dark maroon, - - - - 4 to 5 

Constancy, Keyne's, shaded purple, fine flower, - - - - 5 to 6 

♦Conservative, Seaman s, bright ruby scarlet, - - - - 5 to 6 

Conservative, Lmo's, light purple, fine form, - - - - 5 to 6 

*Constantia, Cox's, white, beautifully shaded with pink, - - 5 to 6 

§Coronation, Har7-isnn's, crimson, beautifully shaded with purple, 4 to 5 

Coronet, superb dark puce, large flower, 4 to 5 

Countess of Liverpool, beautiful shaped scarlet, - - - 6 to 8 

Danecroft Rival, Girling's, bright scarlet, showy flower, - - 5 to 6 

Diana, Elphinstone's, beautiful crimson and yellow, - - 4 to 5 

Dennissii, fine ruby purple, 5 to 6 

* Dowager Lady Cooper, delicate peach blossom, cupped petals, - 4 to 5 

♦Duchess of Richmond, Fowler's, fine orange and pink, - - 4 to 5 

Duke of Bedford, Dennis's, large crimson maroon, - - 5 to 6 

*Duke of Cornwall, Law's, ruby rose, high centre, - - 4 to 5 

§Duke of Richmond, Fowler's, bronzy pink, - - - - 4 to 5 
§Duke of Wellington. Smith,' s,rich scarIetcrimson,highcentre, cup'd, 5 to 6 

Eclipse, Catleugfi's, vermillion rose, superb flower, - - - 3 to 4 

Elizabeth, r/-en(^eW5, white, edged with purple, - - - 4 to 5 

§Eleame de Beaucour, fine rosy blush, 4 to 5 

§ Emperor of China, dark purple, superb form, - - - 5 to 6 

*Empress, Dennia's yellow, edged with purple, - - - 5 to 6 

•Etonia, Keeler's, extra fine salmon colour, cupped petals, - 4 to 5 

§ Euclid, Ward's, lilac purple, fine form, - - - - 4 to 5 

Eva, Foster's, blush white, cupped petals, - - - - 4 to 5 

♦Exemplar, Widnall's, extra fine white, - - - - 5 to 6 

♦Exquisite, Girling's, superb salmon colour, cupped petals, - 5 to 6 

Fanny Keynes, Keynes's, beautifully shaded rose, - - - 4 to 5 

:Fire Ball, Squibbs's, vivid scarlet, - - - - - -4 to 5 

Fanny, Hieskell's, white, tipped with lilac, - - - - 4 to 5 

Fisherton Champion, Squibbs's, fine dark crimson, - - - 5 to 6 

Frances, Jones's, white, margined with purple, - - - 5 to 6 

♦Formosa, Girling's, fine buff", tipped with rose, - - - 5 to 6 

Gaine's Primrose, fine delicate primrose, - - - - 4 to 5 

§Garrick, dark puce, splendid form, 4 to 5 

§Gem, Smi/k's, white, tipped with bright crimson, good form, - 5 to 6 

§General Houston, Briell's, light purple, good habit, • - 5 to 6 

§Gipsy Maid. Girling's, dark crimson, ed-ied with purple, - 4 to 5 

♦Glory, Douglass's, extra large bright scarlet, - - - 5 to 6 

fGolden Fleece, Neale's, fine golden yellow, - - - - 4 to 5 

Glory of Plymouth, Rendle's, white, tipped with purple, - 4 to 5 

♦Grace Darling, Dndd's, rosy salmon, fine formed flower, - 4 to 5 

♦Grandis, extra large ruby purple, - - - - -5 to 6 

Grand Turk, King's, very dark, nearly black, and good form, - 3 to 4 

♦Grand Tournament, superb blush, fine formed flower. - - 5 to 6 

§Great Western, Brags:'s, light purple, mottled with crimson, - 4 to 5 

^Grenadier, bright oranjre, showy flower, - - - - 5 to 6 

Haidee, Wildman's, white and pink, cupped petals, - - 4 to .5 

7 



74 DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 

♦ Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. 

Feet high . 

§Honourable Miss Abbot, lilac, cupped petals and fine habit, - 4 to 5 

§Hope Triumphant, Wildmairs, fine formed rose, - - - 4 to 5 

Hope, Neville's, fine rose coluur, - - - - - -4 to 5 

Indispensable, Girling s, violet purple, fine form, - - - 5 to 6 

Ingestive Rival, Taylor's, bright lilac, - - - - -5 to 6 

§Jersey Maid, Langelier's, blush, fine form, - - - - 4 to .'r 

Julia, Clarke's, sulphur, tipped with crimson, - - - 4 to 5 

♦Juliet, Widnall's, fine cupped rose, - - - - -4 to 5 

Lady Ann, Hnpwaod's, white, laced with lilac, - - - 3 to 4 

tLady Ashburton, Russell's, pure white, tipped with carmine lake, 5 to 6 

*Lady Ann Murray, Catleugh's, white, mottled with purple, - 4 to 5 

Lady Bathurst, white, laced with crimson, - - - - 4 to 5 

Lady Catharine Jermyn, white, mottled with crimson scarlet, - 4 to 5 

§Lady Glentworth, Widnall's, shaded claret, fine form - - 4 to 5 

§Lady Harland, Jejlries's, rosy lilac, large showy flower, - - 6 to 6 

Lady Sonde's, Cox's, pale yellow, edged with rose, - - - 4 to 5 
Le Grande Baudain, Low's, rosy lilac, centre tinged with yellow, 5 to 6 

*Letitia, Wells's, yellow and brown, fine shape, - - - 3 to 4 

Lewisham Rival, white, elegantly cupped, - - - - 4 to 5 

^Liberty, GiWi/;g's, fine large cupped lilac, - - - - 4 to 5 

Lord Morpeth, Evcms's, dark puce, finely cupped, - - - 4 to 5 

Lovely Ann, Dickerson's, blush white, tinted with lilac, - - 4 to 5 

*Lucina, Spencer's, fine lilac, edged with crimson, - - - 4 to 5 
^Madame de Schaunenfeld, Girling's, bright vermilion, tipped with 

white, fine shape and habit, - - - - - -4 to 5 

^Madeline Bray, Atwell's, primrose, tipped with lilac, - - 3 to 4 

*Maid of Bath, Davis's, white, ed^ed with purple, - - - 4 to 5 

Mary, Ward's, primrose yellow, Inrge flower, - - - - 4 to 5 

tMary Ann, Schniitz's, pure white, large flower, and perfect, - 4 to 5 

^Mary Jane, Edward's, white, tipped with purple, - - - 3 to 4 

Maria, Wheeler's, deep rose, superb form, - - - - 4 to 5 

§Marchioness of Aylesbury, Whale's, fine white, tipped with scarlet, 4 to 5 

*Marchioness of Breadalbane, lilac and white, mottled, - - 5 to 6 

Marchioness of Lansdowne, blush, with purple edge, - - 4 to 5 
§ Marquis of Landsdowne, Brown's, shaded orange, large flower, 4 to 5 

*Majestic, Wiinall's. shaded rose, free bloomer, - - - 5 to 6 

♦Marshal Soult, Eiphinsfone's, lilac and red, - - - - 4 to 5 

Maresfield Hero, Mitchell's, yellow, tipped with crimson, - - 4 to 5 

Mary Queen of Scots, white, margined with purple, - - 5 to 6 

Mazcppa, Widnall's, rich ruhy ipurple, - - - • - 4, to 5 

Metella, plum colour, fine form, - - - - - -3 to 4 

♦Middlesex Rival, extra fine dark purple, - - - - 5 to 6 

?i Miracle, Milliez's, blood red, superior form, - - - - 4 to 5 

§Miss Chester, Sfem's, fine white, a good form and habit, - 4 to 5 

Miss Johnston, Willison's, deep rose, extra fine form, - - 4 to 5 

tMiss Percival, Schniitz's, clear white, free bloomer, - - 4 to 5 

Miss Scroope, Jiedley's, extra fine rose, cupped, - - - § to 6 



DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 75 

» Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. 

Feet high. 

^Miranda, Brown^s, blush lilac, - - - - - -4 to 5 

§Miss Watson. Girlings, light purple, tipped with white, - - 4 to 5 

Miss Wilson, white, tipped with scarlet, - . - - - 5 to 6 

+Mrs. Fletcher Webster, RusseU's, white, tipped with purple, - 5 to 6 

fMrs. Rushton, Buist's, blush white, tipped with lilac, - - 5 to 6 

Napoleon, Smitfis. dark crimson, excellent formed flower, - 5 to 6 

Ne plus Ultra, WidnaWs, fine shaped, purple and crimson, - 3 to 4 

Newick Rival, MantelVs, beautiful ruby rose, - - - - 5 to 6 

*Nimrod, WidnalCs, fine dark crimson, - - - - -5 to 6 

§Noithern Beauty, Robinson's, white tipped with purple, - 4 to 5 

*Orange Boven, Cal.leugh's, beautiful bronzy lilac, large flower, - 4 to 5 

§Oriental Pearl, AtioeWs, creamy white, good form, - - 5 to 6 

§Osgar, WidtiaU's, excellent dark crimson, cupped petals, - 5 to 6 

Painted Lady, white and blood red, - - r - -5 to 6 

Penelope, Medley's, blush, tinted with purple, - - - 4 to 5 

§ Perpetual Grand, large purple, 4 to 5 

f Philadelphia, Schmitz's, white, spotted with purple, showy flower, 4 to 5 

Phenomenon, Whale's, white, edged with rosy lilac, - - - 5 to 6 

§ Phoenix, Htdley's, deep red scarlet, good form, - - - 4 to 5 

*Pickwick, dark purple, fine show flower, - - - - 4 to 5 

Picta Magniflora, Wells's, yellow, edged with red, - - - 3 to 4 

§ Plough Boy, Girling's, dark purple, large and fin* flower, - 4 to 5 

Premier, Bmvman's, fine cupped yellow, - - - - 4 to 5 

*President, Wilmer's, dark purple, well formed, - - - 5 to 6 

President of the West, dark crimson, fine form, - - - 4 to 5 

Pride of Sussex, fine while, excellent form, - - - - 4 to 5 

Prima Donna, Sqiiibbs's, blush, tinted with rosy lilac, - - 5 to 6 

§ Prince Albert, Adams's, chestnut brown, shaded with salmon, - 4 to 5 

^Prince of Wales, Dodd's, fine yellow, cupped petals, - - 3 to 4 
^Princess Jloya]. Hudson's, pale amber, edged with pink, cup'd petals, 3 to 4 

§ Princess Royal, Herwood's, fine primrose, good form, - - 4 to 5 

§ Princess Royal, Tlionipson's bright orange, margined with red, - 3 to 4 

*Queen Victoria, Fmrler's. white, laced with purple, - - 4 to 5 

Queen, An.'icll's, white, mottled and edged with pink, - - 3 to 4 

*Queen, Widnall's. true peach blossom, splendid form, - - 4 to 5 

§ Queen of Lilacs, Apple'iy's, fine form and constant bloomer, - 4 to 5 

§ Rainbow, Smith's, yellow, beautifully edged with rosy purple, - 4 to 5 

Rainbow, Widnall's, purple and crimson, shaded, - - - 5 to C 

♦Reliance, Widnall's, orange, finely cupped, - - - - 5 to & 

Revenge, I'ox's, fine sulphur, large flower, - - - - 4 to 5 

Rival Prince of Oranso, Widnall's, light orange, - - - 5 to 6 

Rival Rose, Goodwin's, superb ruby rose, cupped, - - - 3 to 4 

*Rienzi, Widnall's, crimson and puce, mottlet!, - - - 4 to o 

Rosa Supurba, Elphin stone's, extra fine ruby rose, - - - 6 to C 

Rose Superior, Girling's, very splendid, perfect flower, - - 5 to S 
§Rose Unique, Ansell's, light rose, fine centre, and free bloomer, 4 to 5 

Rosetta, Muyheiu's, fine ruby rose, - - - - - -5 to 6 



76 DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 

t Denotes American Seedlings. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. 

Feet high. 
Rouge et Noir. AnselPs, deep crimson, shaded with dark purple, 4 to 5 
♦Ruby Superb, Walter's, fine ruby red, excellent form, free bloomer, 5 to 6 
Royal Standard, Whale's, rich rosy purple, - - - - 5 to 6 

4 Satirist, Mortlock's, lilac purple, fine form and habit, - - 4 to 5 

Scarlet Defiance, Coudrey's, fine bright scarlet, - - - 4 to 5 

*Scariet Defiance, Cousins's, vivid scarlet, - - - - 5 to 6 

4Sir R. Sale, Smith's, crimson purple, cupped petals, with fine centre, 4 to 5 
§Sir F. Johnston, Hillier's, rosy purple, fine form, - - - 4 to 5 
Spectabile, Widnall's, light primrose, with purple margin, - 4 to 5 

Springfield Major, Gaines's, large dark crimson purple, - - 6 to 7 
♦Stella, fine crimson, cupped petals, constant and free, - - 4 to 5 
♦Striata Formosissima, Bates's, blush white, striped and spotted 

with crimson, - - - - - - - -4 to 5 

§St. George, Fawcitt's, deep rose, good form, - - - - 5 to 6 

§ Stanley, Jones's, fine rose blush, excellent form, - - - 5 to 6 
§ Surprise, Oakley's, bright scarlet, finely tipped with white, - 4 to 5 
*Sulphurea Elegans. Jones's, sulphur yellow, - - - - 5 to 6 

♦Suffolk Hero, Girling's, fine dark maroon, - - - - 4 to 5 

Sunbury Hero, Wilmer's, yellow, tipped with red, - - - 5 to 6 
♦Sylph, Widnall's, white, edged and mottled with rose, - - 4 to 5 
+T. G. Percival, Schmit.z's, large darkcrimson, round petals, fine form, 4 to 6 
*Tournament. Cafleiigh's, ruby scarlet, extra fine, - - - 5 to 6 
♦Triumph, Milliez's, white, tinted with purple, superb flower, - 5 to 6 
§Turville's Essex Triumph, very dark, almost black, - - 3 ti) 4 

§Twyford Perfection, Young's, deep ruby, cupped petals, - - 5 to 6 
Unique, Ansell's, light yellow, tipped with red, - - - 4 to 5 

Unique, Walter's, white, delicately laced with pale lilac, - - 5 to 6 
Upway Rival, light purple, fine form, - «• - - -4 to 5 
♦Uxbridge Magnet, Catleugh's, mottled purple, fine large flower, 5 to 6 
♦Vesta, Wells's, blush, fine bold flower, - - - - -4 to 5 

Victory, Knight's, rich dark crimson, - - - - - 6 to 6 

Village Maid, beautiful light blush, 4 to 5 ' 

Viola, Read's, rose colour, tipped with red, - - - - 4 to 5 

§VirgiI, Mounljoy's, ruby purple, - - - - - -4 to 5 

Virgin Queen, clear white, finely formed flower, - - - 5 to 6 

tWashington Irving, Schmitz's, light purple, free bloomer, - 6 to 6 

§Westbury Rival, Hull's, puce, fine firm and constant bloomer, - 4 to 5 
§White Defiance. Langelier's, very fine white, good form, - - 3 to 4 
♦Will Watch, Girling's, shaded ruby, constant and fine, - - 6 to 6 
Windmill Hill Rival, white and violet, neat flower, - - - 4 to 5 
•Winterton Rival, Nelson's, light yellow, good form, - - - 5 to 6 
Xarifa, Oxer's, pale yellow, fine form, - - - • -4 to 6 
Yellow Climax, Wildman's, extra fine yellow, perfect shape, - 4 to 5 
Yellow Defiance, Cox's, brilliant yellow, - - - - -4 to 6 

fYellow Victory, Schmitz's, brimslone yellow, finely cupped, - 4 to 5 
♦York and Lancaster, fine rose pink, free bloomer, - - - 5 to 6 
Zeno, Elphinetone's, beautiful purple, - - - •• »4to5 



DOUBLE DAHLIA. 



77 



As some amateurs are apt to fancy that the most economi- 
cal method of obtaining a supply of Dahlias in their gardens, 
is to raise them from seed, it may be necessary to remind 
such, that the trouble and expense of raising any quantity 
of seedlings, is equal to that attending the cultivation of the 
same number of the choicest varieties ; and when it is con- 
sidered that the greatest proportion of a plantation may be 
single, and semi-double, and that but few double flowering 
plants can be expected, equal to those above described, it 
must appear evident that it is the interest of such persons as 
desire to have their gardens unencumbered with plants tha-t 
are not calculated to ornament the same, to procure plants 
or roots of such varieties as have been tested, and highly 
recommended, as is the case with all those described in the 
preceding Catalogue, and also those which are generally sold 
by the regular florists. But as I am writing for young gar- 
deners, it may be necessary to state, that although new varie- 
ties are usually raised from seed of the finest double flowers, 
some successful propegators prefer that procured from semi- 
double varieties. Sow seed toward the end of February, 
or early in March, in pots, and plunge them in a moderate 
hot-bed, or seed may be deposited in the earth of the beds, 
in shallow drills, and the beds attended to as directed in the 
Calendar for February and March. 

Nothing is more simple than the cultivation of Dahlia 
roots. In March or April, they will, if properly kept through 
the winter, begin to sprout around the old stems and tubers. 
To forward these sprouts in growth, the roots should either be 
buried in light earth on the top of a moderate hot-bed, or 
else potted, and then set in a warm room, or green-house, 
and watered. As soon as the shoots have grown to the 
length of two or three inches, the roots may be divided in 
such a manner as to have a good strong shoot attached to a 
piece of the tuber, or old stem; each of these will, if pro- 
peily managed, make a plant. Those who may commence 
cultivating at an early season, should put the plants thus 



78 DOUBLE DAHLIA. , 

separated into small pots, and keep them in a growing state 
until about the middle of May at which time they may be 
turned out of the pots with the balls of eartn entire, and 
planted in the open borders, from three to four feet from 
each other* Let the ground be well pulverized, and enriched 
with good old manure, before the plants are set out. If the 
top soil be shallow, and the subsoil inferior, it would be bene- 
ficial to the plants to dig holes to the depth of from a foot 
to eighteen inches, and then replenish the earth with good 
rich compost, consisting of two thirds of fresh loam, and one 
third of well-rotted manui'e. 

Many cultivators have found late planting to suit better 
than early ; and I myself have had more perfect flowers 
from plants set out about the middle of June, than from those 
planted in May : this is easily accounted for. In July and 
August the weather is generally hot, which brings the most 
forward plants into bud at an early season, and in the event 
of a continuation of hot, dry weather, such buds fail to pro- 
duce perfect flowers ; whereas those plants which are set 
out late, keep growing through the hot weather, and produce 
their buds just in time to receive all the benefit of the au- 
tumnal rains. From a consideration of these circumstances, 
I think early in June the safest time to set out Dahlia plants; 
and if those persons who have no convenience to force their 
roots, set them out in May, in ground prepared as before 
directed, they will generally succeed very well, provided they 
take care to cover them in case of a cold change of weather. 
The roots may be thus cultivated entire, as is frequently 
done ; but if it be desired to have them parted, this business 
can be easily accomplished without disturbing the roots, and 
the offsets may be planted in the ground separately or potted. 

* In order to obtain an extra number of plants from any choice varieties, 
cuttings are frequently taken from the si\oots when about three inches in 
length, which are planted in nursery-pots, and cultivated in hot-beds ; they 
require to be shaded from the sun, by mats, for the first fortnight, after 
which they may be gradually iunured to the air, and treated as plants raised 
in the ordinary way. 



GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWOKD LILY. 79 

Previous to setting out the plants, it will be necessary to 
provide for their preservation through the varied changes of 
the season, or a sudden gust of wind may destroy the expec- 
tations of a year. The branches of the Dahlia are extremely 
brittle, and, therefoi'e, a good stout pole, or neat stake, should 
be driven down near each root, of a suitable height, so that 
the branches, as they progress in growth, may be tied thereto 
at every joint, which may be done with shreds of matting or 
twine. If the poles be in readiness, they are much more easily 
fixed at the time of planting the Dahlias than afterward; but 
it may be done at any time after the ground has been softened 
by rain, provided it be not delayed too long, so as to subject 
tho plants to risk. Sometimes a few forward buds of the 
Dahlias will exhibit their premature beauties to the beams 
of a July and August sun ; but their lustre is quickly dim- 
med. The latter end of September, sometimes all October, 
and part of November, witness the Dahlia in all its gloiy ; 
and dwarf plants, cultivated in pots, will sometimes blossom 
at Christmas ; but they require more than ordinary care, at 
a late period of their growth. 



GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWORD LILY. 

Of this genus of bulbs there are about fifty species, natives 
of the Cape of Good Hope. They produce flowers of vari- 
ous colours, in August and September, and are well worthy 
the attention of those who cultivate tender exotic plants. 
They may be planted in September or October, about an 
inch deep, in pots, which must be kept in a green-house or 
light room, and watered sparingly until they begin to grow. 
The following are known to be superb species and varieties 5 

G. alalus, or Wing-Flowered, producing bright orange- 
coloured flowers. 

G. blandus produces flowers of a beautiful blush rose 
colour. 



80 GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OK SWORD LILY. 

Gr. Byzantinus, or Turkish Flag, has large delicate purple 
flowers. 

G. cardinalis. This variety produces very large flowers of 
superb scarlet, spotted with white. 

G. florihundus, or Cluster Flower, produces large flowers 
of white and pink colour. 

The Gladiolus JYatahnsis, or Psittacina, is perhaps the 
most desirable to cultivate of all others. It blossoms freely, 
and the colours are exquisitely beautiful. In its progress of 
blooming, it exhibits variable colours, as vermilion, red, yel- 
low, gi'een, white, crimson, &c., which brighten, as the flower 
arrives at perfection, to the brilliancy of a rainbow. Another 
good quality displays itself in the bulb, which, if properly 
managed, will yield an abundance of offsets ; these being 
cultivated, will flower the third year in perfection, and thus 
continue to multiply pei'petually. 

I have named September and October as the time for 
planting, because it is considered the preferable season for 
most bulbs ; but if these be preserved in good condition 
through the wintei until early in April, and then planted in 
a soil consisting of about one half fresh loam, equal parts 
of leaf mould, and sand, well mixed, they may be forwarded 
in a warm room, green-house, or moderate hot-bed, until 
settled warm weather, and then turned out of the pots into 
a border, where they can be shaded from the sun at noon- 
day ; this will induce each of them to throw up three or four 
stems, from three to four feet high, each stem producing five 
or six gorgeous blossoms, in great perfection. Those planted 
in the autumn or winter, may also be turned out of the pots 
in June ; and, from the fibres having taken substantial root 
in the soil before transplanting, such plants may be taken 
up again in August, or early in September ; and on being 
planted in large pots, they may be removed, so as to perfect 
their bloom, within view of the parlour or sitting-room, which 
will afford considerable amusement and gratification. 



HYACINTH. 81 

HYACINTH. 

"Hail to thee ! hail, thou lovely flower ! 
Still shed around thy sweet perfume, 
Still smile amid the Wintry hour, 
And boast e'en then a spring-tide bloom. 
Thus hope, mid life's severest days, 
Still smiles, still triumphs o'er despair ; 
Alike she lives in pleasure's rays, 
And cold aflliction's Winter air." 

There are, as has been already stated, about thirteen 
hundred varieties of this family of plants, comprising all the 
various hues, as white, pink, red, yellow, blue, purple, crim- 
son, &c., and some of those with various coloured eyes. 
They begin to produce their flowers in the open borders 
early in April, on short erect stems covered with florets or 
small bells ; each floret is well filled vrith petals rising toward 
the centre, and is suspended from the stem by short strong 
footstalks, the longest at the bottom, and the uppermost 
florets stand so erect as to form a pyramid. A plantation, or 
bed of these, has a very beautiful appearance, provided they 
are well attended to. In planting them, which should be 
in the months of October or November, care should be taken 
to have the colours so diversified as to suit the fancy : they 
may be placed in short rows across the bed, about eight inches 
apart, and from three to four inches deep, measuring from 
the top of the bulb, and covered up at the setting in of win- 
ter, as before recommended for bulbs in general. 

Those who may have a fine collection, should have an 
awning erected in the spring, to screen them from the chill- 
ino- blast, and also from drenching rains and the noonday 
sun; and they should be looked over as soon as they make 
their appearance above ground, to see if they are all perfect 
and regular ; if faulty or inferior bulbs should appear to have 
been planted in a conspicuous part of the bed, by accident 
or mistake, they can be taken out, and by shortening the 
rows, others may be substituted with a trowel. WTien all 
are regulated, look over them frequently, and as the stems 



82 iRfS, OR FLOAVER DE LUCE.— IXIAS. 

shoot up, tie them to whes, or small rods, with shreds of 
bass matting or thread, being careful not to injure the florets* 
lu about six weeks after they have done flowering, the bulbs 
may be taken up, and managed as recommended for bulba 
in general, in a former page. 



IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE. 

There are two distinct species of plants cultivated under 
the name of Flower de Luce^ each consisting of several varie- 
ties. The bulbous species and varieties are designated as 
English, Spanish, Chalcedonian, and American. These, if 
introduced into the flower borders, and intei'mixed with 
perennial plants of variable colours, have a very pretty 
appearance when planted in clumps or patches. This may 
be done in the month of October, by taking out a spadeful 
of earth from each place allotted for a plant, and then insert- 
ing three or four bulbs, about two inches deep. If the ground 
be poor, some rich compost may be dug in around the spot 
before the bulbs are planted ; and if several sorts be planted 
in the same border, let them be of various colours. The 
tuberous-rooted are of various colours, as blue, yellow, brown, 
and spotted ; they ai'e easily cultivated, and flower freely in 
a loose soil inclining to moisture, if planted in March or April. 



IXIAS. 



'These are tender, but very free flowering bulb«, producing 
oa "their stems, which vary in height from six inches to two 
feet, >very delicate flowers of various colours, as orange, 
blush, white, purple, green, crimson, scarlet, and some have 
two or three colours blended in the same plant. 

There are, in all, upward of twenty species, which may 
be cultivated in the green-house, by planting the bulbs in 
pots in September or October, and j)lacing them near the 
light, and watering them sparingly until they begin to shoot. 



JONQUII^S LACHENAT.IAS LILIES. 83 

JONQUILS. 

This is a hardy race of bulbs, and produces very delicate 
yellow flowers early in May. There are different varieties, 
some of which are single flowering, and others double. 
Their fiagrance is very grateful, being similar to that of 
Jasmines. The bulbs may be planted about two inches 
deep in the flower borders, or in pots, in October, or before 
the setting in of winter ; they flower better the second year 
than in the first, and, therefore, should not be moved and 
replanted oftener than once in three years. 



LACHENALIAS. 

These are tender little bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good 
Hope. There are supposed to be in all about forty species 
and varieties. Those most cultivated with us are the Lach- 
enalia quadricolor, and L. tricolor, which are very beautiful 
when in full bloom, exhibiting flowers of various colours on 
u stem of from six inches to a foot in height, and much ir 
the character of Hyacinths. The colours, which are yellow, 
scarlet, orange, green, &c., are very pure and distinct. L. 
nervosa, L. orchoides, L. jninctata, and L. rubida, are all 
excellent species, and worthy of cultivation. They may be 
planted from one to two inches deep, in small pots, in the 
months of August and September, and watered but sparingly 
until they begin to grow. 



LILIES. 



There are several plants under this name, of different 
|enera, some of which are indigenous. The Canada Lily, 
with yellow spotted drooping flowers, may be seen in wet 
meadows toward the last of June, and early in July. The 
Philadelphia Lily blooms also in July ; its flowers aie red. 



84 LILIES. 

There are some pure white, and others yellow, growing m 
various parts of the country. Among the foreign genera 
are several species. Of the Mavtagon, or Turk's Cap Lilies, 
there are some beautiful varieties ; as the Caligula, which 
produces scarlet flowers; and there is one called the Crown 
of Tunis, of purple colour ; beside these, are the Double 
Violet Flamed, the White, the Orange, and the Spotted; 
these are all hardy, and may be planted in various parts of 
the garden, by taking out a square foot of earth, and then, 
after manuring and pulverizing it, the bulbs may be planted 
therein before the setting in of winter, at different depths, 
from two to four inches, according to the size of the bulbs. 
Some of the Chinese varieties are very beautiful, as the 
Tiger, or Leopard Lily, and the dwarf red, Lilium con- 
color'. There are others with elegant silver stripes, which 
are veiy showy, and there is one called Lilium siiperhum, 
that has been known to have twenty-five flowers on a single 
stalk. 

Beside those above enumerated, there are some others 
which are generally cultivated in green-houses, as the Calla, 
or Ethiopian Lily ; and the following, which have been 
known to endure our winters, by protecting them with 
dung, &c. : Lilirim longifiorum, in two varieties ; these pro- 
duce on their stalks, which grow from twelve to eighteen 
inches high, beautiful rose coloured flowers, streaked with 
white, which are very sweet-scented. These roots are 
sometimes kept out of the ground until spring, and then 
planted in the flower borders, but they should be preserved 
carefully in sand or dry mould. Lilium Japonicum : of 
these there are two varieties, which produce several stalks 
at once, yielding very showy flowers. One of the varieties 
is blue flowered, and the other produces flowers of the 
purest white. 



NARCISSUS. OHNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF UETHl.KUEM. 85 

NARCISSUS. 

The species and varieties of this plant are numerous. The 
Incomparable is perfectly hardy, and produces its flowers in 
April, which are called by some pasche, or pans flowers, by 
others, butter and eggs ; perhaps because their bright yellow 
petals are surrounded with large white ones. Some persons 
dislike the smell of these, and it is said that the odour has a 
pernicious efiect upon the nerves ; but the white fragrant 
double, as well as the Roman, and Polyanthus Narcissus, are 
free from this objection, being of a very grateful and agree- 
able smell. Some of these are justly held in great esteem 
for their earliness, as well as for their varied colours. The 
Grand Monarque de France, the Belle Legoise, and some 
others, have white flowers with yellow cups. The Glorieicx 
has a yellow ground, with orange coloured cups; beside 
these are some white and citron coloured, as the Luna, and 
others entirely white, as the Rein Blanche and Morgenster, 
All these varieties are very suitable either for the parlour or 
green-house, and may be planted in pots, from October to 
December, from two to three inches deep. The double Ro- 
man Narcissus are very sweet-scented ; if these be planted in 
pots, or put into bulb glasses in the month of October, they 
will flower in January and February. 

Polyanthus Narcissus are more delicate than Hyacinths 
or Tulips ; when they are planted in the open border, they 
should be covered about four inches with earth, and before 
the setting in of winter, it is advisable to cover the beds with 
straw, leaves, or litter, to the depth of six or seven inches, 
and to uncover them about the middle of March. 



ORNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF BETHLEHEM. 

There are about fifty varieties of these bulbs, natives of 
the Cape of Good Hope, some of which are from three to 
five inches in diameter, and shaped similar to a pear ; others 

a 



86 OXALIS. 

are much like Hyacinth bulbs. Among those cultivated irt 
America are the O. lacttum, and the O. anrtum; the former 
produces fine white flowers, and the spike is about a foot iu 
length ; and the latter produces flowers of a golden colour,, 
in contracted racemose corymbs. The O. mariiinmm, oi 
Sea Squill, is curious ; from the centre of the root rise seve- 
ral shining glauceus leaves, a foot long, two inches broad at 
the base, and narrowing to a point. If kept in a green-house, 
these are green during the winter, and decay in the spring; 
then the flower-stalk comes up rising two feet, naked half 
way, and terminated by a pyiamidal thryse of white flowers.. 
These bulbs are generally cultivated in the gi'een-house, 
and require a compost consisting of about one half fresh loam, 
one third leaf mould, and the remainder sand, in which they 
may be planted in September. When cultivated in the gar- 
den, they should be planted four or five inches deep, and 
protected with dung, &c. They produce their flowers early 
in June. 



OXALIS. 

The Oxalis is a native of the Cape of Good: Hope ; the 
species are numerous, and their roots are very small bulbs, 
articulated, jointed, or granulated, in a manner peculiar to 
this genus. They produce curious flowers of various hues, 
yellow, purple, rose, red, white, striped, vermilion colour, &c. 
The bulbs should be planted in very small pots, in August 
and September, in a compost consisting of about two thirds 
loam, and one third leaf or light mould, and treated in the 
same manner as other Cape Bulbs. They increase in a pe- 
culiar manner, by the parent bulb striking a fibre down from 
its base, at the extremity of which is produced a new bulb 
for the next year's plant, the old one perishing.. These 
plants will flower freely in a green-house. 



P^ONY. 

** Paeonia round each fiery ring unfurls, 
Bares to the noon's bright blaze her sanguine cuils." 

Op this genus of splendid plants there are known to be 
about twenty species, and as many varieties. It is said that 
the Pceonia officinalis rubra, or common double red Paeony, 
was introduced into Antwerp upward of two centuries ago, 
at which time it was sold at an enormous price. It has since 
been highly esteemed in Europe and America, and is to be 
found in all well-established gardens, exhibiting its vivid 
ciimson petals early in June. Many superb species have of 
late years been brought from China, a few of which may be 
noticed, with some others which are in very great repute. 

Pceonia alba Chinensis is one of the finest of the herbaceous 
sorts. The flowers are white, tinged with pink at the bot- 
tom of the petals. 

P. edulis iohitleji has also white flowers, which are very 
large and splendid. 

P. edtilis fragrans, is a fine large double scarlet variety, 
and produces flowers perfumed like the rose. 

P. humei has beautiful large double dark blush-coloured 
flowers. 

P. paradoxa fimbriata produces fringed double red flowers, 
which are very beautiful. 

These are all hardy, and may be planted about four inches 
deep in the garden, in October or November. The flowers 
exhibit themselves to the best advantage when planted on a 
bed that is elevated, and of a circular form. 

The following are half hardy and half shrubby ; these 
have been known to survive the winter by being well pro- 
tected, but are kept much better in a green-house ; and they 
also exhibit their flowers to greater advantage than when 
exposed to the full sun. 

P. moulan Bankskii, or Tree Pseony, produces very large 
double blush flowers in abundance, with feathered edges to 
every petal. This variety is highly deserving of cultivation. 



88 TULIP. 

p. moutan rosea is a fine rose-coloured double variety, and 
produces very splendid flowers. 

P. mouian papaveracea produces very large white flowers, 
with pink centres. This splendid variety frequently bears 
flowers from nine to eleven inches in diameter. 

Beside the above, are several others of various colours, 
some of which are semi-double. 



TULIP. 



" For brilliant tints to charm the eye. 
What plant can with the Tulip viel 
Yet Ko delicious scent it yields 
To cheer the garden or the fields ; 
Vainly in gaudy colours dressed, 
'Tis rather gazed on than caressed." 

The Tulip is a native of the Levant, and has been in cul- 
tivation nearly three centuries. It may be justly entitled the 
King of Flowers, for the brilliancy and endless combination 
of all colours and shades. The varieties of the Tulip are 
very numerous, and are divided into different classes. Those 
cultivated in regular beds by amateurs are rose-coloured, 
bybloemen, and bizarres. There are a great many beautiful 
varieties, denominated Parrot Tulips, which have notched 
petals, striped or diversified with green; and also some very 
dwarfish kinds, both single and double, which are generally 
cultivated in parlours and green-houses. 

Mr. T. Hogg, of Paddington, near London, has published 
a work, entitled ' A Treatise on the cultivation of Florists* 
Flowers,' which comprises the Tulip, Carnation, Auricula, 
Ranunculus, Polyanthus, Dahlia, German and China Asters, 
Seedling Heart's Ease, and New Annuals. In that work, 
which is dedicated to Queen Adelaide, the author remarks 
that the cultivation of the Tulip is one of the most fascina- 
ting and pleasing pursuits imaginable, and that when " The 
Tulip mania has fairly got hold of any one, it sticks to him 



TULIP. 



89 



like the skin on his back, and remains with him the rest of 
his life." He instances a Mr. Davey, of Chelsea, as being 
in his seventy-fifth year, and in whose breast the fancy for 
Tulips was so predominant, that in the autumn of 1832, he 
was induced to part with a hundred sovereigns for one sin- 
gle Tulip, named " Miss Fanny Kemble." Perhaps a better 
definition of what constitutes the properties of a good Tulip, 
could not be given than a description of this " precious gem, 
or lovehest of all Tulips ;" but, lest nry readers should con- 
clude that the old man was in his dotage, I would inform 
them that this favourite bulb was purchased of the executors 
of the late Mr. Clarke, with whom it originated, and that it 
had not only been the pet of its owner, but had excited the 
envy and admiration of all the amateurs Avho went to view it. 

" This precious gem, a bybloemen Tulip, was raised from 
one of Mr. Clarke's seedling breeders, and broke into colour 
three years ago ; it has produced two offsets since, and is 
adapted to the second or third row in the bed ; the stem is 
firm and elastic ; the foliage full and broad, of a lively green ; 
the cup large, and of the finest form ; the white pure and 
wholly free from stain ; the pencilling on the petals is beau- 
tifully marked with black or dark purple, and the feathering 
uniform and elegant ; it preserves its shape to the last, the 
outer leaves not sinking from the inner ; in a word, it is con- 
sidered the first flower of its cast, and the best that has ever 
been produced in England." 

The article in the work already alluded to, on the culti- 
vation of Tulips alone, occupies ninety-six pages ; T, there- 
fire, cannot attempt any thing more than an abridgement of 
the author's ideas on some important points. Those of my 
readers who may desire full information, are referred to the 
work itself, which may be obtained of Mr. G. C. Thorbum 
The following description may serve to govern the choice 
of amateurs. Tulips exhibited at the show are, in general, 
classed and distinguished as follows: Flamed Bizarres, 
Feathered Bizarres. Flamed Byhloemens, Feathered Byhhe- 



90 TULJP. 

mens, Flamed Roses, Feathered Roses, and Selfs, or plain- 
coloured. 

A Bizarre Tulip has a yellow ground, mai'ked with pur- 
ple or scarlet of different shades ; it is caWed flamed when a 
broad or irregular stripe runs up the middle of the petals,, 
with short abrupt projecting points, branching out on each 
side ; fine naiTow lines, called arched and ribbed, often extend 
also from this broad stripe to the extremity of the leaves, the 
colour generally appearing strongest in the inside petals ; a. 
Tulip, with this broad coloured stripe, which is sometimes 
called beamed or splashed, is, at the same time, frequently 
feathered also. 

It is called feathered when it is without this broad stripe; 
but yet it may have some narrow lines, joined or detached, 
running up the centre of the leaf, sometimes branching out 
and carved toward the top, and sometimes without any spot 
or line at all ; the petals are feathered more or less round 
the edges or margin inside and out ; the pencilling or feath- 
ering is heavy or bixiad in some, and light or narrow in 
others, sometimes with breaks or gaps, and sometimes close 
and .eontinued all round. 

A Byhloemen Tulip has a white ground, lined, marked^ 
striped, or variegated with violet or purple, only of various 
shades ; and whether feathered or flamed, is distinguished 
by the same characters and marks which are pointed out 
and applied to the Bizaned Tulips. 

A Rose Tulip is iiiarked or variegated with rose, scarlet,, 
crimson, or cherry colour, on a white ground; and the 
Feathered Rose is to be distinguished from the Flamed by 
the same rules as described before ; the Rose is very often 
both feathered and flamed. 

A Self, or plain-coloured Tulip, properly so called, is either 
white or yellow, and admits of no farther change; other 
plain-coloured Tulips, w^hether red or purple, aie called 
breeders, and are hardly worthy of being exhibited. Mr. 
Hogg infonijH us, that dfilOO, say $500, judiciously expended 



TULIP. 91 

at the present time, will give a moderate-sized bed, tliat 
shall contain the greater part of the finest varieties grown; 
such a bed as d£250 would not have purchased twelve or 
fouiteen years ago. 

To describe minutely the mode of planting a regular bed 
of Tulips would exceed our limits ; suffice it to state that 
the name of every bulb should be written in a book, and 
that they should be so classed as to have the varied coloura 
show advantageously ; to this end, the tallest should be allot- 
ted for the middle of the bed, and others in regular grada- 
tion, so as to have the most dwaifish on the sides. The 
bulbs must be covered with good mould to the dejjth of three 
inches from the top of the bulb on the sides of the bed, and 
about four inches in the middle. Let a small spoonful of 
clean drift sand be used around each bulb, and see that the 
bed be left sufficiently round from the middle to the edges. 
The beginner must understand that no unsightly tallies, or 
number sticks, are to distinguish the Tulips ; but that he 
must adopt a sort of ground plan, dividing the whole bed 
into rows of seven bulbs across ; for example, write down 
the names and places of the Tulips in the first row, and con- 
tinue the same form all through to the other end of the bed. 

Row First, 

No. 1. Fenelon, --,,,- this is a Bybloemen. 

2. Duchess of Clarence, - - " Rose-coloured. 

3. Charlemagne, - - - - « Bybloemen. 

4. Louis the Sixteenth, - - " Bybloemen. 

5. Memnon, " Bizarre. 

6. Volney, ..--,- " Bybloemen. 

7. Lady Crewe, ---... " Rose-coloured. 

Good fresh loam, taken from under healthy grass sods, is 
the most suitable soil for Tulips to ,grow in ; under whic^h 
should be buried, to the depth of a toot, about two inches* 
thickness of well-rotted cow or horse droppings. The reason 
for placing the dung so low is, that the fibres may get down 



92 TUBEROSE. 

to it, (which they will do,) and that the bulbs may not be 
injured by it, as is apt to be the case if too much dung is 
used around them. The best time for planting the bulbs is 
early in November, and the beds should be made a fortnight 
previous, in order that the earth may become sufficiently 
settled. 

If severe frosts set in after the Tulips show themselves 
above ground in the spring, some protection should be given; 
single mats placed over hoop bends answer very well ; and 
at the time of blooming, an awning should be erected over 
them, to screen them from the intense heat of the sun, which 
awning should be sufficiently spacious to admit of persons 
walking under it, to view the beautiful flowers to the great- 
est possible advantage. 



TUBEROSE. 

This fragrant and delightful flower has been cultivated in 
English flower gardens for upward of two centuries ; there 
the bulbs are generally cultivated in pots early in the spring, 
and transferred to the flower borders as soon as it becomes 
settled warm weather ; for they are very tender. They 
generally succeed very well here, if planted at once in the 
open border toward the end of April, and produce flowers, 
which are pure white, and highly odoriTerous, on a stem three 
to four feet high. 

The bulbs produce a number of offsets, which should be 
preserved with the parent plants through the winter, and 
then parted off" and planted by themselves, in April or early 
in May, to produce flowering roots for the ensuing year. 
These roots thrive best in a light rich soil, well pulverized, 
in which they should be planted about two inches deep, 
not forgetting to take them up again before the approach of 
winter. 



TIGER FLOWER. 93 

TIGER FLOWER. 

Perhaps there is no flower treated of in this work that 
is more beautiful than some of the species of the genus 
Tigridia. Like all Mexican bulbs, these are tender, and 
should either be cultivated in the green-house, or carefully 
pi'eserved until settled warm weather, and then planted in 
good light soil, in a sheltered situation. A bed of these 
beautiful flowers would afford as much gratification to some 
amateurs as a bed of Tulips. 

The Tigridia conchiflora is of a rich yellow colour, tinged 
and spotted with white and crimson ; the colours are very 
vivid and finely contrasted. The Tigridia pavonia is of the 
brightest scarlet, tinged and spotted with brilliant yellow. 
The corolla, which is about four inches in diameter, is com- 
posed of six petals ; the outer petals are thrown backward, 
and exhibit the blossom in all its splendour, which exists 
only a single day ; but as if to compensate for its transient 
visit, each plant will produce a number of flowers ; and 
where a bed of them can be collected, they will amuse their 
admirers for several weeks from July to September. In such 
case the bulbs may be planted about two inches deep, say 
nine by fifteen inches apart, toward the end of April, or early 
in May, and taken up again in October, to preserve for plant- 
ing the ensuing year. 



94 



OBSERVATIONS 



THE CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS, 



IN POTS OR GLASSES, IN THE WINTER SEASON. 



The culture of bulbous roots in a green-house, or light 
room, during the winter, is comparatively easy, provided 
two points be attended to : the first is to keep them near the 
light, and turn the pots or glasses round frequently, to prevent 
their growing crowded ; and the second is, when the plants 
have done growing, to give them little or no water ; for 
want of attention to these points, bulbs have been known to 
produce foliage year after year, without showing any sign 
of blossoms. 

All bulbs, at a certain period of the year, are in a dor- 
mant condition ; this, in a state of nature, is invariably after 
the seed has ripened ; but as, in a green-house, many of this 
family do not ripen seed, the cultivator should watch the 
period when the leaves show indications of decay ; at which 
time, the supplies of water should be lessened, and shortly 
afterward the eaith should be suffered to get dry, and remain 
80 until the season returns when the bulbs re-germinate. 

Many sorts of bulbs will keep best in pots, under the soil, 
in a dry, shady place, and in the same temperature as that 
in which they are in the habit of growing ; but others, such 
as the Hyacinth, Tulip, Narcissus, &c., may be taken out of 
the soil, and preserved as before directed, until the return 
of the proper season for replanting. 

Dutch bulbous roots intended for blooming in pots during 
the winter season should be planted during the montlis of 



CTILTITRE OF BXTLBOUS BOOTS IX RnOMS. 95 

October and Novembei', and be left in the open air until it 
begins to freeze ; and then be placed in the green-house, or in 
a room, exposed t(j the sun. They will need occasional mo- 
derate waterings until they begin to grow ; then they should 
have abundance of air in mild weather, and plenty of water 
from the saucers underneath the pots, while in a growing 
state ; and should be exposed as much as possible to the sun, 
air, and light, to prevent the foliage from growing too long, or 
becoming yellow. 

For tliis purpose, single Hyacinths, and such as are desig- 
nated earliest among the double, are to be preferred. Sin- 
gle Hyacinths are by some held in less esteem than double 
ones ; their colours, however, are more vivid, and their bells, 
though smaller, are mpre numerous ; some of the finer sorts 
are exquisitely beautiful ; they are preferable for flowering 
in winter to most of the double ones, as they bloom two or 
three weeks earlier, and are very sweet-scented. Roman 
Narcissus, double Jonquils, Polyanthus Narcissus, double 
Narcissus, and Crocuses, also make a fine appearance in 
the {--arlour during winter. It is a remarkable circumstance 
of the Crocus, that it keeps its petals expanded during tole- 
rably bright candle or lamp light, in the same manner as 
it does during the light of the sun. If the candle be removed, 
the Crocus closes its petals, as it does in a garden when a 
cloud obscures the sun ; and when the artificial light is 
restored, they open again, as they do with the return of the 
direct solar rays. 

Hyacinths and other bulbs intended for glasses should be 
placed in them about the middle of November, the glasses 
being previously filled with pui'e water, so that the bottom 
of the bulb may just touch the water ; then place them for 
the first ten days in a dark room, to promote the shooting of 
the roots ; after which expose them to the light and sun as 
much as possible ; they will blossom without the aid of the 
sun, but the colours of the flowers will be inferior. The 
water should be changed as often as it becomes impure ; 



yb CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN ROOMS. 

draw tlie roots entirely out of the glasses, linse the fibres in 
clean water, and also the glasses inside ; care should be 
taken not to suffer the water to freeze, as it not only bursts 
the glasses, but often causes the fibres to decay. Whether 
the water be hard or soft, is of no great consequence ; but 
soft, or rain water, is generally preferred, and it must be 
perfectly clear. 

Forced bulbs are seldom good for any thing afterward ; 
however, those who wish to preserve them, may immerse 
them wholly in water for a few days ; and then, having 
taken them out, and dried them in the shade for a short 
time, they may be planted in a good soil, in the garden, where 
they will sometimes flower the next year. It does not 
clearly appear in what way the water operates when the 
bulb is wholly immersed ; but it is certain that bulbs so 
treated increase in size and solidity, and have an incompara- 
bly better chance of flowering the second year, than those 
which have not been so treated ; most probably their total 
immersion enables them to obtain a greater proportion of 
oxygen from the water. 

Nosegays should have the water in which their ends are 
inserted changed, on the same principal as bulbous roots ; 
and a much faded nosegay, if not dried up, may often be 
recovered for a time, by covering it with a glass bell, or cup, 
or by substituting salt water for fresh. 

Very fine Hyacinths have been grown in a drawing-room, 
in the following novel manner. A quantity of moss, classi- 
cally called hypnum, and vulgarly fog, was placed in a water- 
tight box, about eight or nine inches deep, into which the 
bulbs were placed, at the end of September, without mould, 
and duly watered ; the result of this experiment was highly 
favourable. 



.97 
OBSERVATIONS 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE 
PLANTS. 



Having already exceeded my limits, I am compelled to be 
brief in my observations on such ornamental plants as are 
generally cultivated in hot and green-houses. Tliis descrip- 
tion of plants embraces those which are collected from vari- 
ous climates, and thrive best in a temperature and soil simi- 
lar to that in which nature first produced them : hence those 
who propagate exotic plants must provide suitable composts, 
and also separate departments, where the different degrees- 
of heat may be kept up, according to their nature and 
description. Some of these are raised from seed sown in 
the spring, others by layers, suckers, and offsets detached 
from the old plants, and many by slips or cuttings, planted 
at different seasons of the year, according to their various 
natures and state of the plants. Many kinds require the aid 
of glass coverings and bottom heat, created by fresh horse 
dung, tan, &c. [See Calendar and Index.] 

Were I to attempt to give directions for the propagation 
of ail the varieties of useful and ornamental exotic plants 
cultivated in vai'ious parts of our country, it would require 
several volumes. The catalogue of green-house plants alone, 
kept by the enterprising proprietor of the Linneean Botanic 
Garden, at Flushing, occupies fifty pages of close matter ; 
it would, therefore, be impossible to do justice to the subject 
without dividing upward of two thousand species of plants 
into classes, and treating of them under distinct heads ; I 
shall, therefore, not attempt in this edition to write largely 
on the subject. 

9 



98 MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

In order to render this woi'k useful to those who may wislk 
to avail themselves of the jileasure of nursing some of those 
beauties of nature in dwelling or green-houses during the 
most chilling days of our severe winters, and to afford; 
amusement to the ladies at a season when our gardens are 
deprived of theii* lov]ie.5t charms, I shall notice some essen- 
tial points connected with the management i)f green-house 
plants in as explicit a manner as possible, and subjoin a brief 
catalogue of such species as are most generally cultivated, 
of which there are innumerable varieties ; descriptions of 
which, with all the varied features of the floral kingdom, 
may be found in the voluminous works of Loudon, Sweet,. 
Chandler, and other English wi'iters.* 

The generality of those denominated green-house plants, 
and which are kept in rooms, should be placed where they 
can have the light of the sun, without being exposed to 
frost. Air, heat, ajid moisture are essential to the growth 
of plants; but these should be given in due proportions, 
jaccording to circumstances. In frosty weather they should 



* All the most popular Knglish books on this subject, are imported by 
G. C. Thorburn, No. 15 .Jolin street, among which are the following : 

'Loudon's Kncyclopredia of Plants,' illustrated by engravings and with 
figures of nearly ten thousand species, exemplifying several individuals 
belonging to every genus included in the work. Completed in one large 
ivoluine. Svo. — $20. 

'Loudon's Kncyclopsedia of Gardening,' comprising the Theory and 
Practice of Horticulture, Floriculture, Arboriculture, and Landscape Gar- 
dening ; including all the latest improvements. A new edition, in one 
large volume, Svo., closely printed, with upward of 700 engravings. — $12. 

' Chandlei (of London) on the Camellia;' containing ample directions 
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' Hortus liriUaiiicus ;' a Catalogue of Plants cultivated in the gardens 
of f^reat Britain, arranged in natural orders. — $6. 

' The Uritisli Flower Garden ;' containing coloured figures, and descrip- 
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MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLAN'fiS. 



99 



be kept from the external air, and watered very sparingly. 
Wlien water is necessary, it should he applied in the morn- 
ing of a mild sunny day. The plants should be kept free 
from decayed leaves, and the earth at the top of the pots 
should be sometimes loosened to a moderate depth, and 
replenished with a portion of rich compost. 

Plants kept in piivate houses are often killed with kind- 
ness. The temperature of a room in winter need not be 
more than ten degrees above freezing. If plants are liealthy, 
they may be kept so by attention to the preceding hints ; 
unhealthiness generally arises from their being subjected to 
the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture, or from total neg- 
lect.* 

In order that the ideas above advanced may be duly con- 
sidered; it may be useful to indulge in a more minute de- 
scription of the nature of plants, and to show in what man- 
ner the elements operate upon them. It is an acknowledged 
fact, tliat the roots of plants require moisture, and therefore 
penetrate the earth in search of it, and that the plants them- 
selves are greatly nourished by air, and spread their branches 
and leaves to catch as much as possible its enlivening influ- 
ence. Light also is so far essential, that there can be no 
colour without it ; witness the blanching of celery and en- 
dive, where the parts deprived of light become white ; place 

* An amateur florist of this city has sugi^ested the followinii hints in 
regard to the mana'fempnt of plants in rooms. He says that he keeps his 
plants in a room, the windows ftf which, having a southern exposure, will 
adm t the sun all .lay. The plants are placed on a table with rollers at- 
tached to the legs, which in moderate weather is kept as near to the slass 
as possible. In cold weather he removes the table into the middle of thfl 
room and places a pail of water near the plants to attr.ict the frost. He 
considers it a erer.t mistake to suppose that plants kept in warm rooms re- 
quire much Are heat, on the contrary, he contends, that a moderate degree 
of cold will agree with plants much better than a very high temperature. 
He, however, considers it needless to attempt to keep plants in a cold 
room the windows of which face the north. ,\ southeastern, or even 
eastern exposure may answer without any fire, except in very cold wea- 
ther. It may l)e observed, farther, that excessive moisture injures plants 
more than drouglit. and that plants in general do not require water wWl© 
the surface of the earth in the pots is moist. 



100 MANAGEMENT OP GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, 

a plant in almost any situation, it will invariably show a ten- 
dency to turn to the light; the sunflower is a sti iking exam- 
ple of this singular fact. As the leaves supply the plant 
with air, and the fibres of the roots with nourishment, to 
strip off the leaves or destroy the fibres is to deprive it of 
part of its means of support. 

Having shown that air and water are essential to vege- 
tation, and light to its colour, experience shows us that 
heat, in a greater or less degree, is not less necessary to 
the growth of plants ; it is therefore requisite, that in 
taking plants into our rooms, we should attend to these par- 
ticulars. 

The internal structure of plants consists of .minute and 
imperceptible pores, which serve the same important pur- 
pose in the vegetable, as veins in the animal, system ; they 
are the medium of the circulation of the sap in the former, 
as the veins are of the blood in the latter ; but it is by no 
means settled as yet by physiologists how the food of plants 
is taken up into the system, and converted into their con- 
stituent parts. 

From the foregoing considerations and facts, it is evident, 
that, as air, heat, and moisture are each essential to vegeta- 
tion, water shoixld only be given in proportion as heat and 
air are attaiirable. In the summer season, green-house 
plants may be exposed to the open air, from the early part 
of May until the end of September, by being placed on the 
ledges of windows, or on a stand erected for the purpose, 
or, in the absence of a nursery bed of flowering plants, they 
may be introduced into the regular flower-beds, to supply 
the place of such plants as may wither and die in the course 
of the summer, by being turned out (jf the pots and planted, 
or plunged in the earth with the pots. 

In the heat of the summer season, plants generally re- 
quire water every evening, and in the absence of dews, the 
earth aboiit their roots may sometimes need a little in the 
morning; but experience shows, that the roots of plants 



MANAGEMENT OP GREEN-HOTJSE PLANTS. 101 

more frequently get injured from being soddened with wa- 
ter, than from being kept moderately dry. 

Having before intimated that exotic plants will generally 
thrive best in a temperature and soil similar to that iu which 
-nature first produced them, it may be necessary to remind 
the reader, that we have the means of obtaining suitable 
composts from our own soils, and from sand, decayed leaves, 
rotten dung, and various kinds of peat, bog, and rock mould ; 
these ingredients being judiciously mixed and prepared, 
may be suited to all the various kinds of plants, and shoiild 
be used as occasion requires. 

As the roots of plants make considerable growth in the 
course of a summer, it will be necessary to examine them 
by turning them out of the pots ; this may be done in the 
latter part of August or early in September, at which time 
all matted and decayed roots should be pared off, and the 
plants shifted into larger pots, which being filled with suita- 
ble compost, and watered, will be ready for removal into the 
house on the approach of cold nights, which is generally 
early in October. 

Green -house plants require an annual pruning, and should 
be occasionally headed down, in order that their size and 
appearance may be improved ; the best time for doing this 
is soon after they have done flowering, and while they are 
in a growing state. 

Having endeavoured to furnish my readers with the arti- 
ficial means of preserving tender plants in a climate foreign 
to that in which nature first produced them, I shall call their 
attention to another class of plants well calculated for the 
windows of a house. 

I allude to the many beautiful varieties of the Chinese 
Chrysanthemum; these are frequently cultivated in pots, 
and may be taken from the ground and put into pots, even 
when in full flower, without injury, and when the bloom is 
over, returaed to the garden. In the spring following they 
will throw up an abundance of suckers. 

9* 



IfiS 



CiailYS ANTHE MUMS . 



The following list contains some of the best varieties of 
the Chrysanthemum, and are entitled to a place in every 
flower garden. In October and November, when the wan- 
ing year has left our gardens comparatively cheerless, these, 
with their various colours, deck them out in gayety, and pro- 
long the semblance of summer. They are pei-fectly hardy, 
and will brave our severest winters. 



The gold bordered red ; 
the petals are red, 
striped ivitk golden 
yellow- 

White quilled. 

Pale buir, or orange. 

Changeable, red mid 
ora.iifie on same plant. 

Lilac quilled. 

P.nseooloured, or pink. 

Lilac and white, change- 
able, the flowers vary 
to nine, to white with 
a purple centre, and 
to pure white. 

Dark crimson, or Span 
ish brown. 

Straw coloured quilled. 

Gulden yellow. 

Tasselled white. 



Semi-double quilled do. 
Paper white, 
fiuilled light purple. 
Kxpandcd do. do. 
Quilled yellow. 
Double Indian yellow^. 
Double Indian white. 
Dark purple. 
Karly blush. 
Golden Lotus. 
Quilled purple. 
Starry purple. 
I'ark's small yellow, J?ne. 
Quilled salmon. 
Semi-double quilled. 
Pale orange. 
Two-coloured red. 
Curled buff, or salmon. 
Large lilac. 
Late pale purple. 



QUilled fine yellow. 
Sulphur do. 
Superb clustered do. 
Small do. 

•iingle flame yellow. 
Quilled pink. 
Quilled orange. 
Karly crimson. 
Curled lilac. 
Two-coloured inctlrved. 
Blush ranunculus. 
Late quilled purple. 
Tasselled lilac. 
Tasselled yellow. 
Yellow waratah. 
Pale lilac. 
Large buff, superb. 
Barclay's. 
A Iton's. 
Sabine's. 



Chrysanthemums may be propagated from hardy cut- 
tings, and each plant wiil produce several suckers, which 
may be separated every spring. As the flowers are liable 
to be injured by the rain in autumn, it is advisable to take 
up a few plants, and place them in a light room or green- 
house, which will joreserve them for some time. 

Many people keep their late blooliiing plants in the house 
through the winter ; this is a bad practice, as the heat and 
want of air will exhaust or destroy the plants altogether. If 
the flowers fade before haid frost prevails, it is best either to 
plunge the pots into the ground with the plants, or to turn 
them out of the pots and plant them, with the balls of earth 
entire, into the borders of the flower garden. 

Early in May, such as may be intended for potting the 
ensuing season should be divided at the roots, if not potted, 



CATALOGUE OP GilElEN-HOUSB PLANTS. fOS 

and planted, each kind by itself. One single stem is suiE- 
cient for a JTiodei'ate sized pot, if the object be to have bushy 
plants ; but if shuwy plants are desired, one of each of the 
varied colours may be selected for each pot, w^hich should be 
sufficiently capacious to hold them without crowding them, 
as this will cause the plants to grow weak and slender. If 
such happens early in the summer, a stocky growth may be 
produced by clipping the tops, and they will bloom in great 
perfection in their usual season. 



INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUE OF 
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

To promote brevity and avoid tautology, I here submit 
llie following statement : 

That the directions accompanying GUI' catalogue of Atj- 
nual, Biennial, and Perennial Flower Seed, will apply td 
such plants in the green-house department as are ordinarily 
raised from seed. 

That the directions annexed to the catalogue of Flower- 
ing and Ornamental Shrubs, including pi'opagation by cut- 
tings, layers, &c., are applicable to a great portion of the 
plants hereinafter described, and that the exceptions ails 
shown in the monthly calendar. 

That such Bulbous roots as are generally embraced \h 
green-house catalogues, from their being adapted to artificial 
culture, have been already treated of, under each head, in 
numerous articles ; to which the reader is referred. 

That, with the exception of hot-house plants, which re- 
quire a uniformly warm climate to perpetuate their exis- 
tence, all such other tender and half-hardy plants as need 
protection in winter, may come under the denomination of 
green-house plants ; some species however, may, notwith- 
standing, be preserved in frames, pits, cellars, or warm 
rooms. 



104 CATALOGUE OP GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

That many of those species designated thus § and thus f 
in our first two catalogues, are of such description ; and as 
they have been treated of in the chapters thereto annexed, 
the following catalogue and explication will be necessarily 
brief, when compared with one general catalogue of exotic 
plants. 



DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE. 

Acacia. Of this and the Mimosa, which are by some con- 
sidered as one genus, there are upward of a hundred spe- 
cies and varieties, suited for artificial culture. The blossoms, 
which are generally straw colour and yellow, except the most 
tender, some of which are crimson, succeed each other from 
February to June. 

Jlgapantktis. A beautiful species of Lily, producing large 
blue flowers from Apiil to June ; some varieties have striped 
leaves and delicate white blossoms. 

Aloe. Of this genus there are numerous species and v.i- 
rieties, some of which are very curious, being possessed of 
all the varied forms and figures peculiar to succulent plants. 
Some species flower annually from March to September, 
and all, except the Century Aloe, blossom frequently ; the 
colours are generally yellow, jsink, and red. The singular 
figure and habits of these plants render them desirable for 
green-house culture. 

Alstrcemeria. Of this genus of plants there are several 
species, which have tuberous roots. The flowers of the va- 
rieties are of different shades, as rose coloured, scarlet, yel- 
low, red, &c. ; and some are variegated, as the Alstrtzmeria 
psittacina, which is red, yellow, and green, and the A. tri- 
color, which is black, white, and yellow. They are beauti- 
ful plants when kept in good order. 

Arbutus, European Strawberry Tree. A half-hardy ever- 
green shrub, of which there are several species and varie- 



CATALOGUE <JF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 105 

ties, producing crimson and pink blossoms, and fniit which 
remain on the plant a considerable time. 

Jirdesia, Chinese Ardesia. This is generally cultivated 
as a hot-house plant ; and if kept in the green-house, should 
be placed in a warm situation. There are several species, 
producing oblong shining leaves, pink flowers, and red ber- 
ries, which are very ornamental. 

Aster argophylliis, Musk Plant. A plant of no great 
beauty, but esteemed by some for its musky fragrance ; 
leaves ovate, lanceolate, and silky beneath. 

Aucuba Japonica. A half-hardy shrub, with pale green 
leaves spotted vdth yellow. It produces small purple blos- 
soms, but is desirable for its foliage only : to preserve which 
in good condition, shade in the summer is absolutely ne- 
cessary. 

Azalea. The Chinese species of Azalea are numerous 
and beautiful, producing blossoms of various hues, as white, 
purple, scarlet, yellow, &c., and some are striped and spot- 
ted, which succeed each other from February to May, under 
good cultivation.* 

Banksia, A genus of plants named in honour of Sir 
Joseph Banks, of which there are over twenty species, all 
curious in flower, and variable in foliage ; colours, yellow 
and green. They generally blossom from May to August. 

Beaufortia. There are two species of this beautiful shrub, 
yielding scarlet and pink flowers from the sides of their 
stalks, from May to July. 

Bellis perennis. Daisy. This half-hardy dwarf species, of 
which there are several varieties, as recorded in our Peren- 
nial Catalogue, are worthy of farther notice, from their yield- 

* A skilful florist, Mr. William Russell, has some hybrids which he 
raised, by crosses between the different species of Azaleas and Rhododen- 
drons, both of the hardy and choicest green-house varieties. He has 
already flowered several plants which partake of the Rhododendron in 
the umbels, and embrace all the good qualities of the Azalea. He intends 
to propagate these rare plants for sale, at his establishment, in Brooklyn, 
Long Island. 



106 CATALOGUE OP GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

ing thousands of button-formed flowers from January to July, 
or until checked by the summer heat, from which they should 
be screened, by being planted in a shaded border in the 
spring. The colours are white, red, and variegated, and 
some, called Hen and Chicken Daisies, grow in clusters. 

Bletia Tankervilli. A delicate plant, producing spikes of 
purple flowers, similar to the Hyacinth, from April to July. 

Bouvardia. Mexican Bouvardia. A beautiful plant, pro- 
ducing brilliant scarlet flowers from May to September, when 
carefully cultivated. 

Baronia. There are several species of this plant, natives 
of New Holland ; the flowers of some are star-like, rose- 
coloured, and sweet-scented ; in perfection in April and May. 

Bruma. This species of plants have foliage similar to the 
Erica, but the leaves are three-cornered ; the plants when 
young are very handsome. Bnmia nodifiora produces chaste 
white globular flowers in abundance. There are several other 
varieties highly esteemed by amateurs. 

Brimsvigia Josephince. This cape bulb produces splendid 
rose-coloured flowers in large umbels, on a stem about two 
feet high. There are several other species, some of which 
produce scarlet, others purple, and variegated blossoms, in 
perfection, when cultivated in a warm green-house. 

Btiddlea madagascariensis. This plant, when properly 
cultivated, will blossom freely during wdnter, producing 
spikes of orange-coloured flowers, of an agreeable fragrance^ 

Buonap art ea June ea. This is a curious low-growing plant, 
with long narrow leaves, and spikes of small blue flowers, 
which, when cultivated in a warm situation, will continue 
sometime in bloom. 

Burchellia. A d warf evergreen shrub, producing orange- 
coloured flowers in large terminal clusters, from March to 
June. 

Cactus. Of this family of plants there are numerous 
species, supposed to be of different genera, from the varia- 
tion of their character and habits. Some are denominated 



CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 



107 



Cereus, others Epijjhylhms, Mamillarias, etc. The night 
blooming Cereus is much celebrated. They all belong to the 
hot-house, but succeed well in a warm room or good green- 
house. Some are formed into erect pyramids, others are of 
a trailing habit ; and all produce from the sides of their suc- 
culent stalks and leaves, beautiful crimson, scarlet, white, or 
pink flowers, from March to August. 

Calceolaria. Of this species of delicate dwarf plants, 
there are several splendid varieties annually raised from 
seed ; producing red, yellow, and orange-coloured flowers 
from April to August, when shaded from the noonday sun ; 
they will otherwise suffer from heat. 

Calothamnus. A beautiful evergreen shrub, similar to a 
dwarf pine, producing scarlet blossoms from the old wood, 
from April to November. 

Callicoma serratifolia. A beautiful plant, producing tufted 
yellow heads of flowers from May to July. 

Camellia. Of this admired winter-blooming genus of 
plants, there are several distinct species, the varieties from 
many of which multiply annually. Its durable glossy foHage, 
and splendid flowers, which excel those of any other plant, 
will insure it a pre-eminence in every green -house ; as in 
good collections, flowers of various hues may be gathered 
from October to May. 

Cheiranthus. Under this title have been generally em- 
braced all those fragrant and beautiful half-hardy species of 
Biennial Plants known as Wall and Gilly Flowers ; the lat- 
ter species is now, however, denominated Mathiola in our 
catalogues. The beautiful blossoms and dehcious fi-agrance 
of these famihes, from February to June, entitle them to 
more than a passing notice. Their perfumes are exquisite. 

Cineraria cruenta. Canary Aster. A dwarf half-shrubby 
plant, producing purple flowers in April and May. • 

Cineraria maritima. Silvery-leaved Ragwort, or Powdered 
Beau. A white plant, producing bright yellow globular 
flowers from April to June or July. 



108 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

Cistus. Rock Rose. A half-hardy dwarf shrub, of whiclj 
there are upward of twenty species, natives of Europe ; the 
flowers, which are white and purple, multiply abundantly in 
May and June. 

Citrus. Orange, Lemon, &c. This genus embraces the 
Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shaddock, &c.y of each of which 
there are several varieties. They are indispensable in a good 
green-house, for their handsome evergreen foliage, and odor- 
iferous blossoms, and beautiful golden fruit, which by careful 
cultivation may be kept constantly on the plants. Those 
varieties with variegated, yellow, and gi-een foliage, are very 
generally admired. 

Clethra arbor ea variegata. A fine sweet-scented shrub,, 
producing spikes of white downy blossoms ; the leaves are 
oblong and serrated, having a gold-coloured edge. 

Corrca. A genus of dwarf shrubby plants, consisting of 
several species, producing their orange, white, red, and green 
blossoms frequently in the winter, and sometimes in May or 
June. 

Coronilla glauca. A desirable green-house dwarf shrub, 
yielding numerous sweet-scented yellow flowers in clusters, 
from January to April. There are other varieties which 
blossom in summer. 

Cotyledon orbiculata. Cape Navelwort. A succulent plant, 
producing finger-like suckers and successional joints, which 
blossom annually ; the curiosity of the foliage, however, is 
its chief recommendation. 

Crassula. A species of dwarf succulent plants, producing 
scarlet and variegated wax-like flowers from April to June 
or July. 

Crinum amahile. A large beautiful flowering bulb, of 
which there are several species, chiefly calculated for hot- 
house culture, where some varieties frequently yield three 
stems of beautiful crimson, purple, or white flowers in a 
year. 

Cypi'ipedium insignis. This species is known by the name 



CATAIiOOtTE OP GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 109 

of Lady's Slipper plant ; the flowers, which are green and 
purple, have a waxy appearance, and are similar in shape 
to an Indian shoe. It should be cultivated in a warm, moist 
situation. 

Daphne odora. A beautiful dwarf evergreen shrub, yield- 
ing white fragrant blossoms in many-flowered terminal heads, 
from December to March. There are other species and 
varieties, one of which has its leaves edged vdth yellow. 

Dianthus. Under this name are embraced the admirable 
species of Carnations, Picotees, Pinks, Sweet Williams, &c., 
recorded in our catalogue of Perennials ; and which are in 
universal esteem for the fragrance and beauty of their flow- 
ers, which succeed each other from May to August, They 
are all hardy, except the Carnation and Picotee tiibes, which 
are well deserving green-house or frame culture. 

Diosma. A dwarf genus of heath-leaved shrubs, producing 
numerous small flowers of a white colour from March to 
May. Some of the varieties are sweet-scented. 

Dinjandrus. To this genus belong several species, similar 
to the .Banhsias ; they are delicate plants, producing orange 
and straw coloured thistle-like flowers in abundance. 

Eckeveria. This genus of succulent plants are natives of 
Mexico and California. Some of the species produce green 
and red blossoms ; the flowers of the variety pidveridenia are 
red, and the foliage is covered with powder, which gives it a 
beautiful appearance. 

Epacris. This is a native of New South "Wales, of which 
there are several species, mostly erect-growing plants, vary- 
ing from two to four feet; the leaves are small, and the 
blossoms, which, in different varieties, are crimson, pink, 
purple, and white, are, under good cultivation, abundant from 
January to June. 

Eranihemum. This species belong to the hot-house, and 
will not flower in perfection without plenty of heat. The 
Eranihemum pidchellum produces flowers of a fine blue colour 
from December to April ; and the Erantheimim bicoloi^ will 

10 



110 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

yield purple and white flowers from April to August, under 
good cultivation. 

Erica, Heath. Upward of five hundred species and vaiie- 
ties of this plant are cultivated in Great Britain, where a 
continued succession of bloom is kept up from January to 
December; the most prominent colours are white, scarlet, 
purple, yellow, and red. They are desirable plants to culti- 
vate in any country, as they furnish material for the bouquet 
in winter, but they must be screened from the noonday sun 
in summer, and only moderately watered ; as extremes of 
drought or moisture are destructive to this family of plants. 

Erythrina, Coral plant. There are several species of this 
plant, chiefly adapted to the hot-house, producing long spikes 
of crimson or scarlet flowers. Some keep them in good 
condition in a gieen-house ; they must, however, be well 
attended to, and frequently re-potted, which will sometimes 
induce them to bloom two or three times in a year. 

EscaUo7iia. There are several species of this plant, 
some of which will survive the winters of our Southern 
States. When cultivated in a green-house as half-haxdy 
shrubs, they yield their red, white, and pink flowers through- 
out a long season. 

Enonymus. This plant is called by some the variegated 
Camellia ; the flowers are not very showy, but the silvery 
and golden edged foliage of the different varieties, render 
them very attractive. They are natives of China. 

Euphorbia. There are several species of this plant adapted 
to the green-house, some of which are beautiful, especially 
the E. splendens, and Poinsett's scarlet, or Euphorbia Poin- 
selti. They flower freely from December to May, if kept in 
a warm part of the house. 

Eupatorium elegans. A dwarf plant, producing white 
sweet-scented flowers early in the spring ; to promote bushi- 
ness, the plant, after blossoming, should be closely pruned. 

Eutaxia myrtifolia. A beautiful little evergreen shrub ; 
foliage small, but very neat, furnishing numerous red and 



CATALOGUE OP GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. HI 

yellow-coloured blossoms from March to May, under good 

culture. 

Ficus elastica, India-rubber tree, and Ficus australis, are 
both evergreen plants, and grow luxuriantly in a green- 
house ; the foliage, which is large and glossy, is pink on the 
under side. 

Ficus, Fig Tree. A plant easily cultivated, of which 
there are many species and varieties, which, kept in pots or 
tubs, in a temperature adapted to the Orange tree, will fruit 
freely, and ripen two crops a year. 

Fuchsia, Lady's Ear-drop. Of this beautiful shrub there 
are several varieties, producing clusters of small scarlet 
flowers, the stamens of which are encircled with a petal of 
purple ; in bloom from April to September. 

Gardenia, Cape Jasmine. A very popular evergreen 
plant, producing white fragrant rose-like flowers from May 
to August. There are several species and varieties, some 
of which are more dwarfish than others, but all are desirable. 
Gelsemium nitidim, Carolina Jasmine. A beautiful climb- 
ing evergreen, producing in the month of May large yellow 
trumpet-like blossoms, of deHcious fragrance. 

Gloxinia. A desirable herbaceous plant, of which there 
are several varieties, yielding beautiful showy flowers; 
colours, blue, lilac, and white. 

Gnapalium, Everlasting Flower. Of this plant there are 
several species or varieties, some of which yield clusters of 
yellow flowers, and others red, from March to June. 

Gnidia, Flax-leaved Gnidia. A dwarf shrub, of which 
there are several varieties, furnishing pretty tubular and 
corymbose straw-coloured flowers in the vdnter and spring. 
Grevillea. There are several species of this evergreen 
dwarf shrub, which are very handsome in flower and foliage. 
The flowers of some grow in racemose spikes, and of others 
on flowering branches ; the colours are white, rose, green, 
and straw or light yellow. They yield seed, and are easily 
cultivated. 



112 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

Heliotropium, Peruvian Heliotrope. A species of soft 
shrubby dwarf plants, which, when cultivated in a warm 
situation, will yield abundance of delicate blue or purple 
flowers from January to September. 

Helychrysum, Eternal Flower. There are several species 
and varieties of this plant, producing soft downy foliage and 
durable flowers, which, if cut before they are too far advanced , 
vidll retain their splendour several years. 

Hibbertia. A species of climbing evergreen shrubs, which 
yield fine yellow flowers in succession from May to Septem- 
ber, under good culture. 

Hibisciis Chmensis. This half-hardy herbaceous plant is 
worthy of a place in the green-house, as some species will 
yield flowers six inches in diameter, if well attended to and 
frequently watered ; the colours are crimson and blush. 

Hovea. This is a pea-flowering evergreen shrub, of which 
there are several species, natives of New South "Wales. The 
Hovea celsii is a beautiful runner, yielding numerous blue 
flowers. 

Hoya, Wax Plant. A fine climbing species, adapted to 
the hot-house ; the leaves being succulent, green, and fleshy, 
they require considerable heat and but little water. Some 
produce pink flowers, and others white, in April and May. 

Hydrangea hortensis. The Hydrangea is a well-known 
deciduous, half-hardy, soft-wooded shrub, producing large 
pink balls of blossom, when cultivated in a shaded border, 
from May to October ; and by mixing iron dust from a 
blacksmith's shop with the soil, or by growing the plants in 
swamp earth, or mould from decayed leaves, the flowers 
will become blue. 

Hyperimm, St. John's Wort. A half-hardy little plant, 
producing yellow flowers from April to June. There are 
several species, some producing scarlet blossoms. 

niicum, Aniseed Tree. A dwarf species of shrub, the 
leaves of which, when rubbed, smell like anise ; some pro- 
duce red, and others yellow flowers, in March and Aprils. 



CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOTTSE PLANTS. 113 

Indigofera, Indigo Tree. A free floweiing shrub, of which 
there are several species ; the flowers, which grow in long 
pinnacles, are red, yellow, and pink. 

Jacarandus. A genus of evergreen shrubs, of easy cul- 
ture, containing five species, most of which produce blue or 
purple flowers, on loose branching pannicles, in abundance. 

Jambosa vulgaris. This species of evergreen shrub is 
generally called Rose Apple, from its producing rose-scented 
fruit, which is about an inch in diameter, and eatable. There 
are several varieties, yielding either white, rose, green, or 
straw-coloured flowers in erect spreading stamens. They 
are of easy culture. 

Jasminum, Jasmine. Of this favourite genus there are 
several species, of various complexions. The Catalonian 
Jasmine, or J. grandifiorim, produces white fragrant blos- 
soms in winter ; the Indian Jasmine, or J. odoratissimim, 
and also the J. revohdum, yield very sweet-scented yellow 
flowers from April to June, and the J. officinale, a climbing 
plant, blossoms through the summer. 

Justicia. The plants of this genus are generally cultiva- 
ted in the hot-house ; some produce scarlet flowers in large 
terminale spikes, from December to March, and others 

purple. 

Kmnedia. A beautiful evergreen chmber, of which there 
are several species, producing blossoms of various hues, as 
scarlet, blue, crimson, and purple, from February to June. 

Lao-erstrcBinia. A half-hardy deciduous plant, the roots 
of which, if planted in the garden in March, will produce 
large spikes of red flowers, from May to August. 

Lantana. A genus of dwarf shrubs, which being culti- 
vated in the hot-house, or a warm green-house, will yield 
their blossoms in April and May; the species are of va- 
rious colours ; yellow, orange, pink, white, purple, and va- 
riable. 

Laums nobilis, Laurel. This evergreen shrub is by some 
esteemed for its fragi'ant leaves ; there are several species 

10* 



114 CATALOGUE OP GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

distinguished as sweet bay, royal bay, &c., and some species 
are without scent. 

Lavendula, Lavender. A species of soft-wooded, half- 
hardy plants with narrow, scented leaves, yielding spikes of 
fragrant blue flowers in May and June. 

Lechenaultia formosa. A dwarf plant with heath-like 
foliage and bright scarlet blossoms ; in bloom a long season, 
under good culture. 

Leptospermum. This genus is somewhat celebrated froni 
the leaves of the species L. scoparium being used by the 
crew of Captain Cook's ship as a substitute for Tea, the 
leaves having an agreeable bitter flavour; the blossoms, 
which are small, are white. 

Leucadendron, Silver Tree. A neat evergreen shrub with 
silver-like foliage, of which there are several species, all 
admirable for their beauty. 

Linum, Flax. Two species of this plant are worthy of 
cultivation in a green-house, where they will bloom in Feb- 
ruary and March. The Linwm trigynum produces large yel- 
low flowers in clusters, and Linum ascyrifolium yields spikes 
of blue and white flowers, which are similar to those of the 
Convolvulus. 

Lobelia. There are several species of this plant, which 
are generally herbaceous ; they produce an abundance of 
little flowers of brilliant colours. The Lobelia criims is a 
pretty trailing plant, yielding numerous blue flowers all the 
summer. 

Lychnis coronata, Coronet-flowered Lychnis. This half- 
hardy plant, embraced in our catalogue of Perennials, is 
worthy of protection, from its furnishing trusses of beautiful 
orange scarlet flowers, from June to August. As it yields 
no seed, the roots should be taken from the ground ni 
autumn, and returned the ensuing spring. 

Magnolia. Most of the species of this justly-admired 
genus are hardy, and blossom in the summer; there are, 
however, some of the Chinese varieties, which, cultivated 



CATALOGUE OF GKEEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 1]5 

in a green-house, will produce their beautiful purple, yel- 
low, and white blossoms, from January to April, 

Melaleucas. A beautiful genus of plants, natives of New 
Holland; the diveisity of their foliage and singularity of 
flowers, some of which are scarlet, and shoot from the 
wood like fringes, render them worthy of good cultiva- 
tion. 

JVfenettia. This is a desirable climber, of which there 
are several species ; some produce variegated flowers, others 
bright scarlet, and the variety cordijlora is curious as well 
as beautiful. 

Mesembryanthemum. A genus of succulent plants, con- 
sisting of hundreds of species and varieties, chiefly natives 
of the Cape of Good Hope. They vary greatly in their 
forms, attitudes, and habits of growth ; some are upright, 
others procumbent ; some are thick, others cimeter or slen- 
der-leaved. They are all singular, and many of them beau- 
tiful. The colours of the flowers, which are of every shade, 
are great ornaments from May to August ; some species and 
varieties are cultivated as annuals in the flower garden, 
where they prove a great acquisition. 

Metrosideros. A genus of Australasian shrubs, some spe- 
cies of which are willow and others spear-leaved, producing 
their cones of scarlet or white flowers from March to May. 

Myyfus, Myrtle. A genus of dwarf evergreen shrubs, 
of which there are several species and varieties ; the foliage 
is chiefly glossy and fragi'ant, yielding numerous small flow- 
ers. There are some species known as Cape Myrtles, or 
Marsines, which also yield abundance of white and purple 
flowers from March to May. 

JVandiim domestica, Japan Nandina. A half-hardy ever- 
green shrub ; leaves supra-decompound, vnth entire lanceo- 
late leaflets ; a kind of foliage that is very rare. 

JVerium, Oleander. A well-known and admired shrub, 
yielding clusters of rose-like flowers from May to Septem- 
ber. The JYeriiim splendens is the most esteemed of the red 



116 CATALOGUE OP GKEEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

varieties ; the true double white and striped are very rare ; 
but some of those cultivated for sale, producing semi-double 
flowers, are by no means desirable. 

Oka fragrance, Dwarf Olive. This variety of the Olive 
recommends itself to notice, for its dwarf habit of growth, 
and from the foliage and white blossoms being highly odo- 
riferous ; from March to May. 

Passiflara, Passion flower. Of this celebrated genus of 
climbing plants, there are several species and varieties, 
which produce splendid flowers of various colours, red, blue, 
white, purple, scarlet, &c., beautifully contrasted, and some 
species yield fruit. They generally blossom from May to 
September, and some will flower in the hot-house in winter. 

Felargonium, Geranium. The species and varieties of 
this beautiful genus is supposed to exceed a thousand, which 
are of every character, colour, and lineament, and some so 
beautifully blended as to astonish the beholder ; the agree- 
able fragrance also, of which many of them are possessed, 
will always render them favourites to amateur florists. The 
best blooming season is from April to June, or July. 

Piitospornm. A Chinese evergreen shrub, with handsome 
glossy foliage, yielding numerous white clusters of flowers 
in April and May, which are of delicious fragrance. There 
are several species, one of which is variegated. 

Plumbago capensis, Cape Plumbago. A beautiful dwarf 
plant, with oblong leaves, yielding numer&us spikes of showy 
blue flowers nearly all the summer. 

Polygaia cordati, Heart-shaped Polygata. A beautiful 
little plant, producing abundance of rich purple flowers 
nearly all the winter. 

Protea. A beautiful race of plants, the foliage of which 
is very diversified, and the flowers also; being red, white, 
straw, brown, green, and purple, and most of these colours 
are frequently to be seen on the same plant ; in flower from 
March to June. 

Primula. In this sfeniis are embraced all the varieties of 



CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, 117 

the Primrose, Polyanthus, Auricula, Cowslip, Oxlip, &c., 
already inserted in our Biennial and Perennial catalogues. 
The flowers, which appear early in spring, are mostly sweet- 
scented, and of various colours, red, white, yellow, lilac, 
purple, crimson, &c., which in some are beautifully varie- 
gated. The above are natives of England ; besides which 
are two varieties, white and pink, natives of China, produ- 
cing umbels of flowers from January to May. 

Pijrus Japonica alba, or Cydonia Japonica. One of the 
earliest flowering dwarf shrubs of the garden, producing 
beautiful blush flowers ; there is another variety, which pro- 
duces scarlet blossoms, already described in our catalogue 
of shrubs. ^ 

Reseda, Mignonette. This fragrant little plant has been 
already treated of as an annual ; it may, however, be kept 
under cultivation from January to December, by sowing 
seed at different seasons in a green-house or warm room. 

Rhododendron, Rose Bay. A beautiful genus of plants, 
chiefly natives of India, furnishing clusters of flowers of 
various shades, as purple, scarlet, or crimson, and these va- 
riegated in spots and flakes ; in flower from March to May. 

Rosea, Rose. This Queen of Flowers, so universally ad- 
mired, nature seems to have distributed over the whole 
civilized world; and varieties have been so multiplied of 
late years, as to render it difficult to make a judicious choice ; 
many of the new varieties, however, being shy bloomers, 
are not so desirable for green-house culture as the common 
China Rose, a select assortment of which, carefully culti- 
vated, will produce blossoms from January to December. 

Rosmarinns, Rosemary. A fragrant, half-hardy, slender- 
. leaved plant, which has been held in great esteem for ages. 
In some parts of Europe it is customary to distribute sprigs 
among the guests at weddings and funerals. 

Ruella. A desirable plant, of which there are several 
species ; they produce purple or scarlet tunnel-shaped flow- 
ers from December to March. 



118 CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

Salvia, Mexican Sage. A free-blooming plant, produ- 
cing in the different species, scarlet and blue flowers in 
spiked whorls ; cuttings of which, if taken from stock plants 
in the green house early in spring, and planted in good gar- 
den soil, will embellish the borders three or four months of 
the summer. 

Sempervivum arboreum, Tree House Leek. A succulent 
plant, similar to the common house leek, on a dwarfish stem ; 
by some admired as an evergreen. 

Stapelia. A genus of dwarf succulent plants, producing 
beautiful purple, striped, freckled, and star-like flowers, 
within six inches of the surface ; in its varieties from May to 
November. 

Stevia serrata, Vanilla-scented Stevia. This plant, al- 
though usually cultivated as an annual, is worthy of green- 
house culture, from its affording fragrant and ornamental 
materials for bouquets the whole winter. 

Strelitzia regina, Queen's Strelitz. A beautiful dwarf 
plant, producing from a stalk fi-om one to two feet long, 
several flowers of a bright yellow, contrasted with blue, from 
May to September. 

Tecoma capensis. A perennial plant, producing orange- 
coloured trumpet flowers in clusters, very similar to the 
Bigonia tribe, toward the end of summer. 

Thea, Tea. Of this celebrated Chinese plant, which sup- 
plies a great portion of the human family with their domes- 
tic beverage, there are two varieties, Thea virdis and Thea 
bohea. The plants, when cultivated in a green-house, are 
by no means of rapid growth, nor are the flowers, which are 
white, of any great beauty. 

Tussilago fragrance. A half-hardy herbaceous Perennial . 
plant, by some much esteemed for its heliotrope-scented 
blossoms, which spring up in clusters from December to 
March. 

Verbena triphylla, named in some catalogues Jiloysa cHri- 
odora, A deciduous shrub, generally admired for the fra- 



CATALOGUE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 119 

grance of its leaves,, which is its chief recommendation, the 
blossoms, which are white, being small. 

Verbena, Splendid Verbena. A tribe of plants increasing 
in variety annually, and which already embrace every shade 
of colour, scarlet, blue, rose, lilac, white, pink, &c. Planted 
in the flower borders, they impart beauty and variety through 
the summer, and cultivated in the green-house, they embel- 
lish it a great part of the winter. 

Viburnum tinus, Laurustinus. A much-admired half- 
hardy evergreen shrub, producing clusters of white blos- 
soms from January to May. There are other species very 
similar in habit, and one with striped leaves. 

Viola, Violet. Of these beauties of the garden, some of 
which are denominated " Florist's Flowers," there are up- 
ward of a hundred species and varieties. The early Violets 
are highly fragrant, and the variety and beauty of the Pan- 
sey tribe almost exceed description or conception. As these 
splendid dwarf plants decorate the green-house and flower 
borders from January to December, they are worthy of care- 
ful cultivation. 

Yucca aloe-folia, and its beautiful variety, variegata, are 
desirable plants to cultivate, from their singular appearance, 
contrasted with other plants. Their blossoms, which are 
white, grow in spikes, but the plants do not flower much 
until several years old. 



The following invaluable compendium is from the pen of 
John Lindley, F. R. S., Professor of Botany in the Univer- 
sity of London, and Associate Secretary of the Horticultural 
Society, &c. &c. As this outline embraces the very essence 
of Horticulture and Floriculture, it is well adapted as an 
appendage to this department of the work. 



120 



AN OUTLINE 



FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HORTICULTURE. 



I. GrENHERAX, NaTTIRE OF PlANTS. , 

1. HoKTicuLTDRE is the application of the arts of cultivation, multipli- 
cation, and domestication to the vegetable kingdom. Agriculture and 
Arboriculttire are branches of Horticulture. 

2. The vegetable kingdom is composed of living beings, destitute of sensa- 
tion, with no power of moving spontaneously from place to place, and 
caUed plants. 

3. Plants are organized bodies, consisting of masses of tissue that is per- 
meable by fluids or gaseous matter. 

4. Vegetable tissue consists either of minute bladders, or tubes adhering 
by their contiguous surfaces, and leaving intermediate passages where they 
do not touch. " 

5. Tissue is called Cellular when it is composed of minute bladders, 
which either approach the figure of a sphere, or are obviously some modi- 
fication of it, supposed to be caused by extension or lateral compression. 

6- When newly formed it is in a very lax state, and possesses great powers 
of absorption ; probably on account of the excessive permeability of its 
membrane, and the imperfect cohesion of its cells. 

7. Cellular tissue, otherwise called Parenchyma, constitute the soft and 
brittle parts of plants ; such as pith, pulp, the spaces between the veins of 
leaves, the principal part of the petals, and the lite. 

S. Succulent plants are such as have an excessive developement of cel- 
lular tissue. 

9. It may be considered the most essential kind of tissue, because, while 
no plants exist without it, many are composed of nothing else. 

10. Tissue is called Woody Fibre when it is composed of slender tubes, 
which are conical and closed at each end. and placed side by side. 

11. Woody fibre is what causes stiffness and tenacity in certain parts of 
plants ; hence it is found in the veins of leaves, and in bark, and it con- 
stitutes the principal part of the wood. 

12. Vascular Tissue is that in which either an ela.«tic tough thread is 
generated spirally within a tube that is closed and conical at each end ; or 
rows of cylindrical cellules, placed end to end, finally become continuous 
tubes by the loss of their ends. 

13. The most remarkable form of vascular tissue is the Spiral Vessel, 
which has the power of rolling with elasticity when stretched. 



ROOT. 121 

1 4. Other kinds of vascular tissue are incapable of unrolling, but break 
when stretched. 

15. Spiral vessels are not found in the wood or bark, and rarely in the 
roots of plants. 

16. Vascular tissue of other kinds is confined to the root, stem, veins of 
leaves, petals, and other parts composed of leaves. It is not found in bark. 

17. The common office of the tissue is to convey fluid or air, and to act 
as the receptacle of secretions. 

18. Cellular tissue conveys fluids in all directions, absorbs with great 
rapidity, is the first cause of the adhesions that take place between con- 
tiguous parts, and is the principal rccept-acle of secreted matter. 

19. Adhesion will take place at all times during the growing season, 
when the cellular tissues of two different parts, or of two different plants, 
is kept for some time in contact ; but as none but tissues of nearly the 
same nature will adhere, grafting and budding, which are caused by the 
adhesion of contiguous parts, can only take place either between different 
varieties of the same species, or between nearly related species ; and even 
then only when the corresponding parts of the scion or bud, and the stock, 
are placed in contact. 

20. Woody fibre conveys fluid in the direction of its length, gives stiff- 
ness and flexibility to the general system, and acts as a protection to spiral 
and other delicate vessels. 

21. Spiral vessels convey oxygenated air. 

22. Other vessels probably conduct fluid when young, and air when old. 

23. As the bodies of which aU tissue is composed are perfectly simple, 
unbranched, and regular in figure, having, when elongated, their two extremi- 
ties exactly alike, they are more or less capable of conveying gaseous mat- 
ter or fluids in any direction ; and, consequently a current may be reversed 
in them without inconvenience : hence inverted cuttings or stems will grow. 

24. AU parts of plants are composed of tissue, whether they be soft, as 
pulp ; or hard, as the bony lining of a peach. 

25. With regard to Horticultural operations, the parts of plants should 
be considered under the heads of Root (II.) ; Stem (III.) ; Leaf Buds 
(IV.); Leaves (V.); Flowers (VI.); Sexes (VII.); Fruit (VIII.); and 
Seed (IX). 

n. Root. 

26. The Root is the part that strikes into the earth when a seed begins 
to germinate, and which afterward continues to lengthen beneath the soil. 

27. It is also the part which is sometimes emitted by the stem, for the 
purpose of absorbing nutriment from the atmosphere ; as in Ivy, Air- 
Plants, Vines, &c. 

28. It is distinguished from the stem by the absence of leaves in any 
state, of regular leaf-buds (IV.); of evaporating pores or stomata (131) ; 
and of pith in Exogenous plants. 

29. Therefore, such underground bodies as those called Tuber (61) in 
the Potato ; Bulb (96) in the Onion; and solid Bulb or Ccxrmus (61) in 
the Crocus, are not roots. 

30. The office of the root is to absorb food in a fluid or gaseous state ; 
and also to fix the plant in the soil, or to some firm suppoit 

u 



192 ROOT. 

31. The latter office is essential to the certain and regular performance 
of the former. 

32. It is not by the whole of their surface that roots absorb food ; but 
only by their young and newly formed extremities, called Spnngioles. 

33. Hence the preservation of the spongioles in an uninjured state is 
essential to the removal of a plant from one place to another. 

34. A Spongiole consists of very young vascular tissue (12) surrounded 
by very young cellular substance (5). 

35. It is therefore one of the most delicate parts of plants, and the most 
easily injured. 

36. Hence whatever is known to produce any specific deleterious action 
upon leaves or stems, such as certain gases (298) and mineral or vegetable 
poisons, will produce a much more fatal effect upon the spongioles. 

37. These organs have no power of selecting their food, but will absorb 
whatever the earth or air may contain, which is sufficiently fluid to pass 
through the sides of their tissue. 

38. So that if the spongioles are developed in a medium which is of an 
unsuitable nature, as they will still continue to absorb, they cannot fail to 
introduce matter which wiU prove either injurious or fatal to life, accord- 
ing to its intensity. 

39. This may often explain why trees suddenly become unhealthy, with- 
out any external apparent cause. 

40. Plants have the power of replacing spongioles by the formation of 
new ones ; so that an individual is not destroyed by their loss, 

41. But this power depends upon the co-operation of the atmosphere, 
and upon the special vital powers of the species. 

42. If the atmosphere is so humid as to hinder evaporation, spongioles 
will have time to form anew ; but if the atmosphere is dry, the loss by 
evaporation will be so much greater than can be supplied by tlie injured 
roots, that the whole system will be emptied of fluid before the new spon- 
gioles can form. 

43. This is the key to Transplantation (XV.) 

44. As roots are destitute of leaf-buds (IV.), and as leaf-buds are essen- 
tial to the multiplication of an individual (108), it should follow that roots 
can never be employed for the purpose of multiplication. 

45. Nevertheless, roots when woody have, occasionally, the power of 
generating adventitious leaf-buds (IV.) ; and when this is the case, they 
may be employed for the purpose of multiplication ; as those of Cydonia 
Japonica, &s. 

46. The cause of this power existing in some species, and not in otli^rs, 
is unknown. 

47. It is therefore a power that can never be calculated upon, and whose 
existence is only to be discovered by accident. 

48. Although roots are generated under ground, and sometimes at con- 
Biderable depths, yet access to a certain quantity of atmospheric air appears 
indispensable to the healthy execution of their functions. This is con-. 
stantly exemplified in plants growing in the earth at the back of an ill- 
ventilated forcing-house, where the roots have no means of finding their 
way into the earth on the outside of the house, 

49. It is supposed by some that the introduction of oxygen into their 
system is as indispezxsable to them as to animals. 



STEM. 12B 

60. It seems more probable that the oxygen of the atmosphere, seizing 
upon a certain quantity of carbon, forms carbonic acid, which they absorb, 
and feed upon. 

51. It is at least certain that the exclusion of air from the roots wiH 
always induce an unhealthy condition, or even death itself. This may be 
one of the reasons why stiff tenacious soils are seldom suited to the pur- 
poses of the cultivator, until their adhesiveness has been destoyed by the 
addition of other matter. 

52. Spongioles secrete excrementitious matter, which is unsuitable to the 
same species afterward as food ; for poisonous substances are as fatal to the 
species that secrete them as to any other species. 

53. But to the other species the excrementitious matter is either not un- 
suitable, or not deleterious. 

54. Hence, soil may be rendered impure (or, as we inaccurately say, 
worn out) for one species, which will not be impure for others. 

65. This is the true key of the theory of rotation of crops. 

56. This also may serve to explain in part why light soQ is indispensa- 
ble to many plants, and heavy or tenacious soil suitable to so few ; for in 
the former case the spongioles will meet with little resistance to their elong- 
ation, and will consequently be continually leaving the place where their 
excrementitious matter is deposited ; while in the latter case, the reverse 
will occur. 

III. Stem. 

57. The Stem is that part of a plant which is developed above ground, 
and which took an upward direction at the period of germination. 

58. It consists of a woody axis, covered by bark having stomata C131J 
on its surface, bearing leaves with leaf-buds, in their exillae, and producing 
flowers and fruit. 

59- The points where leaves are borne are called Nodi,- the spaces be- 
tween the leaves, are Internodia. 

60. The more erect a stem grows, the more vigorous it is ; and the more 
it deviates from this direction to a horizontal or pendulous position, the 
less is it vigorous. 

61. Some stems are developed under ground, such as the Tubers of the 
Potato and the Cormus of the Crocus ; but they are known from roots by 
the presence of leaves, and regular leaf-buds, upon their surface. 

62. Stems increase in diameter in two ways. 

63- Either by the addition of new matter to the outside of the wood 
and the inside of the bark ; when they are Exogenous ,- ex. Oak. 

64. Or by the addition of new matter to their inside ; when they are 
Endogenous,- ex. Cane. 

65. In Exogenous stems, the central portion, which is harder and darker 
than that at the circumference, is called Heart Wood,- while the exterior, 
which is softer and lighter, is called Albemum, or Sap Wood. 

66. The inside of the bark of such stems has also the technical name of 
Liber. 

67. The heart wood was, when young, Albemum, and afterward 
changed its nature by becoming the receptacle of certain secretions peculiar 
to the species. 



124 LEAF-BTOS. 

68. Hence the greater durability of heart wood than of sap wood- 
While the latter is newly formed empty tissue, almost as perishable as bark, 
itself, the former is protected against destruction by the introduction of 
secretions that become solid matter, which is often insoluble in water, and 
never permeable to air. 

69. The secretions by which heart wood is solidified are prepared in the 
leaves, whence they are sent downward through the bark, and from the 
bark communicated to the central part of the stem. 

70. The channels through which this communication takes place are 
called Medullary Rays, or Silver Grain. 

71. Medullary rays are plates of cellular tissue, in a verj' compressed 
state, passing from the pith into the bark. 

72. The wood itself is composed of tubes consisting of woody fibre and 
vascular tissue, imbedded longitudinally in cellular substance. 

73. This cellular substance only developes horizontallj' ; and it is to it 
that the peculiar character of different kinds of wood is chiefly due. 

74. for this reason the wood of the stock of a gi'afted plant will never 
become like that of its scion, although, as will be hereafter seen (IV.), the 
woody matter of the stock must all originate in the scion. 

75. The stem of an exogenous plant may therefore be compared to a 
piece of linen, of which the weft is composed of cellular tissue, and the 
warp of fibrous and vascular tissue. 

76. In the spring and autumn a viscid substance is secreted between the 
wood and the liber, called the Cambium. 

77. This cambium appears to be the matter out of which the cellular 
horizontal substance of the stem is organized. 

78. In Endogenous stems the portion at the circumference is harder than 
that in the centre ; and there is no separable bark. 

79. Their stems consist of bundles of woody matter, imbedded in cel- 
lular tissue, and composed of vascular tissue surrounded by woody fibre. 

80. The stem is not only the depository of the peculiar secretions of 
species, (67), but is also the medium through which the sap flows in its 
passage from the roots into the leaves. 

81. In exogenous stems (63) it certainly rises through the alburnum, 
and descends through the bark. 

82. In endogenous stems (64) it probably rises through the bundles of 
wood, and descends through the cellular substance ; but this is uncertain. 

83. Stems have the power of propagating an individual only by means 
of their Leaf-buds. If destitute of leaf-buds, they have no power of 
multiplication, except fortuitously. 

IV. Leap-buds. 

84. Leaf-buds are rudiments of branches, enclosed within scales, which 
are imperfectly formed leaves. 

85. All the leaf-buds upon the same branch are constitutionally and ana- 
tomically the same. 

86. They are of two kinds ; namely, regular or normal, and adventi' 
tinus or latent (119). 

87. Regular leaf-buds are formed at the axills of leaves. 



LEAP-BUDS. 125 

88. They are organs capable of propagating the individual from which 
they originate. 

89. They are at first nourished by the fluid lying in the pith, but finally 
establish for themselves a communication with the soil by the woody mat- 
ter which they send downward. 

90. Their force of developement will be in proportion to their nourish- 
ment; and, consequently, when it is wished to procure a young shoot of 
unusual vigour, all other shoots in the vicinity are prevented growing, .'jo 
as to accumulate for one shoot only all the food that would otherwise have 
been consumed by several. 

91. Cutting back to a few eyes is an operation in pruning to produce the 
same effect, by directing the sap, as it ascends, into two or three buds only, 
instead of allowing it to expend itself upon all the others which are cut 
away. 

92. When le;if-buds grow, they develope in three directions ; the one 
horizontal, the other upward, and the third downward. 

93. The horizontal developement is confined to the cellular system of the 
bark, pith, and medullary rays. 

94. The upward and downward developements are confined to the woody 
fibre and vascular tissue. 

95. In this respect they resemble seed ; from which they differ physio- 
logically in propagating the individual, while seed can only propagate the 
.species. 

96. When they disarticulate from the stem that bears them, they are 
called Bulbs. 

97. In some plants, a bud, when separated from its stem, will grow and 
form a new plant if placed in circumstances favourable to the preservation 
of its vital powers. 

98. But this property seems confined to plants having a firm, woody, 
perennial stem. 

99. Such buds, when detached from their parent stem, send roots down- 
ward and a stem upward. 

100. But if the buds are not separated from the plant to which thpy 
belong, the matter they send downward becomes wood and liber (66), aud 
the stems they send upward become branches. Hence it is said that wood 
and liber are formed by the roots of leaf-buds. 

101. If no leaf-buds are called into action, there will be no addition of 
wood ; and, consequently, the destruction or absence of leaf-buds is accom- 
panied by the absence of wood ; as is proved by a shoot, the upper buds 
of which are destroyed and the lower allowed to develope. The lower 
part of the shoot will increase in diameter ; the upper will remain of its 
original dimensions. 

102. The quantity of wood, therefore, depends upon the quantity of 
leaf-buds that develope. 

103. It is of the greatest importance to bear this in mind in pruning 
timber trees : for excessive pruning must necessarily be injurious to the 
quantity of produce. 

104. If a cutting with a leaf-bud on it be placed in circum-stances fitted 
to the developement of the latter, it will grow and become a new plant. 

105. If this happens when the cutting is inserted in the earth, Vhe new 
plant is said by gardeners to be up'> ' Us own bottom, 

11* 



126 LEAP'BUDS. 

106. But if it happens when the cutting is applied to the dissevered end 
of another individual, called a stock, the roots are insinuated into the tissue 
of the stock, and a plant is said to be grafted, the cutting being called a 
scion. 

107. There is, therefore, little difference between cuttings and scions, 
except that the former root into the earth, the latter into another plant. 

lOS. Bu:. if a cutting of the same plant vvitlioul a leaf-bud upon it be 
placed in the same rircumstnnces, it will not giow, but will die. 

109. Unless its vital powers are sutficient to enable it to develope an 
adventitious leaf-bud (119). 

110. A leaf- bud separated from the stem will also become a new indi- 
vidual, if its vital energy is sufficiently powerful. 

111. And this, whether it is planted in earth, into which it roots like a 
cutting, or in a new individual, to which it adheres and grows like a scion. 
In the former case it is called an eye, in the latter a bud. 

112. Every leaf-bud has, therefore, its own distinct system of life and 
of growth. 

113. And as all the leaf-buds of an individual are exactly alike, it follows 
that a plant is a collection of a great number of distinct identical systems 
of life, and, consequently, a compound individual. 

114. Regular leaf-buds being generated in the exillse of the leaves, it is 
there that they are always to be sought. 

115. And if they cannot be discovered by ocular inspection, it may 
nevertheless be always inferred with confidence that they exist in such 
situations, and may possibly be called from their dormant state into life. 

T 1 6. Hence, wherever the scar of a leaf, or the remains of a leaf, can 
be discovered, there it is to be understood that the rudiments exist of a 
system of life which may be, by favourable circumstances, called into 
action. 

117. Hence, all parts upon which leaves have ever grown may be made 
use of for purposes of propagation. 

118. From these considerations it appears that the most direct analogy 
between the Animal and Vegetable kingdoms is with the Polypes of the 
former. 

119. Adventitious leaf-buds are in all respects like regular leaf-buds, 
except that they are not formed at the exillae of leaves, but develope 
occasionally from all and any part of a plant. 

120. They are occasionally produced by roots, by solid wood, or even by 
leaves and flowers. 

121. Hence roots, solid wood, or even leaves and flowers, may be used 
as means of propagation. 

122. But as the developement of adventitious buds is extremely uncer- 
tain, such means of propagation can never be calculated on, and form no 
part of the science of cultivation. 

123. The cause of the formation of adventitious leaf-buds is unknown. 

124. From certain experiments it appears that they may be generated by 
sap in a state of great accumulation and activity. 

125. Consequently, whatever tends to the accumulation of sap in an 
active state may be expected to be conducive to the formation of adventi- 
tious leaf-buds. 



LEAVES. 121 

V. Leaves. 

126. Leaves are expansions of bark, traversed hy veins. 

127. The veins consist of spiral vessels enclosed in woody fibre ; they 
originate in the medullary sheath and liber ; and they are connected by 
loose Parenchyma [7), which is full of cavities containing air. 

128. This parenchyma consists of two layers, of which the upper is com- 
posed of cellules perpendicular to the cuticle, and the lower of cellules 
parallel with the cuticle. 

129. These ceUules are arranged so as to leave numerous open passages 
among them for the circulation of air in the inside of a leaf. Parenchyma 
of this nature is called cavernous. 

130. Cuticle is formed of one or more layers of depressed cellular tissue, 
which is generally hardened, and always dry and filled with air. 

131. Between many of the cells of the cuticle are placed appertures 
called stomata, which have the power of opening and closing as circum- 
stances may require. 

132. It is by means of this apparatus that leaves elaborate the sap which 
they absorb from the albernum, converting it into the secretions peculiai- to 
the species. 

133. Their cavernous structure (129) enables them to expose the grest- 
est possible surface of their parenchyma to the action of the atmosphere. 

134. Their cuticle is a non-conducting ^kin, which protects them from 
great variations in temperature, and through which gaseous matter will 
pass readily. 

135. Their stomata are pores that are chiefly intended to facilitate evap- 
oration ; for which they are well adapted by a power they possess of open- 
ing or closing as circumstances may require. 

136. They are also intended for facilitating the rapid emission of air, 
when it is necessary that such a function should be performed. 

137. The functions of stomata being of such vital importance, it is 
always advisable to examine them microscopically in cases where don' ts 
are entertained of the state of the atmosphere which a particular species 
may require. 

138. Leaves growing in air are covered with a cuticle. 

139. Leaves growing under water have no cuticle. 

140. All the secretions of plants being formed in the leaves, or at least 
the greater part, it follows that secretions cannot take place if leaves are 
destroyed. 

141. And as this secreting property depends upon specific vital powers 
connected with the decomposition of carbonic acid, and called into action 
only when the leaves are freely exposed to light and air (279), it also fol- 
lows that the quantity of secretion will be in direct proportion to the 
quantity of leaves, and to their free exposure to light and air. 

142. The usual position of leaves is spiral, at regularly increasing or 
diminishing distances ; they are then said to be alternate. 

143. But if the space, or the axis, that separates two leaves, is reduced 
to nothing at alternate intervals, they become opposite. 

144. And if the spaces that separate several leaves be reduced to nothing, 
they become verticillate. 



128 f LOWERS. 

1 45. Opposite ^nd verticillate leaves, therefore, differ from alternate leaVflB 
only in the spaces that separate them being reduced to nothing. 

VI. Flowers. 

146. Flowers consist of two principal parts, namely. Floral Envelopes 
{U9), and Sexes (VII.) 

147. Of these, the former constitute what is popularly considered the 
flower ; although the latter are the only parts that are absolutely essential 
to it. 

148. However different they may be in appearance from leaves, they are 
all formed of those organs in a more or less modified state, and altered in 
greater or less degree by mutual adhesion. 

149. The floral envelopes consist of two or more whorls of transformed 
leaves ; of which part is calyx, its leaves being called sepals, and part 
corolla, its leaves being called petals. 

150. The sexes are also transformed leaves (1S7). 

151. The calyx is always the outermost, the carolla is always the innei* 
most whorls ; and if there is but one floral envelope, that one is calyx. 

152. Usually the calyx is green, and the corolla coloured and more 
highly developed : but the reverse is frequently the case, as in Fuchsia, 
Ribes sanguineum, &c. 

153. A flower being, then, an axis surrounded by leaves, it is in reality 
a stunted branch ; that is, one the growth of which is checked, and its 
power of elongation destroyed. 

154. That flowers are stunted branches is proved, first, by all their parts, 
especially the most external, occasionally reverting to the state of ordinary 
leaves ; secondly, by their parts being often transformed into each other ; 
and, thirdly, by the whorls of flower-buds being dislocated and actually 
converted into branches whenever any thing occurs to stimulate them 
excessively. 

155. Their most essential distinctive character consists in the buds at 
the exillae of their leaves being usually dormant, while those in the exillffl 
of ordinary leaves are usually active. 

156. For this reason-, while leaf-buds can be used for the purpose of pro- 
pagation, flower-buds cannot usually be so employed. 

157. Being stunted branches, their position on the stem is the same as 
that of developed branches. 

158. And as there is in all plants a very great difference in the develope- 
ment of leaf-buds, some growing readily into branches, others only unfold- 
ing their leaves without elongating, and many remaining altogether dor- 
mant, it follows that floWer-buds may form upon plants of whatever ase 
and in whatever state. 

159. But to produce a general formation of flower-buds it is necessary 
that there should be some general predisposing constitutional cause, inde- 
pendent of accidental circumstances. 

160. This predisposing cause is the accumulation of sap and of secreted 
matter. 

161. Therefore, whatever tends to retard the free flow of sap, and causes 
it to accumulate, will cause the produc:ion of flower-buds or fertility. 



FLO'^VEES. 129 

162. And, on the other hand, whatever tends to produce excessive 
-vigour, causes the dispersion of sap, or prevents its elaboration, and causes 
sterility. 

163. Transplantation with a partial destruction of roots, age, or high 
temperature accompanied by a dry atmosphere, training obliquely or in 
an inverted direction, a constant destruction of the extremities of young 
growing branches, will all cause an accumulation of sap, and secretions ; 
and, consequently, all such circumstances are favourable to the production 
of flower-buds. 

164. But a richly manured soil, high temperature, with great atmospheric 
humidity, or an uninterrupted flow of sap, are all causes of excessive vig- 
our, and are consequently unfavourable to the production of flower-buds. 

165. There is a tendency in many flowers to enlarge, to alter their 
colours, or to change their appearance by transformation and multiplication 
of their parts, whenever they have been raised from seed for several gene- 
rations, or domesticated. 

166^ The causes of this tendency are probably various, but being entirely 
unknown, no certain rules for the production of varieties in flowers can be 
laid down, except by the aid of hybridizing (201). 

167. It, often happens that a single branch produces flowers diflferent 
from those produced on other branches. This is technically called a sport, 

16S. As every bud on that branch has the same specific vital principle 
(1131, a bud taken from such a branch will produce an individual, the 
whole of whose branches will retain the character of the sport. 

169. Consequently, by buds an accidental variety may be made perma- 
nent, if the plant that sports be of a firm woody nature (98). 

170. As flowers feed upon the prepared sap in their vicinity, the greater 
the abundance of this prepared food, the more perfect will be their devel- 
opement. 

171. Or the fewer the flowers on a given branch, the more food they will 
severally have to nourish them, and the more perfect will they be. 

172. The beauty of flowers will therefore be increased either by an abun- 
dant supply of food, or by a diminution of their numbers (thinning), or by 
both. The business of the pruner is to cause these by his operation. 

173. The beauty of flowers depends upon their free exposure to light 
and air, because it consists in the richness of their colours, and their colours 
are only formed by the action of these two agents (281). 

174. Hence flowers produced in dark or shaded confined situations are 
either imperfect, or destitute of their habitual size and beauty. 

175. Double flowers are those in which the stamens are transformed 
into petals; or in which the latter, or the sepals, are multiplied. They 
should not be confounded with Proliferous (183), and Discoid Compound 
Flowers (IS4). 

176. Although no certain rules for the production of double flowers can 
be laid down, yet it is probable that those flowers have the greatest tendency 
to become double, in which the sexes are habitually multiplied. 

177. In Icosandrous and Polyandrous plants either the stamens or the 
pistilla are always very numerous when the flowers are in a natural state ; 
and it is chiefly in such plants that double flowers occur, when they become 
transformed. 



130 SEXES. 

178. It is, therefore, in such plants that double flowers are to be princi- 
pally expected. 

179. In proportion as the sexes of flowers habitually become few in 
number, do the instances of double flowers become rare. 

180. Double flowers are therefore least to be expected in plants with 
fewest stamens. 

181. Whenever the component parts of a flower adhere by their edges, 
as in monophyllous calyxes, monopetalous corollas, and monadelphous, or 
di-, or poly-adelphous stamens, the tendency to an unnatural multiplication 
of parts seem checked. 

182 Therefore, in such cases, double flowers are little to be expected, 
they are, in fact, very rare. 

183. Proliferous flowers are those in which parts that usually have all 
their axillary buds dormant, accidentally develope such buds ; as in the Hen 
and Chickens Daisy, in which the bractese of the involucrum form other 
Daisy-heads in their axillae ; or, as in certain Roses, in which the carpellary 
leaves develope leaf-buds in their axillse, so that the flow&r becomes a 
branch, the lower leaves of which are coloured and transformed, and the 
upper green, and in their ordinary state. 

184. Discoid compound flowers are those in which the central florets of 
a flower-head acquire carollas, like those of the circumference, as in the 
Dahlia ; the cultivated variety of which should be called discoid, and not 
double. 

185. These last two are so essentially different from double flowers, that 
whatever laws may be supposed to govern the production or amelioration 
of double flowers, can have no relation to proliferous or discoid compound 
flowers. 

VII. Sexes. 

186. The sexes consist of two or more whorls of transformed leaves, of 
which the outer are called Stamens (188), and the inner Pistillum (191). 

187. They are known to be modifications of leaves, because they very 
frequently are transformed into petals which are demonstrably such (149) ; 
and because they occasionally revert to the state of leaves. 

188. The stamens bear at their apex an organ, called the anther, which 
contains a powder called pollen. 

189. When the anther is full grown it opens and emits the pollen, either 
dispersing it in the air m consequence of the elasticity with which it opens ; 
or depositing it upon the stigmata (191) ; or exposing it to the action of 
wind, or such other disturbing causes as may liberate it from its case. 

190. The pollen consists of exceedingly minute hollow balls, or cases, 
containing myriads of moving particles, which are the fertilizing principle 
of the stamens. 

191. The pistillum has at its base one or more cavities or cells, in which 
bodies called ovula are placed ; and at its apex one or more secreting sur- 
faces called stigmata. 

192. The ovula are the rudiments of seed. 

103. If the fertilizing powder of the pollen comes in contact with the 
stigmata, the ovula in the cells of the pistillum are vivified, and become seed. 



FRUIT. 131 

194. But if this contact does not take place, the ovula cannot possibly 
be vivified, but shrivel up and perish. 

193. The phenomenon of vivification takes place in consequence of the 
descent of a portion of the moving particles (190) uf the pollen into the 
ovula, where such particles form the commencement of future plants. 

196. In wild plants stigmata is usually acted upon only by the pollen 
of the stamens which belong to it. 

197. In this case the seed thus vivified will, when sown, produce new 
individuals, differing very little from that by which they were them- 
selves produced. 

198. And, therefore, wild plants are for the most part multiplied from 
generation to generation without change. 

199. But it is possible to cause deviations from this law, by artificial 
means. . 

200. If the pollen of one species is placed upon the stigmata of another 
species, the ovula will be.vivified ; and what is called a hybrid plant will be 
produced, by those ovula when they shall have grown to be seed. 

201. Hybrid plants are different from both their parents, and are gene- 
rally intermediate in character between them. 

202. They have little power of perpetuating themselves by seed ; but 
they may, if woody, be perpetuated by cuttings (312), buds (354), scions 
(335), &c. 

203. Therefore, no hybrids but such as are of a woody perennial char- 
acter can be perpetuated. 

204. It usually happens that the hybrid has the constitution and general 
aspect of the polliniferous parent ; but is influenced in secondary charac- 
ters by the peculiarity of the female parent. 

205. This should always be borne in mind in procuring new hybrid plants. 

206. Really hybrid plants must not be confounded with such as are spu- 
rious, in consequence of their origin being between two varieties of the 
same species, and not two species of the same genus. 

207. Hybrid plants, although incapable of perpetuation by seed, are often 
more abundant flowerers than either parent. 

208. This is, probably, connected with constitutional debility (162). 

VIII. Fruit. 

209. Fruit, strictly speaking, is the pistillum arrived at maturity. 

210. When the calyx adheres to the pistillum, and grows with it to 
maturity, the fruit is called inferior ,- as the Apple. 

211. But when the pistillum alone ripens, there being no adhesion t«^it 
on the part of the calyx, the fruit is called superior ; as the Peach. 

212. The fruit is, therefore, in common language, the flower, or some 
part of it, arrived at its most complete state of existence ; and conse- 
quently, is itself a portion of a stunted branch (153). 

213. The nature of its connection with the stem is therefore the same 
as that of tlie brandies with each other, or of leaves with their stem. 

214. A superior fruit consisting only of one, or of a small number of 
metamorphosed leaves, it has little or no power of forming a coiiimunicar 
tion with the earth and of feeding itself, as real brandies have (89;.. 



132 FRUIT. 

215. It has also very little adhesion to its branch ; so that but slight 
causes are sufficient to detach it from the plant, especially at an early age, 
when all its parts are tender. 

216. Hence the difficuliy of causing Peaches and the like to siojie, or to 
pass over that age, in which the vascular bundles that join them to the 
branch becmne woody, and secure them to their place. 

217. For the same reason they are fed almost entirely by other parts, 
upon secreted matter which they attract to themselves, elaborate, and store 
up in the cavities of their tissue. 

218. The office of feeding such fruit is performed by young branches 
whicii transmit nutriment to it through the bark (69). 

219. But as young branches can only transmit nutriment downward, it 
follows that, unless a fruit is formed on a part of a branch below a leaf- 
bud, it must perish, 

220. Unless there is some active vegetation in the stem above the branch 
on which it grows ; when it may possibly live and feed upon secretions 
attracted by it from the main stem. 

•321. But inferior fruit, consisting at least of the calyx in addition to 
the pistillum, has a much more powerful communication with the branch ; 
each division of its calyx having at least one bundle of vascular and 
fibrous tissue, passing from it into the branch, and acting as a stay upon 
the centre to prevent its breaking off. 

222. Such fruit may be supposed much more capable of establishing a 
means of attracting .secretions from a distance ; and, consequently, is less 
liable to perish frnn want of a supply of food. 

223. It is therefore not so important that an inferior fruit should be fur- 
nished with growing branches above it. 

224. Fruit is exclusively fed by the secretions prepared for it by other 
parts ; it is therefore affected by nearly the same circumstances as rlov?ers. 

22.5. It will be large in proportion to the quantity of food the stem can 
supply to it ; and small in proportion to the inability of the stem to nourish it. 

226. For this reason, when trees are weak they should be allowed to 
bear very little, if any, fruit ; because a crop of fruit can only tend to in- 
crease their debility. 

227. And in all cases each fruit should be so far separated from all others 
as not to be robbed of its food by those in its vicinity. 

228. We fmd that nature has herself in some measure provided against 
injury to plants by excessive fecundity, in giving them a power of throw- 
ing oft' flowers, the fruit of which cannot be supported. 

229. The flavour of fruit depends upon the existence of certain secre- 
tions, especially of acid and sugar; flavour will, consequently, be regulated 
by the circumstances under which fruit is ripened. 

230. The ripening of fruit is the conversion of acid and other substances 
into sugar. 

231. As the latter substance cannot be obtained at all in the dark, is less 
abundant in fruit ripened in diffused light, and most abundant in fruit ex- 
posed to the direct rays of the sun, the conversion of matter into sugar 
occurs under the same circumstances as the decomposition of carbonic acid 
(HI and 279). 

232. Therefore, if fruit be produced in situations much exposed to the 
-sun, its sweetness will be augmented. 



SEED, 133 

233. And in proportion as it is deprived of tlie sun's direct rays, that 
quality will diminish. 

234. So that a fruit which, when exposed to the sun, is sweet, when 
grown where no direct light will reach it will be acid ; as Hears, Cherries, &c. 

235. Hence acidity may be corrected by exposure to light ; and excess- 
ive sweetness, or insipidity, by removal from light. 

236. It is the property of succulent fruits which ai-e acid when wild, to 
acquire sweetness when cultivated, losing part of their acid. 

237. This probably arises from the augmentation of the cellular tissue, 
which possibly has a greater power than woody or vascular tissue of assist- 
ing in the formation of sugar. 

238. As a certain quantity of acid is essential to render fruit agreeable 
to the palate, and as it is the property of cultivated fruits to add to their 
saccharine matter, but not to form more acid than when wild ; it follows, 
that in selecting wild fruits for domestication, those which are acid should 
be preferred, and those which are sweet or insipid rejected ; 

239. Unless recourse is had to hybridism ; when a wild insipid fruit 
may possibly be improved C204), or may be the means of improving 
something else. 

240. It is very much upon such considerations as the foregoing that the 
rules of training must depend. 

IX. Seed. 

241. The seed is the ovulum arrived at perfection. 

242. It consists of an integument enclosing an embryo, which is the 
rudiment of a future plant. 

243. The seed is nourished by the same means as the fruit ; and, like 
it, will be more or less perfectly formed, according to the abundance of its 
aiutriment. 

244. The plant developed from the embryo in the seed, will be in all 
essential particulars like its parent species, 

245. Unless its nature has been changed by hybridizing (204). 

246. But although it will certainly, under ordinary circumstances, repro- 
duce its species, it will by no means uniformly reproduce the particular 
variety by which it was borne. 

247. So that seed are not the proper means of propagating varieties. 

248. Nevertheless, in annual or biennial plants, no means can be em- 
ployed for propagating a variety, except the seed ; and yet the variety is 
preserved. 

249. This is accomplished solely by the great care of the cultivator, and 
happens thus : 

250. Although a seed will not absolutely propagate the individual, yet 
as a seed will partake more of the nature of its actual parent than of any 
thing else, its progeny may be expected, as really happens, to resemble the 
variety from which it sprung, more than any other variety of its species ; 

251. Provided its purity has not been contaminated by the intermix- 
ture of other varieties. 

252. By a careful eradication of all the varieties from the neighbourhood 
of that from which seed is to be saved ; by taking care that none but the 
most genuine forms of a variety are preserved as seed-plants ; and by com. 

12 



134 SAP. 

pelling by transplantation a plant to expend all its accumulated sap in the 
nourishment of its seed, instead of in tiie superabundant production of 
foliage, a crop of seed may be procured, tlie plants produced by which will, 
in a great measure, have the peculiar properties of the parent variety. 

253. By a series of progressive seed-savings upon the same plan, plants 
will be at length obtained, in which the habits of the individual have 
become as it were fixed, and capable of such exact reproduction by seed, as 
to form an exception to the general rule ; as in Turnips, Radishes, &c. 

254. But if the least neglect occurs in taking the necessary precautions 
(252) to ensure a uniform crop of seed, possessing the new fixed proper- 
ties, the race becomes deteriorated, in proportion tothe Vvant of care that 
has occurred, and loses its chnracters of individuality. 

255. In all varieties those seed may be expected to preserve their indi- 
vidual characters most distinctly which have been the best nourished (243) ; 
it is, consequently, those which should be selected in preference for raising 
new plants, from which seed is to be saved. 

256. When seed are first ripened, their embryo is a mass of cellular sub- 
stance, containing starch, fixed carbon, or other solid matter, in its cavities; 
and in this state it will remain until fitting circumstances occur to call it 
into active life. 

257. These fitting circumstances are, a temperature above 32° Fahrenheit, 
a moist medium, darkness, and exposure to air. 

258. It then absorbs the moisture of the medium in which it lies, inhales 
oxygen (278), and undergoes certain chemical changes ; its vital powers 
cause it to ascend by one extremity for the purpose of finding light, and 
of decomposing its carbonic acid (279), by parting with its accumulated 
oxygen, and to descend by the other extremity for the purpose of finding 
a constant supply of crude nutriment. 

259. Unless these conditions are maintained, seed cannot gerrninatej 
and, consequently, an exposure to light is fatal to their embryo, because 
(278) oxygen will not be absorbed in sufficient quantity to stimulate the 
vital powers of the embryo into action, for the purpose of parting with it 
again, by the decomposition of the carbonic acid that has been formed dur- 
ing its accumulation. 

X. Sap. 

. 260. The fluid matter which is absorbed either from the earth or from 
the air is called sap. 

261. When it first enters a plant it consists of water holding certain 
principles, especially carbonic acid, in solution. 

262. These principles chiefly consist of animal or vegetable matter in a 
state of decomposition, and are energetic in proportion to their solubility, 
or tendency to form carbonic acid by combining with the oxygen of the air. 

263. Sap soon afterward acquires the nature of mucilage or sugar, and 
subsequently becomes still farther altered by the admixture of such soluble 
matter as it receives in passing in its route through the alburnum or newly 
formed woody tissue (65). 

264. When it reaches the vicinity of the leaves it is attracted into them, 
and there, having been exposed to light and air, is converted into the secre- 
tions peculiar to the species. 



Am AND LIGHT. 135 

265 It finally, in its altered state, sinks down the bark, whence it is given 
off laterly by the medullary rays, and is distributed through the system. 

266. No solid matter whatever can be taken off by the roots ; for this 
reason, metals, which in the state of oxydes are poisonous, are perfectly 
harmless in their metallic state, as mercury ; and this is, no doubt, the 
cause why liquid manure, which contains all the soluble parts of manure 
in a fluid state, acts with so much more energy than stimulating substances 
in a solid state. 

267. The cause of the motion of the sap is the attraction of the leaf- 
buds and leaves. 

268. The leaf-buds called into growth by the combined action of the 
increasing temperature and light of spring, decompose their carbonic acid 
(279), and attract fluid from the tissue immediately below them ; the space 
so caused is filled up by fluid again attracted from below, and thus a motion 
gradually takes place in the sap from one extremity to the other. 

269. Consequently, the motion of the sap takes place first in the branches 
and last in the roots. 

270. For this reason, a branch of a plant subjected to a high tempera- 
ture in winter, will grow while its stem is exposed to a very low tempera- 
ture. 

271. But growth under such circumetances will not be long maintamed, 
unless the roots are secured from the reach of frost ; for, if frozen they 
cannot act, and will consequently be unable to replace the sap of which the 
stem is emptied by the attraction of the buds converted into branches, and 
by the perspiration of the leaves (XII.) 

272. Whatever tends to inspissate the sap, such as a dry and heated 
atmosphere, or an interruption of its rapid flow, or a great decomposition 
of carbonic acid, by full exposure to light, has tlie property of causing ex- 
cessive vigour to be diminished, and flower-buds to be produced, 

273. While, on the other hand, whatever tends to dilute the sap, such 
as a damp atmosphere, a free and uninterrupted circulation, or a great accu- 
mulation of oxygen in consequence of the imperfect decomposition of car- 
bonic acid, has the property of causing excessively rapid growth, and an 
exclusive production of leaf-buds. 

274. Inspissated or accumulated sap is, therefore, a great cause of fertility. 
276. And thin fluid, not being elaborated, is a great cause of sterility. 

276. The conversion of sap into different kinds of secretion is effected 
by the combined action of Air (XL), Light (XL), and Temperature. 

XI. Air and Light. 

277. When an embryo plant (242) is formed within its integuments, it 
is usually colourless, or nearly so ; but, as soon as it begins to grow, that 
part which approaches the light (the stem) becomes coloured, while the 
opposite extremity (the root) remains colourless. 

278. The parts exposed to the air absorb oxygen at night, absorb car- 
bonic acid and part with oxygen again in daylight ; and thus in the day- 
time purify the air, and render it fit for the respiration of man. 

279. The intensity of this latter phenomenon is in proportion to the 
intensity of solar light to which leaves are directly exposed. 

280. Its cause is the decomposition of carbonic acid, the extrication of 



136 AIR AND LIGHT, 

oxygen, and the acquisition by the plant of carbon in a solid state ; from 
which, modified by the peculiar vital actions of species, colour and secre- 
tions are supposed to result. 

2S1. For it is found that the intensity of colour, and the quantity of 
secretions, are in proportion to tlie exposure to light and air, as is shown 
by the deeper colour of the upper sides of leaves, &c. 

282. And by the fact that if plants be grown in air from which light is 
excluded, neither colour nor secretions are formed, as is exemplified in 
blanched vegetables ; which, if even naturally poisonous, may, from want 
of exposure to light, become wholesome, as Celery. 

283. When any colour appears in parts developed in the dark, it is gen- 
erally caused by the absorption of such colouring matter as pre-existed in 
the root or other body from which the blanched shoot proceeds, as in some 
kinds of Rhubarb when forced. 

284. Or by the deposition of colouring matter formed by parts developed 
in light, as in the subterranean roots of Beet, Carrots, &c. 

285. What is true of colour is also true of flavour, which equally de-- 
pends upon light for its existence ; because flavour is produced by chemi- 
cal alterations in the sap caused by exposure to light {229). 

286. The same tiling occurs in regard to nutritive matter, which in like 
manner is formed by exposure of leaves to light. Thus the Potato when 
forced in dark houses, contains no more amylaceous matter than previously 
existed in the original tuber ; but acquires it in abundance wlien placed iin 
the light, and deposites it in proportion as it is influenced by light and air. 
Thus, also, if Peaches are grown in wooden houses, at a distance from the 
light. Ihey will form so little nutritive matter as to be unable to support a 
crop of fruit, the greater part of which will fall off. And for a similar 
reason, it is only the outside shoots of standard fruit trees that bear fruit. 
Considerations of this kind form in part the basis of pruning and tTaininR. 

287. Light is the most powerful stimulus that can be employed to ex- 
cite the vital actions of plants, and its energy is in proportion to its intens- 
ity ; so that the direct rays of the sun will produce much more powerful 
effects than the diffused light of day. 

288. Hence, if buds that are very excitable are placed in a diffused light, 
their excitability will be checked. 

289. And if buds that are very torpid are exposed to direct light, they 
will be stimulated into action. 

290. So that wiiat parts of a tree shall first begin to grow in the spring 
may be determined at the will of the cultivator. 

291. This is the key to some important practices in forcing. 

292. This should also cause attention to be paid to shading buds from 
the direct rays of the sun in particular cases ; as in that of cuttings, whose 
buds, if too rapidly excited, might exhaust their only reservoir of sap, the 
stem, before new roots were formed to repair such loss. 

293. As plants derive an essential part of their food from the air (280) 
by the action of light, it follows that in glass houses those which admit 
the greatest portion of light are the best adapted for purposes of cultiva- 
tion. 

294. The proportion of opaque matter in the roof of a glass house con- 
Rtructed of wood varies from one third to one seventh ; that of an iroM, 
house does not exceed one twenty-third. 



PERSPIR/VTION. 137 

295. Therefore, iron-roofed houses are in this respect better suited for 
cultivation than wooden-roofed houses. 

296. And it has been found by experiment, that light passes more freely 
through a curvilinear than through a plane roof, and through glass forming 
an acute angle with the horizon than through perpendicular glass, it follows 
that a curvilinear roof is best, and a plane roof with glass perpendicular 
sides the worst, adapted to the purposes of the cultivator. 

297. For the same reason common green glass is less fitted for glazing 
forcing-houses than white crown glass. 

298. Poisonous gases in very minute quantities act upon vegetation with 
great energy. A ten-thousandth part of sulphurous acid gas is quickly fatal 
to the life of plants ; and hence the danger of flues heated by coal fires, 
and the impossibility of making many species grow in the vicinity of 
houses heated by coal fires, or in large towns. 

XII. Perspiration. 

299. It is not, however, exclusively by the action of light and air that 
the nature of sap is altered. Evaporation is constantly going on during the 
growth of a plant, and sometimes is so copious, that an individual will 
perspire its own weight of water in the course of twenty-four hours. 

300. The loss thus occasioned by the leaves is supplied by crude fluid, 
absorbed by the roots, and conveyed up the stem with great rapidity. 

301. The consequence of such copious perspiration is the separation 
and solidification of the carbonized matter that is produced for the peculiar 
secretions of a species. 

302. For the maintenance of a plant in health, it is indispensable that 
Ihe supply of fluid by the roots should be continual and uninterrupted. 

303. If any thing causes perspiration to take place faster than it can be 
counteracted by the absorption of fluid from the earth, plants will be dried 
up and perish. 

304. Such causes are, destruction of spongioles, an insufl^cient quantity 
of fluid in the soil, an exposure of the spongioles to occasional dryness, 
and a dry atmosphere. ^ji 

305. The most ready means of counteracting the evil consequences of 
an imperfect action of the roots is by preventing or diminishing evapora- 
tion. 

306. This is to be eflTected by rendering the atmosphere extremely humid. 

307. Thus, in curvilinear iron hot-houses, in which the atmosphere be- 
comes so dry in consequence of the heat, that plants perish, it is necessary 
that (he air should be rendered extremely humid, by throwing water upon 
pavement, or by introducing steam. 

308. And in transplantation in dry v/eather, evergreens, or plants in leaf, 
often die, because the spongioles are destroyed, or so far injured in the 
operation as to be unable to act, while the leaves never cease to perspire. 

309. The greater certainty of transplanting plants that have been grow- 
ing in pots, is from this latter circumstance intelligible. 

310. While the utility of putting cuttings or newly transplanted seed- 
lings into a shady damp atmosphere, is explained by the necessity of hin^ 
dering evaporation. 



138 CUTTINGS. 

XIII. Cuttings. 

311. When a separate portion of a plant is caused to produce new roots 
and branches, and to increase an individual, it is a cutting. 

312. Cuttings are of two sorts: cuttings properly so called, and eyes 
(319). 

313. A cutting consists of an internodia, or a part of one, with its 
nodi ^592 and leaf-bud. 

314. When the internodia is plunged in the earth it attracts fluid from 
the soil, and nourishes the bud until it can feed itself. 

315. The bud, feeding at first upon the matter in the internodia, grad- 
ually enlongates upward into a branch, and sends organized matter down- 
ward, which becomes roots. 

316. As soon as it has established a communication with the soil, it be- 
comes a new individual, exactly like that from which it was taken. 

317. As it is the action of the leaf-buds that causes growth in a cutting, 
it follows that no cutting without a leaf-bud will grow ; 

318. Unless the cutting has great vitality and power of forming adven- 
titous leaf-buds (119), which sometimes happens. 

319. An eye is a leaf- bud without an internodia. 

320. It only differs from a cutting in having no reservoir of food on 
which to exist, and in emitting its roots immediately from the base of the 
leaf-bud into the soil. 

321. As cuttings will very often, if not always, develope leaves before 
any powerful connection is formed between them and the soil, they are 
peculiarly liable to suffer from perspiration. 

322. Hence the importance of maintaining their atmosphere in an uni- 
form state of humidity, as is effected by putting bell or other glasses over 
them. 

323. In this case, however, it is necessary that if air-tight covers are 
employed, such as bell-glasses, they should be from time to time removed 
and replaced, for the sake of getting rid of excessive humidity. 

324. Layers differ from cuttings in nothing except that they strike root 
into the soil while yet adhering to the parent plant. 

325. Whatever is true of cuttings is true of layers, except that the latter 
are not liable to suffer by evaporation, because of their communication with 
the parent plant. 

326. As cuttings strike roots into the earth by the action of leaves or leaf- 
buds, it might be supposed that they will strike most readily when the 
leaves or leaf-buds are in their greatest vigour. 

327. Nevertheless, this power is controlled so much by the peculiar vital 
powers of different species, and by secondary considerations, that it is im- 
possible to say that this is an absolute rule. 

328. Thus Dahlias and other herbaceous plants will strike root freely 
when cuttings are very young ; and Heaths, Azaleas, and other hard-wooded 
plants, only when the wood has just begun to harden. 

329. The former is, probably, owing to some specific vital excitability, 
the force of which we cannot appreciate ; the latter either to a kind of 
torpor, which seems to seize such plants when the tissue is once emptied 
of fluid, or to a natural slowness to send downward woody matter, whether 
for wood or not, which is the real cause of their wood being harder. 

12* 



SCIONS. 139 

330. If ripened cuttings are upon the whole the most fitted for multi- 
plication, it is because their tissue is less absorbent than when younger, and 
that they are less likely to sufler either from repletion or evaporation. 

331. For, to gorge tissue with food, before leaves are in action to decom- 
pose and assimilate it, is as prejudicial as to empty tissue by the action of 
leaves, before spongioles are prepared to replenish it. 

332. For this reason, pure silex, in which no stimulating substances are 
contained (silver sand), is the best adapted for promoting the rooting of 
cuttings that strike with difficulty. 

333. And for the same reason, cuttings with what gardeners call a heel 
to them, or a piece of the older wood, strike root more readily than such 
as are not so protected. The greater age of the tissue of the heel renders 
it less absorbent than tissue that is altogether newly formed. 

334. It is to avoid the bad effect of evaporation that leaves are usually 
for the most part removed from a cutting, when it is first prepared. 

XIV. Scions. 

335. A scion is a cutting (311) which is caused to grow upon another 
plant, and not in the earth. 

336. Scions are of two sorts : scions properly so called, and buds (354). 

337. Whatever is true of cuttings is true also of scions, all circum- 
stances being equal. 

33S. When a scion is adapted to another plant, it attracts fluid from it 
for the nourishment of its leaf-buds until they can feed themselves. 

339. Its leaf-buds thus fed, gradually grow upward into branches, and 
send woody matter downward, which is analagous to roots. 

340. At the same time, the cellular substance of the scion and its stoclt 
adheres (19), so as to form a complete organic union. 

341. The woody matter descending from the bud passes through the 
cellular substance into the stock, where it occupies the same situation as 
would have been occupied by woody matter supplied by buds belonging to 
the stock itself. 

342. Once united,' the scion covers the wood of the stock with new 
wood, and causes the production of new roots. 

343. But the character of the woody matter sent down by the scion 
over the wood of the stock being determined by the cellular substance, 
which has exclusively a horizontal developement (73), it follows that the 
wood of the stock will always remain apparently the same, although it is 
furnished by the scion. 

344. Some scions will grow upon a stock without being able to trans- 
mit any woody matter into it ; as some Cacti. 

345. W^hen this happens, the adhesion of the two takes place by the 
cellular substance only, and the union is so imperfect that a slight degree 
of violence suffices to dissever them. 

346. And in such cases the buds are fed by their woody matter, which 
absorbs the ascending sap from the stock at the point where the adhesion 
has occurred ; and the latter, never augmenting in diameter, is finally over- 
grown by the scion. 

347. When, in such instances, the communication between the stock 



140 TRANSPLANTATION. 

and the scion is so mucli interrupted that the sap can no longer ascend 
with sufficient rapidity into the branches, the latter die ; as in many Peaches. 

348. This incomplete union between the scion and its stock is owing to 
some constitutional or organic difference in the two. 

349. Therefore, care should be tai<en that when plants are grafted on one 
another, their constitution should be as nearly as possible identical. 

350. As adhesion of only an imperfect nature takes place when the scion 
and stock are, to a certain degree, dissimilar in constitution, so will no ad- 
hesion whatever occur when their constitutional dillerence is-very decided. 

351. Hence it is only species very nearly allied in nature that can be 
grafted on each other. 

352. As only similar tissues will unite (19), it is necessary, in applying 
a scion to the stock, that similar parts should be carefully adapted to each 
other ; as bark to bark, cambium to cambium, alburnum to alburnum. 

353. The second is more especially requisite, because it is through the 
cambium that the woody matter sent downward by the buds must pass ; 
and also because cambium itself, being organizing matter in an incipient 
state, will more readily form an adhesion than any other part. 

354. The same principles apply to buds, which are to scions precisely 
what eyes (319) are to cuttings. 

355. Inarching is the same with reference to grafting, that layering (324) 
is with reference to striking by cuttings. 

356. It serves to maintain the vitality of a scion until it can form an 
adhesion with its stock ; and must be considered the most certain mode 
of grafting. 

357. It is probable that every species of flowering plant, without excep- 
tioa, may be multiplied by grafting. 

35S. Nevertheless, there are many species and even tribes that never 
have been grafted. 

359. It has been found that in the Vine and the Walnut this difficulty 
can be overcome by attention to their peculiar constitutions ; and it is pro- 
bable that the same attention will remove supposed difficulties in the case 
of other species. 

XV. Transplantation. 

360. Transplantation consists in removing a plant from the soil in which 
it is growing to some other soil. 

361. If in the operation the plant is torpid, and its spongioles uninjured, 
the removal will not be productive of any interruption to the previous 
rate of growth. 

362. And if it is growing, or evergreen, and the spongioles are uninjured, 
the removal will produce no farther injury than may arise from the tem- 
porary suspension of the action of the spongioles, and the non-cessation 
of perspiration during the operation. 

363. So that transplantations may take place at all seasons of the year, 
»nd under all circumstances, provided the spongioles are uninjured. 

364. This applies to the largest trees as well as to the smallest herbs. 
865. But as it is impossible to take plants out of the earth without 

destroying or injuring the spongioles. the evil consequence of such acci- 
dents must be remedied by the hiiiderance of evaporation. 



MONTHLY f^-lLENDAR. M"! 

366. Transplantation should therefore take place only when plants are 
torpid, and when their respiratory organs (leaves) are absent ; or, if they 
never lose those organs, as evergreens, only at seasons when the atmosptiere 
is periodically charged with humidity for some considerable time. 

367. Old trees, in which the roots are much injured, form new ones so 
slowly, that they are very liable to be exhausted of sap by the absorption 
of their very numerous young buds before new spongioles can be formed. 

368. The amputation of all their upper extremities is the most probable 
prevention of death ; but in most cases injury of their roots is without a 
remedy. 

369. Plants in pots being so circumstanced that the spongioles are pro- 
tected from injury, can, however, be transplanted at all seasons without 
any dangerous consequences. 



INTRODUCTION. 



TO THE 



MONTHLY CALENDAR 



The object of the following Calendar is to furnish, in a con- 
densed foiTn, monthly directions for the culture of some plants 
not previously mentioned in this work; and also to direct the 
reader's attention to the regular management of such plants 
as have been heretofore treated of. In pursuit of the latter 
object, references vdll be made to former pages, so as to 
exhibit, at one view, the business of the garden in each 
month of the year. The figures indicate the pages in which 
farther directions may be found relative to the operations 
referred to. 



142 MONTHLY CALENDAR, 

JANUARY. 

Winter's white sheet now covers earth's cold bed ; 
Pride of our home, the lovely Flovpers, are dead ; 
Some early venturers would the aspect cheer, 
The first-born children of the dawning year. 

Having shown, in page 100, that heat, air, and water are 
the food of plants, and necessary to the preservation of their 
health and life, if given in due proportion according to cir- 
cumstances, I would, at this season of the year, especially, 
salute the gardener with " Be ye temperate in all things." 

Temperance in the use of water is of the utmost import- 
ance in the winter season, for several reasons which may be 
given. In the first place, water will attract frost, and, there- 
fore, should be used very sparingly in frosty weather ; 
another consideration is, that in the absence of heat and air, 
plants cannot absorb much moisture, and, consequently, must 
become injured from excessive watering; and it may be 
observed farther, that it is not prudent to keep plants in an 
extremely vigorous state, until the season arrives when the 
external air is soft and salubrious ; they can then have a due 
proportion of heat, air, and moisture at the same time. 

Perhaps the next important point to be attended to at this 
time is, to see that the green-house, or room, in which plants 
are intended to be preserved, is calculated for the purpose. 
The room should be light and airy, and yet so secure as to 
prevent the intrusion of external cold air, or the departure 
of warm air in the night season. 

A Fahrenheit thermometer is indispensable in a green- 
house, or room, where plants are kept, and the temperature 
should be always kept up as nearly as possible to forty degrees, 
in the absence of the sun. If the gardener retire to rest in 
this variable climate, leaving the mercury much below forty, 
he may expect to find his plants frozen in the morning. 

A good brick flue is better calculated for heating a small 
green-house than any other contrivance ; because, after a 
sufficient fire has been made to heat the bricks thoroughly. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



143 



they will retain the heat through a winter night, whereas an 
iron stove with its metal pipes will cool as the fire gets low, 
and expose the plants to cold toward morning, which is the 
time they most need protection. The heat from iron is, 
moreover, too dry and parching, while an evaporation or 
salubrious steam may be raised from bricks, by sprinkling 
the flue occasionally, which would operate on plants similar 
to healthful dew-drops. 

At this season of the year, sitting-rooms, or parlours, 
are generally heated in the daytime to full twenty degrees 
higher than what is necessary for the preservation of plants ; 
consequently, as the heat decreases in the night season, 
plants often get injured, unless a fire is kept up. Air must 
be admitted to plants kept in this way, at all opportunities ; 
and more water will be necessary for such plants, than those 
kept in a green-house would require. For the management 
of bulbous roots in pots or glasses, the reader is referred to 
page 94. 



FEBRUARY. 

Like shivering orphans on the wide world cast, 
They feel the rigour of the Northern blast, 
Whilst Fortune's Favourites claim the florist's care, 
And all the comforts of the green-house share. 

Having in the previous month discussed some important 
poitits relative to the general care of plants, I now proceed 
to notice a few of those kinds that require attention at this 
particular season : 

Camellias, or Japan Roses. There are numerous varieties 
of this valuable class of plants, exhibiting every shade of 
colour, from deep crimson to the purest white ; in some 
imperceptibly blended, in others strikingly contrasted. They 
are unrivalled objects of beauty from October to May, being 
set in a fine glossy foliage. 



141 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

\ Double Camellias are generally propagated on stocks of 
the single, which ai'e procur-ed by planting cuttings of the 
young shoots in light mould under bell glasses ; on these, 
when grown to a sufficient size, are inarched the finer kinds 
of double. Sometimes these latter are also struck by cut- 
tings ; but as their pi'ogress by such method is generally 
slow and uncertain, it is seldom resorted to. These valuable 
plants are too often injured by aixiateurs, from misapplied 
care bestowed upon them, so that their whole compensation 
and enjoyment is reduced to the mere possession of a hand- 
some green shrub. Destined, from the extreme beauty and 
unrivalled delicacy of their flowers, to become the chief 
pride and ornament of the green-house and drawing-room 
in the winter season. Camellias should have a fair chance 
given them to exhibit their fine bloom in perfection. 

It should be observed, that Camellias are by no means 
tender shrubs, but require to be kept in a medium, even 
temperature, and they generally succeed best in a green- 
house, where the atmosphere is damp. As the buds begin 
to swell, they will require more water than at any other tim.e, 
which may be applied from the rose of a watering-pot, or 
syringe, while in bud, but when in blossom it should be ap- 
plied to the earth. 

If Camellias be kept where there is a dry air, occasioned- 
from fire heat, they must have plenty of the natural air at 
all opportunities, or the buds will become brown and fall 
off; and if they are subject to extreme cold at night, which 
is too often the case when kept in rooms of an uneven 
temperature, premature decay (ff the buds will inevitably be 
the consequence. 

To preserve Camellias in a healthy condition, they should 
be kept in a fresh, moderately light soil, consisting of sandy 
loam taken from under grass sods, and leaf mould well 
mixed ; nothing being more injurious to them than over- 
potting ; they should not be shifted into larger pots, until the 
projection of their roots show evidently that they are in need 



MONl'ltLY dALENDAK. J4S 

of it. Few plants bear privation of sunshine in summer 
better than these ; they should, however, be kejit in an open 
situation, where they can have a full share of light and air. 

Such bulbous roots as may be in progress of blooming, 
will require attention this month ; turn them frequently to 
the light, as recommended in page 95, and increase the sup- 
plies of water as they advance toward perfection. 

Attend to Campanula Pyramidalis, Hepeticas, Mhmdus, 
Senecios, and herbaceous plants in general ; those not in bud 
should be watered very sparingly. Shrubby plants, espe- 
cially those which bud and blossom in winter, and the early 
part of spring, as the several varieties of the Acacias, Aza- 
leas, Calceolarias, Correas, Coronillas, Daphnes, Diosmas, 
Eupatoriums, Eutaxias, Fuchsias, Gnidias, Heaths, Laurus- 
tinuses. Lemon trees, Rhododendrons, Orange trees, &c.^ 
will require water once or twice a week, according to cir- 
cumstances, and air should be given at all opportunities, or 
the plants will not blossom in perfection. 

For the benefit of such as may wish to raise early plants 
from seed, or to force Dahlia or other roots, I subjoin the 
following brief directions for making a small hot-bed : In a 
border exposed to the morning sun, let a pit be dug about 
thirty inches deep,, five feet wide, and six long ; this will 
admit of two sashes, each three feet by five. A frame of 
suitable dimensions may be made of plank ; the back plank 
may be two feet wide, and the end ones sloped so as to 
make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front. The frame being 
made, set it over the pit, and then get a load of horse dung, 
fresh from the livery stables, (not such as has lain long, or 
may have been soddened with water,) spread it evenly m 
the pit until full, then put into the frame rich light mould, 
or compost, to the depth of ten or twelve inches, and the 
seed may be sown as soon as it gets warm. It may be 
necessary to observe, that in makmg hot-beds, the quantity 
of top mould should be regulated according to the substance 
of the manure m the pit, and this may vary according to the 

L3 



116 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

use the beds are intended for, or to other circumstances. 
After the seed are sown, the beds will require constant atten- 
tion ; cover up warm in cold nights, and give air at all oppor- 
tunities, to prevent the plants from growing weak. 

As we are subject to northwest winds at this season, which 
produce extreme freezing, it will be better to delay the 
making of hot-beds to the first week in March, at which time 
opportu7iities will frequently offer of giving plants a tolera- 
ble share of salubrious air, which is indispensable to their 
preservation. 



MARCH. 

The " Yellow Crocus," in her simple dress, 
And the "pale Primrose" chaste in loveliness, 
Though the fierce Storm King rides upon the gale, 
Foretels of Spring, 'midst snow and cutting hail. 

As the spring progresses, the external air will be soft and 
salubrious ; at which time it should be freely admitted to 
plants kept in rooms and green-houses. In proportion as the 
plants get air, they should have water applied from the rose 
of a watering-pot. 

Monthly Roses will require attention this month. It should 
be recollected, that it is from the young wood of these plants 
that buds are to be expected ; their gi'owth should, there- 
fore, be encouraged, by admitting sun and air at all oppor- 
tunities, and water when necessary. 

Primulas. There are several species of plants under this 
name, which exhibit their blossoms in March and April ; 
some of which are very beautiful, as the Polyanthus, English 
Spring Flowers, Auricula, &c. ; but I would now direct the 
reader's attention to the Chinese varieties, some of which 
are pure white, and others of a lilac colour. They are first 
raised from seed sown in the spring, and will keep two or 
three years. 



MONTULY CALENDAR. 147 

Plants that are full grown, will commence blooming in 
December, and continue to produce umbels of flow-ers for 
five or six months, if well attended to ; they are generally in 
their prime this month, at which time a little water should 
be appHed to the earth about twice a week. 

Many species and varieties of seed may be sown this month 
in hot-beds prepared as directed under the head February, 
page 145. 

Auricula, Polyanthus, and all other species of Primula 
seed, should now be sown. Mignonette, Ten Week Stock, 
and Dahlia seed, from choice varieties, may also be sown in 
pots, and care should be taken, when the plants are up, that 
they be not injured by excess of moisture. 

There are some splendid varieties of the Schizanthus 
which desei've attention at an early season. They are rather 
difficult of cultivation in pots, being apt to suffer by excess 
of heat or moisture ; and often, when in full bloom, die off 
suddenly by decays at the bottom of the stem. No plants 
will, however, more amply repay all the care and trouble 
that may be bestowed on them, than those of the elegant 
genus Schizanthus. The best soil for them is loam apd leaf 
mould, with a small portion of sand. They should be re- 
potted as often as the pots are filled with roots, till they 
come into full flower. 

All the different varieties of tender annual, biennial, and 
perennial flower seed, designated thus § and thus t in our 
Catalogues, pages 18 and 30, may be sown this month in 
hot-beds, or in pots kept in the green-house. 

Hyacinths, Narcissus, and other bulbs in glasses, must 
have the water shifted every week, and the glasses should 
be thoroughly washed every two or three weeks, 96. 

Toward the end of the month, roots of Amaryllis formo- 
sissima, Gladiolus psHtacinna, Tiger Flower, Tuberose, and 
such other bulbs as may have been preserved dry through 
the winter, may now be planted in pots and kept in a green- 
house or light room, or else plunged in a hot-bed. Those 



1 IS MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

who have no such conveniences may, however, delay the 
planting of sound bulbs, until the weather will admit of their 
being planted in warm borders. 

DahUa roots should now be plunged in a hot-bed, to for- 
ward them, with a view to their being separated, as soon as 
the eyes are discernible, 77. 



APRIL. 

As Nature feels the sun's life-giving rays. 
And genial showers now mark the lengthen'd days, 
Buds and sweet blossoms, redolent of Spring, 
To meditation soothing moments bring. 

This is the most important month in the year for gardenino- 
operations. If not done toward the end of the last month, 
the covering must be taken from hardy flowering plants 
early in this month, and the beds and borders attended to as 
directed, pages 22 and 37 ; at the same time, clip edgings of 
box, and clean, re-lay, or make new gravel walks, &c., 15 ; 
prune and transplant flowering shrubs, 39 and 53 ; trans- 
plarit also hardy herbaceous plants, 34 and 35. 

Sow flower seed ; the hardiest may be sown in the open 
borders, and the tender in hot-beds, 23 and 33. 

All the soil of a garden should be dug this month, if pos- 
sible, and pulverized as directed, 22 and 65. 

It will be necessary to look over all the green-house plants 
in the early part of this month ; let them be deprived of 
dead wood, if any, by a careful pruning ; at the same time 
take off" all yellow leaves ; the earth at the top of the pots 
should be loosened, so as to admit the sun and air to the 
roots of the plants, 99 and 101. 

If insects prevail on Roses or other plants, a fumigation 
with tobacco will be necessary. 

Bulbous roots will require some attention this month ; 
those in bloom in the garden should be tied up to wiies or 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



149 



small sticks ; and those kept inside should be watered in 
proportion as they get heat and air. 

The Calla, or Ethiopian Lily, and the different varieties 
of Rhododendrons, will need frequent watering while in bud 
and blossom. 

Air must be admitted freely to all green-house plants 
toward the end of this month, in order to prepare them for 
the exposure of the open garden next month. 

For the method of managing Dahha roots, see page 77 ; 
prepare to plant tender bulbous roots toward the end of this, 
or early in the next month. The following should be for- 
warded in pots, which may be kept in a green-house or warm 
room, or they may be plunged in a hot-bed : Amarylhses, 
67; Gladioluses, 80; Lilies, 84; Tuberoses, 92; Tiger 
Flowers, 93. 

Hydrangeas, Pomegranates, Verbenas, and other decidu- 
ous shrubby plants, should be cultivated early in this month, 
to promote the production of leaf and flower-buds. 

Biennial seed, such as Wall Flower and Stock Gilly Flower, 
also all kinds of tender perennials, should be sown this 
month, if not previously done in the green-house, or in hot- 
beds, 23, 33, and 103. 

For an exhibition of the order of the flowering tribe in 
this month and the next, the reader is referred to an article, 
entitled ' The Beauties of April and May,' pages 54 to 62. 



MAY. 



The blue ey'd May, rejoicing in her train, 
Spreads her green mantle o'er the grove and plain ; 
From beds of Violets grateful odours rise 
In fragrant incense to benignant skies. 

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be 
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. 
Burn tobacco leaves in the green-house, so as to fumigate 

13* 



150 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

the plants well, before they are removed into the open gar- 
den ; and such plants as may show any indications of being 
infested with the eggs of insects, should be sponged with 
soapsuds, and afterward well syringed and watered. Fre- 
quent sprinkling from the rose of a watering-pot will pre- 
vent insects from accumulating ; especially if the water be 
impregnated with tobacco, by a bag of the leaves being 
steeped therein a few hours previous to using it. 

Choice Geraniums will need attention this month, in order 
that they may exhibit their flowers to advantage. When in 
full bloom, care should be taken not to wet the foliage or 
flowers ; but this may be done freely before the buds are 
expanded. 

If awnings were not provided last month for the protec- 
tion of choice flowers, it should be attended to early in this 
month, 69, 81, and 92 ; plant Amaryllises, 68 ; Double 
Dahlias, 78 and 79 ; Gladioluses, 80 ; Lilies, 84 ; Tuberose, 
92 ; Tiger Flowers, 93 ; sow annual, biennial, and perennial 
flower seed in the open borders, 23 to 33. Attend to the 
walks, edgings, &c., and see that tall plants are neatly tied 
to sticks, wires, or stakes, 15, 21, 79, and 81. Procure and 
plant such perennial plants as may be necessary to make 
variety in the flower beds, 34. 

Green-house plants may be set out about the middle of 
the month, and it should be done in cloudy weather, in order 
that they may be prepared gradually for the shining of the 
sun upon them. A situation exposed to the sun for only one 
half the day is preferable for most plants, especially if they 
can be shaded at noon, 35. 

Many plants, such as Coronillas, Heaths, Aucubas, Myr- 
tles, Oleanders, and several other sorts, are subject to be in- 
fested with white and brown scaly insects ; if these cannot 
be effectually taken from the plants by washing and spung- 
ing, let the plants be headed down early in the month of 
May, and if they are well attended to, new branches will 
shoot out on the old stem. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 151 

Such Orange trees as were budded last July or August, 
should be headed down early in this month. 

Auriculas, Polyanthus, and Daisies, should be separated 
into single tufts, and planted in a shady border for increase, 
as soon as they have done blossoming. 

Such Carnations as may have been wintered in frames 
should now be exposed to the open air, in the flower borders. 

Tulips, which will be in full perfection by the middle of 
this month, will require constant attention. 

Such green-house plants as may have done blossoming 
may be pruned this month, and if the cuttings be planted at 
this time they will strike freely, 101. 

Cuttings of Salvia splendens and fulgens will produce 
strong plants for blossoming in August, if planted early in 
this month. Chrysanthemum cuttings should now be put 
down, and the suckers divided, and planted singly in bor- 
ders, or in pots, for flowering in the autumn, 102. 



JUNE. 



The blushing glory and the pride of June, 
Blooms tlie red Rose — why should it fade so soon ! 
E'en the gay Tulip finds a rival here, 
Though rich in tints, warm, delicate, and clear. 

The principal sowing season may be considered as past ; 
but if any failures should have happened of former sowings, 
seed may be sown the early part of this month, which, if 
kept watered occasionally, will grow quickly. 

Green-house plants will need watering every evening, in 
dry warm weather; and in the absence of dews, some sorts 
may need a little in the morning at sunrise, 100 ; Hydran- 
geas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, &c., should be kept 
shaded from the noonday sun, or they will droop, and some 
may die. Carnations and Pinks will need frequent waterings 
at the roots, and the branches should be tied neatly to iods. 



152 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

Such flowering shrubs as may have been planted late in 
the spring season, should be regulaily watered in dry weather. 
Give frequent waterings to the flower beds, in general ; cut 
down dead flower stalks ; remove decayed plants, and care- 
fully replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery bed. 
Transplant annual flower plants into the regular beds with 
a small trowel, or neat dibble, 27. 

Plant Colchicuras, 70 ; finish planting Dahlias, and pro- 
vide poles for their support, 78 and 79 ; water them occa- 
sionally in dry weather. 

Many sorts of bulbous roots will be ripe by the end of this 
month ; these should be taken up and dried as directed, 
, page 65. Those cultivated in pots should not be watered 
after the foliage is decayed, until the period of re-germina- 
tion takes place, 66 and 94. 

Numerous beautiful flowers exhibit themselves this month, 
some of which are noticed in an article, entitled ' The 
Beauties of April and May,' page 54 to 62. There are, 
however, several others worthy of notice, which are omitted 
in that article. The several species of Phlox are remarka- 
bly showy plants, and very desirable to cultivate, as they 
blossom in their several varieties the whole season. Beside 
these, are the splendid varieties of Roses, Pinks, Lychnises, 
Sweet Williams, Fox Gloves, Snap-dragons, Perennial Lu- 
pins, Verbenas, Veronicas, Valerians, &c. These should all 
be attended to, and their branches tied to neat stakes, so as 
to enable them to exhibit their flowers to the greatest possi- 
ble advantage. 

Dahlias that are intended for blossoming this year should 
be planted by the middle of this month, if not done before, 78. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. llSS 

JULY. 

Pinks and Carnations, ye are fair to view, 
Creative wisdom siiines in every hue ; 
Ye raise the mind, improve the human heart, 
And goodly precepts gracefully impart. 

G-reen-house plants will need daily care at this season ; 
let them be watered every evening in dry weather. Such 
Geraniums as may have grown large and unwieldly, should 
now be pruned, in order that their size and appearance may 
be impi'oved, 101. 

Garden Roses, having done flowering for the season, 
should also be pruned. Cut out all old exhausted wood, and 
where it is too thick and crowded, shorten such shoots as have 
flowered, to a good fresh strong eye, or bud, accompanied 
with a healthy leaf. All wood that grows after this pruning 
will ripen perfectly, and produce large flowers the ensuing 
year. 

If dry warm weather, it may be necessary to water such 
flowering shrubs and Roses as were planted in the spring; 
and if Dahlia plants could be watered two or three times a 
week, it would be beneficial to their growth. Give regular 
sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot, or syringe, to 
shrubby plants in general, but particularly Camellias, Orange 
and Lemon trees, &c., in order to keep them in a healthy 
state. 

Such bulbous roots in pots, whose foliage have withered, 
should be kept dry until the period of re-germination, 6Q 
and 94 ; others may be taken up as soon as ripe, after which 
the offsets may be parted off", and both these and the petrent 
bulbs dried for planting in autumn, 65. 

The flower garden should be kept weeded and watered, 
and the seed gathered as they ripen ; apply neat rods to tall - 
growing and running kinds of plants. Nip off" curled and 
dead leaves, and destroy insects, 15. 

Orange and Lemon trees may be budded at any time thiK 
month, and those which were headed down in the spring 



$f4 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

should be examined, and all supeifluous shoots must be 
pruned off with a sharp knife, leaving only the strongest ; 
the tops of which should be pruned off to promote their 
branching. Myrtles, Oleanders, and such other plants as may 
have been headed down in May, will need similar treatment. 
Carnations, Pinks, Pansies, Running Verbenas, &c., may 
be layed this month for propagation, 33 and 34 ; many 
kinds of cuttings, as Geraniums, Roses, and exotic shrubs, 
may still be planted with success, 50. 



AUGUST. 

Brief is the mission of the fragile Flowers ; 
Some droop and die e'er close the sunny hours ; 
Just as a maiden, in life's opening bloom, 
Lamented sinks into an early tomb. 

Green-house plants vdll need particular attention this 
month. They should be watered every evening in dry 
weather, and as soon as the extreme heat of the summer is 
past, which is generally by the latter end of this month, or 
early in the next, preparation must be made for replenish- 
ing with fresh compost, and re-potting such plants as are in- 
tended to be cultivated through the winter in a green-house, 
light room, or garden frames. Previous to the commence- 
ment of this business, let such compost as is suited to the 
various kinds of plants be provided, 101. 

Those who may have a number of plants in various sized 
pots, should provide a few new pots a size larger than the 
largest in use ; the largest plants being shifted into the new 
pots, leaves the next sized pots for the second-sized plants, 
and by pursuing this plan of shifting until the whole are 
done, the smallest pots will be left for such plants as have 
been propagated in the course of the summer. 

The shifting of plants requires considerable attention and 
judgment, as some plants, if kept in too large pots, will sus- 
tain eonaiderable injury : therefore, in such cases, where tl\e 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. W5 

fibrous roots have not spread around the pot, nothing more 
is necessary than to rub off a little of the outside mould, and 
then to substitute fresh compost for the roots to run in. 

Such plants as may have become pot-bound, and whose 
roots are matted around the pot, will, in many cases, bear 
reducing. If the matted roots are carefully pared off, and 
the plants shifted into good fresh compost, they will soon take 
root, and grow freely ; but it will be necessary to prune off 
all surplus branches of the plants previous to re-potting them, 
and to shade them for a week or ten days. 

Pieces of tile, or broken pots, should be laid over the aper- 
ture at the bottom of the pots, to enable the surplus moisture 
to drain off, or the roots will sustain injury. 

The flower beds will need attention this month. Water 
Dahlias and other choice plants in dry weather ; cut down 
all decayed flower stalks, as soon as the seed is gathered, and 
pull up annuals as they cease to flower. 

Plant Oxalises in small pots, 86, and prepare compost for 
other tender bulbs to be planted in pots next month. 

Rose shrubs. Orange, and Lemon trees, &c., &c., should 
be budded early in this month, if not done before, 



SEPTEMBER. 

still some with vigour lift their lordly heads, 
Imparting splendour to their cultured beds, 
In lustrous colours decked, they proudly shine, 
And look enchanting to their last decline. 

Such green-house plants as may have been re-potted and 
pruned in the course of the last month, should be looked 
over, and if they have taken root, they should be exposed 
gradually to the sun, and watered moderately in diy weather. 

If any of the green-house plants were plunged in the flower 
beds, they should be taken up and pruned early iu this 
month, and then put into suitable sized pots, 35. 



156 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

Half-hardy perennials, such as Carnations, Daisies, Pri^ 
mulas. Lilies, Hydrangeas, &c., should be taken up, divided 
carefully at the roots, and then put into moderate sized pots, 
and attended to as before directed for green-house plants. 

Many hardy kinds of flower seed may be sown this month, 
24 and 34. This is a good season to propagate all kinds of 
hardy perennial plants, by parting the roots ; and those that 
were jaised from seed in the spring, may be transplanted 
into regular flower beds, in cloudy or wet weather, 27 and 
35. Plant Crown Imperials, 69 ; Persian Cyclamens, 70 ; 
Ixias, 82 ; Lachenalias, 83 ; Lilies, 84 ; Ornithogalums, 86 ; 
Oxalses, 86. 

Such Chrysanthemums as are intended to be protected 
while in blossom, should now be taken up and planted in 
moderate sized pots, 102. 

Seeds of Schizanthus, Ten-week Stock, Mignonette, and 
such other species as may be desired to decorate the parlor 
or green-house, should be sown this month, 103. 



OCTOBER. 

Ling'ring and lonely on their trembling stems, 
Surviving yet, are Flora's latest gems ; 
Their hour arrives, brown Autumn's parting breath 
Sighs o'er the Dahlias and proclaims their death ! 

In the early part of this month, preparation must be made 
for the housing of green-house plants. Previous to this being 
done, let the room or green-house be whitewashed with lime, 
which will prove pernicious to insects, and prevent their 
generating among the plants. 

Begin the first week in this month to place all the shrubby 
plants, such as Oi-ange and Lemon trees, on the back shelves; 
others should be so placed that they can be cultivated to 
advantage, and they should all be arranged in regular grada- 
tion, so as to have the low-growing or dwarf plants on the 
front shelves. 



MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



Stock Gillies and Wall Powers should be taken up, potted, 
and kept in a shady situation until they have taken root. 

Such Dahlia plants as have been cultivated in pots should 
be sheltered from the chilling air, and those in the ground 
will need attention, 65 and 66. 

Prepare the ground for all the hardy kinds of bulbous 
flower roots, 64 and 65. Toward the end of the month plant 
Anemones and Ranunculuses, 68 ; Crocuses, 69 ; Crown 
Imperials, 69 ; Gladioluses, 80 ; Hyacinths, 81 ; Irises, 82 ; 
Ixias, 82 ; Jonquils, 83 ; Lilies, 84 ; Narcissus, 85 ; Omitho- 
galums, 86 ; Paeonies, 87 ; Tulips, 92. For the management 
of bulbous roots in pots and glasses, see pages 94 to 96. 
Prune flowering shrubs, and make new plantations of them, 
53. 

Chrysanthemums should be neatly tied up to small sticks, 
and watered occasionally with liquid manure, to promote 
their blossoming in full perfection. Those in pots intended 
to be protected for late flowering, should be watched and 
taken in, on the appearance of a frosty night ; they may, 
however, be exposed to the air as much as possible when it is 
soft and salubrious, as should all other half-hardy plants, 101 
and 102. 



NOVEMBER. 

As the sweet flowers — men flourish and decay ; 
Howe'er they shine they quickly pass away ; 
If Virtue bless'd them in their mortal lot, 
Each has an epitaph, " Forget me not" 

During the continuance of mild weather, green-house 
plants should have air at all opportunities, and water in pro- 
portion as heat and air are attainable, 99 and 100. Bulbous 
roots in pots and glasses will also need attention, 94 to 96. 

Half-hardy plants, such as Stock Gillies, Wall Flowers, 
Carnations, Primulas, Hydrangeas, Daisies, &c., must either 
be placed in frames or in a green-house early in this month. 

14 



I'^S MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

If Dahlia, Tuberose, and other tender roots were not 
taken up last month, let it be done in due time this month, 
65 and 66. 

Cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light litter, 37 ; 
finish planting bulbous roots before the frost sets in. Plant 
Anemones and Ranunculuses, 68 ; Crocuses, 69 ; Hyacinths, 
81 ; Irises, 82 ; Ixias, 82 ; Jonquils, 83 ; Lilies, 84 ; Narcissus, 
85 ; Paeonies, 87 ; Tulip, 88 to 92. These, and all other 
kinds of plants, will need protection before the setting in 
of the winter, 65 and 66. Flowering and ornamental shrubs 
may be planted in mild weather, 53 ; lay long litter round 
the roots of them, and also of the Grape vines and other 
tender plants, shrubs, &c. 

Before the winter sets in severely, let such Chrysanthe- 
mums as may have been cultivated in pots be planted in the 
garden, or as soon as they have done blossoming, 102. 

Plant Grladioluses in pots, 80 ; also such other bulbous 
roots as may be required to be kept in rooms, page 95. 

Mignonette, and other tender seedling plants under pro- 
tection, will require attention at this season ; they should 
not be over-watered, or the plants will perish with mildew^ 

Camellias should be frequently syringed while in bud, or 
watered over the foliage with a rose attached to the water- 
ing pot, as should all other shrubby plants. 



DECEMBER. 

Descending snow, the yellow leaf and sear. 
Are indications of old Time's career ; 
The careful florist tends his sheltered plants, 
Studies their nature, and supplies their wants. 

If all was not done as directed last month, there is now 
no time to be lost. All kindb of tender plants in pots should 
be set into frames or pits, and plunged in old tan or light 
mould ; and in the event of severe frosts, coverings of mats, 
straw, &c., must be laid over them. 



1 KQ 

MONTHLY CALENDAR. ^*^^ 

Green-house plants will need constant care and attention. 
When water is necessary, let it be given in mild weather, 99. 
In case of accidents happening from frost, I would remark, 
that the sudden transition from cold to heat is often more de- 
structive to plants than frost itself If plants get ^ozen and 
cannot be screened from the rays of the sun, they should be 
watered as the air gets warm, and before they begm to thaw. 
If sufficient attention be paid, so as to have the temperature 
of the house rise gradually as the water is sprmkled over 
the leaves, it may be a means of preserving plants that would 
otherwise be destroyed. _ 

See that the green-house, or room, in which plants are 
kept, is so secure as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or 
the departure of warm air in the night season. 
^ Collect from heaths and rocks such kinds of earth as are 
suited to the different species of exotic plants, and gather 
up leaves of trees. If you intend to make hot-beds of them, 
they should be put together dry ; but if you intend them for 
compost, they may be laid together as wet as possible, m 
order that they may rot, for use in succeeding years. 



160 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 

The Author has appended the following article, entitled 
' The Matrimonial GtArden,' under the impression that it 
was appropriate to the subject treated of in this work, and 
would prove acceptable to most of his readers, especially 
to the fair sex. 



THE 



MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 



Man is formed for social enjoyment, and if it be allowed 
that " It is not good for man to be alone," it may be justly 
inferred that it is not good for woman to be alone ; hence a 
union of interests indicates a union of persons for their mu- 
tual benefit. By this union, a sort of seclusion from the rest 
of our species takes place ; and as a garden is a retired 
apartment, appropriated to culture and improvement, the 
mairied state may not inaptly be compared with it in many 
respects. 

It is good and honourable for the human species, pru- 
dently and cautiously to approach this delightful enclosure. 
Its entrance is usually extremely gay and glittering, being 
strewed with flowers of every hue and every fragrance cal- 
culated to charm the eye and please the taste ; but they are 
not all so ; and as there are many persons who may wish to 
enter this garden at some time or other, who are yet stran- 
gers to its various productions, their attention should be di- 
rected to the cultivation of those plants which are beneficial, 
and to the avoiding or rooting up of those which are injurious. 



THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. loL 

4nd first, let me caution adventurers in this garden not 
to dream of per.aanent happiness; if you should so dream, 
experience will soon make you wiser, as such happmess 
never existed but in the heads of visionaries If you are 
desirous that this garden shall yield you all the bhss of which 
it is capable, you must take with you that excellent flower 
called Good Humour, which, of all the flowers of nature, is 
the most delicious and delicate ; do not drop it or lose it, as 
many do, soon after they enter the garden ; it is a treasure 
the loss of which nothing can supply. When you get to the 
end of the first walk, which contains about thirty steps,t com- 
monly called " The Honey Moon Path," you will find the 
garden open into a vast variety of views, and it is necessary 
to caution you to avoid many productions here which are 
noxious, nauseous, and even fatal in their nature and ten- 
dency, especially to the ignorant and unwary. There is a 
low, small plant, which may be seen in almost every path, 
called Indifference. Though this is not perceived on enter- 
ing, you will always know where it grows, by a certain cold- 
ness in the air which surrounds it. Contrary to the nature 
of plants in general, this grows by cold and dies by warmth ; 
whenever you perceive this change in the air, avoid the place 
as soon as you can. In the same path is often found that 
baneful flower called Jealousy, which I advise you never to 
look at, for it has the strange quality of smiting the eye that 
beholds it with a pain that is seldom or never got rid of. 
Jealousy is a deadly flower; it is the aconite of the garden, 
and has marred the happiness of thousands. 

As you proceed, you will meet with many httle crooked 
paths. I advise you, as a friend, never to go into them ; for 
although, at the entrance of each, it is written m large 
letters, I am right, if you do enter, and get to the end ot 
them, you will find the true name to be Perverseness. 
These crooked paths occasion endless disputes; and as it 
is difficult to makejheoWied^t^^ 
+ Thirty days. 



162 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 

them altogether, lest, as sometimes happens, a total separa- 
tion be the consequence, and you take different paths the 
i;;est of your lives. Near this spot you will meet with a 
rough, sturdy plant, called Obstinacy, which bears a hard 
knotty fruit that never digests, and of course must injure the 
constitution ; it even becomes fatal, when taken in large 
quantities. Turn from it ; avoid it as you would the cholera. 
Just opposite to this grows that lovely and lively shrub 
called Compliance, which, though not always pleasant to the 
palate, is very salutary, and leaves a sweetness in the mouth ; 
it is a most excellent shrub, and produces the most delicious 
fruit. Never be without a very large sprig in your hand ; 
it will often be wanted as you go along, for you cannot be 
happy without it in any part of the garden. 

In one of the principal compartments stands a very Im- 
portant plant, called Economy ; it is of a thriving quality ; 
cultivate this fine plant with all your care, for it adorns and 
enriches at the same time. Many overlook it, some despise 
it, and others think that they may never want it ; it is gene- 
rally overlooked in the gayety and levity with which people 
enter this place, but the want of it is generally deplored 
with bitter repentance. There are two other plants of the 
same species, which are very closely connected, called 
Industry and Frugality, and I must take leave to tell you, 
that unless both the male and the female partake largely of 
their branches, very little success can be expected ; in ibis 
they must both unite. Take care that you provide yourself 
and partner with a supply of each as soon as possible after 
you enter the garden. 

There are two or three paths which run much into one 
another ; in them you will find growing interspersed three 
plants, which deserve the closest attention of the softer sex ; 
these are called Regularity, Exactness, and Simplicity.! 
Do not think, as some do, that when you have once got into 
the garden, you may be neglectful of these plants. Remem- 
t In depiirtmont ns well as in dress. 



THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 163 

ber that your companion will see your neglect, which will 
affect his eye, and may alienate his heart. Bestow a large 
share of attention on these plants, then, as soon as you enter 
the garden, for when you are once fairly in, you are in for 
life ; the danger is, that if you neglect them at an early 
period, you will not find them afterward. 

Near these walks is to be found that modest plant, called 
Humility : 

It is the Violet, " bom to blush unseen. 
And waste its sweetness on the desert air." 

It appears of little worth in itself, but when joined to other 
virtues, it adds a charm to life, and spreads a fragrance 
around its wearer. Cultivate, then, with all your care, this 
sweet little plant, and you will find it prevent the growth of 
all poisonous and noxious weeds. 

Allow me also to drop a hint on the subject of Cultivation, 
as connected with Propagation, as that most probably vnll 
be your employment in this garden, sooner or later. Should 
you have the rearing of a young plant, remember that it is 
frail in its nature, and hable to be destroyed by every blast, 
and will demand all your care and attention. Should you 
witness a blast on its dawning beauties, O ! how your fond 
heart will bleed with tenderness, affection, and sympathy ! 
The young shoot will naturally twine around all the fibres 
of your frame. Should it live and thrive, spare no pains to 
" train it up in the way it should go." Weed it, water it, 
prune it ; it will need all your skill. Without this, many 
weeds and baneful plants will grow up with it, and blast 
your fondest hopes. Be ever mindful that this is a trust 
for which both parties are accountable. 

Without careful cultivation, what can you expect but the 
most luxuriant growth of unruly appetites, which, in time, 
v/ill break forth in all manner of disgraceful irregularities 1 
What, but that Anger, like a prickly thorn, will arm the 
temper with an untractable moroseness 1 That Peevishness, 
like a stinging nettle, will render the conversation irksome 



104 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 

and forbidding ? That Avarice, like some choaking weed, 
will teach the fingers to gripe, and the hands to oppress 1 
That Revenge, like some poisonous plant, replete with bane- 
ful juices, will rankle in the breast, and meditate mischief to 
its neighbour] While unbridled Lust, like swarms of 
noisome insects, taint each rising thought, and render " every 
imagination of the heart only evil continually." Such are 
the usual products of unrestrained nature ! such the furni- 
ture of the uncultivated mind ! 

By all means, then, pay due attention to culture. By 
suitable discipline, clear the soil ; by careful instruction, im- 
plant the seed of virtue. By skill and vigilance, prune the 
unprofitable and over-luxuriant branches : " direct the young 
idea how to shoot," the wayward passions how to move. 
The mature man will then become the chief ornament of 
the garden. Around him Charity will breathe her sweets, 
and in his branches Hope expand her blossoms. In him 
the personal virtues will display their graces, and the social 
ones their fruit ; the sentiments become generous, the car- 
riage endearing, the life useful, and the end happy and 
peaceful. 



YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. 

PART III. 
FRUIT DEPARTMENT. 



CONTENTS. 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 

Page. 

Suo-gestions on the choice of a situation for an orchard, 7 
Of the best methods of preparing the various kinds of soil, 8 
Directions for transplanting fruit trees, - - - 9 
A communication from a friend, showing his plan of 

replanting trees, H 

Hints on the arrangement of trees, with a view to ob- 
tain successional crops of fruit. — Different soils 
described, suited to the various kinds of fruit, - 12 

OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH 
FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. 

Remedies for the prevention and destruction of insects, 13 
The best methods of curing diseases in fruit trees, - 14 
Composition to be used as a wash for fruit trees, at 

the time of pruning, 15 

Some of the most annoying insects and reptiles described, 16 
An earnest appeal to all agriculturists and horticultu- 
rists, showing the importance of encouraging the 
inhabitants of cities to preserve their ashes and 
soot in a dry state, for use on the land, - - 17 

OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT 
TREES AND VINES. 
The primary object of pruning explained, - - - 21 
Several methods described of pruning and training the 

vine, &c. ..------22 

The benefits arising from judicious pruning, - - 23 
Necessary Implements for pruning, &c. - - - 24 



H CONTENTS. 

BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. 

Page. 

Information respecting the time and manner of budding 

fruit trees, 25 

On the choice of scions, and mode of preparing the stocks, 27 

Cleft Grafting, Side Grafting, and Whip Grafting ex- 
plained, .--.....28 

Saddle Grafting, Root Grafting, and Grafting by Ap- 
proach, defined, 29 

Directions for making Forsyth's composition, - - 30 

Recipes for preparing liquids for washing the stems and 

branches of trees, .-.--- 31 

Instructions for making grafting clay and composition, 32 

ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 
Rules for judging the qualities of fruit trees, - - 33 
Directions for the management of Stone Fruits, to pre- 
vent their gumming at the roots, - - - 34 
A guide to the selection of distinct varieties of fruit, - 35 
Apple. Its history, cultivation, propagation, &c. - 37 
Seventy-six of the choicest varieties of Apples desciibed, 39 
Apricot. The best method of training, pruning, &c. 

explained, ..-.....-46 
Select descriptive list of Apricots, - - - - 49 
Almond. Its history, mode of culture, &c. - - 50 
Cherry. The various kinds enumerated, with direc- 
tions for their cultivation, 51 

Thirty-one of the most esteemed varieties described, - 53 
Chestnut. Its durability and other peculiar charac- 
teristics adverted to, - - - - - - 56 

Cranberry. Its adaptation for garden culture exem- 
plified, 57 

Currant. The best mode of cultivation shown, - - 58 

Select descriptive list of Currants, . - - - 60 
Fig. a fruit well calculated for cultivation in the United 

States, --- 61 



CONTENTS. Ill 

Page. 

The operation of Girdling or Ringing Trees explained, 62 
Seventeen of the best varieties of Figs described, - 63 

Gooseberry. Description of fifty-eight of the most 

celebrated varieties, - - - - - - 66 

An improved method of managing the Gooseberry, - 70 
Grape. The peculiar characteristics of the Grape Vine 

defined, 72 

The different manures adapted to the vine enumerated, 75 
On the various methods of propagating, grafting, &c. - 76 
Select descriptive list of foreign and native grapes, - 77 
Doctor G. W. Chapman's and Mr. Wm. Wilson's suc- 
cessful experiments on their vines, - - - 79 
Edward H. Bonsall's Vineyard Culture explained, - 80 
Doctor R. T. Underhill's account of his vineyard at 

Croton Point, -------83 

Concluding observations on training, pruning, and cul- 
tivating the vine, ------ 85 

Mulberry. Some of the most useful species described, 

with directions for their propagation and cultivation, 88 
Nectarine. Important hints, calculated to give this 
scarce but delicious fruit the best possible chance 
of success, if strictly attended to, - - - 91 

Select descriptive list of Nectarines, - - - - 94 

Orange, Lemon, &c. The several species of this fruit 

enumerated, &c. - - - - - - 96 

Peach. An elaborate review of the means best calcu- 
lated to overcome the difficulties attending the cul- 
tivation of this important fruit, - - - - 98 

Sixty-one of the best varieties of Peaches described, - 105 
Pear. A definition of the different qualities of this 
fruit, with directions for its propagation and culti- 
vation, -.--.--. Ill 
Observations on the alleged deterioration of the Pear, 

and other fruits, - - - - - - -113 

Eighty-eight of the most esteemed varieties of the Pear 

described, -------- 115 



IV CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Plum. The means best adapted for the perfection of 

this fruit explained, ------ 124 

Fifty-three of the finest varieties of Plums described, - 126 

Quince. Its history, its use, and method of culture ex- 
plained, -------- 131 

Raspberrv. All the most celebrated species and varie- 
ties enumerated, ------ 132 

Select descriptive list of Raspberries, - - - - 135 

Strawberry. The valuable properties of the Straw- 
berry, with directions for its cultivation, - - 136 

A descriptive list of the most esteemed species and 

varieties of Strawberries, ----- 138 

Walnut. Its use both as a fruit and timber tree, - 140 

CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

January. — An essay on the importance of improving 
the various species of fruit, by propagating none 
but the finest specimens for seed, and by amelio- 
rating the existing kinds by Cross Fertilization ; 
which process is explained in a clear and compre- 
hensive manner, ...--- 143 

February. — An attempt to prepare the young gardener 
for the timely performance of his work in the or- 
chard and fruit garden, in a judicious manner, by 
directing his attention to such business as can be 
done in unfavourable weather, that he may be en- 
abled to give prompt attention to other important 
business before the rise of the sap, and thus prevent 
much anxiety and labour, - - - - - 147 

March. — Directions for pruning Grape Vines, and Ap- 
ple, Cherry, Pear, and Quince Trees; for culti- 
vating Cranberries, Currants, Gooseberries, Rasp- 
berries, &c.; for preparing the ground for the 
reception of all kinds of fruit trees as soon as the 
weather becomes favourable ; for supporting newly 
planted trees by means of stakes, &c. - - - 149 



CONTENTS. V 

Page. 



April. — Attention is directed to the pruning of fruit 
trees, including Apricot, Almond, Fig, Mulberry, 
Nectarine, Peach, Plum, &c. ; also, to the cultiva- 
tion and propagation of trees, shrubs, and vines, by- 
cuttings, layers, grafting, and other methods, - 151 

May. — The gardener is reminded of the importance of 
finishing the work that was left undone last month 
without further delay ; and of attending to the de- 
struction of insects while in a torpid state, and the 
preservation of the Gooseberry and other fruits 
from mildew. By cultivating Raspberries and 
Strawberries as directed in April and June, such 
fruits may be produced at a late season, - - 153 

June. — The business of this month in the fruit garden 
consists of summer pruning, clearing the trees and 
vines of dead leaves and insects, and of protecting 
and cultivating early fruit to promote its ripening 
in full perfection, _..--- 155 

July. — Remedies for the protection of fruit from birds 
and ants, and for preserving Grape Vines from 
mildew. Judicious summer pruning, and atten- 
tion to Figs, Vines, &c., recommended, - - 156 

August. — As insects are engendered in vast quantities 
by the heat of our summers, the attention of gar- 
deners is directed to the use of bitter and acrid 
substances, which being made into a compost, is 
calculated to improve the land, as well as to destroy 
insects, ......-- 158 

September. — The subject treated of under this month 
relates chiefly to the rejection of various fruits, by 
many cultivators, and to the propensity of some 
persons to neglect old inmates of the garden for 
the sake of trying other varieties, merely because 
they are new, ------- 160 



n CMMRBNXS. 

October, — It is suggested that attention be paid to the 
careful eatherinsf of fruit, while in a perfect state; 
also to the preservadon ot Grapes, tScc. Directions 
for planting the pits of Cherrv, Peach, Plom, fax, 
and the kernels of Apple, Fear, and Quince ; ako 
for preparing the ground for the reception of all 
kinds of hardy fruit trees on the decline of the sap, 16S 

NoTEXBEB. — As winter is fast approaciing, it is recom- 
mended to protect tender tii^s, trees, shrubs, and 
plants, including Raspberry, Fig, Strawberry 
Plants, &c.; and to plant hardy miit trees while 
the land is susceptible of being tilled, - - - 163 

December. — At ail fevourable opportunities during this 
month die gardener is directed to prune hardy fruit 
trees, to scrape off all the moss and canker, and to 
wash the stems and branches with a liquid pre- 
pared according to a recipe given, ... 164 

Ak Address to the People of the Uxtteld States 
on the subject of an alleged discovery on Terra- 
Culture, submitted to the attention o£ the 2-5th and 
26di Congress, ------- 165 

A Bommary view of estimates, furnished with a view to 
aid the Seedsman and Grardener in making out a 
bill of seed, for the purpose of planting any given 
quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested 
in the vegetable department of die Young Grar- 
deners Assistant, ------ 170 



OBSERVATIONS 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 



In the preliminary observations on the subjects already 
treated of, I am aware that it may appear to some that I 
have not sufficiently urged the importance of a judicious 
selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil, &c. My object 
in not insisting on a strict attention to these important points 
was, because I know that, though good land is abundant in 
this extensive country, it is impossible for every one to choose 
for himself; and rather than any disadvantages in these 
respects should discourage proprietors of land from attempt- 
ing to raise garden products, so necessary to the comfort and 
convenience of every family, I have endeavoured to show 
them how to use to advantage whatever land may surround 
their places of abode. As, however, some have a choice, 
it may be necessary to offer some farther remarks on the 
subject. 

The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should be 
one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and 
is exposed to the south, with a slight inclination to the east 
and southwest. When the situation is low and close, the 
trees are very liable to become mossy, which always injures 
them, by closing up the pores of the wood ; they are also 
more liable to be affected by blight. Although having an 
orchard closely pent up by trees, &c., is injurious, neverthe- 
less a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from the fruit 
trees as that the latter will not be shaded by them, is of very 
great service in protecting the trees in spring from severe 
cold winds. 



8 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

A good Strong loamy boU, not too retentive of moisture, 
to the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable 
for an orchard. Great attention must be paid to the sub- 
stratum, as the ground must be well drained ; for if the top 
soil be ever so good, and the bottom w^et, it is very rarely 
the case that the trees prosper many years, when they begin 
to be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably 
necessary to the success of fruit trees that the bottom should 
be dry, if it is not naturally so, it must be made so by judi- 
cious draining. 

When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draining, 
it must be done some time before the trees are planted. In 
performing this work, the ground must be trenched, and 
when the trench is open, stone, or brick-bats, &c., must be 
laid over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little 
coal ashes, or small gravel, must be sprinkled over the top 
of the stones, &c., and then the surface gently rolled. 
Drains may also be made in different directions, so that any 
excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the 
ground. 

It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure of soils 
to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is experienced 
by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff and stub- 
born, small gravel, sand, coal ashes, lime, light animal and 
vegetable manure, and other light composts, are very appro- 
priate substances to be applied, and will, if carefully managed 
and well worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper 
condition for most purposes. 

Previous to laying out an orchard or fruit garden, the soil 
should be manured and pulverized to a great depth. It 
should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots 
receive may be wholesome ; free, that they may be at full 
liberty to range in quest of it ; and rich, that there may be 
no defect in food. 

If oichards are made from meadows or pasture lands, the 
ground should be improved as much as possible by mauur- 



ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. f 

ing, trenching, ploughiaig, &c. If this is not done to its full 
extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in width 
along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at the time 
of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is 
sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of 
sumcient depth to allow of a foot of rich and well-pulverized 
mould to be thrown in before the trees are planted. 

In transplanting trees, they should not be placed more than 
an inch or two deeper than they were in the nursery bed, and 
the earth intended for filling in should be enriched and well 
pulverized by mixing in some good old manure ; and if any 
leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other 
refuse of a farm, are attainable, let such be used around the 
trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould is 
admitted among the fine roots. The trees in planting should 
be kept at ease, and several times shaken, so as to cause an 
equal distribution of the finer particles of earth to be con- 
nected with the small fibres of the roots ; and when com- 
pletely levelled, let the ground be well trodden down and 
moderately watered, which should be repeated occasionally 
after spring planting, if the weather should prove dry. 

As some difference of opinion exists among practical men 
as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the following 
extract from Mr. Prince's Treatise on Horticulture is sub- 
mitted : 

*' Seasons for Transplanting. Spring is the season 
when we find the most pleasure in making our rural improve- 
ments, and from this circumstance, probably, it has become 
the general season for planting trees ; but experience has 
proved autumn planting to be the most successful, especially 
in those parts of the United States which are subject to 
droughts, as trees planted in autumn suffer little or none 
from drought, when those set out in spring often perish in 
■- consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to those 
fruits that have been originally brought from warmer cli- 



10 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

mates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, 
which are natives of Persia, Armenia, &c., it is necessary 
for us to consult the operations of climate also ; and, from 
a consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have 
come to the following conclusions : In localities south of 
New- York, autumn planting is preferable only for the Apple, 
Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees of northern 
latitude ; whereas, the spring is to be preferred for the 
Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which, for the 
reasons before stated, might, during severe winters, suffer 
fiom the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean to 
assert, that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured by 
the winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the least 
affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which may or 
may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent 
judgment, make their plantations in the autumn, which only 
serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent minds a 
diversity of opinion exists. 

" Trees, etc, on their Arrival at the Place of Des- 
tination. As soon as the trees arrive at the place where 
they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated 
ground, the bundles unpacked, the roots well wetted, and 
immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to 
make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to 
leave vacancies for the admission of air to dry the roots, it 
having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees 
the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine 
fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry 
from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ; 
their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the 
subsequent management on their arrival at the place of des- 
tination ; for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees 
are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of 
the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, can- 
not thrive the first season, as they can receive little or no 
nourishment until these fibres are replaced. 



ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. ft 

" To CAUSE THE Trees TO Thrive. The ground where 
they are planted must be kept cultivated ; young trees will 
not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around 
them ; and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass 
grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and 
free from grass for three or four feet distant around them, 
and every autumn some well-rotted manure should be dug 
in around each tree, and every spring the bodies of the 
Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry trees, and others that it is 
particularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be 
brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water j 
this treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing 
the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect. 
Should the first season after transplanting prove dry, regular 
watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper atten- 
tion in this respect, many lose a large portion of their trees 
dm-ing a drought "* 

Such kinds of fruit trees treated on in this work, as may 
require any other than good ordinary soil, may be supplied, 



* The following letter was received by the Author while he was pre- 
paring the copy for the ninth edition of this work : 

" In reading your very useful and entertaining work on Gardening, 
Planting Trees, and otherwise, I need not say, to me, it contained much 
that was new, original, and very useful ; yet, complete as is your admirable 
work, I found not therein one circumstance connected with replanting 
trees, of vital importance to be observed, particularly with those trees 
which have attained several years' growth, say trees from fifteen to twenty 
feet high, and from three to five inches diameter. Some seven or eight feet 
above the root, that is to say, at the time of digging up the tree, a mark 
should be made on the north or south side of the tree ; and on replanting 
the same, it should be set into the ground as nearly as possible in the same 
position to the sun (north or south) as it occupied before taken up, other- 
wise the tree will not be so thrifty ; if its sides are changed, it not unfre- 
quently appears sickly, and ultimately dies. Over twenty years' experi- 
ence in replanting some thousands of hard and soft Maple, Elm, and 
others, enables me to speak positively on this precaution. Whenever the 
community calls for another edition of your work, in that part relating to 
Replanting Trees, if you deem the above suitable for insertion therein, it 
might assist many who have not this knowledge, and oblige, 

" Yours with esteem, John Clowes, C. E." 



12 ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 

by judicious management ; and if a proper attention be paid 
to the situation and aspect in arranging a fruit garden, each 
kind may be so accommodated as to promote its fruits' ripen- 
ing earher or later than the ordinary season, by varying the 
aspect ; but Grape Vines, or other tender fruits, should not 
be planted where the sun's influence does not fully operate. 

Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it 
is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different 
aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a 
southern aspect, which will ripen earliest ; next, against either 
an eastern or western ; and lastly, against a northern aspect; 
by observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, 
Gooseberries, Currants, &c., the fruit will ripen in succes- 
sion, and thus a supply is considerably lengthened. The early 
blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm 
aspects ; for which arrangements may be made by keeping 
awning, matting, netting, &c., at hand, to shelter them with 
in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense 
heat of the sun after a frosty night ; this, with a sprinkling 
of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious 
consequences from slight frost. 

Those who have various soils, should suit them to the dif- 
ferent kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears require a strong 
loam, but the Pear rather the lightest. Apricots, Cherries, 
Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a good deal lighter than the 
Apple and Pear. Such fruits as may require peat, bog, or 
any other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be noticed as 
we proceed. 



13 



OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, 



DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. 



Much may be written relative to the various diseases to 
which fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention and 
destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects, which 
very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden. 
The preventive operations are those of the best culture. 
Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larvae of 
bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our winters, and 
the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c., are beneficial. 
Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete 
destruction effected, by the use of soapsuds, lye, tar, tui'pen- 
tine, sulphur, peppei', soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves, 
tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances ; but perhaps 
the most effectual way of keeping some of the most perni- 
cious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as 
may fall from the trees, before the insects have an opportu- 
nity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter. 

Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavourable 
situations, they often become diseased ; when this happens, 
the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees 
clean by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, 
they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation. 
Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad 
qualities of tlie earth and air, by a want of water, or by the 
inroads of insects. These incidents generally show them- 
selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of 
any colour but the natural green ; curled and ragged leaves : 

2 



14 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, 

branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the roots, 
instead of from the stem or trunk ; the stem diseased in its 
bark, the gum oozing from various parts thereof, are all 
proofs of the existence of disease. The Peach tree is sub- 
ject to a disease called the yellows ; and the discoloured 
leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms 
which so frequently attack the root ; where these are found, 
they may be removed by a knife or chisel ; but if it should 
appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to 
prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and 
also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to 
the fire blight ; this malady may be completely checked on 
its first appearance, by cutting off" and immediately burning 
the injured branches. Generally speaking, careful pruning, 
cleaning the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or 
tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting gocd 
earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most dis- 
eases in fruit trees ; removing them from a bad to a better 
soil will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a 
poorness of land ; for the old adage, " Remove the cause, 
and the effect will cease," will be here exemplified. To 
cure the oozing of the gum, nothing more is necessary than 
lo cut away the diseased parts of the bark ; and by thus 
assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or nox- 
ious juices, a complete cure may be effected. 

When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately 
sprinkled with soapsuds, and then be dusted over with sul- 
phur and tobacco dust, or snuff"; at the same time, dig 
around the tree, and examine the soil and subsoil ; if it be 
wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with 
good healthy soil, and the ground drained; if, on the con- 
trary, the gjound be dry, give it a plentiful watering ; the 
same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of 
blight, if applied in time. When any canker is observed, 
the part aff'ected must, at the time of pruning, be cut clean 
out, and the part thus dressed be pared, so that no water 



AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. f5 

can lodge in the wound ; when this is done, let a quantity 
of soot be mixed with water, and a little train oil well worked 
among it, but so that the mixture finally remains stiff; this 
may be plastered over all the wounds that have been pruned. 
The application of this mixture keeps out the wet from the 
wounds, where it would be likely to lodge, and both the 
soot and oil promote vegetation. When trees are cankery 
from having a bad subsoil, it is in vain to apply any remedy 
till the ground is properly drained, some fresh soil mixed 
with the natural soil, and the tree replanted. When trees 
are known to be so situated as to be particularly liable to the 
attacks of insects or disease, they should be attended to at 
the time of winter or early spring pruning, in order to de- 
stroy the insects in their larvae state. 

The following compositions have been known to protect 
fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by being 
used as a wash to the trees immediately after pruning. The 
constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture 
of ingredients than others ; but the proportions, as hereafter 
described, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual 
in the destruction of the larvae of insects. 

For Apricot, J^ectarine, and Peach Trees. To eight gal- 
lons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of 
common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper. 

For Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum Trees. To four gallons 
of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of com- 
mon sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black 
pepper. 

For Figs and Vines. To four gallons of water add half 
a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter 
of an ounce of black pepper. 

All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty 
minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to 
the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.* 

* For the destruction of the Apis, which frequently attacks the Apple, 
as well as other fruit trees, while young, an application of diluted whale- 
oil soap to the leaves and branches has been found very efficacious. 



16 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, 

The most destructive enemy to our fruit is the Curculio ; 
this insect passes the v\^inter in the earth in a chrysalis state, 
and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will 
be ready to commence its attacks at about the time the blos- 
soms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are deposited in 
the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early stage 
of their growth; these eggs soon hatch, and small maggots 
are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off 
prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this fruit be 
gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or 
other animals, a check may be put to their ravages in suc- 
ceeding years ; but if suffered to remain on the ground, they 
will supply food to myriads of their destructive race, which 
may not be so easily extirpated. 

The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the 
destruction of which many experiments have been tried. 
Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared 
over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females 
in their ascent to the tree ; but as these tormentors are fre- 
quently on the move from November to the end of June, 
this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As 
this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk 
of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from the 
surface of the earth, good culture, and a moderate use of 
lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the most 
likely way to destroy them. 

The bark-louse is another pernicious insect ; they resem- 
ble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be 
imperceptible ; they often prove fatal to the Apple tree, by 
preventing the circulation of the sap. These insects may be 
conquered by washing the trees with soapsuds, tobacco 
water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy 
water, salt, and lime, thickened to the consistency of cream or 
paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with 
a brush to the trunk and limbs of the trees ; this should be 
done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the 
cracks in the bark should be completely covered. 



AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 17 

The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath 
the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found 
in the spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and 
clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken out 
with a knife or gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are 
removed the wounds should be covered over with grafting 
clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then returned to 
the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers' mortar early 
in the spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the 
part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. 

Although our limits will not admit of a farther description 
of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and 
frequently destroy the fruit of our labour, I cannot forbear 
directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of 
saving all kinds of ashes. If all agriculturists and horticul- 
turists were to offer an inducement to the inhabitants of 
large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be 
supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote 
for many kinds of insects ; and our citizens would be at less 
risk from fire, by having a brick vault on their premises for 
safely keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is not 
considered complete without an ash-vault ; and a good farmer 
would dispense with his barn, rather than be destitute of an 
ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the cottagers 
with as much peat as they could burn, on condition of their 
sa\dng them the ashes ; and there are some that will keep 
men under pay throughout the year, burning peat for the 
same purpose ; and any thing that has passed the fire is so 
valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently clean chim- 
neys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed miles into 
the country, and sold at a price sufficient to reward the col- 
lectors, besides paying all expenses ; even the house-keep- 
ers' ashes in cities is a marketable article at all times, bring- 
ing from ten to twenty-five cents per bushel, when kept dry 
and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common 
price in the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire. 

2* 



18 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, 

While on this subject, I would urge the importance of a 
spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators w^ere to prepare 
turfs from tanners' bark, peat-earth, coal dust mixed with 
clay, cow dung, &c., and get them dried in the summer 
season, these, by being preserved through the winter, may 
be burned around fruit orchards, while the trees are in blos- 
som, and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be 
kept up by heaping on damp litter every night ; this will 
prove pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, 
and the ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a 
means of destruction to others. An orchard thus managed 
every year, will need no other manure. The smoking should 
be effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterward 
on the other, or heaps may be prepared in different parts of 
the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may 
serve to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I 
know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who 
saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after 
its having been used as a covering for his Spinach ; and I 
have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent reme- 
dy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially if some 
coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper 
the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will 
create ; and if a little tar, pilch, sulphur, or other pernicious 
combustible be sprinked among them, it will be beneficial. 
This subject appears to me of the utmost consequence to 
the farmer, as well as to the community at large ; I, there- 
fore, cannot forbear offering some farther observations. 

It must be acknowedged that, although this country con- 
tains an abundance of wood, coal, and peat, as well as 
almost every other description of fuel, yet the poor of our 
large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold ; and if all 
the tales of wo could be sounded in the ears of a sympa- 
thizing community during our severe winters, I am persuaded 
they would arouse them to the consideration of a I'emedy, 
It is an acknowledged fact that the poor of Europe are 



AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 19 

■cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this 
country. This arises, in a great measure, from the circum- 
stance of ashes being held in high estimation by agi'icultur- 
ists ; they are consequently a saleable article in their large 
towns and cities, at a price equal, in some instances, to half 
the cost of a winter's fuel. 

Now I would ask, how is it that ashes are not as valuable 
to the farmers here as they are in Europe 1 The extreme 
heat of the summer must certainly engender insects in equal 
if not greater proportions ; and as respects manure, it must 
be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country than it 
is in the densely peopled countries of Europe. Perhaps 
some may answer, that ashes are already used by our culti- 
vators to a considerable extent ; but I would remind such, 
that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with 
other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather, (as in 
our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be 
worth more than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean. 

The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value 
than any others, and I am persuaded that, could they be 
fairly tested by some of our best cultivators, great good would 
result to the community. If the farmers in England can 
afford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for 
the sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor 
of our community may be placed in easier circumstances as 
respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land 
are to be found in the States of New- York and New-Jersey, 
and within a few miles of this city, which abound with peat 
earth ; and the owners of such have already begun to ex- 
plore their treasures of this description. Good peat is now 
to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per 
bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all 
8orts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal, 
and also on the hearth ; and if the ashes are not used to any 
better purpose than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the 
cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this subject is 



20 OBSERVATIONS, ETC. 

wortliy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the 
different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to 
direct some of our most active citizens to a consideration of 
this subject, incalculable good would result to the commu- 
nity at large. 

If the public authorities of our cities, and all those who 
distribute fuel among the poor, gratis, would give them peat 
instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would 
answer every purpose to the consumei's. Twelve bushels 
might be given in the first winter month to each of the ap- 
plicants, instead of wood, with a strict injunction to save 
their ashes in a dry state, in order to their being taken in 
exchange for a future supply of peat. It could be easily 
ascertained how much ashes twelve bushels of peat would 
make ; and if a strict attention be paid to the conditions of 
exchange, it would soon be discovered which of the appli- 
cants was the most entitled to the distributor's bounty. The 
same sheds which it would be necessary to provide for hous- 
ing the peat, could be used as a deposit for the ashes. If 
such sheds be conveniently constructed to hold each a mode- 
rate quantity, the first which is emptied of peat may be filled 
with the first ashes that are returned in exchange for a future 
supply of fuel, and they could all be used for the same pur- 
pose as they become empty. These ashes, when fairly tested, 
may become a merchantable article as in Eui-ope ; and it is 
very probable that farmers may be induced to take them in 
exchange for future supplies of peat ; they could, however, 
be conveyed into the country at a trifling expense, and 
would, no doubt, meet with a ready sale. 



21 



OBSERVATIONS 



TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. 



In training and pruning fruit trees and vines, particular 
attention is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency 
of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark 
and wood in an uninterrupted succession from the root to 
the extremities of the branches ; pruning, therefore, is use- 
ful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous 
wood, and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning 
may be performed at different seasons of the year, according 
to the kinds of fruit, which will be shown under each head, 
as we proceed. 

In the spring or summer pruning, be careful not to destroy 
the germs of future fruits, but merely remove all unservice- 
able sprigs. In the winter season, make your selection from 
the wood shoots of the preceding year ; keep those which 
appear the most healthy, and cut away those which seem 
redundant. Beginners had better prefer the spring, as the 
buds will then be a guide for them to go by ; but this busi- 
ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as some 
kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned 
untimely. Vv^hen the sap rises in Grape Vines, &c., before 
the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily 
stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it 
with melted wax, or with warm pitch spread upon a piece 
of bladder ; or peel off the outside bark to some distance 
from the place, and then press into the pores of the wood, 
a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the con- 
sistence of putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as ia 



22 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 

spring, though not so copiously. The best preventive 13 
timely or early pruning in the spring, and not pruning until 
the w^ood is thoroughly ripe in autumn. 

With respect to the manner in which vines, and some 
particular kinds of trees, should be trained, opinions are at 
variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight and 
direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and others 
again in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be trained on low 
walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training 
may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from 
a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on 
each side. 

It has been remarked, that in order to be a good trainer 
of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable 
of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must pre- 
determine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut at the 
end of the season; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to 
his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with 
jespect to the vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of 
its rapid growth and docility. 

In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud. 
Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt 
to weaken the shoot of next season, and sometimes to pre- 
vent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of 
injury, on account of the sofi and spongy nature of the wood. 
In cutting out old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direc- 
tion, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to pie- 
vent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being 
finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind oir the old wood 
be carefully peeled off, observing not to injure the sound 
bark, and clear the trellis of branches, leaves, tendrils, fee 
Let the shoots and branches afterward be regularly laid in, 
at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots 
that are expected to bear next season. As to others, it is 
not so material how near the young shoots be placed to the 
uld, even tljctugh they sometimes cross them. Choose 



ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 23 

Strands of fresh matting, or pack thread, to tie with ; and 
observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoots 
and branches next season. 

By attending to the proper training of fruit trees, every 
advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in 
other respects, wood may not only be obtained, but preserved 
in every part of the tree, so that it will bear down to the 
very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of 
the gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and equally con- 
ducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees 
are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a sup- 
ply of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neg- 
lected, and they become naked, it is sometime before a sup- 
ply can be recovered. In shortening a branch, always take 
care to cut in a direction a little sloping, and the middle of 
all standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is 
requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be 
ragged, but clean, and in the operation be careful that the 
knife does not slip, so that another branch be cut or damaged. 
The general pruning of fruit trees is indifferently per- 
formed by many persons at any time from autumn to spring, 
and it may be so done without any great injury to them, 
provided mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the 
wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous 
to prune trees early in the winter, when the wood is well 
ripened, yet, when the wood is green and the buds have not 
arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in such cases to defer 
pruning until spring, taking care, however, that it is perform- 
ed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of this 
arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not ripened 
in autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will con- 
tinue so until the frost, &c., cause it to become stagnant ; 
and if the shoots were shoitened while the sap was in mo- 
tion, the buds would be considerably injured, and the tree 
weakened ; such unripe shoots are also more liable to suffer 
by the severity of winter, and when the pruning is deferred 



24 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 

until spi-ing, all such parts as may have been affected by the 
weather, can be removed to the extent to w^hich the damage 
has been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood 
in the autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is when 
it is done durino- winter, and the more so according to its 
severity; because, whenever a cut is made on such green 
wood, the frost generally affects it, as the sap is not so 
dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist its intense- 
ness. 

Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should 
be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible ; 
this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan 
or horizontal method. For espalier trees, the horizontal 
method has many advantages over any other; the small 
compass within which the trees are obliged to be kept, 
requires such a direction for the branches, in order to make 
them fruitful ; and were very high trellises formed, so as to 
admit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such 
would be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they 
would cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the 
benefit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated 
receive. 

As some young gardeners may not know what is meant 
by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers 
are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a 
frame or trellis of wood-work ; they produce large fruit plen- 
tifully, without taking up much room, and may be planted 
in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its 
other products. For espalier fruit trees in the open ground, 
a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed 
of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, 
according to taste or fancy. 

The implements employed in pruning, and the manner of 
using them, are matters of moment. If the operation is 
commenced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed 
up, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed 



ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 2§ 

on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the 
branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw 
will be occasionally wanted ; but an axe or hatchet should 
never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and 
tear the bark, and disfigure the tree. 



BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. 

Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations 
that equally depend for their success upon the property that 
buds possess of shooting roots downward, and stems up- 
ward ; but in these practices, the roots strike between the 
bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and 
form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres. 
The success of such practices, however, depends upon other 
causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings. 
It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between 
the scion and the stock, so that when the descending fibres 
of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of 
the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation. 
No one can have studied the economy of the vegetable 
kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong 
tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in 
contact with each other. 



BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 

To bud trees, let the following method be adopted : Pro- 
cure a knife which has a thin blade, and a sharp ivory han- 
dle ; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the 
handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the 
buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass 
in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from 
healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. When 

3 



26 ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 

all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stoclt transveisely, 
and from the middle of this cut make another downward, 
at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in 
the form of a T ; then from one of your sprigs proceed with 
expedition to take off a bud ; this is effected as follows : 
Insert the knife a little more than half an inch below the 
bud or eye, force it into the wood, drawing it under the bud, 
and cut the piece off across the shoot ; then immediately let 
that part of the wood which was cut off" with the bud be 
separated from it, which may be readily done with the knife, 
by placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one 
end, and, holding the bark in one hand, pull off" the woody 
part with the other, which will readily come from the bark, 
if the tree from which it was taken be in a vigorous con- 
dition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the 
bud remains perfect ; if there is no hole in it, let it be im- 
mediately inserted into the stock, which is done by raising 
with the handle of your knife the bark of the stock downward. 
on each side from the cross cut, and thrusting the bud in be- 
tween the bark and the wood, applying it as close as possi- 
ble. As soon as the bud is put into its place, bind it secuiely 
with bass, beginning a little below the cut, and proceeding 
upward, till you are above the cross cut, taking care to miss 
the eye of the bud, just so that it may be seen through the 
bandage of the bass. About a week or ten days after the 
stocks have been budded, they should be examined, when 
such as have united will appear fresh and full, and those that 
have not taken will appear decayed ; in the former case the 
bandage may be left off", and in the latter case, the stock 
may be budded in another place, provided the first operation 
was done in the month of July or early in August, as these are 
the two most preferable months for budding fruit trees in 
general. Budding is, however, often attended with success, 
if done early in September. 

Scallop Budding is performed by cutting fiom a small 
stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in length, 



OTiSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. W 

and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the same 
length ; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at top 
and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly 
bound with wet bass matting. This may be performed in 
the spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the month 
of July. The French practice this mode on Roses. 



GRAFTING. 

Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting 
it into another, in such a manner that both may unite closely, 
and become one tree. These shoots are called scions or 
grafts, and in the choice of them, and the mode of preparing 
some descriptions of stocks, the following hints will be 
useful : 

Those scions are best which are taken from the lateral or 
horizontal, rather than from the strong perpendicular shoots. 
The shoots of Apples^ &c., should be taken from healthy 
trees late in autumn, or before the buds begin to swell in the 
spring, and buried half of their length in the ground, or in 
'a cool and dry cellar ; there to remain until the season of 
grafting. 

For some descriptions of trees, the stocks are headed 
down near to the ground. In nurseries. Apples intended 
for standards are generally grafted about nine inches high 
only, allowing them to grow up standard high, and forming 
their heads upon the second year's shoots. In cider coun- 
tries, the stock is generally trained up standard high ; and 
when grown sufficiently large for the purpose, it is grafted 
at the height at which it is intended the head of the tree 
shall be formed. As respects trees in general, directions 
will be found under their appropriate heads. 

The business of grafting is generally performed in March 
and April : there are various methods of grafting, but the 
following are those most generally practised : 



28 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 

Cleft Grafting. This mode of grafting is generally 
practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter, 
and may be performed in the following manner : Let the 
head of the stock be carefully sawed off at a part free from 
knots, and the top pared smooth ; then with a thin knife 
split down the stock through the centre to the depth of about 
two inches, and insert a wedge to keep it open for the 
reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the 
form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part, 
and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion 
and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks 
require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four 
are inserted. When done, tie them firmly together with 
bass, and then cover the grafted part with well-prepared 
clay, in an oval form, and close it securely. 

Side Grafting. This mode is sometimes practised on 
those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are 
two ways in which it may be performed. 1st. The scion 
may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting, 
and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping ; 
■the scion being then adjusted as carefully as possible, it must 
be bound on and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being 
cut sloping, a cross-cut is to be made in the side of the tree 
on the top of a perpendicular slit ; the bark of a tree above 
the cross-cut must be pared down slanting to the wood, and 
the bark raised as in budding ; the scion being then inserted, 
it must be bound fast, and covered with clay. 

Splice, or Whip Grafting. This mode is often practised 
on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion and 
stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should consist 
of young wood of the former year's growth, may be cut to 
the length of about four inches. This and the stock are 
each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued. 
Tongueing consists in cutting a slit in the middle of the slope 
of the stock downward, and a corresponding slit in the scion 
upward ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides, 



OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 29 

if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then securely bound 
with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay or compo- 
sition. As soon as the scion and stock are completely united, 
the bass string may be removed. 

Saddle Grafting. The celebrated Mr. Knight practised 
this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper part 
of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two 
sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by 
slitting it upward, and paring out the middle part on each 
side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal 
size, the adjustment may be made perfect; but if unequal, 
one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a 
string of bass matting, and covered with composition or 
clay ; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect 
union has taken place. 

Root Grafting. This operation is often performed on 
Grape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual 
mode of cleft grafting. It is also performed on portions or 
pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scarce. 

Grafting by Approach. The trees, or shrubs, to be 
grafted in this mode, must be growing very near to those which. 
are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each 
tree, which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long 
sloping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre ; and the 
parts of each tree thus prepared are to be brought together, 
and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the 
bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then 
be covered with clay or composition; and when a complete 
union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated 
with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. 

It may be here observed that, as young grafted trees in 
the nursery progress in growth, the lower side-limbs should 
be gradually shortened, but not suddenly close-pruned ; 
they are essential for a time to strengthen the trunks, and 
to the upright and perfect formation of the tree. 

3* 



30 Forsyth's composition. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING 

COMPOSITION, GRAFTING CLAY, ETC., 

FOR USE ON FRUIT TREES. 

The British Parliament gave Mr. Forsyth a valuable pre- 
mium for the following important directions for making a 
composition for curing diseases, defects, and injuries in all 
kinds of fruit and forest trees, and the method of preparing 
the trees, and laying on the composition : 

Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a bushel of lime 
rubbish of old buildings (that from the ceilings of rooms is 
preferable), half a bushel of wood ashes, and a sixteenth 
part of a bushel of pit or river sand ; the three last articles 
are to be sifted fine before they are mixed ; then work them 
well together with a spade, and afterward with a wooden 
beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like fine plaster used 
for ceilings of rooms. 

The composition being thus made, care must be taken to 
prepare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away 
all the dead, decayed, and injured part, till you come at the 
fresh sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood very 
smooth, and rounding oif the edges of the bark with a draw- 
knife, or other instrument, perfectly smooth, which must be 
particularly attended to ; then lay on the plaster about an 
eighth of an inch thick, all over the part where the wood or 
bark has been so cut away, finishing off the edges as thin as 
possible. Then take a quantity of dry powder of wood 
ashes mixed with a sixth part of the same quantity of the 
ashes of burnt bones ; put it into a tin box with holes in the 
top, and shake the powder on the surface of the plaster till 
the whole is covered with it, letting it remain for half an 
hour to absorb the moisture ; then apply more powder, rub- 
bing it on gently with the hand, and repeating the applica- 
tion of the powder till the whole plaster becomes a dry, 
smooth surface. 



WASH FOR THE STEMS OF FRUIT TREES, ETC. 31 

If any of the composition be left for a future occasion, it 
should be kept in a tub or other vessel, and urine poured 
on it so as to cover the surface, otherwise the atmosphere 
will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application. 

When lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got, 
take pounded chalk or common lime, after having been 
slaked a month at least. 

As the growth of the trees will gradually effect the plas- 
ter, by raising up its edges next the bark, care should be 
taken, when that happens, to rub it over with the finger when 
occasion may require (which is best done when moistened 
by rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to prevent the 
air and wet penetrating into the wound. 

As the best way of using the composition is found, by 
experience, to be in a Hquid state, it must, therefore, be 
reduced to the consistence of a pretty thick paint, by mixing 
it up with a sufficient quantity of urine and soapsuds, and 
laid on with a painter's brush. The powder of wood ashes 
and burned bones is to be applied as before directed, patting 
it down with the hand. 

A Wash for the Stems of Fruit Trees. Take a peck of 
fresh cow-dung, half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of 
flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix 
the whole together with as much urine and soapsuds in a 
boiling state as will form the ingredients into a thick paint. 

This composition may be applied to the stems of young 
standard trees when planted out in the orchard, to prevent 
their being injured by the depredations of reptiles and insects, 

A Wash for the Stems and Branches of Fruit Trees. 
Take half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour r-f 
sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the 
whole together with as much boiling water as will form the 
ingi-edients into a thick paint. This composition is recom- 
mended to be applied to the stems and limbs of Apple trees 
which are infested with the ffhif/' Mealy Insect, having pre- 
viously removed the moss and loose bark by scraping them 



32 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 

off with a strong knife, or some other instrument adapted to 
the purpose. 

In using the composition, it will be most efficacious if 
applied in a warm state, or something more than blood heat. 

On young trees, strong vinegar will effectually destroy 
this insect, and I have for many years, in my own nursery, 
used it for this purpose ; but this would be too expensive to 
be applied when the trees are large. 

A solution of potash to wash the stems of the trees early in 
the spring, before the buds expand, will effectually destroy 
them. 

To MAKE Grafting Composition. Take equal parts of 
rosin and beeswax, and a little tallow ; melt these together 
and mix them ; then pour the composition into cold water, 
and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands 
until it attains a due consistence. It may be spread on 
brown paper, which being cut into strips of suitable size, is 
quickly applied, and in cool weather may be warmed by the 
breath, so as to become adhesive. 

Grafting Clay may be made in the following manner : 
Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter, 
cow manure, and good stiff clay ; add to this a portion of 
hair, and work it together in the same manner as masons 
mix their mortar. It should be well beaten and incorpo- 
rated several days before it is required to be used. 



ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE 
NURSERY. 

In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and attention 
are necessary; for, to have trees that do not answer the 
expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment. 
As the young gardener may need such directions as are cal- 
culated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour to 



CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 



33 



furnish them. Whatever species or varieties of fruit trees 
are wanted, choose those that are vigorous and straight and 
of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been grafted 
or budded, be careful to select such as have been v^orked 
on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old, crooked, 
stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees that are healthy, 
have always a smooth, clean, shining bark; such as are 
mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled bark, or are the least 
affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is discover- 
able in the young wood, and generally two or three mches 
above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectar- 
ine Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the lower 
part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if 
a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, and 
only one graft or bud should be upon each stock, for when 
there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so handsome 

a form. 

In some of the following articles, it will be seen that 
several descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety, 
even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or ■ 
five years' growth, after having been headed down, that are 
healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing wood close up 
to the centre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very 
well ; but great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and 
planting such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a 
portion of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, 
split, or damage them ; for want of attention to these points, 
trees often become diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding 
all due caution) any roots have been accidentally broken, 
split, or otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them 
be cut off; or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged 
or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a por- 
tion of the following composition be spread over the wound, 
in order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise 
injure the tree : To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add a 
little beeswax; let them be boiled together, and when cold 



34 CHOICE OF PEUIT TREES IN THE NURSERr. 

they may be used. The necessity of pruning-in and dress- 
ing mangled roots is more particularly required in trees of 
the stone fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, 
&c. ; for without the application of some remedy, they gum 
at the roots, which defect, if not counteracted, very materi- 
ally injures the upper part of the trees, which may become 
so affected as never to recover afterward ; therefore, great 
care should be taken not to occasion such injury ; and when 
accidents happen, all due caution and application are neces- 
sary to promote a healthy and vigorous growth. 

A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly 
corresponding to the branches ; at least, it should have one 
strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree, 
with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy 
roots are always smooth and clear ; their colour varies a lit- 
tle according to the kind of tree, but the older the roots are, 
the darker the colour is. 

After the tree is taken up, be careful, in conveying it to 
the place where it is to be planted, that the roots are not 
chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed to a consid- 
erable distance, they should be well guarded by straw, or 
otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised 
roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but 
if it be necessary to prune away any sound, good roots, such 
pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In 
pruning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear 
cut, and in a sloping direction ; the slope should be toward 
the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to 
lodge upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an 
advanced season in the spring of the year, it will be neces- 
sary to prune the tops ; and if trees are removed that have 
been trained three or four years, and are not properly sup- 
plied with young wood, they must be cut down either wholly 
or partially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In practising 
this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., always prune 
so as to have a leading shoot close below the cut, as it is 



CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 



35 



very rare they will push a shoot below, unless there be a 
lead. This attention is not so particularly required in the 
Pear, &c., as such will generally push forth shoots, although 
no leading ones are left ; but in all kinds, the younger the 
wood is, the more certain are shoots to be produced. If a 
tree that has been under training for one or two years, 
should only have one good strong leading shoot, and two or 
three weaker ones which do not proceed from it, let the 
weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten the strong 
one, from which a handsome head may afterward be formed. 
For farther directions as respects pruning or planting fruit 
trees, &c., the reader is referred to the preceding articles on 
these subjects ; and as respects any species of fruit in par- 
ticular, directions will be found under its distinct head. 

In order to assist the reader in making a judicious selection 
of fruit trees, I have furnished a short description of such 
species and varieties as are in great repute for every good 
quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully 
perused ' Prince's Pomulogical Manual,' ' Kenrick's Ameii- 
can Orchardist,' ' Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit 
Garden,' and ' Manning's Descriptive Catalogue of Fruits;' 
beside these important guides, I had the select catalogues 
of different nurserymen before me, and have chosen such 
only as have been most generally recommended. In doing 
this, I have had difficulties to contend with, of the nature of 
which, none but those who have duly considered the subject 
can form any idea. The facihty with which seedling plants 
are raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are 
apt to regard their own seedlings, have occasioned hundreds 
of names to appear in the various catalogues, which tend 
not a little to swell the large and increasing list of fruits. 

In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and 
other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to 
the same variety ; consequently, some fruits appear in the 
different catalogues under all the varied names ; and the 
patience and labour necessarily requisite for ascertaining 



3G CHOICE OP FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSJiJlY. 

which are leally distinct varieties, and which are most worthy 
of cultivation, are correspondingly great. 

To exemplify : Suppose from a catalogue of Pears the fol- 
lowing names should be selected by a person wishing to plant 
as many varieties in his orchard, namely, Brown Beurre, 
Beurre Gris, Beurre Rouge, Btierre Dove, Buerre tZ' Anjou^ 
Buerre d' Or, Buerre d' Jlmbleuse, Buerre d' Jimboise, Poire 
d' Amhoise, Isambert, Red Beurre, Golden Beurre, Beurre du 
Roi. White Doyenne, Doyenne Blanc, Doyenne, Beurre 
Blanc, Bonne-ante, Saint Michael, Carlisle, Citron de Septenu 
bre, Kaiserbirne, Poire a court quene. Poire de Limon^ Valen- 
cia, Poire de J\''eige, Poire de Seignetir, Poire Monsieur, While 
Beurre. Here is a list of twenty-nine kinds, as the pur- 
chaser supposes, but when the trees produce their fruit, he 
finds, to his great disappointment and mortification, that he 
has only two varieties, namely, the Brown Beurre and the 
White Doyenne. 

In making out the descriptive lists, I have generally 
adopted the names given in the catalogues of the most cele- 
brated nurserymen, as a heading; and have caused the 
synonymes, or names by which the same variety is known, 
or has been called, to be printed in italics ; thus, my lists of 
about four hundred varieties of the various species of fruit, 
will embrace what has been deemed by some as different 
"varieties, perhaps to the number of nearly two thousand. 



In preparing the following articles, the object has been 
to furnish information which would entertain, as well as 
instruct the reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have 
gleaned from those inexhaustible tieasures to horticulturists, 
Loudon's Encyclopaedia of Plants, and that of Gardening; 
but on account of the brevity necessarily observed through- 
out this work, it has been found impracticable to give many 
entire extracts; suffice it to say, that the historical facts are 
generally collected from these sources. 



APPLii. ^ 



APPLE. 

PoMMiER. Pyriis mains. 

The Apple being so closely connected with our wants and 
enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the catalogue of 
our fruits. The Apple Orchard is, in truth, the vineyard of 
our country ; and the delicious beverage that can be obtained 
from some of the varieties of this excellent fruit being cal- 
culated to cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the 
healthy, entitles it to high consideration. It is one of our 
oldest and best fruits, and has become completely naturalized 
to our soil ; none can be brought to so high a degree of per- 
fection with so little trouble ; and of no other are there, so 
many excellent varieties in general cultivation, calculated 
for almost every soil, situation, and climate, which our coun- 
try affords. 

The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great age : 
Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that 
were a thousand years old, and were still highly prolific ; but 
Kniaht considers two hundred years as the ordmary duration 
of a\ealthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and planted in a 
strong, tenacious soil. Speedily mentions a tree in an or- 
chard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, about sixty years 
old, with branches extending from seven to nine yards round 
the bole, which in some seasons produced upward of a hun- 
dred bushels of apples. _ ^ 
The Romans had only twenty-two varieties m Pliny s 
time. There are upward of fifteen hundred now cultivated 
in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under 
name; the catalogue of the Linnasan Botanic Garden at 
Flushing contains about four hundred ; and one of our en- 
terprising horticulturists, Mr. WiUiam Coxe, of Burlington, 
New Jersey, enumerated one hundred and thiity-three kinds 
cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They are 
usually divided into dessert, baking, and cider fruits: the 



38 APPLE, 

first, highly flavoured ; the second, such as fall, or become 
mellow in baking or boiling; and the third, austere, and 
generally fruit of small size. Besides this division. Apples 
are classed as pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat 
pear-shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles 
or white-skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, and some are 
denominated burknots. 

The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many sorts 
by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by grafting 
on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, and for 
dwarfing, on stocks of the Quince or Paradise Apple. All 
the principal varieties are cultivated as standards in the 
orchard, and should be planted from thirty to forty feet from 
each other, or from any othei' spreading trees, in order that 
the sun and air may have their due influence in maturing the 
fruit. 

Many of the du'arf kinds may be introduced into the 
Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf standards. 
An Apple Orchard may be planted at any time after the 
trees are two years old from the graft ; and as trees from 
young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or 
twelve years old, they will bear re«ioving with care at any 
time within that period. 

Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior varieties by 
being headed down to standard height : most commonly, in 
very old subjects, the branches only are cut within a foot or 
two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft 
manner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the 
mode of bearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, 
or short robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, 
which spring from the younger branches of two or more 
years' growth, appearing at first at the extremity, and ex- 
tending gradually to the side : the same bearing branches 
and fruit spurs continue many years fruitful. 

Pruning. — As, from the mode of bearing, Apple trees do 
not admit of shortening the general bearers, it should only 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 39 

be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees have not the 
most desirable form when three or four years old, they should 
be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading branches. 
In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut, 
unless in cases of decay ; but all superfluous cross branches 
and dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi- 
cated. Espaliers require a summer and winter pruning. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

SUMMER FRUIT. 

American Summer Pearmain, Early Summer Pearmain. This ap- 
ple is of medium size and oblong form; its colour bright red on the sunny 
side, and on the opposite side yellow, streaked or blotched with red ; the 
flesh is very juicy, tender, fine flavoured, and excellent. It ripens early in 
August, and is good either for the dessert or for cooking. Tree a good 
bearer. 

Bengni. Fruit of medium size, form round and regular; the flesh yel- 
low, high flavoured, and excellent ; it ripens in July and August. " The 
tree bears well," says Mr. Manning, "and should be found in every good 
collection." 

Early Bough, Siveet Bough. The size of this fruit varies from me- 
dium to large ; its colour pale yellow ; its form oblong ; its skin smooth ; 
flesh tender, juicy, sweet, and excellent. Ripens early in August. 

Early Crofton. or Irish Peach Apple. An Irish apple, of the middle 
size and flattish shape; of an olive green colour, much variegated with 
red ; has a rich snccharine flavour ; is much esteemed for the dessert, and 
is excellent also as a sauce apple. Ripens in August. The tree grows 
well, and is not apt to canker. 

Early Harvest, Prince's Yellow Harvest, Pomme d'ete, July Pippin. 
A very early apple, of medium size ; bright straw colour ; flesh white and 
tender; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The tree bears young, and makes 
a fine garden espalier ; ripening its fruit in July and August. 

Early Red Juneating, Red Margaret, Early Striped Junealing, 
Strawberry, Eve Apple of the Irish. Fruit below the middle size; skin 
greenish yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red ; flesh white, 
juicy, breaking, sub-acid, very rich and agreeable. Ripens early in August. 

Porter. This variety, says Mr. Manning, originated on the farm of the 
Rev. Samuel Porter, of Sherburne, Massachusetts. The fruit is large, ol 
oblong shape; the skin a bright yellow, with a red biush ; the flesh fine, 
sprightly, and agreeable. Ripens in September and October. 

Red Astracan. This beautiful apple is of medium size, and roundish ; 
the skin is dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum ; the flesh is 
white, tender, and somewhat acid. At perfection early in August. 



40 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

Red Quahendon, Devonshire Quarenden. Sack Apple. A much es- 
teemed Devonshire apple ; of medium size ; skin of a uniform deep rich 
crimson, with numerous green dots intermixed ; flesh of a brisk, pleasant, 
and peculiar flavour. A very desirable dessert apple: from August to No- 
vember ; tree very productive. 

Summer Pippin. Pie Apple. This fruit, in size and shape, resembles 
the Fall f^ippin ; it differs in having a little more red on the sunny side, 
and in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular 
apple in New Jersey. 

Summer Queen. A large oblong apple, striped with red on a yellow 
ground ; the flesh is yellow, very high flavoured, and excellent. The tree 
is of vigorous growth, says Mr. Manning, a great bearer, and ripens its fruit 
in August. 

Summer Rose, Harvest Apple. A very beautiful and excellent fruit, of 
moderate size and roundish form ; the skin is yellow, striped and mottled 
with red ; the flesh is sweet, juicy, and fine : in July and August ; tree a 
great bearer. 

Williams's Early, Williams's Favourite Bed. This apple originated 
in Roxbury, Mass. ; it is of medium size ; oblong form ; the skin a bright 
and deep red ; the flavour pleasant and agreeable. The tree is a great 
bearer, and its fruit commands a good price in the Boston markets: in Au- 
gust and September. 

AUTUMN FRUIT. 

Alexander, Emperor Alexander, Apnrta. Fruit very larg-e, somewhat 
cordate, smallest at the crown ; of a greenish yellow colour, striped or mar- 
bled with red ; pulp tender, sweet, rich, and aromatic : ripens in October, 
and lasts till Christmas. 

American Nonpareil, Doctor Apple. A beautiful apple of medium 
size and roundish form ; its colour yellow, streaked and stained with red 
on the sunny side ; flesh firm, juicy, and agreeable. A very fine market 
apple in October and November. Tree a great bearer. 

Boxford. a very superior variety, says Mr. Manning ; which was first 
cultivated at Boxford, Massachusetts. Fruit roundish, of medium size; 
skin striped with red and yellow ; the flesh, yellow, rich, and good. The 
tree is a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in October. 

Cumberland Spice. A fine dessert fruit, large, rather oblong; of a 
pale yellow colour, clouded near the base ; the flesh white, tender, and of 
fine flavour. It ripens in autumn, and will keep till February. 

DowNTON Pippin, Elton Golden Pippin, Knighfs Golden Pippin. The 
Downton Golden Pippin is a most abundant bearer, and the fruit extreme- 
ly well adapted for market; it is rather larger than the common Golden 
Pippin; skin nearly smooth ; yellow, sprinkled with numerous specks; 
flesh yellowish, cri=p, with a brisk, rich, subacid juice ; specific gravity 
10.79. Ripe in October and November, and will keep good till Christmas. 

Drap d'Or of France. Clotti of Gold. This apple is very large and 
handsome; its form glubular ; its colour a fine yellow, with dark specks; 
its flesh white, firm, and rich flavoured. The tree bears well, and should 
be found in every good collection. Fruit in perfection from September to 
November. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 41 

Fall Harvey. This is a large and handsome fruit, the shape flat, the 
skin light yellow, with a bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, firm, rich, and high 
flavoured. Mr. Manning considered it "the finest Fall and Early Winter 
variety; a good bearer, and deserving extensive cultivation." 

Fall Pippin, Cobbetfs Fall Pippin, Remnete Blanche D'Espagne, 
D'Espagne, Be Rateau, Concombre Ancien. WhUe Spanish Reinette, Ca- 
muesar. This extremely valuable variety stands in the first class of au- 
tumn fruits, and is very large ; its form is roundish oblong ; skin smooth, 
yellowish green, tinged with orange ; flesh yellowish, crisp, and tender, 
with a very rich, sugary juice. It ripens in October, and keeps well as a 
fall apple. 

Fameuse, Pomme de Neige. A Canadian apple of great beauty ; in size 
medium ; skin light green, stained with bright red ; flesh white, very ten- 
der ; juice saccharine, with a musky perfume : ripe in October, and will 
keep good till Chri.stmas. Tree hardy and productive. 

Golden Russet, Aromatic Russet. A dessert apple, of medium size, 
and of a pale copper-coloured russet ; in great repute for its rich saccharine, 
aromatic, and slightly musky flavour. The tree is hardy and very produc- 
tive : in October and November. 

Gkavenstein. Fruit rather large and compressed ; of a yellowish green 
colour, striped with red ; flesh crisp, and high flavoured : ripens in October, 
and lasts till April. This variety originated in Germany, and is considered 
the best dessert apple in that country. 

Kenricic's Red Autumn. A native apple of largish dimensions, raised 
by John Kenrick, Esq., of Newton, Massachusetts; colour pale green in 
the shade, but bright red next the sun, and streaked with deeper red ; the 
flesh white, stained more or less with red ; tender, juicy, and rich, with an 
agreeable sub-acid flavour: ripe in October. 

KiLHAM Hill. This apple, one of the most saleable varieties in Sa- 
lem markets, originated on the farm of Dr. Kilham, in Wenham, Essex 
county, Massachusetts ; the size is above medium ; form a little oblong ; the 
skin yellow, striped with red ; the flesh is yellow and high flavoured : from 
September to November. 

Monmouth Pippin. This variety originated in Monmouth county, New 
Jersey. It is above medium size, of greenish colour, striped with red ; flesh 
firm, and of pleasant flavour. It is considered one of the most saleable 
and productive varieties of the season ; and will keep good till after Christ- 
mas. 

Orange Sweeting, Yellow Sweeting, Golden Sweeting. This variety 
is much cultivated near Hartford, Connecticut, for the Boston, Providence, 
and Philadelphia markets ; the fruit is rather large, flattened at its base and 
summit ; the colour yellow, or orange ; flesh very sweet and excellent : from 
September to December. 

Red Ingestric A first-rate dessert apple, of medium size, and bright 
yellow colour, deeply tinged with red ; raised by Mr. Knight, President of 
the London Horticultural Society. The tree bears well in America, and 
ripens its fruit in October, which is very rich, juicy, high flavoured, and 
grateful to the palate. 

Red and Green Sweeting, Prince's Large Red and Green Sweeting. 
The fruit is of oblong shape ; colour green, striped with red ; the pulp is 
very sweet, tender, and of delicious flavour : from September to November. 

4* 



42 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

Skek no Farther, Rambo, or Romanife. This apple is much culti- 
vated in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Its form is flat, resembling the 
Vandervere in appearance, but is a more juicy fruit ; the skin pale yellow, 
streaked with red; flesh tender and sprightly during the autumn months. 

Stroat. Sfraat. A fine autumn apple, introduced by the late Jesse 
Buel, Esq., of Albany ; in size medium ; form rather oblong ; skin yellow- 
ish green ; flesh yellow and tender ; juice rich and lively : in use from Sep- 
tember to December. 

Yellow Ingestric- A beautiful apple, raised by Mr. Knight. President 
of the London Horticultural Society. The size is small, form round and 
regular ; the colour of the skin golden yellow, with some black spots ; the 
flesh yellow, firm, and delicate. The tree is an abundant bearer, and ripens 
its fruit in October. The late Judge Buel considered this variety as likely 
to rival the Lady apple as a fashionable fruit. 

York Russeting. A very larsie russety apple, well known about Bos- 
ton. Its form is rather oblong ; its flesh pleasant and agreeably acid ; an 
excellent apple : from October to December. 

WINTER FRUIT. 

JEsopus Spitzenburg. A beautiful apple ; large and oval ; of red co- 
Jour, covered with numerous white specks ; the flesh is yellowish ; slightly 
acid, and of the finest flavour : ripens in October, and continues good till 
February. 

Baldwin. No apple in the Boston markets is more popular than this ; 
it is rather above medium size ; its form round ; its colour bright red, 
streaked with yellow ; its flesh is juicy, rich, saccharine, with a most agree- 
able acid flavour. The tree bears fruit abundantly, which ripens in Novem- 
ber, and keeps till February or March. 

Barcelona Pearmain, Speckled Golden Reinette, Reinette Rouge, 
Reinctte Rousse, Reinette den Carmes, Glace Rnuge, Kleiner Casseler Re- 
inette. This variety is said to be a very produftive and excellent dessert 
apple; fruit of medium size; oval, not angular; colour brownish yellow 
in the shade, deep red next the sun ; flesh firm, yellowish, with a rich aro- 
matic agreeable acid: from November till February. 

Beauty or the West. A large, oblate, beautiful fruit, of yellow and 
red colour ; its flesh juicy, rich, saccharine, and firm. A good marketable 
apple from November until March. 

Bell Flower. A very large and beautiful apple ; its colour bright yel- 
low, with an occasional blush on the sunny side; its form oblong ; the flesh 
tender, juicy, rich, and finely flavoured, and is alike excellent for the dessert 
and for cooking. It ripens early in November, and will keep all the win- 
ter. It is a valuable market fruit. 

Blenheim Pippin, Woodstock Pippin, Blenheim Orange. Fruit large, 
roundish, of a yellowish colour, tinged with red next the sun ; pulp sweet 
and high flavoured : ripe in November, and keeps till March: a very supe- 
rior dessert apple. 

Blue Pearmain This variety is well Known about Boston as a large 
apple, of red colour, covered with a tense blue bloom, and of a delicious 
flavour ; good as a dessert or for cooking: from October to January. The 
tree grows strong, and is very productive. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 43 

Court Pendu, Capendu. Court Faidu Plat, Gurnon's Apple. An es- 
timable dessert apple, of medium size ; in shape round, depressed ; the co- 
lour yellow, a good deal covered with full red ; it is of a high saccharine 
flavour and of close consistence ; the fruit keeps till February or March. 
The tree grows upright, and bears well. 

Danvers Wintkr Sweet, Epses Sweet, Danvers Sweeting. This va- 
riety originated at Danvers, near Salem, Massachusetts; fruit of medium 
size ; a little oblong ; skin yellow, slightly tinged with red ; lis flesh sweet 
and excellent cooked, or as a dessert: from November to April. The tree is 
a great bearer, and of rapid growth- 

DoMiNE, Domini. A first rate winter apple, of medium size and green- 
ish yellow colour, clouded with brown blotches ; the flesh is juicy, tender, 
and excellent. Tree a great bearer. 

Golden Ball, Golde7i Apple. A beautiful and superior fruit from the 
State of Maine ; of large size and golden yellow colour ; flesh firm ; juice 
very rich, sweet, aromatic, with a good proportion of acid. It will keep 
good from November to April. 

Golden Harvev, Brandy Apple. A dessert apple, not larger than the 
Golden Pippin ; colour light yellow, with a flush of red, and embroidered 
with a roughish russet. It is called Brandy Apple from the superior spe- 
cific strength of its juice, being 10.85 ; it is of remarkably close texture, 
very rich in flavour, and will keep till April or May. 

Green Sweet, Green Sweeting, Green Winter Sweet. This apple is 
much cultivated in Massachusetts. It is of medium size; the skin dull 
green, approaching to yellow ; the flesh very sweet and delicious. It pos- 
sesses the valuable propprly of retaining its soundness till May or June. 

Hubbardston Nonesuch. A large apple of globular form ; red and 
yellow colour, streaked and blotched; the flesh is juicy and of excellent 
flavour : from December to March. The tree is of vigorous growth, a great 
bearer, and worthy of extensive cultivation. 

Jonathan, King Philip, New Spitzenburgh, Philip Rick. A winter 
fruit very generally admired in the State of New York. It is of medium 
eize ; the skin of pale yellow and bright red colour, occasionally tinged with 
purple ; flesh tender, juice abundant, and highly flavoured. This fruit will 
keep till May. 

Lady Apple, Pomme d'Api. Fruit small, flat; of pale yellow colour, 
tinp,ed with a deep red on the side; flesh crisp, sprightly, and pleasant: 
ripens in November, and continues till April. It is a very saleable fruit 
on account of its great beauty. 

Ladies' Sweeting, Winter Sweeting. This apple is above medium 
size; conical ; skin yellow, streaked, and mottled with red ; flesh juicy, 
sweet, and high flavoured : from November to May. 

Lemon Pippin. An old and much esteemed dessert apple ; of medium 
size and oval shape, much like a lemon both in form and colour, having a 
firm texture, brisk flavour, and plenty of acid: from October to March. 
Tree handsome, and a great bearer. 

Maiden's Blush, Hawthornden. Fruit large, roundish ; skin, pale 
greenish yellow, tinged with blush ; the pulp is white, tender, juicy, and 
acid ; and the fruit is good for the table as well as for all kitchen purposes : 
in Septenilier and October. The tree is hardy and prolific. 

Malcahle, Charles Apple, Mela Carta, Poitii/ie Finale. A far-famed 



44 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 

fruit. In the climate of Italy, this is supposed to be the best apple in the 
world. It is cultivated extensively in the territories of Genoa, as an article 
of export and commerce to Nice, Barcelona, Cadiz, and Marseilles. The 
fruit is rather large, its form inclining to globular. Its beautiful wa\en skin 
is a little marbled with a very faint green near the eye ; its colour in the 
shade is a pale yellow, tinged with flaming crimson next the sun ; the flesh 
"\s white, tender, delicate, sweet, with the fragrant perfume of roses. It 
ripens in September, and will keep till spring. 

Menageke. Mr. Manning pronounced this to be the largest apple he 
had seen ; the form is flat like a large English turnip ; the skin of a light 
yellow; the flesh pleasant, but more adapted to the kitchen than the des- 
sert : from October to February. It bears well trained as a dwarf 

MiNisTEE. A native apple of large size, and oblong shape ; the skin a 
light greenish yellow, striped with bright red ; flesh yellow, ligtit, high fla- 
voured, and excellent. Mr. Manning considered this as one of the finest 
fruits that New England ever produced. It ripens in November, and will 
keep till after Christmas. 

Monstrous Vi-ppin, Baltimore, Gloria Mundi, Ox Apple. Fruit of enor- 
mous size, often weighing twenty-five ounces or more; of a pale yellowish 
green and blush colour, with white spots ; and of a sprightly flavour ; ex 
cellent for cooking : ripens in October, and continues fit for use till January 

Murphy. This apple in appearance resembles the Blue Pearmain ; the 
shape is more oblong, the size not so larse ; the skin pale red, streaked or 
blotched with darker red, and covered with blue bloom ; flesh white, tender, 
and good. Raised from seed by Mr. Murphy, and introduced to notice by 
Mr. Manning. 

Newtown Pippin. American Newtown Pippin, Yellow Newtoion Pip- 
pin. This variety, when perfectly matured, is considered by some the finest 
apple in our country ; its skin is green, changing to an olive yellow at ma- 
turity, having a thin russet covering the greatest part of the base ; flesh 
pale yellow and firm ; juice saccharine, and possessing a rich and highly 
aromatic flavour: from December to April. 

Newtown Spitzenburg, Ma^cAtes. A beautiful apple of medium size; 
skin streaked, and tinged with red and yellow; flesh yellow, rich, and high- 
ly flavoured : from October till February. 

Norfolk Beaufin. Fruit middling size, flattish, of a deep red and pale 
Kreen colour ; the flesh is firm and savoury ; the tree hardy, upright, and 
a good bearer ; fruit excellent for use in the kitchen, and highly esteemed 
for the dessert. It ripens in November, and is frequently to be obtained 
in Endand in July following. 

Ortley Pippin, Ortley Apple, Vandyne, Woolman's Long of Prince. A 
fruit very much resembling the Yellow Newtown Pippin, but a little more 
oval ; skin olive yellow at maturity, partially covered with pink and rus- 
set ; flesh yellow, crisp, and breaking; very juicy, with the same pine-apple 
flavour which distinguishes the Newtown Pippin : good from November to 
April. 

Pennock's Red Winter, Pelican. Fruit very large and compressed ; 
of deep red colour, streaked with yellow ; flesh tender, juicy, and of a 
sweet and pleasant flavour : ripens in November, and will keep good till 
^. It is \x evry popular apple in the Philadelphia markets. 

KIN Sweet, Ramsdel's Red Pumpkin Sweet. A beautiful fruit, 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 



45 



over medium size, round, inclined to oblong; of a dark red colour, covered 
with dense blue bloom ; flesh tender, rich, and sweet. It ripens in Novem- 
ber, and keeps till January. The trees bear prodigious crops. 

Rhode Island Grkening. Fruit large and depressed; skm at ma- 
turity greenish yellow ; flesh slightly acid, and of the finest flavour : ripens 
in November, and continues till April. A most estimable apple for cooking 
as well as for the dessert. r ir i. 

RiBsroKE Pippin, Formosa Pippin, Traver's Apple, Glory of YorK. 
Fruit of medium size, roundish, and partially depressed ; of a pale yellow 
colour, tinged with red ; pulp slightly acid, and of fine flavour: ripens m 
November, and continues till April- It is one of the most popular dessert 
apples in England. . 

RoxBURY Russet, Boston Russet, Pineapple Russet. This variety is 
cultivated extensively in Massachusetts for the Boston markets, and for ex- 
portation. The fruit is of medium size ; of a fine yellow russet colour, 
mixed with dull red ; flesh white, juicy, rich, sub-acid, and excellent ; for 
use in winter, and will keep till June. 

SwAAR Apple. A much celebrated winter table fruit in some parts of 
New York and New Jersey ; it is a large apple of uncommon flavour and 
richness ; skin of a greenish yellow, tinged with blush. The tree is very 
productive, and highly deserving cultivation in every collection of fine fruit 
Good till March. 

Vandevere. An apple of medium size, the form flat; skin pale red, 
with rough yellowish blotches ; flesh yellow and tender ; juice plentiful, 
rich, and sprightly : from October till January. 

Western Russet, Putnam's Russet. This variety is extensively cul- 
tivated in Muskingum county, Ohio, where it is esteemed above all others 
of their fine winter varieties. It is above the middle size, of a greenish 
yellow colour, covered with russety blotches, and will keep all the winter. 

White Winter Calville, Calville Blanche d'Hiver, Bonnet Carre. 
This fruit is large ; its colour at maturity bright yellow, tinged with red ; 
its form rather flat; flesh white, tender, and pleasant : from November to 
March. Tree an abundant bearer. 

Wine 4.pple, Hay's Winter, Large Winter- Red, Fine Winter. A va- 
riety highly esteemed in the Philadelphia markets; the fruit is large; of 
bri-ht red colour, striped with yellow, the stalk end russety ; its flesh is 
rich, aromatic, and pleasant: from October to February. The tree bears 
young and abundantly. 

CIDER FRUIT. 

Camptield, or Newark Sweeting. This apple is next in reputation, 
as a cider fruit, to the Harrison, and is often mixed with that apple in equal 
proportions when ground ; it is of the middle size, skin smooth, of red and 
yellow colour ; the flesh is white, firm, sweet, and rich. 

Granniwinkle. Fruit of moderate size, rather oblong ; the skin a dark 
red, somewhat rough ; flesh yellow, sweet, and rich. It is commonly 
mixed with the Harrison for making cider of a superior quality : ripe in 

November. , . . j 

H ewe's Virginia Crab. From this fruit is obtained the celebrated 

Crab Cider , it is of small size, nearly round ; skin of a dull red, strealipc} 



46 APRICOT. 

with greenish yellow ; the flesh is fibrous and astringent ; juice acid and 
austere. 

Harrison, Harrison's Newark. This frui' is much celebrated in New 
Jersey as a cider apple ; it is somewhat ovate, below the middle size ; the 
skin is yellow, with black spots ; flesh yellow, firm, rich, and sprightly. 
Ten bushels will make a barrel of exquisite cider, from which may be taken 
fourteen quarts of distilled spirits. 



APRICOT. 
Abricotier. Primus Armeniaca. 

The fruit of the Apricot is next in esteem to the Peach, 
and as it lipens three or four weeks earlier, should be more 
generally cultivated. The flowers appear in April, on the 
shoots of the preceding year, and on spurs of two or more 
years' growth, and the fruit ripens in July and August. The 
London Horticultural Society's catalogue describes fifty-four 
sorts, and Messrs. Prince have eighteen in their catalogue ; 
besides these, is the Peach Apricot, a large fruit, supposed 
to be a hybrid between a Peach and an Apricot. 

Our enterprising fellow citizen, Mr. William Shaw, has 
succeeded for many years in maturing large quantities of this 
excellent fruit on standards ; but they ripen best when trained 
against close fences. In England some of the varieties are 
cultivated as standards and espaliers ; but they seldom bear 
much fruit under ten or twelve years, and then the fruit is 
abundant and of the finest flavour. They are commorily cul- 
tivated as wall trees, in an east or west aspect ; for if they 
are planted to face the south, the great heat causes them to 
be mealy before they are eatable. New varieties are pro- 
cured from seed, as in the Peach, and approved sorts are 
perpetuated by budding on plum stocks, &c. 

The varieties of the Apricot, in general, bear chiefly upon 
the young shoots of last year, and casually upon small spurs 
rising on the two or three years' old fruit branches. The 
Moor Park bears chiefly on the last year's shoots, and on 



APRICOT. 



47 



close spurs formed on the two year old wood. The bearing 
shoots emit the blossom buds immediately from the eyes 
along the sides, and the buds have a round and swelling ap- 
pearance. 

Apricot trees may be planted at any time after the head 
is formed : some head them down in the nursery bed, and 
remove them to their destined places when five or six years 
old. 

Standards will require only occasional pruning, to regulate 
such branches as may be too numerous, too extended, or 
cross formed, and to remove any casually unfruitful parts 
and dead wood ; but the regular branches, forming the head 
of the tree, should not be shortened unless necessary. 

The general culture of the wall Apricots comprehends a 
summer and winter course of regulation, by pruning and 
training. The fan method is generally adopted, but some 
prefer training horizontally. With young trees some con- 
trive to fill the wall by heading down twice a year. 

The winter, or early spring management, comprehends a 
general regulation both of the last year's shoots and the 
older branches. A general supply of the most regularly 
^ituated young shoots must be every where retained, foi suc- 
cessional bearers the ensuing year. Cut out such branches 
as are not furnished with competent supplies of young wood, 
or with fruit spurs, to make room for training the most pro- 
mising branches retained. Generally, observe in this pruning 
to retain one leading shoot at the end of each branch ; either 
a naturally placed terminal, or one formed by cutting (where 
a vacancy is to be furnished) into a proper leader. Let the 
shoots retained for bearers be moderately shortened ; reduce 
strong shoots in the least proportion — cutting off" one fourth 
or less of their length ; from weak shoots take away a third, 
and sometimes a half This shortening will conduce to the 
pioduction of a good supply of lateral shoots the ensuing 
summer, from the lower and middle placed eyes ; whereas 
without it, the new shoots would proceed mostly from the 



48 APRICOTS. 

top, and leave the under part of the principal branches naked, 
and the lower and middle parts of the tree unfurnished with 
proper supplies of bearing wood. Never prune below all 
the blossom buds, except to provide wood, in which case 
cut nearer to the origin of the branch. As, in these trees, 
small fruit spurs, an inch or two long, often appear on some 
of the two or three years' branches furnished with blossom 
buds, these spurs should generally be retained for bearing. 
As each tree is pruned, lay in the branches and shoots from 
three to six inches distance, and nail them straight or close 
to the fence or wall. 

The summer pruning is principally to regulate the young 
shoots of the same year. In the first place, take off close 
all the irregular foremost shoots, taking care to retain a com- 
petent supply of close side shoots, with a good leader to each 
parent branch. Continue these mostly at full length all the 
summer, regularly trained in, to procure a sufficiency to 
choose from in the general winter pruning, for new bearers 
the next year. 

If the summer regulation commences early, while the 
shoots are quite yo-ung, and, as it were, herbaceous, those 
improper to retain may be detached with the finger and 
thumb ; but when of firmer growth, they must be removed 
with the knife. If any very strong shoots rise in any part 
where the wood is deficient, they may be topped in June, 
which will cause them to produce several laterals the same 
year, eligible for training in, to supply the vacancy. 

Sometimes the fruit is much too numerous, if not destroyed 
by insects, often growing in clusters ; in which case thin 
them while in a young, green state, leaving the most pro- 
minent fruit singly, at three or four inches distance, or from 
about two to six on the respective shoots, according to their 
strength. The Apricots so thinned off, and the first princi- 
pal green fruit, are very fine for tarts. 



CESCEiPTIVE LIST OF APRICOTS. 49 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APRICOTS. 

Breda, Abricot de HoUande, Amande Aveline, Rnyal Persian. Fruit 
medium size, of a round form, and deep yellow colour ; the pulp is soft 
and juicy ; the tree is a great bearer, and the fruit, which ripens early in 
Aug:ust, is in great esteem. 

Brussels. Highly esteemed for its productiveness ; fruit medium size, 
inclining to an oval form ; of a yellow colour, and next the sun covered 
with numerous dark spots; the flesh is of a greenish yellow colour, of a 
brisk flavour, and not liable to become mealy : ripens in August. 

Blotched Leaved Roman, Blotch Leaved Turliey, Variegated Turkey, 
Abricot Macule of the French- Fruit middle size, in form slightly com- 
pressed, inclining to oval ; skin dull straw colour, with orange or red spots ; 
flesh pale straw colour, soft, dry, rather mealy ; kernel rather bitter. A very 
hardy and productive variety ; ripe towards the end of July. 

Early Orange, Royal George, Royal Orange. The fruit of a medium 
size ; of a deep yellow colour, spotted with red or dark purple next the 
sun ; flesh deep orange, succulent, and well flavoured ; not perfectly a free 
stone : ripens early in August. 

Hkmskirke. Fruit middle sized, roundish, slightly compressed; of a 
bright yellow colour; flesh tender, juicy, with a particularly rich, delicate 
flavour, resembling that of the Green Gage Plum : ripe in July. 

Large Early Apkicot, Abricot Gros Precoce, Abricot de St. Jean, 
Abricot de St. Jean rouge, Abricot gros d' Alexundrie. Fruit somewhat 
oblong ; skin downy, orange, spotted with red ; flesh orange, juicy, and 
rich, parting from the stone. This is the earliest of all apricots ; in France 
it has ripened by midsummer day, whence its name of A. de St. Jean. 

MooRPARK, Ansonh, Temple's, Dunmore's Breda. The tree is of vigo- 
rous growth, and extraordinarily productive ; the fruit is very large; of a 
bright gold colour, or orange, with dark spots next the sun ; flesh orange 
colour, melting, and excellent : ripens early in September. 

MuscH, Musch. A fine new variety from Persia; in shape round ; of a 
deep yellow colour, and remarkable for the transparency of its pulp, through 
which the stone is visible ; the flesh is very fine and agreeable : ripens in 
July. 

Peach Apricot, Abricot Peche, Abricot de Nancy, Imperial Ansons. 
This is a first-rate fruit ; form variable, generally flattened ; skin slightly 
downy ; fawn colour next the sun, tinged with reddish spots or points ; 
pulp yellow, melting, juice abundant, high flavoured, and excellent : ripens 
early in August. 

Purple. Alexandrian Abricot, Abr,icot An goumois, Abricot Violet, Blncls 
Apricot. A small, globular, downy fruit, a little oblong; of a pale red co- 
lour, becoming deep red or purple next the sun ; flesh pale red, but orange 
next the stone ; a little acid, but good : ripens in August. 

Red Masculine, Abricot Precoce, Abricot Hatif Masque, Early Mascu- 
line. This is an old and very early variety ; the fruit of which is small, 
of a roundish form, and greenish red colour ; the pulp is tender ; the tree 
a sood bearer, and the fruit esteemed for its earliness and tart taste ; ripens 
in July. 

5 



^0 ALMOND. 

RoTAL, Abricnt Royale. This fruit is next in size to the Moovparlr 5 
rather oval, compressed ; of dull yellow colour, slightly red ; flesh pale 
orange, firm, juicy, sweet, and high flavoured, with a slight acid : ripens 
early in August. 

TvRKT^y, Large Tn7-key. A superior apricot ; fruit of a medium size; 
deep yellow colour, with red blotches next the sun; form globular; flesh 
firm, juicy, rich, and excellent: ripe in July and August. 

White Aphicot, While Masculine, Abricot Blanc. Fruit, in size and 
figure, similar to the Red Masculine. Skin nearly white; flesh white, very 
delicate ;. juice sweet, with an agreeable peach-like flavour. Ripe in July. 



ALMOND. 
Amandier. Jlmygdalus. 

Although Almonds are not much cultivated in this part 
of our country, they are entitled to notice. The species are 
fruit trees, or ornamental trees and shrubs, both much es- 
teemed for the gay colour and early appearance of their 
flowers ; these vary in their colour from the fine blush of 
the apple blossom to a snowy whiteness. The chief obvious 
distinction is in the fruit, which is flatter, with a coriaceous 
covering, instead of the rich pulp of the Peach and Necta- 
rine, opening spontaneously when the kernel is ripe. It is 
a native of Barbary, China, and most eastern countries. 
There are twelve sorts described in the catalogue of the 
Linnaean Botanic Garden at Flushing ; some of which are 
represented as new varieties from France and Italy, where 
they are cultivated extensively for their fruit. 

In France, they have above a dozen species or varieties, 
besides a hybrid, called the Almond Peach. The common 
and bitter Almond are only to be distinguished by the taste 
of the kernels of their fruit, which is the only part used. 
The tender-shelled is in the greatest esteem, and next, the 
Sweet, and Jordan. The bitter cuticle or skin of Almonds is 
taken off by immersion in boiling water. 

The sweet Almond and other varieties are used as a des- 
sert in a green or imperfectly ripe, and also in a lipe or 



CHERRY. 51 

dried state. They are much used in cookery, confectionary, 
perfumery, and medicine. 

The Ahnond is propagated by seed for varieties, or for 
stocks ; and by budding on its own, or on Plum stocks, for 
continuing varieties. The Almond tree bears chiefly on the 
young wood of the previous year, and in part upon small 
spurs or minor branches ; it is therefore pruned like the 
Apricot and Peach, and its culture in other respects is the 
same. 



CHERRY. 
Cerisier. Prumis cerasus. 

The Cherry, of the cultivated varieties, is said to have 
been first introduced into Italy in the year 73, from a town in 
Pontus, in Asia, called Cerasus, whence its specific name ; 
and it was introduced into Britain one hundred and twenty 
years afterward. 

The Romans had eight species in Pliny's time, red, black, 
tender-fleshed, hard-fleshed, small bitter-flavoured, and heart'^ 
shaped. There are now upward of two hundred in cultiva- 
tion. The French divide their Cherries into griottes, or 
tender-fleshed; bigarreau, or heart-shaped ; and guignes, or 
small fruit. The fruit of many varieties is somewhat heart- 
shaped, whence they are called ox-heart, white-heart, black- 
heart, &c.; why some sorts are called dukes, is not so ob- 
vious. The morello cherry is very different from the other 
varieties, bearing almost exclusively from the preceding 
year's wood, and the pulp of the fruit having the consistence 
and flavour of the fungi called morel, whence the name. 
The Chinese Cherry is valuable on account of its bearing an 
excellent fruit, and ripening it in forcing-houses. 

Cherries are grafted or budded on seedlings from Cherry 
stones, and from seedlings of the red and black mazzard. 
For dwarfing they are worked on the morello, or perfumed 



52 CHERRY. 

Cherry ; the latter is preferred in Holland. In this country, 
the budding system is more frequently practised on the va- 
rious species of stone fruit than grafting. 

Cherry trees, in general, produce the fruit upon small 
spurs or studs, from half an inch to two inches in length, 
which proceed from the sides and ends of the two year, 
three year, and older branches ; and as new spurs continue 
shooting from the extreme parts, it is a maxim in pruning 
both standards and espaliers, not to shorten the bearing 
branches when there is room for their regular extension. 

The Morello is in some degree an exception, as it bears 
principally on the shoots of the preceding year, the fruit 
proceeding immediately from the eyes of shoots; and bears 
but casually, and in a small degree, on close spurs formed 
on the two-year-old wood, and scarcely ever on wood of the 
third year ; therefore, in pruning, leave a supply of young 
shoots on all the branches from the origin to the extremity 
of the tree, for next year's bearers. 

All kinds of Cherry trees, except the Morello, are apt to 
grow very tall ; to remedy this, and to enable them to form 
handsome heads, the leading shoot should be cut off when 
of about three years' growth from the bud ; after which give 
only occasional pruning, to reform or remove any casual 
irregularity from cross-placed or very crowded branches, 
and take away all cankery and decayed wood. 

Dwarf Cherry trees may be introduced into the Kitchen 
Garden, and trained as espaliers, &c. When Morellos are 
planted in an orchard, they may be placed from fifteen to 
twenty feet apart ; trees of the duke kind may be planted 
from twenty-five to thirty feet apart ; and the heart-shaped, 
in general, will require to be from thirty to forty feet from 
each other, or from any spreading trees. 

Cherry trees may be removed the first year after the bud 
is established ; but they will bear removal at any time before 
they come into bearing, which is about the fifth year. 

The gum which exudes from Cherry trees is equal to 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 



53 



Gum Arabic ; and Hasselquist relates, " that more than one 
hundred men, during a siege, were kept alive for nearly two 
months, without any other sustenance than a little of this 
gum taken sometimes into the mouth, and suffered gradually 
to dissolve." The wood is hard and tough, and used by the 
turner and cabinet maker. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 

DUKE AND ROUND FRUIT. 

Ambree de Choisy, Belle de Choisy of Downing. Cerise Doucefte, Cerise 
de la Paletnbre of the French gardens. A middle size roundish fruit, liigh- 
ly deserving of cultivation. Skin transparent, red, mottled with amber; 
flesh amber coloured, tender, and sweet. It bears well as a standard, and 
ripens its fruit in June. 

AncHDUKE, Royal Duke, GHolte de Portugal, Portugal Duke. A large 
globular-formed red cherry ; like the May Duke, it grows in clusters, but 
the tree grows more vigorously than that variety ; and yields an abundance 
of fruit, which hangs a long time on the tree improving in flavour, in July. 

Beli.e et Magnifique. A fine round cherry, much esteemed in Mas- 
sachusetts. The tree is vigorous and productive ; the fruit truly magnifi- 
cent ; its colour red, mottled with white spots, and abounding in acid ; valu- 
able from its late maturity, in July. 

Carnation, Cerise Nouvelle d' Angleierre, and Cerise de Portugal, of 
Downing. Late Spa^iish, Griotte d'Espagne, and Griotte de Villenes, of 
Prince. Fruit round, of a pale red colour ; flesh firm, with a very good 
flavoured juice ; makes excellent preserves, and is good for the table in 
July. 

Downer's Late Red, Boivner's Favourite. A large round cherry, de- 
serving a place in every garden, raised by S. Downer, Esq., of Dorchester, 
Massachusetts; colour light red ; flesh firm and of a fine sprightly flavour ; 
ripening after most other superior varieties are gone, on which account this 
variety is highly prized in the markets. 

Kentish, Early Kentish, Early Richmond, Virginian May, Long Stem 
Montmorency, Montmorency a hmgue queue- Mr. Prince says that other 
varieties are sold erroneously under the above names. The fruit of this 
variety is round ; skin red ; flesh sprightly acid ; juice abundant ; excellent 
for the table and kitchen. It will hang long on the tree, in favourable wea- 
ther, in June and July. 

Late Duke, Cerise Anglaise tardive, Unique nouvelle. Fruit large, 
above the size of a May Duke ; obtuse heart shaped, rather flat ; skin a 
shining dark red ; flesh amber coloured, tender, juicy, and high flavoured. 
Tree a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in July. 

May Duke, Early Duke, and Cerise d' Anglelerre, of Downing. Hoi- 



54 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 

mail's T>uke, June Duke, Griotte de Portugal, and Royale haiive, nf PrincCr 
Fruit of medium size, roundisii, growing in clusters; the skin, wiien fully 
ripe, very dark red ; the flesh is soft and juicy, with a very pleasant acid. 
This excellent variety ripens about tlie middle of June. 

MoRELLO, English MoreUo, Milan, Cerise du nord, Griotte du nord. 
Fruit of medium size, round ; of a dark red colour, nearly black at matu- 
rity ; flesh deep red, tender, juicy, and blended with an agreeable acid ; ripe 
in July, and hangs some time on the tree. This variety is excellent for 
preserves, and for Brandy. 

Plumstone Morello. A tree of moderate size, of the Duke or Kent- 
ish species ; a very large, dark, round cherry, nearly black ; of a rich acid 
flavour. The stone is very large, and resembles that of a plum ; a native 
of Virginia, introduced by William Prince, of the Linnsen Botanic Garden, 
Flushing. 

Waterloo. A large, roundish, dark cherry, inclining to black at matu- 
rity ; the flesh is firm and of an excellent flavour; raised by a daughter of 
Mr. Knight, and so named from perfecting its fruit soon after the battle of 
Waterloo. The tree is of strong but irregular growth, and ripens its fruit 
in July. 

HEART-SHAPED AND BIGARREAUS. 

American Amber, Early Amber, New Honey. A beautiful heart-shaped 
cherry, of medium size, and dark pink or amber colour ; flesh, rich, sweet, 
and excellent. It ripens early in June. 

American Heart, Arden's White Heart- A medium sized cherry, of 
pale yellowish colour ; obtuse heart shaped ; flesh tender and palatable, 
but not high flavoured. The tree, which ripens its fruit in June, is very 
productive. 

Bkli.e de Rocmont, Bigarreau de Rocmont, Cceur de pigeon, Bigar- 
reau cotnmim. A beautiful heart shaped fruit, of pale yellowish and reti 
colour, marbled and glossy ; flesh firm, white ; juice sprightly and of ati 
agreeable flavour : in June and July. 

BiGAUREAU, Black. Man7ii7}g^s Black Bigarremi: This variety is con- 
sidered highly deserving a place in every good collection ; it originated in 
Mr. Manning's nursery at Salem; the fruit is large, colour black; flesh 
sweet and of peculiar rich flavour. The tree grows handsome, is very 
productive, and ripens its fruit in July. 

Bigarreau, Graffion, Turkey Bigarreau,, Yellow Spanish, White Bi- 
garreau, Imperial, Guigne Amhree, White Orleans. Very large, obtuse, 
heart-shaped; yellowish amber colour, but fine red next the sun; flesh 
firm, white, sweet, and well flavoured ; a beautiful and excellent fruit : ripe 
in June and July. This variety commands the highest price in market. 

Bigarreau White, Wliite Ox Heart, and Harrison's Heart, of Down- 
ing. White Bigarreau Tradescant, and Bigarreau hlanc le gros. of Prince. 
Fruit large ; obtuse heart shaped ; of pale yellow and white colour, mot- 
tled with red ; flesh white, firm, and well flavoured : ripe in June and July. 

Black Eagle. A beautiful variety, raised by Miss Knight, of Downton 
Castle, 1S06: fruit of globular form, and middle size; skin dark purple, or 
nearly black ; flesh very tender, rich, and of excellent flavour. The tree 
grows strong, very upright, and ripens its fruit early. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 



55 



Black Heart, Guig7iier a Fruit noir. Fruit rather large, heart-shaped ; 
dark purple, approaching to black at maturity ; flesh dark red, tender, of 
excellent flavour : ripe early in July. Tree a good bearer. 

Black Tartakian, Black Circassian. Frastr's Black Tartarian, Black 
Russian, Ronald's Large Black Heart, Fraser's Black Heart. A very large 
heart-shaped fruit, of a most superior quality; colour dark shining purple, 
or black ; flesh firm, dark red or purple ; sweet, and of most excellent fla- 
vour : in June and July. The tree grows rapid, and is very productive. 

Davenport's Early Black, New May Duke. This variety is consid- 
ered as one of the finest and most, productive of early cherries known. The 
fruit is of medium size, heart-shaped, of a dark glossy black colour ; flesh 
firm, and of a pleasant sub-add flavour. It ripens a week or ten days earlier 
than the May Duke. 

Elkhorn, Black Oxfieart, Tradesca7ifs Black, Bigarrcau gros mnr. 
Large Black Bigarrcau. A large, black, heart-shaped cherry, well suited 
to bear carriage to market from the firmness of its flesh. This variety 
ripens the second and third week in July, when other kinds are scarce-— 
{Prince) 

Elton. This excellent variety was raised by Mr. Knight in 1806 ; the 
tree is very vigorous and productive ; the fruit is pretty large, heart-shaped; 
pale glossy yellow in the shade, but marbled with bright red next the sun ; 
flesh firm, sweet, and rich: ripens soon after the May Duke. 

Florence. A very tine heart-shaped cherry ; of a yellow amber colour, 
marbled with bright red in the shade, bright red next the sun ; flesh toler- 
ably firm, juicy, rich, and sweet: ripe end of June and in July. 

GiRDLEY, Apple Cherry. A native fruit of medium size, which originated 
on the firm of Mr. Girdley, of Roxbury, near Boston ; the colour is black, 
the flesh firm, and of a fine flavour: in July. The tree grows vigorous, 
and is very productive. 

Knight's Early Black. The blossoms of this variety appear very 
early; its fruit resembles the Waterloo; of a rich dark hue; its flesh is 
firm, juicy, and abundantly sweet : by the middle of June. 

Mazzard, Black. This cherry grows wild, and is cultivated also in 
abundance in various parts of England. It is the principal fruit employed 
for the making of Cherry Brandy, and the stocks of the species are best 
adapted for nursery men to bud and graft the better kinds on. 

Napoleon Big ause av, Bigarreau Napoleon, Lauermann, Gro.i Bigar- 
rcau de Laiierniann. The tree of this variety is remarkable for the vigour 
and beauty of its growth ; it produces a fine large white fruit with red 
spots ; the fle.?h is remarkably white, solid, and of a sweet, agreeable fla- 
vour : early in July. 

White Bigarreau. Mr. Manning represents this as one of the largest 
and finest cherries known. The form is obtuse, heart-shaped; -skin pale 
yellow, with a bright red cheek ; flesh very firm, juicy, sweet, and fine fla- 
voured : ripe in July. Mr. Manning observes, that this variety has the re- 
putation of being a shy bearer, but that in his orchard it yields an abun- 
dance of fruit; and, that owing to the hardness of its flesh, is not liable to 
injury from birds ; on this account, he says, it is highly deserving of cul- 
tivation. 

White Heart, Remington W/iite Heart, Late Wtiife Heart- A mode- 
rate sized cherry, of pleasant flavour; chiefly valuable for its very late ma- 



56 CHESTNUTi 

turity, being towards the end of August. It is said to have originated in 
Rhode Island. 

White TARTARiAif, White Transparent Crimea, Eraser'' s White, Guigne 
de Rusiie blanc A beautiful cherry, pale yellow, approaching to amber 
next the sun ; a much admired fruit, of excellent flavour: a good bearer, 
ripening early in July. 



CHESTNUT. 
Chataigner. Castanea. 

The Chestnut is well known as a large tree, spreading its 
branches finely where it has room, but planted closely, will 
shoot up straight to a great height. It is supposed to have 
been originally from Sardis. It is so common as to be con- 
sidered a native of France and Italy, and some consider it 
as naturalized in England ; it is also indigenous in America. 
The London catalogues contain the names of thirty-two 
sorts under cultivation. The Chestnut is, like the Walnut, 
both a timber and fruit tree ; some of the oldest trees in the 
world are of this species.* The American Chestnut differs 
BO little from the European, that no specific distinction can 
be drawn. It is one of the largest trees of the forest, the 
wood being extremely durable, and in high esteem for posts 
and rails to construct fences ; and the nuts are very delicious^ 
The Castanea pumila, or Chinquapin nut, is a small tree, or 
rather shrub, growing to the height of thirty feet in the 
Southern States, but seldom exceeding ten in cold latitudes ; 
the fruit is very s\Veet and agreeable to eat. 

There is a variety with striped leaves, which is very ortia- 
mental. The most esteemed of the French kinds are called 
Marron. Some excellent fruit-bearing varieties are culti- 

* At Fortworth, in Gloucestershire, Engknd, is a large tree, fifty-two 
feet round, which in 1 150 was called the " Great Chestnut of Fortworihi" 
Marsham states that this tree is 11 00 years old, and that the timber is al- 
most incorruptible, and more durable than oak. Its durability is commen- 
surate with the long life of the tree. 



CRANBERRY. 57 

vated in England, France, Italy, and Spain, as also in other 
parts of Europe ; these are increased by gi'afting or budding 
in the usual methods, but the plants for coppice wood, or 
timber, are best raised from nuts. Some varieties ripen their 
fruit a few days earlier than others, but none of these have 
been fixed on, or perpetuated by nurserymen, so as to ren- 
der them available to purchasers. The fruit is a desirable 
nut for autumn or winter, and is eaten roasted, with salt, and 
sometimes raw; and in some countries it is not only boiled 
and roasted, but ground into meal, and puddings, cakes, and 
bread axe made from it. 



CRANBERRY. 
Canneberge. Oxycocus. 

This genus of plants is well distinguished from the Vac^ 
cinium, or Whortleberry, by the narrow revolute segments 
of corolla ; and are pretty little trailing evergreen plants, to 
which a peat soil, and rather moist situations, are absolutely 
necessary. They are very little changed by culture. 

The Oxycocus macrocarpus is a red acid fruit, highly val- 
ued as a sweetmeat, or for tarts. It is well known that this 
excellent fruit grows in many parts of our country sponta- 
neously ; and that the mere gathering of it, is all that boun- 
tiful nature requires at our hands ; but it is well worth cul- 
tivating where there are none. This fruit will keep a whole 
year, if properly preserved in close covered stone jars, and 
IS considered by many as superior to the best currant jelly, 
and may be kept for many months in a raw state without 
injury. 

The Oxijcoms palustris bears edible berries, which are 
gathered wild both in England and Scotland, and made into' 
tarts. Lightfoot says, that twenty or thirty pounds' worth 
are sold each market day, for five or six weeks together, in 
the town of Langtown, on the borders of Cumberland. 



58 CURRANT. 

Nicol says, the American species are more easily culti- 
vated than the English, but is inferior to it in flavour. There 
is reason to believe that the quality of fruit of each of these 
species is subject to variations, which have not yet been prac- 
tically distinguished. Their cultivation is now so well un- 
derstood, that both may be considered with propriety as in- 
mates of the fruit garden. Some raise them from seed sown 
early in the spiing ; but it is best to set out plants, and lay 
the runners as they progress in growth. 

It is customary in England to prepare beds on the edges 
of ponds, which are banked up so as to admit of the wet 
getting underneath them; bog or peat earth is considered 
essential for the roots to run in, but it has been discovered 
that they can be cultivated in damp situations in a garden, 
with a top dressing of peat or bog earth, and if they are 
once suited as to the soil, the plants will multiply so as to 
cover the bed in the course of a year or two, by means of 
their long runners, which take root at different points. 
From a very small space a very large quantity of Cranberries 
may be gathered ; and they prove a remarkably regular 
crop, scarcely affected by the slate of the weather, and not 
subject to the attacks of insects. Sir Joseph Banks gives 
an account (in Hort. Trans., 1. 71) of his success in culti- 
vating this fruit. " In one year, viz., 1813, from 326 square 
feet, or a bed about eighteen feet square, three and a half 
Winchester bushels of berries were produced, which, at five 
bottles to the gallon, gives one hundred and forty bottles, 
each sufficient for one Cranberry pie, from two and a half 
square feet." 



CURRANT. 

Groseiller a grappes. Ribes. 

This is a genus of well-known shrubs, much cultivated 
for their fruit. It is a native of the Northern parts of 



CtTRRAA'T. 59 

Europe, and found in hedges and woods in England ; and 
there are some species indigenous in America. The fruit, 
being of an agreeable sub-acid taste, is generally relished 
both as a dessert and in pies and tarts ; it is also much used 
in makingr wine, and is oTown to a considerable extent for 
that purpose in Essex, Kent, and about Pershore, in Wor- 
cestershire, England. There are ten species cultivated in the 
garden of the Horticultural Society of London, comprising 
twelve varieties of red, ten of white, five kinds of black, 
together with a champagr.e, mountain, rock, upright, Penn- 
sylvanian, &;c. Any number of varieties of the red and 
white may be procured from sowing the seed, but they are 
generally propagated by cuttings of the last year's wood, 
which should be of sufficient length to form handsome 
plants, v/ith a clear stem ten inches high ; these may be 
planted immediately upon losing their leaves in autumn, or 
very early the ensuing spring. 

The Currant will grow in almost every soil, but prospers 
best in one loamy and rich. The best flavoured fruit is 
produced from plants in an open situation, but they will 
grow under the shades of walls or trees, and either as low 
bushes, or trained as espaliers. They bear chiefly on spurs, 
and on young wood of from one to three years' growth, and, 
therefore, in pruning, most of the young wood should be cut 
to within two or three buds of that where it originated. 
After the plants are furaished with full heads, they produce 
many superfluous and irregular shoots eveiy summer, 
crowding the general bearers, so as to require regulating 
and curtailing, both in the young growth of the year, and in 
older wood. 

The principal part of the work may be done in ■v\-inter, or 
early in spring ; but a preparatory part should be performed 
in summer, to eradicate suckers, and thin the superfluous 
shoots of the year, where they are so crowded as to exclude 
the sun and air from the fruit. In training espaliers and fir 
standards, two branches are laid in a horizontal direction 



60 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CURRANTS. 

along the bottom of the trellis, perhaps half a foot from the? 
surface of the earth, and the growth from these, or of all up- 
right shoots, which will admit of being arranged at t'he distance 
of five or six inches from each other, is encouraged. Fan 
standards are sometimes trained with the branches radiating 
from the crown of the stem. 

The black Currant, or Ribes nigrum, is common in moist 
woods in Russia and Siberia; its culture is similar to that 
of the red, but as it is less apt to bear in spurs than on 
young wood, the shoots should not be so much shortened in 
this as in the other. 

Currant bushes will require to be planted at different dis- 
tances, according to the situation and mode of training, &c. 
When planted in beds, borders, or squares, they should be 
six feet apart, but if trained as espaliers, they will require 
to be eight feet apart. 

Many people dislike the flavour of black Currants ; they 
are, therefore, not much used in the kitchen or dessert, and 
seldom in wine making. They make a jelley or jam, in 
estimation as a gargle for inflammatory sore throats. " In 
Russia and Siberia, wine is made of the berries alone, or 
fermented with honey, and with or or without spirits. In 
Siberia they make a drink of the leaves ; these tincture 
common spirits so as to resemble brandy, and a few of them 
dried and mixed with black tea, answer all the purposes of 
the green material." — (^Loudon.) 

All kinds of Currants may be forced by placing them in 
any forcing department in January or February ; they will 
produce ripe fruit in April and May. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CURRANTS. 

Black English, Common Black. This species is most generally culti- 
vated in private gardens for medicinal purposes ; the berries are plentiful, 
of large size, and frequently hang on the bush two months, improving in 
flavoun 



PIG. 61 

Black Naples. In this variety the fruit is larger, the dusters more nu- 
merous, and each cluster produces more berries than the ordinary kinds, on 
which account it is highly esteemed. 

Champagne. The berries of this variety are of a pale red colour, which 
being transparent, causes it to be generally estimated as a dessert fruit. It 
is a prolific bearer. 

Large R.ed, Red Dutch. This is the most desirable kind of the red 
fruited currant cultivated ; the bush, when properly trained and pruned, 
grows strong and upright, and produces an abundance of fine large berries. 

White Crystal, White Grope. An excellent variety, the berries of 
which are large, and of a beautiful clear transparent brilliancy ; hence its 
name. 

White Dutch. This variety is held in great esteem for different pur- 
poses ; th€ clusters and berries are large, of a yellowish white colour, and 
delicious flavour. The bushes are often so productive that the branches of 
the bearing wood trail beneath the weight of the fruit. 

Missouri Currant. This species is quite distinct from the ordinary 
kinds ; its berries are purple, and although of rather agreeable flavour, they 
are not to be compared with those under general cultivation. 

To these may be added Knight's Sweet Red, Wilmofs Large Red, Went- 
worth Red, Victoria, and Green Fruited, lately introduced. 

The above are the most celebrated species of Currants. 
Some nurserymen's catalogues contain many other names, a 
great proportion of which are, probably, a repetition of the 
same fruit. Where the Currant is cultivated for the purpose 
of making wine, the White and Red Dutch are to be pre- 
ferred to all others. For the dessert, the White Crystal and 
Champagne are great favourites, on account of their trans- 
parent clearness. 



FIG. 

FiGuiER. Ficus carica. 

There are many species of the Fig, which are all natives 
of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and in the South 
of Europe, they are always grown as standards ; and the 
fruit, green and dried, forms an important part of the food 
of the inhabitants. The London Horticultural catalogue 
contains the names of seventy-five sorts ; and Messrs. Prince, 
of Flushing, have about forty names in their catalogue. It 

6 



o2 FIG. 

is cultivated in England as a fruit tree, and, in warm situa- 
tions, \vill ripen its fruit in the open air. In Sussex, on the 
sea-coast, it ripens its fruit on standards. Some of the best 
in England are at Arundel Castle ; and there is a Fig or- 
chard of one hundred trees at Tamng, near Worthing. 
Those at Arundel are planted six or eight feet apart, and 
from a single stem allowed to continue branching conical 
heads, pruning chiefly inegular and redundant growths, and 
cutting out decayed or injured wood. 

The Fis: tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings, 
layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting ; the most generally 
approved method is by layei^s or cuttins^s, which come into 
bearing the second, and sometimes the first year. Xo tree 
is more robust or more prolific ; even plants in pots or tubs 
kept in a temperature adapted for the Orange ti'ee, will fruit 
freely, and ripen two crops a year, and by being taken care 
of through the winter, will s^o on grooving and ripening fruit 
without intermission. Mr. Knight has obtained from his 
hot-house in England, eight successive crops in a year, by 
bending the limbs in a position below the horizontal. The 
trees will produce tolerable crops in the second year if rung 
or decorticated ; and by this process maturity of the finait is 
accelerated, and its size increased.* Its matuiity is also has- 
tened by pricking the fruit with a straw or quill dipped in 
olive oil, or even by slightly touching the fruit with oil, at 
the finger's end. In Fig countries the fruit is presei'ved by 
dipping it in scalding lye, made of the ashes of the Fig tree, 
and then dried in the sun. 



* Girdling, decortication, ringing:, or circumcision, as it is sometimes va- 
riously called, consists in making two circular incisions quite round the 
limb, through the bark, at the distance of about a quarter of an inch asun- 
der, more or less, according; to ti.e size and thickness of the tree ; then by 
mak'us a pprpendicular slit, the ring of the bark is wholly removed to the 
wood. Ringing or decortication is applicable to every kind of fruit tree, 
and to the vine. Its operation is twofold. First, in the early production 
and abundance of blossom bads which it induces: and second, in increasing 
the size of the fruit and hastening its maturity, according to the season in 
wiich the operation is performed. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FIGS. 63 

When Figs are cultivated in a garden, a good loamy soil 
should be provided ; and they raay be trained to close fences, 
or trellises, in sheltered situations. At the approach of win- 
ter they roust be protected ; those trained to close fences 
may be secured through the winter by a covering of mat- 
ting ; and such as may be in open situations should be libe- 
rated from the trellis, and laid down close to the ground, 
and covered three or four inches with earth ; or trenches may 
he formed of that depth, suificient to contain the branches, 
which should be fastened down with hooked pegs, without 
cramping them : such of the strong central branches as will 
not bend may be enveloped in litter. They should be 
pruned before they are laid down in November, and on 
being raised again in April, they may be trained as before. 
Figs may be cultivated in private gardens as easily as the 
vine. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FIGS. 

Angelique, Coticourelle Blanche, Melitte. Fruit rather small, some- 
what pyramidal; skin yellow, mottled with white ; pulp white ; seed tinged 
with red. In the neighbourhood of Paris this variety produces two crops 
annually; the first is usually thin, but the second very abundant and ex- 
cellent. 

Black Italian. Fruit small and round; pulp very delicious. Mr. 
Forsyth used to cultivate this kind in pots, and it is recorded that he has 
gathered from one plant two dozen fi?s in a day. 

Blue oh Purple, Large Blue, Great Blue, Large Purple- Fruit large, 
oblong ; skin purple, covered with thick blue bloom ; pulp deep red, and ot 
a rich flavour : ripe in August. The tree is hardy and prolific 

BouRDEAux, Figue Poire, Violette rle Bourdtaux. Fruit of a pyramidal 
figure ; skin brownish red, slightly mottled ; pulp red. succulent, and sweet. 
This is cultivated throughout France, and produces two crops annually. 

Brown Turkev. Fruit small and round ; pulp very delicious. This 
and the Black Italian are mentioned by Mr. Forsyth as being cultivated by 
him in pots, and each possessing equal merit. 

Brunswick, Ma/lonna, Hanover. Fruit very large, obovate ; skin pale 
green, tinged with yellow; flesh pinkish, extremely rich, and high flavoured. 
This is one of the largest and best hardy figs for garden culture, and it will 
ripen in the neighbourhood of London by the miikilc of August. 

Chestnut, Chestnut-coloured Ishia., Brown lochia- Fruit globular, of 
large size ; skin of a brown chestnut coloiu: ; pulp purple, sweet, and high 



64 FILBERT AND HAZLENIJT, 

flavoured This kind will often yield two crops in England, the first fruit 
of which ripens in August. 

Early White, Small Early White. Fruit somewhat round ; skin thin ; 
when fully ripe of a pale yellow colour ; pulp white, sweet, and of plea- 
sant flavour. This generally ripens two crops in one season. 

Green Ischia. Fruit oblons; slvin green, very thin; pulp purple, 
which, when fully ripe, stains the skin to a brownish cast. This is a very 
high flavoured fig, especially in warm countries : ripe in August. 

Large White Genoa. Fruit large, globular; skin thin, white, turning 
to yellow when fully ripe ; pulp red, and of good flavour, This in Eng- 
land bears two crops, annually. 

Mai TA. Small Brown, of some gardens. Fruit small ; skin pale brown ; 
pulp very sweet and well flavoured: ripe in August, and if left hanging on 
the tree until shrivelled, it becomes a fine sweetmeat. 

Nerii. The Nerii fig is highly esteemed in England. Fruit oblong, of 
medium size; skin pale greenish yellow; the flesh is very rich, and the 
juice possesses a delicate acidity, which renders it peculiarly palatable: ripe 
in August. 

Pregussata. Fruit large, oblate ; skin dark brown ; pulp deep red ; re- 
markably sweet and rich : ripe in August. 

Purple Genoa. Fruit large, long; skin dark purple; pulp extremely 
sweet and luscious: ripe in August. 

Violettb, Figue Violette. The Violet Fig, like the Angelique, is much 
cultivated in the neighbourhood of Paris, and produces two crops annually. 
Fruit small ; skin deep violet ; pulp, near the skin, white ; the interior red, 
and of excellent flavour. 

White Marseilles, Pocock, Figue Blanche. Fruit medium size, some- 
what turbinate ; skin pale green, becoming yellowish when fully ripe : flesh 
white, dry, sweet, and rich : ripe in August. 

Yellow Ischia, Cyprus. Fruit large, of a pyramidal form , skin yel- 
low, when fully ripe ; pulp purple and high flavoured : in August and 
September. 



FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. 

NoiSETIER AVELINIER. Corylus. 

The Filbert, in many varieties, and also the common Ha- 
zlenut, grow spontaneously in the woods of Britain, and 
some few varieties are indigenous in this country. The 
kinds of Filberts generally cultivated are the white, red, cob, 
clustered, and frizzled; of each of which there are many 
varieties. As this shrub is so easily cultivated, it is a matter 
of astonishment that the nuts from this genus of plants are 
so scarce in our markets. In different parts of England 



FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. 65 

there are Filbert orchards. In the Filbert grounds about 
Maidstone, in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate 
Hops, standard Apples, and Cherries, among the Filberts ; 
when these come into a bearing state, the Hops are taken 
up and transplanted elsewhere, and the fruit trees only suf- 
fered to remaiii. The spare ground is then planted with 
Gooseberries, Currants, &c. The Red Filbert is allowed to 
have a finer flavour than the White. The Cob'nut is large, 
with a thick shell, but the kernel is sweet and of consider- 
able size. The Barcelona is a good large nut, with a thin 
shell. The Cosford is very sweet, kernels well, and the tiee 
is a great bearer. The Bond JYid, and the Lambert JVtit are 
of large size, roundish shape, and very prolific bearers. The 
Frizzled Filbert is highly esteemed. It is beautiful when in 
the husk, and its flavour is very similar to that of the White 
Filbert ; the shell of which is also thin, and its kernel sweet 
and fine. 

All the diflerent kinds may be grown as dwarf standards ; 
or they will bear very well if planted in clumps : but as 
they produce an abundance of suckers, these should be 
parted off" frequently, and planted in a nursery bed for 
stocks ; as the bearing plants will cease to produce fruit in 
any quantity, if the suckers are allowed to form a thick 
bush. They may be propagated by seed, by suckers, by 
layers, or by grafting in the spring upon seedling or sucker 
stocks. 

The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the upper 
young branches, and upon small shoots which proceed from 
the bases of side branches cut off" the preceding year. The 
leading shoot is eveiy year to be shortened, and every shoot 
that is left to produce fruit should be clipped ; which pre- 
vents the tree from being exhausted in making wood at the 
end of the branch. Such branches as may have borne fruit, 
must be cut out every year, in order to promote the growth 
of a supply of young fruit-bearing branches. 



66 GOOSEBERRY. 

GOOSEBERRY. 
Groseiller. Ribes grossularia, uva, crispa, etc. 

The Gooseberry is a native of several paits of Europe, 
and is indigenous in America, as far north as 68*^, It is 
cultivated to greater perfection in England than in any other 
part of the v^^tnld. In Spain and Italy, this fruit is scarcely 
known. In France, it is neglected. In Lancashire, Eng- 
land, and some parts of the adjoining counties, almost every 
cottager cultivates the Gooseberry, with a view to prizes 
given at what are called Gooseberry Prize Meetings ; of 
these, there is annually published an account, with the names 
and weights of the successful sorts, in what is called the 
Manchester Gooseberry Book. The prizes vary from ten 
shillings to five and ten pounds sterling. There are meet- 
ings held in the spring to " make up," as the term is, the 
persons, and the conditions of exhibition ; and in August, 
to weigh and test the fruit, and determine the prizes. 

In Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden, 
seven hundred and twenty-two varieties are described ; from 
which the following are selected, as in most repute for size, 
flavour, and other good qualities : 



British Ckown, Boardman's- This variety is noted as being a fine fla- 
voured fruit, especially for tarts. Thirty-three prizes had been awarded for 
it in 1829; the largest berry weighing 18 pennyweights and 10 grains. 

Champagne. The fruit of this variety is held in great esteem for its 
delicious flavour; the berry is of medium size, somewhat ofjlong and hairy. 

Capper's Top Sawteb. This is a late fruit, of oblong shape, and hairy 
near the base. One hundred and seventy-one prizes were obtained for this 
in 1838 and 9 ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. 

Crown Bob, Melting's. This variety won eighty-five prizes in two sea- 
sons ; thf> largest berry weighing 21 dwts. and 12 grains. It is a late fruit, 
of oblong shape, bright red colour, and hairy. 

Early Red, WilmoVs. This variety is considered by Mr. Wilmot as 
first rate of its colour. It has a thin skin; is of large size, very early, of 
excellent flavour, and incredibly productive. 

Huntsman. This variety, which originated with Mr. Bratherton, tooii 



GOOSEBERRY. 



67 



two hundred and sixteen prizes in 1828 and 9 -, the heaviest berry weighed 
24 dwts. 

Lancashire Lad, Hartshorn's. One hundred and fifty-six prizes were 
awarded for this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 
11 grains. 

Marquis of Stafford, Knight's. This much esteemed late variety is 
hairy, of medium size, bright red colour, and delicious flavour. 

Old Rough Red. This is a favourite fruit for family use ; the berries 
are of medium size, of dark red colour ; excellent for preserving as goose- 
berry jam, and for bottling in an unripe state. 

Over-all, Bratherton's. This variety took seventy-four prizes in two 
seasons, the average weight of the berries being 20 dwts. It is a highly 
esteemed fruit. 

Ploughbdy. This is a medium sized early fruit, in great repute for its 
delicious flavour and productiveness. 

Prince Regent, Boardman's. This variety won one hundred and 
forty-one prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 
grains. 

Roaring Lion, Farmer's. In 1828 three hundred and forty-nine prizes 
were awarded for this variety ; and in 1829 it won four hundred and fifty- 
three prizes, the largest berry weighing 29 dwts. ; since which time, ber- 
ries have been known to weigh over an ounce and a half. 

Shakspeare. Sixty prizes were awarded for this variety in two sea- 
sons ; the average weight of the berries were about 20 dwts. It is a great 
bearer. 

Sir John Cotgrave, Bratherton's. This variety took three hundred 
and forty-three prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 25 dwts. 
2 grains. 

Triumphant, Benny's. This is a medium sized early berry, weighing 
about 16 dwts. It is considered equal in quality to any gooseberry of its 
colour. 

Warrington. This is a favourite fruit for private gardens ; the berries 
are of medium size, very rich flavoured, and ripen gradually without de- 
teriorating. 

YELLOW. 

Bunker's Hill, Capper's. Two hundred and ten prizes were awarded 
for this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 2 grains. 

Britannia. This variety is noted for its earliness and delicious flavour. 
The fruit is of medium size, weighing about 18 dwts. 

Cottag K Girl, Heaps' s. This variety won one hundred and thirty-three 
prizes in two seasons; the largest berry weighing 19 dwts. 14 grains. 

Golden Gourd. Hill's. A fine early fruit of medium size; shape ob- 
long ; skin thin, slightly hairy, of rich flavour, and not apt to mildew. 

Golden Yellow, Dixon's- This is a favourite, medium sized, early 
fruit for private gardens ; the skin is smooth, thin, and transparent, and 
the berries will hang some time without becoming flat and insipid. 

Gunner. Hardcastle' s. One hundred and ninety-two prizes were given 
for tills variety in 1828; and in 1829 one hundred and eighty-one prize' 
were awarded ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. 5 grains ; fruit rather 
late. 



68 GOOSEBERRY. 

Ikvinciblk, Haywood's. This celebrated fruit is of medium size, weigh- 
ing about 18 dvvts; skin thin, transparent; pulp saccharine and deli- 
cious. 

KiLTON Hero, Hamlefs Kilton. One of the best earlj^ yellow fruited 
gooseberries ; fruit oblong, slightly hairy, excellent for cooking while im- 
mature, and delicious eating when fully ripe. 

Regulator, Prophet's. A very fine fruit, of medium size and rich acid 
flavour; good for bottling, being firm, and not liable to crack. 

Rock WOOD, Prophet's. The fruit of this variety is very early; it is of a 
roundish, oblong shape, and slightly hairy. It won three hundred and three 
prizes in two years ; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. 3 grains. 

SovKREiGN, Bratherton's. Two hundred and two prizes were obtained 
for this variety in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 
grains. 

VipEK, Gordon's. This is an early smooth fruit, and won eighty-seven 
prizes in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 5 grains. 

GREEN. 

Angler, Collier's. Three hundred and sixty-five prizes were awarded 
for this variety in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 1 
grain. 

Early Green, Hairy- This variety is described in the Pomological 
Magazine as a very early fruit; it is round, hairy, of a deep green colour 
and excellent flavour, but not large. 

Favourite, Bates's. Two hundred and thirty-five prizes were given for 
this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 20 grains. 

Greenwood, Berry's- This variety obtained two hundred and four 
prizes in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 4 grains. It is 
a deliciously flavoured fruit. 

Green Gage, pit/naston's. A beautiful berry of medium size ; skin 
pale green, smooth and transparent ; will hang long- on the bush, and 
retain its rich acid flavour when fully ripe. 

Green Myrtle, Nixon's. A fine late gooseberry of large size, oblong 
shape ; skin smooth, of pale green colour ; pulp saccharine, juicy, and of 
peculiar rich flavour. 

Heart or Oak, Massey's. Fruit of medium size, early; skin smooth, 
green, with pale yellow veins ; pulp rich, and high flavoured even when 
fully ripe. 

Independent, Bigg's- One hundred and twenty-one prizes were Riven 
for this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 16 dwts. 4 grains. 
It is an early rich fruit. 

Jolly Tar, Edwards's. Fruit early, of medium size ; skin smooth, 
green, with yellow veins ; average weight about 15 dwts ; good to preserve 
while immature, and of delicious flavour when fully ripe. 

Laurel, Parkinson's- Fruit of medium size ; skin pale green, very- 
downy ; an excellent dessert fruit, in great repute. 

Lord Crewe, Clutton's. This celebrated variety obtained ninety-six 
prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing about 23 dwts. It is a 
prolific bearer, and worthy of general cultivation. 

Ocean, Wuinmun's. This variety won two hundred and seventy-eight 



GOOSEBERRY. 69 

prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 8 grains. Tlie 
fruit is oblong and smooth. 

Troubler, Moore^s. One hundred and sixty prizes were taken for this 
variety in two years : the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 13 grains. 

WisTASTON Hero, Bratfierton's- Fruit of medim size, pale green co- 
lour ; of rich pungent flavour; excellent for preserves, and when fully ripe 
it is a delicious dessert fruit. 

WHITE. 

Bonny Lass, Capper's. This variety won one hundred and sixty-seven 
prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 21 dwts. 10 grains. 

Cheshire Lass, Saunders's. This is one of the earliest varieties, and 
makes excellent tarts. The fruit is large, oblong, downy, and fine flavoured. 

Governess, Brathcrton's. One hundred and twenty-four prizes were 
awarded for this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 24 dwts. 

Lady Delamere, Wylds's. This variety took two hundred and fifty- 
three prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 6 grains. 

Lady of the Manor. This variety won ninety-eight prizes in two 
seasons, the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 9 grains. It is held in great 
esteem for its productiveness. 

Lioness. Fruit of medium size, oblong shape; skin thin, transparent ; 
pulp and juice saccharine and delicious. 

Nailer, Blumiley's. One hundred and thirty-four prizes were given for 
this variety in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 1 8 dwts. 1 2 grains. 

Queen Caroline. This variety won one hundred and forty-two prizes 
in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 1 grain. It is a richly 
flavoured fruit. 

Sheba Queen, Crompton's. This is a favourite variety for private gar- 
dens ; the fruit is early, of medium size ; shape oblong ; skin rather downy ; 
pulp pungent and rich. 

Smiling Girl. This is a smallish early fruit, with thin transparent 
skin, and of peculiarly rich flavour even when fully ripe. 

Wellington's Glory. One hundred and seventy-three prizes were ob- 
tained in two seasons for this variety ; the largest berry weighing 20 dwts. 
4 gi-ains. 

White Bear, Moore's. A fine early dessert fruit ; of medium size and 
oblong shape ; skin hairy and somewhat bristly ; a prolific bearer. 

White Eagle. This variety gained four hundred and seventy-six 
prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 23 dwts. 12 grains. 

White I, ion, Chelworth's- One hundred and two prizes were given for 
this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains. 
The fruit is late, slightly hairy, and excellent for tarts. 

Whitesmith, Woodward's- This is a small early berry, weighing about 
1 4 dwts. The skin is downy, and the fruit is fully equal to any gooseberry 
of its colour. 

The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes ap- 
plicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is usually 
adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seed for pro- 



70 GOOSEBERRY. 

curing them. The cuttings should be taken from promising 
shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in the autumn ; 
the greatest part of the buds should be taken off, leaving 
only two or three buds on the top. Cut them at such a 
length as the strength and ripeness of the wood will bear ; 
and plant them in good pulverized soil. On the approach 
of winter, lay some moss or litter around them ; and, by 
being well cultivated, they will be fit to transplant when they 
are a year old. 

When bushes are procured from the public nurseries, let 
the general supply be in such kinds as will ripen in succes- 
sion. They may be planted in the kitchen garden, in single 
rows, along the side of the walks or paths, or in compart- 
ments by themselves, in rows from six to eight feet apart 
from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the rows ; or 
in small gardens, they may be trained to a single tall stem, 
and tied to a stake ; this, though six or eight feet high, occa- 
sions scarcely any shade, and it does not occupy much room, 
nor exclude air, while, at the same time, the stem becomes 
closely hung with berries, and makes a pleasant appearance in 
that state. Persons of taste may train them on arched trel- 
lises, and if they are judiciously managed, the ground around 
them may be more easily cultivated ; the fruit may be kept 
from being splashed with rain, and may be easily gathered 
when wanted, or preserved by shading with mats, &c. Those 
who may have a choice of soil and site, should fix on a good, 
rich, loamy earth, and plant some of the choice kinds in a 
northern and eastern aspect, near the fence, to come late in 
succession. 

The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the shoots 
of the preceding year, and on shoots two or three years old, 
but also on spurs or snags arising from the older branches 
along the sides ; but the former afford the largest fruit. The 
shoots retained for bearers should therefore be left at full 
length, or nearly so ; the first pruning should be done before 
the buds swell, so as not to endanger their being rubbed off 



GOOSEBERRY. 71 

in the operation. Cut out all the superfluous cross slioots, 
and prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some well 
placed lateral or eye : retain a sufficiency of the young well 
situated laterals and terminals to form successional bearers. 
In cutting out superfluous and decayed wood, be careful to 
retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal branch. The 
superfluous young laterals on the good main branches, in- 
stead of being taken off clean, may be cut into little stubs 
of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit buds and spurs. 

Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on right 
principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly full of young wood 
in summer, the fruit from which is always small, and does 
not lipen freely with full flavour ; on which account it is an 
important point in pruning, to keep the middle of the head 
open and clear, and to let the occasional shortening of the 
shoots be sparing and moderate. Between the bearing 
branches keep a regulated distance of at least six inches at 
the extremities, which will render them fertile bearers of 
good fruit. 

The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire are par- 
ticular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water occa- 
sionally with the liquor which drains from dunghills ; and 
there are some who, not content with watering at the root 
and over the top, place a small saucer of water under each 
Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are left on a bush ; 
this is technically called suckling. There ai'e others who 
ling some of the branches ; this is done by cutting out small 
circles of bark round them ; and by pinching off a great part 
of the young wood, the strength is thrown to the fruit. 

Unripe Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against 
winter : some, after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand 
them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them 
gradually through without cracking them ; they will keep a 
whole year if closely corked and sealed as soon as cold. 

The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, placed 
in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. " Hay plants in 



72 ORAPE. 

pots in November, removes to the peach house in January, 
and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which he sends to 
table growing on the plants." — Hort. Trans, iv. 415. 



GRAPE. 

ViGNE. Vitis, vinifera, vidpina. 

The Grape Vine is described by Loudon as a trailing 
deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted, irregular stem, and 
long, flexible branches, decumbent, like those of the bramble, 
or supporting themselves, when near other trees, by means 
of tendrils, like the pea. The leaves are large, lobed, 
entire, or serrated and downy, or smooth, green in summer, 
but when matuj-e, those of varieties in which the predomi- 
nating colour is red, constantly change to, or are tinged 
with some shade of that colour ; and those of white, green, 
or yellow Grapes, as constantly change to yellow, and are 
never in the least tinged either with purple, red, or scarlet. 
The breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or ten 
inches, and the length of the foot stalks from four to eip-ht 
inches. The flowers are produced on the shoots of the 
same year, which shoots generally proceed from those of 
the year preceding : they are in the form of a raceme, of a 
greenish white colour, and fragrant odour, appearing in 
the open air in June ; and the fruit, which is of the berry 
kind, attains such maturity as the season and situation admit, 
by the middle or end of September. The berry, or Grape, 
is generally globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or finger- 
shaped ; the colour green, red, yellow, amber, and black, or 
a variegation of two or more of these colours. The skin is 
smooth, the pulp aiad juice of a dulcet, poignant, elevated, 
generous flavour. Every berry ought to enclose five small 
heart or pear shaped stones ; though, as some generally 
fail, they have seldom more than three, and some varieties, 



GRAPE. ' 73 

when they attain a certain age, as the Ascalon, or Sultana 
raisin, none. The weight of a berry depends not only on 
its size, but on the thickness of its skin and texture of the 
flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy sorts, as 
the Sweet Water or Muscadine ; and what are considered 
as large berried of these varieties, will weigh from five to 
seven pennyweights, and measure from one to two-thirds of 
an inch in girth. A good-sized bunch of the same sorts 
may weigh from two to six pounds ; but bunches have been 
grown of the Syrian Grrape, in Syria, weighing forty pounds, 
and in England weighing from ten to nineteen pounds. A 
single vine, in a large pot, or grown as a dwarf standard, in 
the manner practised in the vineyards in the North of France, 
ordinarily produces from three to nine bunches ; but by 
superior management in gardens in England, the number 
of bunches is prodigiously increased, and one plant, that of 
the red Hamburgh sort, in the vinery of the royal gardens 
at Hampton Court, has produced two thousand two hundred 
bunches, averaging one pound each, or in all nearly a ton. 
That at Valentine, in Essex, has produced two thousand 
bunches of nearly the same average weight. 

The age to which the vine will attain in warm climates is 
so great as not to be known. It is supposed to be equal or 
even to surpass that of the oak. Pliny speaks of a vine 
which had existed six hundred years ; and Bose says, there 
are vines in Burgundy upward of four hundred years of age. 

In Italy there are vineyards which have been in a flour- 
ishing state for upward of three centuries, and Miller tells 
us that a vineyard a hundred years old is reckoned young. 
The extent of the branches of the vine, in certain situations 
and circumstances, is commensurate with its produce and 
soil. In the hedges of Italy, and woods of America, they 
are found overtopping the highest elm and poplar trees ; and 
in England, one plant, (lately dead,) trained against a row 
of houses in Northallerton, covered a space, in 1585, of one 
hundred and thirty-seven square yards ; it was then above 

7 



74 GRAPE. 

one hundred years old. That at Hampton Court, nearly of 
the same age, occupies above one hundred and sixty square 
yards ; and that at Valentine, in Essex, above one hundred 
and forty-seven square yards. The size to which the trunk, 
or stem, sometimes attains in warm climates, is so great as 
to have afforded planks fifteen inches broad, furniture, and 
statues ; and the Northallerton vine, above mentioned, in 
1785 measured four feet in ciicumference near the ground, 
and one branch of the Hampton Court vine measures one 
hundred and fourteen feet in length. Vine timber is of great 
durability. 

The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is grown 
for the wine press, are as numerous as the vineyards ; for as 
these for the most pait differ in soil, aspect, elevation, or 
otherwise, and as the vine is gi'eatly the child of local cir- 
cumstances, its habits soon become adapted to those in 
which it is placed. When it is considered that a vineyard 
once planted will last two or three centuries, it will readily 
be conceived that the nature of a variety may be totally 
changed during only a part of that time. The varieties 
mostly in esteem for wine making are small berries, and 
bunches with an austere taste. The Burgundy, as modified 
by different soils and situations, may be considered the most 
general vineyard Grape of France, from Champagne or 
Marne, to Marseilles or Bordeaux. 

The best wine in Italy and Spain is also made from Grapes 
of this description; but in both countries many of the larger- 
berried sorts are grown on account of their producing more 
liquor. The sweet wines, as the Malmsey, Madeira, Con- 
stantia, Tokay, &c., are made from sweet-berried Grapes, 
allowed to remain on the plants till over-ripe. That wine 
is the strongest, and has most flavour, in which both the 
skins and stones are bruised and fermented. The same 
thing is the case in making cider; but in both processes 
bruising the stones or kei'nels is neglected. The vine was 
formerly extensively cultivated in Britain for the wine press. 



GRAPE. 75 

but its culture is now confined to the garden as a dessert 
fruit ; and they have in that country not only the best varie- 
ties, but they grow the fruit to a larger size, and of a higher 
flavour, than is done any where else in the world; this ia 
owing to the perfection of their artificial climates, and the 
great attention paid to soil and subsoil, and other points of 
culture. The fruit is produced in some vineries during every 
month in the year ; and in the London markets (generally) 
it is to be had in the highest degree of perfection from March 
to January. 

The vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bottom ; 
and in such as are rich and deep it will grow luxuriantly, 
and produce abundance of large fruit; in shallow, dry, 
chalky, or gravelly soils, it will produce less fruit, but of 
better flavour. Speedily recommends dung reduced to a 
black mould, the dust and dirt of roads, the offal of animals, 
or butchers' manure, horn shavings, old rags, shavings of 
leather, bone dust, dung of deer and sheep, human excre- 
ment when duly meliorated by time, a winter's frost, and 
repeatedly turning over. Abercrombie says that dung out 
of a cow-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the 
vine ; he recommends drainings from dunghills to be used 
over the ground once in ten or fourteen days from the time 
the buds rise, till the fruit is set, and that fresh horse dung 
be spread over the ground in autumn as a manure, and also 
to protect the roots from the inclemency of the weather ; 
some, however, disapprove of manuring high, as being cal- 
culated to produce wood rather than fruit.* 

The general mode of propagating the vine is by cuttings, 
either a foot or more long, with a portion of two year old 



* It has been proved by repeated experiments that the best manure for 
vines, is the branches pruned from the vines themselves, cut into small 
pieces and mixed with the soil by means of a garden hoe. Dr. Liebig, in 
his 'Organic Chemistry,' mentions several instances of vines being Kept in 
a thriving condition for from ten to thirty years by the trimmings of vines 
alone. The discovery was made by poor peasants, who could not afford 
to buy the ordinary kinds of manure. 



76 GRAPE. 

wood, or short, with only one bud, or one bud and a half 
joint, &c. Vines are to be had at the nurseries, propagated 
either from layers, cuttings, or eyes ; but plants raised from 
cuttings are generally preferred ; many are of opinion that 
it is a matter of indifference from which class the choice is 
made, provided the plants are well rooted, and in good 
health, and the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility 
is to select the plants in the nursery a year before wanted, 
and to order them to be potted in very large pots. Varie- 
ties without end are raised from seed, and it is thought that 
by propagating from the seed of successive generations, 
some sorts may ultimately be procured, better adapted for 
ripening their fruit in the open air than now known. A 
seedling vine, carefully treated, will show blossoms in its 
fourth or fifth year ; say that it produces a fair specimen of 
its fruit in the sixth year, then a new generation may be 
obtained so often ; but seed ought never to be sown, except 
for experiment. 

The following method of grafting the vine is recommended 
by Mr. Loudon : Select a scion with one good eye ; pare it 
beneath the eye and on the opposite side, in the form of a 
wedge. Select from the stock to be grafted on, a branch of 
the preceding year ; cut this off a little above the second 
eye from its base ; then with a sharp knife split it down the 
centre nearly to the old wood. Out of each half of the 
stock, but chiefly out of that half which is opposite the bud, 
pare off as much as is necessary to make it fit the scion, 
which must be inserted with its eye opposite to the eye 
which is left on the top of the stock, and bandaged together 
carefully with bass matting. Some use grafting clay, others 
composition ; in either case, a small hole for the eye of the 
graft, and another hole for the eye left on the stock, must 
be left open. Tie over a little moss, to be occasionally sprin- 
kled with H'ater. It is very essential that the young shoot 
on the top of the stock should be allowed to grow for ten or 
fifteen days ; then cut it off, leaving only one eye and one 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF GRAPES, 77 

leaf to draw the sap and keep alive the circulation, till both 
scion and stock are perfectly united. 

WilHam Robert Prince, in his Treatise on the Vine, pub- 
lished in 1830, enumerated about five hundred and fifiy va- 
rieties under cultivation, in the vineyard attached to the Lin- 
ngean Botanic Garden at Flushing, including about ninety 
American native Grapes ; but no sufficient evidence has as 
yet been exhibited of the foreign varieties flourishing in 
vineyards here, equal to what they do in Europe. Mr. Lou- 
bat once attempted to establish a vineyard on Long Island, 
which he abandoned after six years' arduous exertion. The 
following have been found to succeed best in private shel- 
tered gardens in the vicinity of New- York : the Sweetwater, 
the Chasselas, the Muscadine, the White Tokay, the Black 
Hambuigh, the Blue Cortiga, the Miller Burgundy, the 
Austrian Muscadel, the Messher, the Morilon, the Black 
Prince, Blanc, and some excellent seedling sorts from the 
imported Lisbon Grapes. To plant a vinery for a full crop 
of good Grapes of various flavours, take a white and red 
Muscat, a white and red, or black Muscadel, a white Raisin 
Grape, a white and red Hamburgh, a Stilwell's, and red 
Sweetwater, a white and red Nice, a black Damascus, a 
red Syracuse, and a black Constantia. The above list con- 
tains some of the most esteemed table Grapes of all colours 
and flavours, which will ripen in succession. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NATIVE 
GRAPES. 

Alexander, Constantia of Vevay, Madeira of York, Pa., Winne, Schuyl- 
kill Muscadel. A good wine fruit, of large size, blackish colour, and ob- 
long form; very juicy and pungent ; a ^reat and sure bearer. 

Bland, Bland's Madeira, Bland's Virginia, Mazzci, Po:rel. A pale 
red grape, of large size and round shape, rather musky, but the juice is 
sweet and lively. 

Carolina Perfumed. A medium sized fruit, of purple colour and 
rather an unpleasant odour; it is, however, considered as well adapted for 
wine, being rather pungent, very juicy, and pulpless. 

7* 



78 GRAPE. 

Catawba, Red Muncy, To Kalon. A fine variety, above medium size. 
of darii red colour, in form round, in flavour delicious for the dessert, and 
higlily productive ; it ripens soon after tlie Isabella. 

Cunningham. A native of Prince Edward's county, Virginia; the ber- 
ries are round, black, of medium size, and not liable to rot ; they are said 
to resemble, in taste, the Nigrillo of Madeira, and are considered good for 
wine as well as for the table. 

Elsinburg. Fruit small, round, of purple colour, and delicate musky 
flavour, without pulp ; good for wine, and as a dessert fruit ; the vine is 
very hardy and productive. 

Hide's Eliza. Berries large, oval, of violet colour, and excellent fla- 
vour ; alike suited for the dessert and for wine. 

Isabella. A well known and highly estimated variety. Fruit large, 
oval, of rich purple colour, covered with bloom ; skin, under good cultiva- 
tion, thin ; flesh juicy, rich, and vinous ; an excellent dessert fruit. 

LuFEOKOUGH. A sweet fox grape of large size and round shape; skin, 
dark purple ; pulp dissolving in a saccharine musky juice. 

Maddox. a good wine grape, not liable- to rot ; it is of medium size ; 
roundish ; of a brownish red colour, and a brisk vinous flavour. 

Norton's Virginia Seedling, Longwortfi s Ohio. An early fruit of 
medium size and dark purple colour; it ripens in September; makes ex- 
cellent wine ; it is also generally approved as a dessert fruit. 

Pond's Seedling. A large purple grape of roundish form, thin skin, 
and of rich pungent flavour ; adapted for wine, as well as for the table. 

Scuppernong. This species is very prolific; the berries are large, round- 
ish, and of a colour varying from brick red to black ; makes peculiar Mus- 
cat wine, and is highly esteemed as a dessert fruit. 

Warren, Madeira. A round fruit of medium size and dark purple co- 
lour ; it is considered by some as the most luscious of all native grapes ; it 
makes excellent wine. 

Woodson. A small round black Virginian variety, from Prince Edward's 
county; it is celebrated as a very proper fruit for the manufacture of 
sparkling wine ; it ripens later than most other varieties, but yields abun- 
dantly. 

The above list comprises the most esteemed species of 
Native Grapes under cultivation ; the greater part of vi^hich, 
with the best of the foreign varieties, may be purchased at 
the Commercial Garden and Nursery of Messrs. Parsons & 
Co., Flushing, Long Island, near New- York. 

Previous to planting vines, care should be taken that the 
ground be well pulverized and prepared for some distance 
around for the roots to spread. The soil should be deep and 
dry, and some rich compost, or vegetable mould, should be 
used around the roots in filling in ; a handful or two of wet 



GRAPE. 79 

S'hes to each plant is recommended by Mr. Loubat, as bene- 
ticial ; and he recommends the planting to be done in the 
month of March, or early in April. 

There are various methods adopted in training and prun- 
ing the vine ; and it appears impossible to lay down rules 
to suit eveiy cultivator. The vine having, like other trees, 
a tendency to produce its most vigorous shoots at the ex- 
tremities of the branches, and particularly so at those which 
are situated highest, it generally happens, when it is tiained 
high, that the greater portion of the fruit is borne near the 
top ; and it has been observed, that the fruit produced on 
the vigorous shoots, which naturally grow at the extremities 
of the long branches, is generally more abundant, and of 
finer quality than that produced on the short lateral ones, 
from which circumstance, high training seems to be the best 
calculated for private gardens. 

In some partb of Italy, vines are cultivated together with 
Mulberry trees, and are allowed to mingle and hang in fes- 
toons ; thus silk and wine are produced on the same spot ; 
and it is considered that when vines are allowed to grow 
over trees, on the side of a house, or on bowers, or extended 
on tall poles, without much trimming, they will produce more 
fruit, and are not so liable to mildew. 

Dr. G-. W. Chapman, of New- York, having paid some 
attention to the cultivation of native Grapes, observes, that 
the vine, in its natural state, seldom or never throws out 
bearing shoots until it reaches the top of the tree on which 
it ascends, when the branches take a horizontal or descend- 
ing position. From this fact he considers horizontal training 
preferable to that in the fan shape. From the experiments 
he has made, he has found that the shoots coming from those 
parts of the branches bent downward, are more productive 
than from those ascending ; he considers deep digging 
around the vine, even to the destruction of some of the ex- 
tending roots, as calculated to promote the growth of more 
fruit and less wood, than if allowed to spread near the sur- 



80 GRAPE. 

face ; and he disapproves stopping the shoots before the fruit 
until early in July. 

Mr. William Wilson, of Clermont, leaves his foreign vines 
their whole length at thei time of trimming in October. In 
November, they are laid on the ground at full length, fastened 
down with pins, and covered lightly with earth ; in this state 
they lie all the winter. In April, as soon as the weather 
will permit, they are uncovered, and left lying on the ground 
ten or twelve days : by the first of May, the vines are trained 
to stakes or poles of the length of ten feet and upward; 
and by the middle of June the stakes are entirely covered 
by new shoots of the vine, and with plenty of fruit, which 
ripens in September. Mr. W. says, that until he pursued 
his present course, his fruit was frequently blasted and mil- 
dewed, but that he has now vines twenty or thirty feet long, 
which run up the fruit trees adjoining; others, being carried 
up eight or ten feet, are stretched horizontally. It is seldom 
he gathers fruit within three or four feet of the ground, and 
he has never any blasted or infected with mildew ; he keeps 
the ground cultivated by frequent hoeing ; but he says he 
has used no manure for ten years or more. 

Edward H. Bonsall has a vineyard of American Grapes 
at Germantown, Pa., in a high state of cultivation. In page 
331 of Prince's Treatise on the Vine, is a letter to the au- 
thor, containing some valuable information, from which the 
following is extracted as appropriate to our subject. 

Mr. Bonsall's vineyard is situated between the Schuylkill 
and Delaware Rivers, four miles from the former, and eight 
from the latter, at an elevation of three hundred feet above 
their level; has an aspect facing S. S. E., with a substratum 
of light isinglass soil, and seems well suited to the purpose. 
He says, " from my experience, both on my premises and at 
other places, it is my opinion that we should reject almost 
all the foreign varieties, especially where our object in culti- 
vating them is to make wine." He has upward of thirty 
varieties of American vines under cultivation ; he recom- 



QRAPE. SI 

mends preparing the ground by ploughing with two ploughs 
with strong teams, one immediately behind the other, in the 
same furrow, each of them set deep ; and after the plough- 
ing is completed, to be harrowed thoroughly. Then in the 
direction the rows are intended to be planted, parallel fur- 
rows are run across the field, at the distance of eight feet 
from each other ; these are afterward crossed at right an- 
gles, five feet asunder. In the opening, at the intersection 
of these furrows, cuttings from nine to twelve inches long 
are planted, and arranged with a view to the vines being, 
when grown, at distances of four by seven feet from each 
other ; to this end, he frequently plants two cuttings in a 
place, some of which are used to fill up with, in case of 
failures. He says, that in 1829 he planted in nursery beds 
from two to thi^ee thousand cuttings as late as the middle of 
April to the middle of May, with better success than at any 
previous time. " In this case the slips should be kept in a 
cool, damp place, where vegetation may be held in check. 
To insure their freshness, sprinkle them occasionally with 
water. Previous to planting cut them a proper length, and 
place them with their lower ends three or four inches in 
water, in a tub above ground, where they may soak three or 
four days. At this season the temperature will be likely to 
be such as to spur vegetation at once into healthy and 
vigorous action. The autumn, or early in the spring, is 
preferable for rooted plants. In the autumn of the first 
year, after the frost has killed the unripe part of the young 
shoots, they should be pruned down to the mature, fiim 
wood, and then with a hoe hilled over with the surrounding 
soil, which will completely protect them through the winter. 
If left without protection the first winter, many of them will 
perish." 

Mr. Bonsall says, his mode of training, as far as he is 
awai-e of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he describes 
as follows : " I take chestnut posts, the thickness of large 
fence rails, seven feet in length ; these I plant along the 



82 GRAPE. 

rows, at distances of ten feet from each other, and at such 
a depth as to leave five feet above the surface of the earth ; 
then taking three nails to each post, and driving them to 
within half an inch of their heads, the first two and a half 
feet from the ground, a second midway between that and 
the top, and the third near the top, I attach No. 11 iron wire 
(one degree soft is best) firmly to one of the nails in the 
end post, pass on to the next, and stretching it straight and 
tight, give it one turn round a nail in the same line as the 
one to which it was first attached. Having in this manner 
extended it along the three courses, the whole length of the 
row, my trellis is formed. I have had a portion of my vine- 
yard fitted up in this way for three years, and experience 
has confirmed the superior fitness of the plan. It is not its 
least recommendation, that it possesses in a degree the cha- 
racter of labour-saving machinery. A very important and 
extensive labour-making portion of the operations in the 
vineyard during the summer, is the attention required by the 
growing shoots to keep them properly trained up. They 
grow and extend themselves so rapidly, that where the strips 
of the trellis are lath, or where poles are used to support 
vines, unless very closely watched, they fall down in every 
direction, in a very unsightly and injurious manner. Here 
the wire being small, the tendrils or claspers eagerly and 
firmly attach themselves to it, and thus work for themselves 
in probably two-thirds of the instances where the attention 
of the vigneron would otherwise be reqixired. There is a 
free access afforded to the sun and air, and no hold for the 
wind to strain the frame," &c. Mr. Bonsall says farther, " I 
shall not enter into a minute description of my manner of 
pruning, but may just say, that after the vines have attained 
a full capacity for production, (say five years from the cut- 
ting,) my view is to prepare them for bearing an average of 
fifty clusters to each, leaving several shoots of from three to 
five joints on a vine for this purpose. When fresh pruned, 
they will not be more than four feet high, at their greatest age." 



Dr. R. T. Underbill, of New- York, has a vineyard at 
Croton Point, near Sing Sing, where, after having sunk 
thousands of dollars in attempting to raise the most cele- 
brated foreign varieties, he abandoned the project as vision- 
ary, and commenced planting the Isabella Grape in 1832, 
and the Catawba in 1835. Mr. Underbill has now upward 
of twenty acres of these grapes, chiefly of the former, un- 
der the most successful cultivation. He says that the Isa- 
bella Grape ripens two or three weeks earlier than the Ca- 
tawba, and that these two varieties are, in his estimation, the 
best adapted for general purposes ; the former yielding with 
him a more valuable crop than any other with which he is ac- 
quainted. He says that the quality of this fruit has improved 
very much within a few years, the clusters and berries being 
much larger and sweeter ; and that they are capable of still 
greater improvement by high cultivation. 

The following extracts are from Dr. Underbill's commu- 
nication to the editor of the ' Cultivator,' published January 
28th, 1843 : 

" In this latitude, (south of the highlands of the Hudson,) 
I find that the Isabella Grape ripens quite as well when 
planted in a level field, protected from the north and west 
winds by woods or hedges, as on declivities. Several of my 
vineyards are thus located, and, as far as I can perceive, the 
fruit ripens at about the same time, and is of the same 
quality as those planted on steep side-hills. I think, how- 
ever, that north of the highlands, side-hills would be prefer- 
able. To prepare the ground for a vineyard, the best way 
is to turn over the whole of the surface soil from fifteen to 
eighteen inches in depth, early in the spring, by ploughing 
twice in the same furrow. This will place the richest pait 
of the soil in a position where it will give the greatest sup- 
ply of nourishment to the vines. Few vineyards in this 
countiy have been prepai^ed in this way; but the cost is so 
small and the advantages so great, that it should be do'iie 
wherever there are no rocks or large stones to prevent it."' 



84 GRAPE. 

The following observations on the destruction of the Rose" 
bug, were also published in the ' Cultivator,' Sept. 13, 1842 : 

" I observed that when the rose-bugs first appeared on the 
vines, they were so feeble as to be unable to fly even for a 
few yards. Having surmounted all other difficulties, I was 
determined not to be defeated in the vineyard cultivation 
of the Grape by this insect, and consequently resorted to 
the following means for its destruction. I directed my men 
to take each a cup, with a little water in it, and go through 
the vineyards every morning, removing every bug from the 
vines ; and this was done quite rapidly by passing the cup 
under the leaf and merely touching it, when the bugs in- 
stantly dropped, and were received in the cup containing the 
water. When the cup was full, they were soon destroyed 
by pressing the foot upon them on a hard surface. This 
plan was persevered in every morning as long as a bug could 
be found, and was attended with such success, that they 
have given me very little trouble since. I also tried plough- 
ing my vineyards just before winter set in, so as to expose 
to the weather the insect in the larvae state, which will 
certainly destroy the young tribe that have not descended 
below the reach of the plough. For two years past the 
number has been so small that I have omitted this process 
for their destruction. — R. T: Underhill." 

Although the man of taste and capacity for improving on 
the improvements of others, may have gleaned ideas from 
the above extracts, sufficient to enable him to cultivate the 
vine in his own garden, it may be necessary to direct the 
reader's attention to the different methods of cultivating this 

o 

excellent fruit in varied situations. 

A vine may be trained horizontally under the coping of 
a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and the borders 
in an east, southeast, and southern aspect of large gaidens, 
may be furnished with a variety of sorts, which will ripen 
in great perfection, without encumbering the borders ; or 
the plants may be trained low, like currant bushes; iu 



GRAPE. 



85 



which case, three or more shoots, eighteen inches or two feet 
in length, may diverge from the stem near the ground, to 
supply young wood annually for bearing. The summer 
pruning consists in removing shoots which have no fruit, or 
are not required for the succeeding season ; and in topping 
fruit-bearing shoots, and also those for succeeding years, 
when inconveniently long and straggling. For as, by this 
mode, the shoots destined to bear are all cut into three or 
four eyes at the winter pruning, no inconvenience arises from 
their throwing out laterals near the extremities, which top- 
ping will generally cause them to do. 

In training vines as standards, the single stem at the bot- 
tom is not allowed to exceed six or eight inches in height, 
and from this two or three shoots are trained, or tied to a 
sinde stake of three or four feet in length. These shoots 
bear each two or three bunches, within a foot or eighteen 
inches of the ground, and they are annually succeeded by 
others which spring from their base, that is, from the crown 
or top of the dwarf main stem. This is the mode practised 
in the North of France and in Germany ; in the South of 
France and Italy, the base or main stem is often higher, and 
furnished with side shoots, in order to afford a great supply 
of bearing wood, which is tied to one or more poles of 
greater height. The summer pruning, in this case, is nearly 
the same as in the last. In the winter pruning, the wood 
that has boi-ne is cut out, and the new wood shortened, in 
cold situations, to three or four eyes, and in warmer places, 
to six or eight eyes. 

Nicol observes, that " Most of the summer pruning of 
vines may be performed with the fingers, without a knife, 
the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off, and tliose 
to be shortened, being Httle, are readily pinched asunder." 
After selecting the shoots to be trained for the production of 
a crop next season, and others necessary for filUng the trelli.s 
from the bottom, which shoots should generally be laid in 
at die distance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other, 

S 



P6 GRAPE. 

rub off all the others ttiat have no clusters, and shorten those 
that have, at one joint above the uppermost cluster. For 
this purpose, go over the plants every three or four days 
till all the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters, at the 
same time rubbing off any w^ater shoots that may rise from 
the wood. 

Train in tlie shoots to be retained, as they advance. If 
there be an under trellis, on which to train the summer 
shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in length, or when 
the Grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that the fruit may 
enjoy the full air and light as it advances toward maturity. 
Such of these shoots as issue from the bottom, and are to 
be shortened in the winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for 
the production of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped 
when they have grown to the length of four or five feet. 
Others that are intended to be cut down to about two yards, 
and which issue at different heights, may be stopped when 
they have run three yards, or ten feet, less or more accord- 
ing to their sti'ength. And those intended to be cut at or 
near the top of the trellis, should be trained a yard or two 
down the back, or a trellis may be placed so as to form an 
arbour ; or they may be placed to run right or left a few feet 
on the uppermost wire. 

The stubs or shoots on which the clusters are placed will 
probably push again after being stopped, if the plants be 
vigorous. If so, stop them again and again ; but after the 
fruit are half grown, they will seldom spring. Observe to 
divest the shoots, in training, of all laterals as they appear, 
except the uppermost on each, in order to provide against 
accidents, as hinted before, in training the newly-planted 
vines. When these shoots are stoppeil, as directed above, 
they will push again. Allow the lateral that pushes, to run 
a few joints, and then shorten it back to one, and so on as it 
jjushes, until it stops entirely. When the proper shoots got 
ripened nearly to the top, the whole may be cut back to the 
originally shortened part, or to one joint above it, if there 



■'^. 



GRAPE. y7 

be reason to fear that the uppermost bud of the proper shoot 
will start. 

Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves as they 
appear, as such will sometimes occur in continued hazy 
weather, and be particularly cautious not to injure the leaf 
that accompanies the bunch, for if that is lost, the fruit will 
be of little value. 

" Every one of penetration and discernment," Nicol ob- 
serves, " will admit the utility of thinning the berries on 
bunches of Grapes, in order that they may have room to 
swell fully ; and, farther, that of supporting the shoulders of 
such clusters of the large growing kinds as hang loosely, 
and require to be suspended to the trellis or branches, in 
order to prevent the bad effects of damp or mouldiness in 
very moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, 
Royal Muscadine, Raisin, St. Peter's, Syrian, Tokay, and 
others, should have their shoulders suspended to the trelHs, 
or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the 
berries are about the size of garden peas. At the same time, 
the clusters should be regularly thinned out with narrow 
pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third 
part of the berries. The other close-growing kinds, as the 
Frontignacs, Muscats, &c., should likewise be moderately 
thinned, observing to thin out the small seedless berries only 
of the Muscadine, Sweet Water, and flame-coloured Tokay. 
In this manner, handsome bunches and full-swelled berries 
may be obtained ; but more so, if the clusters or over-bur- 
dened plants be also moderately thinned away. Indeed, 
cutting off the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants over- 
loaded, and pushing weak wood, are the only means by which 
to cause them to produce shoots fit to bear fruit next year ; 
and this should be duly attended to, so long as the future 
welfare of the plants is a matter of importance." 

The preceding observations may be considered as falling 
short of what may be expected on the cultivation of so im- 
portant a fruit as the Grape ; but it is introduced into this 



88 MULBERRY. 

book only as a dessert fruit. The modes of training in 
vineyards and vineries are alike suited to the garden. Low 
training may be practised in borders or hedge rows, in large 
gardens ; and high training in sheltered situations, on high 
trellises or arbours. By proper management, the vine may 
be elevated to the middle story of a house by a single stem, 
and afterwards trained to a great height according to the 
taste of the proprietor. As the vine is often trained near 
buildings, an awning inay be conveniently formed over the 
tops so as to admit of fumigating the vine with smoke from 
tobacco, &c., as may be necessary in the summer season ; 
or a sort of movable tent may be made of light boards, and 
cheap glazed linen, or an old sail, &c., capable of covering 
the vine while a smoke is created underneath ; this will 
effectually destroy such insects as may annoy the vine, and 
may prevent mildew and other diseases. 



MULBERRY. 

MuRiER. JVEorus. 

There are several species of the Morus or Mulberry. 
The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves to feed 
silkworms, though in some parts of Spain, and in Persia, 
they are said to prefer the Black Mulberry. In China, it 
appears that both sorts are grown for this purpose. The 
most esteemed variety of the white is grown in Italy, and 
especially in Lombardy, with vigorous shoots, and much 
larger leaves than the other. The Morus mnUicanlis is cul- 
tivated in many parts of France, and is by some preferred 
to all other varieties. It is said that a less quantity of foliage 
from this variety will satisfy the silkworms. The late An- 
drew Parmentier, Esq., was the means of introducing seve- 
ral choice varieties from that country ; and our nurserymen 
in general, have of late years, turned their attention to the 



MULBERRY. 80 

cultivation of such as are best adapted to silkworms, which 
are sold at moderate prices. 

In France, the white Mulberry is grown as pollard Elms 
are in England. In Lombardy, it is growti in low, marshy 
ground. In China, it is also grown in moist, loamy soil, 
and both there and in the East Indies, as low bushes, and 
the plantations rooted up and renewed every three or four 
years. In many parts, when the leaves are wanted for the 
worms, they are stripped off" the young shoots, which are 
left naked on the tree ; in other places, the shoots are cut 
off", which is not so injurious to the tree, while the points of 
the shoots, as well as the leaves, are eaten by the worms. 

The plants are sometimes raised from seed, and one ounce 
of seed will produce five thousand trees, if sown in rich 
loamy soil in the latter end of April, or early in May ; but 
the young plants will require protection the first winter ; they 
are more commonly propagated by layers and cuttings, put 
down in the spring. The Italian variety is frequently grafted 
on seedling stocks of the common sort, in order to pi'eserve 
it from degenerating. In the East Indies, the plants are 
raised from cuttings, three or four of which are placed 
together where they are finally to remain. 

But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit ; and in 
England the black and red kinds are in great esteem, and 
much cultivated. The fruit of the white Mulberry is white, 
and less acid than that of the black species. The black is 
naturally a stronger tree than the other ; the fruit is of a 
dark, blackish red, and of an agreeable aromatic and acid 
flavour. The red Mulberry has black shoots, rougher leaves 
than the black Mulberry, and a dark, reddish fruit, longer 
than the common sort, and of a very pleasant taste. The 
fruit of the yellow Mulberry is very sweet and wholesome, 
but not much eaten, excepting by birds ; the timber, how- 
ever, is valuable, from its abounding in a slightly glutinous 
milk of a sulphurous colour, and is known in Europe under 
the name of fustic wood, for dying a yellow colour. 

8* 



no MULBERRY. 

In Russia, the fruit uf the JVForus tariarica is eaten fresh, 
conserved, or dried ; a wine and a spirit are also made from 
tliem, but the berries are said to be of an insipid taste. 

All the species of the Morus are remarkable for putting 
out their leaves late, so that when they appear, gardeners 
may safely set out their green-house plants, taking it for 
granted that all danger from frost is over ; fiom this circum- 
stance, plantations of Mulberry trees may be made in this 
country in the spring of the year with greater safety. 

The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little shoots of 
the same year, which arise on last year's wood and on spurs 
from the two-year-old wood ; in both stages, mostly at the 
ends of the shoots and the branches. In pruning, thin out 
iiregular crossing branches, but never shorten the young 
wood, on which fruit is produced. If any of the dwarfish 
kinds are cultivated as espaliers for their fruits, cut so as to 
bring in a partial succession of new wood every year, and 
a complete succession once in two years, taking the old bar- 
ren wood out, as may be necessary. As the blossom buds 
cannot be i-eadily distinguished from others in the winter, 
the best period for pruning is when the blossoms first become 
visible in the spring. 

There is another genus of plants, known as the Paper 
Mulberry, which is very ornamental, called Broussonetia 
papyrifera; though a low tree, it has vigorous shoots, fur- 
nished with two large leaves ; the fruit, which is small, is 
surrounded with long purple hairs, changing to a black pur- 
ple colour when ripe, and full of juice. " In China and 
Japan, it is cultivated for the sake of the young shoots, from 
the bark of which the inhabitants of the Eastern countries 
make paper. The bark being separated from the wood, is 
Kteeped in water, the former making the whitest and best 
paper. The bark is next slowly boiled, tlien washed, and 
afterward put upon a wooden table, and beat into a pulp. 
This pulp being put in water, separates like grains of meal. 
An infusion of rice, and the root of manhiot, are next added 



NECTARIiVE. ©I 

to it. From the liquoi so pi epared, the sheets of paper are 
poured out one by one, and when pressed the operation is 
finished." 

" The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to be used 
in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or paper. The 
finest and whitest cloth worn by the principal people at 
Otaheite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark 
of this tree. The cloth of the Bread Fruit tree is inferior 
in whiteness and softness, and worn chiefly by the common 
people," 



NECTARINE. 
Pechera Fruit lisse, 00 Brognons. Amygdalus nectarina. 

The varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in every 
respect, except that the skin is perfectly smooth, of a waxen 
appearance, and the flesh generally more firm ; although of 
the same genus as the Peach, which is so plentiful in this 
country, the fruit of the Nectarine is quite a rarity, and sel- 
dom appears in our markets. There are seventy-two varie- 
ties cultivated in the Horticultural Garden of London under 
name. 

It is generally allowed that their failure here is occasioned 
by the attacks of insects. The most efficacious method that 
I have heard of for securing any thing like a crop of Nec- 
tarines, is to fumigate the trees in the evening, when the air 
is calm and serene, at the season when the fruit is ready to 
set. Tobacco is the most effectual antidote for these insects ; 
but a friend of mine collected a quantity of salt hay that 
had been used for his Spinach the preceding winter ; vidth 
this he created a smoke, first on one side of his plantation, 
and afterward on the other, by which means he obtained a 
good supply of fruit. Our enterprising horticulturist, Mr. 
W. Shaw, has succeeded in gathering fine fruit, by pursuing 
the English plan, namely, in training his trees against a ckse 



92 NECrUlINE. 

fence ; and it has been discovered by others, that the Nee- 
tarine, like the Grape vino, will yield best in sheltered situ- 
ations. That eminent horticultuiist, Mr. David Thomas, 
observes, that "A vast quantity of fruit is annually destroyed 
by the Curculio, which causes the Plum, Apricot, and Nec- 
tarine piematurely to drop from the tree. To prevent this 
loss, let the tree, after the blossoms fall, be frequently shaken 
by a coi'd connected with a swinging door, or with a work- 
ing pump-handle, &c. ; or let the bugs be jarred from the 
tree and killed. Or keep geese enough in the fruit garden 
to devour all the damaged fruit as it falls. We know that 
this last method is infallible." 

As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees, for 
fear of disturbing the fruit, such are here reminded, that if 
the blossoms set more fruit than can be supported, it will not 
come to full perfection, and the trees may be injured in their 
future bearing ; for these reasons, when fruit sets too thick, 
it should be thinned in an early stage of its growth. 

The Nectarine, as also the Peach tree, is subject to injury 
by an insect different fiom the Curculio species, which feeds 
otn the sap beneath the bark, principally near the surface of 
the earth ; but if not checked, will commit ravages on the 
trunk and root, so as eventually to destroy the tree. The 
egcr is supposed to be first deposited in the upper part of the 
tree ; and in the months of June and July, it becomes a very 
small maggot, which drops to the ground, and approaches the 
tree near the surface. If the ground be kept clear around 
the roots, as it ought always to be, the worm can readily be 
detected by a small speck of gum, which appears on the tree 
after it has made its entrance, which gumminess will increase 
in quantity as it progresses ; but if the trees are thoroughly 
examined about once a week or ten days, and the guin, 
wherevei' found, removed by means of a small knife or 
pointed wire, the worm may be at once defeated from mak- 
ing any havoc on the trees. An orchard of several acres 
may be kept free from worms by going over it a few times. 



NECTARINE. 



After a shower of latiL is a good time, as the gum can then be 
more easily discovered ; and when it is removed, the wound 
will soon heal up, and the danger is over, provided the ground 
be kept cultivated around the trees, and the collar, or that 
part from which emanate the main roots, be near the surface. 

This is an important precaution, and should be attended 
to at the time of transplanting all descriptions of trees and 
smaller plants ; because deep planting prevents the essential 
circulation of the juices of plants in their regular and natural 
courses, and, consequently, causes disease and premature 
death ; and it must be admitted, that from the circumstance 
of this fruit being generally raised on standard trees, and in 
a light soil, our cultivators are apt to plant too deep ; and 
thus act contrary to sound judgment and philosophy, with a 
view to save the trouble and expense of staking or otherwise 
supporting their newly-planted trees, which precaution is 
absolutely necessary to their preservation, even in less tem- 
pestuous climates, and in stiff as well as in light soil. 

Saltpetre dissolved in the proportion of one pound to five 
gallons of water, and applied round the stems and roots of 
trees, as recommended for plants in general, is, in my opin- 
ion, one of the best remedies for the destruction of various 
kinds of insects ; it is, moreover, allowed by modern and 
learned physiologists to contain the most essential nutriment 
to all descriptions of trees or smaller plants, when judiciously 
used. Other remedies are recommended to be applied for 
the destruction of these insects around fruit trees, besides 
those previously mentioned ; as, dissolved potash, coal tar, suU 
phur and lime-mortar mixed, vinegai', soapsuds, &c. Culture, 
upon correct principles, will, however, in general operate 
not only as a radical cure, but as a preventive to all defects 
in trees and plants; which, to be healthy and productive, 
should be so managed that the sap and nutrimental juices 
can circulate through every pore which nature has designed 
for their perpetuity. (See article on the choice of Fruit 
Trees in the Nursery ; also, article Peach.) 



94 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. 

The Nectarine is generally budded on stocks of the same 
species, or on the Peach or Plum, two or three years old. 
Knight recommends growing Almond stocks for the finer 
kinds of Nectarines and Apricots, as likely to prevent the 
mildew, and as being allied to the Peach. Dubreuil recom- 
mends a Plum stock for clayey soils, and the Almond for 
such as are Hght, chalky, or sandy. The same opinion is 
held by the Montreal gardeners. The Flemish nurserymen 
graft both the Peach and Nectarine on the Myrabella Plum, 
a very small cherry-shaped fruit. 

The budding may be performed in July or August, in the 
side of the stock, which will, if properly managed, shoot the 
following spring, and attain the length of three or four feet 
the first year. After the budded trees have ripened their 
first year's shoots, they may either be planted where they are 
to remain, or retained in the nursery for two, three, or four 
years, till in a bearing state. Whether the plants be removed 
mto the orchard at a year old, or remain in the nursery, the 
first shoots from the bud must be headed down in a judicious 
manner, in order to promote the most desirable form. In 
annual piuning, thin out superfluous branches and dry wood, 
and shorten the bearing shoots. 

Nectarines may be trained to a close fence, or wall, iu 
private gardens ; in which case, such plants should be chosen 
as are budded low. (See article Apricot.) 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. 

FREESTONE NECTARINES. 

Aromatic- A middle sized, rather globular fruit, skin pale straw colour 
with deep red or brown nest the sun ; flesh pale straw, but red at the 
stone ; juice of a rich vinous flavour ; ripe early in August. 

Boston, Lewises Seedling. A fine native variety, raised by Mr. Lewis, 
of Boston; fruit of medium size; heart-shaped; colour bright yellow, 
rrtottled with red ; flesh yellow, firm, pleasant and peculiar in flavour ; ripe 
iii September. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. 95 

Elruge, Clarevumt, Templets, Vermash of some collections. One of the 
very best and most high flavoured Nectarines ; fruit medium size, of a green 
or pale yellow colour, with violet cheek ; pulp whitish, melting, very 
juicy, rich and high flavoured; ripens early in August. 
■ Fairchild's Early. Fruit very early, but small; of globular shape, 
yellow in the shade, deep scarlet next the sun ; flesh yellow, not juicy, but 
well flavoured ; ripe in July and August. 

Perkins's Sekdlikg. A very large beautiful Nectarine, raised by S. G. 
Perkins, from the Boston, Lewis's Seedling; the form is globular; colour 
bright yellow, with dark crimson on one side ; flesh tender, juicy and high 
flavoured ; ripe in September. 

Pitmaston's Orange. A good sized globular, almost heart-shaped 
fruit, of a rich yellow colour, but dark crimson or purple next the sun ; 
flesh golden yellow, but red next the stone, from which it separates ; it is 
melting, juicy, saccharine and high flavoured; ripe in August. 

Scarlet- A middle sized fruit, somewhat ovate, of a beaiitiful scarlet 
colour next the sun, and pale red on the shaded side ; the flesh separates 
from the stone, and is at maturity in August. 

Vermash, True Vermash. This fruit is rather of small size, and round- 
ish form, tapering towards the eye ; the skin is of a very deep red colour 
next the sun ; and of a greenish hue on the other side ; flesh white, rich 
melting and juicy ; at maturity in Aiigust. "* 

Violet, Violette Hative, Petite Violette Hative, Lord Selsey's Elruge, 
Large Scarlet. Fruit variable in size, generally medium ; pale yellowish 
green, but darkish purple and red next the sun ; flesh melting, juicy, rich 
and excellent; ripe in July and August. 

White, or Flanders Nectarine, New White, Emerso7i's New White, 
Neale's White. A middle sized, roundish, very pale fruit, slightly tinged 
with red next the sun ; flesh tender and juicy, with a fine vinous flavour ; 
ripe in August. 

CLINGSTONES, OR PAVIES, 

Brugnon Violet Musque, Brugnon Musque. Fruit large, of a deep 
red and yellow colour ; skin very smooth ; flesh yellow, but red at the 
stone ; saccharine, vinous, musky ; at maturity in August and September. 

Early Newingtok, Large Black Newington, Lucombe's Seedling. 
Fruit below the middle size, ovate ; skin pale green, and on the sunny side 
of a deep red colour; pulp super-excellent ; considered by some as the 
best of all Nectarines; ripe in August and September. 

Golden. Fruit medium size, of the finest orange colour, delicately and 
beautifully mottled with red next the sun, which gives to it a clear waxen 
appearance ; flesh firm, yellow, pale red at the stone, and has a poignant, 
rich flavour ; ripens in August and September. 

Red Roman, Roman Red- A very excellent Nectarine, of large size ; 
the skin dark red next the sun, and of a yellowish hue on the other side ; 
flesh yellowish, but red next the stone ; it abounds with rich juice when 
fully ripe, in August and September. 

Scarlet Newington, Late Neicington, Sion Hill. This variety is 
much esteemed , the fruit is large, of a beautiful red colour next the sun, and 



96 ORANGE, LEMON, ETC. 

of a fine yellow or ambei uii the other side ; its quality is excellent, being 
rich and juicy ; eariy in Septensber. 

Tawnv iNewington. Fruit large, somewhat ovate; tawny-coloured, 
marbled witii dull red or orange next the sun; flesh pale yellow, but red 
at the stone ; very juicy, sugary, and of the most delicious flavour ; ripens 
in August and September. This, in England, is considered one of the best 
of clingstone Nectarines. 



ORANGE, LEMON, &c. 
Oranger, Citronier, etc. Citrus. 

Notwithstanding this fruit, and also the Lemon, Lime, 
&c., are attainable at all seasons of the year, by supplies 
from our Southern States, the West Indies, and the South 
of Europe, yet the plants are entitled to our notice on ac- 
count of their being so easily cultivated, and from their 
affording an ornament by exhibiting their fruit the whole of 
the year. 

The Orange, as well as others of the same genus, are 
generally cultivated as green-house plants, but may be kept 
in a light room throughout our severe winters, provided the 
temperature is not suffered to be below the freezing point, 
32 degrees. Its recommendations are, handsome evergreen, 
shining, tree-like form ; most odoriferous flowers, and bril- 
liant, fragrant, and delicious fruits, which succeed each other 
perpetually, and are not unfrequently seen on the tree at 
the same time, in two or three stages of growth. A work 
has recently been published at Paris, edited by Messrs. 
Risso and Poiteau, which contains engravings and descrip- 
tions of one hundred and sixty-nine varieties. They are 
arranged as sweet Oranges, of which they describe 42 sorts ; 
bitter and sour Oranges, 32 sorts; Bergamots, 6 sorts; 
Limes, 8 sorts ; Shaddocks, 6 sorts ; Lumes, 12 sorts ; Le- 
mons, 46 sorts ; Citrons, 17 sorts. 

All the species of Citrus endure the open air at Nice, 
Genoa, and Naples ; but at Florence and Milan, and often 



ORANGE, LEMON, ETC. 97 

at Rome, they require protection iluring the winter, and are 
generally planted in conservatories and sheds. In England, 
these trees have been cultivated since 1620 ; they are gene- 
rally planted in conseivatoiies. Loudon says that in the 
south of Devonshire, and particularly at Saltcombe, may be 
seen, in a few gardens, Orange trees that have withstood the 
winter in the open air upward of a hundred years. The 
fruit is as large and fine as any from Portugal. Trees raised 
from seed, and inoculated on the spot, are found to bear the 
cold better than trees imported. 

At Nuneham, near Oxford, are some fine old trees, plant- 
ed under a movable case, sheltered by a north wall. In 
summer, the case is removed, and the ground turfed over, so 
that the whole resembles a native Orange grove. The au- 
thor of this work, being a native of Abingdon, which is 
within three miles of the Eail of Harcourt's estate, has had 
frequent opportunities of tasting the fruit, which he believes 
to be equal to that of warmer climates. At Woodhall, near 
Hamilton, trees of all the species of Citrus are trained against 
the back walls of forcing-houses, and produce large crops of 
fruit. 

Any of the vai'ieties of the Orange, Lemon, Lime, Shad- 
dock, Citron, &c., may be grafted or budded on stocks of the 
common Orange or Lemon ; but the seed of Shaddocks and 
Citrons produce the strongest stocks ; and on these may be 
grafted such kinds as may be needed for a conservatory. 
The most suitable time for budding is July and August; but 
this operation may be performed at any time when the sao 
is in motion. The directions for the management of green- 
house plants, apply also to this family of plants, to which I 
refer my readers. A fiiend of mine, who is a native of 
Rouen, in Noi-mandy, informs me, that a Mr. Valee, of that 
city, succeeds in clearing about twelve thousand francs per 
antmm from the flowers of Orange trees, which are distilled 
for essences, &c. 



98 PEACH. 

PEACH. 

Pecher. Amygdahis Persica. 

It is generally considered that the Peach is of Persian 
origin. In Media, it is deemed unwholesome ; but when 
planted in Egypt, becomes pulpy, delicious, and salubrious. 
It has been cultivated, time immemorial, in most parts of 
Asia ; when it was introduced into Greece, is uncertain. The 
best Peaches in Europe are supposed to be grown in Italy, 
on standards. 

The list of Peaches in the London Catalogue, contains 
about two hundred and fifty-names, fifty of which are deno- 
minated American Peaches. Several attempts have been 
made to class the varieties of Peaches and Nectarines by the 
leaf and flower, as well as the fruit. Mr. Robertson, a nur- 
seryman at Kilkenny, has founded his arrangement on the 
glands of the leaves ; and Mr. George Lindley, of London, 
has, in a peculiarly distinct manner, arranged no fewer than 
one hundred and fifty-five sorts of Peaches and Nectarines 
in well-defined divisions and sections. There are various 
instances on record, (Hort. Trans, vol. i. p. 103,) of both 
fruits growing on the same tree, even on the same branch ; 
and one case has occurred of a single fruit partaking of the 
nature of both. The French consider them as one fruit, 
arranging them in four divisions ; the Fcches, or freestone 
Peaches ; the Peches lisses, or freestone Nectarines, or free- 
stone Peaches ; the Pavies, or clingstone Peaches ; and the 
Brognons, or Nectarines, or clingstone smooth Peaches. 

Although this fruit will thrive in any sweet, pulverized 
soil that is properly prepared, a rich sandy loam is the most 
suitable. Next to the selection and preparation of a suitable 
soil, a choice of good healthy trees is of the utmost import 
ance. The seed for stocks should be selected from the 
vigorous growing young, or middle-aged healthy trees ; and 
the buds should be taken from some of the choicest fruit- 



PKACH. 99 

bearing trees that can be found. Let the stocks be fairly- 
tested before they are budded, and if any infection exist in 
the stocks, or in the vicinity of where the choice of buds 
may fall, reject them if you wish to rear a healthy progeny; 
as more depends upon these particular points than many are 
aware of. 

In this country, the Peach is generally budded on stocks 
of its own kind ; but in England it is often budded on 
damask Plum stocks, and some of the more delicate sorts 
on Apricot stocks, or old Apricot trees cut down ; or on 
seedling Peaches, Almonds, or Nectarines. (See article 
Nectarine.) Cobbett says, " There are thousands of Peach 
trees in England and France that are fifty years old, and 
that are still in vigorous fruitfulness." He attributes the 
swift decay of the Peach tree here to their being grafted on 
stocks of their kind. 

Mr. Michael Floy, of the Harlaem Nursery, in a note, 
page 364 of the American edition of Lindley's Guide to the 
Orchard and Fruit Garden, edited by him, makes the follow- 
ing observations on this subject, which he says are the result 
of thirty years' experience as a nurseryman in the vicinity 
of New- York : 

" In this country Peaches are generally budded on Peach 
stocks. Their growth is very rapid, and they will form a 
tree large enough to transplant from the nursery, the first 
and second year after budding; but notwithstanding the 
rapid growth of our Peaches, and their coming to maturity 
so early, with but little care and trouble, it must at the same 
time be admitted that they too often come to decay with 
almost the same celerity. A question here will naturally 
arise on this subject, what can be done to remedy this ? I 
answer, first, I think the Peach stock is defective; it is not 
sufficiently strong and lasting to make a permanent tree ; 
the roots are soft and delicate, very liable to rot in cold 
heavy ground, particularly if suffered to stand in a sod, or 
where the ground is not kept clean, dry, and manured every 



100 PEACH. 

season. Secondly. Supposing that the trees are planted in 
a warm free soil, (which is the proper soil for the Peach,) 
they are liable to the attacks of the worm, wliich eats into 
their roots, and barks the trees all round, until they com- 
pletely destroy them. No better method of destroying these 
worms has been discovered, than simply digging round the 
trees, and examining the infested plants, and where gum is 
seen oozing out, there the worm may be generally found and 
destioyed. 

" I think an effectual remedy against this intruder may be 
found, by budding Peaches and Nectarines on the common 
bitter Almond Stock. The worm does not like this stock. 
Peaches will take on it, and grow nearly as free as on the 
common Peach stock. Thirdly. The Peach stock causes 
the Peaches and Nectarines to grow too rapidly, making 
very strong shoots, these producing secondary or lateral 
shoots ; and the fruit of the following summer is produced 
on the top of tliese lateral shoots, instead of being produced 
on the principal or first shoots ; this causes naked wood at 
the bottom, and a straggling, unsightly tree, whose branches 
being heavy at the top with the fruit, are broken down by 
high winds. Fowthly. In addition to all this, the trees are 
of late years subject to what has been deemed a disease 
called the yellows, from the circumstance of the trees having 
a yellow and sickly appearance. Much curious philosophy 
has been spent on this subject without arriving at any satis- 
factory conclusion." 

Mr. Floy, after discovering that the Almond stock is 
susceptible of injury from our Northern winter's in extreme 
cold weather, farther r'ecommends the Plum stock in cold 
latitudes, and the Almond for our Southern States. Hear 
him : 

" The Plum stock is undoubtedly the best for Peaches 
and Nectarines in the JS^orthern and Eastern States, but 
especially for open dwarfs or espaliers, for which I give the 
following reasons : First. The Plum stock prevents the 



PEACH. 101 

too rapid growth of the shoots, and causes the principals to 
bear the fruit the following season, instead of producing 
lateral shoots the same season, and causing the tree to be 
more dwarf; the branches strong and fruitful to the bottom 
of the shoot, thereby having more fruit in a smaller compass. 
Secondly. It makes harder and less pithy wood, and enables 
it the better to withstand the cold ; and this may be easily 
proved by cutting the branches of each : the shoot cm the 
Plum stock will be twice as hard and firm as the one on the 
Peach stock ; but, Thirdly, and the most important leason 
is, that the Plum ceases to send up its sap early in autumn, 
causing the Peach to perfect its w^ood before the cold weather 
sets in." 

As the failure of this fruit of late years has elicited con- 
siderable discussion and observation, which increases in 
interest annually, I will offer an exposition of my views on 
the subject, by a comparison between vegetable and animal 
matter, which I humbly conceive bear a striking analogy to 
each other. If the reader should deem my arguments vision- 
ary, or speculative, I would remind him that the grave im- 
portance of the subject fully justifies this or any othei 
attempt at elucidation. 

Having, in article Nectarine, shown the error of deep 
planting all descriptions of trees and plants, I would here 
observe, that a tree brought into a state of disease, by which 
the circulation of its nutrimental juices is impeded, and its 
bark injured, is very similarly situated to a timber post in- 
serted in the soil ; which every one knows will rot between 
earth and air, however sound its other parts may be. 

In venturing a comparison between vegetable and animal 
mattei', I \vould first refer the I'eader to article Chestnut, 
where I have shown that a chestnut tree has been known to 
live over a thousand years ; and that its timber, cut in proper 
season, is supposed to be in durability commensurate wilh 
the age of the gi'owing tree. It is also I'ecorded in history, 
that animal subjects preserved on the Egyptian principle, 

9* 



102 PEACH, 

have been known to keep as long as the most durable tuTi- 
ber; while daily experience shows, that corrupt animal and 
vegetable substances, not only become a prey to the most 
noxious insects and reptiles, but will generate them in incal- 
culable numbers. 

It is also evident, that a tree deprived of its functions or 
means of growing luxuriantly, is in a similar situation to a 
diseased animal. If disease be not checked before the 
juices of the tree become putrid, it will not only die, but will 
contaminate the earth in which it is planted, to the destruc- 
tion of its neighbouring inmates of the garden or field. All 
experienced nurserymen admit this to be the case with dis- 
eased Peach trees, and some have actually abandoned their 
Peach orchards, and chosen fresh ground for new planta- 
tions. 

It is precisely the same with smaller vegetable plants. A 
diseased Cabbage, for instance, by its excremental and cor- 
rupt juices being spent in the ground, will render the culti- 
vation of the same or alhed species a casualty ; and daily 
observation teacheth, that young and thrifty plants often 
fall a prey to worms and reptiles which were generated by 
a previous crop. 

It is, moreover, evident that all those enemies of the veget- 
able family feed on the same descriptions of vegetable mat- 
ter which first generated them ; hence the Peach insects 
feed on its fruit in embryo, as well as in a state at, and even 
beyond, perfection ; the Cabbage worms prey on plants of 
the same genera or species ; and I have no doubt but the 
cotton worms prefer the same description of vegetable mat- 
ter which gave them birth, and that when these insects and 
reptiles cannot obtain the parts which are the most palatable 
to them, or congenial to their nature, they will feed upon 
diseased trees, plants, or any other matter which contain 
similar juices or nutriment. I again repeat, that the best 
security against their depredations is health and soundness. 
A good sound healthy tree, planted and cultivated upon cor- 



PEACH. 103 

rect principles, may be justly considered as invulnerable to 
the attacks of insects and reptiles, as any species of healthy 
animal creatuie in existence. 

As I have been more familiar with the cultivation of veget- 
ables than fruits, I would state farther my views relative to 
the Cabbage tribe. On New- York Island, in the vicinity of 
the city, it is customary with gardeners to cut their Cabbages 
gradually as they are required for market, and often to leave 
their roots standing; these by some are ploughed under, 
where they not only feed, but generate their peculiar species 
of insects. Some gardeners take their roots and leaves to 
the cattle yard or dung heap, and I'eturn them back to the 
garden the ensuing season in the shape of manure. As a 
consequence of such practice, good Cabbages are very sel- 
dom obtained, even after a routine of other crops, for two or 
three years. 

With a view to illustrate the evil of deep planting, I would 
observe farther, that when Cabbage plants are transplanted 
in proper season and on good fresh soil, they generally prove 
uniformly good ; whereas, if it should happen, as it some- 
time does for want of suitable weather, that the plants can- 
not be transplanted until they get crooked and overgrown, 
so as to require deep planting to support them in the soil, 
such plants, like diseased Peach trees, decay first in the 
bark, between earth and air, and then, from being deprived 
of a natural circulation of the vegetable juices, die, and dis- 
charge their putrid matter in the earth, to the destruction of 
such other plants as may be inserted in their stead. I have 
frequently known a land of Cabbage plants filled up half a 
dozen times, and the crop at last scarcely worth gathering, 
whereas, could the plants have been set out while dwarfish, 
and inserted their proper depth in the ground, the cultivator 
would have been rewai'ded a hundred fold. 

I dislike tauiology, but cannot avoid repeating my humble 
opinion, that deep planimg and injudicious culture are the 
causes of most of the diseases and failures of fruit trees j and 



104 PEACH. 

iu this way I account for Peaches being less plentiful than 
they were when left almost to nature, which was the case, I 
am informed, in the beginning of the present century. That 
this malpractice in horticulture is very general, the most 
superficial observer may discover, by comparing the thrifty 
growth of those trees scattered by nature in our highways 
and byways with many of those aided by the art of man. If 
any of my readeis should require proof of my assertions, I 
can show them from the window of the room where this 
article is being written, scores of living, or rather dying evi- 
dences of the evil of deep planting. 

All the varieties of the Peach produce their fruit upon the 
young wood of a year old, the blossom buds rising immedi- 
ately from the eyes of the shoots. The same shoots seldom 
bear after the first yeai', except on some casual small spurs 
on the two years' wood, which is not to be counted upon. 
Hence the trees are to be pruned as bearing entirely on the 
shoots of the preceding year, and a full supply of regular 
grown shoots must be retained for successional bearers. Cut 
out the redundant shoots, and all decayed and dead wood, 
and reduce some of the former bearers, cutting the most 
naked quite away. 

A Peach Orchard may be planted at any time after the 
bud is established, until the trees are three or four years old, 
which may be placed from fifteen to twenty feet from each 
other, or from any other spreading trees. The dwarf kinds 
may be introduced into the kitchen garden, and trained 
against fences, as directed for the Apricot, or as espaliers, 
or dwarf standards. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 105 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 

FREESTONE PEACHES. 

AsTOR. An excellent variety, originating in the city of New-York ; the 
fruit is above medium size; skin pale yellow, with red check ; flesh melt- 
ing and pleasant flavoured ; juice sweet and plentiful ; ripe the latter end 
of August and early in September. 

Bekbs's Hed RART.RIP e, Middltto:rn late Red Rareripe- Fruit very 
large, of oblong shape ; skin nearly white, with a red cheek ; flesh firm, 
juicy, and high flavoured. This variety originated with Joseph Beers, of 
Middletown, New-Jersey ; it ripens there from the middle to the end of 
September, and is represented as a good market fruit. 

Bellk de Vitry, Admirable Tardive, Bellis, Beauty of Vilry. A large 
fruit, of fine red colour next the sun, on the opposite side a yellowish 
white; flesh white, stained with red at the stone ; firm, juicy, sweet, 
vinous and excellent ; ripe early in September. 

Bellegrade, Gala/ide, Violeite Hative, Noire de Montreuil. Smooth 
Leaved Royal George of some. The tree is vigorous and productive ; 
fruit above medium size, globular ; skin greenish yellow, and on the sunny 
Bide rich deep red, with dark purple streaks ; flesh pale yellow, very melt- 
ing, saccharine and juicy; a first rate fruit, early in September. 

BuoN.'vpARTE. A fine early variety, introduced by Joseph Buonaparte, 
and recommended by Caleb R. Smith, of Burlington, New-Jersey, as being 
the best market fruit known at that place ; its colour is red, mottled with 
yellow; flesh melting ; juice sweet and delicious, in August. 

Brevoort's Seedi ing Melteb, Brevoorfs Morris. A superior Peach, 
raised by Henry Brevoort, Esq., of New-York ; skin of a dingy white 
colour, with red cheek; flesh white, firm, rich, and sugary , ripe by the 
middle of August. 

Columbia. Fruit of medium size ; skin rough and thin : colour dull 
red ; flesh yellow, fibrous, similar to a pineapple, juicy and rich. It is 
supposed that this Peach originated with Mr. Cox. It is a singular variety. 

Cooledge's Favourite, Cooledge's early Red Rareripe. A large hand- 
some globular fruit ; skin red, tinged with crimson ; flesh very melting, 
juicy, and of delicious flavour, in August. The tree is vigorous and very 
productive. 

Crawford's Early Melocoton, Early Crawford. Fruit large, oblong; 
skin yellow and red; flesh yellow, juicy, sweet, with an agreeable acidity. 
It originated with Mr. Crawford, Middletown, New-Jersey. 'I'he tree is a 
great bearer, and the fruit is considered one of the most marketable varie- 
ties, in August and September. 

Crawford's Late Malacatune. Fruit very large, round ; skin yel- 
low and red ; flesh yellow, sweet, juicy, and e.xcellent. It is highly esti- 
mated at Middletown for its productiveness and adaptation for market ; in 
September and October. 

Douni.E Montagne, Swn, Eearly Double Mountain, Montauban. A 
iicautifiil and excellent Peach of middle size ; skin greenish white, but soft 
Tf-d. marbled with a deeper red next the sun ; flesh white and meltii;g ; 
juice plentiful and highly flavoured ; ripe in August. 



106 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 

Early ORA^GE, Orange Freestone, Yellow Rareripe, Yellow Malacatmi, 
Golden Rareripe, Early Yelluiv. Fruit under a medium size, inclining to 
tlie oval shape, apex full, with a small tip ; skin greenish yellow ; flesh a 
finR yellow ; juice rich and sweet, but not plentiful ,; ripe in August and 
September. There are several varieties under the same name, some of 
which are inferior to the true Orange Peach. 

Early Royal Geoege. Red Magdalen of Prince. A superior variety, 
of medium size, and rather globular form ; skin yellow, with red cheek; 
flesh melting and delicious ; in August. There are several varieties culti- 
vated under this name, differently described. 

Eastburn's Choice. Fruit large, nearly round ; skin pale yellow, with 
a red blush ; flesh yellowish white ; juice exceedingly pleasant and spright- 
ly ; in September and October. The tree is represented as hardy, luxuri- 
ant and vigorous, by the Editor of Hoffy's Orchardists' Companion of 
Philadelphia, from whence this description is taken. 

Emperor of Russia, Serrated Leaf, New Cut-Leaved Unique- The 
fruit of this species is deeply cleft, one half of it projecting considerably 
beyond the other; the skin is downy, of a brownish yellow and red colour; 
flesh melting ; juice sweet and delicious; towards the end of August. This 
sort was found by Mr. Floy, in New-Jersey, 1S09, and all the stones of this 
fruit are said to produce plants with jagged leaves. 

George the Fourth. An excellent Peach, of medium size and globu- 
lar shape ; of pale yellow colour in the shade, and dark red next the sun ; 
flesh yellow, but red at the stone, from which it separates ; a fruit of very 
superior flavour when dt maturity, which is early in September. It origin- 
ated in the garden of Mr. Gill, Broad-street, New-York, 

Green Nutmeg, Early Anne, Avant Blanche- This early variety is 
said to have originated in Berkshire, England. The fruit is small ; its 
colour yellowish green ; its pulp melting, juicy, of very pleasant flavour, 
and ripens in July and August. Murray's Early Anne is a variety raised 
from the seed of this. It is esteemed for its early maturity. 

Grosse Mignonne, Veloutee de Merlet, Grimwooi^s Royal George, Large 
French Mignonne, Vineuse, according to Lindley ; and the following sync- 
nymes are added by Kenrick : Belle Beaute, Smooth-leaved Royal George, 
Royal Snuverain, Pourpre de Normandie, Royal Kensington, Early Vine- 
yard, Transparent, and Morris's Red Rareripe. One of the most beautiful 
and delicious varietips in cultivation. Fruit large, depressed, hollow at the 
summit, with a deepish sature ; skin rather downy, of rich deep red, thickly 
mottled on a yellowish ground ; flesh pale yellow, rayed with red at the 
stone ; melting, juicy, and of a rich vinous flavour, when m perfection, 
which is early in September. 

Heath Freestone, Kcnrick's Heath. This variety was first obtained 
from the late General Heath, of Roxbury, near Boston. The fruit is very 
large, oblong and beautiful, frequently weighing half a pound ; colour pale 
yellowish green, with crimson or violet next the sun ; its flesh is 
melting, juicy, rich, vinous, and agreeably acid ; ripens in September and 
October. 

Hoffman's Pound, Morrison's Pound, Hoffman's Favourite- This 
fruit is by some called the Morrissania, from its having been first obtained 
bv Mr. Floy from Governeur Morris ; but it originated with Martin HolT- 
inan, Esq., of New-York, The fruit is very large ; skin brownish while 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 107 

and red ; flesh yellow, firm, ver}' juicy and delicious, parting from the 
stone ; greatly esleeemed from its ripening late in September and October. 

Late Admirable, Ruyale, Royal, Bourdine. Teton de Venus of Prince 
and Downing. Fruit large, roundish, inclining to oblong; sature deeply 
impressed along one side, having the flesh swelling boldly and equally on 
both sides, with a slight impression on the summit ; skin downy, of pale 
green colour, streaked with dull tawny red ; flesh white, delicate, melting, 
juicy and high flavoured ; a magnificent Peach, ripening in September. 

Malta, Peche Multe. Belle de Paris, Malte de Normandie, Italian Peach. 
Fruit above the medium size; colour pale yellowish green, marbled with 
purplish red; flesh yellow, juicy, rich, vinous, and of superior flavour; 
ripens at the end of August. 

Madeleine de Couhson, Madeleine Rouge, Rouge Paysanne, Red 
Magdalen. Royal George, and New Royal Charlotte of some collections. 
An excellent fruit, of large size ; colour yellow and red ; ripens at the end 
of August ; flesh firm, white, but red at the stone; sugary and rich. 

Monstrous Lemon, Largest Lemon. This variety was first discovered 
in the garden of Mr. Tiebout, now Union Place ; the fruit is of the largest 
size, and in the gardens of two persons in New-York, has weighed seven- 
teen ounces, as slated by Mr. Prince, who says that the tree requires a 
sheltered situation, and that the fruit is late in ripening ; October. 

Morris's Red Freestone, Red Rareripe. Grosse Mignnnne, and Royal 
Kensington according to Prince. Fruit nearly round, of large size, apex 
a little sunken ; skin greenish yellow, with red cheek ; flesh delicious and 
melting ; a first rate variety ; ripe toward the end of August. 

Morris's White Freestone, White Rareripe, Luscious White Rare- 
ripe, Philadelphia Freestone. Lady Ann Steioart of Downing and Prince. 
Fruit lar-e, and inclining to the oval form, sature even, but not deep ; 
apex a little sunken ; skin white or rather yellowish ; flesh white, juicy, 
rich and sweet; ripe in September. 

Neil's Early Purple, Early Purple of Miller, Johnson's Purple 
Avant, PadMfs Early Purple, Veritable Pourpree Hative, Peche da Vin. 
One of the most beautiful of Peaches, of medium size ; skin yellow, but 
on the sunny side of a fine deep red and purplish colour ; it ripens by 
the middle of August ; flesh melting, juicy, with a rich vinous flavour ; an 
excellent fruit. 

New Royal Charlotte, Queen Charlotte, New Early Purple, Kew 
Early Purple. A delicious Peach, rather above medium size; skin pale 
greenish white, with deep red next the sun ; flesh greenish white, rich and 
agreeable ; ripe in August. 

Noblesse, Mellish's Favourite. Van guai'd of Prince and Winter. The 
tree is of a vigorous growth, and very productive; fruit Inrge, somewhat 
oval, of a pale red colour, marbled with different shades; pulp juicy, rich, 
and melting when at maiurity, which is in August and September. 

Prksident. This variety originated at Bedford, on Long Island. It 
is a rich, melting, juicy fruit, of large size, roundish, with a shallow sature; 
skin very downy, dull red next the sun, pale yellowish green in the 
shade ; the surface covered with small red dots ; a first rate Poach ; ripe in 
September. 

Prince's Late Yellow Freestone. A beautiful fruit, of a !:reenish 
yellow colour, tinged with red ; flesh firm and rich. A partially ripe speci- 



108 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 

men of this variety was exhibited by Mr. Prince in the Horticultural room 
of the American Institute, October 24th, 1843. 

Rareripe Yellow, Yellow and Red Rareripe, Red Velvet, Large Yellow 
Nutmeg. Marie Antoinette of some. This variety is large ; skin yellow 
and red ; flesh firm, rich and delicious, in August and September. It i9 
considered one of the most valuable market varieties. 

Red Cheek Malacatune, Hogg's Mulacotan, Alberge Incomparable, 
Lady Gallatin, Probyn Peach. The fruit of this variety is of large size 
and oval form ; its colour is yellow, with a red cheek on the sunny side ; 
the flesh is also yellow, melting, rich, juicy, and luscious. There is another 
variety of this fruit, which originated with Mr. Polls, of New-York, said 
to be very productive, and of excellent quality ; ripens in September. 

Robinson Crusoe, Early Robinson Crusoe. Fruit large, round, and 
handsome ; akin pale red, marbled with dark red ; flesh juicy, sweet, and 
delicious ; ripe in September. The stone from which this variety was 
raised, by Dr. Coxe. of Philadelphia, was brought by Lieutenant Coxe from 
the far-famed Island of Alexander Selkirk, or Robinson Crusoe. 

Smock Frke, Smock's Freestone. An esteemed market variety, at Mid- 
dletown, New-Jersey, where it originated, in Mr. Smock's orchard. Some 
specimens of the fruit have measured twelve inches in circumference. It 
is of oblong shape ; skin pale yellow and dark red ; flesh juicy, a little acid, 
and very palatable ; in September and October. 

Sweet Water, Early Sweet Water. American Nutmeg of Prince. 
This variety is said to have originated at Flushing ; its form is round, and 
its colour whitish green, with a red blush at maturity, which is early in 
August. The flesh is very tender, melting, rich and juicy. 

Teton de Venus. Royale of some collections. There are two or three 
varieties bearing this name ; the fruit of the best variety is large, globular, 
of a pale yellowish green colour, marbled with red ; flesh greenish yellow, 
but red at the stone ; a delicious flavoured Peach ; ripe in September. 

Van Zandt's Superb, Waxen Rareripe. This variety originated with 
Mr. Van Zandt, of Flushing ; its form is oval ; its skin smooth, somewhat 
mottled, and of a beautiful waxen appearance; flesh melting, and of excel- 
lent flavour ; in August and September. 

Walter's Early. Fruit large ; colour white in the shade, and red 
next the sun ; flesh red, very juicy and delicious. It is considered one of 
the most productive and early Peaches cultivated at Middletown, New- 
Jersey, where it ripens about the middle of August. 

Washington Peach, Boyce Peach, Washington Freestone. Early 
Rose of some. A first rate Peach ; colour a pale yellow in the shade, but 
pale red next the sun; flesh very juicy and delicious; ripens toward the 
end of August. A peculiar trait in this Peach, is its rapid growth ; it 
will, while ripening, in about ten days, nearly double its ordinary size; 
weighing over half a pound. 

White Blossom, Willow Peach, Snow Peach, White Blossomed Incom- 
parable. This variety originated on Long Island ; the fruit is perfectly 
white, of an oval form and handsome appearance; the flesh is also white, 
melting, juicy and pleasant ; it is much used for preserves when not over 
ripe, and is at full maturity in September. 

Yellow Admirable, Abricotee, Admirable Jaune, Peche d'Orange, 
Grossb Jaune, Peche de Burai, Sandatie, Hermnphrodite, Aj^ricnt Peach. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 109 

The fruit of this variety is large ; yellow while immature, but laved witb 
red when ripe ; flesh firm, yellow ; flavour similar to the Apricot ; ripe 
late in September. 

Yellow Af-bkrce, Alberge Jatme, Peche Jaune, Roussanne, Saint 
Laurent Jaime, Petite Roussanne, Rosanna. Purple Alberge, and Gold 
Fleshed of Winter Sr Co. A middle-sized globular fruit, of a yellow colour 
in the shade, with deep red next the sun ; the flesh deep yellow, but red 
next the stone ; melting, juicy, rich, sweet, vinous and excellent ; in August. 



PAVIES, OR CLINGSTONE PEACHES. 

Blood Cling, Claret Clingstone, Red Velvet. Sanguinole of Prince. 
Blood Peach of Winter Sf Co. Fruit large, oblong, of a dark violet or 
crimson colour; flesh blood red to the stone ; highly valuable for preserves, 
and by some deemed preferable to the Quince. The tree is very pro- 
ductive. 

Catharine. Rodman^s Red, and Red Catharine of some catalogues. 
Fruit large, round, variable; colour a beautiful red next the sun, marbled 
and dashed with darker shades ; pale greenish yellow in the shade ; flesh 
white, tinged with yellow and red ; juice abundant, and of very rich and 
sweet flavour ; tree a good bearer ; its fruit ripens in September. 

Congress Clingstone. Mr. Manning describes this as a fine large 
round Peach ; skin yellowish white, marbled with red ; flesh melting, 
juicy, rich and excellent ; in September. 

Early Newington, Smith's Newington, New-York Early Newington. 
A much esteemed fruit ; its colour in the shade is white, but next the sun 
red ; its form is globular ; its flesh is juicy, rich and high flavoured. The 
tree is productive, and the fruit matures in August. 

Heath, Heath Clingstone, Late Heath, Late October. Mr. Prince 
says, that the original tree of this variety was discovered growing wild on 
the farm of the late Judge Willet, of Flushing, and took its name from its 
being found in a barren field. The fruit is very large, of oval or oblong 
form ; the skin is downy, nearly all white; the flesh is peculiarly rich and 
highly flavoured, tender, melting and juicy. There is another variety 
mentioned by Mr. Kenrick, and called by the same name, said to have 
been raised from a stone brought by Mr. Heath from the Mediterranean. 

HysLop's Clingstone. The trees of Ihis variety are vigorous and pro- 
ductive. The fruit is large ; skin a yellowish white, with red cheek ; flesh 
melting, juicy, sweet, vinous, and excellent ; it ripens in October, and will 
keep good till November. 

IncoMPARABLE, Latc Admirable, Pavie Admirable. The fruit of this 
esteemed variety is large and roundish ; the skin pale yellow colour, shaded 
with scarlet or deep crimson next the sun ; flesh pale yellow ; juice sugary 
and well flavoured; ripe in September. 

Lemon Clingstone, Kennedy's Carolina, Pineapple Clingstone, Hnyte's 
Lemon Clingstone, Lemon Largest, Lnrge Yellow Pineapple. This fruit 
is of large size and -oval shape ; yellow in the shade, but bright red next 
the sun ; it resembfes a lemon, having a nipple at the apex ; some have 
weighed twelve ounces; its flesh is firm, and is at maturity in New-York 
by the end of Septehiber. 

10 



110 DEscraPTiVE list of peaches. 

Monstrous Pavie or Pomfonne, Gros Melecofon, Gros Perseqne Rouge, 
Pavie Miiiistreux, Pavie Cui-nu. Fruit very large, roundish, with an ob- 
tuse nipple ; slun downy, of a line red and f?reeiiish while colour : flesh 
white, deep red at the stone, juicy and vinous, excellent for preserving; in 
September and October. 

New-York Whitk Clingstone, Williams's New-York. New Newing- 
ton uf tome catalogues. Fruit large, round, with a pointed ape.K ; skin 
white, tinged with rose ; flesh yellow, melting or soft, but adhering closely 
to the stone ; juice very plentiful, sweet, luscious, and high flavoured ; 
ripe in September. 

Old Mixon Clingstone. Of all dingstone Peaches, this is considered 
the most delicious ; the skin is yellow, with a bright red cheek, marbled ; 
flesh red at the stone, rich, juicy, sweet, and high flavoured ; the fruit 
ripens ;i,radu.illy in September. This variety is cultivated in Massachu- 
setts, under the above name ; but Mr. Manning says that he ha- cultivated 
this fruit with the Old Newington, and the Catharine, and could never per- 
ceive any duierencf» in the fruit or trees. 

Old Nev/ington, Newington- The fruit of this variety is large, rather 
globular, of a fine bright red and pale yellow colour, marbled with dashes 
and streaks of a deeper colour ; the flesh is yellowish white, but red at the 
stone ; also juicy, rich, sweet and well flavoured ; the tree is very pro- 
ductive ; in September. 

Urarge Cling, Round Alberge. A beautiful native Peach, of round 
shape, and bright yellow or orange colour; flesh orange colour, aromatic, 
rich, and juicy. The tree is a great bearer, and from the beauty of its 
fruit, which ripens in September, is entitled to extensive cultivation for 
the market. 

Pavie Madeleine, Pavie Blanc, Melecoton, Myrecofon, Merlicot'ni, 
Persique a Gros-Fruit Blanc The fruit of this variety is of medium 
size, somewhat broadly globular ; skin pale yellowish white and marbled 
red ; flesh yellowish while to the stone; juice sugary and of an agreeable 
flavour ; towards the end of .August and September. 

Prince's Climax. Fruit very large, oval ; skin yellow, mottled with 
crimson ; flesh yellow, and of rich pineapple flavour ; ripe in September, 
and good in October. 

Selby's Cling. Fruit large, highly esteemed ; skin white and red ; 
flesh melting, juicy, and of peculiar rich flavour; ripe in September and 
October. 

Smock's Clingstone. Fruit very large, oblong; skin yellow and red ; 
flesh juicy, rich, a little acid; it ripens in October at Middletown, New- 
Jersey, and is considered one of the most productive and profitable late 
market fruits, 

Tippecanoe Pkach, Hern of Tippecanoe- This variety originated 
with George Thomas, of Philadelphia, and the fruit has been much ad- 
mired at the Pennsylvania Plorticultural exhibitions ; it is of large size, 
of a beanliful yellow colour, with a fine red blush ; flesh yellow, firm and 
juicy, possessing an agreeable acidity; it ripens hite in September. A 
faithful description of this fruit, accompanied by a beautiful coloured 
plate, taken from nature, may be seen in Hofify's Orchardists' Companion, 
No. 4. 



PEAR. Ill 

PEAR. 

PoiRiER. Pyrus. 

The Pear tree, in its wild state, is thorny, with upright 
branches, tending to the pyramidal form, in which it differs 
materially from the Apple tree. The twigs, or sprays, hang 
down ; the leaves are eliptical, obtuse, serrate ; the flowers 
in terminating, villose corymbs, produced from wood of the 
preceding year, or from buds gradually formed on the several 
years' growth, on the extremeties of very short protruding 
shoots, technically called spurs. It is found in a wild state 
in England, and abundantly in France and Germany, as 
well as in other parts of Europe, not excepting Russia, as 
far north as latitude 51. It grows in almost any soil. The 
cultivated tree differs from the Apple, not only in having a 
tendency to the pyramidal form, but also in being more apt 
to send out tap roots ; it being, as a seedling plant, longer in 
coming into bearing; and when on its own root, or grafted 
on a wild Pear stock, much longer lived. In a dry soil, it 
will exist for centuries, and still keep its health, productive- 
ness, and vigour. The Romans had thirty-six varieties in 
Phny's time : there are now several hundreds in the French 
and British nurseries ; the London Horticultural Catalogue 
contains the names of upward of six hinirl.vf] varieties. 
Professor Van Mons, of Brussels, and M. lji:.^a&ssie, of 
Mons, fruited about eight thousand seedling Fears., from 
which they obtained nearly eight hundred sorts worth culti- 
vating, (Neil's Hort. Jour.) The varieties are divided by 
the French into different classes of fruits, which are desig- 
nated as Beurrees, Crevers, Poiree, &c. 

Criterion of a good Pear. — Dessert Pears are charac- 
terized by a sugary, aromatic juice, with the pulp soft and 
sub-hquid, or melting, as in the Beurrees, or Butter Pears, 
or of a firm and crisjj consistence, or breaking, as in the 



112 PEAR. 

Winter Bergamots. Kitchen Pears should be of a large 
size, with the flesh firm, neither breaking nor melting, and 
rather austere than sweet. Perry Pears maybe either large 
or small ; but the more austere the taste, the better will be 
the liquor ; excellent perry is made from the wild Pear. 

Pear trees are propagated by grafting in the spring, or 
budding late in the summer, and also by seed taken from 
the best sorts for the purpose of obtaining new varieties. In 
raising Pear stocks, the wild Pear is preferred in Europe, as 
being calculated to produce plants more hardy and durable 
than the cultivated sorts ; and for dwarfing and precocity, 
the Quince is preferred. 

The Pear is a much handsomer upright growing tree 
than the Apple ; more durable, and its wood hard and valu- 
able for the turner and millwright ; but its blossoms being 
white, are less showy than those of the Apple. 

A Pear Orchard may be planted at any time after the 
trees are two years' old from the graft ; and as some varie- 
ties of trees from young stocks will not come into full bear- 
ing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing 
with care at any time within that period. They may be 
planted at from twenty to thirty-five feet distance from each 
other, according to the nature of the tree. The dwarf vari- 
eties may be planted in the kitchen garden, and trained 
either as espaliers or dwarf standards. 

Standard Pear trees will require but little pruning after 
the heads are once formed ; in doing which, the branches 
should be permitted to extend on all sides freely. Several 
years may elapse before any cross-placed, very irregular, or 
crowded branches, require pruning ; yet there are some 
kinds whose form of growth lesembles the Apple ; such will 
need frequent pruning. " The Pear tree," Mr. Phail says, 
" does not produce blossoms on the former year's wood, as 
several other sorts of trees do. Its blossom buds are formed 
upon spurs growing out of wood over one year old, and, 
consequently, projecting spurs all over the tree must be left 



PEAR. 113 

for that purpose." In some Pears, Knight observes, " the 
fruit grows only on the inside of those branches which are 
exposed to the sun and air ; in others it occupies every part 
of the tree." Withering says, that " the French make perry, 
or poire, from the fermented juice of the Pear, which is 
little inferior to wine ; and that even the bad eating kinds, 
pared and dried in an oven, will keep several years with or 
without sugar. 

Before I introduce the descriptive list of Pears, it may be 
necessary to inform my readers that a controversy has lately 
existed among justly celebrated pomologists and nursery- 
men, with regard to some of the old varieties of Pears and 
other fruits ; the consequence of which has been, that several 
cultivators are for an indiscriminate rejection of all the oldest 
varieties, while others contend that in some districts the old 
fruits are as good as they were ever known to be, and con- 
sequently deserving of cultivation as heretofore. It is recor- 
ded in ' Loudon's Encyclopoedia,' that the Jiutumn Bcrgamot 
for instance, has been cultivated and highly esteemed in 
England since the time of Julius Caesar, nearly nineteen cen- 
turies. This fact is my apology for retaining such of the old 
varieties of the different fruits in my descriptive list, as have 
been most celebrated. The following extracts are from the 
catalogue of Messrs. Winter & Co., proprietors of the old 
Linnasan Botanic Garden and Nurseries, Flushing, Long 
Island : 

" That some of the fine old varieties of the Pear have 
deteriorated in some parts of the country, is unquestionable ; 
this is ascribed to various causes ; first, that the vai'ieties 
have run out, as it is termed ; second, to the use of diseased 
stocks, or scions from diseased, or aged, or unthrifty trees, 
or both ; third, to the deleterious influence of the salt air, 
near the seaboard ; fourth, to the want of proper attention 
to soil and culture. We cannot subscribe to the soundness 
of the reason first assigned ; there are too many instances of 
varieties of fruit whose origin is so remote that it cannot be 

10* 



114 PEAR. 

traced, still continuing in full vigour ; and the kinds which 
laave deteriorated in some sections of the country, still main- 
tain their celebrity in the interior, and mure especially in 
the virgin soil of the west. Which of the other causes as- 
signed, has tended to deteriorate the fine kinds alluded to, 
we will not undertake to determine; one or more of them 
may have had their influence, but we think that proper 
attention to propagation, soil, and culture, may in general, 
if not in every instance, restore the valuable old varieties to 
their piistine excellence ; and in this vicinity there is deci- 
sive evidence of the improvement of that superior old variety 
the White Doyenne, Saint Michael, or Virgalieu." 

The last line of the above exti'act leads me to remark, 
that so celebrated has been the Pear therein alluded to, that 
it has been cultivated throughout the civilized world for 
centuries, under numberless different names. In ' Lindley's 
Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden,' fifteen synonymes 
are added to the general head. White Doyenne ; some of 
which names are still retained in the catalogues of those 
who profess to denounce the old fruits as " outcasts." In 
fact, the various catalogues are become so complicated from 
the above causes, that I have, to avoid discrepancy, occa- 
sionally adopted some of the names as synonymes, of what, 
to me, appeared to be distinct varieties ; and with a view to 
lead the reader to judge for himself in such cases, I have 
appended the names of the different nurserymen to the 
articles, who being practical men of good judgment, and 
integrity, are entitled to such distinction. These remarks 
are intended to apply, not only to Pears, but to other species 
of fruit in the various descriptive lists. 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 115 

SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 



SUMMER FRUIT. 

Ah ! MoN DiEu- A beautiful Pear, introduced by J. B. Mantel, of 
Bloomingdale, New- York. It is depicted in • Hoffy's Orchardisis' Com- 
panion, by a liandsome coloured plate, accompanied by the following de- 
scription : Size medium ; form handsome ; colour rich yellow, with bright 
red cheek; flesh juicy ; flavour sweet and perfumed. Tree vigorous and 
productive, the fruit growing in clusters of four or five together. 

Amire Joannet, Early Sugar. This fruit is described by Mr. Man- 
ning as small, of oblong form ; light yellow skin, with a small portion of 
red ; flesh white, and when not overripe juicy and good. It ripens in July, 
about ten days before the Petit Muscat, to which it is superior in flavour. 

Bei.le de Bruxeli.es, Beauty of Brussels, Cours Coniplet- A large 
early Pear of pyramidal form; skin a beautiful clear yellow, with red 
cheek; flesh white, fine, and of an agreeable flavour; ripe early in August, 

Beurre d'Amanlis. a fine early Pear, imported from France by J. B. 
Mantel, of Bloomingdale, New- York ; and described as follows, in ' Hoffy's 
Orchardists' Companion :' Size large ; form large bellied ; colour green, 
changing to yellow, with a fine blush when fully ripe, and russet spots ; 
flesh melting, juicy, sweet and excellent ; ripe in August and September. 
Tree vigorous and productive. 

Bloodgood Pear, Early Beurre. Fruit large ; form nearly oval; skin 
a dull yellow, covered with dark russet spots; flesh tender, melting, and 
pleasant. Mr. Manning says, " It comes early into bearing and produces 
abundant crops every year ; in August." 

Crawford, Early Cra:rford. A fine early Scotch Pear, of medium 
size, round at the eye, diminishing at the stem ; the skin is entirely of a 
light yellow; the flesh juicy, tender, and good. Mr. Manning says that 
the tree comes into bearing young, and ripens its fruit in August. 

Dearborn's Seedling. This variety originated in the garden of the 
Hon. H. A. S. Dearborn, of Uoxbury. The tree is of vigorouy growth; 
fruit of medium size, rounded at the crown, and regularly diminishes in a 
parabolic manner to the stalk ; the skin is smooth, thin, green, with russet 
spots ; at maturity it turns to a delicate yellow ; flesh very melting, and 
of the finest flavour ; in August. 

Early Rousbelet, Rousselet hafif, Early Catharine. This is a small 
Pear, with a long curved neck ; skin yellow, with brownish russet ; flesh 
very fine, rich, and high flavoured ; in August and September. The tree 
yields immense crops. 

Honey Pear, American Honey. This Pear in size and shape resem- 
bles the Scckle ; the skin is yellow, v^'ith a large portion of dull red ; the 
flesh sweet, juicy and good. Mr. Manning says the tree bears young, and 
bids fair to be very prolific. 

.Targonelle. Epargne, Beau Present, Saint Sampson, Grosse Cuis&e 
Madame, Saint Lambert, Poire des Tables des Princes. Fruit rather 
large, oblong, of a pale green colour, a little marked with red ; flesh melt- 
ing, juicy, with a slightly acid, rich and agreeable flavour. It ripens early 



116 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 

in August, is one of the most productive of all Pears, and the very best in 
its season. 

Julienne of Coxe, L'Archiduc d'Ete, Summer Beurre, Summer Boy- 
tnne, Summer St. Michael, of Boston. Bloodgood Pear of some col- 
lections- Fruit medium size, smooth, bright yellow at maturity, with a 
faint blush next the sun; form ratlier ovate, tapering toward the stalk; 
flesh perfectly melting, rich, and juicy. The tree bears young, and most 
profusely, and matures its fruit in August and September. 

Madeleine, Magdalene, Citron des Carmes, Early Chaumontelle. This 
Pear is of medium size, pale yellow, with an occasional blush next the 
eun ; flesh white, melting, perfumed, A fine early fruit, ripening in .Tuly 
and August. Mr. Manning considers this a very good Pear ; he says the 
tree bears well every year. 

Rousselet dk Rheims, Musk or Spice Pear. Fruit small, pyramidal, 
greenish yellow at maturity, but brown red next the sun, with russetty 
spots ; flesh half beurre, fine, very perfumed. Good to put in brandy, and 
to dry ; in August and September. 

Sabine d'Ete, Bellissime d' Amour, Epargne of the French. English 
Red Cheek. This Pear is of pyramidal form, terminating in a round blunt 
point at the stalk ; colour yellow, but fine scarlet next the sun ; the whole 
surface smooth, regular, and polished ; flesh white, melting, juicy, and 
highly perfumed ; the tree is an abundant bearer, and ripens its fruit in 
August. 

Stevens's Genesee Pe.\r. A specimen of this Pear was furnished the 
Orchardists' Companion, from Wm. Reid's Nursery, at Murray Hill, New- 
York. It appears by the plate, to be a beautiful Pear, of large size, and 
rather of an oblong form ; its colour is mellow green, with russet blotches ; 
its flesh is represented as white, juicy, and melting ; flavour sprightly, rich, 
and very delicious. Time of ripening, toward the end of August. 

Skinlkss Pear, Poire sans peau, Fleur de Guignes. A small oblong 
Pear; the skin, which is very smooth and thin, is pale green, marbled with 
red and yellow ; flesh crisp, sweet, and of pleasant flavour. The tree is 
very prolific, ripening its fruit in August. 

SuMMKR Francreal, Froncreal d'Ete, Fondanfe, France Canncl, Gros 
Micet d^Ete. Milan Blanc, Prebles Beurre. Fruit above medium size ; 
shape oblong; thickest about one-third from the eye ; skin yellowish green ; 
flesh melting, rich and excellent; ripe early in September. 

Summer Melting, Summer Beurre. Fondant d'Ete. An excellent 
summer Pear, of pyriform shape ; colour yellow, tinged with brownish 
red ; flesh soft, melting, and sweet. The tree bears young, and ripens its 
fruit in August. 

Summer Rosr, Thorny Rose, Epine Rose, Poire de Rose, Rosenbirne 
Kraft. A Pear of medium size, in form resembling an Apple; the skin 
is dull yellow, spotted with russet, and marbled with red ; a very produc- 
tive variety, ripening its fruit early in August. Mr. Manning pronounces 
this a beautiful fruit, and the tree a great bearer. 

Willams's Bonchretien, Bartlet. Williams'' s Early, Autumn Superb 
of Prince. This fruit originated with a Mr. Wheeler, at Aldermaston,. 
in Berkshire, England, but was subsequently extensively propagated by 
Mr. Williams, near London ; hence its name- The fruit is large, oblong ; 
the stalk thick and fleshy, an inch long; the colour at maturity yellow 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 117 

tinged with red; flesh whitish, very melting, and delicate ; juice perfumed, 
sweet and abundant. Tree very productive, and fruit ripe early in Sep- 
tember. 



AUTUMN FRUIT. 

Andhews, Amory, Gibson. Fruit oblong ; skin yellowish green, with a 
dull red cheek ; flesh melting, juicy, and high flavoured. Mr. Manning 
represents it as " a very valuable pear, producing its fruit early and abun- 
dantly." Ripe in September and October. 

Autumn Bergamot, Common Bergamot, York Bergamof, Bergamotte 
dJ Auiomne, Andrews. Fruit globular, depressed ; skin rough, yellowish 
green, and dull brown, with greyish spots ; flesh pale, melting, juicy, 
sugary and perfumed; ripe in September and October. This variety has 
been cultivated in England from the time of Julius Csesar, and is still con- 
sidered by many a first-rate Pear in its season. 

Autumn Superb. This is a large Pear, full and round at the eye, 
diminishing to a point at the stem ; the skin is yellow, mixed with dull 
red ; the flesh melting and good. Mr. Manning says it bears young; and 
that the fruit ripens in October. 

Beli.e et Bonne, Belle d^ Flanders, Schone und gute, Gracieuse. Fruit 
very large, globular, depressed ; the stalk long ; skin greenish yellow, but 
next the sun yellow, with spots of russet ; flesh white, sweet, exceeding 
rich and agreeably perfumed. The tree is very productive, and the fruit 
ripens in September. This variety has been cultivated under the erroneous 
names of Charles d'Autriche, Belle Be Bruxelles and Bergamotte Crus- 
sanne, which are distinct fruits. 

Belle Lucrative, Fundante d'Automne, A beautiful Flemish Pear ; 
middle sized, roundish, tapering at the stalk ; skin yellow, slightly rus- 
setted, and tinged with pale red ; flesh melting, sweet and juicy, with a 
slight musky perfume ; early in October. Mr. Manning considered this 
variety as worthy of a place among the choisest collections. 

Beurre Bosc, Cdlebasse bosc. Fruit large and very long ; terminated 
with a crown, near three inches in diameter; somewhat calabash-firmed ; 
skin gray fawn colour, but russetty yellow at maturity ; flesh white, melt- 
ing, highly flavoured, and delicious ; it ripens in October. 

Bleeker's Meadow, Large Seckel, of Prince. Meadow Pear of Winter 
Sf Co. A native fruit of medium size, roundish form, and of a yellow 
colour, tinged with dull red ; the flesh melting, juicy, sweet, musky, and 
of delicious flavour; ripe in October. A prolific bearer. 

Brown Ueurre, Beurre Rouge, Bewre d'Or, Beurre Boie, Beurre dit 
Roi, Beurre d'Amboise, Isnmbert, Red Beurre, Golden Beurre, Poire d'Am- 
boise. This was formerly considered the best of all Pears in its season. 
Fruit rather large, of greenish yellow, and dusky red colour, covered with 
thin russet; flesh melting, buttery, rich and excellent; at perfection in 
October and November. 

Capiamont, Beurre de Capiatimont, Calehasse vass. This variety is 
much esteemed in the vicinity of Boston. Fruit of medium size; skin 
yellow, tinged with fine red or cinnamon ; flesh yellowish, melting, very 
rich and high flavoured ; in September and October. 



118 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEAKS. 

Capsheaf- a medium sized Pear, much cultivated near Providence, 
Rhode Island; the shape is rather globular; skin a light cinnamon russet; 
flesh white, melting and juicy. The tree bears well, says Mr. Manning, 
and the fruit ripens in October. 

Charles d'Autriche, Gracieuse. Charles of Austria. A fine and 
beautiful fruit, large, three and a half inches long, and three inches broad ; 
colour greenish yellow, with brown spots, and partially russetted ; flesh 
wliite, melting, juicy, and delicious ; ripe in October, and good in Novem- 
ber. 

Cumberland- A native fruit from Cumberland, Rhode Island, of 
large size and oblong shape; skin orange colour, with bright red cheek ; 
the flesh melting, juicy and good ; ripe in October. The tree is of vigorous 
growth, says Mr. Manning, and bears abundantly. 

Gushing- A native fruit from Hingham, Massachusetts ; of medium 
size and oblong shape ; skin, when ripe, smooth, of a light yellow, mottled 
with dull red on one side ; flesh white, melting, sprightly and good. Mr. 
Manning says it comes early into bearing, and produces plenty of fruit in 
September and October. 

Delices d'Ardenpont, Belices (f Hardenpont de Toulouse. Beurre 
cC Ardenpont of some. Fruit above medium size ; oblong, pyramidal ; skin 
yellow at maturity, and partially covered with a thin cinnamon coloured 
russet ; flesh yellowish white, nearly melting ; juice pleasant, sweet, and 
abundant ; in October and November. The tree is a good bearer. 

Dix. A native variety originating in the garden of Mr. Dix, in Boston ;, 
fruit large, oblong; skin, when ripe, yellow, with a blush of red; flesh 
melting, juicy and rich ; in October and November. 

Doyenne Santelexe. A new, fine, handsome Flemish Pear; fruit 
above the middle size, pyramidally oblong; skin pale green, speckled with 
grey russet ; flesh white, a little gritty, but tender ; juice saccharine, with 
a slight musky perfume. The tree is hardy, and ripens its fruit early in 
October. 

Duchess of Angouleihe, Duchesse d'Angouleme. A Pear of first-rate 
excellence. Form roundish, oblong, tapering towards the stalk ; skin dull 
yellow, with broad russet patches ; flesh white, rich, melting, very juicy, 
and high flavoured, with a most agreeable perfume. Specimens of this 
fruit have been shown in England, weighing twenty-two ounces ; at per- 
fection in October and November. 

Flemish Beauty, La Belle de Flanders. Imperatrice de la France. 
BHlliant, Bosch, Bouche Nouvelle. A fine Flemish Pear in great repute ; 
it is of large size, obovate, obtuse at the stalk; greenish yellow russet, 
tinged with crimson ; flesh rather firm, yellowish white, sweet, rich, and 
excellent -, it ripens in October. 

Frederick of VVurtebieerg. Rnide Wartemberg, Capiaumont of some 
collections. A large and splendid Fear, of pyramidal form and fine 
yellow colour, covered with beautiful crimson on one side ; flesh melting, 
and of delicious flavour. The three bears while young, and very abun- 
dantly. 

Fulton- A fine Pear of medium size, raised from seed by Mr. Fulton, 
of Topsham, Maine; shape roundish turbinate; skin dark yellow; rus- 
setted ; flesh melting, juicy, and of delicious flavour ; ripe in September, 



DESCKIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 119 

and lasts a month. The tree is a great and constant bearer, and highly 
deserving of cultivation. 

Gansei/s liERGAMOT, Brocu^s Bergamot lues's Bergamot, Bonne Rouge. 
Fruit varying fioin middle size to large; ovate flattened; colour dull 
green, slightly red next the sun; flesh white, melting, sweet, rich and high 
flavoured. A delicious Pear; ripe in October, and good till Christmas. 
Mr. iVlaiining says that this variety was introduced in 1766, and as yet 
shows no sign of decay. 

Golden Beurrk of Biiboa. This variety was imported from Bilboa, 
by Mr. Hooper, of Marbleliead ; the original name being unknown. Fruit 
of medium size, oblong; colour a bright golden yellow, with patches of 
russet ; perfectly melting, and of fine flavour. A beautiful Pear tree, a 
great bearer, and worthy of cultivation ; ripe in October. 

Gork's Hkathcot. a native variety, highly esteemed in Massachu- 
setts. Fruit of medium size ; form long ; skin of a uniformly light yellow; 
flesh melting, juicy, and high flavoured. The growth of the tree is hand- 
some and vigorous, producing abundant crops in September and October. 

Green Syi-vange, Sylvange Vert, Bergamutte Sylvunge. A most supe- 
rior Pear, of medium size, skin rough and green, speckled with grey or 
black. The flesh is greenish near the skin, whi'e in the centre, soft, sac- 
charine and juicy ; fruit in perfection from October to Christmas. Tlie 
tree is a great bearer, and specimens of the fruit have been known to weigh 
thirteen ounces. 

Hacoim'.-j Incomparable, Norfolk Seedling. Doivnfiam Seedlingnf Win- 
ter 4- Co. Fruit middle sized, of pale yellow colour, mixed with green, 
partially covered with orange russet ; flesh yellowish white, slightly gritty, 
but very tender, juicy, sweet and rich ; and possessing a high musky and 
perfumed flavour. The tree is a great bearer, and the fruit excellent ; in 
November and December. A silver medal was given to the originator of 
this fruit, as a prize, in England, 1S30. 

Harvard, L'Epcrgne, Boston Epargne- This variety is highly prized 
in the Boston markets ; fruit above medium size; oblong, swollen at the 
crown ; skin russetty yellow, tinged with red ; flesh white, juicy and 
melting ; in September and October. 

Hekry the Fourth, Henri Quatre. Fruit of medium size ; oblong; 
skin a dull yellow, mixed with brown and green ; flesh yellow, rather 
gritty, juicy and melting, with a peculiar rich flavour; ripe in September 
and October. Mr. Manning says the tree bears while young, and abun- 
dantly. 

Long Green of Autumn, Mouille boucke, Mouthwnter. Mr. Manning 
says that this is one of the best of the old varieties ; its form is very long ; 
skin at maturity a light green ; flesh white, melting, and rich flavoured. 
The tree is of vigorous growth, bears well, and the fruit is ripe in Septem- 
ber and October. 

Marie Louise, Marie Chretienne. Fruit oblong, tapering towards 
both ends; size varying from medium to large; skin nearly smooth, yel- 
lowish green, and cinnamon coloured russet; flesh white, melting, juicy, 
and rich. It ripens in October and November, and is an excellent fruit in 
its season. 

Moor Fowl Egg. Fruit rather small, globular, ovate, swollen in tho 
middle ; skin orange brown next the sun, with spots of russet ; flesh yel- 



120 DESCRIPTIVE LI&-T OF PEARS, 

lowish white, a little Kf'tty, but tender and mellow, juice saccharine, a 
little perfumed. 'I'his is a hardy Scotch variety ; ripe in September, and 
good in October 

Napoleon, Medaille, Sauvageon Liart. Roide Rome, and Wurtemburg 
of Prince. Fruit large, form of the Colmar ; skin smooth; colour bright 
green, but at maturity pale green ; flesh very melting, with an unusual 
abundance of rich agreeable juice. At perfection in October and November. 

PiiiNcESSE OF Oeakge, Frvictss d.'Orunge, Princess C mguette. The 
fruit is roundish ; the skin bright reddish orange russet ; flesh yellowish 
white, sugary and rich, in some seasons perfectly melting, but occasionally 
a little gritty. A beautiful Pear, and of good quality ; in October. 

Seckle, New-York Red Cheek, Red Cheek Seckie, Sycle. An excellent 
native fruit, in size rather small ; colour varying from yellowish to brown- 
ish russet, but bright red next the sun ; flesh melting, spicy, and of a most 
extraordinary rich flavour. This fruit grows in clusters, in great abun- 
dance, and is at perfection in September and October. 

Swan's Egg, Moor Fowl Egg of Boston. Fruit small, of an oval, tur- 
binate figure ; colour yellowish green, and dull russelty brown ; flesh tender 
and melting, with a rich, saccharine, musky flavour. An excellent fruit ; 
ripe in October. The tree is remarkably tall, upright, vigorous, and pro- 
ductive. 

Urbaniste, Beurre du Roi. The fruit is of medium size, pyramidally 
ovate ; skin pale green, inclining to yellow, with green streaks ; flesh 
white, but reddish yellow next the core ; it is quite melting, juicy, and very 
Bweet, with a little perfume; it ripens from the middle of September to 
November. 

Washington. A native fruit from New Jersey, of medium size and 
oval form ; the skin is light yellow, covered with small brown spots, with 
a tinge of red; the flesh melting, and of excellent flavour. Mr. Manning 
says the tree bears well, and is worthy of general cultivation ; fruit ripens 
in September. 

White Doyenne, Doyenne Blanc, Beurre Blanc, Bonne ante, St. Mi- 
chael, Carlisle, Citron de Septenibre, Kaiserbir?ie, Poire a cmirte queue. 
Poire de Limon, Poire de Seigneur, Poire Monsieur, Valencia, White 
Beurre, Virgalieu of some collections. Fruit pretty large ; roundish ob- 
long; skin pale citron yellow, with cinnamon russet, speckled; flesh 
white, juicy, very buttery, and delicious ; ripe in September and October. 
An old, and once celebrated variety, still admired by many, although 
excluded from some nurseries, or cultivated under new names. 

Wilkinson. A native Pear from Cumberland, R. I. The free bears 
young, and is very fruitful; size above medium; form oblong; skin yel- 
low, with a brownish blush near the sunj flesh white, juicy, and melting; 
at perfection in October and November. 

WINTER FRUIT. 

B-EUHRE d'Ahemberg, Bcurrc d'Arcmbert, Due d^Aremberg, Poire 
d'Aremberg, Beurre Deschamps, Beurre des Orphelins of Deschamps, 
Colmar Deschamps. The English and French writers speak of this Pear 



DESCniPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 121 

as one of the best in cultivation. The tree is a great bearer, comes early 
into cultivation, and the fruit will keep till March. Fruit large, turbinate; 
skin of ti delicate pale green, dotted with russet, which becomes of a deeper 
yellow at maturity ; flesh whitish, fine, very juicy, perfectly melting, and 
very extraordinarily rich, sweet, high flavoured and excellent. 

Bi-.uKRE DiEL, Diet's Butterbirne. Dorotk^e Royole, Beurre de Yelle, 
Beurre RnyuLe, Poire de Melon. Beurre Inconipura'jle nf some. This 
ranks amongst the best of Pears. The tree is of vigorous growth ; fruit, 
when in perfection, four inches long, and three inches broad ; the skin at 
maturity is bright orange, with reddish russet ; flesh clear white, melting, 
juicy, and of a delicious aromatic flavour ; from November to January. 

Beuhre Rance, Beurre Epine, Hardcnpont de Priniemps. This is said 
to be a firdt-rate Pear. The tree is vigorous, and a good bearer; fruit mid- 
dle sized, oblong ; skin deep green, with russetty specks ; flesh green, 
melting, having a rich delicious flavour, with very little acid. It shrivels 
in ripening, but will keep till April. 

Bezy Vaet, Bezy de Saint Vanst. A most excellent Pear, somewhat 
the shape of the Swan's Egg, but larger ; skin dull green, covered with 
russetty spots ; flesh yellowish ; perfectly melting, sweet and agreeably 
perfumed ; at perfection in November and December. 

Catillac. Fruit very large, rather turbinate ; pale yellow, stained with 
red; flesh firm and breaking; its flavour astringent; an excellent baking 
Pear ; from November to April. Specimens of this variety have been 
known to weigh upward of two pounds. 

Chaumontei., Bezy de Chaumontelle, Poire de Chaumontelle, Beurre 
d^Hiver. This noble old variety is a fruit varying in size, from large to 
very large ; its colour at maturity yellow, tinged with J)rownish red next 
the sun ; its form variable ; flesh melting, juicy, sweet, musky, excellent ; 
in season from November to February. 

CoLMAH, Colrnar Souverain. Poire Manne, Bergamotte Tardive, Incoiri' 
parable. This fruit is rather large ; skin smooth, of a green colour, 
changing to a "yellow at maturity ; form pyramidal; flesh melting, juicy, 
saccharine, and of excellent flavour. The fruit is in perfection from No- 
vember to February. 

Columbia, Columbian Virgalieu. A large native pear of oblong or 
pyramid form, and fine yellow colour, tinged with red ; flesh rich, firm, 
juicy, and excellent ; from November to January. Tree productive and 
of very handsome form. 

Easter Beurre, Bergamotte de la Pentecote, Beurre d'Hiver de Brux- 
elles, Doyenne d'Hiver, de Bruxelles, Bezi Chaumontelle Tres Gros. Of 
all the late keeping Pears, this is considered the best (for England.) Fruit 
large, roundish, oblong; colour green, but yellow at maturity, with specks 
of russet brown ; flesh yellowish white, perfectly buttery and melting, also 
extremely high flavoured ; it is eatable in November, and will keep till 
May ; it is a most profuse bearer, on a quince stock. 

P^cHASSERY, Bezy de Chassery, Bezy de Landry. Poire d'(Eof,Ambrette, 
Walnut, Tilton of New- Jersey. Fruit middle size, of a roundish turbinate 
figure, something like a Citron, or the Ambretle ; skin smooth, greenish 
yellow, with grey specks ; flesh melting, juicy and delicious ; from Decem- 
ber to March. 



I"?? DESCUIPTIVK LIST OF PEARS. 

Glout Morceau, G'mix Mnrceanx, Benrre d'Aremberg. Rni de Wtirt- 
emburif, Gloria. Colniar d^hiver of Prince, and Benrre de Hardenpout of 
Downing. A very lar^e Belsic variety, of v-xe-dX excellence; t'luit of ovalish 
form, pale sreen colour, inclining to yellow, with russctty specks and 
blotches; flesh whitish, firm, very juicy and excellent; in perfection from 
November to March. 

Lewis. Th s variety originated on the farm of Mr. I. Lewis, of Roxbu- 
ry, Mass. The size is me.lium ; form somewhat globular; skin, when 
ripe, a greenish yellow ; the tiesh is white, very melting, juicy and excel- 
lent; from November to March. The tree grows quick, and bears abun- 
dance of fruit. 

Louise Bonne de Jersey, Louise Bonne d'Avranches. A large Pear; 
oblong; a good substitute for the old St. Germain; skin yellowish green, 
sometimes tinged wilh red ; flesh extremely tender, and full of an excellent 
saccharine, well flavoured juice. A first-rate fruit, from October till after 
Christmas. 

Newtown Vergaleau. A large Pear, Of a yellow colour, with a very 
ehort stalk ; the tree grows very crooked and of an irregular form, bending 
by the weight of its fruit, which is excellent to preserve, or for baking ; 
from November to January. Its productiveness renders it desirable in an 
orchard. 

Passe Colmar, Fondante de Panisel, Passe Colmar Gris dit Precet, 
Poire Precel, Passe Colmar, Epineux, Beurre Colmar Gris dit Precel, 
Beurre d'Argejison, Present de Malines, Colmar souverain, Ch'ipman's. 
A most valuable Pear, of medium size, conical, flattened next the eye; skin 
at maturity yellowish, sprinkled with russet, a tinge of red next the sun ; 
flesh yellowish, melting, rich and excellent. The tree is a good bearer, 
and the fruit is in perfection from November to February. 

Pound Peak, Black Pear of Worcester, Parkinson's Warden, Grande 
Monurque, Livre, Groote Mogul. Gros Rateau Gris, Love Pear. Winter 
Bell of Downing. Fruit very large, of a roundish turbinate figure ; skin 
rough, covered with dull russet ; flesh hard and coarse, but excellent when 
baked or stewed in winter. Grafted on a Pear stock, the tree bears so 
abundantly, as to bend like a weeping willow. A specimen of this variety 
was exhibited at the sixteenth annual fair of the American Institute, Octo- 
ber, 1843, weighing 33 oz. 

Prince's St. Germain. Fruit about medium size ; form obovate ; skin 
russetty yellow, with dull red cheek ; flesh melting and good. Mr. Man- 
ning says that its abundant bearing, and its ripening gradually in the house 
during winter, renders it a very valuable market fruit ; good till after 
Christmas. 

Suhpasse Marie Louise, Pitfs Prolific Marie, Pitt's Marie Louise. 
A large Pear ; oblong or calabash formed ; green, covered with brown yel- 
low russet ; flesh melting and rich flavoured ; ripe in October and Novem- 
ber. It is a very prolific bearer. 

Surpasse St. Germain. Fruit of medium size ; round it the crown, 
tapering to the stem ; it is of very irregular form ; the skin is rough ; 
colour yellow, mixed with dull brown ; fle.~h coarse grained, sugary, and 
high flavoured ; good from November til! January. 

Surpasse Vergaleau. Fruit largo, oblong, some specimens nearly 
round ; the skin smooth, its colour yellow with a light red cheek ; flesh 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 123 

rich, juicy, and delicious eating ; in Ociober and November. Mr. ATanning 
says the tree bears young, yields large crops, and is worthy of extensive 
cultivation. 

Uvendale's St. Germain, Belle de Jersey. A large fine pyriform Bell 
Pear, of a brownish green colour, with russetty spots ; flesh firm, and high 
flavoured. It is considered a first-rale winter Pear, and will keep till 
March. Mr. R,eid, of the Murray Hill Nursery, exhibited some fine speci- 
mens of this fruit at the sixteenth annual fair of the American Institute, 
October, 1843. 

Vicar of \Vinkfield, Bourgrneatre of Boston, Monsieur Le Cure, 
Dumas, Clion of Boston, according to ffie catalogue of Winter Sf Co. Flush- 
ing. Fruit oblong, or pyramidal ; skin russetty yellow, with ruddy colour 
on one side; flesh firm, sweet, and rich; good as a table fruit, from De- 
cember to February. This variety is deserving extensive cultivation, for 
its beauty, large size, keeping qualities and productiveness. 

\VI^TER Nelis, Nelis d''Hiv<.r, Lu Bonne Molinoise, Spreeuw. All ac- 
counts agree that this is a most excellent Winter Pear; its size is above 
medium, somewhat oval ; its skin green and russetty, full of grey dots; 
flesh yellowish white, melting, high flavoured, with a musky perfume ; at 
perfection in December ond January. 

PERRY PEARS. 

Bart.and. This variety took its name from the original tree, growing 
in a field called Bare Lands, in Herefordshire, England. The fruit is small- 
ish, of ovate form ; skin dull green, russetted with grej'. It is deemed 
excellent for perry. Ppecific gravity of its juice 1070. 

HoLMORE. Fruit small globular ; skin of a dingy yellowish green, tinged 
with red- Excellent perry is made of this variety in Herefordshire, Eng- 
land. Specific gravity of its juice, 1068. 

HuFFc Ap. There are several varieties of Pears bearing this name, but the 
best perry is made of the true Hertfordshire HulTcap. The fruit is middle 
sized, of pale green colour, marked with grey russet. Specific gravity of 
its juice 1070. 

Monarch. A new Pear, considered by Mr. Knight as without a rival. 
The tree is of rapid growth, and an abundant bearer ; fruit large, of an ex- 
traordinary musky Havour, and deemed excellent for perry ; good also for 
the table; from October to December and January. 

Oi.DFiEi.D. Fruit below the medium size, of pale gi-een colour, with 
russetty spots An excellent perry fruit. Specific gravity of its juice 1067. 
From this variety is made the celebrated Ledbury Perry. 

LoN GLAND. Fruit very handsome, much like the Swan's Egg in shape; 
skin bright gold colour, tinged and mottled with a russetty lively orange ; 
specific gravity of its juire 1063. The tree is handsome and upright, and 
much cultivated in Herelbrdshire for perry. 

Tkinton Squash. Fruit middle sized, of angular shape; skin a muddy 
russetty green, marbled with dull orange, interspersed with ash-coloured 
specks. It originated in Teinton, Gloucestershire, and the perry made 
from this fruit is of the very highest quality, something approaching in 
colour and briskness to champaigne, for which fine samples of it have 
sometimes been sold. 



124 PLUM. 

PLUM. 
Prunier. Primus. 

The Plum tree rises fifteen feet in height, branching into 
a moderately spreading head ; the leaves are ovate, serrated, 
and on short petioles ; petals white. The natural colour of 
the fiuit is generally considered to be black ; but the varie- 
ties in cultivation are of yellow, red, blue, and green colours, 
and of different forms and flavouis. There ai'e several good 
sorts that grow wild in the hedges of Britain, and also in 
America, but its oiiginal country is supposed to be Asia ; and 
according to Pliny, it was taken from Syria into Greece, and 
from thence into Italy. There are many varieties cultivated 
in France ; and in the London Horticultural Garden there 
are about three hundred sorts kept under name. The Green 
Gage is considered the best dessert Plum, and the Egg 
Plum for sweetmeats ; but the Damson is the best baking 
Plum. 

The Plum is said to succeed best in a lofty exposure, and 
may yield well in the mountainous parts of the United States; 
it yields well near Albany, but the fruit is by no means 
plentiful in the vicinity of the city of New- York. Like the 
Nectarine, it is subject to the attacks of the Curculio, and 
other insects. 

It has been observed that Plum trees grov^^ing in frequent- 
ed lanes or barn-yards, are more generally fruitful than 
those cultivated in private gardens, or secluded situations; 
this circumstance is by some attributed to the jarring of the 
trees, by cattle and swine rubbing against them ; thus caus- 
ing the defective fruit to fall on the ground. Geese kept in 
orchaids or fruit gardens, often prove beneficial ; as they, 
by devouring the defective fruit and other corruptible matter, 
prevent the possibility of insects getting into the ground, so 
as to perpetuate their existence, or multiply their species. 

Cobbett attributes the scarcity of Plums in New- York to 



PLUM. 



125 



neglect. In his American Gardener, paragi-aph 320, he 
asks, " How is it that we see so few Phims in America, 
when the markets are supplied with cart-loads in such a 
chilly, shady, and blighty country as England 1" 

I would answer this querry by informing the reader, that 
the inhabitants of our parent country, with a view to derive 
the full benefit of the sun's rays for the cultivation of Plums, 
Peaches, Nectarines, and such other fruit as require extra 
heat, train their trees against walls, fences, or trellis-work ; 
and from their having these means of support, gardeners 
have no inducement to plant them deeper than is necessary; 
whereas, from the circumstance of the American climate 
being sufficiently warm to ripen those fruits on standard 
trees, they are generally so cultivated. Many persons, to 
save the trouble of staking, or otherwise supporting their 
trees, plant them too deep, and thus defeat the operations 
of nature. That this is a prevalent error, has been shown 
in the articles Nectarine and Peach, to which the reader is 
referred for a more concise view of the subject. 

New varieties of the Plum are produced from seed ; and 
the old kinds are generally propagated by budding on stocks 
of free-growing Plums, in preference to grafting, because 
Plum trees are very apt to gum wherever large wounds are 
made in them. All the sorts produce their fruit on small 
natural spurs rising at the ends and along the sides of the 
bearing shoots of one, two, or three years' growth. In most 
sorts, new fruit branches are two years old before the spurs 
bear. The same brandies and spurs continue fruitful, in 
proportion to the time which they take to come into bear- 
ing. 

After the formation of the head is begun, it takes from 
two to six years before the different sorts come into bearing. 
Standards must be allowed to expand in free growth, occa- 
sionally pruning long rarnblers and irregular cross branches. 
In annual pruning, thin crowded parts, cut away worn out 
bearers, and all decayed and cankery wood. The Plum 

13* 



126 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLU?/IS. 

may be cultivated In small gardens, trained as espaliers, or 
to a dose fence, like the Apricot, &c. 

The tree is of farther use than for its fruit as a dessert, 
&c. ; the bark dyes yellow; the wood is used by turners; 
and the dried fruit, or prune, is formed into electuaries and 
gentle purgatives. Prunes were originally brought froni 
Damascus, whence their name. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS. 

American Yellow Gage, American Wheat. A beautiful medium 
sized oval I'lum, of a bright yellow colour, when fully ripe ; its flavour is 
rich, equal to the Green Gage. The fruit is not apt to crack nor to be 
attacked by insects. It is a very suitable variety to cultivate for the mar- 
ket ; it ripens in August and September. 

Apricot Plum, Prune Abriaite, Abricntc de Tours. A large free;-=tonft 
Plum ; its form is globular, depressed, divided by a deep sature ; whitish 
yellow, but famt red next the sun, and covered with bloom; its flesli is 
firm, juicy, sweet, musky and excellent; it ripens in August and Sep^ 
tember. 

Bingham, Bingliam^s Yellow Cling. A delicious clingstone Plum, of 
large size and oval form ; skin bright yellow, spotted and blotched wiili 
red ; flesh yellow, rich, and delicious ; ripening in August and September. 

Bleekkti's Gage. This fine freestone Plum is stated to have been 
raised by the Rev. Mr. Bleeker, of Albany, from the stone of a German 
Prune; it is a large globular fruit, of excellent quality ; skin dark yellow. 
with red spots and blotches ; the flesh is rich, saccharine, and juicy ; in 
September. 

Coe's Golden Drop, Coe^s Imperial, Bury Seedling, Golden Gngf, 
Fairs Golden Drop. Raised by Mr. Coe, Bury St. Edmond's, SuH'olk, 
England. The tree is vigorous; fruit oval, of large size; skin greenish yel- 
low, spotted with violet and crimson; the flesh, which separates from the 
stone, is of gold colour, rich and excellent ; the fruit ripens at the end of 
September, and will keep several weeks. A first-rate fruit, and worthy of 
general cultivation. 

Coe's Late Red. Sairit Martin, Saint Martin Rouge. An excellent 
freestone Plum of medium size, in form almost round ; its colour is violet 
purple, with a partial degree of bloom ; flesh rich, saccharine and high 
flavoured. It is one of the best of late Plums, ripening in October and 
November. 

Columbia, Columbian Gage. A beautiful native clingstone Plum, of 
light purple colour ; the flesh is firm, of a greenish hue, with an abundance 
of rich flavoured juice. The tree is a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in 
August. 

Coofer's Large Red, Cooper's Large American, La Delicieuse^ Tlais 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLtJMS. 127 

Plum is of extraordinary size, measurins within an eighth of two inches in 
«ach direction; the skin is of a fine dark purple colour ; the flesh is yel- 
lowish {;reen, rich, juicy, and of pleasant flavour ; the fruit makes excellent 
preserves, if gatliered in August ; its great defect is an inclination to rot, if 
left long on the tree. 

DiAMOKD Plum. Some consider this as the largest Plum known; its 
colour is a dark purple ; in form it resembles the Magnum Bonuin, but its 
flavour is considered rather superior; it ripens in September, and the flesh 
separates clear from the stone. The tree, which grows vigorously, ori- 
ginated with Mr. Hooker, Kent, England. 

Downing's Emerald Drop. A beautiful clinkstone Plum of medium 
size, oblong form, and green colour; flesh firm and of delicious flavour; 
this variety originated at the Nursery of A. J. Downing & Co., Newburgh, 
State of New York. 

D0V.-NT0N Imperatkice. a superior late Plum, of medium size, 
shaped similar to the blue imperatrice ; skin dark yellow, and very thin 5 
the flesh yellow, soft, juicy, with a high flavoured acidity ; at perfection in 
October and November. 

Drap d'Or, Clath of GohJ, Myrabelle Double. Yellow Perdrignn of 
Winter ^ Co. A small freestone Plum, of a roundish form, and bright 
yellow colour, marbled with red; flesh yellow, tender; juice sugary and 
excellent; ripe in July and August. 

Duane's French Purple, Dame Aubert Violet. Purple Mngnum 
Bonuvi and Purple Egg <f snine cilledions. A very superior clingstone 
Plum, of large size, and oblong form ; the skin dark purple; flesh sweet, 
juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in September. This variety, from being 
imported by Rlr. Duane, of New York, was named after him, as he had lost 
the original name. 

Early 0!ili:ans, Neui Orleans, Early Monsieur, Monsieur Hatif A 
fine freestone plum, above medium size ; form round ; its sature deep ; 
colour dark purple, covered with a fine bloom; flesh greenish yellow, of 
excellent flavour ; sweet, combined with a pleasant acid ; it ripens in 
August. 

Early Tours, Precose de Tours, Early Violet. The tree is vigorous 
and fertile; fruit small, oval, dark purple covered with fine bloom; flesh 
greenish yellow, tender, juicy, and of very agreeable flavour; one of the 
best early varieties, and very productive ; ripe at the end of July. 

Elfry. French Cooper of Prince. A native clingstone Plum, highly 
esteemed in Pennsylvania and New-Jersey for its productiveness and 
other good qualities ; the fruit is below medium size, of oblong shape and 
dark blue colour; flesh firm, very rich and delicious ; in September. 

German Prune, Prune d^ All- ma gne, Dnmas Gros, Quetsche. Quefzen. 
The fruit of the Quetsche Plum is grown for the purpose of drying, and is 
considered the best for use as prunes ; fruit below the middle size ; of an 
oval figure; skin red and purple ; flesh yellow ; juice sweet, with a slight 
acid ; ripe early in September. 

Goliath, Goliah, St. Cloud: Caledonian. Wilmofs late Orleans. This 
fruit is very large, sometimes weighing four ounces; the skin is a deep 
n-ddisli purple ; the flesh pale yellow, firm, and well flavoured, but not 
rich, slightly adhering to the stone ; the tree is a great bearer, and the fruit 
id much used for cooking ; ripe in September. 



128 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP PLtTMS. 

GftEEN Gage, Great Queen Claude, Dauphine, Grosse Reine Claude^ 
Abricof. Vert, Verte Bonne, Gros Dumas Vert. A middle sized round 
fruit, of a yellowish green colour, and purplish russetty red next the sun ; 
the flesh is of a greenish hue, melting, with an abundance of very sweet and 
highly perfumed juice, of an exquisite taste ; it arrives at maturity toward 
the end of August. 

Horse Plum, Large Sweet Damson. Fruit of medium size, oval, 
with a deep sature in the middle ; skin dark red, inclining to purple when 
ripe ; flesh greenish yellow ; juice acid but agreeable. Quantities of 
these Plums are sold in the New-York markets in August and September, 
for sweetmeats. The trees are generally raised from suckers; and Peaches, 
Apricots, and Nectarines, will bud and thrive well on such stocks. 

Hur.iNo's Superb, Keyser^s Plum. This Plum is of monstrous size, 
and has been known to weigh nearly four ounces ; it is of roundish form, 
and of a greenish yellow colour ; the flesh is sweet and excellent. It was 
raised from seed by Mr. Keyser, of PennsylYania, and brought into notice 
by Dr. Wm. Hulings, of that State. 

Impf.ratrice, Imperutrice Violette, Blue Imperatrice. Simiana of 
some collecliiins. One of the best of late clingstone Plums ; fruit medium 
size, oval ; skin rich deep purple, covered with bloom ; flesh yellowish 
green, a little firm, very sweet, rich and juicy ; the fruit hangs long on the 
tree, and is at maturity in October and November. 

Imperial Diadem, Red Imperial, Red Diaper. A fine fruit, admira- 
bly adapted for culinary purposes ; shape oval ; colour pale red, but dark 
when mature; flesh yellow, and separates from the stone; juice plentiful 
when perfectly ripe, which is early in September ; it is of good flavour, 
and highly perfumed. 

Italian Damask, Damas d'ltalie. This fruit is of medium size, nearly 
round, a little flattened at the base ; its colour blue or violet, and covered 
with a purple bloom ; its flesh is yellow, rich, and juicy, and the tree, 
which matures its fruit in August, is very productive. 

Kirkk's Plum. This variety is said to be as hardy and prolific as the 
Orleans, as handsome as the Damask, and as good as the Green Gage ; fruit 
large, roundish ; skin covered with a close, firm, azure bloom, through 
which appears a few golden specks ; flesh greenish yellow, firm, juicy and 
lich ; in perfection the early part of September. 

La IIovale, Roijale. A large and excellent freestone Plum, of a homely 
dull red colour, but concealed by a thick violet or azure bloom ; flesh fine, 
yellowish green, firm, juicy, high flavoured and delicious ; a superior 
Plum ; at maturity early in Septemlier. 

Latk Purple Damson, Purple Winter Damson, Blue Damascene, Blue 
Damson. This variety is in great esteem for preserves, and generally 
commands a high price. It is of a dark purple colour, covered with bloom ; 
the i'esh has rather too much acidity for a table fruit, but this tartness 
gives it an agreeable flavour when cooked, and if the fruit remains on the 
tree until November, it becomes sweet 

Lawrence Gage, Lawrence's Favourite. A large round freestone 
Plum, of a yellowish green colour, tinged with red ; flesh firm, and of deli- 
cious flavour, similar to the Green Gage. The tree is very fertile, and yields 
en abundance of fruit in August and September. 

Lucombe's Nonsuch. This Plum is large, compressed at the summit 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS, 129 

and base ; its breadth is two inches ; its colour at maturity, as well as its 
form, resemble the Green Gage, but more streaked with yellow; flesh firm, 
rich and juicy ; at maturity in August ; tree a good bearer. 

Mimm's, Munrris Plum, Diaper Rougue. The fruit is very large, a 
little oblong ; colour bright purple, covered with thick bloom ; its flesh, 
which separates from the stone, is yellowish green, tender, juicy, and very 
Uiireeably favoured ; ripe in September. 

Morocco, Early Blade Damask, Black Damascus, Black Morocco, Early 
Damask, Early Morocco. This is considered one of the best of early 
t'iums. The tree is very hardy and productive ; fruit middle sized, 
roundish ; skin deep blackish purple, covered with a light blue bloom ; 
flesh greenish yellow, juicy, rich, and high flavoured; ripe early in August. 

Nectarine Plum, Caledonian, HoivelCs Large, Prune Peclie, Jenkm's 
Imperial. One of the most beautiful Plums known ; large, nearly round; 
the skin at maturity varies from red to crimson, covered with azure bloom; 
flesh yellowish, coarse grained, astringent ; juice abundant, and of a mild, 
pleasant flavour ; at maturity in July and early in August. 

New-York Purple, Brevoorfs Purple Bolmar, Brevonrfs Purple 
Washington. An excellent fruit, raised from a seed of Bolmar's Washing- 
ton Plum, that had been impregnated with the pollen of the Blue Gage, 
The fruit is very large; skin brown red, covered witb purple bloom ; flesh 
yellow, of a rich and brisk flavour, and adheres to the stone ; ripe towards 
the end of August. 

October Gage, Frost Gage. A beautiful native fruit, a drawing of 
which has been taken from nalure, and may be found in " Flofl^y'sOrchard- 
ist's Companion." Fruit of medium size ; form oblong ; colour dark 
brownish purple, covered with a black bloom ; flesh firm and juicy ; fla- 
vour sprightly and agreeable ; ripe early in October. 

Orleans Plum, Red Damask, Damas Rouge, Monsieur. A well 
known and productive Plum ; of medium size, and somewhat oval form ; 
tiie skin is dark red, approaching to purple, with a thin blue bloom ; 
flesh yellow, firm and good, separating freely from the stone ; ripe in August, 

Pond's Purple, Pond's Seedling. A large round purple clingstone Plum, 
a native of Massachusetts ; it is of peculiar rich flavour, not apt to crack, 
and is well adapted for the markets. The tree bears wonderful crops, 
which ripen in August. 

Princk's IniPERiAL Gage, Flushing Gage, Superior Green Gage, Whita 
Gage. This tree was originated at the Flushing nursery, from a seed of 
the Green Gage. The fruit is one of the finest of its class ; the skin at ma- 
turity is yellow, with a whitish bloom ; the flesh is rich, luscious, and of 
excellent flavour. It makes fine preserves, if gathered toward the end of 
.\ugust; at maturity in September. 

Princk's Orange Egg. A large splendid orange coloured clingstone 
Plum, of oval form, and of peculiarly rich flavour; ripe in August. The 
tree yields abundant crops of truly beautiful fruit, which is never attacked 
by insects, as many kinds are. 

Pruwe Suisse, Simiana, Prune d'Altesse, Monsieur Tardif, Swiss Prune. 
Fruit very handsome, round, flattened; colour varying from bright amber 
to deep red, and covered with azure bloom ; flesh yellow, delicious, melting, 
vmd closely adheres to the stone ; juice very abundant. An excellent 
iVuit ; ripening in September. 



130 DESCRIPTIVE MST OP PLUMS. 

Purple Gage, Blue Gage, Reine Claude V alette, Die Violetfe, Kanigin 
Claudia. This fruit is of medium size, almost round, and may be con- 
sidered as one of the finest varieties; its skin is of a violet purple colour, 
with pale yellow dots, and covered with a light blue bloom ; flesh greenish 
amber, rich, saccharine, and high flavoured : at maturity in August, and 
good until October. 

QuEKN Victoria, Sha?-p''s Emperor, Bemiyers Victoria. An excellent 
freestone Plum, as large as the Red Magnum Bimunt ; of a roundish oval 
form, and red colour, covered with a fine bloom; the flesh is firm, rich, 
juicy, nnd delicious. The tree grows very strong, and yields abundant 
crops in September. 

Red Diaper, Diapree Rouge, Roche Carbon. One of the most beau- 
tiful Plums known; form oval, above medium size; colour bright red; 
flesh greenish yellow, soft and sweet, separating from the stone ; the fruit 
makes excellent prunes, if gathered early in September, and like the Impe- 
ratrice, will hang some time on the tree. 

Red Magkum Bonum, Red Imperial, Imperial Violette of the French. 
Purple Egg of Prince and others. A large, oval Plum, of deep red colour, 
covered with blue bloom ; the flesh, which parts from the stone, is harsh 
and acid ; consequently good for cooking, preserves, &c.; in September 
and October. 

Red Perdrigon, Perdrigon Rouge. An excellent Plum, of the first class; 
of medium size, oval shape, and fine red colour, with gold coloured dots, 
and a fine bloom; flesh bright yellow, transparent, and separates from the 
stone; juice sweet and delicious; ripe e-.irly in September. It makes 
excellent prunes, not inferior to the White Perdrigon. 

Red Quken Mother. The Plum is of medium size, its colour bright 
red and yellow, somewhat spotted, and covered with pale bloom; its flesh 
is yellow, sweet and excellent, ripening early in September. A very pro- 
ductive variety, and highly deserving of cultivation. 

RoYAi. de Tours. The tree is of extraordinary vigorous growth ; its 
principal st^m rises vertically ; the fruit is globular, of medium size; red 
violet colour, and covered with azure bloom ; flesh yellow, fine, good ; juice 
abundant and sweet; ripens early in August. 

Saint Catharine. A medium sized, oblong frnit; skin bright gold 
colour, spotted with red at maturity, and covered with bloom ; flesh yel- 
low, tender, sweet, and fine flavour; ripens early in September, and will 
hang some time on the tree. A good market Plum, for which purpose it is 
much cultivated. 

Smith's Orleans. This variety is held in great esteem as a market 
fruit; the trees are free from gum and insects, and yields abundant crops 
of lar^e freestone Plums, of an oval form and purple colour. The fruit 
ripens gradually in September. 

SijRpASSE Monsieur. A large fruit, of oval form, and of a dark red 
purplish colour, raised by a Mr Noisette ; it is said to be more beautiful 
and perfumed than the Monsieur, and the tree yields suckers, which pro- 
duce fruit in all their beauty and excellence ; in September. 

Virgin ALE, White Virginal. This fruit ranks among the best of 
Plums ; its shape is round ; colour yellowish, touched with violet or rose, 
and covered with dense bloom; flesh melting, juice abundant, and ve:,v 
agreeable ; it adheres to the stone ; ripe in September. 



QUINCE. 131 

Washington, New Washington, Bolmar's Washington, Franklin. A 
very large, globular Plum, inclining to oval; colour greenish yellow, with 
crimson specks, covered with a rich bloom. This Plum has sometimes 
weighed over four ounces ; its flesh is yellow, firm, sweet and delicious ; 
in August. This variety originated in New-York, from suckers of an old 
root, the tree of which had been some time previously destroyed by light- 
ning. 

White Magnum Bonum, Yellow Magnum Bonum, Gros Luisante, Im- 
periale Blanche, Egg Plum, White Mogul, White Holland. This fruit is 
of extraordinary size, oval ; yellow, covered with pale bloom ; the flesh yel- 
low, firm, closely adhering to the stone ; excellent for cooking and pre- 
serves ; in September. 

White Pehdrigon, Perdrigon Blanc. A middle sized, oblong fruit, of a 
pale yellow, with red spots, and covered with white bloom ; flesh yellow, 
rich, saccharine and juicy, separating from the stone ; it ripens in August 
and September. 



QUINCE. 
CoiGNASsiER. Cydonia. 

The Quince is of low growth, much branched, and gene- 
rally crooked and distorted. The leaves are roundish, or 
ovate, entire, above dusky green, underneath whitish, on 
short petioles. The flowers are large, white, or pale red, 
and appear in May and June ; the fruit, a pome, varying 
in shape in the different varieties, globular, oblong, or ovate; 
it has a peculiar and rather disagreeable smell, and austere 
taste. The fruit takes its name from being a native of the 
ancient town of Cydon, in the Island of Crete ; some sup- 
pose it to be a corruption of JS/Ialiis cotonea, by which the 
Latins designated the fruit. It is used as a marmalade for 
flavouring apple pies, and makes an excellent sweetmeat ; 
and it has the advantage over many other fruits for keeping, 
if properly managed. 

Of the several sorts, the following are in greatest esteem : 
1. The oblong, or Pear Quince, with ovate leaves, and an 
cblong fruit lengthened at the base. 2. The Apple Quince, 
with ovate leaves, and a rounder fruit. 3. The Portugal 
Quince, the fruit of which is more juicy and less hai-sh than 



132 RASPBERRY. 

the preceding, and therefore the most valuable. It is rather 
a shy bearer, but is highly esteemed, as the pulp has the 
property of assuming a tine purple tint in the course of being 
prepared as a marmalade. 4. The mild or eatable Quince, 
being less austere and asti'ingent than the others. 5. The 
Orange Quince, a very handsome fruit of peculiar rich fla- 
vour. 6. The Musk or Pine Apple Quince., very large and 
beautiful. 

The Quince produces the finest fruit when planted in a 
soft, moist soil, and rather shady, or at least sheltered situa- 
tion. It is generally propagated by layers, and also by cut- 
tings, and approved sorts may be perpetuated by grafting. 
In propagating for stocks, nothing more is necessary than 
to remove the lower shoots from the layer, so as to preserve 
a clear stem as high as the graft; but for fruit-bearing 
treeS; it is necessary to train the stem to a rod, till it has 
attained four or five feet in height, and can suppoit itself 
upright. 

When planted in an orchard, the trees may be placed ten 
or twelve feet apart. The time of planting, the mode of 
bearing, and all the other particulars of culture, are the 
same as for the Apple and Pear. The chief pruning they 
require, is to keep them free from suckers, and cut out 
decayed wood. 



RASPBERRY. 

Framboisier. Rubus, etc. 

There are several species of the Rubus found wild in 
various parts of Asia, Europe, and Ameiica, some of which 
have upright stems, others prostrate ; the American Stone 
Bramble, and also the common Blackberry, Dewberry, 
Cloudberry, &c. are of this family. The Rubiis idacus, or 
common Raspberry, 'grows spontaneously in the province of 



RASPBERRY. 133 

New Brunswick, and in various parts of the United States, 
but most of the cultivated varieties are supposed to have 
originated in England. Loudon describes the true Rasp- 
berry as having "stems which are suifructicose, upright, 
rising to the height of several feet, and are biennial in du- 
ration ; but the root is perennial, producing suckeis which 
ripen and drop their leaves one year, and resume their 
foliage, produce blossom shoots, flower, and fruit, and die 
the next. The leaves are quinate-pinnate ; the flowers 
come in panicles from the extremity of the present year's 
shoots ; they are white, appear in May and June, and the 
fruit forms about a fortnight afterward." 

The fruit is grateful to most palates, as nature presents 
it, but sugar improves the flavour; accordingly it is much 
esteemed when made into sweetmeats, and for jams, tarts, 
and sauces. It is fragrant, sub-acid, and cooling; allays 
heat and thirst. It is much used in distilling. " Raspberry 
syrup is next to the Strawberry in dissolving the tartar of 
the teeth ; and as, like that fruit, it does not undei'go the 
acetous fermentation in the stomach, it is recommended to 
gouty and rheumatic patients." 

Nicol enumerates twenty-three species and varieties of the 
cultivated Raspberry, and twenty-one of the Rubus rotice, or 
Bramble ; in the latter is included the American Red and 
Black Raspberry, the Long Island and Virginian Raspber- 
ry ; also the Ohio Ever-Bearing, and the Pennsylvania 
Raspberry. The English varieties are, early Small White; 
Large White; Large Red; most Large Red Antwerp ; Large 
Yellow Antwerp ; Cane, or smooth-stalked; Twice-bearing 
White; TWice-bearing Red; Smooth Cane, twice-bearing; 
Woodward's Raspberry; Monthly, or Four Season; Dwarf 
Red Cane; Victoria Raspberry; Large Red Franconia; 
Mason's Red Cluster; McKeen's Scarlet Prolific; Chili 
Red; Cornish Red; Cox's Honey; Brentford Red ; Brent- 
ford White; Flesh-coloured; Barnet Red; Bromley Hill; 



134 RASPBERRY. 

Cretan Red; Prolific Red; Canada Purple; Rose-flower- 
ins:, "fee. 

The varieties can be perpetuated by young sucker shoots, 
rising plenteously from the root in spi'ing and summer; 
when these have completed one season's growth, they are 
proper to detach with roots for planting, either in the autumn 
of the same year, or the next spring, in March or early in 
April. These new plants will bear some fruit the first year, 
and furnish a succession of strong bottom shoots for full 
beaiing the second season. New varieties are raised from 
seed, and they come into bearing the second year. Some 
of the American species are cultivated by layers, which pro- 
duce fruit the same year. 

Raspberry beds are in their prime about the third and 
fourth year; and, if well managed, continue in perfection 
five or six years, after which they are apt to decline in 
growth, and the fruit to become small, so that a successive 
plantation should be provided in time. Select new plants 
from vigorous stools in full perfection as to bearing. Be 
careful to favour the twice bearers with a good mellow soil, 
in a sheltered situation, in order that the second crop may 
come to perfection. 

When Raspbenies are cultivated on a large scale, it is 
best to plant them in beds by themselves, in rows from 
three to five feet apart, according to the kinds. In small 
gardens, they may be planted in detached stools, or in single 
rows, in different parts of the garden, from the most sunny 
to the most shady aspect, for early and late fruit of improved 
growth and flavour. It is requisite to cut out the dead 
btems early in the spring, and to thin and regulate the suc- 
cessional young shoots; at the same time, the shoots re- 
tained should be pruned at the top, below the weak bending 
part, and some rotten dung worked in around the roots of 
the plants. Keep them clear of weeds during the summer, 
by hoeing between the rows ; at the same time eradicate all 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF RASPBERRIES. 135 

•superfluous suckers, but be careful to retain enough for 
stock in succeeding years. 

The Antwerp and other tender varieties of the Raspberry 
are Hable to be more or less injured by the severity of our 
winters; to prevent which, they should be protected by 
bending them down to the ground late in autumn, and 
covering them with earth five or six inches, sloping it off so 
as to prevent injury from rain or snow. 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF RASPBERRIES. 

Amkrican Black. Blnck Cap. This fruit is of smallish size, and ripens 
in June and July. It is a favourite with some. 

American Red, English Red, Common Red. This variety is much 
cultivated for the market. The fruit ripens in June and July, successively. 

Antwerp Red, Large Red Antwerp, Howland's Red Antwerp, Burley. 
This species is rather tender, on which account the branches must be bent 
down in autumn, and covered with soil. ' See Calendar. The fruit is large 
and beautiful, of delicious flavour, and quite fragrant ; in June and July. 

Antwerp White, Yellow Antwerp. This is also tender or half hardy, 
but very prolific ; the fruit is large, of a pale yellow colour, and much 
esteemed. It ripens in June and July. 

Barnet, Cormvallis Prolific, Lord Exmouth, Large Red. This is con- 
sidered a flrst-rate fruit, and yields abundantly ; in June and July. 

Bee Hive. A new variety, introduced by Messrs. Winter & Co., of the 
Linnssan Botanic Garden, Flushing. The fruit is large, of round shape 
and red colour ; ripe in July. 

Cornish, Large Cornish. A hardy and highly productive variety, 
yielding an abundance of Red Berries in June and July. 

Double Bearing Red, Twice Bearing. This species is very prolific, 
producing its first crop in July, and another in October. 

Flesh Coloured, Framboisier couleur de chair. A new variety, im- 
ported by W. R. Prince & Co., from France. It is described as an highly 
flavoured and much esteemed fruit. 

Franconia, Red Franconia. This variety is in great repute for its 
productiveness and the fineness of its fruit, which ripens gradually in July. 

Monthly or Four Seasons, Perpetual Bearing. This species, if 
planted in a shady situation, will produce successional crops throughout 
the summer. 

Red Tall Cane. There are several species of the Cane Raspberry, 
some of which are worthless. The Tall Red Cane produces fine fruit in 
July and August, and very frequently in autumn. 

Victoria. This Queen of Raspberries has been imported by W. R. 
Prince, and plants are offered for sale at his nursery at Flushing, for twen- 
ty-five cents each. 



136 STRAWBERRY. 

STRAWBERRY. 
Fraisier. Fragaria. 

This is a genus of fruit-bearing herbaceous plants, of 
which there are few in the vegetable kingdom that can 
equal the Strawberry in wholesomeness and excellence. 
The fruit is supposed to receive its name from the ancient 
practice of laying straw between the rows, which keeps the 
ground moist and the fruit clean. They are natives of tem- 
perate, or cold climates, as of Europe and America. The 
fruit, though termed a berry, is, in correct botanical lan- 
guage, a fleshy receptacle, studded with seeds. It is univer- 
sally grateful alone, or with sugar, cream, or wine, and has 
the property, so valuable for acid stomachs, of not under- 
going the acetous fermentation. Physicians concur in 
placing Strawberries in their small catalogue of pleasanJ 
remedies ; as having properties which render them, in most 
conditions of the animal frame, positively salutary ; they 
dissolve the tartareous incrustations of the teeth ; they pro- 
mote- perspiration. Persons afflicted with the gout have 
found relief from using them very largely ; so have patients 
in case of the stone ; and Hoffman states, that he has known 
consumptive people cured by them. The bark of the root 
is astringent. 

In cultivating the Strawberry, an open situation and rich 
loamy soil, rather strong, is required for most varieties; and 
from their large mass of foliage and flowers, they must, till 
the fruit is set, have copious supplies of water. The row 
culture is best calculated to produce fruit ; and frequent 
renewal insures vigorous plants, as well as large fruit. Some 
plant them in single rows, from twelve to eighteen inches 
apart, according to the sorts ; others form a bed with four 
rows. If several beds be intended, a space of two or three 
feet may be left between each bed as a path ; and in the 
second or third season, the paths may be manured and dug, 



STRAWBERRY. 137 

to admit of the runners taking root; by this means, a 
renewal may be made so often, and the old stools being 
taken away, leaves spaces between the beds as before. Or, 
new plantations may be made every season; because, after 
the roots are fairly established, they multiply spontaneously, 
as well by suckers from the parent stem, as by numerous 
runners ; all of which, rooting and forming a plant at every 
joint, require only removal to a spot where there is room 
for them to flourish. If taken off, and planted in rows in 
August and September, they will produce fine fruit the fol- 
lowing season, and will bear in full perfection the second 
summer; some, howevei", prefer spring planting, which 
answers very well, if done in damp weather. 

A plantation of the Alpine yields fruit the same year that 
it is made. The Wood and the Alpine are often cultivated 
from seed, which generally produces fine fruit. The other 
species are uniformly propagated by offsets, except the inten- 
tion be to try for new varieties. The Alpine and Wood 
species may be planted in situations rather cool and shady, 
in order that they may produce their fruit late in the season, 
which is desirable. The Strawberry, with a little trouble 
of choosing a succession of sorts, may be forced so as to be 
had at the dessert every month in the year ; though, during 
the winter months, they have not much flavour. 

Some gardeners lay straw an inch or two thick over their 
beds in March, and set fire to it, in order to promote a 
stocky growth of plants and early fruit; others recommend 
mowing off the tops of such as are not required to fruit 
early, while they are in blossom, with a view to obtain a 
crop of Strawberries late in the season. 

The London Horticultural Catalogue contains the names 
of about one hundred and fifty varieties of all the species, 
which are classed according to their nature, colour, &c. 
Class 1. Scarlet Strawberries; 2. Black Strawberries; 3. 
Pine Strawberries ; 4. Chili Strawberries ; 5. Hautbois 
Strawberries; Green Strawberries; 7. Alpine and Wood 



138 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF STRAWBERRIES. 

Strawberries. To select all the most esteemed from this, 
or any other extensive catalogue, is a difficult task ; the fol- 
lowing desciiption of species and varieties may serve to 
direct the choice : — 



SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF STRAWBERRIES. 

The Wood Strawberry, Fragaria vesea, with oval serrated leaves ; the 
fVuit red, white, and green, which is round and small. A native of Britain. 
Some of the varieties are in great repute, as they are very productive, and 
continue long in bearins. 

The Scarlet. Fragaria Virginiana, with leaves like the preceding; the 
fruit roundish and scarlet-coloured. A native of Virginia. Varieties — 
Methven Scarlet, Knight's Scarlet, Austrian Scarlet, Early Scarlet, Wilmot's 
late. Common late, Wilmot's Early Scarlet, &c. 

The Roseberry, Fragaria, Virg var. An Aberdeen seedling, intro- 
duced in ISIO. The plants have few roundish leaves, larger fruit than the 
scarlet, and are very prolific ; continues bearing till August. 

Thr Black var. Downton, Dark Scarlet Strawberry, originated by Mr. 
Knight. The fruit is large, irregular, and cockscomb-like ; plant hardy and 
prolific. 

The Carolina, Fragaria Carolinensis; colour dark red ; a native of 
America. There are several choice varieties of this fruit, as — Elton's Seed- 
ling, Keen's Seedling, Mulberry, Wilmot's Black Imperial, Blood Pine, 
North's Seedling, Knevet's Seedling, &c. 

The Musky, or Hautbois, Fragaria elatier, with oval, rough, javelin- 
edged leaves. A native of Britain. Varieties — Black Hautbois, White 
Hautbois, Globe Hautbois, Conical Hautbois, Double or Twice Bearing, 
producing delicious fruit in spring and autumn. 

The Chili, Fragaria. Chiliensis, with large, oval, thick, hairy leaves, 
and large flowers ; thf> fruit large and very firm ; a native of South Ameri- 
ca. Wilmot's Suberb, or Large Cockscomb Scarlet, Knight's Seedling, and 
Greenwell's New Giant, are highly esteemed varieties. 

Keen's Imperial, or New Chili, Fragaria Chili var., raised by Mr. 
Keen, of Isleworth, a most excellent bearer, ripening early. The fruit is 
very large ; the flesh firm and solid, without any separate core : colour 
scarlet. 

The Alpine, or PROLiFic,li'rag-ano!coZZi?ia, commonly lasts from June 
till November, and in mild seasons till near Christmas ; the varieties of this 
fruit are red and white. Natives of the Alps of Kurope. 

The One-Leaved, Fragaria monophylla, the pulp of the fruit, pink- 
coloured. A native of South America. 

The following varieties have been lately propagated from 
some of the above species : — 



DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF STRAWBERRIES. 139 

Bishop's Orange, Bishop's Globe, Bishop's New. Fruit large, of rounU- 
ish or connical form ; orange scarlet colour, and very delicious flavour ; 
ripe early in July. 

Garnstone Scaklet. A fine, highly esteemed scarlet variety, of large 
size, roundish form and peculiarly rich flavour, which ripens early in 
June. 

EI.To.^•, Elton Pine Strawberry. Fruit very large ; form heart shaped, 
or obtusely conical; colour bright dark scarlet ; flesh firm, rosy red ; flavour 
very rich, spicy, aromatic and agreeable. A beautiful drawing of this fruit 
is given in " Hoffy's Orchardist's Companion," from whence the above 
description was taken. 

Gkove End Scarlet, Atkinson's Scarlet. A seedling raised by Wm. 
Atkinson, at Grove End, Marylebone, in 1820; fruit large, oblate, of a 
bright Vermillion colour, and rich flavour ; ripe by the middle of June. 

Hovey's Seedling. This favourite variety was raised by Messrs. Hovey 
& Co., of Boston, in 1834. Fruit very large ; form round, or slightly 
ovate, conical ; colour deep shining red, paler in the shade ; flesh scarlet, 
and firm, abounding in an agreeable acid, and high flavoured juice, not sur- 
passed by any other variety ; ripe early in July. 

Hudson's Bay, America?! Scarlet, Velvet Scarlet, Large Hudson. Fruit 
large, of ovate form; represented by Mr. Downing as the best for market ; 
early in July. 

Monthly Red Alpine. Fruit of medium size, and conical form ; con- 
tinues bearing fruit moderately from June till winter. 

Myatt's British Queen. The-fruit of this celebrated variety is said to 
be of monstrous size ; in form roundish, and in quality first-rate ; about 
the middle of July. 

Myatt's Pine. A medium sized fruit of ovate form, and very rich fla- 
voured ; ripening in July. 

Prince Albert. A new variety lately raised in London, represented 
as a large fruit of ovate form, very splendid in appearance, and delicious 
in flavour ; ripe in July. 

Prince's New Pine. An excellent seedling variety of large size and 
ovate form. Raised by Wm. R. Prince, of Flushing; ripe early in July. 

Rosebehry Montevideo, Montevideo Early Scarlet. An improved 
American seedling, from the common Roseberry : of large size, conical 
form, and fine flavour ; ripe early in July. 

Swainstone's Seedling. This variety is described as large, ovate, and 
of the very first quality, ripening one crop early in June, and a second crop 
in autumn. 

Victoria, Higgins's Seedling. The fruit of this variety is greatly 
esteemed : it is extra large, of roundish form, and exquisite flavour ; early 
in July. 

Warren's Seedling, Warren's Methven. This is represented as a 
peculiar fruit, being of large size, and in form nearly flat ; it is moreover of 
a rich pine-apple flavour, and yields abundantly throughout the month of 
July. 

White Bush Alpine, New White Alpine. A medium sized berry, of 
ovate form and agreeable flavour : the plant has no runners, and ripens its 
fruit in June and July. 



140 WALNUT. 

All the species and varieties of this fruit are highly esti- 
mated in Britain, where they are cultivated in great perfec- 
tion. Berries have been known to weigh from one to two 
ounces, which have been grown to the circumference of 
eight inches and upward. It m.ay be gratifying to the lovers 
of this excellent fruit to be informed that some of the best 
kinds are attainable here. The late Jesse Buel, Esq., of 
Albany, informed us, in the Albany Argus, of Jane 23, 1830, 
that he had grown the Downton, (a variety of the Chili, 
crossed by Mr. Knight,) two years in succession, 4f inches 
in circumference. He said, that " he picked a pailftd that 
morning of the Methven Scarlet Strawberry, which had an 
average circumference of three inches each. Several mea- 
sured four inches, and one four and a quarter inches. Sixty- 
three, divested of the calyx, weig-hed a pound, which is a 
trifle more than four to the ounce." Several of the choicest 
kinds have been lately transplanted from the London Socie- 
ty's Garden into the American Nurseries, and some fine 
native seedlings have been lately propagated, which will 
bear comparison with many of the best foreign varieties. 



WALNUT. 

NoYER. Juglans. , 

From the circumstance of our having an abundance of the 
fruit, from the many species of this genus of trees growing 
spontaneously around us, it is presumed that the culture of 
the Juglans regia, commonly called English Walnut, or 
Madeira Nut, has been neglected by many of our citizens. 
It is a native of Persia, and is cultivated in France, England, 
and in other parts of Europe, both as a fruit and timber 
tree. The fruit, in England, is much used in a green state 
for pickling, and also as an adulteration of soy sauce. In 
France, an oil, which supplies the place of that of Almondsj 



WALNUT. 



141 



is made from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gratings 
of old and hard nuis, first peeled, into their tarts and other 
meats. The leaves strewed on the ground, and left there, 
annoy moles, or macerated in warm water, afford a hquor 
which will destroy them. The unripe fruit is used in medi- 
cine for the purpose of destroying worms in the human 
body. Phny says, "the more Walnuts one eats, with the 
more ease will he drive worms out of the stomach." 

The timber is considered lighter, in proportion to its 
strength and elasticity, than any other, and therefore com- 
monly used in England for gun stocks. It is used in cabi- 
net work in most parts of Europe ; the young timber is 
allowed to make the finest coloured work, but the old to be 
finest variegated for ornament. When propagated for tim- 
ber, the nut is sown ; but when fruit is the object, inarching 
from the branches of fruit - bearing trees is preferable. Bud- 
ding is also practised by some ; the buds succeed best when 
taken from the base of the annual shoots ; ordinary sized 
buds from the upper part of such shoots generally fail. 

Walnut trees that have not been grafted or budded, may 
be induced to produce blossoms by ringing the bark, that is, 
cutting out a streak of the bark around the body or main 
branches of the tree. Walnut trees seldom yield much 
fruit until fifteen or twenty years old ; it is produced on the 
extremities of the preceding year's shoots. The trees should 
stand forty or fifty feet apart, and they may be permitted to 
branch out in their natural order. They need but little 
pruning, merely to regulate any casual disorderly growth, 
to reduce over-extended branches, and to prune up the low 
stragglers. 

Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected or 
abandoned by any, I annex a description of the different 
kinds : 

Jvf^lans cathartictis, is known under the name of Butter 
nut, Oilnut, and white Walnut ; these nuts are used by the 
Indians as a medicine. 



142 



WALNUT. 



Juglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large size ; 
its fruit is known to be excellent. 

Juglans olivceformis, Pecan, or Illinois nut, is delicious. 
The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called thick shell bark, 
Hickory, and Springfield, and Gloucester nut, are large and 
well-tasted. The shell bark Hickory, shag bark, or scaly 
bark Hickory, Juglans alba, is so called on account of its 
bark, which is torn lengthwise in long loose strips, as in, J. 
sulcata. The Juglans tormentosa, the Mucker nut, white 
heart Hickory, or common Hickory, and most of the other 
kinds enumerated, are worth preserving ; or cultivating 
where there is none, for its timber for mechanical purposes ; 
and that of the Juglans glabra, or Hog nut, is useful for 
brooms, &c. 



143 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 



JANUARY. 

The clear icicle shines in the sun's faint beam, 
Congealed is the river, the lake, and the stream, 
The trees are all leafless, while sullen winds roar, 
And Nature benumbed, seems her fate to deplore. 

As the weather at this season of the year is generally 
unfavourable to any employment in the Orchard or Fruit 
Garden, I cannot occupy a few pages more appropriately 
than in directing the reader's attention to subjects connected 
with improvements in the several species and varieties of 
Fruits ; for it must be admitted that there is no kind of 
fruit, however delicious, that may not be deteriorated, or 
however worthless, that may not be ameliorated, by particu- 
lar modes of management; so that after a given variety 
shall have been created, its merits may be either elicited or 
destroyed by the cultivator. In this place those practices 
only need be considered that tend to improvement. 

It is an indubitable fact, that all our fruits, without excep- 
tion, have been so much ameliorated by various circum- 
stances, that they no longer bear any resemblance in respect 
of quality to their original. Who, for instance, would 
recognize the wild parent of the Green Gage Plum in the 
austere Sloe, or that of the delicious Pippin Apples in the 
worthless acid Crab "? Or, what resemblance can be traced 
between our famous Beurre Pears, whose flesh is so succu- 
lent, lich and melting, and that hard, stony, astringent fruit, 
which even birds and animals refuse to eat 1 Yet these are 
undoubted cases of improvement, resulting from time and 
skill patiently and constantly in action. But it would be of 
little service to mankind that the quality of any fruit should 
be improved, unless we adopt some efficient and certain 



144 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

mode of multiplying the individuals when obtained. Hence 
there are two great objects which the cultivator should aim 
at, viz Jhnelioration and Propagation. 

In planting seed for the purpose of procuring improved 
varieties, care should be taken not only that the seed be 
selected from the finest existing kinds, but also that the 
most handsome, the largest, and the most perfectly ripened 
specimens should be those that supply the seed. A seedling 
plant will always partake more or less of the character of 
its parent, the qualities of which are concentrated in the 
embryo, when it has arrived at full maturity. As this sub- 
ject has been already discussed in the second part of this 
work, page 133, I shall direct the reader's attention to the 
operation of Cross Fertilization. 

This is effected by the action of the pollen of one plant 
upon the stigma of another. The nature of this action is 
highly curious. Pollen consists of extremely minute hollow 
balls or bodies ; their cavity is filled with fluid, in which 
swim particles of a figure varying from spherical to oblong, 
and having an apparently spontaneous motion. The stigma 
is composed of veiy lax tissue, the intercellular passages of 
which have a greater diameter than the moving particles of 
the pollen. When a grain of pollen comes in contact with 
the stigma, it bursts, and discharges its contents among the 
lax tissue upon which it has fallen. The moving particles 
descend through the tissue of the style, until one, or some- 
times more, of them finds its way, by routes especially des- 
tined by nature for this service, into a little opening in the 
integuments of the ovulum or young seed. Once deposited 
there, the particle swells, increases gradually in size, sepa- 
rates into radicle and, cotyledons, and finally becomes the 
embryo, — the part which is to give birth, when the seed is 
sown, to a new individual. Such being the mode in which 
the pollen influences the stigma, and subsequently the seed, 
a practical consequence of great importance necessarily fol- 
lows, viz., that in all cases of cross fertilization, the new 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 145 

variety will take chiefly after its polliniferous or male 
parent; and that at the same time it will acquire some of 
the constitutional peculiarities of its mother. Thus the male 
parent of the Downton Strawberry was the Old Black, the 
female a kind of Scarlet. In Coe's Golden Drop Plum, the 
father was the Yellow Magnum Bonum, the mother the 
Green Gage ; and in the Elton Cherry, the White Heart 
was the male parent, and the Graffion the female. 

The limits within which experiments of this kind must be 
confined are, however, narrow. It seems that cross fertili- 
zation will not take place at all, or very rarely, between dif- 
ferent species, unless these species are nearly related to each 
other : and that the offspring of the two distinct species is 
itself sterile, or if it possesses the power of multiplying itself 
by seed, its progeny returns back to the state of one or other 
of its parents. Hence it seldom or never has happened that 
domesticated fruits have had such an origin. We have no 
varieties raised between the Apple and the Pear, or the 
Plum and Cherry, or the Gooseberry and the Currant. On 
the other hand, new varieties obtained by the intermixture 
of two pre-existing varieties are not less prolific, but, on the 
contrary, often more so than either of their parents : wit- 
ness the numerous sorts of Flemish Pears which have been 
raised by cross fertilization from bad bearers, within the last 
thirty years, and which are the most prolific trees with 
which gardeners are acquainted ; witness also Mr. Knight's 
Cherries, raised between the May Duke and the Grafiion, 
and the Coe's Plum already mentioned. It is therefore to 
the intermixture of the most valuable existing varieties of 
fruit that gardeners should trust for the amelioration of their 
stock. By this operation the Pears that are in eating in the 
spring have been rendered as delicious and as fertile as 
those of the autumn ; and there is no apparent reason why 
those very early, but worthless sorts, such as the Muscat 
Robert, which usher in the season of Pears, should not be 
brought to a similar state of perfection. 



146 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

Lindley recomrnends the operation of cross fertilization 
to be performed early in the morning of a dry day ; about 
sun-rise is a good time to begin, and before the blossom is 
entirely expanded ; the pollen being at that time humid, is 
closely attached to the anthers. The blossoms must be care- 
fully opened and the anthers extracted by delicate scissors, 
care being taken not to wound the filaments or any other 
part of the flower. This being done, the matured pollen 
from another variety must be carefully placed on the blossom 
which it is intended to fertilize, and from which the anthers 
have been extracted ; and this operation must be repeated 
twice or three times in the course of the day. By shaking 
the blossoms over a sheet of white paper, the time when it 
is perfectly matured will be ascertained. It is necessary to 
protect the prepared blossom from bees and other insects 
with thin book-muslin, or gauze, till a swelling is perceived 
in the germ. When the process has been successful, the 
pollen which has been ])laced on the stigma becomes so 
attached that it cannot be removed with a hair pencil ; it 
changes form and colour, and soon disappears, and the blos- 
som will soon wither and fade ; but when the process has 
been imperfect, the pollen is easily detached from the stig- 
ma, its appearance is unaltered, and it remains visible with 
the duration of the flower, which will continue a long time. 

For further information on these subjects, see Outlines of 
the First Principles of Horticulture, pages 120 to 140 of the 
second part of this work. 



CLAENDAR AND INDEX. 147 

FEBRUARY. 

Without 'tis a desert, too bleak for a ram, 
Within we have one — merely Apples and Jam, 
Preserved for the season, with skill and with care, 
By the hands of the thrifty, the good, and the fair ! 

As the season for pruning fruit trees and vines com- 
mences in the various parts of our country at different 
periods, according to the chmate, I vv^ould submit a few^ 
general remarks on the subject, v^ith a \iew to prepare the 
gardener for the performance of the v^^ork in a skilful man- 
ner, and at the proper season ; for be it remembered that 
untimely or injudicious pruning may produce injury instead 
of benefit, and in many cases defeat the real object of the 
operation. 

Having given ample directions for the cultivation of the 
various species of fruit, I would recommend the novice to 
peruse every article before he enters upon the ^vork of the 
garden ; he will there discover that no single rule will apply 
to every kind of fruit ; first, because the mode of bearing is 
different in almost every distinct species ; secondly, because 
the sap rises eaiiier and continues longer in the branches of 
some species than in others; and thirdly, because some 
trees, as the Plum for instance, is apt to gum, if pruned too 
soon in the season, and the grape vine to bleed if delayed 
too long. For the above, and other reasons that may be 
given, the gardener should examine all his fruit trees fre- 
quently in this month, with his implements at hand, and if 
circumstances will not admit of a general pruning, he may 
cut off dead branches, and clear trees from moss and canker, 
also search for the nests of insects, and destroy them while 
in a torpid state. This will assist the natural efforts of the 
trees, in casting off the crude and undigested juices, which 
if confined in them will in a short time destroy them, or 
some of their branches. 

As soon as the severity of the winter is over, the hardy 



148 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

and half hardy grape-vines should be judiciously pruned, by 
cutting out old branches which produced fruit the preceding 
year, as well as all superfluous and weak young shoots, 
leaving the strong summer shoots for bearers the coming 
season, which should be judiciously trained as recommended 
in articles, pages 21 and 72. 

In pruning all desciiptions of trees, some general rules 
may be observed. In cutting out defective branches, 
prune close to the healthy wood, and also shorten such 
shoots as have been injured by the winter, to the full extent, 
or even a few inches beyond, where damage has been sus- 
tained. 

In pruning healthy young trees the limbs should not be 
too closely pruned, because this would occasion more lateral 
shoots to put forth than is beneficial to the tree ; which, if 
not rubbed off in the summer, while quite young, and as it 
were herbaceous, they will form crowded branches, which 
may not yield good fruit. In doing this disbudding, how- 
ever, care must be taken to leave shoots in a suitable direc- 
tion, sufficient for the formation of an open and handsome 
head to the tree, according to its kind. 

It may be observed, farther, that in the event of young 
trees, taken from the nursery, being deficient in fibrous 
roots, as is sometimes the case, close pruning may be neces- 
sary to maintain a proper equilibrium between the roots and 
the head, but it should be borne in mind, that foliage is as 
essential to the maintenance of the roots, as roots are neces- 
sary to the promotion of the growth of the head ; because 
the secretion of plants being formed in leaves, it follows that 
secretions cannot take place if leaf buds are destroyed. 

As vegetation makes rapid progress in our climate after 
the frost is out of the ground, the gardener should employ 
himself in unfavourable weather, in providing implements 
and materials for the performance of the work of the gar- 
den everjr fine day, in order that his pruning and planting 
may be done before the too rapid advance of the sap. 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 



J^49 



By such management, he will not only promote the wel- 
fare of his fruit garden, but will save himself much anxiety 
and labour as the season progresses. For some appropriate 
hints, relative to the employment of this month, see the 
Calendar for January and February, in the first part of this 
work, pages 148 and 149, also page 53 of the second part, 
and pages 21 and 34 of the third part. 

Toward the latter end of this month, it will be time to 
prune and train grape vines in many situations. Provide 
shreds or strips of woollen cloth about half an inch wide, or 
list from broad cloth, which is still better ; also small sharp- 
pointed nails to use in training vines and such fmit-trees as 
require, training. 

If any removals are contemplated, or if fresh trees or 
vines are required, arrangements should be made to have 
them planted as soon as the ground can be brought into good 
condition. See pages from 9 to 11, also pages 93, 101 to 104. 

If the kernels of the Apple, Pear, and Quince, and the pits 
of the Apricot, Cherry, Peach, and Plum were not planted 
last autumn, as directed, let it be done as soon as the earth 
can be brought into tillable condition, because exposure to 
frost is essential to their vegetating, . 



MARCH. 



The Gard'ner at work, ere the birds pipe a tune, 
Each fruit-tree inspects, then commences to prune ; 
The insects destroying, on branches or root. 
That injure the blossom, or live in the fruit. 

If the weather be mild this month, considerable work 
may be done in the fruit garden and orchard, before the 
ground can be brought into suitable condition for ploughing, 
digging, or planting. 

Prune grape vines early in this month, if not done last 
month, but withhold the knife until you have surveyed the 



150 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

plant, and selected a full supply of the last sumrner shoots 
at regular distances from each other, for bearers the coming 
summer ; cut out the superabundant, with most of the last 
year's bearers, and naked wood. Prune so that a young 
shoot will terminate each branch, and shorten the reserved 
shoots ; the smallest to three or four joints, and the strong 
ones to ten or twelve. Fasten the vines to trellises as soon 
as pruned, with list, or shieds of woollen cloth, arranging the 
general branches from ten to twelve inches' distance, more 
or less, according to the size of the vines and space allotted 
for them to grow in. Preserve all strong shoots to make 
cuttings with, to be planted next month, which will produce 
vines fit to set out next year. See Observations on Training 
and Pruning, page 21 ; also, article Grape Vine, 72 to 88. 

Prune Apple trees, 38; Cherry, 52; Pear, 112; Quince, 
132; also, Currant bushes, 59; Gooseberry, 71; cutting out 
all crowded branches, worn-out bearers, and decayed wood. 
If not done in the autumn, plantations may be made this 
month of all the above species. 

Cut out and destroy all the old stems of Raspberry shrubs, 
reserving three or four of the strongest young shoots on each 
stool ; shorten them at the top, and take away all others, 
the strongest of which may be transplanted to form a new 
bed. Lay the trailing varieties for propagation, 134. 

In transplanting trees, care should be taken that the col- 
lar, or that part from which emanates the main roots, be not 
inserted too deep in the soil, as this injures the bark, and, 
consequently, impedes the natural circulation of the juices. 
A medium sized tree may be planted one inch deeper than 
it was in the nursery bed, and the largest should not exceed 
two or three inches, 9, 93, 101 and 125. 

Plant cuttings and suckers of Gooseberries and Currants, 
also, of such fruit trees as produce them, in order to raise 
stocks to bud and graft upon ; fruit stones and kernels may 
also be planted for the same purpose. 

Young trees, shrubs, and vines may be obtained at public 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 151 

nurseries, in different stages of growth, suited for general 
planting; and others sufficiently advanced for immediate 
bearers ; these should be carefully taken up, and replanted. 
For full infoiraation on this subject, the reader is referred to 
the article, ' On the Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery,' 
page 32. 

Toward the end of the month is a good time to prepare 
for the cultivation of Cranberries ; they thrive best in a wet 
soil, but will grow on almost any land, by giving it a top- 
dressing of peat, bog, or swamp earth. As soon as such ground 
can be brought into tillable condition, get plants that were 
produced from layers of the last season, and set them out in 
rows about two feet apart ; they will soon cover the ground 
by their runners, which, on being layed, will produce an 
abundance of plants well adapted for additional plantations 
in succeeding years. See page 57. 

Provide Cedar or Chestnut stakes for the purpose of 
driving into the ground, to protect newly planted trees from 
injury by the wind. 



APRIL. 



No advocate he for a long morning nap. 
Waking early, he plants ere the rise of the sap ; 
Whilst glee and good humour enliven his face, 
More happy, by far, than his Lordship or Grace. 

Finish pruning hardy fruit trees the early part of this 
month; also Apricot, 47 ; Almond, 51 ; Fig, 63; Mulberry, 
90; Nectarine, 94; Peach, 104; Plum, 125; not forgetting 
such trees, vines, and shrubs as may have been left undone 
last month. At the same time manure and dig the ground 
around every fruit tree that requires it. 

Prepare the ground for planting, by digging, trenching, 
and manuring, either generally, or in such particular places 
as are allotted for the trees to be planted in, page 9. 



152 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

This is the most proper season for planting the Apricot, 
Almond, Fig, Grape, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, and all 
such fruit trees, vines, or shrubs as originated in warm cli- 
mates. Apple, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Quince and other 
hardy fruit trees, may also be planted with safety early in 
this month; but autumn is considered the most favourable 
season for planting all trees, vines, or shrubs of northern 
latitude, 10, 93, 101 and 125. 

Those who have a variety of soil should accommodate all 
the varied kinds of fruit to that which has been proved to 
be the best adapted to its culture; and due attention should 
be paid to situation and aspect, in planting a fruit garden or 
orchard, 12. 

Use means to destroy insects while in a torpid state, to 
prevent theii' spreading, and also the larvae of insects ; direc- 
tions for which will be found in the article headed, ' Obser- 
vations on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are 
liable,' 13. 

Grafting may be performed on fruit trees in general, 27; 
prune and plant Currant bushes, 59; Filbert, 65; Goose- 
berry, 70; Raspberry, 134. Plant cuttings and suckers 
from these shrubs ; also of such trees as produce them, in 
order to get a supply of stocks to bud and graft upon, as 
well as some for bearing. Fruit stones and kernels of 
various kinds may be planted for the same purpose. 

This is a good season to plant cuttings of Grape Vines, 
and the vine may also be propagated by layers, that is, by 
bending a young shoot down into the earth a few inches, 
and pinning it down with a forked stick. The top may be 
tied to a small stake, to keep it perpendicular ; 76 and 81. 
The tender vines that were laid down in autumn, should be 
taken up, and fastened to trellises or stakes. 

Uncover and raise up the Antwerp and other tender 
varieties of the Raspberry, and prune them, before the buds 
shoot, at the same time cullivate the ground around them, 
and drive in stakes for their support. In ordei to obtain a 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. M3 

good supply of Raspberries in the autumn, cut down some 
of the twice beariug varieties close to the ground, which will 
occasion strong suckers to shoot up, that will yield an abun- 
dant crop of fruit at a season when other varieties are not 
.attainable, 134. 

Strawberry beds that were protected with leaves or litter 
through the winter, should be uncovered, and the plants 
carefully cultivated ; some lay straw over their beds, an inch 
or two thick, and set fire to it, 137. 

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be 
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. 
Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit 
trees, and sow the ashes over the ground, 18 and 91. 



MAY. 



The Gooseberry green the first fruit of the year, 
In pudding or pie, aiSbrds exquisite cheer, 
But e'en should the season their pleasure forefend, 
In such a dilemma, green Rhubarb'' s a friend. 

Finish planting trees, vines, and shrubs as early in this 
month as possible ; those planted last month should be kept 
watered in dry weather, and stakes should be applied to 
such as may be exposed to the wind, 93, 101 and 125. 

Finish grafting early in this month. Apples, Pears, and 
other late-shooting kinds may still succeed, 27. 

Strawberry beds may be made early in this month, and if 
the transplanting is well done, and the plants frequently 
watered, they will produce some fruit this year, and a plen- 
tiful supply the next season. Hovey's American Seedling 
is worthy a place in every good collection for its productive- 
ness, and the superiority of its fiuit. The Methven Scarlet, 
and Mulberry or Pine, are large and yield plentifully. 
Kean's Seedling, and also the Downton, are of superior fla- 
vour. The Elton Seedling, Southborough Seedling, Myatt's 



154 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

Seedling, and Bishop's Orange, are in great repute where 
cultivated. The old Scarlet, being one of the earliest, 
should not be forgotten. The Wood and the Alpine Straw- 
berry will produce fine fruit from seed sown in the spring. 
For names of other varieties, mode of planting, &c., see 
article, page 136. 

If frost prevail when fruit trees are in blossom, those 
trained on trellises, or against walls and fences, may be pro- 
tected by hanging matting or sheets of tow cloth over them; 
some defend them by sticking bunches of evergreens be- 
tween the branches, as cedar, laurel, pine, &c. The object 
in doing this, is not so much to keep out the frost, as to 
break off the sun's rays in the morning after a frosty night, 
because the sudden transition from cold to heat does more 
injury than the cold itself. 

Propagate Fig trees by layers, cuttings, suckers, and by 
grafting, 62. 

If any webs or larvae of insects appear on the leaves of 
fruit trees and vines, pluck off and destroy such leaves before 
the in-sects become quickened, which may be a means of 
preventing any depredation to the advancing leaves and 
buds. The trees of Plum and other stone fruit are very apt 
to gum and canker at this season of the year : in such cases 
the defective parts should be pruned closely off, and whale 
oil soap applied to the wound, A little soot also should 
be rubbed on while wet. In large fruit gardens and or- 
chards, means should be used to destroy insects by fumiga- 
tion, washing, &c. For various remedies, see Observations 
on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are liable, 
page 13; see, also, article ]jage 30. 

Divest young budded and grafted trees of all shoots from 
the stocks, below the bud or graft, as they appear ; also rub 
off all useless buds in early-shooting wall trees, as Nectarine, 
Apricots, &c., 48. 

To protect Gooseberries and other fruits from mildews 
sprinkle the leaves with soap-suds ; and while they are wet. 



CALENDAR AND INDEX, W5 

SOW sulphur lightly over them. This may be done two or 
three times a week if necessary, as it is better to use a little of 
the ingredients frequently, than too much at once. A solution 
made of saltpetre and stone lime is also a good remedy; but 
it must be used with caution. See pages 14 and 71. 



JUNE. 



The Cherry, the Currant, and Strawberry red, 

To the rich and the poor their refreshment have shed ; 

Pomonia has scatter'd her blessings abroad, 

The full-bearing branches bend down with their load. 

The principal business of this month in the fruit garden 
is summer pruning, which is generally performed with the 
finger and thumb, by detaching all superfluous shoots and 
buds; and also to thin the young fruit of Apricot, Nectarine, 
and other choice trained trees, where it sets too thick or in 
clusters. The Apricots, so thinned off, and the first princi- 
pal green fruit, will make excellent pies and tarts. See 
pages 48 and 92. 

Cherry trees of the finest sorts may be defended from 
birds, with nets, particularly those trained as espaliers, 52. 

Currant and Gooseberry shrubs of choice late varieties, 
trained as espaliers or standards, if very crowded with 
shoots of the year, should be pruned, and the Gooseberry 
fruit thinned, to promote its growth and ripening in full per- 
fection, 59 and 71. 

All trees on espaliers require attention; cut off such 
superfluous shoots as are not required to be trained in, 
leaving well-situated middle-sized shoots to supply the place 
of any old branches that it may bo thought necessary to cut 
away, 23. 

Grape Vines should be looked over every week. Cut off 
all the tendrils and useless young shoots, and stop the shoots 
before the bunches of fruit. Train up the shoots for bear-- 



156 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

ing next season, and to a proper length, before you stop 
them, 86. 

Newly planted trees should be watered in dry hot wea- 
ther; an occasional hoeing around them will also be bene- 
ficial, but care must be taken not to injure the roots. 

The trained trees and espaliers should be examined fre- 
quently, and cleared of dead leaves and insects ; which can 
be done by the hand, with very little trouble. For the 
destruction of Rose Bugs on Grape Vines and Fruit Trees, 
see article Grape, page 84. 

Those who have plenty of Strawberry beds, may, by 
mowing the tops from some of them while they are in blos- 
som, obtain a supply of fruit at a season when Strawberries 
are scarce. The beds will require to be hoed, and watered 
in dry weather, 136 and 137. 



JULY. 



The Margaret Apple, the pride of our clime. 
With the Apricot, Raspberry, true to their time. 
Are pleasant companions, as summer e'er met, 
Though others, as welcome, are coming on yet. 

Thin the fruit of Apricots, which will be good for pies and 
tarts; thin Nectarines; also such Peaches and other fruits 
as may be desired in full perfection, 48 and 92. 

Defend choice fruit from birds and insects, such as 
wasps, flies, &c.; the birds may be kept off by nets, and the 
insects may be decoyed and drowned, by placing phials of 
strong liquor, honey, or sugared water near the fruit. 

If annoyed with ants, place cuttings of reed, hollowed elder 
or anything of a tube-like kind, in which they will harbour, 
and may be destroyed by dipping the tubes in hot water. 

[f mildew appear on Grape Vines, syringe them with 
water, in which a small quantity of saltpetre and stone lime 
has been infused, (it need not be over strong.) To prevent 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 157 

any injurious effects from the lime, the vines may be syr- 
inged alternately with the liquid and pure water, each two 
or three times a week. A little sulphur dusted over whUe 
the leaves are wet is also a good remedy, 14. 

Look over your trained Fruit Trees and Grape Vines; 
stop the shoots before the bunches of fruit, and train up 
such shoots as are reserved for bearing next year. Nip oif 
curled and dead leaves, and destroy insects, 22 and 86. 

Fig Trees against fences or on trellises will require at- 
tention; train up as many young shoots as will be required 
for bearers next year, and if the leaves are thick, take some 
off, with a view to expose the fruit to the influence of the 
sun, which is essential to its ripening with good flavour, 62. 
Toward the end of this month is the proper season for 
budding the Nectarine, Peach, Plum, and other species of 
stone fruit. The Peach stock is often budded when only a 
year old, but the Plum stock is generally kept in the nursery 
two or three years 25. 

Apple and Pear stocks may be budded when two or three 
years old, but those fruits are generally propagated by graft- 
ing early in the spring. 

A judicious pruning of Peach, Nectarine, and other kinds 
of young trees is necessary at this season. To prevent the 
long, straggling growth of limbs which are frequently bare 
of shoots for some distance from the body of the tree, such 
hmbs should be shortened, which will cause the production 
of lateral shoots. An annual summer pruning is essential to 
the well being of a tree, as by shortening the wood of the 
preceding year's growth, a symmetrical tree containing a 
good supply of bearing wood may be formed. By this treat- 
ment the longevity of a tree will be promoted, provided the 
work IS done with judgment and care, so as not to render 
the tree impervious to the influence of the sun and air ; for, 
be it remembered, that the head of a tree must always be 
kept moderately open, for the purposes of giving the fruit 
the best possible chance of ripening perfectly, 21, 34 and 48. 



158 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 



AUGUST. 



The Peach, plump and ripe, brings us excellent fare, 
Let the Nectarine, too, in this eulogy sliare — 
Their flavour how grateful — their juices how fine, 
Tlnequall'd in taste by the fruit of the vine. 

Finish all that remains to be done of summer pruning of 
all trained fruit trees and vines, as in the last two months ; 
destroy all irregular and unnecessary after-shoots, and Iraiu 
iij a requisite supply of well-situated shoots, for bearers next 
year, 48 and 86. 

Examine the fruit trees that were innoculated last month, 
and wherever a bud has failed, insert another upon the 
smooth part of the bark. Budding generally succeeds well 
if done by the middle of this month, 26. 

Keep Raspberry beds clear of all straggling suckers ; tie 
up such shoots as are adapted for next year's bearers to neat 
stakes, and keep the ground clear of weeds, 134. 

Strawberry beds should be kept clear of weeds, and the 
runners may be taken from some kinds to make new planta- 
tions with, 137. 

If dry weather prevail, as is generally the case at this sea- 
son, hoe frequently between such young trees, shrubs, &c., 
in the nursery beds, as are well rooted; and water those 
which were recently transplanted. 

As numerous species of insects are engendered by the 
excessive heat which generally prevails at this season of the 
yeai', efforts should be made to destroy them. By a general 
search every morning and evening, the increase of some 
species may be checked, and by perseverance, they may be 
totally eradicated. See pages from 18 to 21 of the first 
part, and pages 13, 30, 84 and 156 of the third part, for 
directions hcjw to proceed. 

Many of those reptiles that take up their abode in the 
earth may be annoyed by-frequent .sowings of compost over 
the surface of the land. The various kinds of bitter and 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 



acrid substances recommended in the chapter containing 
' Observations on Insects and the Diseases of Fruit Trees,' 
page 13, are not only adapted to the destruction of insects, 
but the use of them in this way, will produce an incalcula- 
ble benefit to the land, and in many cases preclude the 
necessity of using any other manure. 

The ingredients alluded to consist of ashes, charcoal dust, 
plaster of Paris, tobacco dust, lime, salt, soot, pepper, pot- 
ash, saltpetre, snufF, and sulphur. The proportions may bs 
as follows : Of the first four articles, half a bushel of each ; 
of the next three, a peck of each ; and of the last five, say 
one pound of each ; which will make together three bushels 
of compost. 

As all land possesses inorganic matter, which contains 
more or less of the elements comprised in the above reme- 
dies, and as some land contains more of one element than 
another, a judicious choice may be made from the above 
list, with a view to suit all the various kinds of soil ; thus, 
in locations open to sea breezes, which replenish the earth 
with salt, that article may be dispensed with, and another 
substituted ; and on land which is not susceptible of being 
improved by lime, perhaps the salt may be beneficial ; but 
it is presumed that in most cases a compost made of all, or 
as many of the different articles as are attainable, would 
produce a lasting benefit to land in general, by sowing, say 
at the rate of a bushel per acre, once a week, at those sea- 
sons of the year when it will avail most in the destruction 
of reptiles and insects; and as the primary object of using 
the compost is to prevent our fruits from being destroyed, it 
would prove most effectual if sown out of a wagon, from 
which, in passing between the trees, the leaves could be 
dusted. See pages 19, 89 and 104, of the first part. 



160 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 



SEPTEMBER. 



The Peach and the Pear tree have still ample store, 
And the Plum, most inviting, " makes urchins adore ;" 
A bountiful feast is spread over the land, 
For great is the Giver, unsparing His hand. 

Plantations of Strawberries may be made this month, 
either with runners or seedling plants, 137. 

Protect your Grapes and other fruit from wasps and other 
insects ; either decoy them with honey or sugared water, or 
hang nets over the fruit ; some take the trouble of putting 
the bunches into crape or paper bags. 

Grape Vines and espalier trees in general should be 
attended to, as directed in the previous summer months ; 
by depriving them of all useless shoots and suckers, training 
in those branches intended for the next year's bearers, and 
destroying the eggs of insects, curled leaves, &c., 85. 

Stone fruit, which will now be continually ripening, 
should be gathered while in full perfection, and not suffered 
to get over-ripe, so as to lose its peculiar flavour. 

Ground allotted for the planting of fruit trees and vines 
the coming autumn, should be prepared this month, by dig- 
ging, trenching, and manuring, where necessary, 8. 

With a view to conquer the various kinds of insects and 
reptiles, persevere in the use of the remedies recommended 
last month. Gather up all fruit which falls from the trees, 
or turn geese enough into the orchard to eat it up, by 
which means the reptiles and their food are devouT'ed at 
once. Hogs are the best scavengers, but they are too apt 
to do injury by rooting; they may, however, be let into the 
orchard a few hours each day, and watched, 13 and 124. 

Besides the ingredients already recommended, there are 
others which may be used in various ways. Some may be 
dissolved in a hogshead allotted for the purpose, which on. 
being kept filled with water, makes a solution well calculated 
to sprinkle on the leaves of trees, by means of a syringe or 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 161 

a portable garden engine. Others may be prepared of the 
consistency of paint, and applied to the body and limbs of 
trees with a brush ; and some may be made into a compo- 
sition, and used as an ointment at the lime of pruning. The 
articles alluded to are beeswax, burdock leaves, cow dung, 
decoctions of elder, lamp-black, ley, soap-suds, soft-soap, 
tar, tallow, turpentine, urine, vinegar, walnut leaves, and 
whale oil soap, to which may be added such of the dry ma- 
terials in our previous list as are dissoluble. See page 18 
of the first part, and page 30 of the third part. 

If any of my readers, from the prevailing prejudices 
alluded to in page 113, should feel disposed to abandon or 
root up any of the fruit trees which have been nurtured and 
esteemed by their forefathers, they are recommended before 
doing so to apply some of the preceding remedies, and also 
to follow the advice given in chapter the 13th and verse the 
8th of St. Luke's Gospel, in reference to the barren fig tree, 
namely, "dig about it, and dung it." If after this, it should 
be necessary to " cut it down," get some scions of the same 
varieties from vigorous and healthy trees, and in-giaft them 
on stocks, carefully raised, by which means the old fruits 
will have the same chance as the new varieties ; but it w^ill 
be generally admitted that a new broom sweeps clean, and 
that old things in general are too apt to be neglected. I 
would here avail myself of the opportunity of remarking, that 
so strong is the propensity of some persons to adopt novel- 
ties, that they often abandon some of the best productions 
of the garden in order to find room for other plants, merely 
because they are new, and which they cultivate with pecu- 
liar care ; whereas, if the same attention was bestowed on 
the old inmates of their garden, they would prove the most 
worthy of being cultivated and perpetuated. 



162 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 



OCTOBER. 



Oh Bacchus ! thy Grapes now in bunches hang down ; 
Some press them too freely their " sorrows to drown ;" 
Let " Temperance in all things " be ever our guide — 
No evil can flow from the generous tide ! 

Prepare the ground for planting all kinds of hardy fruit 
trees this month, by digging, trenching, and manuring, 8. 

Gather such varieties of Apples and Pears as are in full 
growth, both of autumn-eating and winter-keeping kinds ; 
do it on dry days ; let the keeping sorts lay in heaps, to dis- 
charge their redundant moisture ; after which convey them 
to a room adapted for preserving them through the winter ; 
lay each kind separate, and cover them up with dry straw, 
a foot or more in thickness, accoiding to the warmness of 
the room, which will preserve them in good order. 

Prune Currant and Gooseberry bushes ; make new plan- 
tations, and plant cuttings from these shrubs, prepared as 
directed in pages 59 and 70. 

Plant the stones of Cherry, Peach. Plum, &c., in drills 
about two inches deep, for the purpose of raising stocks and 
for new varieties ; and in temperate climates, kernels of 
Apple, Pear, Quince, &c., may be sown in drills about an 
inch deep for the same purpose. Plant, also, cuttings of 
hardy trees, suckers of Filberts, &c., 38 and 62. 

Strawberry beds which were planted last month should 
be kept free from weeds, and if dry weather prevails, they 
should be occasionally watered, 136. 

Plantings of hardy trees may be commenced toward the 
end of this month, or soon after the leaves show indications 
of decay, whether fallen or not, 10. 

Toward the end of this month, or early in the next, all 
the tender shrubs and vines must be protected, by laying 
them down and covering them with earth, or by entwining 
straw or matting around them, 63, 80 and 135. 

In gathering grapes for the dessert be careful not to bruise 
them or disturb the vine ; to avoid which cut off each bunch 
with a pair of small scissors. 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 163 

NOVEMBER. 

And now we've arrived near the close of the year> 
Winter Apples and Cranberries bring up the rear; 
All are good of their kind, and we freely declare, 
Not one of the Fruits we would willingly spare. 

Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Chestnut, Mulberry, Quince, 
Walnut, and other hardy fruit trees may now be planted ; 
use caution not to injure them in taking up or removing 
them; let holes be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient 
to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient 
depth to allow of some good rich compost or pulverized earth 
to be thrown in before the trees are planted. See pages 9, 
34, 103 and 125, and read the article headed ' Observations 
on the Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery,' page 32. 

Finish gathering late varieties of Apples, Pears, Grapes, 
&c.; do it in dry weather, and stow them away out of the 
reach of frost, as recommended last month. 

Cranberry, Currant, Filbert, Gooseberry, and Raspberry 
shrubs may be planted this month ; at the same time cut 
out all crowded branches, superfluous suckers, worn-out 
beai'ers, and decayed wood, 58, 60, Q5, 70 and 134. 

Strawberry beds made in August and September, as well 
as those of greater age, may be covered up with leaves, 
light manure, salt hay, or other litter. 

Protect the beds where fruit seeds and cuttings were 
planted last month, by a covering of light manure, compost, 
or leaves of trees. 

Winter pruning may be performed this month on some 
species of hardy trees, shrubs, vines, &c., and continued at 
all opportunities throughout the next month, 23. 

Fig Trees, Tender Grape Vines, as well as the Antwerp 
and other half-hardy Raspberry Shrubs, must be protected 
from the effects of frost, which is done by bending them 
down to the ground and covering them with earth five or 
six inches, which should be sloped so as to carry off the rain. 
Some of the trained Vines and Fig Trees may be protected 
with wickers of straw or matting, 63, 80 and 135. 



164 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

DECEMBER. 

Let sober Reflection, the Tiller employ, 
The sound seeds of Virtue will spring to his joy ; 
To the Ruler of season's, let gratitude's voice, 
In His love and His wisdom for ever rejoice. 

If any of the work recommended to be done in the last 
month was not accomplished, let it be done with all possible 
despatch this month, as we know not what a day may bring 
forth. 

Protect the stems of newly-planted trees. Cover with 
litter the roots of Grape Vines and Figs against walls, and 
cover the branches with mats, &c. In temperate climates 
prune Apple, Pear, Quince, and other hardy fruit trees ; cut 
out rotten and decaying branches, 23 and 63. 

To destroy insects on the fruit trees, and prevent them 
from creeping up and breeding on them, do as follows : — 

Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp hook- 
like iron made for the purpose ; with these scrape clean off 
all the moss and outside rough bark, and with the knife pick 
out or cut away the cankered parts of the bark and wood, in 
such a slanting manner that water cannot lodge in the sides 
of the stem of the trees. Having cleared the trees in this 
way, make up a mixture of lime, soot, and sulphur; put 
these ingredients into a pot or tub, pour boiling water upon 
them, and with a stick stir and mix them well together. 
When this strong mixture becomes cold, and about the 
thickness of white-wash, take a brush, dip it in the mixture, 
and apply it to the stems and large branches of the trees» 
dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the bark. 

The pruning of hardy fruit trees and hardy shrubs may 
be performed at all favourable opportunities dirough the 
winter, 21 to 24. 

For farther information on the winter management of 
Fruit Trees, the reader is referred to the articles commenc- 
ing pages 7, 13, 21, 30 and 32. 



165 



TO THE PEOPLE 

OF THE 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 

FELLOW-CITIZENS : 

An application having been made to your Representatives in Congress to 
vote a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States, 

OR ABOUT A MILLION DOLLARS OF YOUR RESOURCES, tO the prOmOtiOH of an 

improved system of " Terra-culture,'^ as described in Senate, Document 
No. 23, of the third session of the 25th Congress, I hereby direct your 
attention to a few extracts taken from the applicant's preamble ; copies of 
which were forwarded to each member of the 26th Congress, in session, 
November 30, 1839, by Russell Comstock- 

From the Poughkeepsie Eagle, of January 25, 1840. 

PRESERVATION OF FRUIT TREES, PLANTS, &a 
GREAT DISCOVERY. 
•' To the Hon. Perry Smith, Chairman of the United States Senate Com- 
mittee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress. " With the consent and by 
the advice on the 23d inst, of the chairman of the United States Senate 
Committee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress, I forward to each member 
of the 26th Congress the accompanying document dated the 14th inst.; the 
object is to show you some of the proof that a discovery of vital importance 
to civilized man has been made, which in several letters fronr-. diflFerent 
members of the present and last Congress is valued at hundreds of mil- 
lions OF days' labour, and worth more than all the discove- 
ries OF THE PRESENT AGE COMBINED — THE APPLICATION OF STEAK 
NOT EXCEPTED. 

" For what purpose would all the owners of the public lands more freely 
or gratefully consent to give one hundreth part of those lands, or the pro- 
ceeds thereof! Would they not be grateful to those members of Congress, 
who assist in giving the owners of the public domain the desired informar 
tion, and reverence them as benefactors of human kind. 

"For the honour of the Republic, for the honour of the age, and for the 
interest and comfort of the living, as well as the unborn, let not that disco- 
very which may cause two seeds to ripen where one now does, wliich pre- 
vents the premature death of all cultivated trees, which has been searched 
for in vain during the history of all civilized society, die with the discoverer 
for want of the action of the United States Congress." 

Our patriotic discoverer " claims the following five discoveries as Ms, 
besides other discoveries which are stated in his memorial to the 25th Coii- 
^ress : 



166 

Ist " That various diseases, universally supposed to be destructive to 
plants are only symptoms that a particular error in cultivation has been 
committed ; and that many other injurious eflFects have been produced by 
the same error, v^hich are attributed to other causes. 

2d. " That the error is univehsai.ly committed, to a greater or less 
extent, throughout the States, and that he has seen an excess of it where- 
QTer he has been, which is in the Atlantic States, from Georgia to Massa- 
chusetts, inclusive. 

3d. "That the Peach and Nectarine are more easily injured by the 
error than most other Fruit trees, and the cmise of their being more easily 
injured by it ; and that this error causes them to be barren, or short-lived. 

4th. " That the application of two known laws in nature demonstrate 
the reality of his discovery and its application to the whole vegetable king- 
dom ; and that by them, his discovery, (if publicly known,) must be per- 
petuated, and his practice more easily introduced : and that by these two 
laws the occasional success of common remedies is explained. 

5th. " That the said error is the obstacle which has discouraged experi- 
menters, and lamentably retarded improvements in the scienee and practice 
of agriculture ; and that he has discovered facts and made himself acquainted 
with knowledge sufficient to reduce them to practice." 

We are farther informed, " that it is neither climate, nor soil, nor insects, 
nor worms, that are the cause of many of the disastrous effects that have 
been attributed to them, but that those efifects are produced by error in cul- 
tivation, which diseases the smallest plant or largest tree." 

Our modest and patriotic felluw-citizen admits, in the course of his 
preamble, " that the practical part of his discovery is so extremely simple 
and economical, that it costs no more to prevent the diseases than it does 
to produce them ; and that it is so different from the established theories 
and habits of the people, that unless a large amount be appro- 
priated, many will be unwilling to try it, and therefore the public good 
seems to require that a large amount should be appropriated." He more- 
over asserts, that " there are two known laws in nature, by which the reality 
of his discovery, and its application to the whole vegetable kingdom, are 
demonstrable in less than thirty words." 

That this invaluable secret, whatever it may be, is not strictly speaking 
a new discovery, is demonstrable by numerous living witnesses which have 
inhabited the fields of the old world for over a thousand years ; and our 
discoverer freely admits, and in very emphatic language, that there are 
thousands of trees in our own country on which, what he terms '' the com- 
mon error " has never been committed ; and also, that several of the fifteen 
gentlemen to whom he communicated his secret, "confidently for ejier," have 
some such trees on their own domains. 

Hear him — " The Senator from Missouri, (Mr. Linn,) said, that the most 
flourishing and healthy Peach tree in his possession had never had what I 
call the common error in cultivation committed upon it." 

" The Senator from Pennsylvania, (Mr. McKean,) said, that he had long 
supposed that what I call the common error, was an error, but that he had 
no idea of such extensive evils arising from it." 

"The Senator from Maryland, (Mr, Spence,) said, that in his district it 
was a universal custom to commit what I call the common error in cultiva- 
tion, on the fruit trees, and that it was common to have no Plums peirfect 



167 

and free from worms, excepting on a few of his, on which the error 
had not been committed for twenty years, if ever ; and those few (four) 
continued to bear abundantly annually ; that he had no recoiled ion of ever 
seeing an imperfect wormy Plum on either of these four trees, but that he 
had never supposed that to have been the cause of their perfection." 

The Senator from South Carolina, (Mr. Calhoun,) to whom I am indebted 
for pointing out one symptom of the error, and for a valuable suggestion iii 
the culture of plants, said, "while examining the defective trees around the 
Capitol, that the principle when exhibited was very plain and simple, that 
it was philosophical, and in his opmion it could not be neglected without 
injury to the health and growth of trees and plants, and deserving of pub- 
lic patronage." 

"The Vice President of the United States, (Mr. Johnson,) said, that my 
discovery was perfectly consistent with the laws of nature ; and (when 
observing a few trees near the Capitol, which had been injured by the error, 
and were recovering,) farther remarked, that my theory was essentially cor- 
rect and obvious to the most superficial observer." 

" The member from New-York, (Mr. Jackson,) said, that he had reared 
an orchard on which he had carefully avoided an excess of what I call the 
common error, and that it had been admired as the most flourishing and 
fruitful orchard in the neighbourhood ; and that he had recently seen a field 
of Indian corn, which yielded more than one hundred bushels of shelled 
grain to the acre, in which an excess of the error had been avoided, while 
the success was attributed to quite a dififerent cause." 

From the preceding exiracts, it is evident that this inestimable treasure 
lays near the surface ; and from the disclosure having been communicated 
to rational and intelligent minds, it is preposterous to expect that those 
gentleman can, in the pursuit of their rural avocations, act directly con- 
trary to knowledge and sound judgment ; they must, therefore necessarily 
and unavoidably communicate the secret by their example, which will 
eventually disseminate in proportion as mankind take an interest in the 
merits of the alleged discovery. 

But lest the full benefits of this invaluable remedy should be withheld 
from the community for want of the action of the United States Congress, 
I have submitted an exposition of my views of the particular points 
adverted to in the preamble, which may be found under the heads, Necta- 
rine, Peach, and Plum, pages 91, 98 and 124 of the third part of the present 
edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant ; and I would furthermore 
remind my readers that the directions heretofore given in this and previous 
editions of the work are in strict accordance with the same doctrine ; and 
that although the error alluded to is admitted to have been very generally 
committed, I am not aware that any writer has ever taught or encouraged 
the error, either direct or indirect ; I confess, however, that I have been 
induced to expatiate on this malpractice in horticulture from the subject 
having elicited the grave consideration of enlightened legislators of these 
United States. 

And lest these my voluntary disclosures should prove to have no bearing 
on the alleged dfscovery, I would prepare the public mind for its reception 
by an exhortatioa to temperance and moderation, as the oiily safe 
course that can be considered applicable to the cultivation cf all the varirA 
species of plants, which comprise " the whole vegetable kingdom." iii 



168 

arlicles page 2G of the first part, and pages 16, 28 and 97 of the second 
part, I have shown that the various species of plants which occupy our 
greenhouses, gardens, and fields, require each their peculiar aliment — they 
having been collected from all the diversified regions, climates, and soils 
through earth's remotest bounJs ; they consequently comprise natives of 
mountains and rocks, as well as of plains, valleys, and water courses. The 
most essential aliment for natives of warm climates and dry soils being 
HEAT, artificial means are used in cool seasons, and unpropitious climates 
to produce it. Natives of temperate climates require salubrious air, hence 
they are cultivated to the greatest perfection in our Northern States in 
spring and autumn ; and in our Southern States in the winter; seepage 
147 of the first part ; and natives of humid climates, as also amphibious 
plants in general, require a more than ordinary share of moisture, and 
grow best in wet soil; but these three elements collectively constitute 
the food of plants in general, and should be judiciously imparted to the 
various species, in due proportions, according to circumstances. See pages 
49, 64 and 67 of the first part, for a more concise view of this subject. I 
have also shown that the roots of various species of plants require each 
their peculiar aliment, which is not to be found in all descriptions of land; 
this is demonstrated by roots of trees being frequently discovered spreading 
beyond their ordinary bounds in quest of salutary food. 

Although it has been admitted that excessive deep planting of trees and 
plants is injurious, and in many cases fatal to their very existence, it does 
not follow that aU annuals and biennials are injured by the same means ; 
on the contrary, the earthing up of particular species of plants in a late 
stage of growth is calculated to promote early maturity, which constitutes 
the most essential art in gardening for the market ; because the earliest 
crops are always the most profitable. It is moreover a necessary practice 
in climates where the seasons for gardening are short — as without such 
practice, many kinds of vegetables could not possibly be matured in due 
season for gathering before winter. 

I would here take the opportunity of proving this last position, by 
reminding the reader that the effects of deep planting, the Peach tree for 
instance, is discoverable soon after the error is committed, by its fruit ripen- 
ing prematurely, and this is often the case for a year or two prior to iU) 
final decease, and should operate as a salutary lesson against planting 
perejinial plants and trees too deep. 

In conclusion of this article, which is intended as an appendage to my 
works on gardening, I would urge gardeners and cultivators to consult the 
operations of nature in all their rural pursuits ; and with a view to aid 
them, I subjoin the following rules, which are farther illustrated under the 
diflFerent heads : 

1. In transplantiug fruit trees, let the collar, or that part from which 
emanate the main roots, be near the surface. A medium sized tree may be 
planted an inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed ; and the largest 
should not exceeJ two or three inches. See pages 93, 101 and 125 of the 
third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant. 

2. In the cultivation of such plants as are transplanted.'or grown in hills 
or clusters, as Indian Corn, &c., keep the earth loose but level around them 
in their early stages of growth, by frequent hoeing, ploughing, or culti- 



169 

vating ; and to promote early maturity, throw a moderate portion of 
earth about the roots and stems at the iast or final dressing. 

3. In the sowing of seed, remember that in unity there is strength, 
and that from the germinative parts of a seed being weak and diminutive, 
it cannot be expected to perforate through the soil, solitary and alone. To 
insure a fair chance plant your seed moderately thick, and thm out the 
surplus plants while young. In planting seed in drills, which is the most 
eligible plan, the size of the seed and strength of its germ should be consi- 
dered ; large seed, producing vigorous roots, require deeper planting than 
diminutive seed, producing delicate roots and slender stalks. 

4. In the choice of compost for exotic or greenhouse plants, imitate the 
native soil of each peculiar species as nearly as possible, by a judicious 
mixture of maiden earth, loam, sand, leaf, swamp, and rock mould, decom- 
posed manures, and such other composts as are recommended under the 
different heads. Remember, that although strong manure is essential to 
the growth of some plants, it is poisonous to others. Pursue, then, a 
MEDIUM COURSE. From your soil not being too stiff or two light, too rich 
or too poor, too cool or too warm, too close or too porous, if not positively 
salutary and congenial to all, it must render the situation of each endura- 
ble. I again repeat, that temperance in thQ use of aliment, is as essential 
to the welfare of the vegetable family as it is to the health, happiness, and 

longevity of mankind. ^ 

^ ' T. BRIDGEMAN. 

New-York, March 4, 1840. 

85- Since this address has been in press, I have seen another article in 
the Poiighkeepsie Eagle, dated February 29, 1840, wherein our inodest 
and patriotic discoverer gratuitously pronounces his knowledge as superior 
to that of " all Botanical and Agricultural kmnvn writers /" As 1 have 
anticipated the merits of this second valuable discovery in my books, I have 
nothing more to say than to remind the reader that this uncalled for attack 
on the'brethren of my fraternity, fully justifies not merely the publication, 
but the most general circulation of these my voluntary disclosures. 



RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. 
This summary view of estimates is annexed, in order to aid the Seeds- 
man and Gardener in making out a bill of seed for the purpose of planting 
any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the 
Vegetable Department of the Young Gardener's Assistant, to which the 

reader is referred for a more concise view of the subject. 

Page. 

Artichoke ; an ounce of seed will produce 600 plants, - - 31 

Asparagus; one ounce will be sufficient for 1000 plants - - 35 
Beans, English Dwarf; one quart of seed will be required for every 

sixty feet of row, ^^ 

Beans, Kidney Dwarf ; one quart of seed will plant from 350 to 400 

biUs, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, 42 



170 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. 

Tape. 
Beans Pole, or Running ; one quart of Linma, or large running Beans 

will plant about 300 hills, or 250 feet of row, - - - - 43 

Beet ; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole, - - 45 

Borecole, or Kale , an ounce will produce 4000 plants, - - 46 

Broccoli ; one ounce is sufficient for 4000 plants, - - - - 50 

Cauliflower ; an ounce of this seed will produce 4000 plants, - 53 

Cabbage ; one ounce will produce 4000 plants, - ... 55 

Cardoon Artichoke ; an ounce will produce 600 plants, - - 63 

Carrot ; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, - - - 59 

Celery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, - - - 60 
Corn Salad, or Fetticus ; one ounce of seed will sow about two poles 
of ground, ------..--63 

Cucumber; one ounce of seed is sufficient for 200 hills, . • 65 

Egg Plant ; an ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 67 

Endive, or Succory ; an ounce will yield 5000 plants, - - - 68 

Leek; one ounce of seed may be allotted for 3000 plants, - - 71 

Lettuce; an ounce will produce, say 10,000 plants, - - . 73 

Melon ; one ounce of seed will produce from 120 to 150 hills, - 74 

Melon, Water; an ounce will, plant from 40 to 50 hills, - - 75 

Onion ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, - - 78 

Parsley ; two ounces may be allowed for three perches, - . 80 

Parsnip ; two ounces may be allotted for three perches, - - 81 

Pepper ; one ounce of seed will produce 3000 plants, - - - 82 

Peas ; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row, - - 84 

Potatoes ; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be allotted for an acre, 85 
Potatoes, Sweet ; half a peck of seed, properly managed, will produce 

16 bushels, --86 

Pumpkin ; one quart of field Pumpkin will plant from 500 to 600 

hills, and one ounce of the finest kinds will plant from 50 to 80 hills, 87 
Radish ; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown broad- 
cast, and about half the quantity if sown in dtills, - - - 89 
Salsify ; two ounces of this seed will plant three perches, - - 93 
Shallots ; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty poles, - - - 9S 
Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five perches of 

land. If broadcast, it will require double the quantity, - - 99 
Squash ; an ounce of seed will plant from 50 to 100 hills, according 

to sorts and size, - - - - • - - - 100 

Tomato ; one ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 101 

Turnip ; one pound of seed is suflficient for an acre of land, - 105 

QUANTITY OF GRASS SEED SUITABLE TO THE ACRE. 



Clover, sown alone, - - 12 pounds. 
Timothy, --.-.- l peck. 
Herds Grass, ----- 1 bushel. 



Orchard Grass, - - - - 2 bushels. 

Rye Grass, ------ 2 bushels. 

Lucerne, -.-.-..8 pounds. 



For a pasture for grazing, the following mixtures of seed would be found 
excellent, viz : 6 pounds of clover seed, 1 peck of herds grass, and half a 
bushel of Orchard grass seed— or 6 pounds clover, half a bushel of rye 
grass, and half a bushel of tall meadow oat seed. 



171 



COMMENDATORY NOTICES. 



"The first edition of "The Young Gardener's Assistant" has been 
favourably noticed in France : — " One of the leading articles of the Annates 
de C Institute Royal Horticole de Fromont, is a long notice of " The Young 
Gardener's Assistant," by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this city. The 
editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the little work in very 
commendable terms." — New York Farmer. 

Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany, 
&c., published by Hovey & Co., Boston : 
" The work is written in plain language, easily to be understood by the 
young beginner in gardening, who will find it a great help ; and its value, 
even to the experienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character. 
It is adapted to oue climate, and unlike compilations from English 
works, the novice is not led into disappointment by following the rules 
there laid down, as he generally is, when following the advice of the latter. 
We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, it is wokth all otheks of* 

A SIMILAR CHARACTER THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUN- 
TRY ; and its cheapness should place it in the hands of all new beginners." 

" No work ever published has been so studiously written to give plain 
useful information. By being arranged in the form of a catalogue, you 
can turn in a moment to any name you desire, where the time of sowing, 
depth, soil, after treatment, &c. &c., is clearly defined. The Calendarial 
Index, giving a summary of work for every month, is itself worth the whole 
price of the book, and must have cost the author much research and labor- 
ious thought. Mr. Bridgeman is not a theorist, but is in the daily practice 
of what he writes, and of course well qualified to direct ail beginners in the 
profitable and delightful employment of cultivating a garden, ' a profession 
and an employment for which no man is too high or too low.' " — Genessee 
Farmer. 

" It will, we are persuaded, be found, what the writer intends it shall be, 
' generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the manage- 
ment of their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener himself, in the 
Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicable to our climate — an 
advantage of no little moment." — American. 

"Among the plants for the cultivation of which ' The Young Gardener's 
Assistant ' contains directions, are a number of culinary vegetables not 
generally introduced in the United States. The introduction and success- 
ful cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resources of our 
country. We recently saw, for instance, in Mr. Bridgeman's garden, seve- 
ral varieties of Broad Beans, Vicia faba, in a most vigorous and thrifty 
growth. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that was not suitable so 
early in the season for any other vegetable. They put forth a beautiful 
blossom, and would serve as an ornament for the flower garden."— New 
York Farmer. 



172 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. 

"Bridgeman's Gardener's Assistant. — The fourth edition of this* 
nseful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by ther 
addition of several matters not contained in either of the former editions. 
Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the gardener's 
memory." — Evening Post. 

"No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening ever published in this 
country has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale, Mr. 
Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writes from his 
own e.Tperience." — Daily Express. 

"That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this most 
innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of applause and 
patronage ; and such we consider 'The Young Gardener's Assistant.' " — 
Miming Herald. 

" The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged in 
Agriculture, ' far from the busy haunts of men,' and to the disciples of 
Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seedsman, 
and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic." — Old Countryman, 
"From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Bridgeman's book, we 
should suppose that he paid but little attention to the mere on dits or dic- 
tums of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment pointed 
out ; and in this particular, we value his book — leading the young gardener 
to depend more on his own judgment than on the rules of custom." 
American Farmer. 

"All those who are desirous of a work on the subject of Gardening, and 
one which will convey the best information on the management of Hot- 
beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent Vegetables, 
Pruning, Grafting and Budding Fruit Trees, Training the Vine, Preserving 
the Fruit from Mildew, &c., should procure this. No work on the subject 
ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale, or 
decided public approbation, as this valuable compendium. Mr. Bridgeman 
fully understands the subject on which he treats. The very rapid sale of 
the eight former editions is quite a sufficient recommendation." — G. C. 
Tfwrburn, in the Evening Star. 

" We can assure gardeners and farmers that they will in times and ways 
almost without number, be amply compensated by purchasing the book. 
Mr. Bridgeman bestows great labour on liis productions of the pen, not 
only as to practical matter of fact, but to the various excellences of style 
particularly to clearness, and the avoiding a redundancy of words. The 
amount of useful information in the book constitutes its value; and all this 
information is adapted to this country, and its climate and its sail." — 
American Gardener^ s Magazine. 

" From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give ' The 
Young Gardener's Assistant,' we should judge that it embraces a greater 
amount of practical information, applicable to our climate, than can be 
found in any similar work. The list of fruit trees has been selected from 
the best authorities, both foreign and American, and is suflficiently exten- 
sive for any cultivator in this country." — Neioarlt Daily Advertiser, 



COMMENDATORY NOTICES. 173 

"The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, and his 
book is an excellent manual and guide for the beginner, whether old or 
young, in horticultural pursuits." — Gazette. 

" From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate heads, 
and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, it must be an invalua- 
ble manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of 
their own gardens. — Albany Argus. 

Extract of a letter from Alex'r Walsh, Esq., Lansinburg: 

Dear Sir : — You will see by the next month's New-York Farmer, if you 
have not already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of the 
Young Gardener's Assistant have been given as premiums, by the State 
Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B- Slingerland and myself were on the com- 
mittee for awarding premiums, and thought your work was desprving 
encouragement ; and that even in this small way we might be of service in 
bringing it before the public as worthy of being given as premiums."* 

"Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject on 
which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of 
twenty years' experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted in an 
unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than those 
in more costly and expensive works." — Courier <^ Enquirer. 

"We have undoubted authority for pronouncing this work as worth all 
others of a similar character that have ever been published in this country, 
from its adaptation to all the climates in the United States."— JV". Y. Sun. 

" That this is a useful work is evident from the number of editions 
through which it has passed. There is scarcely any employment in life 
more pleasing than the cultivation of a Garden with Fruits and Flowers. 
Those who have the opportunity to indulge themselves in this gratification, 
we have no doubt will derive much assistance from this publication." — N. 
Y. Tribune. 

" Every one that cultivates a garden should possess the work, as it is a 
complete dictionary for young beginners in the delightful field of Horticul- 
ture." — Working Mail's Advocnte. 

"No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with 
half as extensive a sale or decided approbation, as this valuable compen- 
dium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands, from practical experience, the 
subject on which he treats. The Calendarial Index arranges the work for 
every month, and refers to the various parts of the book how to proceed. 
This of itself is worth the price of the whole work, and cost the author 
immense labour. The rapid sale of the former editions, together with the 
commendation of every Agricultural and HorticuhuralJournal in America, 
and several in England, is quite sufficient recommendation. The present 
edition both explains and fully makes known what was thought to be a 
great discovery (as great as steam) on the preservation of Fruit Trees, 
Plants, &c., and which, to make known to the people of the^e United 
States, an application was made to the 2oth Congress to vote the supposed 

* The American Instilute has also awaided several copies cf this work as premiums fot 

superior specimens of garden products 



174 COMMENDATORY NOTICES, 

author of the discovery a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the 
United States — or about a million of dollars. Mr. Bridgeman has clearly 
proved this discovery from his long observation of the course of nature and 
treatment of Trees and Plants, and which only occupies some four or five 
pages of the work." — N- Y. Commercial, by G. C. Tliorburn. 



•'The Florist's Guide. — A delightfullittlebook, which we advise every 
body to purchase — at least every body that has the least liking for the 
pleasing occupation on which it treats." — Courier 4" Enquirer. 

"The Florist's Guide," like its companion, " The Young Gardener's As- 
sistant," is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist may consult 
to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of various spe- 
cies; the names and characters of each being alphabetically arranged, makes 
it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superintend the 
management of their own gardens." — Newark Daily Advertiser. 

" This is one of the best works on the subject ever published in any 
country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Annual, 
Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes, Herbaceous 
and Shrubby, Bulbous. Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double 
Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c. &c. 

"A work of the above kind has been long wanted; hitherto, it required 
an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any kind of readable 
directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in rooms, &c., 
which, when "procured, were so full of botanical foppery, that plain, honest 
people, after wading through some three or four hundred pages, were as 
wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, as when they com- 
menced their book. The present little work obviates all these difficulties. 
The author is well known as one of our practical gardeners, and it may be 
truly said he has rendered the ladies in particular (for whom the work was 
projected) an essential service ; the directions for tlie care of the Camellia 
Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual 
Flower Seed, fee, are alone worth double the price of the book ; so is the 
Calendarial Index, which, by the untiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman, is 
made to include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than 
is to be found in some ponderous octavos on the same subject." — G- C- 
Thorium, from tke N. Y. Commercial. 

" The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious, 
and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information, unen- 
cumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work. We very 
cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful book."^ 
Gardener's Magazine. 



The Florist's Guide has also been very favourably noticed by the editors 
of many other very respectable periodicals, as a work eminently calculated 
to promote a love for the cultivation and correct management of flowers — 
the study of which, remarks one of these writers, " refines the taste, and 
imparts just and ennobling views of the wise provisions of nature." 



175 



LINES 

SUGGESTED BY THE AWARD OF A GOLD MEDAL TO THE AUTHOR 
OF ' THE YOUNG gardener's ASSISTANT,' AT THE FOURTEENTH 
ANNUAL FAIR OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE, 1841, FOR ITS 
GREAT PRACTICAL UTILITY. 



BY D. MITCHELL. 



As Valok's meed, and Honor's brightest test, 
I've seen a Medal on a Warrior's breast ; 
But to my mind it brought sad scenes to view— 
The sweeping carnage of red Waterloo — 
The orphan's tear — the widow's drooping head. 
For slaughter'd heroes on false glory's bed— 
The earth made desolate, its fruits despoil'd, 
By mad Ambition, fearless and unfoil'd ! 
Not so the Token thou hast gained from Peace, 
Thou lov'st to see fair Nature's wide increase, 
And the " Young Gard'ner," in thy fertile book, 
Finds an " Assistant " not to be mistook ! 
Thine is the pleasing art to cultivate, 
Fill Plenty's horn, and better man's estate ; 
Thine is the wish the Cotter's life to mend. 
And teach him that a garden is his friend : 
That Virtue smiles — sheds blessings on his head. 
And makes him happy in his humble shed, 
Who tends his " litlle patch " in well spent hours, 
Amid his kitchen treasures and his flowers; 
That Vice ne'er mars a lovely scene like this — 
The consummation of the poor man's bliss ! 
Health, my firm friend, long life and health to thee, 
Health to the scions from the parent tree ; 
Well may thy trophy be a source of pride. 
May they preserve it, whatsoe'r betide : 
'Tis a memento for imparting good, 
More nobly won than that for shedding blood ! 



AlViERICAl^ STA1\IDARD HORTICULTURAL BOOKS. 



The Young Gardener's Assistant, containing 

Cata]f)gues of Garden and Flower Seed, with Practical 
Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Culi- 
nary Vegetables and Flowers ; also, directions for culti- 
vating Fruit Trees, Shrubs, and Vines, including the 
Fig, the Cranberry, and the Grape Vine. To which is 
added a Calendar to each part, showing the work ne- 
cessary to be done in the various departments of Gar- 
dening each month of the year. The whole adapted to 
the climate of the United States. The tenth edition, 
improved, 504 pages octavo. By T. BRIDGEMAN, 
Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist : New- York. 



95° As each part of the above Work makes a complete volume, the 
Ninth Edition has been published in three separate books, with a view 
to accommodate the different description of cultivators. They are 
entitled as follows : — 

The Kitchen Gardener's Instrnctor ; which 

contains ample directions for the cultivation of Culinary 
Vegetables and Plerbs throughout the ordinary season ; 
and instructions for Foicitig and Forwarding Vegetables 
in winter and early in the spring. 

The Florist's Guide, contains all the necessa7y 
information for managing a Flower Garden, and for 
cultivating Exotic Plants, either in a Greenhouse, or 
warm room. 

The Fruit Cultivator's Manual, is designed to 

qualify the novice in Fruit Culture for the superintend- 
ence of his own Orchard and Fruit Garden. 

Each of the above Volumes contains 176 pages, 12mo. Price Fifty 
Cents, half bound; Sixty-two Cents, full bound. 



I^' Booksellers and Seedsmen supplied on liberal 
terms, by the Author, Broadway, corner of Eighteenth 
Street, New-York. 




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